It’s finally time to pull the travel trailer out of storage and get back out on the road to enjoy some camping! That said, you will want to make sure to take care of some basic maintenance tasks before you head out.
Not sure what kinds of maintenance tasks you need to be doing? You’ve come to the right place! In this article, I will discuss all of the most important trailer maintenance tasks that my husband and I try to make a point of staying on top of.
Resealing the Seams and Roof
Easily the most important travel trailer maintenance task there is, resealing the seams and roof of your trailer is a must-do at least every 12 months. This is so, so important because those seals are what keeps water out of your RV walls and roof. Water damage happens quickly and is difficult and expensive to fix. Fortunately, resealing is relatively easy.
To reseal the seams on the roof and sides of your trailer:
Clean each seal to remove dirt and loose bits.
Apply RV sealant over each seam, making sure to cover the entire seam.
Allow to cure.
Slide Maintenance
You’ll also want to take good care of your slides. Make sure to lubricate the slide mechanisms every couple of months. It’s also a good idea to keep an eye on the slide seals. These rubber pieces wear out over time, but replacing them is as simple as sliding them out of place and sliding a new set in.
Maintaining the Water System
Your RV water system does need a bit of maintenance from time to time as well. For one thing, it is super important that you winterize the system before the first freeze of the year. Replacing the anode rod in your water heater (if it has one) is also a must-do. Additionally, you’ll want to use a back-spray tool to clean the waste tanks after each trip and clean the fresh tank and lines once a year.
To clean the fresh system:
Pour a bleach-and-water mixture (¼ cup bleach to 15 gallons of water) into the tank.
Pump it through the lines using the RV water pump.
Allow it to sit for 12–24 hours.
Drain the system completely.
Add clean water to the tank.
Run it through the system.
Drain it all again.
Checking the Tires
Your RV tires are crucial. Without them you aren’t going anywhere, and if one happens to give out while you’re on the highway, it can be incredibly dangerous.
Check tires before every trip, looking for cracks, bubbles, etc.
Install a trailer TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system).
Replace tires at least every six years.
Use tire covers when parked for long periods of time.
Greasing the Wheel Bearings
Many trailer owners are not aware that they should be greasing the wheel bearings once a year. Now, I’ll be honest and say I’ve never done this particular job myself, because we always take it into a shop to have it done. That said, we have friends who do the job on their own and they don’t seem to have an issue.
The video below explains the process:
Brake Maintenance
Last but not least, I have to mention brake maintenance, which is very important for obvious reasons.
Inspect the brake pads, rotors, and drums for issues at least once a year, replacing worn parts as needed.
Test the brakes before hitting the road each trip. If they don’t engage properly, skip the outing and address the problem first.
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, look at the brake fluid before each trip and top it off as needed.
As you can see, owning a travel trailer does require quite a bit of maintenance work. That said, we find that it’s totally worth the freedom that comes along with it! I think you’ll probably agree.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.
Looking to jump into the world of RVing? Unless you plan on investing in a motorhome, you’ll have to have a truck to tow your trailer or carry your truck camper. If you’re on a budget, this will likely mean buying a used truck.
Fortunately, there are plenty of amazing trucks on the used truck market, and finding a gem is totally possible. That said, there are some things you should know before buying a used truck that will help ensure you get one that will work for you.
Below are our top tips for those who are looking into buying a used truck.
Know Your Weights and Capacities
First and foremost, it is incredibly important that you learn the weight of your camper when it is loaded, as well as the hitch weight. Take that information and check the towing capacity and payload capacity, as well as the gross vehicle weight limit, of any truck you are considering to make sure it can handle your RV.
You might be surprised to learn just how few campers can be towed by a half-ton truck—there is a LOT of misinformation about this floating around out there—and depending on the RV you want, you might find yourself shopping for a three-quarter-ton or even a one-ton instead.
Mileage Matters
The next thing to think about when looking at trucks? The mileage. Most heavy duty trucks can keep on running for quite a long time if they are taken care of. In fact, you can probably get 250,000 or even 300,000 miles out of a three-quarter-ton truck if you plan your cards right. Still, lower mileage is better and we highly recommend looking for a truck with 150,000 miles or less.
Find Out How it was Used
If you can, find out how the truck you’re looking at was used. Was it a work truck? If so, you can expect issues to arise that have to do with rough usage and lots of dirt. Was it used to tow heavy loads? If so, pay careful attention to the transmission—making sure it’s shifting smoothly without hiccups—as towing is hard on transmissions.
Listen for Weird Sounds
One of the quickest ways to discover if something is wrong with a vehicle is to listen for weird sounds. While test-driving trucks, turn off the radio, roll down the windows, and really focus on the sound of the engine, suspension, and other parts of the truck. If you hear anything funny, make a note of it so you can ask your mechanic about it before purchasing.
Look for Leaks
Leaks are another thing that can tell you that something might be wrong with the vehicle you’re looking at. When you arrive, look under the truck for puddles and stains. During your test drive, pull over in a parking lot and look under the truck, watching carefully for any drips and smelling for burning smells or coolant. Again, take notes if you see anything that might be an issue and pass those notes on to your mechanic.
Check Out the Tires
Truck tires are pricey. While old or worn tires certainly are not a deal breaker, you might want to ask the seller to lower the price if it looks like the tires will need to be replaced right away. To check the tires, look at the tread depth, check the tires for gouges or cracks, and find the date of manufacture to make sure the tires are not expired.
