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The RV Extension Cord Guide

10 Wednesday Jul 2024

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tips & Tricks

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Most RV campsites out there have a power pedestal not too far from the RV pad. This makes it easy to plug in using only the power cord that comes with your RV. That said, there are times when the power pedestal is set far away from the pad, and in these cases, an RV extension cord might be necessary.  

If you’re in a spot where an RV extension cord is required, there are a few things you should know.  

Choosing an RV Extension Cord

If you need to extend the length of your RV power cord, avoid using a typical household extension cord. These cords cannot handle the amperage an RV requires, will quickly become overheated, and could even melt or catch fire. 

Instead, you will need to purchase an RV extension cord—a cord made specifically for use with an RV. Here’s what you should look for as you shop. 

Amperage 

First, you must make sure you purchase a cord with the correct amperage. If your RV requires 30 amps or 50 amps, buy a corresponding RV extension cord. To determine which amperage you need, take a look at the RV plug. If it has three prongs, it is a 30-amp cord, while four-prong plugs indicate the RV is a 50-amp rig.  

Length 

Choosing an RV extension cord length can be tricky. Obviously, you want a cord that reaches where you need it to, but it is also important that the cord is not overly long.

This is because long cable runs can create dangerous and damaging voltage drops. It goes without saying that this isn’t good, so go as short as you can while still giving yourself enough slack to reach the outlet, and generally avoid extension cords that are more than 50 feet long.  

Durability 

Finally, you will, of course, want to purchase something that will last a long time. Make sure to read reviews before buying an RV extension cord to ensure you get a high-quality product that will last a long time.  

The Best RV Extension Cords

Still not sure what to buy? Our favorite option is the Camco Power Grip cord with a locking end. We love that the end locks into place and that the plug comes with a handle, making it easy to unplug the cord correctly. We’ve also found that these cords hold up well, even when used out in the elements.  

Using an RV Extension Cord

Okay, now that you have an extension cord picked out, it’s time to use it. Here are our top tips for using your RV extension cord safely.  

Use a Surge Protector 

First and foremost, it is important that you always use an RV surge protector when plugging your RV into any power outlet. This applies when using an RV extension cord and when you are not. 

Either way, plug the surge protector into the outlet and then plug the RV power cord or extension cord into the surge protector.  

Don’t Link Cords 

We mentioned the dangerous voltage drops that can occur in long runs above. This becomes especially likely when extension cords are linked. For this reason, we don’t recommend plugging one RV extension cord into the next. 

If you must have a longer extension cord than the one you already own, buy a new, longer one rather than a short one to link to your current cord.  

Avoid Water 

We all know that water and electricity do not mix. Even though RV extension cords are made for outdoor usage, keeping the connection points up off the ground and out of the water is a good idea. 

A small stool can be used to raise the connection and keep it out of puddles in case of rain. If you happen to have extra leveling blocks lying around, they also work well for this purpose.  

Pull at the Plug 

It can be tempting to unplug your RV extension cord by pulling on the cord itself. Don’t. Make sure you pull on the plug head itself. Pulling on the cord can cause internal damage to the wires inside the extension cord, which could actually be dangerous.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV extension cords. Why not invest in an extension today so you’re ready the next time you need one? 

May contain affiliate links.  

About the Author: Chelsea G.

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Tim C. ~ “Patrick answered quickly, ensured we were safe, and immediately started working on options to get us safely on the road again! Incredible Service!”

RV Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Tips

12 Wednesday Jun 2024

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Your RV air conditioner is crucial for camping in comfort during the summer months. Unfortunately, these units need repairs once in a while. If your RV AC is giving you problems, try the troubleshooting tips below to get it back up and running.

Lack of Power

If you don’t have any power at all to the AC, there are a couple of simple things you should try before you panic.

Plug-In

First, check your RV plug. Make sure it is plugged all the way into the outlet and there is no damage to the cable going into the RV.

Flip the Breaker

You’ll also want to check the breakers both at the power pole and in the RV breaker box. If a breaker is flipped, switch it back.

Warm Air

Having issues with warm air coming from your RV AC? Here are a couple of things to look at as you try to narrow down the issue.

Check the Capacitors

A capacitor could very well be the culprit. Make sure you discharge your capacitors completely using a discharge tool before testing each one with a multimeter. A bad capacitor is something you can probably replace on your own.

Check the Compressor

It’s also possible for a compressor to cause this issue. Test your compressor with the multimeter. If it is your problem, you’ll want to replace the entire AC unit rather than attempting to replace the part.

Weak Airflow

Warm air is bad, but so is weak airflow. Here’s what you need to test if you don’t have enough air coming from your RV air conditioner.

Look for Freezing

A frozen RV AC will put out very little air. To fix, turn the air conditioner to fan-only mode and run it on high until the ice in the unit melts. If the air conditioner continues to freeze up, you may need to clean the coils and filter.

Look for Clogs

Another problem to look for? Clogged coils or a super dirty air filter. Clean both and then test the unit to see if the airflow gets stronger.

Cover Cracks and Holes

Use a flashlight to take a peek at your ductwork. See a place where air could be escaping? Cover it with metal tape and/or styrofoam to see if that improves things.

Check the Fan

Obviously, it could be that the fan is having issues. Try cleaning and oiling the fan. If this doesn’t work, it might be time for a fan motor replacement.

Excessive Cycling

If your compressor is cycling on and off often, you’re probably dealing with a unit that doesn’t cool properly. Here are some steps to take.

Check the Capacitors

The capacitors will need to be tested in this case as well. Just make sure you discharge them first. If you find that one is bad, replace it.

Look for Ice

Once again, freezing could be the problem. If you find ice in your AC, use the tips above to defrost it and then clean everything to ensure the problem doesn’t return.

