Category Archives: RV Safety

Understanding RV Hookups

07 Wednesday Aug 2024

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RVing is fantastic because it allows you to travel in comfort, even if you happen to wander into the middle of the desert or park next to the beach. That said, in order to take full advantage of the comforts offered by your RV, you will need to have access to RV hookups.

Not sure what RV hookups are or how to use them? This is the article for you.

What are RV Hookups?

There are three types of RV hookups: water, electric, and sewer. Water hookups allow you to have running water in your rig. Meanwhile, electric RV hookups give you a place to plug your RV in so you have power running to your appliances. Lastly, the sewer hookup gives you a safe and sanitary place to dump your RV tanks via an RV sewer hose.

Where to Find RV Hookups

RV hookups are found in campgrounds and RV parks across the country. While hookups are available at many campgrounds, they aren’t always included in the list of amenities, and even those that have water and/or electricity for RVs may not have sewer hookups at each site. For this reason, you will want to call ahead to make sure that whichever campground you book has the hookups you’d like to have.

Note: Some RVs require 30 amps of electricity, and others require 50 amps. Make sure the campground in question has the right kind of electric hookup for your RV. If not, you might need a dogbone adapter.

Using RV Hookups

Wondering how you go about using RV hookups once you’re parked at a campsite? In this next section, we will go over each type of RV hookup and how to use it.

RV Water Hookups

To connect to an RV water hookup, you will need a freshwater hose and an RV water pressure regulator. Make sure you have a freshwater hose (blue or white) rather than a garden hose, as this will help ensure the water is safe to consume.

Start by connecting the water pressure regulator to the end of the freshwater hose. Screw the other side of the pressure regulator onto the campground water spigot and attach the other end of the hose to the camper at the city water inlet.

Turn the water on at the spigot and head into the RV to check the pressure at the faucets. Adjust as necessary.

RV Electric Hookups

If you want to use an RV electric hookup, you will need an RV surge protector. Make sure you buy the right one for your RV, as there are both 30-amp and 50-amp versions available.

Start by finding the correct outlet on the power pedestal. The 30-amp outlet will have spots for three prongs, and the 50-amp will have spots for four prongs. Plug the surge protector into the correct outlet on the power pedestal and flip the matching breaker into the “on” position. Check the surge protector display to ensure everything is okay with the connection.

If everything looks good, turn the breaker off, plug the RV power cord into the surge protector, and turn the breaker back on. This should give your RV power to run all appliances. That said, you’ll need to be careful not to run too much at once, as doing so will flip the breaker.

RV Sewer Hookups

Finally, you’ll want to hook up to the sewer connection point. For this, we recommend donning some disposable gloves. You’ll also need a sewer hose with all the correct connection pieces.

With your gloves on, remove the caps from the sewer hookup as well as the RV sewer outlet. Twist the threaded piece from your sewer hose kit into the sewer hookup. When that is tight, twist the connector on the end of the hose into the top of the threaded piece.

Carry the other end of the sewer hose to the RV and connect it to the sewer outlet by twisting it into place. Once all connections are secure, you can open the tanks and let the wastewater run into the sewer. We recommend opening the black tank first so that the follow-up gray water can wash the black water out of the hose.

Now that you know the basics of RV hookups, it’s time to put your knowledge to the test. Book a campground now and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime!

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Tim C. ~ “Patrick answered quickly, made sure we were safe, and immediately started working on options to get us safely on the road again! Incredible Service!”

The RV Extension Cord Guide

10 Wednesday Jul 2024

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tips & Tricks

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Most RV campsites out there have a power pedestal not too far from the RV pad. This makes it easy to plug in using only the power cord that comes with your RV. That said, there are times when the power pedestal is set far away from the pad, and in these cases, an RV extension cord might be necessary.  

If you’re in a spot where an RV extension cord is required, there are a few things you should know.  

Choosing an RV Extension Cord

If you need to extend the length of your RV power cord, avoid using a typical household extension cord. These cords cannot handle the amperage an RV requires, will quickly become overheated, and could even melt or catch fire. 

Instead, you will need to purchase an RV extension cord—a cord made specifically for use with an RV. Here’s what you should look for as you shop. 

Amperage 

First, you must make sure you purchase a cord with the correct amperage. If your RV requires 30 amps or 50 amps, buy a corresponding RV extension cord. To determine which amperage you need, take a look at the RV plug. If it has three prongs, it is a 30-amp cord, while four-prong plugs indicate the RV is a 50-amp rig.  

Length 

Choosing an RV extension cord length can be tricky. Obviously, you want a cord that reaches where you need it to, but it is also important that the cord is not overly long.

This is because long cable runs can create dangerous and damaging voltage drops. It goes without saying that this isn’t good, so go as short as you can while still giving yourself enough slack to reach the outlet, and generally avoid extension cords that are more than 50 feet long.  

