Tag Archives: RV Safety

The RV Extension Cord Guide

10 Wednesday Jul 2024

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tips & Tricks

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Most RV campsites out there have a power pedestal not too far from the RV pad. This makes it easy to plug in using only the power cord that comes with your RV. That said, there are times when the power pedestal is set far away from the pad, and in these cases, an RV extension cord might be necessary.  

If you’re in a spot where an RV extension cord is required, there are a few things you should know.  

Choosing an RV Extension Cord

If you need to extend the length of your RV power cord, avoid using a typical household extension cord. These cords cannot handle the amperage an RV requires, will quickly become overheated, and could even melt or catch fire. 

Instead, you will need to purchase an RV extension cord—a cord made specifically for use with an RV. Here’s what you should look for as you shop. 

Amperage 

First, you must make sure you purchase a cord with the correct amperage. If your RV requires 30 amps or 50 amps, buy a corresponding RV extension cord. To determine which amperage you need, take a look at the RV plug. If it has three prongs, it is a 30-amp cord, while four-prong plugs indicate the RV is a 50-amp rig.  

Length 

Choosing an RV extension cord length can be tricky. Obviously, you want a cord that reaches where you need it to, but it is also important that the cord is not overly long.

This is because long cable runs can create dangerous and damaging voltage drops. It goes without saying that this isn’t good, so go as short as you can while still giving yourself enough slack to reach the outlet, and generally avoid extension cords that are more than 50 feet long.  

Durability 

Finally, you will, of course, want to purchase something that will last a long time. Make sure to read reviews before buying an RV extension cord to ensure you get a high-quality product that will last a long time.  

The Best RV Extension Cords

Still not sure what to buy? Our favorite option is the Camco Power Grip cord with a locking end. We love that the end locks into place and that the plug comes with a handle, making it easy to unplug the cord correctly. We’ve also found that these cords hold up well, even when used out in the elements.  

Using an RV Extension Cord

Okay, now that you have an extension cord picked out, it’s time to use it. Here are our top tips for using your RV extension cord safely.  

Use a Surge Protector 

First and foremost, it is important that you always use an RV surge protector when plugging your RV into any power outlet. This applies when using an RV extension cord and when you are not. 

Either way, plug the surge protector into the outlet and then plug the RV power cord or extension cord into the surge protector.  

Don’t Link Cords 

We mentioned the dangerous voltage drops that can occur in long runs above. This becomes especially likely when extension cords are linked. For this reason, we don’t recommend plugging one RV extension cord into the next. 

If you must have a longer extension cord than the one you already own, buy a new, longer one rather than a short one to link to your current cord.  

Avoid Water 

We all know that water and electricity do not mix. Even though RV extension cords are made for outdoor usage, keeping the connection points up off the ground and out of the water is a good idea. 

A small stool can be used to raise the connection and keep it out of puddles in case of rain. If you happen to have extra leveling blocks lying around, they also work well for this purpose.  

Pull at the Plug 

It can be tempting to unplug your RV extension cord by pulling on the cord itself. Don’t. Make sure you pull on the plug head itself. Pulling on the cord can cause internal damage to the wires inside the extension cord, which could actually be dangerous.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV extension cords. Why not invest in an extension today so you’re ready the next time you need one? 

May contain affiliate links.  

About the Author: Chelsea G.

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Tim C. ~ “Patrick answered quickly, ensured we were safe, and immediately started working on options to get us safely on the road again! Incredible Service!”

10 Camping Safety Tips

10 Wednesday Apr 2024

Posted by in RV Safety

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Camping safety is an incredibly important part of RV travel. After all, you certainly wouldn’t want your fun family road trip to remember to turn into a dangerous disaster you’ll never forget. Fortunately, you can easily reduce the risk that something might go wrong by using some basic camping safety tips.

Not sure where to begin? Here are our top tips.

Always Tell Someone Your Plan

First and foremost, it is important that you always communicate your plan with a loved one. Let them know where you plan to go, what you plan to do when you get there, and when you plan to return home. If you don’t return when you say you would, your friend or family member will know something is amiss and can do something about it.

Check the Weather Forecast

Severe weather is especially dangerous when in an RV or out hiking. Make sure you check the weather forecast before you leave home to make sure you won’t be caught in tornado weather, ice and snow, heavy winds, or heavy rain. All of these things have the potential to be devastating, and it’s better to postpone your camping trip or head elsewhere than to take the risk.

Learn First Aid

You never know what might happen while out exploring. While you might have access to doctors and hospitals most of the time, all it takes is one injury out in the middle of nowhere to create a major catastrophe. Prevent this by learning basic first aid so you can take care of most injuries on the spot no matter where you happen to be.

Just be sure you have a first aid kit with you as well so you have the correct tools to use your first aid knowledge!

Have a Way to Communicate

Cell phones are amazing and will allow you to communicate with family and friends and/or contact emergency services if necessary in most places. Unfortunately, there are some areas of the country that are completely devoid of cell service. For this reason, we recommend always carrying a second way to communicate.

Starlink Internet is great for this if you have a generator or battery bank to run it. Satellite phones are also good in emergency situations.

Never Approach Wildlife

Wild animals are…well, wild. You never know what they may do, and even those animals that seem docile and friendly could turn on you. On top of that, when you’re out in nature, you are in their home, not the other way around.

Respect these facts and keep your distance when viewing wildlife. This will help ensure you return home injury-free, and will also help keep the animals safe.

Know How to Make Repairs

If you’ve been RVing for any length of time, you probably know all too well that things are going to break from time to time. When you’re camping in the middle of the city, you have access to all kinds of supplies, mobile techs, and shops that can help.

That said, when you decide to escape into the wilderness, you don’t have such conveniences. Because of this, it is always a good idea to know how things in your RV and vehicle work, and how you might fix them should they break.