Test Everything
While sitting in the cab of the truck, test absolutely everything. Turn on the A/C and make sure it blows cold, then switch it to the heater to make sure the furnace blows hot. Move the seat forward and back and lean it up and down. Do the same on the passenger side, check all window buttons and lock buttons on both sides of the truck, and turn the radio on to make sure it plays. You can also test the cruise control and 4×4 while out driving.
Have It Inspected
If you find a truck that can tow your RV and seems to run well, hire your mechanic to come and have a look. Point out any noises, smells, leaks, or other little quirks you may have noticed and ask their opinion on them. Only go through with the sale if your mechanic approves of the condition of the vehicle.
As you can see, there are a lot of things to keep in mind when buying a used truck. This might seem overwhelming, but trust us when we say that remembering these tips might just save you from a lot of headaches down the line.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
G.B. ~ “Everyone was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Y’all had real-life experiences to add to your answers to our questions. It was a great relief to speak with you!”
For years, Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries were the standard for deep-cycle RV batteries. The only decisions that needed to be made were 12-volt or 6-volt and how many Amp Hours (Ah) were needed. FLA batteries have lead plates suspended in electrolytes in individual cells and are the cheapest, but require more maintenance. They gas when recharging and require more distilled water to be added frequently. 6-volt batteries have three cells that produce 2.1-volts and require two batteries connected positive to negative, in series to create a 12-volt bank. This however does not double Amp Hours.
12-volt batteries have six cells, each producing 2.1-volts and can run a smaller rig with just one battery.
In the mid-80s Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries were being developed for the military as they were less prone to sulfation, required no maintenance especially distilled water being added, and lasted longer. They also have positive and negative plates and electrolytes however fiberglass mats are placed between the plates and absorb the liquid. AGM batteries started showing up in the RV world sometime in the late 1980s as the demand for 12-volt power grew. There were also challenges with placement and since the AGM battery is completely sealed there was no maintenance and no leakage. Plus the gases that are produced are kept internally rather than vented so they can be placed almost anywhere.
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFeP04) batteries have individual cells with no gassing and can be drained 100% of available amp hours. They do require a higher charging voltage and are much more expensive.
FLA and AGM batteries should only be drained to 50% Ah and discharging them lower than that will reduce the life expectancy. A fully charged FLA and AGM battery should read 12.6-volts and the misconception is a 50% drained battery is not 6.3-volts. Here is the discharge chart.
Voltage – FLA State Of Charge Voltage – AGM
12.6-Volts 100% 13.0-Volts
12.5-Volts 90% 12.75-Volts
12.42-Volts 80% 12.5-Volts
12.32-Volts 70% 12.3-Volts
12.2-Volts 60% 12.15-Volts
12.06-Volts 50% 12.05-Volts
11.9-Volts 40% 11.95-Volts
11.75-Volts 30% 11.81-Volts
11.58-Volts 20% 11.66-Volts
11.31-Volts 10% 11.51-Volts
10.5-Volts 0% 10.5-Volts
A FLA battery that is discharged to only 50% should last 300-500 cycles while an AGM battery can last 600-1000 cycles. Lithium Batteries can cycle anywhere from 2,000-10,000 and several of the high-line brands are guaranteed for 10 years and some even for a lifetime! If they are maintained and charged properly!
Proper Charging Profile
As an FLA battery is drained, sulfur coats the plates and needs to be conditioned or desulfated. A typical RV converter charges the battery at 13.6 volts until it reaches 12.6 volts and then drops to a maintenance charge of 13.2 volts. This does not break up the sulfation and the sulfation will thicken on the plates and the battery will not hold a charge or last as long as it is designed. FLA batteries require an initial bulk charge of 14 volts or higher and then an equalizing and float charge. Only a multi-stage charger will condition FLA batteries properly. This can be done with an inverter/charger or even a solar panel with a charge controller.
Winnebago Industries has worked with Progressive Dynamics to engineer their charger to put out 13.8 volts for 8 hours to condition FLA batteries. Other converters like the PD 9300 have programable charge profiles to customize the voltage for specific battery types.
The challenge with AGM batteries is every manufacturer seems to have a different charge profile and they can not agree on what is best. Recently I contacted my “Go To” guy at Progressive Dynamics and he stated that they have been working with battery companies and RV manufacturers for over 20 years trying to standardize charge profiles to best maintain batteries.
For example, the Go Power “Solar” AGM battery wants 14.4 V – 15.0 V for the initial charge then a float or maintenance charge of 13.5 V – 13.8 V. You can find the charge profile in the specification sheets.
Trojan Batteries require 14.4 V and a float of 13.5 V, and most don’t even give the parameters such as Interstate which is a popular replacement for RV owners.
What this means is that your typical deck-mounted converter/charger like this WFCO will not fully charge an AGM battery and could cause sulfation even though many brands advertise that AGM is not prone to sulfation!
Progressive Dynamics has introduced their 9300 Series which can be programmed for the different charge profiles.
Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) Mode
The patented Charge Wizard 4-stage system uses microprocessor technology to add intelligent charging capability. It constantly monitors the RV battery and automatically adjusts the converter output voltage based on the battery’s charge status – designed to eliminate battery over & under-charging problems associated with most other battery chargers and provide rapid yet safe battery recharging after dry camping. The Charge Wizard constantly monitors battery voltage and battery usage and then selects one of the following four operating modes to properly charge and maintain the battery. BOOST Mode 14.4 Volts – Rapidly brings the RV battery up to 90% of full charge. This mode is maintained for 4 hours. NORMAL Mode 13.6 Volts – Safely completes the charge. If light activity is detected after 33 hours in this mode, the Wizard switches to the storage mode. STORAGE Mode 13.2 Volts – Maintains charge with minimal gassing or water loss. EQUALIZATION Mode 14.4 Volts – Every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes prevents battery stratification & sulfation – the leading cause of battery failure. This functions as part of the Storage mode
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Profile
BULK Mode 14.0 Volts – Initial charge to 70% State of Charge. Occurring at startup, this procedure will last for 2 hours.