Durability 

Finally, you will, of course, want to purchase something that will last a long time. Make sure to read reviews before buying an RV extension cord to ensure you get a high-quality product that will last a long time.  

The Best RV Extension Cords

Still not sure what to buy? Our favorite option is the Camco Power Grip cord with a locking end. We love that the end locks into place and that the plug comes with a handle, making it easy to unplug the cord correctly. We’ve also found that these cords hold up well, even when used out in the elements.  

Using an RV Extension Cord

Okay, now that you have an extension cord picked out, it’s time to use it. Here are our top tips for using your RV extension cord safely.  

Use a Surge Protector 

First and foremost, it is important that you always use an RV surge protector when plugging your RV into any power outlet. This applies when using an RV extension cord and when you are not. 

Either way, plug the surge protector into the outlet and then plug the RV power cord or extension cord into the surge protector.  

Don’t Link Cords 

We mentioned the dangerous voltage drops that can occur in long runs above. This becomes especially likely when extension cords are linked. For this reason, we don’t recommend plugging one RV extension cord into the next. 

If you must have a longer extension cord than the one you already own, buy a new, longer one rather than a short one to link to your current cord.  

Avoid Water 

We all know that water and electricity do not mix. Even though RV extension cords are made for outdoor usage, keeping the connection points up off the ground and out of the water is a good idea. 

A small stool can be used to raise the connection and keep it out of puddles in case of rain. If you happen to have extra leveling blocks lying around, they also work well for this purpose.  

Pull at the Plug 

It can be tempting to unplug your RV extension cord by pulling on the cord itself. Don’t. Make sure you pull on the plug head itself. Pulling on the cord can cause internal damage to the wires inside the extension cord, which could actually be dangerous.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV extension cords. Why not invest in an extension today so you’re ready the next time you need one? 

May contain affiliate links.  

About the Author: Chelsea G.

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Tim C. ~ “Patrick answered quickly, ensured we were safe, and immediately started working on options to get us safely on the road again! Incredible Service!”

RV Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Tips

12 Wednesday Jun 2024

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Your RV air conditioner is crucial for camping in comfort during the summer months. Unfortunately, these units need repairs once in a while. If your RV AC is giving you problems, try the troubleshooting tips below to get it back up and running.

Lack of Power

If you don’t have any power at all to the AC, there are a couple of simple things you should try before you panic.

Plug-In

First, check your RV plug. Make sure it is plugged all the way into the outlet and there is no damage to the cable going into the RV.

Flip the Breaker

You’ll also want to check the breakers both at the power pole and in the RV breaker box. If a breaker is flipped, switch it back.

Warm Air

Having issues with warm air coming from your RV AC? Here are a couple of things to look at as you try to narrow down the issue.

Check the Capacitors

A capacitor could very well be the culprit. Make sure you discharge your capacitors completely using a discharge tool before testing each one with a multimeter. A bad capacitor is something you can probably replace on your own.

Check the Compressor

It’s also possible for a compressor to cause this issue. Test your compressor with the multimeter. If it is your problem, you’ll want to replace the entire AC unit rather than attempting to replace the part.

Weak Airflow

Warm air is bad, but so is weak airflow. Here’s what you need to test if you don’t have enough air coming from your RV air conditioner.

Look for Freezing

A frozen RV AC will put out very little air. To fix, turn the air conditioner to fan-only mode and run it on high until the ice in the unit melts. If the air conditioner continues to freeze up, you may need to clean the coils and filter.

Look for Clogs

Another problem to look for? Clogged coils or a super dirty air filter. Clean both and then test the unit to see if the airflow gets stronger.

Cover Cracks and Holes

Use a flashlight to take a peek at your ductwork. See a place where air could be escaping? Cover it with metal tape and/or styrofoam to see if that improves things.

Check the Fan

Obviously, it could be that the fan is having issues. Try cleaning and oiling the fan. If this doesn’t work, it might be time for a fan motor replacement.

Excessive Cycling

If your compressor is cycling on and off often, you’re probably dealing with a unit that doesn’t cool properly. Here are some steps to take.

Check the Capacitors

The capacitors will need to be tested in this case as well. Just make sure you discharge them first. If you find that one is bad, replace it.

Look for Ice

Once again, freezing could be the problem. If you find ice in your AC, use the tips above to defrost it and then clean everything to ensure the problem doesn’t return.

Have Parts Professionally Tested

Unfortunately, the other likely surprises are a bad thermostat or a bad control board. It’s best to call a pro in to fix these things.

Dripping Water

Sometimes water will drip from an RV air conditioner. This is never a good thing, but can have a few different causes.

Clean the Drain Pan

A clogged drain pan doesn’t allow water to run where it is supposed to. Instead, it will sometimes run into your rig. Fix this by cleaning the pan and removing the clogs.

Clean the Coils

A unit that freezes up will send bits of water to the floor as the frozen coils thaw out. Clean the coils and filter to try to prevent freezing.

