Category Archives: Tips & Tricks

Tips for Finding and Using FREE Campgrounds With Hookups

21 Wednesday Jul 2021

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Last year, during our travels through the middle of the country, we discovered an amazing thing: free campgrounds. And not just your typical dry camping sites in a government owned park, either—I’m talking about campgrounds with water and electric hookups and often even a dump station onsite! This was a game changer.

You see, we’ve done a bit of boondocking here and there, and we have plenty more boondocking stops planned for the next couple of weeks. That said, it isn’t our favorite way of exploring. We normally use Thousand Trails campgrounds to keep costs low, but when we’re not near these campgrounds, we need other options that don’t cost an arm and a leg. These free campgrounds with hookups fill that role perfectly.

In this article we will talk about how to find free (and incredibly low-cost) camping with hookups, and then give you some tips for using these campsites.

What to Expect from Free and Low-Cost Campgrounds with Hookups

Generally, free campgrounds with hookups are located in city parks, but some can be found at casinos, county parks, and other locations. The rules vary from one park to the next, but many ask for a donation in exchange for your stay, and all the places we’ve visited limit your stay to a certain number of days. These seem like reasonable requests, considering the awesome thing that is being offered.

In some cases, we will find city parks or county park campgrounds that aren’t totally free, but are under $15 a night. I still consider this an incredible deal, and we will often use these parks as well. The rules and amenities at these places tend to be very similar to those found at free campgrounds.

Most of these low-cost campgrounds have a donation box available, in which you place your gift or camping fees. However, we have come across some places that require you to check in at the city hall, sheriff’s office, or even a local museum.

We’ve found free and low-cost campgrounds that are electric-only with nothing but a field of grass to park on. We’ve also found parks that offer full hookups (water, sewer, and electric) and concrete pads. Most have electric and water at each site and a dump station somewhere in the park or the town. Many are near the local pool, and the majority have a playground very close by. Once in a while we will come across a free campground with showers for RVers.

Every free or cheap campground we’ve ever found has been located in a small town, if not in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes the town might have something to do, or it might be 30–45 minutes from a big city. Other times, there isn’t much in the way of attractions for miles around.

Where to Find Free and Low-Cost Campgrounds with Hookups

Wondering how one might go about finding a place to stay for free (or almost free)? We usually use the website called FreeCampsites.net. As the name suggests, this site is dedicated to listing free campsites. It also includes low-cost campgrounds.

In order to find the campgrounds with hookups, I will filter my search to find only the campgrounds with the hookups I need. That said, sometimes a particular amenity may not be included in the listing, so if I’m having trouble finding what I need in a particular area, it does sometimes help to read reviews in case the thing I’m looking for isn’t listed properly.

Once I find something that looks like what I need, I don’t stop there. I dive deeper, reading all of the reviews on FreeCampites.net and then seeking out yet more reviews on other sites. I’ll also look for information about a given campground on its city website. This helps to ensure the campground is still in existence and as listed.

Besides FreeCampsites.net, there are other ways to find free and low-cost campgrounds. Some of the options we know if include:

  • Campendium — This works much like FreeCampsites.net and is often where I’ll turn second.
  • RoamFreely — This is an app that also works like FreeCampsites.net. It has some campgrounds listed that aren’t on either of the websites mentioned above, but it’s missing several as well.
  • Keeping your eyes peeled — Another great option is to keep an eye out for campsites that look like they might be a part of a city park or a casino. This works well if you take backroads often or enjoy visiting small towns. If you find some, stop and check. If it is indeed a free of low-cost place to stay, be sure to list it on Campendium and FreeCampsites.net.
  • Asking around — Finally, it never hurts to ask others about campsites they know of. Ask other RVers on Facebook groups and forums, or ask locals if they know of any great and inexpensive places to camp. You might be surprised at the hidden gems you can find.

Tips for Using Low-Cost Campgrounds

At this point, we’ve stayed in our fair share of these free and super cheap campgrounds. Along the way, we’ve learned a thing or two that help make our trips to these places a bit more enjoyable.

These are our top tips:

  • Arrive early — We are definitely not early risers. However, we have found that when it comes to free and cheap campsites, it pays to arrive as early as possible in order to snag a site.
  • Shower at the pool — As mentioned before, most of these campgrounds do not have showers for RVers. They also don’t tend to have sewer hookups at each site, making it necessary to conserve tank space. We’ve learned that the showers at the city pools are a great way to get clean and tend to be very low-cost.
  • Explore small towns — You might be far away from any true attractions, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing worth seeing nearby. Go into town and try the local coffee shop and eateries. Some of our favorites have been in tiny towns.
  • Look for historic markers — Even in the middle of nowhere with no true attractions around, you will see historic markers. Make a point of looking for these and stopping to check them out.
  • Be willing to drive to attractions — If you’re looking to visit a particular attraction or city, you might be able to find free camping as long as you’re willing to camp 45 minutes away.
  • Find campgrounds along your route — Even if there isn’t a free campground close to your final destination, there could be some along your route. Since we don’t like to drive more than 3 or 4 hours in a day, these campgrounds can be a great way to break up a long trip.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

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5 RV Air Conditioner Tips for Summer Camping

03 Thursday Jun 2021

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RV camping is awesome because it allows you to get out into nature while still staying comfortable. No matter where you go, you’ll have your bed, a bathroom, and even a kitchen in tow. Not only that, you’ll also have a furnace for when it gets cold—and for those hot summer months that are just around the corner, an air conditioner. That’s what we’re going to be talking about today.

For the most part, using your RV air conditioner is pretty straightforward. Turn it on, adjust the thermostat if you have one, and let it do its thing. That said, there are some things you should know about RV air conditioners before you set out on your first summer camping trip. Knowing these things will help you keep your RV A/C in tip-top shape for years to come.

Check the Shroud

If you look at your air conditioner from the outside of the rig, the first thing you’ll see is not the A/C itself, but the plastic shroud that goes over it. Many people believe these shrouds are just for looks, but this isn’t the case at all. These covers actually do the very important job of keeping dirt and debris out of the A/C. Since a dirty air conditioner won’t work well, you definitely want your shroud to be in good shape.