Have Parts Professionally Tested

Unfortunately, the other likely surprises are a bad thermostat or a bad control board. It’s best to call a pro in to fix these things.

Dripping Water

Sometimes water will drip from an RV air conditioner. This is never a good thing, but can have a few different causes.

Clean the Drain Pan

A clogged drain pan doesn’t allow water to run where it is supposed to. Instead, it will sometimes run into your rig. Fix this by cleaning the pan and removing the clogs.

Clean the Coils

A unit that freezes up will send bits of water to the floor as the frozen coils thaw out. Clean the coils and filter to try to prevent freezing.

Tighten Things Up

If your AC mounting bolts are loose, they will not hold the gasket snugly in place. This will allow rainwater to find its way under the gasket and into the RV. Tighten the bolts to fix the issue.

Smelly Air Conditioner

RV air conditioners can develop a cave-like smell if the coils or filter become too dirty. Wash both of these things to get rid of any musty smells that may be bothering you while running the AC.

Weird Noises

Pretty much every RV air conditioner out there is going to make some noise. That said, if your AC starts making a new weird noise, you will want to investigate.

Check the Fan

First, check to see if anything is in the way of the fan. Clean the fan and add a bit of oil. If this doesn’t fix your problem and you’re certain the fan is making the noise, you’re probably looking at replacing the fan entirely.

Get Rid of Vibrations

Vibrations on the roof will definitely cause some strange noises inside your RV. Make sure the AC shroud is bolted down tight so it can’t vibrate on the rooftop.

Test the Compressor and Capacitors

While the fan is usually the culprit when it comes to weird AC noises, the compressor or capacitors can make sounds if they are going out. Test both to make sure they aren’t your problem, making sure to discharge the capacitors beforehand.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV air conditioner troubleshooting. Now you can solve your AC problems and camp in comfort all summer long!

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

James L. ~ “Outstanding. Agents make or break the company. They definitely made it with me!!! OUTSTANDING service. Precise answers. Coach-Net turned a stressful situation into a non-stressful learning experience.”

Holiday Gifts For the RV DIYer That Has It All

07 Wednesday Dec 2022

Posted by in Holidays in your RV, Tips & Tricks

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We all know them, the RVer that has every gizmo and gadget that comes along and is impossible to shop for. Over the years I’ve assembled quite a toolbox of unique measuring tools and every once in a while come across something else new that makes my troubleshooting and repairs easier. And not only that, but some of the gadgets help tell me what is happening in places that I can’t see such as wheel bearings, brakes, and electrical systems.

So here are some must-have tools and gadgets that will make you a hit with that hard-to-shop-for RVer.

Infrared Thermometer

The Infrared Thermometer allows you to pinpoint temperatures with a laser pointer to identify issues with heating, cooling, and axles. Every day you hit the road you should not only check the air pressure in the tires but also monitor what is happening in the bearings and brakes. Stop at some point during the day and check the hub of your trailer, brake drum, and tires. Then check the ambient temperature by using the side of your rig. If the hub temperature is extremely high, the bearing is most likely getting dry and need to be repacked. If the brake drum is extremely high, the auxiliary brakes are probably set too high. Record these temperatures and you will get to understand what is an acceptable temperature and what is extreme.

You can also use this device to get an exact temperature of what is coming out of the roof air conditioner rather than just guessing it’s not cooling enough. The roof air conditioner can only condition the ambient air coming in down 15 degrees so if it is 110 inside your rig, the air coming out can only be 95 degrees and that is not cool. You can also test the temperature of the air coming out the furnace vent to make sure it is acceptable. Knowing the exact temperatures will help with troubleshooting over the phone in case of an emergency.

You can get this device at any home improvement store or for a great value on Amazon here.

Magnetizer/Demagnetizer

There are times I could really use a magnetized screwdriver, especially in those hard-to-reach places with a tiny screw. But I don’t like it sitting in the bag latching on to everything metal including nuts and bolts. Plus it seems that the times I do have one in the bag it’s not the right size or I need a Philips, not a flat head. This is where the Magnetizer comes in handy.

Simply run the head of any metal screwdriver back and forth through the magnetized (+) slot and you have a tool that will latch on to the screw going in or coming out. To demagnetize, simply run it through the demagnetize (-) slot and it’s a normal tool. You can do this with needle nose pliers and drill bits to help catch metal shavings when drilling in metal. I’ve also used it to magnetize a metal coat hanger and retrieve a screw or bolt that dropped down the furnace vent. Find it on Amazon here.

Universal Grip Wrench

For years I’ve called this a “puck wrench” and just recently saw the actual name on Amazon! This not only has both SAE and Metric deep sockets but a unique feature is the rounded 12-point teeth rather than the sharp ones used on most sockets. Snap On patented this years ago and when that ran out, everyone copied it. The rounded edge means it contacts the side of the nut rather than at the point so it will not only fit both Metric and SAE but will also loosen a nut that has been stripped! It has a slot for a screwdriver tip and can also tighten a rounded cup holder.

Find it on Amazon here.

Air Gun

One of the most important maintenance items you can perform on an absorption refrigerator is cleaning out the burner assembly, flue, and back cavity of the compartment

The more you use your absorption refrigerator on LP, the more buildup of soot you will get in the burner assembly and flue. Also, spiders like the smell of propane and can block the flow of LP weaving a web. Once a year it is a good idea to open the back vent panel, put on a pair of safety glasses, and blow out the entire back of the refrigerator. Take off the metal burner assembly shield and get inside to clean it out thoroughly and clean off the back fins of the cooling unit. Your refrigerator will run much more efficiently even on 120-volt power! You might want to add a ¼” flexible hose to get in tough-to-reach spots like I did with mine.

You can find them on Amazon here.