Tighten Things Up

If your AC mounting bolts are loose, they will not hold the gasket snugly in place. This will allow rainwater to find its way under the gasket and into the RV. Tighten the bolts to fix the issue.

Smelly Air Conditioner

RV air conditioners can develop a cave-like smell if the coils or filter become too dirty. Wash both of these things to get rid of any musty smells that may be bothering you while running the AC.

Weird Noises

Pretty much every RV air conditioner out there is going to make some noise. That said, if your AC starts making a new weird noise, you will want to investigate.

Check the Fan

First, check to see if anything is in the way of the fan. Clean the fan and add a bit of oil. If this doesn’t fix your problem and you’re certain the fan is making the noise, you’re probably looking at replacing the fan entirely.

Get Rid of Vibrations

Vibrations on the roof will definitely cause some strange noises inside your RV. Make sure the AC shroud is bolted down tight so it can’t vibrate on the rooftop.

Test the Compressor and Capacitors

While the fan is usually the culprit when it comes to weird AC noises, the compressor or capacitors can make sounds if they are going out. Test both to make sure they aren’t your problem, making sure to discharge the capacitors beforehand.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV air conditioner troubleshooting. Now you can solve your AC problems and camp in comfort all summer long!

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

James L. ~ “Outstanding. Agents make or break the company. They definitely made it with me!!! OUTSTANDING service. Precise answers. Coach-Net turned a stressful situation into a non-stressful learning experience.”

10 Camping Safety Tips

10 Wednesday Apr 2024

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Camping safety is an incredibly important part of RV travel. After all, you certainly wouldn’t want your fun family road trip to remember to turn into a dangerous disaster you’ll never forget. Fortunately, you can easily reduce the risk that something might go wrong by using some basic camping safety tips.

Not sure where to begin? Here are our top tips.

Always Tell Someone Your Plan

First and foremost, it is important that you always communicate your plan with a loved one. Let them know where you plan to go, what you plan to do when you get there, and when you plan to return home. If you don’t return when you say you would, your friend or family member will know something is amiss and can do something about it.

Check the Weather Forecast

Severe weather is especially dangerous when in an RV or out hiking. Make sure you check the weather forecast before you leave home to make sure you won’t be caught in tornado weather, ice and snow, heavy winds, or heavy rain. All of these things have the potential to be devastating, and it’s better to postpone your camping trip or head elsewhere than to take the risk.

Learn First Aid

You never know what might happen while out exploring. While you might have access to doctors and hospitals most of the time, all it takes is one injury out in the middle of nowhere to create a major catastrophe. Prevent this by learning basic first aid so you can take care of most injuries on the spot no matter where you happen to be.

Just be sure you have a first aid kit with you as well so you have the correct tools to use your first aid knowledge!

Have a Way to Communicate

Cell phones are amazing and will allow you to communicate with family and friends and/or contact emergency services if necessary in most places. Unfortunately, there are some areas of the country that are completely devoid of cell service. For this reason, we recommend always carrying a second way to communicate.

Starlink Internet is great for this if you have a generator or battery bank to run it. Satellite phones are also good in emergency situations.

Never Approach Wildlife

Wild animals are…well, wild. You never know what they may do, and even those animals that seem docile and friendly could turn on you. On top of that, when you’re out in nature, you are in their home, not the other way around.

Respect these facts and keep your distance when viewing wildlife. This will help ensure you return home injury-free, and will also help keep the animals safe.

Know How to Make Repairs

If you’ve been RVing for any length of time, you probably know all too well that things are going to break from time to time. When you’re camping in the middle of the city, you have access to all kinds of supplies, mobile techs, and shops that can help.

That said, when you decide to escape into the wilderness, you don’t have such conveniences. Because of this, it is always a good idea to know how things in your RV and vehicle work, and how you might fix them should they break.

Of course, you’ll also need to make sure to have a good basic tool kit to accompany your knowledge.

Carry Roadside Assistance

Last but definitely not least, it is super important that you carry good RV-specific roadside assistance. Coach-Net Roadside Assistance will be there to help you, even if you happen to find yourself on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Knowing this is definitely reassuring as you head out into the great unknown, and you’ll appreciate the service even more if you ever have to use it!

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Lynn B. ~ “Coach-Net was excellent from beginning to end. I highly recommend this service!”

Stay Warm This Winter With This Easy Furnace Maintenance

10 Wednesday Jan 2024

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Winter is upon us and even if you are one of the lucky RVers that goes South for the winter, temperatures can get below freezing and you want the RV furnace to be in tip-top shape. That means doing a little preventative maintenance.

Most RVers take the furnace for granted as there are typically no filters or lengthy ductwork like the residential models. We just turn the thermostat to the desired temperature and wait for the heat to kick on.

Forced air furnaces such as the Suburban and Dometic brands have either ducted vents going through the rig, or direct airflow coming from the unit. They all operate fairly similarly and should have some basic maintenance performed occasionally.