The unfortunate thing is that because these A/C covers are plastic, the hot sun often causes them to become brittle. Once this happens, something as simple as camping in high winds or driving under low-hanging branches can break the shroud.

For this reason, we recommend visually inspecting your RV A/C cover at least a couple times a year to ensure it’s still doing its job well.

Care for the Coils

If you remove the A/C shroud, you’ll notice a set of metal coils on the air conditioner. These coils must be clean and straight in order to work effectively. Unfortunately, fine dust can sneak through the cover, creating a dirty coating on the coils. Additionally, the coils can very easily become bent out of shape.

To combat these problems and keep your A/C up and running, you will want to inspect the coils a couple of times a year. You can gently vacuum them, spray them clean with a spray bottle of water with a few drops of mild soap, and straighten the coils carefully with a fin comb when necessary.

Clean the Filter

If you head inside your RV and look up at the A/C unit, you’ll notice a removable plastic cover. Just inside this cover, at the air intake, is an air conditioner filter that can become quite dirty quite fast.

Obviously, if your filter is dirty enough to block airflow, the A/C unit won’t be able to function properly. It’s incredibly important that you clean or replace your air conditioner filter at least once every 6 months, and even more often if you use the A/C on a regular basis.

These filters can be washed in warm water with gentle soap a few times before they must be replaced by a new filter. If you can’t find a filter in the correct size when it does come time to replace it, you can purchase a larger filter and simply cut it to size.

Park in the Shade

RVs aren’t the most well insulated things in the world, and a small RV air conditioner has to work hard to lower the temperature even just 10 or 15 degrees. In fact, no RV A/C is made to lower the room temperature more than 16 degrees below the outside temperature.

With this in mind, it’s in your best interest to park in the shade if you can, where the temperature can be as much as 20 degrees lower than if the rig was parked in full sunlight. This will help keep your home-on-wheels as cool as possible without overworking your air conditioner.

Ensure You Have Enough Power

Finally, it is very important that you ensure you have enough power before running your A/C.

An air conditioner compressor requires quite a lot of power as it kicks on (after which it drops off a bit), and attempting to go through this process while plugged into a 15- or 20-amp outlet will eventually hurt your compressor and can be a fire hazard. The same can be said of attempting to start two A/C units simultaneously when plugged into 30-amp electric.

Instead, the two units should be started at different times, so they aren’t both drawing the max amount of electricity at the same time.

If you often find yourself in situations that require you to run your air conditioner when plugged into 20 amps or when using a smaller generator, you might consider investing in a “soft start” upgrade that makes this power draw more gradual rather than letting it happen all at once.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

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Generator Care And Maintenance

05 Wednesday May 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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The famous line from Star Trek’s “Scotty” while in the engine room was: “Captain, we need more dilithiam crystals!”  In other words, more power and it seems like that’s the case with today’s RVers as we are all trying to get the most out of every appliance we can get our hands on!

Ok, maybe not everyone, however a generator is an important component to not only help run appliances, but also charge the house batteries when dry camping or boondocking.  For the most part, generators require a limited amount of maintenance, however there are some things you need to know to make sure they provide the power you need and run as long as you need them to.  In this article we will cover permanently mounted or onboard generators.

Types of generators and their maintenance requirements:

Gasoline

Typically in a motorized RV, these generators are permanently mounted with rubberized motor mounts to the frame, although some are used in Toy Haulers as the fuel for these needs to be supplied by an onboard fuel source such as the gasoline tank.

Sizes can range from smaller 2000 watt versions, that have limited power, to the large 7000 watt version shown here that has enough power to make “Scotty” happy!

Gasoline fuel generators can use regular unleaded or an Ethanol Blend not to exceed 10% Ethanol.  The key is to use fresh gas, nothing older than 30 days, which is why it’s a good idea to run the tank low before refilling prior to storage. 

Larger generators (5000 watts and higher) have two circuit breakers on the generator itself, one that supplies 30 amp power to the distribution center, and a 20 amp breaker that is connected directly to the bedroom air conditioner if applicable. This allows you to run both roof airs with the front supplied by the distribution center and the back by the direct line on the generator.

Recommended maintenance includes changing oil as well as the oil and air filters.

Whether putting your RV to bed for a long while, or just getting it ready for an extended siesta, it’s important to take a little time preparing your generator for an extended period of rest by following these steps:

Step One – Fuel Recommendations

The first step is to make sure your fuel tank is full before letting it sit for anything longer than 30 days.  A partially full fuel tank allows condensation to form inside the tank which not only adds water to the mix, but can also lead to rust forming and causing all kinds of issues.  Most seasoned RVers calculate their storage/winterizing schedule and let the fuel tank get low prior to storage so they can fill it with the proper fresh fuel before storing. 

Step Two – Stabilize The Fuel Supply

Any fuel will deteriorate as it sits in an engine or fuel tank for a period of time, usually as quick as 30 days.  Gasoline will start to varnish producing a gummy residue that clogs the carburetor, fuel filter, and fuel pump and affects performance.  Unlike engine performance or fuel economy, the octane level or grade of fuel has little effect on the time factor of this fuel deterioration.  Diesel fuel does not deteriorate and produce varnish like gasoline, however it can suffer biological growth (algae) and gel in cold weather which will also affect engine performance. 

It is recommended to use a quality fuel preservative and stabilizer with either diesel or gasoline models.  There are several brands on the market with most of the popular diesel stabilizers available at the major truck stops.  Onan recommends OnaFresh fuel preservative and stabilizer. 

Keep in mind, once a fuel starts to deteriorate and varnish is present in the generator, a preservative and stabilizer will not restore the fuel.  At this point you will need to try a fuel system cleaner or disassemble the generator components and clean/remove the contaminants. 

Step Three – Run The Unit

Run the unit under load for at least 30 minutes.  The Onan owner’s manual recommends 30 minutes plus 2 minutes for each foot of fuel line to ensure the stabilizer makes it way through all the lines and engine components.  Other Onan service documents recommend running for 1-2 hours.  Running the unit for 1 hour should be sufficient and make sure you have something on the inside that will provide a load to the generator like the roof air units or plugging in an appliance like a space heater.

