Slide-Out Maintenance

06 Monday May 2024

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

Tags

RV, RV Maintenance, RV slideouts, RV tech tip, Slideout Maintenance, Tech Tips

One of the challenges of writing any technical content for RVers is being able to provide information that is specific to the individual type of RV one has. Since there have been over 100 different RV companies over the years and even more models within those individual companies, it becomes difficult to provide information on every individual scenario without being too generic or too specific to one type which means the information does not pertain to a wide majority.

And so it is with slide room maintenance. Slide rooms were introduced in travel trailers and 5^th Wheels as far back as the 1970s and the “Power Slide” was invented and introduced in 1990 by Newmar. Most other companies joined the slide-out craze a few years later with a variety of new mechanisms such as HWH, Power Gear, and others. Since then there have been both hydraulic and electric mechanisms from companies such as Kwikee, RBW Industries, and more recently, Lippert Components Inc (LCI) which has purchased Power Gear, Kwikee, BAL Accu-Slide, and others.

Hydraulic Mechanisms

Typically a hydraulic slide-out mechanism uses a pump that that is often shared with the hydraulic leveling jacks if equipped. It has a fluid reservoir and pumps the fluid through the lines and cylinders to move the room in and out. There is little maintenance required of the pump other than making sure the fluid level is checked and topped off with the recommended hydraulic fluid.

The actual mechanisms vary between manufacturers, HWH uses two telescoping rams with a synchronizing rod. HWH recommends periodically cleaning the rams with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated. One note: run the room all the way to the extended and retracted position, do not stop part-way!

Lippert Components Inc (LCI) uses an inner and outer assembly with a drive tube. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated and to visually inspect all components for debris, dirt buildup, and bent parts. If you experience a squeaking noise during operation apply a coat of lightweight oil and wipe off the excess and DO NOT USE GREASE!

Several manufacturers have used the RWB Industries motor (owned by Dexter) and a proprietary gear-driven mechanism such as Newmar, National RV, and others. Since there are so many different mechanisms used, it’s a safe bet to run the unit a couple of times a year, visually inspect the components, and verify what lubricant your manufacturer recommends to clean and lubricate the gears and arms.

Electric Mechanism

Smaller, lightweight rooms use a more inexpensive electric motor, especially models that do not have hydraulic leveling jacks that could utilize the jack motor. Once again there are several options such as the cable slides (BAL Acu-slide), Schwintek with small motors in the sidewall and a gear-driven track, or a standard mechanism with an electric motor.

The electric motor requires no maintenance other than having 12-volt power to the unit. The cable systems do require a periodic visual inspection to make sure the cable is not sagging, loose, or frayed.

Cable Slideout

It is also a good idea to visually inspect all components for debris or obstructions and clean out any tracks with fluid film, a spray product available at O’Reilly Auto Parts. This is a rust inhibitor and will not damage rubber seals. Make sure to wipe off any excess spray.

Schwintek

The Schwintek slideout mechanism can develop a grinding or squeaking noise and it is recommended to spray CRC Power Lube with PTFE on the rails as well as the gibbs and motor coupler. These can be found by pulling back the rubber seal outside at the rails.

Slide Room and Seal Maintenance

Most slide rooms or the “Box” are fairly similar, the outer wall cut out of or built from the same material as the sidewall, laminated side/top/bottom panels. These do not require much maintenance other than making sure there is no debris on the top of the slide room when you bring it back in! Some manufacturers have an awning over the slide room to keep sticks and other debris from falling on the top which would tear the bulb seal during retraction. If you do not have an awning cover, you need to clean off the top every time you retract the room!

LEVEL THE COACH BEFORE RETRACTING THE SLIDE! I’m amazed at how many companies do not have this as a standard operating procedure? RV chassis are not rock solid, they will bend and twist in an unlevel situation which causes the sidewall to twist which creates additional pressure or binding as the square box is trying to go out of an unsquared opening.

All slideout rooms have a weather strip or seal around the opening of the sidewall. Some use a two-part rubber gasket or seal applied both inside the rig and outside. Others use a two-sided bulb seal that is applied to the flange of the sidewall. In either case, it’s a good idea to condition the seal with an approved product such as the ProtectAll SlideOut Rubber Seal Treatment or ProtectAll All Surface Care.

Both products have UV protection that will help keep the rubber seal from weather checking and reduce friction.

Visually inspect the underside of the slide room both inside and out. Look for obstructions or any signs of wear and tear. Most use a roller or glide underneath, make sure there is no damage to the mechanism or the floor.

And finally, make sure you look for items around the side of the room inside such as lawn chairs or other items that might have been placed or stored when packing up the camper. You can not believe what a mess a boxed wine container makes when the room is extended!

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ken S. ~ “I’ve had to use Coach-Net Roadside twice since signing up. Your response is fast and you follow up to make sure the towing company showed up during the window quoted. It’s great!”

RV Oven And Stove Top Maintenance and Troubleshooting

01 Wednesday Dec 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

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RV Oven, RV Oven Troubleshooting, RV Stove, RV Stove Troubleshooting, RV tech tips, RVRC, Tech Tips

When I was traveling full time in a Winnebago motorhome training dealers across the country, the stovetops and ovens were pretty simple and there were only a couple of models, Magic Chef, and Atwood. But just like everything else in the RV industry dozens of models have come and gone over the years and today, there are dozens of brands available such as Furrion, Recpro, Suburban, and Dometic which now owns Atwood which also owns Wedgewood, and many more.

A major shift in the industry that I have noticed in the past decade is the use of more residential appliances and furnishing especially since the slide rooms provide more space for the larger items such as residential refrigerators and electric stovetops and ovens although they take an enormous amount of electricity so the old propane models are still the majority that I have seen.