How The Furnace Works

When the temperature drops to the set point on the thermostat, 12-volt power is sent to the module board on the furnace which starts the fan or blower. It is important to have fully charged house batteries or plugged into shoreline power as the blower motor will start but the gas valve will not open unless there is sufficient power to provide airflow, more on that later.

The fan draws outside air in through the vent purging the burner chamber and exhausting it outside so no outside air enters the rig. The fan also draws interior air through the cold air return and routes it over the burner assembly, past the sail switch, and out to the vents. This air-lifts the sail switch until it gets to the “closed” point, which sends 12-volt power to the module board letting it know there is sufficient airflow and to open the gas valve. Low batteries or insufficient airflow will not lift the switch to the closed position and therefore the furnace will not light. However, it will continue to blow cold air until the battery goes completely dead.

Once there is sufficient airflow and the sail switch gets to the closed position, the gas valve opens and the spark ignitor lights the furnace.

It is important to inspect and clean the exterior intake and exhaust vents so there is no obstruction. Mud daubers and spiders like the smell of propane and can clog up the vent and restrict airflow. There are even aftermarket screens available that will help keep them out without restricting airflow.

Make sure all vents and ductwork are clear and there is good airflow. Do not cover or close vents inside the rig as this will reduce airflow and keep the sail switch from rising or even increase the temperature at the furnace which would create the limit switch to shut off the furnace. Make sure any ductwork weaving through cabinetry or under the sofa is not kinked or obstructed.

If you see excessive black soot on the outside exhaust vent, it could be a sign of improper combustion due to low LP pressure, improper air-to-LP mixture, a dirty burner chamber, or other issues. It is a good idea to have the furnace cleaned and inspected periodically by a certified RV Service Center.

Supplemental Heat

Keep in mind that your RV furnace can only provide a limited amount of heat and trying to heat the entire rig as well as the lower compartments in basement models may not be possible. Using a supplemental heating system helps customize the heat zones and extends the LP life as well. Catalytic heaters such as the Camco Olympian or Mr. Heater allow you to drop the overall temperature down to 60 degrees or lower and just heat the portion of the RV you are using such as the living room during the day or bedroom at night. No need to keep the entire rig at 70 degrees.

These heaters are safe and produce very little moisture or carbon monoxide. They can be portable using the small LP cylinder or hard plumbed to an existing LP system.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Alfred S. ~ “I’ve Been A Member Since 2001 and I’ve NEVER Had Any Problems!”

What You Need To Know About Towing Capacity

06 Wednesday Dec 2023

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One of the most popular questions I get is “What can my truck actually tow?” It ranks just below my refrigerator isn’t cooling, my batteries are dead, my roof air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, and my slide room doesn’t work. OK, so it’s in my top five but I do get it asked quite often!

In the past, we could just look up towing capacity in the Trailer Life towing guide or the truck manufacturer towing guide. As long as we knew the cab configuration, bed length, and engine size, we could get the towing capacity at the tip of our fingers.

Then The Math Changed!

Somewhere around 2010, Toyota came out with the first half-ton truck that had a towing capacity of 10,000 lbs while all the others were at 5-7,000 lbs. My 2002 Silverado had a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs which meant I did not have a very large selection of trailers that I could tow. Truck manufacturers scrambled to reclassify towing capacity using the new math Toyota had developed. My 2002 had a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7,000 lbs and the towing capacity was 5,000 lbs which meant I had a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 12,000 lbs. The new math is taking GCWR and subtracting the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) which is an empty truck and adding a 150 lb driver to determine towing capacity. This shifts payload weight from the tow vehicle to the trailer towing weight. Here is an example; my 2016 has a GVWR of 11,500 lbs and has a dry weight of 5,730 lbs. This means I could theoretically put 5,770 lbs of cargo into this truck which would include any passengers and cargo which is a lot of “stuff” I can bring. So with the new math, we take the 5,730 lbs of dry weight, add a 150 lb driver and it comes to 5,880 lbs, subtract it from the 11,300 lb GVWR and we have 5,620 lbs of extra weight that can be added or shifted to the trailer towing capacity. In the past, you could load your tow truck up to GVWR and then tow the published towing capacity.

What Is The Truth?

It’s hard to wade through all the postings, forums, and blogs when it comes to actual towing capacity, especially with AI and the fact that anyone can write or post anything on the internet without verification or authenticity. What I do know is that I have been working with the RV Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) for the past 25 years and trust them to be the authority when it comes to weights and towing. They have been weighing rigs for over 3 decades and working with tire manufacturers, RV manufacturers, and original equipment manufacturers (OEM) to develop weight information and even convinced the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) to require weight stickers on all units.