Of course, you’ll also need to make sure to have a good basic tool kit to accompany your knowledge.

Carry Roadside Assistance

Last but definitely not least, it is super important that you carry good RV-specific roadside assistance. Coach-Net Roadside Assistance will be there to help you, even if you happen to find yourself on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Knowing this is definitely reassuring as you head out into the great unknown, and you’ll appreciate the service even more if you ever have to use it!

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Lynn B. ~ “Coach-Net was excellent from beginning to end. I highly recommend this service!”

What You Need To Know About Towing Capacity

06 Wednesday Dec 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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One of the most popular questions I get is “What can my truck actually tow?” It ranks just below my refrigerator isn’t cooling, my batteries are dead, my roof air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, and my slide room doesn’t work. OK, so it’s in my top five but I do get it asked quite often!

In the past, we could just look up towing capacity in the Trailer Life towing guide or the truck manufacturer towing guide. As long as we knew the cab configuration, bed length, and engine size, we could get the towing capacity at the tip of our fingers.

Then The Math Changed!

Somewhere around 2010, Toyota came out with the first half-ton truck that had a towing capacity of 10,000 lbs while all the others were at 5-7,000 lbs. My 2002 Silverado had a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs which meant I did not have a very large selection of trailers that I could tow. Truck manufacturers scrambled to reclassify towing capacity using the new math Toyota had developed. My 2002 had a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7,000 lbs and the towing capacity was 5,000 lbs which meant I had a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 12,000 lbs. The new math is taking GCWR and subtracting the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) which is an empty truck and adding a 150 lb driver to determine towing capacity. This shifts payload weight from the tow vehicle to the trailer towing weight. Here is an example; my 2016 has a GVWR of 11,500 lbs and has a dry weight of 5,730 lbs. This means I could theoretically put 5,770 lbs of cargo into this truck which would include any passengers and cargo which is a lot of “stuff” I can bring. So with the new math, we take the 5,730 lbs of dry weight, add a 150 lb driver and it comes to 5,880 lbs, subtract it from the 11,300 lb GVWR and we have 5,620 lbs of extra weight that can be added or shifted to the trailer towing capacity. In the past, you could load your tow truck up to GVWR and then tow the published towing capacity.

What Is The Truth?

It’s hard to wade through all the postings, forums, and blogs when it comes to actual towing capacity, especially with AI and the fact that anyone can write or post anything on the internet without verification or authenticity. What I do know is that I have been working with the RV Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) for the past 25 years and trust them to be the authority when it comes to weights and towing. They have been weighing rigs for over 3 decades and working with tire manufacturers, RV manufacturers, and original equipment manufacturers (OEM) to develop weight information and even convinced the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) to require weight stickers on all units.

There still are towing guides published by Woodall’s, Good Sam, and the truck manufacturers however, they are estimates at best and do not take into account payload, cargo, and passengers. In fact, the towing capacity listed is for a standard truck with a driver of 150 lbs! According to RVSEF you need to know the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of your truck as well as the tongue weight that is on the back axle. Other factors include the GVWR of the truck as well as the GAWR of the rear wheels.

This all means taking the truck and trailer to a CAT Scale and getting it weighed which is not an easy thing to do especially if you are still in the shopping stage. To start with, I went to the RVSEF site that has several towing guides here.

The challenge I had was finding the correct specifications for my truck to look up the information in the various guides. I found the GVWR and GAWR ratings on the data label located on the driver door pillar.

I found the engine size on the label in the engine compartment that stated it was the 5.3L and it is a double door standard bed model. However what I could not find was the axle ratio and the GCWR. I went online and a Chevy source indicated the eight digit of the VIN indicated axle ratio and stated it was the 3.08 axle ratio and had a much lower trailer towing capacity as well as GCWR! To verify, I asked the Executive Director at RVSEF and he stated that most online sources do not take into account all the options and model variations. He stated the true information is found on the options label inside the glove compartment.

Going through all these three digit codes and matching the one to the RVSEF guide I found mine had the 3.42 and according to the owner’s manual, had a trailer towing capacity of 9,200 lbs and a GCWR of 15,000 lbs which I found on line and confirmed in my owner’s manual. Next I needed to weigh both the truck and trailer to make sure I wasn’t overloaded in any of the weight ratings.

Here Are The Numbers That Are Important

GCWR – Gross Combined Weight Rating

The weight of the truck with everyone and everything that will be travel plug the weight of the trailer with all cargo must not exceed the GCWR.

GVWR – Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

The weight of the truck with all passengers and cargo can not exceed the GVWR. Also, the total weight of the trailer loaded with all cargo and water must not exceed the trailer GVWR.

GAWR – Gross Axle Weight Rating

Both axles have a GAWR and must not exceed the poste GAWR for front and rear with all passengers, cargo, and the trailer connected to determine how much weight the tongue of the trailer is applying.

Tongue Weight

Drive off the scale, disconnect the trailer, and weigh the truck or tow vehicle with all passengers and cargo. Subtract this from the original GAWR of the rear axle and this will tell you how much weight is on the hitch which should be somewhere between 10-15% on trailers.

Here were the ratings I found for my truck with a 1996 Salem trailer connected.

Hitched To Trailer

AxleGAWRActual AWR
Front5,000 lbs.3,300 lbs.
Rear7,050 lbs.3,240 lbs.

Trailer weight – 4,340 lbs.
Combined weight, truck and trailer – 10,880 lbs.

Unhitched truck

Front – 3,400 lbs.

Rear – 2,580 lbs.

Hitch weight or payload from trailer – 660 lbs.

The scale has three platforms which allows you to put the front axle on the first pad, the drive or rear axle on the second pad, and the trailer on the third which provides individual weights. This confirms that you are not over any of the weight ratings and can safely tow.