For this article, we will focus on the propane model stovetop and oven combination. The first step in any appliance maintenance and troubleshooting is to understand the operation and lighting sequence. Your main LP regulator at the LP container will reduce the pressure supplied to the rig to 11” of the water column. Most RV stovetops and ovens have an internal regulator that will reduce that down to 10” of water column to a manifold. This manifold has the control knob attached to it and in the case of the stovetop, delivers LP to the burner assembly. The rate of flame or temperature is regulated by the operator turning the knob to the desired height. In the case of the oven, the temperature is set at the knob and a thermostat regulates the flow of LP to the desired temperature to the burner tube.

The oven pilot must be lit before the burner assemble will light. Typically pressing the oven knob in will supply lp to the pilot assembly which must be lit manually and stay lit for at least 30 seconds until the flame reaches and heats the thermocoupler. This pushes a magnet in which is a safety feature in case the flame goes out. The thermostat senses temperature and some models have a temperature bulb in the back of the oven called a mini bulb. Once the thermocouple senses a flame, LP flows to the burner assembly and is lit by the pilot light. If the flame and the pilot light go out, the magnet drops and shut off LP to the oven. The thermostat senses temperature from the temperature bulb in the back of the oven.

For the stovetop, simply press in and turn the knob and turn the ignitor if your model has one, or manually light the burner with a long match or butane stick lighter. Keep in mind the burner assembly does not have a thermocoupler so the LP will continue to flow if the knob is open and there is no flame! I have leaned against a knob in units and smelled the distinct rotten egg smell in the past! Make sure the knob is in the off and locked position when not in use.

Stovetop Maintenance

Compared to other appliances, there is little maintenance required with an LP stovetop/oven combination other than keeping it clean. Some stovetop models have a sealed burner assembly which means the metal cover comes all the way around the burner so food can not spill over into the burner area. Periodically inspect the burner orifice to ensure nothing is spilled over and clogging which can affect performance or even start on fire.

Troubleshooting The Stove Top

If the stovetop will not light with the piezo or spark assist, verify there is LP coming to the burner by trying to light it manually with a butane lighter. If it lights, the piezo is either defective or has a cracked ceramic case which will send the spark through the crack rather than to the burner. Visually inspect the piezo for spark attempt.

If the burner does not light manually and has no LP flowing to the burner check another burner to verify LP flow. If there is LP flow to another burner, check the supply tube to the affected burner and clean. If not, check to make sure the knob is actually opening on the stovetop and the valve is on at the LP container. Often times there is an in-line shut-off valve to LP appliances that should also be checked. If all these steps are verified, check another LP appliance to verify the main regulator is working properly. If it is, there is an issue with the LP supply line to the stovetop. Some models have an air shutter that can be adjusted. Check with your owner’s manual. It is also a good idea to check connections for leaks with an approved LP leak solution. Do not use soap and water as some detergents can cause corrosion to the metal.

If the burner lights, but the flame is yellow and “jumping” the LP pressure is too high and needs to be tested and adjusted by a certified technician with a water column tester first at the stovetop regulator and then the main LP regulator at the container.

If the burner lights but the flame is too small, verify the knob is actually turning to the higher position first, then check for insufficient pressure again by a certified technician. If other burners are working correctly, clean the supply tube or replace the knob/valve.

Troubleshooting The Oven

If the pilot does not light, check for leaks at the pilot supply tube, check LP pressure at the oven regulator, and then the main LP container regulator. Inspect and clean the pilot assembly to ensure LP is flowing to the pilot. If the pilot lights but does not stay lit after 30 seconds verify the thermocoupler is positioned properly and the flame is reaching it.

If the pilot stays lit but the oven will not light, verify LP flow to the burner assembly and adjust the air shutter if applicable. Also, have LP pressure tested by a certified technician with a water column tester.

If the oven lights, but has low flame and low temperature, test LP pressure at the regulator and burner assembly. Low pressure at the burner assembly would indicate a valve not opening.

If the oven has low temperatures or uneven heat it may be as simple as poor air circulation inside the oven. There must be at least 1” space on all sides from items cooking inside the oven. There are also ventilation holes at the bottom that can get clogged with food drippings and must be cleaned out as well as the top vents. Do not cover the bottom of the racks with aluminum foil to catch drippings! Check your owner’s manual for specifics to your model.

Intermittent Operation of Both

If the stovetop and or oven work for a short period of time but then fail, it could either be insufficient LP pressure or low 12-volt power. This is what we call “gremlins” during troubleshooting as they sometimes can not be replicated in the service department! All LP appliances need 12-volt DC power to open gas valves and run the thermostats. This power is supplied by the deep cycle house batteries which are also supplying other appliances and items like lights and fans. If the batteries are sulfated or the converter/charger can not keep up, the battery bank drains down and will shut off the LP supply at the valve. Typically this only happens with the oven as it has the thermocoupler and thermostat.

If your main LP container regulator is getting weak, it might be able to supply enough pressure (11” WC) to the stovetop/oven regulator however if the water heater or refrigerator kicks in, the regulator might not be able to provide enough LP pressure to all the appliances? This would require using a pressure tester and turning on several appliances at once to verify proper pressure during extreme use situations.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Fresh Water Systems – How they work and tips for maintenance

18 Wednesday Nov 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Coach-Net Blog, Coach-Net RV, RV Tips, RV Water Systems, RV Water Tanks, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, Winterizing

The freshwater system in most RVs actually consists of two systems; the freshwater tank with an on-board water pump and the city water pressurized fitting. In either case, pressurized water is supplied to the kitchen and bathroom sinks, toilet, shower, the ice maker is so equipped and exterior shower.