There still are towing guides published by Woodall’s, Good Sam, and the truck manufacturers however, they are estimates at best and do not take into account payload, cargo, and passengers. In fact, the towing capacity listed is for a standard truck with a driver of 150 lbs! According to RVSEF you need to know the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of your truck as well as the tongue weight that is on the back axle. Other factors include the GVWR of the truck as well as the GAWR of the rear wheels.

This all means taking the truck and trailer to a CAT Scale and getting it weighed which is not an easy thing to do especially if you are still in the shopping stage. To start with, I went to the RVSEF site that has several towing guides here.

The challenge I had was finding the correct specifications for my truck to look up the information in the various guides. I found the GVWR and GAWR ratings on the data label located on the driver door pillar.

I found the engine size on the label in the engine compartment that stated it was the 5.3L and it is a double door standard bed model. However what I could not find was the axle ratio and the GCWR. I went online and a Chevy source indicated the eight digit of the VIN indicated axle ratio and stated it was the 3.08 axle ratio and had a much lower trailer towing capacity as well as GCWR! To verify, I asked the Executive Director at RVSEF and he stated that most online sources do not take into account all the options and model variations. He stated the true information is found on the options label inside the glove compartment.

Going through all these three digit codes and matching the one to the RVSEF guide I found mine had the 3.42 and according to the owner’s manual, had a trailer towing capacity of 9,200 lbs and a GCWR of 15,000 lbs which I found on line and confirmed in my owner’s manual. Next I needed to weigh both the truck and trailer to make sure I wasn’t overloaded in any of the weight ratings.

Here Are The Numbers That Are Important

GCWR – Gross Combined Weight Rating

The weight of the truck with everyone and everything that will be travel plug the weight of the trailer with all cargo must not exceed the GCWR.

GVWR – Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

The weight of the truck with all passengers and cargo can not exceed the GVWR. Also, the total weight of the trailer loaded with all cargo and water must not exceed the trailer GVWR.

GAWR – Gross Axle Weight Rating

Both axles have a GAWR and must not exceed the poste GAWR for front and rear with all passengers, cargo, and the trailer connected to determine how much weight the tongue of the trailer is applying.

Tongue Weight

Drive off the scale, disconnect the trailer, and weigh the truck or tow vehicle with all passengers and cargo. Subtract this from the original GAWR of the rear axle and this will tell you how much weight is on the hitch which should be somewhere between 10-15% on trailers.

Here were the ratings I found for my truck with a 1996 Salem trailer connected.

Hitched To Trailer

AxleGAWRActual AWR
Front5,000 lbs.3,300 lbs.
Rear7,050 lbs.3,240 lbs.

Trailer weight – 4,340 lbs.
Combined weight, truck and trailer – 10,880 lbs.

Unhitched truck

Front – 3,400 lbs.

Rear – 2,580 lbs.

Hitch weight or payload from trailer – 660 lbs.

The scale has three platforms which allows you to put the front axle on the first pad, the drive or rear axle on the second pad, and the trailer on the third which provides individual weights. This confirms that you are not over any of the weight ratings and can safely tow.

I also took the comprehensive RVSEF Matching Truck To Trailer Training Course here.

I would recommend anyone towing a trailer take the course and they are offering a discount for RV Lifestyle and Repair and Coach-Net members by using this code: RVLRTOW24

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ray M. ~ “We’ve had a service plan with Coach-Net with 2 different RVs and we’re so glad we do.  Twice in less than a month, we’ve called with tire issues.  Both times your representative helped us to get back on the road in a short amount of time.  Thank you from two happy campers.”

8 Tips For RVing In The Desert

01 Wednesday Nov 2023

Posted by in RV Safety, The Great Outdoors

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It may still be hot summer weather right now, but winter will be here before you know it, and it’ll be time to take your RV to warmer places. And one of the best options for this? Camping in the desert!

Yes, camping in the desert is a wonderful thing when the weather in most of the rest of the country is chilly and gray. That said, there are some things you should know before you go. If you’re planning a desert camping trip this winter season, be sure to keep the tips below in mind.

Know When to Go

First, it’s important to note that the time of year you go camping in the desert is key. As mentioned above, the desert is a wonderful place to be in the winter, when it is sunny and wonderfully warm compared to the vast majority of other places. On the flip side, the hot summer months are far from comfortable, and camping in the desert during that time of year could even be downright dangerous.

For this reason, we highly recommend planning your trip for wintertime. If you must visit in summer, make sure you book a site with electrical hookups so you can run your A/C.

Drink Lots of Water

Even in the winter, the desert is a very dry place. This, coupled with the warmer weather, can easily lead to dehydration.

Since nobody wants to feel the effects of dehydrating while trying to enjoy an RV getaway, we suggest always carrying a bottle of water and keeping a way to refill your bottle close at hand. Sipping water throughout the day (rather than drinking it only when you’re thirsty) is absolutely the way to go.