I also took the comprehensive RVSEF Matching Truck To Trailer Training Course here.

I would recommend anyone towing a trailer take the course and they are offering a discount for RV Lifestyle and Repair and Coach-Net members by using this code: RVLRTOW24

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ray M. ~ “We’ve had a service plan with Coach-Net with 2 different RVs and we’re so glad we do.  Twice in less than a month, we’ve called with tire issues.  Both times your representative helped us to get back on the road in a short amount of time.  Thank you from two happy campers.”

Reduce & Remove Mold & Mildew In Your RV

04 Wednesday Oct 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tips & Tricks

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Mold and mildew can form on several RV surfaces such as the roof material, awnings, and exterior sidewalls. It can also be found inside cabinets, around the toilet, and shower stalls. The growth of mold and mildew is primarily influenced by 3 factors: moisture, warmth, and organic materials for them to feed on. It grows by tiny spores that start invisible and typically float through the air land on wet surfaces and then begin to grow and darken.

Here are some common ways mold and mildew can form on the interior of RVs:

High Humidity And Condensation

RVs are often exposed to high humidity levels, especially when used in areas with a lot of moisture, like when near lakes or rivers. The moisture in the air can condense on cool surfaces inside the RV, providing an ideal environment for mold and mildew to grow.

Water Leaks

Leaking roofs, windows, or plumbing can introduce water into the RV’s interior. If not promptly addressed, this moisture can accumulate in hidden areas, such as inside walls or under flooring, and lead to mold growth.

Poor Ventilation

Inadequate ventilation can also trap moisture inside the RV, especially in bathrooms and kitchens where steam and humidity are common. Proper ventilation, like using roof vents and opening windows, can help reduce moisture buildup. This is especially important during storage when condensation can occur with temperature changes.

Tips To Reduce Mold and Mildew On Interior Surfaces

Reduce interior moisture such as wet clothing, cooking, and condensation. Identify what might be adding moisture to the air such as showers, boiling water for cooking, and wet clothes or towels hanging in the bathroom. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry such as shower curtains, and countertops, and don’t leave any items standing around wet such as dishes. Increase airflow with roof vents and fans, and use dehumidifiers such as damp rid or even portable units. Open cabinets and closet doors to allow more air circulation.

This winter I tried a renewable dehumidifier called H2Out in a Thor Challenger and it was outstanding. They have different sizes that cover anywhere from 25 sq ft to 900 sq ft and all you need to do is put them in an oven to dry out the proprietary beads.

We put a couple of the 600 sf models in the bedroom and a couple in the living room with the cabinets open and had no condensation and zero mold!

Exterior Mold

Mold represents a type of fungal growth that adheres to dirt on surfaces, and once it reaches the black stage, eradicating it becomes notably challenging. Furthermore, it has the potential to cause permanent staining on roofing materials, especially rubber membranes. This underscores the significance of not only periodically cleaning rubber membranes like TPO and EPDM but also conditioning them.

Since fiberglass roof material is flat, it is less likely to house dirt, dust, and moisture like the rubber membrane which has pockets and can produce a perfect environment for mold to form.

Preventative Maintenance

Periodically clean the roof with Dawn Dish Soap and water by parking the rig on a slanted driveway for moisture runoff. Make sure the ladder is at the back or high point so you can get down safely when done.

Put a ¼ cup of Dawn in a 5-gallon bucket of water and fill it with warm water. Have someone periodically spray down the sides of the rig so no chalk or dirt from the roof sticks to the sidewall and windows. Using a mop or foam brush on a stick, start at the front spray a 4’ corner with a hose, and mop it down. Rinse it off and move over to the right side. Doing this in 4’ sections and working your way to the back ensures you are always walking on dry material.

Removing Existing Mold

If your roof material already shows signs of mold and mildew buildup, I would first start by cleaning it with Dawn Dish Soap and if it needs more treatment, you can use a variety of products including over-the-counter bathroom products such as Tilex Mold Remover or Mold Armor. For years I have used a ¼ cup of bleach in 5 gallons of water and it has worked very well, however, some people claim bleach is not environmentally friendly and will harm the environment and sewer systems. I have worked with our local Department Of Natural Resources (DNR) and Sanitary District and they stated that 1/4 cup mixed in one gallon of water and then diluted by 15 gallons of water would not affect a septic system. It would need to be 3/4 cup in every gallon to qualify as too powerful a solution.

I have also used Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) found in the paint section of home improvement stores, however, several states have banned this product but I do see TSP alternatives.

Awnings

Another exterior material that can develop mold and mildew is the vinyl and acrylic fabric used in awnings. Once again, the mold is attaching to dirt, dust, and moisture on the material, not the material itself so it is important to periodically clean the awning material as well using the same Dawn Dish Soap. The main culprit when it comes to awnings and mold is rolling the awning up when it is wet, or letting it sit out long enough to develop condensation. Periodically cleaning and letting it dry completely is the best way to prevent mold and mildew on awning fabric.

Remember, keeping your RV mold and mildew-free is not only about maintaining a comfortable and healthy living environment but also ensuring the longevity of your RV’s materials. By taking these preventive measures and addressing issues promptly, you can enjoy your RV adventures with peace of mind and a clean, mold-free space. Happy RVing!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Joan M. ~ “The entire process couldn’t have been more seamless. We have used other roadside programs in the past and none of them have lived up, that’s why we went with Coach-Net! There is no comparison! We absolutely recommend you to everyone!’’

Can Your Hitch Handle Your RV?

02 Wednesday Aug 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Whether you are driving a motorized and towing a car (toad) behind, or in a truck or car pulling a travel trailer commonly referred to as “bumper pull” it is important to inspect your hitch every time you go on a trip and even look at the traditional method of hooking up. It may not be the best or safest way!