Anemometer (Air Flow Meter)

I get dozens of questions almost every day and many times I get very generic ones that state my air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, my heater is slow, or my airflow from my roof air is low. To diagnose any issue with airflow or temperature you need to know what is normal and what is happening. This inexpensive air flow meter is known as an anemometer which will tell airflow and temperature.

Most RV manufacturers that have ducted roof air will test the ceiling ducts during final inspection to ensure the ductwork is open and the air is flowing and use a much more sophisticated coned type device. As we discussed earlier, the roof air conditioner can only condition or cool the air 15 degrees lower than the air at the intake. Using this device will help tell what the temperature is inside and if it is actually working as designed. Testing the airflow when the unit is cooling efficiently will tell you what the normal speed is and when you think it is not running correctly will help identify what is actually happening. You may be getting good airflow out of a closer vent and very little out of the far vent which might mean there is an obstruction in the ductwork? It will also give you specifics that most tech support personnel at RV manufacturers appreciate.

Find it on Amazon here.

Brake Fluid Moisture Tester

Almost every truck, car and motorhome chassis manufacturer recommends changing the brake fluid every 5 years or 50,000 miles. But who does that? While writing the RV Handbook for Trailer Life Publications I did some research with chassis engineers from Ford and Freightliner as well as talked with several auto technicians and they stated that brake fluid will break down, especially when subjected to extreme heat conditions of RVing as well as ambient temperatures. It can also get condensation with temperature changes and make the fluid break down faster.

Take off the cap and place the tester probes in the brake fluid reservoir for 1 second and the LED lights will tell you the quality of the fluid. You can find it at Amazon here.

Air Conditioner Evaporator And Condenser Fin Comb

Your roof air conditioner draws warm, moist interior air up through the inside return air and draws it through the front evaporator coil. The compressor then sends the coolant to the evaporator coil to flash the air and draw out heat and moisture. The fins of this coil are straight and slotted to allow the air to pass through however if the coils get bent, it restricts airflow. It is more important in the back where the condenser coils draw outside air in to help cool the coolant lines and those outside fins can get smashed with hail or backing into a branch! Visually inspect the coils and use this handy comb to straighten them out. Find it at Amazon here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Karl P. ~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires and checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”

Cool RV Tools Every Camper Should Have!

02 Wednesday Nov 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Everyone has their favorite tools they bring along on an RV trip depending on your level of mechanical and DIY abilities. There have been numerous articles about the basics such as screwdrivers and pliers. Over the past 40 years of RVing and a few more before that working and owning a service station, I have gathered a few more that are pretty unique.

Several years ago I was conducting seminars at the California RV Show and pulled out a couple of meters and gauges that I used in one of the handyman series for testing and after the seminar, a few of the Winnebago Itasca Travelers (WIT) Club members came up and said; “I bet you have developed quite a unique set of tools and gadgets over the years?” And they were right, so I developed one of my most popular seminars called “Cool RV Tools, Gadgets, and must-have Apps”. I will share a few of the more unique ones with you in this article.

Electrical Tools

GFCI Tester

Before plugging into a campground electrical source, it’s important to make sure it has proper voltage and is wired correctly. Whether you are plugging into 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp service, it is important to verify the load wire/wires, neutral, and ground are all connected and not loose. Using a Surge Protector is a great option, however, I found this GFCI tester at Home Depot that not only tells me the wiring is good but also shows the voltage. You do not want to plug into anything that is below 106 volts or above 130 volts. Even if you use a multimeter or Surge Protector, this is a handy device to plug into an inside outlet for a quick reference of voltage and wiring.

Non-Contact Voltage Tester

This handy device will immediately tell you if there is power coming through an extension cord, appliance plug-in, or at an outlet without needing to dig deep into the outlet. If you get the type with a sensitivity dial, you can also test the outside of your rig for hot skin which is a voltage leak due to improper or loose wiring. These are available at home improvement and hardware stores.

Kill A Watt

Most people understand the basics of what they can run on 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp service such as only one roof air conditioner on 30 amps, either the air conditioner or the microwave but not both on 30 amps, and other common items found on your rig. But what power does a toaster draw? How about an air fryer, or hair dryer? It’s important to know what extra items you bring using power especially if you are using 20 or 30-amp power. The Kill A Watt is a handy device that plugs into an outlet and that you plug into an appliance such as an espresso machine, curling iron, or ceramic heater. It will tell you the Watts or Amp so you can better manage your energy usage.

Electrical Cord Holders

Several years ago I was following a friend that was an electrician and saw he had several extension cords and other items hanging on the cage in the back of his pickup. I caught up with him and found he had gotten an old tire inner tube from the local tire shop, cut a 2” band out of the middle, and wrapped it around the cords. He then put in hooks and had everything organized with a handy carrying loop.

I took this idea and have used it in RVs, for video production, and here is a photo of the electrical compartment we just organized for a friend with a Thor this summer. Everything is up off the floor and more room for “STUFF!”

Fresh Water Systems

Intellitec Digital Water Purity Tester

Campgrounds are required to have their water tested and certified once a year however, bacteria, arsenic, and other contaminants can be present between the tests. I found this device that can do a very quick test for impurities. It measures in parts per million (PPM) which means it does not identify what impurities rather there is something in the water that affects continuity between the probes and the higher the PPM, the more impurities. Today I can only find this on Amazon.

Filtermate Test Kit

Even if the water supply passes the average test, does not mean it is the best water source for your pets, children, or your rig’s water supply. Most campground water sources will be hard water which means there is calcium, lime, and rust that could clog up pipes, filters, and faucets. There are several test kits that will determine the hardness of the water, PH, and other chemicals that might be an issue at the campground. I find these mostly at home improvement stores. These kits can help determine if you need a water filter, and what kind.