Step Four – Change The Oil And Filter

After running the unit, it’s recommended to change the oil and filter prior to storage.  This prevents acids from accumulating which could corrode bearings inside the engine.  It’s important to use the manufacturers original parts for oil filters and recommended oil.  Generic or replacement parts commonly referred to as “will-fit” parts are built for cost, not quality.  These parts often times have inferior materials used for filtering, sealing, and longevity which could cause expensive failures. 

Onan has blended their own specific oil branded as OnaMax, however they do allow other brands under warranty as long as they meet the following specifications:

– Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy.

Check your owner’s manual for weight or viscosity according to your genset and temperatures.

Step Five– Gasoline Engine Fogging

If you own a gasoline fueled RV generator it’s recommended to remove the spark plug and spray Onan’s OnaGard fogging spray to reduce rust and condensation in the cylinder.

Step Six – Check Connections

Make sure all cables, wires, and other connections are tight and protected.  You may need to clean battery cable connections and lubricate linkage points.

Step Seven – Disconnect The Battery

It’s a good idea to disconnect the ground terminal to the generator to eliminate any battery drain or accidental surge back from the house system if the unit is plugged in for storage.

Onan also recommends running the generator once a month for at least 30 minutes under 50% load to reduce the gasoline deterioration and varnish and keep the seals softened in the diesel and LP units.  In some situations this is not possible, so it’s important to take the necessary steps to clean, protect, and stabilize the fuel source to make sure your generator performs well for years to come.

Liquid Propane/LP

Propane fueled generators are not as common as gas or diesel since LP is a very precious commodity when dry camping or boondocking which is when you need a generator!  Some diesel pusher owners choose the LP genset as it originally ran quieter and did not have the smell of the diesel fumes; however, for the most part this has not been a factor with the newer diesel genset models.  Some trailer owners use this model as they do not have a gas tank other than the tow vehicle which they can not tap into and want a permanently mounted unit.

Propane generators do require a similar oil and filter change maintenance schedule and Onan has the following recommendation for the proper fuel:

— Use clean, HD-5 grade liquid propane in a mixture of at least 90% propane. Propane fuels other than HD-5 can contain more than 2.5 percent butane which can result in poor fuel vaporization and poor engine starting in outside temperatures below 32°F.

Propane generators are not as subject to the varnish issue that gasoline models are, however it is a good idea to run the generator periodically to lubricate the seals and gaskets.  Onan recommends running it for 30 minutes 2-3 times yearly.

Diesel Generator

The diesel generator has come a long way since I took to the road training dealers back in the mid 1990’s. OK I admit, most things have come a long way since that time!  Back then there were only 4 Rocky films and only 3 Star Wars films!

This unit is fueled by the chassis fuel tank just like the gas version and has the same maintenance schedule as the gas and propane with just a couple of additional items to be aware of.

Ensure the fuel selected for use has a minimum Cetane number of 45. No. 2-D or No.2-DLS diesel fuel gives the best economy and performance under most operating conditions. Use No. 1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 32°F and during long periods of light engine load. Use low sulfur or ultra low sulfur content fuel having a cloud point of at least 10°F below the lowest expected fuel temperature. Cloud point is the temperature at which wax crystals begin to form in diesel fuel.

Onan does have some recommendations for fuel type:

— Use any of the following ASTM certified fuels for your quiet diesel:

  • ASTM-No.2-D (ambient temperature greater than 23°F) (No. 2 Diesel)
  • or ASTM-1-D (No. 1 Diesel)
  • No.2-DLS (ambient temperature greater than 23°F)
  • No.1-D (ambient temperature less than 23°F)
  • No.1-DLS (ambient temperature less than 23°F)
  • B5 Biodiesel(ambient temperature greater than 50°F)

B20 Biodiesel

− The use of B20 biodiesel requires the generator to have an additional fuel/water separator. Long-term storage of biodiesel fuels can result in oxidation and/or mold growth. Consult your vehicle manufacturer and your generator owner’s manual to see if this option is applicable to your generator.

– Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: CF, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 or CJ-4 where CJ-4 is currently the highest quality available. The use of synthetic oil is not recommended during the warranty period. The use of oil meeting API performance category CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 or CI-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.5% or CJ-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.0015% is not recommended as oil service is negatively impacted.

Check your generator owner’s manual for recommended weight/viscosity for temperatures.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Top Ten Camp Cooking Gadgets

07 Wednesday Apr 2021

Posted by in Tips & Tricks

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In the massive world of RVing, “cooking” can mean something different to everyone. But we are going to tackle it anyway and give my Top Ten and a few honorable mentions.  Hopefully this will open up a huge list of comments on what your favorites are.  Keep in mind there is no scientific data or NASA algorithms to back up this list.  I must confess, my first attempt at spelling algorithms looked like Al Goreisms!  Thank goodness for spill chick. 

In other words, cooking while RVing can be as simple as freeze-dried packets for the die-hard boondockers, or a 4-course meal prepared in a luxury motorcoach.  This blog will take a middle-of-the-road approach and focus on campfire cooking and outdoor grill items.

#1 – The Heat Source – Campfire, Grill, or Portable Stove

Ok, a campfire is not technically a “gadget” but, in my opinion, your heat source is the most important.  In an RV you have limited space to bring your Big Green Egg, however there are some smaller alternatives to grills and portable stoves, such as the Traeger or Green Mountain Grill wood pellet table top models and the Coleman Roadtrip, which operates on propane. 

My folks carried a small Weber charcoal grill all over the country for years, even to Alaska!  The challenge was finding charcoal but they used wood more often. 

If you are a campfire fan like I am, your #1 gadget is the type of cooking surface works for you. 

Many campgrounds have a fire pit with a grate already available.  If not, there are several options such as the tripod that hangs a slotted grate over the fire or folding grate.  Die-hard campfire enthusiasts will bury tinfoil pouches of delicacies such as cherry pie or everything potatoes, into the red hot embers.  You can even place a coffee pot or cast iron skillet directly on the campfire, however it’s difficult to adjust or monitor the heat. 

