One of the most popular questions I get is “What can my truck actually tow?” It ranks just below my refrigerator isn’t cooling, my batteries are dead, my roof air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, and my slide room doesn’t work. OK, so it’s in my top five but I do get it asked quite often!
In the past, we could just look up towing capacity in the Trailer Life towing guide or the truck manufacturer towing guide. As long as we knew the cab configuration, bed length, and engine size, we could get the towing capacity at the tip of our fingers.
Then The Math Changed!
Somewhere around 2010, Toyota came out with the first half-ton truck that had a towing capacity of 10,000 lbs while all the others were at 5-7,000 lbs. My 2002 Silverado had a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs which meant I did not have a very large selection of trailers that I could tow. Truck manufacturers scrambled to reclassify towing capacity using the new math Toyota had developed. My 2002 had a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7,000 lbs and the towing capacity was 5,000 lbs which meant I had a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 12,000 lbs. The new math is taking GCWR and subtracting the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) which is an empty truck and adding a 150 lb driver to determine towing capacity. This shifts payload weight from the tow vehicle to the trailer towing weight. Here is an example; my 2016 has a GVWR of 11,500 lbs and has a dry weight of 5,730 lbs. This means I could theoretically put 5,770 lbs of cargo into this truck which would include any passengers and cargo which is a lot of “stuff” I can bring. So with the new math, we take the 5,730 lbs of dry weight, add a 150 lb driver and it comes to 5,880 lbs, subtract it from the 11,300 lb GVWR and we have 5,620 lbs of extra weight that can be added or shifted to the trailer towing capacity. In the past, you could load your tow truck up to GVWR and then tow the published towing capacity.
What Is The Truth?
It’s hard to wade through all the postings, forums, and blogs when it comes to actual towing capacity, especially with AI and the fact that anyone can write or post anything on the internet without verification or authenticity. What I do know is that I have been working with the RV Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) for the past 25 years and trust them to be the authority when it comes to weights and towing. They have been weighing rigs for over 3 decades and working with tire manufacturers, RV manufacturers, and original equipment manufacturers (OEM) to develop weight information and even convinced the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) to require weight stickers on all units.
There still are towing guides published by Woodall’s, Good Sam, and the truck manufacturers however, they are estimates at best and do not take into account payload, cargo, and passengers. In fact, the towing capacity listed is for a standard truck with a driver of 150 lbs! According to RVSEF you need to know the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of your truck as well as the tongue weight that is on the back axle. Other factors include the GVWR of the truck as well as the GAWR of the rear wheels.
This all means taking the truck and trailer to a CAT Scale and getting it weighed which is not an easy thing to do especially if you are still in the shopping stage. To start with, I went to the RVSEF site that has several towing guides here.
The challenge I had was finding the correct specifications for my truck to look up the information in the various guides. I found the GVWR and GAWR ratings on the data label located on the driver door pillar.
I found the engine size on the label in the engine compartment that stated it was the 5.3L and it is a double door standard bed model. However what I could not find was the axle ratio and the GCWR. I went online and a Chevy source indicated the eight digit of the VIN indicated axle ratio and stated it was the 3.08 axle ratio and had a much lower trailer towing capacity as well as GCWR! To verify, I asked the Executive Director at RVSEF and he stated that most online sources do not take into account all the options and model variations. He stated the true information is found on the options label inside the glove compartment.
Going through all these three digit codes and matching the one to the RVSEF guide I found mine had the 3.42 and according to the owner’s manual, had a trailer towing capacity of 9,200 lbs and a GCWR of 15,000 lbs which I found on line and confirmed in my owner’s manual. Next I needed to weigh both the truck and trailer to make sure I wasn’t overloaded in any of the weight ratings.
Here Are The Numbers That Are Important
GCWR – Gross Combined Weight Rating
The weight of the truck with everyone and everything that will be travel plug the weight of the trailer with all cargo must not exceed the GCWR.
GVWR – Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
The weight of the truck with all passengers and cargo can not exceed the GVWR. Also, the total weight of the trailer loaded with all cargo and water must not exceed the trailer GVWR.
GAWR – Gross Axle Weight Rating
Both axles have a GAWR and must not exceed the poste GAWR for front and rear with all passengers, cargo, and the trailer connected to determine how much weight the tongue of the trailer is applying.
Tongue Weight
Drive off the scale, disconnect the trailer, and weigh the truck or tow vehicle with all passengers and cargo. Subtract this from the original GAWR of the rear axle and this will tell you how much weight is on the hitch which should be somewhere between 10-15% on trailers.
Here were the ratings I found for my truck with a 1996 Salem trailer connected.
Hitched To Trailer
| Axle | GAWR | Actual AWR |
| Front | 5,000 lbs. | 3,300 lbs. |
| Rear | 7,050 lbs. | 3,240 lbs. |
Trailer weight – 4,340 lbs.
Combined weight, truck and trailer – 10,880 lbs.
Unhitched truck
Front – 3,400 lbs.
Rear – 2,580 lbs.
Hitch weight or payload from trailer – 660 lbs.
The scale has three platforms which allows you to put the front axle on the first pad, the drive or rear axle on the second pad, and the trailer on the third which provides individual weights. This confirms that you are not over any of the weight ratings and can safely tow.
I also took the comprehensive RVSEF Matching Truck To Trailer Training Course here.
I would recommend anyone towing a trailer take the course and they are offering a discount for RV Lifestyle and Repair and Coach-Net members by using this code: RVLRTOW24
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
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