Water Pressure Tester

Most campgrounds will have a well-type water system with a pump rather than a regulated municipal type. That means you could get low pressure or even worse, high pressure that your water lines and connections can not handle. Most RVs today have ½” plastic lines such as PEX with either a crimped-on ring at the connections or a compression-type fitting. Most can handle at least 40 psi or some up to 60 psi which is the water pressure coming into the rig. It’s important to test the water pressure before hooking up and to know what your rig can handle! My folks went to visit my brother and hooked up the city water hose to the outside faucet at his house and later that afternoon had a soaked floor. The connections could not handle the pressure and water just slowly seeped out.

Screw this onto the water supply at the campground or house to test the pressure. Or you can use the next tool!

Water Pressure Regulator/Filter

This is not actually a tool but rather an accessory but I include it as the type I like to use is not so common. Most RVers like to use an inline filter such as Camco or Shurflo which you sell all over the campground. I like to use a residential style on such as this Omni version that you often see under the sink in homes. This type of filter has a replaceable cartridge insert that can also be customized for the type of filtering you need. I can replace the cartridge for over half the cost of the all-in-one inline filter.

Notice the 40 psi reducer attached to the faucet as this old-style farm handle would give me 80 psi! Plus this is one of the few accordion-type hoses that is drinking water safe!

Winterizing Hose

I like to use compressed air to blow all the water out of the system rather than put in gallons and gallons of pink RV antifreeze. Usually, I do this by myself and there has not been a good method to connect the air hose of my compressor to the screw-in air valve to the city water fill. So I built my own using the male end of an old water hose that connects to the city water fill and added an air chuck with a worm clamp. This way I can connect this to the city water fill, turn the compressor down to 40 psi, connect the hose with the quick connect, and open all the faucets and other devices by myself.

Liquid Propane (LP)

LP Leak Detector

By RVIA code, all RVs come with an LP Leak Detector installed which has a sensor that will provide an audible beep if it detects LP in the air. This is usually located under a kitchen cabinet or other lower cabinet location as LP is heavier than air and will settle.

There are several areas that could have a slight LP leak that would not be detected by this unit such as at the DOT cylinders on trailers or ASME tank on a motorhome. All LP appliances have an LP hose and connection which could also leak and might not be detected by the device in locations like the back of the refrigerator, outside grill, outside kitchen, and the furnace. That is why I like to periodically check the connections with my own portable LP Leak Detector which I found on Amazon for $20.

This is a much more accurate and pinpoint device that allows you to test lines and connections that the floor-mounted device might not detect.

Gas Stop

Gas Stop is a device that will instantly and automatically shut off the LP delivery system in the event of a major leak such as a ruptured line or other failures. Even though all RV LP fuel supply containers have a spring-loaded excess flow valve, there is still a slight chance of malfunction of the valve and it can get stuck in bypass and appliances will not work. This device will also show you the level of LP in the container and can sense a very slight leak in the system.

Stay tuned, next month we will show a refrigerator vent blowout tool as well as a “comb” to straighten the evaporator coils. And then one of my favorites, the “Magnetizer”!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Swain W. ~ “Service was excellent and follow-up was fantastic. It means a lot to be taken care of when you are down. Very happy with everyone’s performance I would not have known what to do or who to call if I had not had Coach-Net. You all were excellent.” 

RV Heater Types, Maintenance, & Troubleshooting

05 Wednesday Jan 2022

Posted by in RV Newbie, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Over the years we’ve seen more and more RV enthusiasts not putting their RVs away for the winter or even heading South for warmer temperatures, rather using their rigs for winter activities. I remember some chilly nights at -20 degrees in Fargo ND, a weeklong trip with my own personal “Ski Chalet” in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, and every February we drag out several motorhomes to use as “green rooms” for bands at the Winter Dance Party in Clear Lake IA!

Whatever your type of winter camping, making sure your furnace is operating at the utmost efficiency is important. Let’s take a look at the different types of heaters used in the RV Market:

RV Heater Types

Forced Air Ducted

For years, Suburban, Dometic, and Atwood Hyrdoflame were the main brands available and they all worked in a similar manner. The thermostat would be set to the desired temperature and when the ambient temperature inside the rig gets to that setting it would create a closed circuit and send the 12-volt power to the module board of the furnace calling for heat. The furnace would start the blower motor which exhausted any old air in the intake, burner assembly, and exhaust port. It also pushed air over the burner assembly to the vents drawing interior air for circulation. As the air flowed over the burner assembly it raised a sail switch in the round shroud and once this switch lifted high enough, it would create a close circuit sending 12-volt power back to the module board indicating there was enough airflow to open the gas valve and start the spark sequence. A forced-air–ducted vent furnace typically has an exterior mount and can only be accessed for service from the outside.

Once the burner was lit, air moving over the burner assembly was heated and distributed through the coach by either flexible ductwork under cabinets or under furniture or by a plenum under the floor to floor vents similar to a residential design.

Forced Air Direct Discharge

This design operated the same as the vented version but is used in smaller units without vents and the air is supplied directly from the vents on the furnace itself. It has a much more compact design and can be accessed from inside the rig.

Heat Pump

Another option for heat that has been a source of confusion for many RVers is a heat pump option that is labeled “Electric Heat” on a thermostat. Most heat pumps operate through the roof air conditioner and in simple terms, the unit runs backward and draws BTUs out of the outside air through the coils and evaporator to provide heat inside. These models only are efficient down to about 55 degrees outside temperatures and only supply mild supplemental heat from the 60-65 degree ambient temperature range. The confusing part is the label on the thermostat makes it look like it’s an electric heater that can be used any time you are plugged into shoreline power!

