It’s finally time to pull the travel trailer out of storage and get back out on the road to enjoy some camping! That said, you will want to make sure to take care of some basic maintenance tasks before you head out.
Not sure what kinds of maintenance tasks you need to be doing? You’ve come to the right place! In this article, I will discuss all of the most important trailer maintenance tasks that my husband and I try to make a point of staying on top of.
Resealing the Seams and Roof
Easily the most important travel trailer maintenance task there is, resealing the seams and roof of your trailer is a must-do at least every 12 months. This is so, so important because those seals are what keeps water out of your RV walls and roof. Water damage happens quickly and is difficult and expensive to fix. Fortunately, resealing is relatively easy.
To reseal the seams on the roof and sides of your trailer:
Clean each seal to remove dirt and loose bits.
Apply RV sealant over each seam, making sure to cover the entire seam.
Allow to cure.
Slide Maintenance
You’ll also want to take good care of your slides. Make sure to lubricate the slide mechanisms every couple of months. It’s also a good idea to keep an eye on the slide seals. These rubber pieces wear out over time, but replacing them is as simple as sliding them out of place and sliding a new set in.
Maintaining the Water System
Your RV water system does need a bit of maintenance from time to time as well. For one thing, it is super important that you winterize the system before the first freeze of the year. Replacing the anode rod in your water heater (if it has one) is also a must-do. Additionally, you’ll want to use a back-spray tool to clean the waste tanks after each trip and clean the fresh tank and lines once a year.
To clean the fresh system:
Pour a bleach-and-water mixture (¼ cup bleach to 15 gallons of water) into the tank.
Pump it through the lines using the RV water pump.
Allow it to sit for 12–24 hours.
Drain the system completely.
Add clean water to the tank.
Run it through the system.
Drain it all again.
Checking the Tires
Your RV tires are crucial. Without them you aren’t going anywhere, and if one happens to give out while you’re on the highway, it can be incredibly dangerous.
Check tires before every trip, looking for cracks, bubbles, etc.
Install a trailer TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system).
Replace tires at least every six years.
Use tire covers when parked for long periods of time.
Greasing the Wheel Bearings
Many trailer owners are not aware that they should be greasing the wheel bearings once a year. Now, I’ll be honest and say I’ve never done this particular job myself, because we always take it into a shop to have it done. That said, we have friends who do the job on their own and they don’t seem to have an issue.
The video below explains the process:
Brake Maintenance
Last but not least, I have to mention brake maintenance, which is very important for obvious reasons.
Inspect the brake pads, rotors, and drums for issues at least once a year, replacing worn parts as needed.
Test the brakes before hitting the road each trip. If they don’t engage properly, skip the outing and address the problem first.
If your trailer has hydraulic brakes, look at the brake fluid before each trip and top it off as needed.
As you can see, owning a travel trailer does require quite a bit of maintenance work. That said, we find that it’s totally worth the freedom that comes along with it! I think you’ll probably agree.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.
Looking to jump into the world of RVing? Unless you plan on investing in a motorhome, you’ll have to have a truck to tow your trailer or carry your truck camper. If you’re on a budget, this will likely mean buying a used truck.
Fortunately, there are plenty of amazing trucks on the used truck market, and finding a gem is totally possible. That said, there are some things you should know before buying a used truck that will help ensure you get one that will work for you.
Below are our top tips for those who are looking into buying a used truck.
Know Your Weights and Capacities
First and foremost, it is incredibly important that you learn the weight of your camper when it is loaded, as well as the hitch weight. Take that information and check the towing capacity and payload capacity, as well as the gross vehicle weight limit, of any truck you are considering to make sure it can handle your RV.
You might be surprised to learn just how few campers can be towed by a half-ton truck—there is a LOT of misinformation about this floating around out there—and depending on the RV you want, you might find yourself shopping for a three-quarter-ton or even a one-ton instead.
Mileage Matters
The next thing to think about when looking at trucks? The mileage. Most heavy duty trucks can keep on running for quite a long time if they are taken care of. In fact, you can probably get 250,000 or even 300,000 miles out of a three-quarter-ton truck if you plan your cards right. Still, lower mileage is better and we highly recommend looking for a truck with 150,000 miles or less.