ABSORPTION Mode 14.7 Volts – Finish charge to 100% State of Charge. Running for a minimum of 1 hour, after which the converter switches to “FLOAT” mode when either the current drops below a preset limit or times out at 4 hours.
FLOAT Mode 13.6 Volts – Maintains charge. The converter will stay in this mode indefinitely as long as the converter has AC power. Once a week “DESULFATION” mode will activate for 1 hour then revert back to “FLOAT” mode.
DESULFATION Mode 14.7 Volts – Once a week for 1 hour to prevent sulfation and refresh the battery charge. This occurs as part of the “FLOAT” mode operation.
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFeP04)
Although the optimum charging voltage for the LFP battery is 14.6 VDC, many manufacturers are specifying a charge voltage of less than 14.6 volts and setting the high voltage cutoff at 14.6 volts through the Battery Management System (BMS). In general, this is not a user-adjustable function. Progressive Dynamics has run numerous tests at 14.4 volts showing that the battery can receive a full charge at the converter rating. Progressive Dynamics has developed a Lithium multi-stage charging profile with the ability to monitor the voltage and current. This allows the Charge Wizard to select the correct charging voltage as needed while providing DC power to the RV. These are automatic functions. The Charge Wizard will properly charge and maintain the battery while providing safe operating voltages within the RV.
CHARGE Mode 14.4 VDC – Initial charge to full. Automatically selected at start-up. After 1 hour and the current drops off, or 8 hours of charging has elapsed, the charger switches to
IDLE MODE. IDLE Mode 13.6v VDC – This is a nominal voltage for an RV connected to shore power. This mode is continuous but will revert to CHARGE if the power demand is high or AC power is reapplied.
REFRESH Mode 14.4 VDC – Occurring during IDLE mode. Once every three weeks, a charge voltage is applied for 1 hour to refresh the battery.
So to get the ultimate life out of whatever type of deep cycle battery you have or looking to replace your existing battery with, it is important to do a little research regarding what voltage is required for initial charging and the charge profile. Some of the “big box” store batteries don’t show a charge profile or any other information as they don’t want your batteries lasting 5-7 years, rather see you come back in 2-3 years and buy more batteries. You really do get what you pay for!
About the author:Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Karl P. ~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires and checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”
Your RV air conditioner is crucial for camping in comfort during the summer months. Unfortunately, these units need repairs once in a while. If your RV AC is giving you problems, try the troubleshooting tips below to get it back up and running.
Lack of Power
If you don’t have any power at all to the AC, there are a couple of simple things you should try before you panic.
Plug-In
First, check your RV plug. Make sure it is plugged all the way into the outlet and there is no damage to the cable going into the RV.
Flip the Breaker
You’ll also want to check the breakers both at the power pole and in the RV breaker box. If a breaker is flipped, switch it back.
Warm Air
Having issues with warm air coming from your RV AC? Here are a couple of things to look at as you try to narrow down the issue.
Check the Capacitors
A capacitor could very well be the culprit. Make sure you discharge your capacitors completely using a discharge tool before testing each one with a multimeter. A bad capacitor is something you can probably replace on your own.
Check the Compressor
It’s also possible for a compressor to cause this issue. Test your compressor with the multimeter. If it is your problem, you’ll want to replace the entire AC unit rather than attempting to replace the part.
Weak Airflow
Warm air is bad, but so is weak airflow. Here’s what you need to test if you don’t have enough air coming from your RV air conditioner.
Look for Freezing
A frozen RV AC will put out very little air. To fix, turn the air conditioner to fan-only mode and run it on high until the ice in the unit melts. If the air conditioner continues to freeze up, you may need to clean the coils and filter.
Look for Clogs
Another problem to look for? Clogged coils or a super dirty air filter. Clean both and then test the unit to see if the airflow gets stronger.
Cover Cracks and Holes
Use a flashlight to take a peek at your ductwork. See a place where air could be escaping? Cover it with metal tape and/or styrofoam to see if that improves things.
Check the Fan
Obviously, it could be that the fan is having issues. Try cleaning and oiling the fan. If this doesn’t work, it might be time for a fan motor replacement.
Excessive Cycling
If your compressor is cycling on and off often, you’re probably dealing with a unit that doesn’t cool properly. Here are some steps to take.
Check the Capacitors
The capacitors will need to be tested in this case as well. Just make sure you discharge them first. If you find that one is bad, replace it.
Look for Ice
Once again, freezing could be the problem. If you find ice in your AC, use the tips above to defrost it and then clean everything to ensure the problem doesn’t return.
Have Parts Professionally Tested
Unfortunately, the other likely surprises are a bad thermostat or a bad control board. It’s best to call a pro in to fix these things.
Dripping Water
Sometimes water will drip from an RV air conditioner. This is never a good thing, but can have a few different causes.
Clean the Drain Pan
A clogged drain pan doesn’t allow water to run where it is supposed to. Instead, it will sometimes run into your rig. Fix this by cleaning the pan and removing the clogs.