I have worked with several hitch manufacturers over the years producing how-to videos and even helped develop the RV Safety & Education Foundation’s (RVSEF) safety training program for years the procedure to properly connect a toad or bumper pull has been to connect the trailer or tow bar hitch to the ball on the tow vehicle, cross the safety chains underneath and connect them to the round connection on each side of the hitch, and connect the breakaway cable to some portion on the hitch, not the safety cable.

This is a typical hitch with a receiver tube and safety cable connection. Notice the round opening for the safety chains and breakaway cable are connected to the hitch.

Most often when a trailer disconnects from the hitch, the trailer coupler comes off the ball so the safety chains would help cradle the trailer coupler and tongue. This would also be the case if the bar of the ball mount broke.

However, since the hitch is typically welded to the bumper frame or cross member what happens if the entire hitch assembly were to break off? I had a recent reader from RV Travel.com send a question about how does an owner check the weld of a hitch? Good question as most are almost impossible to see. Here is what caused her to ask the question.

The entire hitch assembly broke away from the bar it was welded to so the safety chains and breakaway cable went with it and the entire toad zig-zagged back and forth until it came to a rest on the side of the interstate. Luckily nobody was hurt and there was limited damage.

This is the hitch and as you can see the rings for the safety chains and the breakaway cable are connected to the component. And notice from the previous photo, they were not towing anywhere near their maximum towing capacity with a little Fiat.

There are three things to be learned from this.

1. Have your hitch periodically checked by someone that can crawl underneath or can lift the unit on a hoist and inspect every aspect of the welds or bolts. Any hairline cracks need to be attended to immediately. I do not know if this could have been detected, but most of us take our hitches for granted.

2. Attach additional connecting points for your safety chains and breakaway cable to a solid portion of the chassis or tow vehicle.  You can purchase aftermarket safety chain brackets from Etrailer or other supplies that can be welded or bolted to a solid chassis component. You can also attach the breakaway cable there as well. If you don’t have a remote bracket, at least mount the breakaway cable to something other than the hitch.

3. Install an auxiliary braking system in your towed vehicle. Most trailers come with electric trailer brakes. Inspect them often and test them on gravel to make sure they are working. If you have a motorized RV pulling a car or truck, anything over 1,500 lbs should have an auxiliary braking system such as the Blue Ox Patriot or Roadmaster Invisbrake. Each state has its own Road Use Laws and some require brakes on anything over 3,000 lbs, others at 1,500, and some are mandatory on anything towed. An auxiliary braking system will not only help slow down the momentum of the towed vehicle but will also reduce the stress of a sudden stop on the hitch assembly which would put undue stress on the hitch connection and cause this to happen.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Terry P. ~ “As a proud member of Coach-Net, I can’t praise their service enough! The call agents were so friendly and went above and beyond to provide the help we needed. My wife, our adorable cat, and I are full-time RVers who love to travel and explore. We’ve even trained our cat to walk on a leash!

Recently, we encountered an issue with our fireplace – the breaker kept tripping, and the breaker box was getting way too hot. Worried about our safety, we immediately contacted Coach-Net for assistance. They swiftly found a nearby service location for us. The technician they connected us with was highly knowledgeable and thorough. He not only helped locate a professional to fix the fireplace but also patiently tackled multiple other issues we faced during the process.

Coming from an experience with other providers in the past, I must say Coach-Net truly exceeded my expectations. Their approach to customer service was exceptional. They recognized that I had some electrical expertise and adjusted their communication accordingly, ensuring we worked together seamlessly to get everything fixed. It was an absolute pleasure dealing with them! I can’t recommend them enough – their dedication to providing top-notch assistance and going the extra mile is truly commendable. If you’re an RVer like us, trust me, Coach-Net is the way to go!’’

Converters and Inverters – What Is The Difference When It Comes To Battery Charging?

04 Wednesday Jan 2023

Posted by in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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There have been several inquiries from owners, old and new, about converters and inverters, and it’s clear that there is some confusion about their capabilities and functions. This is completely understandable, as there are various types of converters and an even greater number of inverters! So, let’s dive in!

Converter

A converter is basically a battery charger that receives 120-volt AC power from either a campground source or a generator and turns it into 12-volt DC power to charge the house battery or batteries. The most basic converter is located in a distribution center alongside the 120-volt circuit breakers and is called an all-in-one unit similar to this style.

The converter/charger is located behind the vents or grills on the right side and has a dedicated circuit breaker which is usually the one closest to the converter.

These are a less expensive model, however, they can be noisy and produce heat so some manufacturers are moving to a standalone model and putting it under the bed or inside cabinetry. There is still a distribution center with circuit breakers and 12-volt automotive-style fuses, but the converter/charger is hidden.

Above is a photo of a WFCO installed under the bed behind a false wall. They can be difficult to find and even more difficult to remove and install the new converter when looking to install lithium batteries!

A typical converter is connected to the house batteries and senses the charge. When the batteries are low, (approximately 50% drained) the converter will provide a charge of approximately 13.6-volts until the batteries reach 12.6-volts which is fully charged. Then the converter will drop to a float charge of 13.2-volts in order to avoid overcharging the battery/batteries.

The disadvantage is that it does not provide proper charging and maintenance. Sulfur will coat the lead plates in lead acid and AGM battery as it drains and only a high voltage charge known as the bulk charge or desulfation charge will break up the coating. Otherwise, it just gets thicker with each draw and eventually greatly reduces the battery’s ability to store power. It can also take 8 hours or longer to charge.

Progressive Dynamics offers a charger that provides 13.8-volts for 8 hours, which creates some desulfation, and the PD9200 with Charge Wizard also does a nice job.

A multi-stage charger will provide a bulk charge at 14.6-16-volts that will break up the sulfation and then moves to an equalizing charge to equalize each cell, followed by a float charge.