Almost every year I get a call from the group at the Winter Dance Party complaining the heaters don’t work in the units sitting outside as green rooms. In every case they ran the propane out using the forced air heater and switched it to “Elec Heat” and it just blows cold air. That’s because it is 0 degrees outside and there are NO available BTUs for the heat pump! However, it is a good source of free heat in that 55-65 degree range to top off the inside of your coach if you are plugged into shoreline power and not paying extra for it!

Heat Strip

Some roof air conditioners have a heat strip feature that does work on 120-volt power which heat a thin wired strip around the perimeter of the shroud inside the roof air conditioner, however, it is not typically enough to keep the rig warm.

In-Floor Heating Systems

Several models have been introduced over the years including Aqua Hot which has an onboard boiler that heats a liquid solution and routes it around the rig to heat the interior and water heater. I have also seen a few electrical versions of a wired-in-floor system using pads with coils but these are usually an aftermarket installation.

Making Your Forced Air Type More Efficient

There’s not a lot of maintenance required with forced air models either vented or non-vented however, there are things you need to understand to prevent issues.

Proper 12-volt House Battery Power

Even though they run on propane, your furnace needs at least 10.5 volts of DC power to the module board for it to open the gas valve and light. The deceiving part is the fan will run all the way down to 4-5 volts so it seems to have power, just won’t light? Most often the issue is a sulfated battery that can’t keep up even when plugged into shoreline power with all the other appliances running as it seems they are fully charged, but drop off fast if sulfated. I constantly get the question, my furnace will not run and my batteries are good? The only way you can tell your batteries are holding a full charge and providing the amp hours designed is to charge them properly, hook them up to a 24 amp draw machine, and count the hours! Since this is almost never done, hooking up a digital meter only tells you the current charge, not the efficiency. If the batteries are sulfated, they will start off at 12.6 volts but drop fast and a low battery will not provide the power needed to get the airflow out of the fan and raise the sail switch, therefore the gas valve will not open and the unit will not light. If your fan is running, but your furnace does not light, hook up a portable booster to verify it has enough power. If it still does not light, read on.

Low LP Pressure

All LP appliances need 11” of water column pressure to operate properly and this is provided by the regulator at the LP cylinder. If you know you have proper 12-volt power and hear the click of the gas valve opening and the spark trying to light and it does not light, the chance is you have low LP pressure. This can be tested at the furnace by a certified technician, or you can do a quick test by turning on a stove burner and watching the flame. It should be a steady blue one. Turn on a second and then a third and notice the flame. Then turn on another LP appliance such as a water heater or refrigerator and notice the flame. Sometimes appliances work fine for a while then stop. This could be a situation where it is the only appliance working and there is enough LP pressure and 12-volt power for one but when the water heater or refrigerator kicks on at the same time, there isn’t enough of one or the other? This little test will simulate several appliances drawing at the same time.

Sufficient Air Flow

Not only does the sail switch need to be raised at the fan motor shroud, but there must be good airflow out of the direct discharge as well as the vents. If you have rugs over the vents or anything blocking the airflow, it will create back up in the furnace could affect the sail switch but most likely create a rise in temperature building up and the high limit switch will shut the unit off. This is a temperature sensor at the far end of the burner assembly as a safety feature. Keep all vents open and free-flowing.

Maintenance

Even though I mentioned earlier there is very little maintenance required, it’s important to make sure there is good airflow in and out of the outside intake/exhaust vents as well as the interior air return. Spiders and mud daubers love propane and heat and will plug the holes needed to bring fresh air into the burner chamber and exhaust outside.

Make sure they are clean and the air is flowing freely. Sometimes it might be necessary to install a screen over the vent to prevent the build-up of foreign material! If your exhaust vent has an abundance of black soot or what looks like a potential extremely hot situation that has created a burned effect, get it looked at by a certified technician.

Also check inside to make sure there isn’t a build-up of pet hair, dust, or other items that can get drawn into the air return for proper circulation.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Leveling And Stabilizing Are Important For More Than Comfort

03 Wednesday Nov 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Levelers, stabilizers, leveling jacks, scissor jacks, chocks, there are almost as many names for devices that level and stabilize as there are products available. However, these products play an important part in not only leveling and stabilizing your rig but also helping with structural integrity and proper appliance performance!

Leveling Jacks

Most RV owners are familiar with leveling jacks and there are have been several brands over the years. HWH and Power Gear were the big names in hydraulic leveling jacks in the 1990s and 2000s and were powerful enough to lift the tires off the ground of a 22,000 lb diesel pusher.

Lippert Components Inc (LCI) has purchased Power Gear as well as several lighter weight leveling jack providers such as Kwikee that had an electric system and have several of their own LCI brands. The important thing to remember about whatever type of leveling jack you have or are going to install is that they are doing more than just leveling your rig for a comfortable night’s sleep.

In my early days at Winnebago, we tested chassis’, welded foundations, and finished motorhomes on sine wave test tracks as well as computerized pads to determine what type of stress would be applied to various components in an unlevel situation or excess road vibration. At the time we were testing various slide room mechanisms and did over 14,000 extensions and retractions and what we found was in an unlevel condition, not only does the chassis/floor twists but the sidewall does as well and the room has resistance and eventually had created issues with operation. With that, all units with a slide room had leveling jacks as standard equipment.

Back when HWH was “THE” hydraulic leveling jack provider they designed a joystick extension and retraction pad that would only allow a bilateral extension procedure. The photo above is from a 2003 Winnebago Brave and you can see the top and bottom levers would control the front and back jacks. You would push those from center to activate and the center lever extended and retract the jacks in the direction you pushed the lever and it would always extend two jacks in a bilateral direction only. This meant if you pushed the lever forward, the two front jacks would extend, down meant the two back jacks would extend, and side to side following suit. This was designed to reduce the stress of extending one jack on an uneven spot and twisting the chassis. The system also had a pressure-sensitive feature so as you extended the two jacks in whatever direction, they both would come down and if one hit the ground before the other, it would pause until the other hit the ground and raise the coach evenly. This eliminated any twisting in the chassis and ultimately in the sidewall, slide rooms, and other areas of structural importance.