Clean the Coils
A unit that freezes up will send bits of water to the floor as the frozen coils thaw out. Clean the coils and filter to try to prevent freezing.
Tighten Things Up
If your AC mounting bolts are loose, they will not hold the gasket snugly in place. This will allow rainwater to find its way under the gasket and into the RV. Tighten the bolts to fix the issue.
Smelly Air Conditioner
RV air conditioners can develop a cave-like smell if the coils or filter become too dirty. Wash both of these things to get rid of any musty smells that may be bothering you while running the AC.
Weird Noises
Pretty much every RV air conditioner out there is going to make some noise. That said, if your AC starts making a new weird noise, you will want to investigate.
Check the Fan
First, check to see if anything is in the way of the fan. Clean the fan and add a bit of oil. If this doesn’t fix your problem and you’re certain the fan is making the noise, you’re probably looking at replacing the fan entirely.
Get Rid of Vibrations
Vibrations on the roof will definitely cause some strange noises inside your RV. Make sure the AC shroud is bolted down tight so it can’t vibrate on the rooftop.
Test the Compressor and Capacitors
While the fan is usually the culprit when it comes to weird AC noises, the compressor or capacitors can make sounds if they are going out. Test both to make sure they aren’t your problem, making sure to discharge the capacitors beforehand.
There you have it, everything you need to know about RV air conditioner troubleshooting. Now you can solve your AC problems and camp in comfort all summer long!
May contain affiliate links.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
James L. ~ “Outstanding. Agents make or break the company. They definitely made it with me!!! OUTSTANDING service. Precise answers. Coach-Net turned a stressful situation into a non-stressful learning experience.”
One of the challenges of writing any technical content for RVers is being able to provide information that is specific to the individual type of RV one has. Since there have been over 100 different RV companies over the years and even more models within those individual companies, it becomes difficult to provide information on every individual scenario without being too generic or too specific to one type which means the information does not pertain to a wide majority.
And so it is with slide room maintenance. Slide rooms were introduced in travel trailers and 5th Wheels as far back as the 1970s and the “Power Slide” was invented and introduced in 1990 by Newmar. Most other companies joined the slide-out craze a few years later with a variety of new mechanisms such as HWH, Power Gear, and others. Since then there have been both hydraulic and electric mechanisms from companies such as Kwikee, RBW Industries, and more recently, Lippert Components Inc (LCI) which has purchased Power Gear, Kwikee, BAL Accu-Slide, and others.
Hydraulic Mechanisms
Typically a hydraulic slide-out mechanism uses a pump that that is often shared with the hydraulic leveling jacks if equipped. It has a fluid reservoir and pumps the fluid through the lines and cylinders to move the room in and out. There is little maintenance required of the pump other than making sure the fluid level is checked and topped off with the recommended hydraulic fluid.
The actual mechanisms vary between manufacturers, HWH uses two telescoping rams with a synchronizing rod. HWH recommends periodically cleaning the rams with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated. One note: run the room all the way to the extended and retracted position, do not stop part-way!
Lippert Components Inc (LCI) uses an inner and outer assembly with a drive tube. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated and to visually inspect all components for debris, dirt buildup, and bent parts. If you experience a squeaking noise during operation apply a coat of lightweight oil and wipe off the excess and DO NOT USE GREASE!
Several manufacturers have used the RWB Industries motor (owned by Dexter) and a proprietary gear-driven mechanism such as Newmar, National RV, and others. Since there are so many different mechanisms used, it’s a safe bet to run the unit a couple of times a year, visually inspect the components, and verify what lubricant your manufacturer recommends to clean and lubricate the gears and arms.
Electric Mechanism
Smaller, lightweight rooms use a more inexpensive electric motor, especially models that do not have hydraulic leveling jacks that could utilize the jack motor. Once again there are several options such as the cable slides (BAL Acu-slide), Schwintek with small motors in the sidewall and a gear-driven track, or a standard mechanism with an electric motor.
The electric motor requires no maintenance other than having 12-volt power to the unit. The cable systems do require a periodic visual inspection to make sure the cable is not sagging, loose, or frayed.
Cable Slideout
It is also a good idea to visually inspect all components for debris or obstructions and clean out any tracks with fluid film, a spray product available at O’Reilly Auto Parts. This is a rust inhibitor and will not damage rubber seals. Make sure to wipe off any excess spray.
Schwintek
The Schwintek slideout mechanism can develop a grinding or squeaking noise and it is recommended to spray CRC Power Lube with PTFE on the rails as well as the gibbs and motor coupler. These can be found by pulling back the rubber seal outside at the rails.
Slide Room and Seal Maintenance
Most slide rooms or the “Box” are fairly similar, the outer wall cut out of or built from the same material as the sidewall, laminated side/top/bottom panels. These do not require much maintenance other than making sure there is no debris on the top of the slide room when you bring it back in! Some manufacturers have an awning over the slide room to keep sticks and other debris from falling on the top which would tear the bulb seal during retraction. If you do not have an awning cover, you need to clean off the top every time you retract the room!
LEVEL THE COACH BEFORE RETRACTING THE SLIDE! I’m amazed at how many companies do not have this as a standard operating procedure? RV chassis are not rock solid, they will bend and twist in an unlevel situation which causes the sidewall to twist which creates additional pressure or binding as the square box is trying to go out of an unsquared opening.