NOTE: You do not want to use this type of charger with Lithium Batteries as they require only a 14.6-volt charge and the bulk stage could ruin them!

There is very little maintenance required with either the all-in-one version or the standalone other than to monitor the condition of your lead acid battery/batteries. It is also recommended to periodically check all wiring connections for corrosion and tight fitting. If a converter goes bad it will either lose its ability to charge or not come out of the initial higher charge of 13.6-13.8 volts overcharging the batteries. Be sure to check the fluid level of the battery and in my opinion, it is a good idea to get a good battery monitor other than the three-light versions on the monitor panel.

The monitor shown below is a Go Power! product and is the version we installed in our Thor.

Inverter/Charger

An inverter is designed to take 12-volt DC power from the house battery bank and change or invert it to 120-volt AC power for appliances and outlets. Smaller inverters were first used with the entertainment centers to power just the TV and VCR and were about 100 watts. This was designed to power the TV while boondocking or dry camping temporarily and did not power anything else in the rig.

As more power was needed for other outlets and appliances such as residential refrigerators, larger inverters came along such as the Freedom 2000 which also had a battery charger incorporated.

This type of inverter would not only take 12-volt power from a larger battery bank and provide pure sine wave 120-volt power to several outlets and the residential refrigerator but would also provide a multi-stage charge to the house batteries.

Several companies have made their way into the market with inverters/chargers as low as 1000-watt models. The key in deciding which is right for you is to look at what wattage requirements you need for your rig, the battery bank you have, and the amp rating of the charger.

Companies with a reliable track record according to the RV manufacturers and service centers that I have worked with are Go Power, Xantrex, Victron which Keystone uses, and Renogy.

As with a converter, there is very little maintenance required for inverters other than battery maintenance and periodic checking of connections for corrosion.

Which Do I Need, A Converter Or An Inverter/Charger?


Usually, you don’t have a choice as the rig comes from the factory with a distribution center that has a converter/charger incorporated. This is either in the distribution center, standalone, or an inverter with a charging option.

The time to decide is when the converter fails or you want to upgrade your battery capacity. The determining factor is the amount of time you will be boondocking or dry camping. An inverter is only needed if you are not going to be plugged into a campground source and need to run some 120-volt appliances which would need an inverter or generator power.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ryan C. ~ “Coach-Net was exceptional and did all the leg work to get my tow. They took care of the billing, and all I had to do was wait for the tow truck. No paperwork on site and no hassle whatsoever!”

Holiday Gifts For the RV DIYer That Has It All

07 Wednesday Dec 2022

Posted by in Holidays in your RV, Tips & Tricks

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We all know them, the RVer that has every gizmo and gadget that comes along and is impossible to shop for. Over the years I’ve assembled quite a toolbox of unique measuring tools and every once in a while come across something else new that makes my troubleshooting and repairs easier. And not only that, but some of the gadgets help tell me what is happening in places that I can’t see such as wheel bearings, brakes, and electrical systems.

So here are some must-have tools and gadgets that will make you a hit with that hard-to-shop-for RVer.

Infrared Thermometer

The Infrared Thermometer allows you to pinpoint temperatures with a laser pointer to identify issues with heating, cooling, and axles. Every day you hit the road you should not only check the air pressure in the tires but also monitor what is happening in the bearings and brakes. Stop at some point during the day and check the hub of your trailer, brake drum, and tires. Then check the ambient temperature by using the side of your rig. If the hub temperature is extremely high, the bearing is most likely getting dry and need to be repacked. If the brake drum is extremely high, the auxiliary brakes are probably set too high. Record these temperatures and you will get to understand what is an acceptable temperature and what is extreme.

You can also use this device to get an exact temperature of what is coming out of the roof air conditioner rather than just guessing it’s not cooling enough. The roof air conditioner can only condition the ambient air coming in down 15 degrees so if it is 110 inside your rig, the air coming out can only be 95 degrees and that is not cool. You can also test the temperature of the air coming out the furnace vent to make sure it is acceptable. Knowing the exact temperatures will help with troubleshooting over the phone in case of an emergency.

You can get this device at any home improvement store or for a great value on Amazon here.

Magnetizer/Demagnetizer

There are times I could really use a magnetized screwdriver, especially in those hard-to-reach places with a tiny screw. But I don’t like it sitting in the bag latching on to everything metal including nuts and bolts. Plus it seems that the times I do have one in the bag it’s not the right size or I need a Philips, not a flat head. This is where the Magnetizer comes in handy.

Simply run the head of any metal screwdriver back and forth through the magnetized (+) slot and you have a tool that will latch on to the screw going in or coming out. To demagnetize, simply run it through the demagnetize (-) slot and it’s a normal tool. You can do this with needle nose pliers and drill bits to help catch metal shavings when drilling in metal. I’ve also used it to magnetize a metal coat hanger and retrieve a screw or bolt that dropped down the furnace vent. Find it on Amazon here.

Universal Grip Wrench

For years I’ve called this a “puck wrench” and just recently saw the actual name on Amazon! This not only has both SAE and Metric deep sockets but a unique feature is the rounded 12-point teeth rather than the sharp ones used on most sockets. Snap On patented this years ago and when that ran out, everyone copied it. The rounded edge means it contacts the side of the nut rather than at the point so it will not only fit both Metric and SAE but will also loosen a nut that has been stripped! It has a slot for a screwdriver tip and can also tighten a rounded cup holder.

Find it on Amazon here.