Freshwater tank and on-board water pump.

The freshwater tanks store water on board the RV and supply pressure from the on-demand water pump as a faucet is opened or a toilet flushed. These tanks vary in size depending on the type of RV and the space available. Travel trailers and 5^th wheels typically have the tanks stored under dinette seats or even the bed platform while basement model units have them stored underneath the floor.

On most travel trailers, the freshwater tank can be filled with a hose using the gravity feed port. Make sure you use an FDA approved drinking water hose to fill and store it in a clean sanitary space. Simply insert the hose and begin filling. The freshwater tank will have a vent hose either at the top or in the fill line.

Some basement models have a valve that will allow you to fill the freshwater tanks while connected to city water. Connect your drinking hose to a faucet, then your city fill connection, turn the valve and the fresh water tank will fill.

The on-demand pump is typically located next to the freshwater tank and runs on 12-volt power provided by the house batteries. A switch turns the pump on and off and is typically located in the kitchen area, however, more manufacturers are putting another switch in the bathroom and some a third outside at the exterior shower. When the switch is on, the pump senses the need for pressure and cycles on and off as needed. Some of the smaller pumps provide on cost-effective trailers only provide low pressure of 20-30 psi while larger ones will provide 40 psi or more.

City Water

When connected to a pressurized city faucet such as the campground source or an outside faucet at home, pressurized water is provided by the city valve and bypasses the freshwater tanks and pump automatically. The only thing required by an owner is to make sure the water fill valve is turned to the normal flow or operation on models that have this feature.

The water system in most campgrounds will utilize a well and pump and can provide more pressure than some RV plumbing systems can handle. My folks went to visit my brother and his family and hooked up the water hose to the outside faucet and then to their city water connection. Several hours later as they went to their rig for the night they found the entire floor soaked! Nothing broke, however, the fittings could not handle the 60 psi the exterior faucet provided and needless to say, they had an unforgettable evening. It is a good idea to have a pressure regulator set at 40 psi on hand as you never know what the pressure will be. Also, every campground is required to have an annual inspection of their water quality and post an MSDS sheet in the office, however, the water system could pass inspection but have high levels of rust, calcium, and other minerals. I always have a water filter connected to the pressure regulator before the hose coming into my RV just to make sure. This also filters the hard water to help reduce the faucets from getting clogged with calcium, lime, and rust.

Another option is the in-line filter from Shurflo and others which is a little more convenient, however, the entire filter needs to be changed rather than just a cartridge.

Water Pump

The water pump does not require much maintenance other than winterizing and occasionally cleaning the in-line filter. The filter is typically connected to the inlet side of the pump as seen in this photo on the top with “Pink” RV antifreeze. If your water pump “cycles” or runs intermittently without a faucet on, there is a leak somewhere in the system as pressure drops at the pump and it turns on. If this happens, make sure all faucets are off and check for leaks in the faucets, toilet, ice maker, and exterior shower.

Winterizing

One of the most important issues with the freshwater system is winterizing which means to keep everything from freezing! When water freezes it expands and that means bursts in water lines, water heater tanks, faucets, the water pump, and other items that can cause a substantial amount of damage and costly repairs. It is critical that you winterize your freshwater system by either draining all the water or using RV antifreeze. Check out our archives for both methods.

Sanitizing

Having grown up in a rural community and spending a lot of time on my grandparents’ farm bailing hay and walking beans, I love the taste of well water! However, after it sits in a freshwater tank for too long, it starts to get a little undesirable! Drain the water tank completely then refill it with fresh water to ½ capacity. Mix in ¼ cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of water through the gravity feed and add a couple more gallons of water after to flush the bleach into the tank. Top the tank off with more freshwater and drive the RV around the block a few times to mix the solution. Then turn on the water pump and open each faucet and toilet individually until the bleach solution comes out. Let it sit for several hours and then drain the system. Don’t forget about the exterior shower, ice maker, and water heater!

The bleach taste will dissipate eventually, however, there are several products on the market that can help clean and sanitize your freshwater tanks such as these from Thetford.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Reviving Your RV Furnace

30 Friday Oct 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Tags

Camping In The Cold, Camping In The Winter, RV Care, RV Furnace, RV Maintenance, RV tech tips, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, winter camping

While it is important to keep all your appliances in good condition, the furnace is the one appliance that is truly out-of-sight-out-of-mind and is of utmost importance in colder weather. This article serves as a reminder about furnace maintenance.

RV Furnace

An RV furnace requires almost no maintenance. If necessary, clean or vacuum out the ducts if they get dusty or dirty. Regularly inspect the furnace intake on the outside of the RV for debris, insects, or other restrictions. Restrictions in the air intake can cause incomplete combustion. The by-products of incomplete combustion are Carbon Monoxide (CO) and soot. CO is an odorless, colorless, toxic gas. Incomplete combustion can be indicated by the presence of soot on the furnace exhaust on the outside of the RV. However, this is not a given and is another reason to have your system annually inspected.

Since RV furnaces do not have intake filtration like the ones in our homes do, it is common for the system to get dust and lint caught in it so the furnace either does not work properly or doesn’t work at all. Depending on the make and model of your furnace, you will either have an access panel on the outside or inside of your coach. The latter will likely be behind a panel that says “not for storage” or something similar. Check that space and vacuum it as necessary. Remove the cover from the furnace housing and vacuum the inside of the appliance.

A common failure mode for an RV furnace is that the blower runs for a short time, then the furnace shuts off. This is a result of the burner not lighting and can be caused by several things. In many cases, it is the result of debris in the sail switch (also called the “air prover”). This is a relatively easy component to clean. Refer to your owner’s manual to learn how.