All slideout rooms have a weather strip or seal around the opening of the sidewall. Some use a two-part rubber gasket or seal applied both inside the rig and outside. Others use a two-sided bulb seal that is applied to the flange of the sidewall. In either case, it’s a good idea to condition the seal with an approved product such as the ProtectAll SlideOut Rubber Seal Treatment or ProtectAll All Surface Care.
Both products have UV protection that will help keep the rubber seal from weather checking and reduce friction.
Visually inspect the underside of the slide room both inside and out. Look for obstructions or any signs of wear and tear. Most use a roller or glide underneath, make sure there is no damage to the mechanism or the floor.
And finally, make sure you look for items around the side of the room inside such as lawn chairs or other items that might have been placed or stored when packing up the camper. You can not believe what a mess a boxed wine container makes when the room is extended!
About the author:
Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Ken S. ~ “I’ve had to use Coach-Net Roadside twice since signing up. Your response is fast and you follow up to make sure the towing company showed up during the window quoted. It’s great!”
Hopefully, by now, you’ve winterized your RV for the season. But did you do it correctly? The answer to this question is a very important one because there are a number of very common RV winterization mistakes that could cause pretty costly damage to your rig. Obviously, you will want to avoid these, and that’s why we’re here today.
In this article we will discuss the most common RV winterization mistakes that you can make, and why you definitely don’t want to make them.
Mistake 1: Putting Antifreeze Where It Doesn’t Belong
This one won’t actually cause any damage to your RV over the winter. That said, putting RV antifreeze in the wrong places still isn’t something you want to do. The two places this stuff shouldn’t go when winterizing your RV water system? The freshwater tank and the water heater.
You see, if you happen to fill these two tanks with antifreeze, you will have a hard time getting it all out at the end of the winter. On top of that, you’ll be left with water that tastes of antifreeze for a long time after the stuff has been emptied out of your system. Lastly, filling these tanks would take gallons and gallons of antifreeze, making your RV winterization process a costly one.
Mistake 2: Not Running the Outdoor Shower
You don’t want RV antifreeze in your water heater tank or your freshwater tank, but you absolutely do want it to run through all of your water lines. The way to do this is to open each tap (and the toilet) until the water that runs out is pink.
Unfortunately, many people forget to head outside and run antifreeze through the outdoor shower as well. This means that the water lines to the outdoor shower—as well as the shower head and faucet itself—are left to freeze during the winter, and you could be left with leaks, plumbing repairs, and possibly even costly water damage to your RV as a result.
Mistake 3: Forgetting the Wastewater Tanks
Another place some people forget to put RV antifreeze when going through the RV winterization process? The waste water tanks. While you certainly don’t have to fill the entire waste tanks with antifreeze, it is still a good idea to dump a few cups of the stuff down the tanks to keep any water that might remain there from freezing.
If you are using the tanks throughout the winter, be sure to add more antifreeze each time you dump. It’s also a good idea to up the amount of antifreeze you use based on how much water is in the tanks.
Mistake 4: Leaving the Batteries in Place
RV batteries will drain over time. In some cases, parasitic draws that are found in many RVs will cause this to happen fairly quickly. That said, even if you unhook the batteries entirely, they will eventually be drained. This is a problem because while charged batteries won’t freeze, dead batteries will. Besides, it’s bad for batteries to be drained completely.
To avoid dead (and potentially frozen) batteries, simply remove them from the RV and store somewhere above freezing. Put them on a trickle charger to keep them charged up and ready to go, and your batteries should be in good shape for next camping season.
Mistake 5: Inviting Pests to Your RV
Okay, so you probably aren’t going to invite mice and other critters to make themselves at home in your RV on purpose. That said, forgetting to plug up small holes where the animals can enter is pretty much as good as inviting them in. Add in any food that you forgot to grab out of the pantry, and you’re almost certainly going to return to an infestation.
To be safe, make sure to remove all food from the RV (keep in mind, canned goods can actually freeze and burst, so those need to go in as well). Plug up all possible entry points with steel wool (mice can fit in holes the size of a dime) and consider using a mouse deterrent to keep the critters at bay.
Mistake 6: Skipping the Seals
One thing you absolutely do not want to return to when the weather warms up? Leaks and water damage. For this reason, it is incredibly important that you go over all of the seals on your RV before putting it in storage. Reseal anything that looks cracked or worn, and make sure your slide seals are in good shape. You might also consider storing the rig under cover for extra measure.
Did you make any of these RV winterization mistakes? If so, be sure to head out to your trailer or motorhome as soon as possible in order to fix the problem so you can rest easy knowing your RV will be in good shape when the spring rolls around.
May contain affiliate links.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
Dalton R. ~ “No improvements needed! I’ve called several times and found the help I need every time! Extremely satisfied with the service. I’m a technician so being able to get ideas and where everything is I can usually get it fixed up. Overall VERY pleased with this service!”
Winter is upon us and even if you are one of the lucky RVers that goes South for the winter, temperatures can get below freezing and you want the RV furnace to be in tip-top shape. That means doing a little preventative maintenance.
Most RVers take the furnace for granted as there are typically no filters or lengthy ductwork like the residential models. We just turn the thermostat to the desired temperature and wait for the heat to kick on.
Forced air furnaces such as the Suburban and Dometic brands have either ducted vents going through the rig, or direct airflow coming from the unit. They all operate fairly similarly and should have some basic maintenance performed occasionally.
How The Furnace Works
When the temperature drops to the set point on the thermostat, 12-volt power is sent to the module board on the furnace which starts the fan or blower. It is important to have fully charged house batteries or plugged into shoreline power as the blower motor will start but the gas valve will not open unless there is sufficient power to provide airflow, more on that later.