Find Out How it was Used
If you can, find out how the truck you’re looking at was used. Was it a work truck? If so, you can expect issues to arise that have to do with rough usage and lots of dirt. Was it used to tow heavy loads? If so, pay careful attention to the transmission—making sure it’s shifting smoothly without hiccups—as towing is hard on transmissions.
Listen for Weird Sounds
One of the quickest ways to discover if something is wrong with a vehicle is to listen for weird sounds. While test-driving trucks, turn off the radio, roll down the windows, and really focus on the sound of the engine, suspension, and other parts of the truck. If you hear anything funny, make a note of it so you can ask your mechanic about it before purchasing.
Look for Leaks
Leaks are another thing that can tell you that something might be wrong with the vehicle you’re looking at. When you arrive, look under the truck for puddles and stains. During your test drive, pull over in a parking lot and look under the truck, watching carefully for any drips and smelling for burning smells or coolant. Again, take notes if you see anything that might be an issue and pass those notes on to your mechanic.
Check Out the Tires
Truck tires are pricey. While old or worn tires certainly are not a deal breaker, you might want to ask the seller to lower the price if it looks like the tires will need to be replaced right away. To check the tires, look at the tread depth, check the tires for gouges or cracks, and find the date of manufacture to make sure the tires are not expired.
Test Everything
While sitting in the cab of the truck, test absolutely everything. Turn on the A/C and make sure it blows cold, then switch it to the heater to make sure the furnace blows hot. Move the seat forward and back and lean it up and down. Do the same on the passenger side, check all window buttons and lock buttons on both sides of the truck, and turn the radio on to make sure it plays. You can also test the cruise control and 4×4 while out driving.
Have It Inspected
If you find a truck that can tow your RV and seems to run well, hire your mechanic to come and have a look. Point out any noises, smells, leaks, or other little quirks you may have noticed and ask their opinion on them. Only go through with the sale if your mechanic approves of the condition of the vehicle.
As you can see, there are a lot of things to keep in mind when buying a used truck. This might seem overwhelming, but trust us when we say that remembering these tips might just save you from a lot of headaches down the line.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
G.B. ~ “Everyone was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Y’all had real-life experiences to add to your answers to our questions. It was a great relief to speak with you!”
Most RV campsites out there have a power pedestal not too far from the RV pad. This makes it easy to plug in using only the power cord that comes with your RV. That said, there are times when the power pedestal is set far away from the pad, and in these cases, an RV extension cord might be necessary.
If you’re in a spot where an RV extension cord is required, there are a few things you should know.
Choosing an RV Extension Cord
If you need to extend the length of your RV power cord, avoid using a typical household extension cord. These cords cannot handle the amperage an RV requires, will quickly become overheated, and could even melt or catch fire.
Instead, you will need to purchase an RV extension cord—a cord made specifically for use with an RV. Here’s what you should look for as you shop.
Amperage
First, you must make sure you purchase a cord with the correct amperage. If your RV requires 30 amps or 50 amps, buy a corresponding RV extension cord. To determine which amperage you need, take a look at the RV plug. If it has three prongs, it is a 30-amp cord, while four-prong plugs indicate the RV is a 50-amp rig.
Length
Choosing an RV extension cord length can be tricky. Obviously, you want a cord that reaches where you need it to, but it is also important that the cord is not overly long.
This is because long cable runs can create dangerous and damaging voltage drops. It goes without saying that this isn’t good, so go as short as you can while still giving yourself enough slack to reach the outlet, and generally avoid extension cords that are more than 50 feet long.
Durability
Finally, you will, of course, want to purchase something that will last a long time. Make sure to read reviews before buying an RV extension cord to ensure you get a high-quality product that will last a long time.
The Best RV Extension Cords
Still not sure what to buy? Our favorite option is the Camco Power Grip cord with a locking end. We love that the end locks into place and that the plug comes with a handle, making it easy to unplug the cord correctly. We’ve also found that these cords hold up well, even when used out in the elements.
Okay, now that you have an extension cord picked out, it’s time to use it. Here are our top tips for using your RV extension cord safely.
Use a Surge Protector
First and foremost, it is important that you always use an RV surge protector when plugging your RV into any power outlet. This applies when using an RV extension cord and when you are not.
Either way, plug the surge protector into the outlet and then plug the RV power cord or extension cord into the surge protector.