1.01 – Honorable Mention

If you are using a campfire or grill, you can enhance the flavor of whatever you are cooking by bringing wood chips or even grilling pellets to add to the heat source.  Most campgrounds do not allow bringing your own firewood, you are stuck with using what they want to sell you and it’s usually not top grade material.  You can bring wood chips or even the pellets that will give your cooking the fire source and flavor you want!

#2 – Cast Iron Skillet

This has been my “go-to” cooking pan for over 50 years!  My mother had one that was passed down from her grandmother that she made Spanish rice in two or three times a week. You can cook almost anything in a cast iron, from traditional food such as hamburgers, steak, fish, and omelets, but can also use it for pizza, popcorn, and even deep-fat frying with the likes of battered food such as hush puppies, fish, and other items.  If you get a deep sided version, it can double as a Dutch Oven. 

Here is a little cleaning tip I learned over the years.  Spread a little olive oil on the pan while it’s warm then sprinkle coarse sea salt on the pan.  Use a paper towel to scrub the pan and it will not only clean it, but condition it as well. 

#3 – Cooking Gloves

These are excellent for not only campfire cooking, but grill cooking as well.  These are heat resistant, and cut resistant.  You can hold meat and turn it over, cut it, and the food grade silicone also grips well so nothing will slip out of your hands.  They are easy to clean and take up little storage space.

#4 – Something to Make S’mores With

Whether it’s a long stick whittled to a sharp point, or a fancy 3-4 pronged telescoping rod, you definitely need something to roast the marshmallow either golden brown or burnt crisp depending on your preference. 

#5 – Coffee Pot

There is nothing like the taste of hot coffee coming off a campfire and there are many coffee pots that will work.  My favorite for many years was an old Pyrex glass percolator model that made the best coffee anywhere.  However it broke in a storage compartment one winter as we drove to Colorado and did not remember it was there.  I have searched and can not find a replacement…yet!  In the meantime, there are some close runner ups such as the French press.

This model has a metal base so it can be set on a campfire, others have a plastic bottom that only allow hot water to be poured in the top.  Be careful!  Another popular model is the stainless steel or even enameled version.  Plus these will not break!

#6 – Egg Container

Scrambled eggs, omelets, even fish fry batter are all staples of our camping trip, however with the abuse of a road trip, especially if we go off the “beaten” path (pun intended), the standard egg carton will have everything scrambled before we get there.  This handy plastic carton keeps them eggstra safe.  Sorry!

#7 – Insulated Mug

This is my “go-to” mug as it will keep coffee hot for over 4 hours and will keep ice beverage cold for the same amount of time.  However I seldom have a cold beverage last much longer than an hour! 

#8 – Insulated Cooler

Of course every RVer has a favorite cooler like the Yeti, Grizzly, and others.  I got this cooler years ago working at Winnebago when we did a camping shoot with Nashville. It has been my favorite for over 30 years.  It not only keeps things cold for a long period of time, but the soft side design makes it easier to pack and lightweight to carry.

#9 – Time Saver Dispensers

When the granddaughters were little and would go camping with us, they always wanted pancakes, sometimes for every meal!  With limited storage space, we decided to get creative and started prepping some common food items at home before heading out.  Not only did it save space and time, but clean up is always easier at home…besides who wants to waste time prepping and cleaning when you are camping?  So we filled empty ketchup bottles, dressing, and other items with premade pancake batter, scrambled eggs, and other items for a quick squirt in the morning.

9.01 – Honorable Mention – Vacuum Sealer Machine

When at home, every Sunday night, we would have a “Family Dinner” and my wife would cook the greatest meals ever made.  She did this every other night as well, but these were special.  When we set out RVing, she did not want to spend the hours chopping, sautéing, and whatever magic she did in our huge kitchen at home.  I agreed, we are recreating right?  But we also did not want to settle for store bought frozen meals either.  So we bought a vacuum sealer and make as many prepped meals and typically freeze them either in the small refrigerator freezer or bring a cooler.  They will stay fresh frozen for weeks and we can have gourmet dinners every night.

#10 – Plates and Containers

Since there is limited storage in most RVs you can’t take every plate, spice, and cooking utensil with you.  We have gotten creative with spices either using a divided spice container, or a simple, open plastic container (below), which allows us to bring a smaller version of our favorites.

Also, “nesting” pots and pans that can sit inside each other as well as plates.  And speaking of plates, we have come across a couple of brands of paper plates that are compostable, meaning you don’t have to fill up the landfill!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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How and Why to Install an External Propane Kit on your Motorhome

29 Monday Mar 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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There are many reasons to choose one type of RV over another. People that opt for a motorhome may do so because they offer many convenient features. An auto-leveling system, climate control while driving, and a built-in generator are all pros of getting a motorhome. One drawback to owning a motorhome RVers can quickly discover is that the propane tank is not removable. Instead of detaching the propane tank and taking it to the closest Tractor Supply to fill, you must drive the entire motorhome there.

For those camping in colder locations or wishing to stay in one place for several weeks, it can be a pain to have to move the whole motorhome every time the propane runs low. Fortunately, there is a product for that. External propane kits are easy to install and readily available. They not only give you the ability to hook up external propane tanks to your motorhome, but some also have ports that allow for you to hook up gas grills, so you don’t have to go through those disposable 1lb bottles.

How does it work?

Camco Propane Brass 4 Port Tee- Comes with 5ft and 12ft Hoses listed on Amazon.

The main component of a propane kit is the brass tee. It is called a tee because it allows propane from your main tank to flow to your propane regulator in a straight line but has a port in the middle that you can fit a hose to making a “T” shape. Most models will have a one-way valve either in the tee itself or the external propane hose. This valve allows propane to flow from the external tank but not the other direction.

Where do you get one?

Most RV parts stores will carry them, and you can order them online from places like Amazon or Walmart. You can purchase just the tee for about $40 or the entire kit with hoses at $60 to $80. From personal experience, I have found that the 5’ hose (that comes with most of these kits) is a little short. Sometimes I want the tanks on the opposite side of the RV. For that reason, I have opted to purchase a 12’ propane hose.

Camco 59035 12′ Propane Supply Hose

How do you install it?