The fan draws outside air in through the vent purging the burner chamber and exhausting it outside so no outside air enters the rig. The fan also draws interior air through the cold air return and routes it over the burner assembly, past the sail switch, and out to the vents. This air-lifts the sail switch until it gets to the “closed” point, which sends 12-volt power to the module board letting it know there is sufficient airflow and to open the gas valve. Low batteries or insufficient airflow will not lift the switch to the closed position and therefore the furnace will not light. However, it will continue to blow cold air until the battery goes completely dead.
Once there is sufficient airflow and the sail switch gets to the closed position, the gas valve opens and the spark ignitor lights the furnace.
It is important to inspect and clean the exterior intake and exhaust vents so there is no obstruction. Mud daubers and spiders like the smell of propane and can clog up the vent and restrict airflow. There are even aftermarket screens available that will help keep them out without restricting airflow.
Make sure all vents and ductwork are clear and there is good airflow. Do not cover or close vents inside the rig as this will reduce airflow and keep the sail switch from rising or even increase the temperature at the furnace which would create the limit switch to shut off the furnace. Make sure any ductwork weaving through cabinetry or under the sofa is not kinked or obstructed.
If you see excessive black soot on the outside exhaust vent, it could be a sign of improper combustion due to low LP pressure, improper air-to-LP mixture, a dirty burner chamber, or other issues. It is a good idea to have the furnace cleaned and inspected periodically by a certified RV Service Center.
Supplemental Heat
Keep in mind that your RV furnace can only provide a limited amount of heat and trying to heat the entire rig as well as the lower compartments in basement models may not be possible. Using a supplemental heating system helps customize the heat zones and extends the LP life as well. Catalytic heaters such as the Camco Olympian or Mr. Heater allow you to drop the overall temperature down to 60 degrees or lower and just heat the portion of the RV you are using such as the living room during the day or bedroom at night. No need to keep the entire rig at 70 degrees.
These heaters are safe and produce very little moisture or carbon monoxide. They can be portable using the small LP cylinder or hard plumbed to an existing LP system.
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
One of the most popular questions I get is “What can my truck actually tow?” It ranks just below my refrigerator isn’t cooling, my batteries are dead, my roof air conditioner isn’t running efficiently, and my slide room doesn’t work. OK, so it’s in my top five but I do get it asked quite often!
In the past, we could just look up towing capacity in the Trailer Life towing guide or the truck manufacturer towing guide. As long as we knew the cab configuration, bed length, and engine size, we could get the towing capacity at the tip of our fingers.
Then The Math Changed!
Somewhere around 2010, Toyota came out with the first half-ton truck that had a towing capacity of 10,000 lbs while all the others were at 5-7,000 lbs. My 2002 Silverado had a towing capacity of 5,000 lbs which meant I did not have a very large selection of trailers that I could tow. Truck manufacturers scrambled to reclassify towing capacity using the new math Toyota had developed. My 2002 had a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7,000 lbs and the towing capacity was 5,000 lbs which meant I had a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of 12,000 lbs. The new math is taking GCWR and subtracting the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) which is an empty truck and adding a 150 lb driver to determine towing capacity. This shifts payload weight from the tow vehicle to the trailer towing weight. Here is an example; my 2016 has a GVWR of 11,500 lbs and has a dry weight of 5,730 lbs. This means I could theoretically put 5,770 lbs of cargo into this truck which would include any passengers and cargo which is a lot of “stuff” I can bring. So with the new math, we take the 5,730 lbs of dry weight, add a 150 lb driver and it comes to 5,880 lbs, subtract it from the 11,300 lb GVWR and we have 5,620 lbs of extra weight that can be added or shifted to the trailer towing capacity. In the past, you could load your tow truck up to GVWR and then tow the published towing capacity.
What Is The Truth?
It’s hard to wade through all the postings, forums, and blogs when it comes to actual towing capacity, especially with AI and the fact that anyone can write or post anything on the internet without verification or authenticity. What I do know is that I have been working with the RV Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) for the past 25 years and trust them to be the authority when it comes to weights and towing. They have been weighing rigs for over 3 decades and working with tire manufacturers, RV manufacturers, and original equipment manufacturers (OEM) to develop weight information and even convinced the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) to require weight stickers on all units.
There still are towing guides published by Woodall’s, Good Sam, and the truck manufacturers however, they are estimates at best and do not take into account payload, cargo, and passengers. In fact, the towing capacity listed is for a standard truck with a driver of 150 lbs! According to RVSEF you need to know the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of your truck as well as the tongue weight that is on the back axle. Other factors include the GVWR of the truck as well as the GAWR of the rear wheels.
This all means taking the truck and trailer to a CAT Scale and getting it weighed which is not an easy thing to do especially if you are still in the shopping stage. To start with, I went to the RVSEF site that has several towing guides here.
The challenge I had was finding the correct specifications for my truck to look up the information in the various guides. I found the GVWR and GAWR ratings on the data label located on the driver door pillar.
I found the engine size on the label in the engine compartment that stated it was the 5.3L and it is a double door standard bed model. However what I could not find was the axle ratio and the GCWR. I went online and a Chevy source indicated the eight digit of the VIN indicated axle ratio and stated it was the 3.08 axle ratio and had a much lower trailer towing capacity as well as GCWR! To verify, I asked the Executive Director at RVSEF and he stated that most online sources do not take into account all the options and model variations. He stated the true information is found on the options label inside the glove compartment.