While developing a training program, we put one front tire of a standard chassis on a 12” car ramp to show the twist that occurs on a chassis. We saw that the compartment doors and entrance doors popped open. Yes, this is extreme however imagine what just a slight unlevel condition of 3-4” would do in a campground to the structure of your rig! I have gotten numerous photos of rigs that have the sidewall material shifted from the trim over the years.

So the importance of leveling is keeping the structural integrity of the chassis, flooring, and sidewall in a level plane which will allow the slide rooms to operate without stress and limit the stress on the sidewall to roof structure as well.

One last note on leveling the rig, your absorption refrigerator needs to be level to allow the coolant solution to flow back down to the boiler assembly through the zig-zag tubing. We have covered that many times before.

Stabilizing

Even after all that work of leveling your rig, it might not be stable which means a rock and roll situation that is much more than just annoying! Tires are inflated with air to provide a smooth cushion while driving but are not meant for providing stability when stationary. The four-point leveling jacks do provide superior stabilization, however, most of the other systems could use some assistance. For instance, if you have scissor jacks, they help level smaller rigs and keep them from tipping front to back but provide poor stabilization.

In fact, without additional support and wheel chocking, these can be damaged easily. Most trailer owners add some type of leg support for stability or even wheel stabilizers.

5th wheels pose a larger problem with the long overhead in the front that can get a little spongy and even cause some issues with structural integrity.

These are photos of a unit that has shifted considerably and now has very expensive repairs needed. It’s best to level and stabilize the rig and many 5th wheel owners also add support to the kingpin with a tripod support.

Some even add some additional side-to-side support for the larger rigs.

In addition, every technical support rep and engineer that I have talked with recommends leveling and stabilizing the rig before extending and retracting the slide room. If the rig is out of level and not stabilized, the chassis will shift, the floor will twist, and the sidewall will twist meaning you are trying to extend a square room in a twisted hole and will have resistance.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Martin Colin. ~ “Polite respectful helpful and reassuring. Just what you need when your RV is stuck in the mud on a wet and rainy Friday evening”

Fulltime RVer Tips: 3 Great Web Applications For RV Trip Planning

27 Monday Sep 2021

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My wife Natalie and I have been living in our RV full-time for over six years. We have put thousands of miles on our rig and have planned tons of trips in that time. As a result, we get asked about the best RV trip planning app out there. Honestly, we don’t use just one. There are several big contenders, and each of them has its strengths and weaknesses. So below, you will find the top three RV trip planning web apps we use and why.

RV Trip Wizard

RV Life produces RV Trip Wizard, and it is probably our main trip routing app. That is what puts it on top of the list. Many apps help you find RV parks, disbursed camping sites, and Walmarts, but not many of them will route you with RV-friendly directions. That is precisely where RV Trip Wizard shines.

Cost: $19/month or $49/year

Why We Love RV Trip Wizard

  • Safe Routing And Fuel Stops

Their site offers a free 7-day trial, and when you sign up, you are asked to input your RVs type, size, gas mileage, etc. RV Trip Wizard will use this information to choose the safest route for your rig. It will also use the fuel tank size and gas milage to tell you where you will need to fill up.

  • Time Estimates And Avoiding Tolls, Highways, Etc

Do you want to avoid highways or hate tunnels even when your RV will fit? RV Trip Wizard has many options to avoid different scenarios on your route. You can also allow Trip Wizard to estimate your travel time based on speed limit or choose an average speed that you typically travel.

  • Driving Radius Based On Mileage Or Time

The driving radius is a neat feature. You select a minimum, ideal, and maximum distance based on miles or driving time each day, and RV Trip Wizard will put that radius around your selected stopping location. This makes it easier to decide where your next stop will be. We used to have to measure each driving day manually on Google Maps before discovering this feature.

  • Trip Cost Estimate

You can input the average price of gas, campground stay, and daily food cost, and RV Trip Wizard will estimate the cost of your trip. Alternately, you can input the cost information for each stop to get an accurate estimate of how much your trip will cost.

  • Tons of Filters

Filter RV parks and campgrounds by type, amenities, price, rating, and more. There are tones of filters to narrow down the perfect RV park. It integrates with Campground Reviews, so you get real customer input without leaving the trip planning tool.

  • Points of Interest

RV Trip Wizard allows you to find and filter for different points of interest along your route from gas stations, dump stations, and Walmarts to area attractions.

  • Elevation

RV Trip Wizard shows you the elevation and estimated grades of your entire trip.

  • RV GPS

You can pull up your trips on the RV Life app to use it as an RV-safe GPS unit.

Here is a video of exactly how we use RV Trip Wizard to plan an RV Trip:

Allstays Pro

Allstays is a popular RV trip planning tool for RVers that doesn’t do routing. However, It provides many of the same filters as RV Trip Wizard for finding campsites, gas stops, and services.

Cost: About $35 a year

What It’s Good At

  • Walmart, Truck Stop, and Rest Stop Info

Allstays is good at listing a ton of information about truck stops and rest stops. It will tell you how many parking spaces and amenities are offered such as propane fills or an RV dump station. The same goes for rest areas. Do you need a rest area with an RV dump, WiFi, or any other services? Allstays will tell you.

In addition, when it comes to Walmarts, Cracker Barrels, and other such locations, Allstays will tell you how many RV parking spaces Cracker Barrels have. The description will list other RVers’ experiences at Walmarts with the date for reference.

Allstays is good at giving info on places like Walmarts, truck stops, and rest areas that other services don’t give.