Don’t Link Cords
We mentioned the dangerous voltage drops that can occur in long runs above. This becomes especially likely when extension cords are linked. For this reason, we don’t recommend plugging one RV extension cord into the next.
If you must have a longer extension cord than the one you already own, buy a new, longer one rather than a short one to link to your current cord.
Avoid Water
We all know that water and electricity do not mix. Even though RV extension cords are made for outdoor usage, keeping the connection points up off the ground and out of the water is a good idea.
A small stool can be used to raise the connection and keep it out of puddles in case of rain. If you happen to have extra leveling blocks lying around, they also work well for this purpose.
Pull at the Plug
It can be tempting to unplug your RV extension cord by pulling on the cord itself. Don’t. Make sure you pull on the plug head itself. Pulling on the cord can cause internal damage to the wires inside the extension cord, which could actually be dangerous.
There you have it, everything you need to know about RV extension cords. Why not invest in an extension today so you’re ready the next time you need one?
May contain affiliate links.
About the Author:Chelsea G.
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
Tim C. ~ “Patrick answered quickly, ensured we were safe, and immediately started working on options to get us safely on the road again! Incredible Service!”
Your RV air conditioner is crucial for camping in comfort during the summer months. Unfortunately, these units need repairs once in a while. If your RV AC is giving you problems, try the troubleshooting tips below to get it back up and running.
Lack of Power
If you don’t have any power at all to the AC, there are a couple of simple things you should try before you panic.
Plug-In
First, check your RV plug. Make sure it is plugged all the way into the outlet and there is no damage to the cable going into the RV.
Flip the Breaker
You’ll also want to check the breakers both at the power pole and in the RV breaker box. If a breaker is flipped, switch it back.
Warm Air
Having issues with warm air coming from your RV AC? Here are a couple of things to look at as you try to narrow down the issue.
Check the Capacitors
A capacitor could very well be the culprit. Make sure you discharge your capacitors completely using a discharge tool before testing each one with a multimeter. A bad capacitor is something you can probably replace on your own.
Check the Compressor
It’s also possible for a compressor to cause this issue. Test your compressor with the multimeter. If it is your problem, you’ll want to replace the entire AC unit rather than attempting to replace the part.
Weak Airflow
Warm air is bad, but so is weak airflow. Here’s what you need to test if you don’t have enough air coming from your RV air conditioner.
Look for Freezing
A frozen RV AC will put out very little air. To fix, turn the air conditioner to fan-only mode and run it on high until the ice in the unit melts. If the air conditioner continues to freeze up, you may need to clean the coils and filter.
Look for Clogs
Another problem to look for? Clogged coils or a super dirty air filter. Clean both and then test the unit to see if the airflow gets stronger.
Cover Cracks and Holes
Use a flashlight to take a peek at your ductwork. See a place where air could be escaping? Cover it with metal tape and/or styrofoam to see if that improves things.
Check the Fan
Obviously, it could be that the fan is having issues. Try cleaning and oiling the fan. If this doesn’t work, it might be time for a fan motor replacement.
Excessive Cycling
If your compressor is cycling on and off often, you’re probably dealing with a unit that doesn’t cool properly. Here are some steps to take.
Check the Capacitors
The capacitors will need to be tested in this case as well. Just make sure you discharge them first. If you find that one is bad, replace it.
Look for Ice
Once again, freezing could be the problem. If you find ice in your AC, use the tips above to defrost it and then clean everything to ensure the problem doesn’t return.
Have Parts Professionally Tested
Unfortunately, the other likely surprises are a bad thermostat or a bad control board. It’s best to call a pro in to fix these things.
Dripping Water
Sometimes water will drip from an RV air conditioner. This is never a good thing, but can have a few different causes.
Clean the Drain Pan
A clogged drain pan doesn’t allow water to run where it is supposed to. Instead, it will sometimes run into your rig. Fix this by cleaning the pan and removing the clogs.
Clean the Coils
A unit that freezes up will send bits of water to the floor as the frozen coils thaw out. Clean the coils and filter to try to prevent freezing.
Tighten Things Up
If your AC mounting bolts are loose, they will not hold the gasket snugly in place. This will allow rainwater to find its way under the gasket and into the RV. Tighten the bolts to fix the issue.