This is the regulator attached to the motorhome propane tank. Notice the notches on the screw. That means it’s threaded backward.

The first step to installing a brass tee is to make sure your propane is off. Once the propane is off, you will want to disconnect the regulator of the propane tank. Keep in mind that a POL propane connector is threaded backward. Instead of “righty tighty, lefty loosey,” it’s the opposite of that.

This is the regulator removed from the main tank.

Next, you will want to remove the regulator from the main tank output. The brass tee will go in between the regulator and the tank. It is vital for the proper function that the tee be installed before the regulator. If it is somehow installed downline from it, your propane system won’t function and could pose a hazard because the external tank pressure will not be regulated when it does through the system.

Screw the brass tee into the tank, and then screw the regulator into the tee. You may have noticed the fittings have O-rings on them and therefore do not need any thread seal tape.

I used a ⅞ wrench to screw the regulator into the brass tee.

The last steps are to attach the propane hose and then screw the hose onto a propane tank. It’s important to note that though there are no O-rings, the fitting here is a flair fitting. It is designed to seal without thread seal tape.

Here is the hose connected. You may notice the thread seal tape at the top, but where the hose connects, there isn’t any.

Connect the other end of the hose to a propane tank.

Once everything is connected, keep the motorhome propane tank off and turn on the external tank. It may be a good idea to check for leaks at this time. Many people use soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it over all the connections. If you see bubbles coming out, there is a leak.

They also make propane leak detector spray that claims to be non-corrosive. Some customers say that it works better. I use the leak detector spray because it’s in a convenient bottle, it’s about $5, and it can last several years. It works the same way, spray it on all connections and see if there are any bubbles.

Camco 10324 Gas Leak Detector with Sprayer – 8 oz – from Amazon

Once you have tested for leaks, try the stove. It can take a moment for the stove to light if there is any air in the lines. If you would like to see a video demonstration on installing a brass tee, check out the video below.

Any more tips?

When you move the propane regulator over, you may find that it no longer fits and hangs over the shelf. If that’s the case, you may want to find a way to elongate the shelf to keep road debris out of the regulator.

There are many ways to do this, but I went to Home Depot and found a couple of metal plates that I could bolt onto the existing shelf to extend it. If you plan on removing the brass tee before moving the rig, you won’t have to do this, but if you leave it on, you will want to protect the regulator.

Here are the two overlapping Simpson Strong-Tie TP 3-1/8 in. x 7 in. 20-Gauge Galvanized Tie Plates I used to extend the platform that the regulator sits on.

The next tip is one of safety. Propane can be dangerous to work with, and if you don’t feel comfortable installing this yourself, it should be easy to get an RV tech to do it for you. Always keep propane safety in mind.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Rosafort M. ~ “I’m so happy we chose Coach-Net’s roadside assistance. This was our first camping trip ever and we got a flat tire which was very scary! So we called Coach-Net & the problem was solved within the hour! It makes us feel much more comfortable knowing we have you on our side!”

Kitchen Interior Design Ideas For Your RV

16 Tuesday Mar 2021

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Kitchen Interior Design Ideas For Your RV

11% of households in America own an RV, and over 25 million people go on vacation in one every year. When you own your RV, it means that you can change the interior design to suit your needs and your lifestyle. RV kitchen interior designs don’t have to be basic, and there are plenty of ways you can bring a touch of class to your RV. It is a good idea, however, to pick a stylistic theme for your décor in order to give your RV a unique character. Whether you go for shabby chic, industrial, arts and crafts, or even Hollywood glam, with a few changes, you can make your RV kitchen a special place that you will love spending time in. 

Update Your Kitchen Cabinets

Often sitting at eye level, your kitchen cabinets are one of the first things you notice when you walk in. It is worth getting cabinets updated – you don’t need to change the actual cupboards if they are in good repair: you can simply change the doors or give them a coat of varnish or paint. This will give a modern, luxury feel to your RV. Glossy paint is perfect if you are looking to give your RV a sleek, industrial look – you can go for bright, bold colors, or even a statement print. Sanding down your doors to bare wood can give your cabinets a natural feel, or you can use chalk paints if you are going for a bohemian style. If the kitchen cabinets in your RV are made from chipboard, you might want to think about replacing the doors for something more hardwearing, such as solid wood to give your RV kitchen a luxury feel. 

Replacing The Kitchen Worktop

Replacing or treating the worktop in your kitchen is another good way of giving it an update without ripping the entire kitchen out. You will need to be extra careful when you’re removing the worktop, and keep a note of the types of screws that are used to attach it. There are different screws for different purposes, and the ones needed to hold a worktop up will be heavy-duty. You don’t have to replace your kitchen worktop with Formica – using different materials will give your kitchen a luxury feel. You can go for bamboo, stainless steel, a natural tree slice, or even reclaimed wood. Just make sure that your kitchen worktop is varnished and treated if necessary so that it is functional as well as beautiful. 

A Tile Backsplash

A tile backsplash is an excellent way of adding color and character to your RV kitchen. You can choose something that ties in with your theme and color palette. Regular ceramic tiles are an easy way to create a backsplash, or you could create a mosaic from broken ceramic tiles for a rustic look. Pebbles and sea-glass are other good materials to make a mosaic from – just make sure that you measure your space carefully before you begin applying materials, or create your mosaic on a separate panel. Thin slices of wooden logs that have been oiled or waxed can be placed on the walls for a natural look. You could also make an effective backsplash using thin branches or bamboo affixed to the wall, either horizontally or vertically. Another good idea is to have a Perspex backsplash made up using photos that are treasured, perhaps of friends or family. 

The kitchen is the heart of your RV and can be a real statement area. Choose a theme for your kitchen, and you’ll be sure to have a space that is unique and stylish. 

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7 Tips For Saving Money While RVing

09 Tuesday Mar 2021

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There are many reasons to hit the road full-time. Most do it for the adventure. Some go full-time to give minimalism a try. Meanwhile, there are a few out there who decide to move into an RV in order to save money.

Many may say it isn’t possible to travel full-time and save money, but I know from experience that with careful planning, it is 100% possible. Not only that, it is quite possibly the most fun way to live on a budget!