Air Gun

One of the most important maintenance items you can perform on an absorption refrigerator is cleaning out the burner assembly, flue, and back cavity of the compartment

The more you use your absorption refrigerator on LP, the more buildup of soot you will get in the burner assembly and flue. Also, spiders like the smell of propane and can block the flow of LP weaving a web. Once a year it is a good idea to open the back vent panel, put on a pair of safety glasses, and blow out the entire back of the refrigerator. Take off the metal burner assembly shield and get inside to clean it out thoroughly and clean off the back fins of the cooling unit. Your refrigerator will run much more efficiently even on 120-volt power! You might want to add a ¼” flexible hose to get in tough-to-reach spots like I did with mine.

You can find them on Amazon here.

Anemometer (Air Flow Meter)

I get dozens of questions almost every day and many times I get very generic ones that state my air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, my heater is slow, or my airflow from my roof air is low. To diagnose any issue with airflow or temperature you need to know what is normal and what is happening. This inexpensive air flow meter is known as an anemometer which will tell airflow and temperature.

Most RV manufacturers that have ducted roof air will test the ceiling ducts during final inspection to ensure the ductwork is open and the air is flowing and use a much more sophisticated coned type device. As we discussed earlier, the roof air conditioner can only condition or cool the air 15 degrees lower than the air at the intake. Using this device will help tell what the temperature is inside and if it is actually working as designed. Testing the airflow when the unit is cooling efficiently will tell you what the normal speed is and when you think it is not running correctly will help identify what is actually happening. You may be getting good airflow out of a closer vent and very little out of the far vent which might mean there is an obstruction in the ductwork? It will also give you specifics that most tech support personnel at RV manufacturers appreciate.

Find it on Amazon here.

Brake Fluid Moisture Tester

Almost every truck, car and motorhome chassis manufacturer recommends changing the brake fluid every 5 years or 50,000 miles. But who does that? While writing the RV Handbook for Trailer Life Publications I did some research with chassis engineers from Ford and Freightliner as well as talked with several auto technicians and they stated that brake fluid will break down, especially when subjected to extreme heat conditions of RVing as well as ambient temperatures. It can also get condensation with temperature changes and make the fluid break down faster.

Take off the cap and place the tester probes in the brake fluid reservoir for 1 second and the LED lights will tell you the quality of the fluid. You can find it at Amazon here.

Air Conditioner Evaporator And Condenser Fin Comb

Your roof air conditioner draws warm, moist interior air up through the inside return air and draws it through the front evaporator coil. The compressor then sends the coolant to the evaporator coil to flash the air and draw out heat and moisture. The fins of this coil are straight and slotted to allow the air to pass through however if the coils get bent, it restricts airflow. It is more important in the back where the condenser coils draw outside air in to help cool the coolant lines and those outside fins can get smashed with hail or backing into a branch! Visually inspect the coils and use this handy comb to straighten them out. Find it at Amazon here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Karl P. ~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires and checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”

Cool RV Tools Every Camper Should Have!

02 Wednesday Nov 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Everyone has their favorite tools they bring along on an RV trip depending on your level of mechanical and DIY abilities. There have been numerous articles about the basics such as screwdrivers and pliers. Over the past 40 years of RVing and a few more before that working and owning a service station, I have gathered a few more that are pretty unique.

Several years ago I was conducting seminars at the California RV Show and pulled out a couple of meters and gauges that I used in one of the handyman series for testing and after the seminar, a few of the Winnebago Itasca Travelers (WIT) Club members came up and said; “I bet you have developed quite a unique set of tools and gadgets over the years?” And they were right, so I developed one of my most popular seminars called “Cool RV Tools, Gadgets, and must-have Apps”. I will share a few of the more unique ones with you in this article.

Electrical Tools

GFCI Tester

Before plugging into a campground electrical source, it’s important to make sure it has proper voltage and is wired correctly. Whether you are plugging into 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp service, it is important to verify the load wire/wires, neutral, and ground are all connected and not loose. Using a Surge Protector is a great option, however, I found this GFCI tester at Home Depot that not only tells me the wiring is good but also shows the voltage. You do not want to plug into anything that is below 106 volts or above 130 volts. Even if you use a multimeter or Surge Protector, this is a handy device to plug into an inside outlet for a quick reference of voltage and wiring.

Non-Contact Voltage Tester

This handy device will immediately tell you if there is power coming through an extension cord, appliance plug-in, or at an outlet without needing to dig deep into the outlet. If you get the type with a sensitivity dial, you can also test the outside of your rig for hot skin which is a voltage leak due to improper or loose wiring. These are available at home improvement and hardware stores.

Kill A Watt

Most people understand the basics of what they can run on 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp service such as only one roof air conditioner on 30 amps, either the air conditioner or the microwave but not both on 30 amps, and other common items found on your rig. But what power does a toaster draw? How about an air fryer, or hair dryer? It’s important to know what extra items you bring using power especially if you are using 20 or 30-amp power. The Kill A Watt is a handy device that plugs into an outlet and that you plug into an appliance such as an espresso machine, curling iron, or ceramic heater. It will tell you the Watts or Amp so you can better manage your energy usage.

Electrical Cord Holders

Several years ago I was following a friend that was an electrician and saw he had several extension cords and other items hanging on the cage in the back of his pickup. I caught up with him and found he had gotten an old tire inner tube from the local tire shop, cut a 2” band out of the middle, and wrapped it around the cords. He then put in hooks and had everything organized with a handy carrying loop.

I took this idea and have used it in RVs, for video production, and here is a photo of the electrical compartment we just organized for a friend with a Thor this summer. Everything is up off the floor and more room for “STUFF!”

Fresh Water Systems

Intellitec Digital Water Purity Tester

Campgrounds are required to have their water tested and certified once a year however, bacteria, arsenic, and other contaminants can be present between the tests. I found this device that can do a very quick test for impurities. It measures in parts per million (PPM) which means it does not identify what impurities rather there is something in the water that affects continuity between the probes and the higher the PPM, the more impurities. Today I can only find this on Amazon.