  • Free Camping

Allstays isn’t our preferred boondocking spot finder, but it does have a rather large database of free or almost free campgrounds. Using Allstays, we have been able to find locations that provide full hookups that allow free camping. You can find some of these locations with RV Trip Wizard, but Allstays seems to have more.

What It’s Not Good At

There is only one issue that prevents Allstays from being used exclusively, and that is its lack of routing. You can find just about everything you need to plan an RV trip. However, you must use other map software like Google Maps to plan the route.

The following video shows how we have used a combination of Allstays and Google Maps to plan and route an RV trip.

Campendium

Campendium, like the other services mentioned in the article, will allow you to find RV parks, dump stations, etc. This is our go-to for boondocking, overnight parking spots, and dump station finds.

Cost: Free (ad-supported), or you can get extra perks and additional functionality by becoming a supporter for $20 a year.

What It’s Good At

  • Boondocking

As stated above, if you are looking for boondocking locations, overnight parking spots, and dump stations, Campendium is where to go.

Campendium is our favorite app for finding boondocking spots and overnight parking.

What It’s Not Good At

It doesn’t do routing, list gas stations, or Walmarts.

How We Use All Three

Putting these three services together, we can plan our route any way we like. We do routing and RV park searching in RV Trip Wizard. If we plan a gas stop at a travel center or are interested in more info about a rest area or Walmart, we head over to Allstays to find the info we need. Finally, if we are looking for a boondocking or free spot, we search the area on Campendium. RV Trip Wizard allows you to enter a stop via GPS location which both Allstays and Campendium give for their locations.

When it comes time to hit the road, RV Trip Wizard allows us to open our RV Life app on our phone, pull up the preplanned trip, and tap navigate. The app gives turn by turn RV safe directions and even shows little icons indicating stores and gas stations along the route.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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RV Toilet Repair: Part 2

19 Wednesday Sep 2018

Posted by in Tech Tips

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RV Toilet RepairPart 1 in this series began a discussion about RV toilet repair and introduced possible solutions to two possible sources of water leaks. Part 2 will wrap up this article.

Seals

If you have a ceramic toilet, there is a set of seals separating the toilet bowl from the base. If this seal fails or gets debris stuck in it, it may result in either an external leak originating between the bowl and the base of the toilet, or else you may find that the bowl no longer holds water. This may manifest as either the water leaving the bowl immediately after the toilet is flushed, or the water draining out of the bowl over time.

rv toiletIf you find your toilet bowl does not hold water, the first task is to clean the flush ball. Be sure to inspect it while you are cleaning it, as it may have damage, causing the water to exit the bowl. In this case, you need to replace the ball.

After thoroughly wiping the ball, flush the toilet a few times and wait to see if the bowl holds water. If not, try tightening the band clamp holding the bowl to the base. If this does not resolve the issue, or you experience an external leak between the toilet base and bowl, you will need to replace the bowl seal. This requires loosening the band clamp holding the bowl to the base, removing the bowl, and replacing the seal. It is an easy task for anyone with simple DIY skills.

Water Does Not Properly Enter The Bowl

You may also find that water does not properly enter the bowl when you flush. This may be caused by insufficient water flow rate or a clogged screen filter at the water valve. Ensure your water flow rate is at least 2 gallons per minute (gpm). In the case of the screen filter, inspect the filter located at the inlet to the water valve. The other possible cause of this is clogged rim wash holes around the rim of the toilet. Use a toilet brush or cloth to clean under the toilet rim. If this does not alleviate the issue, you may need to replace the toilet bowl.

Leak From The Back of The Toilet

If you find water leaking from the rear of the toilet, the cause may be a worn or loose vacuum breaker. The vacuum breaker is located under the top rear of the toilet. Remove the white cap from the vacuum breaker and flush the toilet. If water escapes from the vacuum breaker, it will need to be replaced. If the breaker is loose, push it back into place.

While you are troubleshooting any of these symptoms, be sure to inspect the toilet components for cracks or other damage, as a cracked bowl or base can also result in leaks.

Cleaning The Bowl

Be sure to keep the bowl clean using your preferred bathroom or bowl cleanser. Do NOT use abrasives, caustic chemicals, or lubricants and cleaners containing alcohol or petroleum distillates to clean the porcelain bowl or components. Also, to avoid clogging, refrain from using standard household tissue. Use only single or double ply tissue specially designed for RV and marine toilets. Residential tissue contains adhesives used to bond the tissue layers together. These adhesives are hard for the low-flow toilets to break down and digest, which can result in clogs.

There are other failure modes that can occur with RV toilets, but the ones presented in this article series are the primary ones. Other failures may be alleviated based on knowledge acquired here, or refer to your owner’s manual or manufacturers website for more assistance.

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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RV Air Conditioning Tips

19 Wednesday Sep 2018

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RV Air ConditioningThere are some tips and tricks to making your roof AC run more efficiently and provide a cooler interior climate.

Become Familiar With Your Roof AC

The first thing to do is become familiar with how the roof AC operates and what you can expect.  Most RVers think the roof AC uses a coolant such as Freon to “dump” cold air into the rig but this is not the case.  The roof AC operates very similar to your absorption refrigerator and actually draws heat from interior air through the evaporator at the front of the unit.  Warm and humid interior air is drawn up to the roof AC through the return air vent, passes over the evaporator coil and heat and moisture is extracted from it.

If you were to take the cover off the roof AC unit and the evaporator shield you would see the evaporator fins getting very wet immediately and the moisture forming at the bottom on the drip pan.  The compressor does just that – compresses the coolant and pushes or pulls it through tubes known as the low side and high side which changes it from a liquid to a vapor.  This in turn draws moisture and heat in the evaporator and the air is then circulated back into the rig just behind the evaporator coil by the blower fan.