Wear Sunscreen

Camping in the desert during the cooler winter months does not mean you’re safe from the sun’s rays. These rays are especially powerful in the desert where shade is hard to find and the terrain often reflects the light back up at you.

For this reason, sunscreen and sunglasses are desert camping essentials that you should wear every single day you’re there.

Bring the Right Clothing

The right clothing can also make all the difference in the world. Lightweight, light-colored clothing is best. A good hat with a wide brim will provide you with shade when there is no natural shade to be found, and dressing in layers will ensure you stay warm when the temperature drops suddenly as soon as the sun goes down.

Protect Those Feet

If you’re anything like me, you probably spend a huge percentage of your time barefoot. It’s supposed to be healthy for your feet and it certainly is more comfortable. Unfortunately, it’s also a bit hazardous when you’re camping in the desert.

This is because the desert is home to all kinds of prickly plants as well as plenty of snakes and other critters. Stepping on these plants and animals at all wouldn’t be good, but doing so without shoes on is even worse.

Be Aware of Critters

Speaking of snakes, it’s important that you are aware of what kinds of animals you might find while camping in the desert so you can be properly prepared.

For instance, the desert is home to rattlesnakes. Generally speaking, these snakes will leave you alone as long as you don’t bother them, but you definitely want to watch your step so you don’t disturb them. Coyotes, cougars, and scorpions are other creatures you’ll want to watch out for.

Pack a Source of Shade

As mentioned above, shade is hard to come by in the desert. Therefore, we recommend packing your own source of shade so you can enjoy the outdoors without sitting in full sun. Your RV awning should work nicely for this, but if you don’t have an awning on your RV, a stand-alone canopy can do the same job.

Prepare for Dust

Last but not least, we must mention the dust. The desert is probably the dustiest place you will ever camp, and that dust likes to get into everything.

Put your electronics into cases to protect them. You’ll also want to put out an outdoor rug—as well as a tub of water for rinsing your feet before entering the RV—to try to reduce the amount of dust that gets tracked inside. When you’re finished with your desert camping adventure, make sure to replace the air filters on your vehicle(s) and your generator, as well as your air conditioner filter.

Hopefully, these tips for camping in the desert help you have a safe and wonderful time exploring one of the most beautiful parts of the USA. Now pack up the camper and get ready to make some great memories!

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

~Ralph Playdon ~ “This is my first time using your services and I am blown away.”

Reduce & Remove Mold & Mildew In Your RV

04 Wednesday Oct 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tips & Tricks

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Mold and mildew can form on several RV surfaces such as the roof material, awnings, and exterior sidewalls. It can also be found inside cabinets, around the toilet, and shower stalls. The growth of mold and mildew is primarily influenced by 3 factors: moisture, warmth, and organic materials for them to feed on. It grows by tiny spores that start invisible and typically float through the air land on wet surfaces and then begin to grow and darken.

Here are some common ways mold and mildew can form on the interior of RVs:

High Humidity And Condensation

RVs are often exposed to high humidity levels, especially when used in areas with a lot of moisture, like when near lakes or rivers. The moisture in the air can condense on cool surfaces inside the RV, providing an ideal environment for mold and mildew to grow.

Water Leaks

Leaking roofs, windows, or plumbing can introduce water into the RV’s interior. If not promptly addressed, this moisture can accumulate in hidden areas, such as inside walls or under flooring, and lead to mold growth.

Poor Ventilation

Inadequate ventilation can also trap moisture inside the RV, especially in bathrooms and kitchens where steam and humidity are common. Proper ventilation, like using roof vents and opening windows, can help reduce moisture buildup. This is especially important during storage when condensation can occur with temperature changes.

Tips To Reduce Mold and Mildew On Interior Surfaces

Reduce interior moisture such as wet clothing, cooking, and condensation. Identify what might be adding moisture to the air such as showers, boiling water for cooking, and wet clothes or towels hanging in the bathroom. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry such as shower curtains, and countertops, and don’t leave any items standing around wet such as dishes. Increase airflow with roof vents and fans, and use dehumidifiers such as damp rid or even portable units. Open cabinets and closet doors to allow more air circulation.

This winter I tried a renewable dehumidifier called H2Out in a Thor Challenger and it was outstanding. They have different sizes that cover anywhere from 25 sq ft to 900 sq ft and all you need to do is put them in an oven to dry out the proprietary beads.

We put a couple of the 600 sf models in the bedroom and a couple in the living room with the cabinets open and had no condensation and zero mold!

Exterior Mold

Mold represents a type of fungal growth that adheres to dirt on surfaces, and once it reaches the black stage, eradicating it becomes notably challenging. Furthermore, it has the potential to cause permanent staining on roofing materials, especially rubber membranes. This underscores the significance of not only periodically cleaning rubber membranes like TPO and EPDM but also conditioning them.

Since fiberglass roof material is flat, it is less likely to house dirt, dust, and moisture like the rubber membrane which has pockets and can produce a perfect environment for mold to form.