Filtermate Test Kit

Even if the water supply passes the average test, does not mean it is the best water source for your pets, children, or your rig’s water supply. Most campground water sources will be hard water which means there is calcium, lime, and rust that could clog up pipes, filters, and faucets. There are several test kits that will determine the hardness of the water, PH, and other chemicals that might be an issue at the campground. I find these mostly at home improvement stores. These kits can help determine if you need a water filter, and what kind.

Water Pressure Tester

Most campgrounds will have a well-type water system with a pump rather than a regulated municipal type. That means you could get low pressure or even worse, high pressure that your water lines and connections can not handle. Most RVs today have ½” plastic lines such as PEX with either a crimped-on ring at the connections or a compression-type fitting. Most can handle at least 40 psi or some up to 60 psi which is the water pressure coming into the rig. It’s important to test the water pressure before hooking up and to know what your rig can handle! My folks went to visit my brother and hooked up the city water hose to the outside faucet at his house and later that afternoon had a soaked floor. The connections could not handle the pressure and water just slowly seeped out.

Screw this onto the water supply at the campground or house to test the pressure. Or you can use the next tool!

Water Pressure Regulator/Filter

This is not actually a tool but rather an accessory but I include it as the type I like to use is not so common. Most RVers like to use an inline filter such as Camco or Shurflo which you sell all over the campground. I like to use a residential style on such as this Omni version that you often see under the sink in homes. This type of filter has a replaceable cartridge insert that can also be customized for the type of filtering you need. I can replace the cartridge for over half the cost of the all-in-one inline filter.

Notice the 40 psi reducer attached to the faucet as this old-style farm handle would give me 80 psi! Plus this is one of the few accordion-type hoses that is drinking water safe!

Winterizing Hose

I like to use compressed air to blow all the water out of the system rather than put in gallons and gallons of pink RV antifreeze. Usually, I do this by myself and there has not been a good method to connect the air hose of my compressor to the screw-in air valve to the city water fill. So I built my own using the male end of an old water hose that connects to the city water fill and added an air chuck with a worm clamp. This way I can connect this to the city water fill, turn the compressor down to 40 psi, connect the hose with the quick connect, and open all the faucets and other devices by myself.

Liquid Propane (LP)

LP Leak Detector

By RVIA code, all RVs come with an LP Leak Detector installed which has a sensor that will provide an audible beep if it detects LP in the air. This is usually located under a kitchen cabinet or other lower cabinet location as LP is heavier than air and will settle.

There are several areas that could have a slight LP leak that would not be detected by this unit such as at the DOT cylinders on trailers or ASME tank on a motorhome. All LP appliances have an LP hose and connection which could also leak and might not be detected by the device in locations like the back of the refrigerator, outside grill, outside kitchen, and the furnace. That is why I like to periodically check the connections with my own portable LP Leak Detector which I found on Amazon for $20.

This is a much more accurate and pinpoint device that allows you to test lines and connections that the floor-mounted device might not detect.

Gas Stop

Gas Stop is a device that will instantly and automatically shut off the LP delivery system in the event of a major leak such as a ruptured line or other failures. Even though all RV LP fuel supply containers have a spring-loaded excess flow valve, there is still a slight chance of malfunction of the valve and it can get stuck in bypass and appliances will not work. This device will also show you the level of LP in the container and can sense a very slight leak in the system.

Stay tuned, next month we will show a refrigerator vent blowout tool as well as a “comb” to straighten the evaporator coils. And then one of my favorites, the “Magnetizer”!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Swain W. ~ “Service was excellent and follow-up was fantastic. It means a lot to be taken care of when you are down. Very happy with everyone’s performance I would not have known what to do or who to call if I had not had Coach-Net. You all were excellent.” 

5 Reasons to Travel in an RV Instead of A Car

11 Thursday Aug 2022

Posted by in Traveling with your Pet, Uncategorized

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RVs are a great way to travel. They take you off the beaten path and into nature. There are many types of RVs to choose from, ranging from Class A motor homes to Class C motor homes and even pop-up campers. The choice is yours based on your needs and your budget.

These vehicles have skyrocketed in popularity in recent years, and some people are even converting their RVs into permanent homes. No wonder! It’s a great way to lower overhead and enjoy living and traveling without sacrificing comfort or style. There are a variety of reasons why people choose to travel in recreational vehicles. Here are some reasons you might want to as well.

RVs Bring More Comfort

There’s no comparison between the comfort of a car and that of a recreational vehicle. With an RV, you often have access to a bathroom and kitchen too, so you don’t have to deal with the discomforts of “holding it” until you can find a bathroom or waiting until you can find a restaurant to eat in. You can cook a meal on the road and enjoy it in comfort.

When you travel the country in an RV, you explore the countryside in comfort and style, without having to put up with the hassles of a traditional hotel stay (or worse, having to sleep in your car). Your lodging travels with you and it’s easy to access.

RVs Can Be a Cheaper Way to Travel

Recreational vehicles are often cheaper to run than rental cars or public transportation, especially if you camp instead of using paid overnight sites. Some large box stores, like Walmart, welcome recreational vehicles overnight too. Needless to say, that’s cheaper than staying in a hotel. The conveniences of home can be brought along without worrying about paying for lodgings. If you have an RV or camper van, then you’re probably already aware of some of the great benefits that bring. Your lodging travels with you.

RVs Have More Storage Space

If you like to bring the house with you when you travel, an RV is the obvious choice. The spacious interior allows you to set up your house inside for maximal comfort and convenience when you travel. The first and foremost benefit is that you will have more space and storage required to accommodate your personal items. This will give you the freedom to carry along your favorite things while traveling.