The order of operation for an RV furnace is as follows:

The thermostat calls for heat
The furnace blower starts after a short delay
The blower runs for several seconds in order to purge any non-combusted propane
The control will check airflow via the sail switch
If it is closed, the burner will attempt to ignite

Many owners aren’t aware of this order of operations, so I am including it here. If you are having problems with your furnace, this list may help you understand what function is failing so you can better communicate to your service provider.

While the RV furnace is a reliable, largely maintenance-free appliance, keeping it clean can help to ward off furnace problems when you may need it the most.

Propane Appliances

I must briefly include this as a reminder that it is extremely important to have your RV propane system professionally inspected annually. Your local RV service center will make sure your system has no propane leaks, your regulator is working properly and outputting the correct propane pressure, and your appliances are all functioning as they should.

Failure to have your system regularly inspected runs the risk of your unit getting a propane leak, or your appliances not functioning properly, possibly resulting in incomplete combustion. Both of these conditions are potentially very hazardous. So, it is important to keep your unit properly maintained. The same applies to other regular tasks, such as seal inspections.

About the author: Steve Froese

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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Slide Rooms – A Love/Hate Relationship

09 Wednesday Sep 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Tags

RV slideouts, RV tech tips, RV Troubleshooting, Slide-Out Troubleshooting, Slideout Maintenance, slideouts, Tech Tips

Slide rooms, slide-outs, room extensions, bump-outs, whatever you want to call them have “expanded” the interior space for RVs since the early years of the travel trailers in the 1970s and into the larger trailers with NewMar and the motorized in the mid-1990s. When I was at Winnebago Industries we introduced the first slide room in an Itasca Suncruiser in 1996 and the wide-body (102.5”) in the Winnebago Adventurer. At that time the only slide mechanisms available were the HWH hydraulic version with slide-out rams, and the Power Gear used by Fleetwood with hydraulics and a pinion gear mechanism.

Fast forward to 2020 and we now see room extensions in just about every RV and a variety of power systems and mechanisms! A couple of years ago I talked with my contact at Winnebago about the problems owners were having with their slide rooms and he indicated that Lippert Componets Inc (LCI) has purchased almost every slide mechanism company such as Power Gear, Schwintek, Kwikee, and also have their own systems. So the biggest challenge is identifying what system you have and there could be several in your rig!

Leveling Your Rig

Photo Credit: David Solberg

I have discussed this with every slide mechanism manufacturer and they all agree…level your rig and stabilize it before extending the slide rooms! If the rig is out of level, the chassis will twist and the sidewall will twist and the room will not be able to extend without some resistance.

Check Your Battery Voltage

Most slide room mechanisms operate on the 12-volt house batteries and there is a very huge issue with sulfated or weak batteries. You can check out our other articles on proper battery charging/conditioning, however, it’s a good idea to carry a portable battery charger that you can use to get your slide room and leveling jacks retracted in the case of an emergency. If your batteries are weak or sulfated, they may run some basic functions, but when it comes to a major amp draw to bring the slide room in or out, they may not be up to the task. Hook up a portable charger/booster and you might be able to provide enough power to extend or retract the room. Even if your batteries show a 12.6-volt charge with a multimeter, they could be sulfated enough to not provide enough power to extend or retract the room. This can be verified with the same multimeter on the battery at the time of operation which would show the voltage drop during the “draw”.

Troubleshooting Guides

Most of the major slide mechanism manufacturers have troubleshooting guides available, it’s just a manor of understanding what mechanism you have. If it’s a cable slide used mostly in the bedroom slides, it’s probably a BAL Acuslide or LCI and the motor is located inside above the room with cables and pulleys. This is an easy system to troubleshoot as the points are the motor, cables, and pulleys.

Troubleshooting Schwintek Slide Mechanism

The Schwintek slide has small motors in the walls of the rig on each side that run the room out on a rail of teeth. There are two issues with this slide, make sure the motor is working and the rail is aligned with the teeth of the motor. Pull back the rubber seal and you should be able to see the motor and the “gibbs” above and below the rail. Lippert Components Inc (LCI) which owns the Schwintek brand recommends lubricating the motor coupler and gibbs with CRC power Lube. Check your owner’s manual for specific locations.

Photo Credit: David Solberg

If your slide room does not operate, verify proper voltage from the house batteries. Try using a battery charger to “boost” the batteries during mechanism operation. Also verify there is nothing restricting the room such as items along the side or something underneath the room. The room typically moves in and out on rollers. Check to make sure they are not jammed or broken.

Lippert Owner’s Manual

There are several troubleshooting methods outlined in the owner’s manual such as verifying voltage to the motors, checking resistance at the motor and others. You can manually retract the slide room by over riding the control module or in a worst case scenario, removing the motors and manually retracting the slide room.

Hydraulic Slide Room Troubleshooting

Lippert Components Incorporated (LCI) owns the majority of slide room mechanisms having purchased Schwintek, Power Gear, and even Kwikee over the years and has an excellent customer service department. If you don’t have an owner’s manual for your slide mechanism, they have them available online and it’s a good idea to have one handy! It’s best to review the troubleshooting tips at your leisure rather than stuck with a nonfunctioning slide room in the middle of your vacation. If your hydraulic mechanism is not working, first check the battery voltage as suggested earlier, then check the fluid reservoir. One of the biggest issues with slide room failure according to my source at one of the largest motorhome manufacturers is ground wires as there are several “gremlins” in the grounded system of rigs. If the motor is not operating, the first thing they do in the service department is run a new dedicated ground rather than spending hours tracing the old one.

Once again, there are some very good troubleshooting tips in the owner’s manual or you can find additional help at www.lci1.com/customerservice or call customer service at 574-537-8900.

