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There is something very calming about driving down the road in an RV – that is until you encounter that unwelcome rattle or broken dish. This experience is made even worse when the damage occurs in a trailer in tow and the resulting mess is not discovered until you make camp.
Recreational vehicles, regardless of the type and price point, often exhibit an annoying buzz, rattle, squeak, or other noise. Sometimes this originates in the coach itself, sometimes it is caused by something that has not been properly packed or stowed, and sometimes it’s a combination of both. The offending sound may occur while driving or stationary, and may be constant or intermittent. I once had a very frustrated coach owner bring his unit in because every time he walked across the floor of his fifth-wheel there would be an annoying creaking sound. After an investigation, I discovered that his in-floor furnace duct was rubbing against the underside of the floor whenever he put weight on it. I resolved the issue by installing braces and spacers between the duct and the floor.
In terms of chassis noises, these are best identified when you first purchase your unit and before you have packed any of your belongings into it. If the unit is motorized, listen for any unusual noises or sounds as you are driving it home. Have somebody else with you when you pick it up. If you hear anything unusual, have your co-pilot walk around the coach and try to identify where the noise is coming from. One of my recent coaches exhibited an incessant rattle while driving. It wasn’t until my daughter took the wheel during a family trip that I was able to investigate. I determined that the rattle originated inside the range hood vent mechanism. If you encounter an inherent rattle in your coach, put your ear to everything to find the source. It is important to determine whether the sound originates with the “house” system, or if it is inherent to the chassis or mechanical system. You can often differentiate whether the sound is coming from inside the coach, the engine, or somewhere else, but if in doubt, have the unit checked by a qualified mechanic or RV technician. Mechanical rattles or other noises can be an indication of impending mechanical issues, so it’s best to have them investigated and remedied.
In terms of “owner-induced” noises, it is important to properly pack and stow your belongings before embarking on an RV trip. This is especially true for trailer owners, since noises inside the coach are unlikely to be heard, and breakage is an unwelcome surprise when camp is setup. If something rattles, find it and eliminate the source of the noise. Some simple fixes include:
- Using tea towels to pack between dishes, glasses, etc.
- Retightening a cabinet door handle or reclosing the cabinet door to make sure it is secure
- Using a bungee cord to stop a screen door rattle
RVing is a very relaxing activity, but incessant rattles and other noises can cause frustration and annoyance. Fortunately, these can be eliminated most of the time with a little pre-planning and creative problem-solving.
What tips can you share? Please comment below.
About the Author:
Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.
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We have been rv ing for many years in all types- trailers, class c, both gas & diesel pushers. We have found that many rattles are because poor quality or poor workmanship. In coaches, many times you get what you pay for. Buy cheap from places like Campling World, & that’s what you get=cheap. Buy a good product from a reputable dealer that sells name brands with good warranty & factory support like Tiffen & you will note the difference. Sometimes the cheapest is not the best deal in the long run. Quality costs $$, but you get it back in spades, as well @ trade in time. We all know a Mercedes costs more than a Chevrolet= enough said. Have you got the picture.
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We have also been rv ing for years and we never leave home without Velcro! It works wonders on door and windows that rattle. You can by the stick on type and it is very easy to use.
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Help– just bought a new BT cruser and what a POS it is. The rattles are impossible to find because they are in the walls and drive me crazy. I am a bit anal and will tear into this thing until I get it livable. So I have been into every nuck and cranny and behind every door there is a problem. Loose wires or for what ever reason extra nuts and screws and even a piece of sheet metal loose rattling about. Very true, workman ship is poor. A pinched off drain hose for the water tank . Just a world of things that a Gulf stream BT cruser would think have a bit more pride in the rattle world. A small thing of using tye wraps and clamps in the walls on the wire bundles. To get to the point– I am going to try in the walls that have plumbing and wires that rattle bad, drilling a small hole in a couple of areas and spraying some great stuff foam between the walls to fill the gap and around loose wires. My concern is how much to spray and the expansion. I am still thinking on this plan and will try it . The worst that can happen is bowing out the wall a bit but I think I will brace the walls while I do the foam to prevent the bowing and it will expand evenly. Does any one have a better plan just short of cutting into the wall .
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Just be sure to get the non expanding type of foam.
Usually the more expensive type.
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