Evaporator

Evaporator

Blower Fan

Blower Fan

Compressor or Pump

Compressor or Pump

The coolant passes through the back condenser fins where the blower motor draws exterior air in and over the coils with the Freon.

Condenser

Condenser

With an understanding of how the system works, it’s important for owners to do a little bit of maintenance so there is proper air flow, sufficient amperage, and no air leaks in the system.

Proper Air Flow

The return air coming from the inside to the evaporator will have a filter. Roof-mounted units with the conditioned air coming directly out of the bottom will have the filter designed into the ceiling shroud.

AC Filter (non ducted)

AC Filter (non ducted)

Units with ducted air vents in the ceiling will have a grill on the ceiling.

AC Filter (ducted)

AC Filter (ducted)

These filters should be cleaned at least once a year and typically more depending on usage and how much dust might be in the air.  Most dealers indicate a dirty filter is over 50% of the issues with a roof AC cooling inefficiency!

Next, make sure the vents are open and operating properly on a ducted roof AC system.  Closed vents will restrict air flow, causing high amp draw and condensation.

  • Check and clean the condensor and evaporator coil every year.
  • Dust, pet hair, and even body powders can get pulled into the return air and clog the coils.
  • There are specific cleaners for the evaporator and condensor coils that should be used each year.
  • Since the evaporator coil is in the front and goes directly to the opening for cool air to the rig, you will need to do a low pressure clean and have a plastic sheet over the blower fan return to keep moisture from entering the rig.
  • Do not use high pressure water as it will not only make a mess, but will damage the coils.
  • Once the coils are clean, make sure they are straight and will allow good air flow.  There are even brushes or combs available to help straighten the fins on the coils.
  • Typically the evaporator coils do not get damaged, rather clogged, however the condenser coils are exposed to the outside and can get hail damage or even tree branches.

Proper Amperage

The roof AC and several other appliances run on 120-volt power which is supplied from the shoreline connection or a generator to the distribution center.  Most RV owners take it for granted that the campground connection is a 30 amp 120-volt power system and they will have no problems just like they did at home.  Unfortunately, the campground source is not as reliable as a residential system and can have severe power loss situations.  If the power drops below 110-volts, the roof AC unit will not be able to function at 100% capacity and even though you hear the fans running and other components, it will not be able to draw the heat out and efficiently cool the unit.   This is why a Surge Guard protection unit is a good idea as it will monitor the incoming voltage.

Air Leaks

Your roof AC unit is mounted with a gasket between the unit an the roof typically with 4 spring loaded fasteners that should be checked for specific torque or tightness every year.  You should be able to find the torque specs in the roof AC owner’s manual however a good hand tightening should be good.  If the gasket is not tight, you will get hot moist outside air coming into the unit and rig which will make it difficult to condidtion the exiting air.  Also, check to make sure you are not getting hot and moist outside air from vents, windows, and event roof ducting.  Seal all the leaks during hot and humid conditions and your roof AC will work more efficiently.

The roof AC can only cool the return air from the inside down about 20 degrees, so if the inside of your rig is 100 degrees, you will only get 80 degrees air back inside!  So the key is to try and keep the inside air temperature as low as possible so the roof AC can run more efficiently.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Brett P. ~ “So glad we decided to get Coach-net. First trip in the RV and needed it. Coach-net was a life saver.”

RV Toilet Repair: Part 1

22 Wednesday Aug 2018

Posted by in Tech Tips

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RV Toilet Repair Among the many items in your RV, there is one that is often neglected due to the messy stigma attached to it. Fixing your toilet when it fails is an important part of RV do-it-yourself (DIY). In this two-part article, I will provide some simple tips for resolving more common toilet failures.

Whether you have a ceramic or plastic toilet, the functionality and repair procedures are largely the same. This article will detail porcelain toilets, but plastic toilet repair is similar. The key toilet components are: water valve, spring cartridge, vacuum breaker, bowl, base, and seals.

The water valve is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the bowl. From time-to-time, you may find this component springs a leak or fails to function properly. Fortunately, water valves are inexpensive and relatively easy to source. Just be sure to identify your make and model of toilet. A water valve is shown at left, but yours may look different. The valve is located near the flush mechanism at the inlet water line termination point. Before removing the valve, verify whether the leak is simply coming from a loose fitting between the valve and water line. In this case, tightening the hose clamp or threaded fitting may alleviate the issue. If not, you will need to replace the water valve. The attachment method of the water valve will depend on your toilet mode but is often two bolts, as shown in the picture. You will have to disconnect the supply line hose from the valve, which may be easier after the valve is removed. Note that if your commode is a porcelain model, it will have a spring cartridge mounted behind the water valve, so be careful during disassembly. Be sure to have rags handy to clean up the residual water spill.

It is also possible to experience a water leak between the base of the toilet and the floor. This means that the leak will be black water, so it is important to address this quickly. If you face this type of leak, first check to see if the toilet is loose on the flange. Grab the toilet and wobble it back and forth to check for movement. If there is, tighten the nuts securing the toilet base to the floor (closet) flange, but do not overtighten them. The nuts can be tightened with a 7/16” wrench. Note that porcelain models have decorative rings covering the toilet base which will have to be removed.

Toilet maintenance_2Also check for damage to the toilet mounting surfaces, missing nuts, etc. After securing the toilet, check to see if the leak has been stopped by repeatedly flushing the toilet. If not, you will need to remove the toilet from the closet flange and replace the flange seal. Be sure to purchase a seal specifically for your toilet, and do not use the standard seal rings available for residential toilets, as they are different. The photo below shows the water valve at the lower left of the toilet, the closet flange on the floor, and the mounting bolts.

Toilet maintenance_3Stay tuned for the next segment where we will discuss other leaks that may occur on an RV toilet.

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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