If the motor does not operate, verify there is 12v DC power to the back of the switch and to the motor. If there is 12v DC power to the motor and it does not operate, the motor needs to be replaced. You can manually override most hydraulic systems with a hand crank or an appropriate hex or other bit at the motor. In our video demonstration, our unit required a ¼” hex bit had a manual drive knob that could be turned and with the hex bit inserted into the access port, the room could be extended and retracted. Turning the knob allowed the hydraulic fluid to flow the proper direction.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Leveling Jack Maintenance

06 Thursday Feb 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Leveling Blocks, Leveling Your RV, RV leveling, RV tech tips, Tech Tips

There are several types of leveling/stabilizing systems available for RVs starting with very inexpensive, manual scissor jacks all the way up to the cream of the crop automatic hydraulic levelers. These jacks level the rig which is important for comfort while sleeping but also to ensure the refrigerator is level and the solution of hydrogen, water, ammonia, and sodium chromate in the cooling unit can make its way back to the boiler vessel. Both Norcold and Dometic require the cooling unit to be level 6 degrees side to side and 3 degrees front to back otherwise it will pool in a corner and start to heat up and eventually block the flow. A bubble level can be used to ensure the unit is in an acceptable level position.

Manual Jack Maintenance

The jacks are also used to stabilize a rig which keeps it from rocking back and forth while walking through the unit. The constant banging of mini blinds can be very annoying!

Maintenance on jacks is minor, especially the manual jacks as there are no motors, electronics, or hydraulic fluid to check. These jacks simply require an occasional inspection and lubrication of the pivot points.

Most manufacturers recommend using a silicone spray, however, Fluid Film is one of the best lubricants and rust inhibitors available. Look for twisted or binding arms, stripped threads, and loose bolts at the connection.

Electric Jack Maintenance

Another model of leveling and stabilizing jack is the electric such as the Lippert Components Inc (LCI) shown here. The only maintenance required on the mechanical components is inspection and cleaning if the legs and pivot points get dirty or rusted. They do not recommend any lubrication as this may cause additional damage due to dust and dirt collecting on the lubricant! For electrical maintenance, they require a fully charged house battery, visual inspection of the motor and wiring to ensure nothing is hanging below the rig subject to getting caught while driving, and inspection and cleaning of any connections. This can be done with emery cloth and electrical contact cleaner available at most parts stores.

Hydraulic jacks do require a little more maintenance and inspection as they have electrical connections, hydraulic motor and lines, and mechanical components. HWH has been used for many years on larger rigs with manual lever operation and automatic. They recommend cleaning the leveler cylinder with soap and water and then spray with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. This is not recommended by any other hydraulic jack manufacturer! They also recommend checking the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir periodically and adding Dexron III ATF if needed. The fluid should be red and changed if it is murky, milky white, or pink.

All electrical connections should be inspected and cleaned if necessary, and loose wires secured. All hydraulic hoses should be inspected periodically for leaks, wear, and tear, as well as all swagged fittings. The manifold of the motor should also be inspected for leaks. Also, inspect the springs for proper fit and to ensure they are still connected.

Other hydraulic leveling systems such as Kwikee and the LCI Ground Control have a similar maintenance recommendation. Check the system twice a year for leaks, fluid level with the jacks retracted, and all electrical connections checked and cleaned if necessary. If the cylinder is corroded or dirty, clean with soap and water and lubricate with silicone lubrication and wipe off any excess. DO NOT USE WD 40! Also, check all mounting bolts to make sure they are secure as well as any damage to the cylinder or mounting hardware!

If the jacks are extended in an extreme unlevel situation, the weight of the rig can apply undue pressure on the jacks and mounting brackets and cause damage. Visually inspect all components and contact a certified service center if you encounter such damage!

When using the jacks in extremely cold temperatures, the hydraulic system may run slow. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the fluid with a synthetic brand or winter weight. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations for your rig.

Additional Tips

It may be necessary to use an assist such as a block of wood or after-market jack block to prevent the jack from being extended to far. This also helps to stabilize the rig better as the cylinder is now supported more by the jack housing.

When storing the vehicle, most manufacturers indicate it is ok to leave the jacks extended during the storage period. However, since they will be exposed to the elements, it is recommended to clean and lubricate them when bringing the rig out of storage. As mentioned earlier, check with your owner’s manual for the proper lubricant.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Winterizing Tips For All Types of Rvers

30 Wednesday Oct 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

New RVer, RV tech tip, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, technology, winter camping, Winterizing

At a previous RVIA California Show in Fontana CA, I had to explain to my seminar attendees what winter actually was! It was 100+ degrees in California and most of them stared at me like a dog staring at a ceiling fan when we discussed cold weather camping. Being from the Midwest (Iowa) we only have two seasons, winter and road construction so we have become very good at winterizing our rigs. So even though most of the attendees were not going to store their rigs in sub-freezing temperatures, they might go to the mountains where temperatures could reach below freezing over 6 months out of the year.

So weather (pun intended) you are storing your rig for the winter in areas subject to freezing temperatures or might venture to such areas, it’s good to know the basics of how to protect your rig from damage due to a longer storage period and freezing temperatures.

Develop a checklist

It’s important to identify what appliances, water systems, dump tanks, and other accessories your rig has and customize a list to make sure everything is verified. Your rig may have a refrigerator ice maker, toilet shower, chassis battery, or other items that need attention before storing the unit.

Water System

This is the first step in winterizing, you need to make sure water in your freshwater tank, water lines, water pump, and dump tanks are either protected with RV antifreeze or removed completely as frozen water expands and will split water lines and rupture water heater tanks. This causes tremendous damage when the temperatures rise and the water soaks into the carpet, floor, and other parts of the rig.