So what’s the trick to it? Well, there are several tricks to RVing full-time on a budget. Below are my top tips for saving money while RVing full-time.

Camp For Less

My first and most important tip is to find ways to save on camping costs. This is actually easier than you might think.

First, be sure to invest in at least one camping membership or pass. We have and can definitely recommend Thousand Trails, Passport America, and Boondockers Welcome. However, there are several others out there that might be a better fit for you, so do your research.

Another way to save on camping is by taking advantage of free boondocking locations and even full-blown campgrounds all over the country. I like to find these on freecampsites.net.

More information on saving money on camping fees can be found here.

Use GasBuddy

If you need to save money on gas, GasBuddy is your friend. This tool is available in app form, making it super easy to check gas prices in whatever area you find yourself in. This way you can head to the gas station with the cheapest gas every single time, something that could save you quite a bit over time.

Look Into TSD Logistics

For those who drive diesel trucks or RVs, there is also the option of TSD Logistics. This super cool program saves members money on diesel fuel at certain truck stops all over the country. It’s a pretty significant savings, and though we don’t own any diesel vehicles ourselves, we feel comfortable recommending it based on the fact that many friends of ours use the service and love it.

Cut Back on Propane Usage

Honestly, propane isn’t too terribly expensive. That said, if you use it to run your furnace all the time, you’re going to blow through it pretty quick.

Cut back on propane usage by opting to use electric appliances such as electric space heaters, electric cooking appliances, and (if you have it) the electric side of your water heater. whenever possible.

This is especially good advice if the park you’re in includes electricity in your camping fees.

Buy Reciprocal Memberships

Traveling without seeing any of the sights is no fun. At the same time, sightseeing can get pricey pretty quickly. You can, of course, look for free attractions and discount days, but these options will only get you so far. This is where reciprocal memberships come into play.

At any given time, our family has at least 2 or 3 reciprocal memberships. These give us admission to national parks, museums, zoos, aquariums, theme parks, and other attractions. To learn more about reciprocal memberships, check out this post.

Meal Plan

There is also food to consider. Clearly, you are going to need to buy food no matter where you live. That said, when you’re traveling often and out sightseeing on a regular basis, it can be really tempting to eat out—a habit that can be incredibly expensive.

To avoid this problem, you have to plan ahead. Pack sandwiches for lunch, and start a soup in the slow cooker so that dinner is ready as soon as you get home. If you have other options for food, you are much less likely to indulge in food from a restaurant.

Purchase Roadside Assistance

My final tip is to make sure you purchase good RV-specific roadside assistance before taking your first trip. Coach-Net is my absolute favorite option for this. We’ve used the service a number of times, and every single time we do it saves us a boatload of money, making our Coach-Net membership an excellent investment that easily pays for itself.

Have a money-saving tip you’d like to share? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below!

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

RV ProtectGrimshaw Y. ~ “Coach-Net has always shown exceptional service in all levels of customer service. We have received the utmost service from the call person who works over the telephone to the gentleman who comes to give us roadside assistance. They keep us well informed and certainly ease our stress when our vehicle/RV is in need of repairs. I am always praising your company!”

4 Upgrades for a Truck Camper

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

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4 Upgrades for a Truck Camper

Source – i.pinimg.com

Whether your truck camper is the latest model on the market or a great buy you snagged from an ad, brand-new or used, your RV isn’t quite ready for camping mode until you’ve made some tweaks to meet your travel needs. Those modifications can be as simple as mounting a few command hooks for additional storage or more involved projects like installing a new solar power system.

There are many ways you can upgrade your truck camper to enhance your travel and camping experiences.  The following modifications are meant to improve comfort, extend off-grid excursions, and boost safety features.

All-In-One Sleep System

All-In-One Sleep System

Froli Sleep System

Both hard-sided and pop-up truck campers have the main sleeping area located in the cabover section. Even if you don’t feel cramped in the space, you may be waking up with back pain from your mattress. On another note, there is minimal, if any, air circulating under the mattress, which makes this surface prone to condensation, a breeding ground for mold and mildew.

To rectify this predicament, the German-based company Froli devised a sleep system, essentially a mattress foundation comprised of a grid of plastic springs. These springs are made from a very durable Hi-Tech thermoplastic elastomer, which provides precise flexing under a load. Each and every spring elevates the mattress above its platform allowing continuous airflow underneath

Froli has designed three separate sleeping systems, all made with the same high-quality material but differing in spring height, surface area, and design. These systems can be used on bed platforms in boats, RVs, and residential homes. The systems are modular and meant to fit any size and shape sleeping surface, including the curved and odd-shaped sleeping areas of RVs.

A single sleep system can include springs with different firmness levels to accommodate sleeping preferences. One side of the system can comprise the firmer springs for the sleeper that likes a firm mattress, while the other side can have the springs for a softer base.

The following video from Kara of the Everlanders explains how a Froli sleep system can be utilized in an RV sleeping area. The RV couple is from Canada; however, Froli ships their products worldwide, including the U.S.

Solar Power Set-Up

Solar Power Set-Up

Solar Power Set-Up on a Truck Camper

For some RVers, solar power is the way to go, particularly if you are an avid boondocker.  Solar power systems reduce and or completely eliminate the need to run noisy, smelly gas generators to recharge batteries.  This eco-friendly, green solution requires minimal maintenance, is lightweight, and takes up zero room as the panels are mounted to the rooftop. Other system parts can be tucked away in the camper’s compartments.

Also, it is not uncommon for RVers to install their own solar power system.  The major components are solar panels to generate a charging current, a charge controller to regulate that charging current, and one or more deep cycle batteries to store that current. The following video from Explorist Life-DIY Campers gives a detailed description of how a solar power system works, along with a tutorial on installing one on a truck camper.

Plumbing Fixture Upgrades

Plumbing Fixture Upgrades

Delta Shower Head

Conserving water while boondocking, especially with a small RV like a truck camper that has minimal in-house fresh water capacity, is a challenge.  A quick and easy modification you can make to prolong your water supply is to change out plumbing fixtures like showerheads and faucet aerators.