Preventative Maintenance

Periodically clean the roof with Dawn Dish Soap and water by parking the rig on a slanted driveway for moisture runoff. Make sure the ladder is at the back or high point so you can get down safely when done.

Put a ¼ cup of Dawn in a 5-gallon bucket of water and fill it with warm water. Have someone periodically spray down the sides of the rig so no chalk or dirt from the roof sticks to the sidewall and windows. Using a mop or foam brush on a stick, start at the front spray a 4’ corner with a hose, and mop it down. Rinse it off and move over to the right side. Doing this in 4’ sections and working your way to the back ensures you are always walking on dry material.

Removing Existing Mold

If your roof material already shows signs of mold and mildew buildup, I would first start by cleaning it with Dawn Dish Soap and if it needs more treatment, you can use a variety of products including over-the-counter bathroom products such as Tilex Mold Remover or Mold Armor. For years I have used a ¼ cup of bleach in 5 gallons of water and it has worked very well, however, some people claim bleach is not environmentally friendly and will harm the environment and sewer systems. I have worked with our local Department Of Natural Resources (DNR) and Sanitary District and they stated that 1/4 cup mixed in one gallon of water and then diluted by 15 gallons of water would not affect a septic system. It would need to be 3/4 cup in every gallon to qualify as too powerful a solution.

I have also used Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) found in the paint section of home improvement stores, however, several states have banned this product but I do see TSP alternatives.

Awnings

Another exterior material that can develop mold and mildew is the vinyl and acrylic fabric used in awnings. Once again, the mold is attaching to dirt, dust, and moisture on the material, not the material itself so it is important to periodically clean the awning material as well using the same Dawn Dish Soap. The main culprit when it comes to awnings and mold is rolling the awning up when it is wet, or letting it sit out long enough to develop condensation. Periodically cleaning and letting it dry completely is the best way to prevent mold and mildew on awning fabric.

Remember, keeping your RV mold and mildew-free is not only about maintaining a comfortable and healthy living environment but also ensuring the longevity of your RV’s materials. By taking these preventive measures and addressing issues promptly, you can enjoy your RV adventures with peace of mind and a clean, mold-free space. Happy RVing!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Joan M. ~ “The entire process couldn’t have been more seamless. We have used other roadside programs in the past and none of them have lived up, that’s why we went with Coach-Net! There is no comparison! We absolutely recommend you to everyone!’’

How To Go Beach Camping The Right Way

12 Tuesday Sep 2023

Posted by in RV Safety, The Great Outdoors, Travel Destinations

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Want to give beach camping a try? We can’t say we blame you. Who wouldn’t want to listen to waves lapping the sand from their bedroom, or hitting the sand as soon as you wake up each morning?

All that said, there are some things you should know before you go beach camping. In this article, we will give you our top tips.

Find a Camping Area

The first thing you need to do is find a place to go beach camping. Fortunately, this should be easy enough to do. There are beach campgrounds in pretty much every state that has a coastline, and many of these offer sites with ocean views to boot. If you choose to go this route, your trip will be similar to other RV camping trips, and many of the tips below will not apply.

On a budget? It’s also possible to find free beach camping in certain parts of the US. Texas has a number of dispersed camping areas on the beach, and many national seashores offer free boondocking by the water. That said, you will want to be very cautious if you do choose free camping on the beach, as camping in the wrong place could result in being stuck in sand—or worse, being caught in water at high tide. The tips below will help you avoid these problems.

No matter which kind of beach camping you prefer, you can use Campendium to find awesome spots along the coasts.

Invest in Roadside Assistance

We always recommend getting Coach-Net roadside assistance before any trip. However, we think it’s even more important than usual if you happen to be going beach camping. This is because roadside assistance can help you if you do find yourself stuck in the sand.

Grab Some Solar Panels

Because most beaches don’t have trees, they are perfect for soaking up the sun’s energy. For this reason, we highly recommend installing some solar panels and a good battery bank before you try boondocking on the beach. Don’t want to install an entire solar system on your RV? Even a solar generator will do the job!

Create a Rinsing Station

The amount of sand that can make its way into an RV while you’re beach camping is astounding. To avoid this, set up a rinsing station outside your door with a small tub of water and a portable shower. If you happen to have an outdoor shower near the front door, that will work even better.

Know How to Drive on Sand

One of the most important things to know before beach camping directly on the sand? How to drive on that sand. When you don’t know what you’re doing, it can be very, very easy to get yourself stuck in the beach sand.

To avoid this, let a small amount of air out of your tires before you hit the beach (and carry an air compressor to air them back up after). Before you drive onto the sand, walk the path you plan to take to ensure there are no soft areas.

If you do get stuck, don’t spin your tires. Instead, get out, dig your tires out as much as possible, pour water on the sand around the tires, pack it down a bit, and use traction boards to give yourself something to drive onto. If this doesn’t work, a tow-out might be your only option.