RV Anti-Freeze

Non-toxic, “pink” RV anti-freeze can be used to replace all the water in your rig. It will not harm any of the plastic components and has no residual taste or toxic effects on your freshwater system.

Start by draining your freshwater, greywater, and blackwater tanks completely.
Next, you will need to drain the water heater by removing the drain plug from the outside at the water heater vent panel.

The water heater typically holds 6-10 gallons of water and most manufacturers have installed a water heater bypass valve to reduce the amount of RV anti-freeze needed for the system.

3. The next step is to introduce the RV anti-freeze into the water system.

If you have a winterizing kit/valve, it’s as easy as putting the winterizing hose into a jug of RV antifreeze and letting the onboard water pump fill the lines.
Turn on the water pump, then open the faucet or showerhead the farthest away from the pump until the pink antifreeze comes through.
If you do not have a winterizing valve, you will need to fill the freshwater tank up with 5-6 gallons of the antifreeze and run it through the pump in the same manner.
Continue with all the faucets in the rig, toilet, toilet sprayer, shower, and exterior shower if applicable.

Remove Water With Compressed Air

Some RVers opt to remove all the water in the system rather than use the pink RV antifreeze.

Once again, drain all the water out of the fresh water tank, black, and grey holding tanks, and water heater.

A special air fitting can be purchased and threaded into the city water fill, or you can make a DIY tool pictured here and attach it to the city water fill.

2. Attach the air compressor and make sure you turn the pressure (psi) down to 40 psi and turn it on.

3. Then go to the farthest faucet and open it up until all the water is pushed out and only air comes out.

4. Do this to all faucets, showerheads, toilets, toilet sprayers, and outside shower.

5. Keep in mind you may have low-point drain valves that will speed the process, check your owner’s manual.

Refrigerator Ice Maker

If you have an ice maker in the refrigerator, both Norcold and Dometic recommend draining the water out.

First, close the water supply line to the ice maker and push the ice maker arm to the off position.
Remove the water supply line at the solenoid, usually located in the outside lower vent compartment.
Drain all the water from the water supply line and the ice maker lines.
Place both ends into a plastic bag and tape it shut.
For more specific information on your type of refrigerator, consult your refrigerator owner’s manual.

LP System

Shut off the LP at the DOT cylinder valve or ASME tank on your rig rather than individual appliances.

House Batteries

The deep cycle batteries in your rig will naturally lose a charge during storage even if everything is shut off. It’s important to keep them charged or maintained so they do not sulfate or even freeze. If you do not have access to electricity, remove the house batteries and bring them into a garage or other storage facility and connect them to a battery conditioner. Another option would be to install a solar panel just large enough for conditioning such as the Zamp 20 amp maintainer.

As the battery drains, sulfur attacks the plates and coats them reducing storage capacity. A multistage charger or conditioner breaks up the sulfation and extends the life of the battery. If you do have access to electricity, keep the unit plugged in or install a conditioning charger. Just using a conventional converter in a distribution center will not condition the batteries. You will need a multi-stage charger or a larger inverter with this function.

Before storing your rig, remove all food from the refrigerator and cabinets inside and out. As stated earlier, develop a customized list for your rig which could include taking precautions for rodents, skirting underneath the rig, or using a cover.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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What You Need In Your RV Toolbox

06 Tuesday Aug 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

CareFree, RV, RV tech tip, RV Tips, rv toolbox, RV Toolkits, rv tools, Tech Tips

Most RV enthusiasts start with a basic assortment of tools such as screwdrivers, pliers, and sockets. The more you travel, and the more comfortable you get with doing some of your own maintenance and repairs, the more you “customize” your toolbox for your rig and level of experience. Just as there are hundreds of different types of RVs, there are a wide assortment of tools that can be used to do the job so there is not one “standard” list of tools that will be right for every RVer. However, here is a list that is a good reference to get you started on your journey to the “Ultimate Toolbox”.

Basics

Screwdrivers – Philips/flat head (three different sizes but definitely #2 phillips head)
Pliers – Large and small
Channel Lock Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Side Cutter
Tin Snips
Wire Stripper/cutter
Socket Sets – ¼” – 3/8” – Some ½” for larger projects like lug nuts – SAE & Metric ( I also carry a set of deep well sockets – 3/8”)
Multi-bit set with Torx, #2 Philips, and others
Assorted Drill Bits
Wrench Set – Open End/Box End – SAE & Metric
Cordless Screw Gun/Charger
Electric Screw Gun (Just In Case!)
Blow Hammer
Regular Hammer
Crescent Wrench – 2 sizes
Razor Knife
Vise Grips
Tire Gauge
Bubble Level
Plumbers Tape
Gloves
LED Flashlight
Shop Towels
Hand Cleaner/Sanitizer

Electrical

Duct Tape
Black Electrical Tape
Rescue Tape
12-volt Test Light
Digital Multimeter
Non Contact Voltage Tester
Battery Terminal Cleaner/Sealant
Assorted Wire Terminals/Wire Nuts
Wire – 10 ga/12 ga
Assorted Bulbs
Assorted Fuse
Extra 120-volt Outlet/GFCI
Battery Filler/Distilled Water
Zip Ties
Certified Tire Gauge
GFCI Outlet Tester
Voltage Tester – Surge Guard
AmWatt – Amperage Guage
10 Gauge Extension Cord (Note: used for tools only)

Emergency

Roadside Emergency Kit – Flares, Triangles, etc
Jumper Cables
Portable 12-volt Booster/Air Compressor
First Aid Kit
Fire Extinguishers
Fuel Can – empty
Floor Jack – Note: make sure it is rated for your weight and you consult your owner’s manual for proper placement and lifting the rig. Most RVers purchase roadside assistance and let someone else wrestle with the wheel!