Check your shower head to see if it is one that has a flow restrictor.  If not, it’s time for a change. Brands like Oxygenics and Delta make showerheads that deliver efficient water pressure without wasting water.  This means the water in your fresh tank lasts longer.

Faucet aerators, small screens attached at the base of your kitchen or bathroom faucet, help reduce water flow as well.  Like the showerhead, this is a quick and painless upgrade that helps conserve water and extend your stay off-grid as well.

Safer Entrance Set-Up

Safer Entrance Set Up

Torklift Entry Steps with SafeStep Vinyl Riser Guards

Truck campers sit high above the ground, and sometimes the stairs in and out of the RV can be a bit of a challenge to ascend/descend for some. If you are traveling with little tikes of the human or canine variety, or if you or a family member is prone to losing balance, adding safety features to your entry steps might be a good idea.

The Torklift GlowStep aluminum folding scissor steps are trendy among the truck camper population. Dubbed the “GlowStep Revolution,” Torklift boasts that its stair system is the best in class for adjustability, DIY installment, versatility, and durability. Regardless of where you park, the steps quickly level on uneven ground and are sturdy, no more shaking as people or pets enter/exit the RV. The GlowStep stair system comes with up to 6 steps, has a 7.5-inch step riser height, slip-resistant treads, and glows in the dark.

Many accessories can be added, including the SafeStep. This a vinyl riser guard that velcros to each step, covering the gap between steps. This added safety measure prevents young children and pets from falling through as they climb up or down. The guards can be left on when the steps are folded up and removed for cleaning.

Torklift Dirt Destroyer

Torklift Dirt Destroyer

The Torklift DirtDestroyer is a cleaning brush that can be attached to the GlowStep ladder.  Campers can scrape their shoes or boots on the bristles before stepping into the RV.   This small attachment keeps dirt and other debris out of a small space that can easily get messy otherwise.

TorkLift GlowGuide Handrail

TorkLift GlowGuide Handrail

Another accessory to add more safety is the GlowGuide Handrail.  As the name suggests, it glows in the dark.  The handrail works with most rear-entry truck bed campers and is attached to both the camper and scissor steps. The rail collapses down and stores on the camper when it’s time to pack up.

Best Upgrade Option

Perhaps the best upgrade to any RV is ensuring safe travels through Coach-Net’s roadside assistance program. Since 1987, Coach-Net has been offering specialized care and attention to RVers.

It’s a Coach-Net promise. “Whether you need advice from an RV technician who can guide you through many common technical and operational issues or roadside and campsite assistance when you’re on the road away from home, our extensive provider network throughout the United States and Canada is available whenever and wherever you need it.”

Having peace of mind, knowing you and your family are being protected on the road is the best upgrade to make to any camping venture. Learn more about their roadside assistance and other supplementary programs here.

About The Author: Natalie Henley and her husband, Levi, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years.  They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com.

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Shelley B. ~ “We have been a Coach-Net member since 2010 and have never had a problem. Their call agents are always so pleasant. I always talk to people about my coverage and suggest they give Coach-Net a try.” 

Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

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Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

The sidewall of your RV can take a beating from the weather elements such as wind, rain, hail, and especially the sun beating down on it.  This affects the outer skin which is typically a fiberglass panel, decals, sealants, and your tires.

Sidewalls

Let’s start with the sidewall’s outer skin.  There have been several materials used over the years including aluminum, steel, and the most popular being fiberglass.  Crane Composites is the leader in fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) and introduced the product to the RV industry over 30 years ago.  Most RVers have heard of their signature product, Filon but they also have several other products used in the RV industry.

These products range from the entry-level “ribbed” fiberglass commonly known as “mesa” sidewall to the high gloss material used on luxury RVs.  The basic composition of an FRP sidewall is the base material consisting of liquid plastic and mixed with strands of fiberglass to form a sheet or coil.  These can be colored and are typically available in white and various degrees of beige.  The outer layer gets a gel coat or clear finish which creates a shine.  Economy units have a very thin layer while more expensive units have thicker layers creating more of a shine or automotive finish.

The challenge is keeping the color from fading which has been a huge issue due to UV degradation.  Here is an example of a unit that sat in the California sun unprotected and not maintained.

Sidewall Discoloration

It’s hard to see the discoloration of the sidewall but it has turned to an almost pink hue and the decals show the effects of the exposure.  To minimize this, it’s important to clean the sidewall with a mild detergent such as Dawn dish soap and cover the unit whenever it is not in use.

According to Crane Composites the company that makes Filon, they recommend washing the material monthly with a mild detergent and microfiber rag and doing additional maintenance every 6 months which includes waxing the material.  The gel coat material will change color when exposed to sunlight, heat, and moist air therefore it is important to do the maintenance and reposition the rig frequently to limit full-time exposure to one side.  Crane suggests using Meguiar’s #56 boat and RV Pure Wax which has UV protection built-in.  More information on this procedure can be found on their website here:

If your sidewall already has some discoloration, they suggest Meguiar’s #49 Heavy-Duty Oxidation Remover and a mechanical buffer, then a coat of wax or Mirka Polar Shine 35.  I have also found that Bar Keepers Friend can be used to buff out the discoloration as well.

Decals

Vinyl graphics and decals come in an economical “Calendar” style or more premium Cast type.  The Calendar version has a 2-3 year life cycle while the Cast is 5-7 but both can be extended with periodic care and maintenance.  Most of the vinyl graphics I have researched were produced by Sharpline and Valley Screen and they both recommend washing with a mild detergent that has a PH between 3-11 and has no strong solvents.  Use a microfiber cloth and do not wash cold material with cold water.  Water should be over 70 degrees as cold water can shock the material and the adhesive will delaminate from the vinyl.  If using a pressure washer, keep the tip at least 12 inches from the material and the pressure at or below 1200 psi.  They do not recommend any type of wax as it can keep the vinyl from “breathing” and cause premature fading and cracking.

Tires

It has been said many times that tires are the most valuable component of an RV but also the most neglected.  There are far too many campground stories about tire failure on the road and many have suggested it’s not if…but when a tire will fail.  However, proper maintenance and education of weight and tire pressure will greatly reduce this.