Look Out for High Tide

The other important thing to keep in mind when beach camping? The tide. You definitely don’t want to get caught in the way of the tide, so be sure to ask a lifeguard, ranger, or other person in the know where you can park safely, even when the tide is in. Parking near other RVs is typically a safe bet.

If the tide starts to get close to your rig, get out as soon as possible. The water moves in quickly, so you won’t have a lot of time.

With these tips and a bit of common sense, you should be able to safely try your hand at beach camping. Still don’t feel great about parking on the sand? Choose a beach campground instead. This will give you the beach camping experience without all the hassle.

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Micheal P. ~ “My wife and I are glad we signed up with Coach-Net. Everyone made us feel important and special! The service was outstanding all around. Thank you again for making us feel valuable, and resolving our problem with a sense of urgency.”

Can Your Hitch Handle Your RV?

02 Wednesday Aug 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Whether you are driving a motorized and towing a car (toad) behind, or in a truck or car pulling a travel trailer commonly referred to as “bumper pull” it is important to inspect your hitch every time you go on a trip and even look at the traditional method of hooking up. It may not be the best or safest way!

I have worked with several hitch manufacturers over the years producing how-to videos and even helped develop the RV Safety & Education Foundation’s (RVSEF) safety training program for years the procedure to properly connect a toad or bumper pull has been to connect the trailer or tow bar hitch to the ball on the tow vehicle, cross the safety chains underneath and connect them to the round connection on each side of the hitch, and connect the breakaway cable to some portion on the hitch, not the safety cable.

This is a typical hitch with a receiver tube and safety cable connection. Notice the round opening for the safety chains and breakaway cable are connected to the hitch.

Most often when a trailer disconnects from the hitch, the trailer coupler comes off the ball so the safety chains would help cradle the trailer coupler and tongue. This would also be the case if the bar of the ball mount broke.

However, since the hitch is typically welded to the bumper frame or cross member what happens if the entire hitch assembly were to break off? I had a recent reader from RV Travel.com send a question about how does an owner check the weld of a hitch? Good question as most are almost impossible to see. Here is what caused her to ask the question.

The entire hitch assembly broke away from the bar it was welded to so the safety chains and breakaway cable went with it and the entire toad zig-zagged back and forth until it came to a rest on the side of the interstate. Luckily nobody was hurt and there was limited damage.

This is the hitch and as you can see the rings for the safety chains and the breakaway cable are connected to the component. And notice from the previous photo, they were not towing anywhere near their maximum towing capacity with a little Fiat.

There are three things to be learned from this.

1. Have your hitch periodically checked by someone that can crawl underneath or can lift the unit on a hoist and inspect every aspect of the welds or bolts. Any hairline cracks need to be attended to immediately. I do not know if this could have been detected, but most of us take our hitches for granted.

2. Attach additional connecting points for your safety chains and breakaway cable to a solid portion of the chassis or tow vehicle.  You can purchase aftermarket safety chain brackets from Etrailer or other supplies that can be welded or bolted to a solid chassis component. You can also attach the breakaway cable there as well. If you don’t have a remote bracket, at least mount the breakaway cable to something other than the hitch.

3. Install an auxiliary braking system in your towed vehicle. Most trailers come with electric trailer brakes. Inspect them often and test them on gravel to make sure they are working. If you have a motorized RV pulling a car or truck, anything over 1,500 lbs should have an auxiliary braking system such as the Blue Ox Patriot or Roadmaster Invisbrake. Each state has its own Road Use Laws and some require brakes on anything over 3,000 lbs, others at 1,500, and some are mandatory on anything towed. An auxiliary braking system will not only help slow down the momentum of the towed vehicle but will also reduce the stress of a sudden stop on the hitch assembly which would put undue stress on the hitch connection and cause this to happen.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Terry P. ~ “As a proud member of Coach-Net, I can’t praise their service enough! The call agents were so friendly and went above and beyond to provide the help we needed. My wife, our adorable cat, and I are full-time RVers who love to travel and explore. We’ve even trained our cat to walk on a leash!

Recently, we encountered an issue with our fireplace – the breaker kept tripping, and the breaker box was getting way too hot. Worried about our safety, we immediately contacted Coach-Net for assistance. They swiftly found a nearby service location for us. The technician they connected us with was highly knowledgeable and thorough. He not only helped locate a professional to fix the fireplace but also patiently tackled multiple other issues we faced during the process.

Coming from an experience with other providers in the past, I must say Coach-Net truly exceeded my expectations. Their approach to customer service was exceptional. They recognized that I had some electrical expertise and adjusted their communication accordingly, ensuring we worked together seamlessly to get everything fixed. It was an absolute pleasure dealing with them! I can’t recommend them enough – their dedication to providing top-notch assistance and going the extra mile is truly commendable. If you’re an RVer like us, trust me, Coach-Net is the way to go!’’