
There are several types of leveling/stabilizing systems available for RVs starting with very inexpensive, manual scissor jacks all the way up to the cream of the crop automatic hydraulic levelers. These jacks level the rig which is important for comfort while sleeping but also to ensure the refrigerator is level and the solution of hydrogen, water, ammonia, and sodium chromate in the cooling unit can make its way back to the boiler vessel. Both Norcold and Dometic require the cooling unit to be level 6 degrees side to side and 3 degrees front to back otherwise it will pool in a corner and start to heat up and eventually block the flow. A bubble level can be used to ensure the unit is in an acceptable level position.


Manual Jack Maintenance
The jacks are also used to stabilize a rig which keeps it from rocking back and forth while walking through the unit. The constant banging of mini blinds can be very annoying!
Maintenance on jacks is minor, especially the manual jacks as there are no motors, electronics, or hydraulic fluid to check. These jacks simply require an occasional inspection and lubrication of the pivot points.

Most manufacturers recommend using a silicone spray, however, Fluid Film is one of the best lubricants and rust inhibitors available. Look for twisted or binding arms, stripped threads, and loose bolts at the connection.

Electric Jack Maintenance
Another model of leveling and stabilizing jack is the electric such as the Lippert Components Inc (LCI) shown here. The only maintenance required on the mechanical components is inspection and cleaning if the legs and pivot points get dirty or rusted. They do not recommend any lubrication as this may cause additional damage due to dust and dirt collecting on the lubricant! For electrical maintenance, they require a fully charged house battery, visual inspection of the motor and wiring to ensure nothing is hanging below the rig subject to getting caught while driving, and inspection and cleaning of any connections. This can be done with emery cloth and electrical contact cleaner available at most parts stores.

Hydraulic jacks do require a little more maintenance and inspection as they have electrical connections, hydraulic motor and lines, and mechanical components. HWH has been used for many years on larger rigs with manual lever operation and automatic. They recommend cleaning the leveler cylinder with soap and water and then spray with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. This is not recommended by any other hydraulic jack manufacturer! They also recommend checking the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir periodically and adding Dexron III ATF if needed. The fluid should be red and changed if it is murky, milky white, or pink.

All electrical connections should be inspected and cleaned if necessary, and loose wires secured. All hydraulic hoses should be inspected periodically for leaks, wear, and tear, as well as all swagged fittings. The manifold of the motor should also be inspected for leaks. Also, inspect the springs for proper fit and to ensure they are still connected.
Other hydraulic leveling systems such as Kwikee and the LCI Ground Control have a similar maintenance recommendation. Check the system twice a year for leaks, fluid level with the jacks retracted, and all electrical connections checked and cleaned if necessary. If the cylinder is corroded or dirty, clean with soap and water and lubricate with silicone lubrication and wipe off any excess. DO NOT USE WD 40! Also, check all mounting bolts to make sure they are secure as well as any damage to the cylinder or mounting hardware!

If the jacks are extended in an extreme unlevel situation, the weight of the rig can apply undue pressure on the jacks and mounting brackets and cause damage. Visually inspect all components and contact a certified service center if you encounter such damage!
When using the jacks in extremely cold temperatures, the hydraulic system may run slow. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the fluid with a synthetic brand or winter weight. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations for your rig.

Additional Tips
It may be necessary to use an assist such as a block of wood or after-market jack block to prevent the jack from being extended to far. This also helps to stabilize the rig better as the cylinder is now supported more by the jack housing.
When storing the vehicle, most manufacturers indicate it is ok to leave the jacks extended during the storage period. However, since they will be exposed to the elements, it is recommended to clean and lubricate them when bringing the rig out of storage. As mentioned earlier, check with your owner’s manual for the proper lubricant.
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
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It’s no secret: RVers have a well-deserved reputation for being thrifty. Many say that’s why we take our homes on vacation; we’re too cheap to pay for hotel rooms! All kidding aside, I have to admit many RVers like me really do possess a flair for frugality. On rare occasions however, we surprise everyone, including ourselves, by opening our wallets to be a bit more comfortable. After doing so the inevitable question follows: “What took us so long?!” For example, here are three of the best RV upgrades we wish we did sooner:
Some RVers set up camp with all the accoutrements. Not us. We started full-timing in a 24′ fifth wheel with zero room for unnecessary gizmos like twinkly awning lights and telescoping flag poles. We refused to carry items we thought didn’t add much value to the RVing experience, like sewer hose supports and plastic leveling blocks. Living without a sewer hose riser has never been a problem and even sloped campsites never bothered us too much in our smaller rig. But since upgrading to a longer and wider fifth wheel, uneven ground is more annoying than ever. Our rig lacks hydraulic levelers, so last Christmas our practical-minded gift to one another was a $35 set of leveling blocks. After using the blocks from California to Texas, we’re on the level and loving it! Gone are the days of cabinet doors smacking us in the face whenever we open them, or worrying about damaging our refrigerator when we’re unevenly parked. All we have to do is actually remember to use those blocks and everyone’s a happy camper.
Like many RVers, we’ve had our share of costly brake issues. From burning out brakes in the Rockies to getting ripped off by bad mechanics, trailer brakes have been the bane of our full-timing existence – and our bank account. Finally after eight years and 140,000 miles, we opted for an electric over hydraulic disc brake conversion on our new-to-us rig.
Adequate solar electric power systems start with a careful energy audit of your power consumption. Better solar electric power systems end with your willingness to commit a little more money to the project. Our first system was woefully inadequate mainly because our small rig lacked battery storage space – but mostly because of our reluctance to spend more cash. For seven years the system barely met our needs as we limped along during cloudy days. When we finally upgraded to our 27′ fifth wheel, I eagerly surrendered a storage compartment for a bigger, better battery bank and inverter. Cutting the check wasn’t quite as easy but now we can enjoy camping luxuries like running the microwave and our vacuum – a must when you live with a German 