Fluids/Sealants

Oil
Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Fluid (slide room motor and jacks)
Brake Fluid
Antifreeze
Windshield Washer Fluid
CRC Silicone Spray
Self-Leveling Lap Seal designed for roof material
Fluid Film

Customized Items

Conduct a thorough walk through inside and out to see what “specialized” fasteners and other items your rig may have such as torx head screws, allen head, or even pop rivets? This is something that will be a work in progress as you come across items that are unique and it will prompt you to wonder; “why did they use that?!”

Wind Speed Indicator – AC/Heater Air Flow
Level Check – LP Level Tester
Magnet Source – Magnetizer/Demagnetizer
Puck Wrench
Milk Crate – great for carrying tools as well as a stool!
PEX Water Line & Fittings – Hose Cutter
Winegard Satellite Finder
Intellitec Water Purity Tester
Infrared Temperature Gauge
BullsEye Rock Chip Repair Kit
Crow Bar

Miscellaneous

Barkeepers Friend
ProtectAll Surface Cleaner
Bleach
Dawn Dish Soap

Tool Box

There are a variety of tool boxes and containers, I personally use a variety of items starting with the soft bag with pouches around the side and a handle in the middle. This has a basic assortment of often used tools. For smaller electrical items I have a Stanley “Sortmaster” organizer. All other tools are stored in a Craftsman tool bag.

As you become familiar with the various maintenance items such as the plug for the water heater, you will start to add tools. Atwood uses a 1 1/16” plug while Suburban uses a 7/8” one. You will probably add items like nut drivers, putty knives, heat gun, clamps, worm clamps and other items. As stated before, no two toolboxes are alike…have fun in designing your own!

To ensure you have easy access to this handy checklist, feel free to download, print, and share with your RVing friends.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Driving Your RV In The Winter

06 Wednesday Feb 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

recreational vehicle, RV, RV driving, RV tech tip, Tech Tips, vehicle maintenace, Winter Driving, Winter Travel

More winter enthusiasts are taking to the slopes and frozen tundra in RVs to support their cold-weather hobbies and activities. Winter festivals are becoming popular such as the “Color Of The Wind” in Northern Iowa, Polar Bear plunges all over the US, and one of the largest festivals, The Winter Carnival in St Paul, MN.

An RV, whether it’s a motorhome or truck and trailer, makes a great warm getaway, mobile hotel room, or cozy “Chalet”! However, just like any winter activity, caution and some preparation is required to make sure your event or journey is a safe one.

Prepare Your Vehicle

Batteries

Make sure your chassis battery has been checked and fully charged as well as your charging system. If you will be dry camping or camping “Off The Grid” make sure your house batteries are in good working order and you have the ability to recharge them with either a generator or solar panel system. If you do not have an on-board generator, a portable is a good idea in case of an emergency. Make sure it’s a generator/inverter as this will provide a pure sine wave and will not damage delicate microprocessors in electronics.

Check Your Weight

It’s a good idea any time you pack a vehicle for a trip to get your vehicle weighed to make sure you are not exceeding the weight ratings. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum weight your rig can weigh with all water, LP, cargo, and passengers in the case of a motorhome. Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) is the maximum weight that can be on each axle. Visit www.catscale.com to find a Cat Scale near you to weigh your rig. A safe rule of thumb is to make sure your rig is at least 10% under maximum GVWR and GAWR. Being at maximum weight or over is dangerous for tires, bearings, and makes it especially harder to stop!

Tires

Check your tires every day you hit the road for proper pressure and any obvious defects and wear such as sidewall weather checking, or poor tread. Most states require replacement of tires when the tread depth reaches 2/32”. This is fine for normal driving conditions, however when there is wet or snowy pavement, the moisture must be channeled or directed away from the surface of the tire and the road. This is what the tire tread is designed for and most tire manufactures recommend at least 4/32” to reduce hydroplaning. A new tire typically has 9/32” tread depth. This not only applies to drive tires on a truck or motorhome, but also to other tires on the steering axle as well as a trailer as water and snow needs to be channeled away to prevent a breaking loose situation when applying brakes.

Chains

Keep in mind that several states have laws requiring tire chains over certain roads during a storm. If you do not have chains, you will receive a hefty fine! Most RVers don’t carry chains as they are expensive, hard to put on, and can cause damage to the RV if they slip off. Most simply wait out the storm until the plows clear the road and they can drive normal. If you are on a time crunch, do some homework to find out what areas you might be traveling to and what you might run into for chain requirements. There are some other options such as cables and even socks that are legal in many states that are worth researching for your rig as well.

Antifreeze

Make sure your engine cooling system has the appropriate antifreeze mixture for the temperatures you will encounter. This also includes a windshield wiper antifreeze to keep the windshield from icing over. Larger motorhomes especially are difficult to keep heated and many RVers carry a bottle of windshield deicer as well. A new product in the RV Repair Club shop called Clarity Defender has been proven to reduce the amount of snow and ice buildup on windshields.

Fuel

The cheapest fuel is not always the best in the winter. Use a premium blend to reduce gas line freezing, keep the tank at least ½ full, and use an additive such as Sea Foam or other Isopropyl.

Winter Safety Kit

It’s a good idea to carry a few winter essentials in case of emergency.