Going through all these three digit codes and matching the one to the RVSEF guide I found mine had the 3.42 and according to the owner’s manual, had a trailer towing capacity of 9,200 lbs and a GCWR of 15,000 lbs which I found on line and confirmed in my owner’s manual. Next I needed to weigh both the truck and trailer to make sure I wasn’t overloaded in any of the weight ratings.
Here Are The Numbers That Are Important
GCWR – Gross Combined Weight Rating
The weight of the truck with everyone and everything that will be travel plug the weight of the trailer with all cargo must not exceed the GCWR.
GVWR – Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
The weight of the truck with all passengers and cargo can not exceed the GVWR. Also, the total weight of the trailer loaded with all cargo and water must not exceed the trailer GVWR.
GAWR – Gross Axle Weight Rating
Both axles have a GAWR and must not exceed the poste GAWR for front and rear with all passengers, cargo, and the trailer connected to determine how much weight the tongue of the trailer is applying.
Tongue Weight
Drive off the scale, disconnect the trailer, and weigh the truck or tow vehicle with all passengers and cargo. Subtract this from the original GAWR of the rear axle and this will tell you how much weight is on the hitch which should be somewhere between 10-15% on trailers.
Here were the ratings I found for my truck with a 1996 Salem trailer connected.
The scale has three platforms which allows you to put the front axle on the first pad, the drive or rear axle on the second pad, and the trailer on the third which provides individual weights. This confirms that you are not over any of the weight ratings and can safely tow.
I also took the comprehensive RVSEF Matching Truck To Trailer Training Course here.
I would recommend anyone towing a trailer take the course and they are offering a discount for RV Lifestyle and Repair and Coach-Net members by using this code: RVLRTOW24
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Ray M. ~ “We’ve had a service plan with Coach-Net with 2 different RVs and we’re so glad we do. Twice in less than a month, we’ve called with tire issues. Both times your representative helped us to get back on the road in a short amount of time. Thank you from two happy campers.”
The fresh water system of your RV consists of many components starting with the fresh water tank and going all the way through to appliances such as on-demand water heaters, ice makers, and even the black tank flush valve. Getting all the water out of the pipes and components with either RV antifreeze or compressed air is crucial to reducing expensive repairs due to freezing conditions. There are several hidden areas that you will want to know about when winterizing your rig to keep your pipes from freezing over.
Your Fresh Water Tank
Almost every RV has a freshwater tank that can be filled to supply pressurized water by the onboard water pump. This is filled by a hose being fed into the gravity feed on the rig’s side. Typically a hose is connected to a pressurized outside source such as a campground faucet but can also be filled using a portable container in the case of boondocking. This picture shows the gravity feed at the top just above the city’s water fill.
Whether you choose to use RV antifreeze or compressed air, the first step is to drain the fresh water tank by using the drain valve located close to the tank itself. Some models have a large 1.5” drain valve attached directly to the tank. This photo shows the drain valve connected to a ½” plastic pipe coming off the tank which will take much longer to drain. Also, notice that there will still be an inch or more water standing at the bottom as the drain port on the tank is not at the very bottom which is typical and even though is water will freeze in the tank, it will not cause any damage as there is room for it to expand.
The Low Point Drain Valves
Next, locate the drain valves placed in the water lines that are at the lowest point in your rig called low point drain valves. These can be handle valves that have a ball inside with a hole like the above photo you turn the handle and it opens the line to drain. Other types have a pull-up and push-down valve with a ring at the top, and price leader units just have a hose coming out the bottom with a plug.
Keep in mind, that just opening the low-point drain valves will not get all the water out of your rig. There is still water in some of the lines that loop in and around lower cabinets, going to the ice maker, and the black tank flush valve.
The Water Heater
You will want to drain the water heater by removing the drain plug and turning the bypass valve if your rig has one. Suburban water heaters have an anode rod that should be inspected and replaced if the metal is over 50% deteriorated. This is also a good time to flush out the bottom of the water heater as there will be about 1.5” or more of standing water. The drain plug is not at the very bottom so the hard water full of calcium, rust, and lime typically sits in the bottom for several seasons if not flushed. Just replace the drain plug and let it sit.
(Flush Wand)
If you have an on-demand system, check your owner’s manual for recommended procedures. The Girard system by Lippert states that even using compressed air will not remove all the water in the boiler and tubes and it is recommended to flush it with RV antifreeze. The Truma Combi claims you can drain all the water out of the system and do not require RV antifreeze. And Aqua Hot also recommends draining and then flushing with RV antifreeze.
Using Compressed Air
This is my method of choice for winterizing the water system as it is easy with the correct adapter and the unit isn’t filled with the “pink stuff”. I made an adapter that allows me to connect to the city water fill valve with a ¾” air plug that I purchased from my local home improvement store.
Connect an air compressor hose and dial the compressor down to 40 psi so you don’t blow out the fittings, then open the farthest faucet and let it run until air comes out. Do this to all the faucets, shower heads, and toilets. Don’t forget the toilet flush wand, the ice maker if your refrigerator has one, and the black tank flush valve. Most of these have a remote connecting valve in the service compartment and a hose running to the actual valve on the tank. This hose can be 6’ long and will be filled with water and freezing temperatures will create a mess that is hard to get to. Keep in mind the hose going to the onboard water pump, the pump and screen itself, and the outgoing line will also have water so you will need to turn that on to drain that water as well. Then it is a good idea to dump a cup of RV antifreeze in each sink as the “P” traps will have water in them as well. If you have an icemaker, it is best to remove the filter under the sink first, shut off the valve, and then cycle the icemaker several times to get all the water out.