Weighing Your RV

It is important to weigh your rig to determine the total weight does not exceed the GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your rig, the axle weight does not exceed the GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating, and find individual wheel position weights as well.  This can only be done with portable scales and you can find weighing teams through the RV Safety and Education Foundation here: www.rvsafety.com

Tire pressure should be checked every time you hit the road with a certified tire pressure gauge and not simply a glance.  You cannot tell the difference between a properly inflated tire and one that has 10 psi less.  AND…10 psi less than recommended pressure reduces weight carrying capacity by 25%!

Cover your tires when not in use.  Sun and heat can deteriorate the sidewalls and create weather checking which can also lead to tire failure.  Clean the tire with a mild detergent and do not use tire shine!  Check your sidewall often for signs of weather checking.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Micheal S. ~ “Leonard was understanding, thorough, and helped us troubleshoot during the Texas ice storm. We were up and running in less than 15 minutes!” 

Exterior Care And Maintenance  Part 1: The Roof

03 Wednesday Feb 2021

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Exterior Care And Maintenance  Part 1: The Roof

A thorough inspection and maintenance plan of the exterior of your rig is important not only for looks but for longevity as well.  Sealants can become hard and cracked due to exposure to the sun and other elements which can also cause leaks and expensive damage.  Fiberglass and other materials can fade and crack due to UV exposure.   The first step is a visual inspection of all roof and sidewall materials, sealants, windows, tires, and vents.  Conduct a walk around to assess any damage or specific areas that may need more attention.

Roof Maintenance

Each year, the roof material of your RV should be cleaned, inspected, and conditioned properly according to the manufacturer’s recommendation.  First, identify the type of material used for the exterior covering of your rig.  Years ago manufacturer’s used aluminum skin then in the mid 1980’s there was a shift by many to either fiberglass or a rubber membrane known as EPDM.  There are several products on the market that can be used to clean these materials even some designed specifically for EPDM and TPO.  My favorite is Dawn Dish Soap and water, the blue version as it’s great on bird dropping and tree sap, but environmentally friendly.  Remember the footage of duck’s in Alaska getting a bath?  Alpha Systems material is a rubberized component with a fleece backing and they recommend using Murphy’s Oil Soap and water.

Once you identify the material and the proper cleaner, get a soft-bristled brush on a pole, 3 gallons or larger bucket, hose with sprayer, and a ladder.  You typically do not need a high-pressure sprayer which can also be dangerous with the kickback of a spray gun.

**BE CAREFUL WALKING ON THE ROOF!**

Make sure your rig can handle the weight, if not you will need to wash from the side using a scaffold or other device.  Stay away from vents and other openings as these may be weak areas.  Also, be careful about wet surfaces and a slippery roof.  I like to use a good tennis shoe that provides the best traction and oftentimes stay on my hands and knees for better stability!  Take extra precaution and use a tether or safety harness if possible.

Place the rig in a shaded area or wash during overcast as the sun will dry things in a hurry and could leave soap residue.  Wet the side of the rig down before washing and have someone keep it wet while you wash the roof if possible as the sides will dry with soap and cause a huge mess from dust, soap, and even roof material chaulking.  Pour the cleaner into the bucket and mix it in according to the directions.  With Dawn, I typically squeeze about 4-5 seconds of product into a 3-gallon bucket then fill it with water.

The rig should be at a slight angle away from the ladder, I place the rig front down on the driveway so I can climb up the back ladder, start from the front and work back.  This way the soap and water keep running to the front as I walk to the back and I’m typically on dry material the entire time.

Start with a small 4’x4’ area in the front corner and wet it down with the hose first.  Use the brush and cleaner to scrub the area and remove bird droppings or other material then rinse.  Using the pattern listed below, you can clean the entire roof, stay on dry material, and end up back at the ladder to get down.

Front Cap

slide out This is also a good time to clean the top of any slide rooms or the awning if there is one available.  Check with your awning manufacturer for recommended cleaning products and conditioners.

RV Roof

After you are done rinsing the entire roof, let it dry completely and then visually inspect all the seams, sealant, and vents.  Look for cracks in the sealant, separation of the front cap to the main roof material, cracks in roof vent covers, and any tears or cracking of roof material.  If you do find some suspect areas you will want to add additional sealant or better yet remove the old sealant with a heat gun and plastic scraper and apply new sealant.  Make sure you get the sealant designed for the roof material you are applying to.  Plain silicone will not stick to most fiberglass surfaces and you will have leaks.  For flat surfaces, you will want to use a self-leveling lap sealant such as the Dicor product or other approved product.

Silicone

Another product that has been very popular for many years with RVers is Etnernabond sealant tape.  You will need to clean and prime the roof material before applying but it’s an easy fix.

Sealant Tape

If you have an older style “batwing” crank-up antenna, check not only the sealant but the gear mechanism and coax.  It’s a good idea to apply a small amount of graphite lubricant to make it go up and down easier and not attract grit.

RV Roof

If your refrigerator has a roof vent to allow heat to escape, it’s a good idea to remove the cover and inspect the open or “flue”.  It will have a screen mesh covering it to keep critters from getting in and can catch dust, leaves, and other items that will clog it and keep the refrigerator from running efficiently.  If it is dirty, clean it or use a shop vacuum to clean it.  Do not clean with an air compressor as this will push dust down the cavity and into the rig.

If you have a roof air conditioner it is important to check the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit.  Do not run silicone around the perimeter as condensation from the evaporator coils needs to run off the roof.  Remove the cover inside the rig at the air return and you should see 4 spring-loaded bolts that keep the unit snug to the roof.  This is also a good time to inspect the evaporator coils to ensure they are clean and have good airflow going through them.

Here is an example of an evaporator coil clogged with body powder!  This unit was ruined and needed a new AC.  Once you remove the cover, check the filter and vacuum out any dust or obstructions on the coils.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of our Exterior Care & Maintenance blog where we’ll talk through how to care for your fiberglass sidewalls, decals, and tires!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Charles A. ~ “First time user of Coach-Net. We are pleased with our decision to select your service, and will convey the same to our RV friends.”