Extra Winter Clothes – Gloves, Coat, Blanket
Bag of Sand, Cat Liter, or Salt
Windshield Scraper
Shovel
Flashlight
Jumper Cables
Tow Rope
Warning Triangle or LED Lights
NOAA Emergency Radio/Charger
Portable Jumper/Charger

Tips For Driving

Take it slow

Fast acceleration or stopping will cause your vehicle to break loose and loss of control. Remember, it will take you almost twice as long to stop on wet or snowy roads so adjust your speed and following distance accordingly. The National Safety Council recommends a 2 second following distance on normal roads. Most RVs take twice as long to stop, therefore requiring a 3-4 second following distance on dry roads! Factor in wet and snowy conditions and you will need twice that. Don’t be in a hurry, it’s easier to stay out of trouble than it is to get out of trouble!

NO Cruising

Don’t use cruise control on wet or snowy roads as the drive wheels can break loose easily and increase speed.

Be Prepared

Understand what happens when your vehicle does lose control or “breaks loose”. In most situations, simply taking your foot off the pedal will help correct the situation. There are two types of skids, rear wheel, and front wheel. In a rear-wheel skid, take your foot off the pedal and steer in the direction you want the vehicle to go. This is referred to as oversteer. Do not apply the brake as it will enhance the skid. A front-wheel skid typically happens when the brakes are applied. Remove your foot from the brake pedal and steer the front again to the direction you want the vehicle to go known as understeering.

Scan ahead of you and see how other vehicles are reacting. Keep a safe following distance and adjust speeds when others are having issues with driving conditions. You do not want to stop in the middle of a hill so maintain a moderate speed at a safe distance to carry you up the hill and reduce speed at the top to limit the amount of braking required when going down the hill.

Look for slippery conditions on bridges and open road areas commonly referred to as “Black Ice”.

Understand Your Brakes

If you have Anti-Locking Brake System (ABS) a sensor will provide a pulsing brake application if the tire starts to skid. This allows the wheel to start spinning again and the driver to regain control. If you have ABS brakes, keep your foot on the pedal and allow the sensor to help regain control. If you do not have ABS brakes, keep your heel on the floor and apply a slight pumping of the brakes.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Tips For Cold Weather Camping

20 Thursday Dec 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Cold weather, cold weather camping, cold weather rving, RV Camping, RV tech tips, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, Winterizing

More and more RVers are using their rigs year around, and not just in warm weather. Cold weather camping has become popular for many activities such as downhill and cross country skiing, hiking, snowmobiling, and hunting. There are even more RVers that attend hobby expos such as quilting, woodworking, and others using their RV rather than a hotel room!

No matter how you are planning to use your RV for winter camping, there are some tips and tricks you can use to make it much more enjoyable and WARM!

First, take some time to get your rig prepared for the colder weather. You will need to take measures to insulate the windows, add supplemental heating, and protect water and sewer systems.

Windows

Single pane windows will create a tremendous amount of heat loss and condensation. Dual pane windows are ideal, however you can use shrink film to add a layer of insulation or even cover the windows with a quilted cover or a material called Reflectix. Check out last month’s article on window insulation.

Fresh Water System

Make sure your fresh water tanks are protected by the on board heater or an auxiliary heat system. Some manufacturers have a 4 seasons package or winter package option that includes a heat blanket. This also pertains to the water pipes and the water pump. Even with a heated holding tank area, I typically add an auxiliary heater to this area such as a heat lamp or my preference is a small ceramic heater. This does require wiring an outlet to that area but provides peace of mind. Also make sure your water pump is protected as well if it’s not in the same compartment as the tanks.

Don’t forget about your water hose coming into the rig! You can use heat tape or a heated hose such as the Pirit all-in-one heated hose. Another option is to just fill the water tank and use the on-board water pump and not worry about the hose outside. When we camp for a short period of time in cold weather, we winterize the fresh water system and just bring several gallon jugs of water, some for drinking and cooking, others for using the toilet which we just use to manually “flush” through the top. The only down side of this is we can’t take a shower but it’s usually just an overnight, or we can use the campground facilities.

Holding Tanks

Typically holding tanks do not require heat, however you do not want them to freeze as you will have a rough time getting the valves open and frozen solids to drain. It’s a good idea to dump a gallon of RV antifreeze in the black and gray water tanks when empty as it will settle to the bottom at the valve and keep it from freezing as well as keeping the sewage from freezing inside the tank.

Most RV sewage hoses are made of soft corrugated material which can be stored at a small length but extended over 5 times in length as well as very flexible to bend around obstacles. The down side in cold weather is the ridges of the corrugated design trap small amounts of water which can freeze in the winter. It’s a good idea to dump the tanks when needed, clean the hose completely, and store it in a heated compartment. Seasoned cold weather RVers use a hard plastic (PVC) hose which has a smooth continual surface, however this is more difficult to store if you are not stationary for a long period of time.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Hydraulic Mechanisms

Electric Mechanism

Cable Slideout

Schwintek

Slide Room and Seal Maintenance

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Stovetop Maintenance

Troubleshooting The Stove Top

Troubleshooting The Oven

Intermittent Operation of Both

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Freshwater tank and on-board water pump.

City Water

Water Pump

Winterizing

Sanitizing

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RV Furnace

The order of operation for an RV furnace is as follows:

Propane Appliances

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Leveling Your Rig

Check Your Battery Voltage

Troubleshooting Guides

Troubleshooting Schwintek Slide Mechanism

Hydraulic Slide Room Troubleshooting

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Manual Jack Maintenance

Electric Jack Maintenance

Additional Tips

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Develop a checklist

Water System

RV Anti-Freeze

Remove Water With Compressed Air

Refrigerator Ice Maker

LP System

House Batteries

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Basics

Electrical

Emergency

Fluids/Sealants

Customized Items

Tool Box

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Prepare Your Vehicle

Tips For Driving

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Windows

Fresh Water System

Holding Tanks

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