Using RV Antifreeze
If you have a winterizing kit or valve, adding RV antifreeze is easy and relatively mess-free. This valve is typically located in the service compartment with a hose attached. Turning the valve to winterizing reroutes the draw from the onboard water pump from the fresh water tank to the hose which can be inserted into a gallon jug of RV antifreeze. It will take more than one gallon so I typically dump 4-5 gallons in a bucket to draw from rather than inserting the hose into 4-5 jugs and risk getting air. With everything drained as covered earlier and the water heater in the bypass mode, start the pump and open the farthest faucet until you see the pink stuff. Do this to all faucets, shower heads, toilets, sprayers, and outside showers. If you have an icemaker, it is best to remove the filter under the sink first, shut off the valve, and then cycle the icemaker several times to get all the water out rather than add RV antifreeze.
If you don’t have a winterizing valve, you will need to fill the fresh water tank with enough RV antifreeze to be drawn by the water pump and this can be a little more work cleaning it out in the spring. Don’t forget the black tank flush valve during this procedure as well.
Another option if you don’t have the valve is to use a small portable pump such as a fountain pump or small sump pump and make an adapter that comes off the pump hose with a ¾” city water fill adapter. Place the pump in a 5-gallon bucket with RV antifreeze and flush the system. This is also a good adapter to have for the black tank flush valve as it can not be supplied with pressure from the city water fill or the onboard pump so you will need to connect directly to that valve with either air or RV antifreeze. This photo shows the valve on the left next to the water filter.
Properly winterizing your RV’s fresh water system is crucial to prevent costly repairs in freezing conditions. By following these steps, your freshwater pipes will remain protected during the cold months, ready for the next season’s adventures. Stay warm and keep your RV safe!
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Edward S. ~ “Coach-Net provided us with a sense of support throughout the repair process! Their communication was superb and even called ahead to our campsite to let me know about our slideout issues. There’s no better service out there!’’
RV slide toppers—these RV accessories are very common, but rarely discussed. Most RV owners don’t pay their slide toppers much mind at all until the toppers start giving them trouble.
We’re hoping to use this article to help educate RV owners everywhere about RV slide toppers. Here, we will discuss what exactly RV slide toppers are, as well as the maintenance required to keep them in tip-top shape.
What is an RV Slide Topper?
Before we go further, we should take a minute to discuss what slide toppers are. As you might have guessed, slide toppers literally top the slide. They are small awnings that jut out over each RV slide-out, protecting it from rain, hail, and debris.
They’re nice because they can help prevent the water leaks that slide-outs are infamous for. They also provide protection from the sun’s rays, helping keep your rig cooler and helping seals last longer.
Not all RVs have slide toppers though. If your rig doesn’t have them and you’d like to install a set, you should start with an RV slide topper kit like this one.
Keep Your Toppers Clean
Whether your RV slide toppers were installed aftermarket or came standard with your RV, the first step toward ensuring they last a long while is keeping them clean.
Be sure to brush any debris off before retracting the slide awnings, so that sticks and other pointy objects don’t damage the fabric. You’ll also need to clean the fabric every few months with a long-handled brush and some water mixed with dish soap in order to remove dirt and tree sap.
Try to Let the Awning Fabric Dry
If at all possible, before pulling the slide toppers in, try to let the awning fabric dry after cleaning and/or rainstorms. This shouldn’t take a long time and it will help protect your RV slide toppers from developing a layer of mold or mildew, something that is nearly impossible to get rid of.
Need to break camp in the rain? Consider putting the slides back out when you get home to let the toppers dry before you put the RV into storage.
Pull RV Slide Toppers In During High Winds
Strong winds can cause some serious damage to RV slide toppers. Not only will they blow the fabric around—potentially leading to tears—but they can also cause branches to fall from trees, something that can damage both the slide toppers and the slides themselves.
Since these are things you certainly don’t want to be dealing with while trying to enjoy a camping trip, we strongly recommend pulling your slides and slide toppers in when high winds roll through.
Note: It also doesn’t hurt to pull the slides in if heavy hail begins to fall.
Check Your RV Slide Toppers for Tears
Over time, awning fabric starts to wear out, making it very easy to tear. For this reason, it’s good to keep a close eye on the fabric, especially after a few years of use.
Each time you go to retract your slide toppers, make sure to do a quick inspection for tears. If you do find a tear, repair it with some awning tape before you pull the slide in, as retracting the awning with a tear can actually cause further damage.
Replace RV Slide Topper Fabric as Needed
No matter how well you care for your RV slide toppers, there will come a time when the fabric really does need to be replaced rather than just repaired.
The good news? This is a job you can likely do yourself with the help of a friend or family member. Better yet, most replacement RV slide topper fabric is thicker and more durable than the topper fabric they use in the RV factories, meaning you should get even more life out of your RV slide toppers once you replace the fabric.
The video below gives easy-to-follow instructions on replacing your RV slide topper fabric.
There you have it! Everything you need to know to take excellent care of a set of RV slide toppers. Be sure to add these tasks to your RV maintenance list so you can continue to enjoy the benefits of these awesome RV accessories for years to come.
May contain affiliate links.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
Sandra L. ~ “Both times we’ve had to call Coach-Net, they have been very friendly, compassionate, and helpful. This last time the representative even called me back to say he talked to his manager and they would help us even more by paying part of the second service call fee. Unexpected and amazing!”