You Can Bring Your Pets Comfortably

One of the worst aspects of traveling in a car is how hard it makes it to bring your pets along, but it’s easier in a recreational vehicle with the extra room. Although there are a few guidelines you need to follow when traveling with pets in an RV, the benefits are well worth the extra effort. Not only will your pet have a wonderful time riding with you, but you also get to enjoy his/her company in a different way than you usual. Don’t leave Fido behind!

A RV Can Be Your Office on Wheels

RVs have long been an affordable and fun way to travel the open road. And now, thanks to technology and the entrepreneurial spirit, you can get an office on wheels to stay productive no matter where ever you roam. If you’re using your recreational vehicle as an office, you may also be able to write off a portion of it to save on taxes. Many people dream of having an office in their RV so they can travel all over the country while accomplishing their work goals. It’s more achievable than ever!

The Bottom Line

Traveling in an RV is an experience unlike any other. From the amount of freedom that comes from traveling wherever, whenever, to the amenities and comforts of home, a recreational vehicle can make your travels easier, cheaper, and more comfortable. RVs are anything but just a vehicle to get from one place to another. They are, in fact, a home away from home for those who love to travel in comfort. Take advantage of it by planning an excursion of your own, RV-style!

Douglas M. ~ “The concern displayed by the call agent was awesome. The response was fast by the service provider and was terrific. Thanks so very much for this fantastic coverage!” 

12 Camping Safety Rules for Children

20 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in RV Safety

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Children love camping. They get the freedom to run around and explore, and the entire experience is one big adventure for them. Camping also provides an excellent family bonding experience and an opportunity for kids to learn more about nature.

Of course, you will want to give your kids the freedom to enjoy the outdoors. However, the woods are not as safe as your backyard. Consequently, setting safety rules to keep kids safe on a camping trip would be wise. Here are twelve safety rules to allow kids to enjoy a family camping trip and stay safe.

1. Stay Within the Campsite Boundaries

Beyond the boundaries of the immediate campsite, there are likely miles and miles of unpopulated country containing wild animals, water hazards, and other dangers. And in wooded areas, it will be easy for children to lose their way. It is best, therefore, to set boundaries around the campsite beyond which children must not go.

2. Stay Together

When children go outside the campsite boundary, it is best to always go in twos. Younger kids might partner up with an older sibling if they go exploring. Alternatively, you might prefer to insist on an adult accompanying a younger child. If children are never alone, there will always be someone there to raise the alarm should a child have an accident.

3. Keep the Campsite Clean

Animals have a keen sense of smell. So, kids should be aware of the dangers of leaving litter out. If you leave out any food, scraps, or garbage, you might get wild animals visiting your campsite, including bears. Consequently, cleanliness is even more important when camping.

4. Don’t Touch the Campfire

Sitting around the campfire is part of the family camping experience. Still, children need to be extra careful around fire. So, kids should be supervised when you have a campfire, and there should be no playing with the fire or embers. The same applies to lanterns, stoves, and grills.

5. Never Approach a Wild Animal

Wild animals may look cute and cuddly, but they have teeth! Kids should be taught never to approach wild animals or try to pet them. It would also be wise to explain to children that even harmless-looking small or young animals should be left alone. Wherever there is a baby animal, there is likely to be a much larger and very protective mum or dad nearby.

6. Always Carry a Whistle

It’s a good idea to give children a safety whistle on a camping trip, both at the campsite and when hiking. Then, if kids lose sight of their parents or can’t find their way back to camp, they can call for help with the whistle. However, you will also need to establish that the whistle is only for use in an emergency.

7. Don’t Eat Anything You Find

Berries, nuts, and mushrooms you find in the woods might look tempting. However, they might be poisonous. So, kids should be taught not to eat anything they find in the woods, even if it appears to be something they would eat at home. You should also not drink any water you find, however clean and refreshing it may look.

8. Drink Plenty of Water

Children are likely to be highly active on a camping holiday, and, if you are lucky, the sun will be shining too. Consequently, it will be easy for kids to get dehydrated. So, kids should be encouraged to drink plenty of water throughout the day. But, as mentioned above, they should only drink the water you provide.

9. Stay on The Trail

When hiking, older children will likely want to run ahead of you and explore by themselves. When they do, it would be best for them to stick to the trail and stay within sight of their parents or guardians. And as mentioned above, children should also carry their safety whistles. If kids go off-trail, they can quickly get lost or stumble into a dangerous situation.

10. No Bare Feet

It is best not to allow kids to run around barefoot when camping. You might want to use sandals or flip-flops around the campsite, but sturdier footwear will be needed when hiking trails. Without shoes, kids’ feet can be injured by thorns, rocks, and poisonous plants. The no bare feet rule is also a good one for adults to follow.

11. Watch Out for Poisonous Plants

If kids are unfamiliar with the outdoors, giving them a pre-camping-trip lesson on identifying poisonous plants would be a good move. Show them pictures of poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac, and tell them to avoid these plants. Insect nests should be avoided, too. So, ‘no poking ants, hornets, or any other insect nests’ would be another good camping safety rule to have in place.

12. No Food or Fire inside Tents

Your kids will undoubtedly know not to play with fire. Nevertheless, items such as matches and lighters may be easier to come by on the campsite. So, it is worth reinforcing this rule and emphasizing the dangers of having a naked flame inside or near tents. It is also best not to allow food inside tents because it attracts wildlife.

Conclusion

Making a load of rules for kids on holiday might feel like you are taking some of the fun out of camping. But kids can still have plenty of fun and freedom, even when playing within the boundaries of these rules. What’s more, if you play it safe, there is less chance that you will have to cut the holiday short. So, not only will a few camping safety rules keep your kids safe, but they will also ensure the fun lasts for longer.

Scott H. ~ “We have been extremely happy with Coach-Net’s service agents as well as the overall service that they provide.”