Smelly Air Conditioner
RV air conditioners can develop a cave-like smell if the coils or filter become too dirty. Wash both of these things to get rid of any musty smells that may be bothering you while running the AC.
Weird Noises
Pretty much every RV air conditioner out there is going to make some noise. That said, if your AC starts making a new weird noise, you will want to investigate.
Check the Fan
First, check to see if anything is in the way of the fan. Clean the fan and add a bit of oil. If this doesn’t fix your problem and you’re certain the fan is making the noise, you’re probably looking at replacing the fan entirely.
Get Rid of Vibrations
Vibrations on the roof will definitely cause some strange noises inside your RV. Make sure the AC shroud is bolted down tight so it can’t vibrate on the rooftop.
Test the Compressor and Capacitors
While the fan is usually the culprit when it comes to weird AC noises, the compressor or capacitors can make sounds if they are going out. Test both to make sure they aren’t your problem, making sure to discharge the capacitors beforehand.
There you have it, everything you need to know about RV air conditioner troubleshooting. Now you can solve your AC problems and camp in comfort all summer long!
May contain affiliate links.
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
James L. ~ “Outstanding. Agents make or break the company. They definitely made it with me!!! OUTSTANDING service. Precise answers. Coach-Net turned a stressful situation into a non-stressful learning experience.”
One of my favorite things to do while traveling in my RV is to visit the various state parks across the country. Last winter, we spent several months in Florida, and thanks to an annual state park pass, we spent much of that time exploring the state parks. Guys, these parks are some of the best our family has found!
Here are our favorites!
Homosassa Spring State Park
This pretty park is a wonderful place to learn about Florida’s amazing animals. It was once a privately owned zoo-like tourist attraction that changed hands multiple times before becoming a state park in 1989. At that point, the park switched focus, providing habitats for injured and disabled animals native to Florida. The exception? Lu, the beloved hippo, is not a Florida native but still calls the park home.
I absolutely loved the manatee talk offered at this park and highly recommend arriving in time to hear it. It was the perfect addition to our road schooling day, and our whole family learned some new things about these magnificent creatures.
Weeki Wachee Springs State Park
Weeki Wachee Springs State Park is another privately owned attraction later bought by the Florida State Park System. This one features super fun mermaid shows performed within the spring itself. An underwater viewing theater allows guests to watch the mermaids as they swim and dance in the spring.
We visited this park with friends. The kids in our group appreciated the mermaid show, and my youngest loved the mermaid meet-and-greet. As a road school mama, I thought the ranger’s talk about reptiles was an excellent addition, and the whole group had fun on the boat tour.
Note: This park is also home to a small water park. Unfortunately, this part wasn’t open when we visited, but it looked worth checking out, mainly if you see it in the summer.
Honeymoon Island State Park
Unfortunately, much of our winter time on the west coast of Florida was chilly. Nevertheless, we loved visiting Honeymoon Island State Park and even went multiple times to see as much as possible.
Of course, the beach here is absolutely gorgeous. Our four-year-old loved playing on these huge mounds of sand, and watching the sunset over the water was a treat. In addition to the beach, we enjoyed the playground and the many walking trails in the park.
Our favorite part? We saw owls high up in the trees!
Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park
Our final favorite state park is in the Florida Keys (actually, we liked a lot of the state parks in the Keys). Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park was probably our favorite place when we went to Key West. This park is home to an old fort with quite the story behind it. Wandering the fort and reading the signage are great additions to any roadschooling curriculum.
After we explored the fort, we went to the beach area. This beach is a bit rocky, so I recommend water shoes, but on a calm day, there is decent snorkeling out by the big rocks in the water. Additionally, watching the cruise ships leave the port from the beach is pretty magical.
Note: Other state parks in the Keys are also well worth visiting. Bahia Honda, Curry Hammock, and John Pennekamp are particularly excellent!
If you plan on heading to Florida at any point in your RV travels, I 100% recommend visiting these state parks and any others you may come across. If you will be in the state for a while, the annual state park pass is definitely a worthwhile purchase, but even if you pay to visit a few spots individually, these parks offer incredible value.
Which one will you check out first?
About the author: Chelsea Gonzales
Chelsea has the fantastic opportunity to participate in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area to visit the Disney parks. Still, they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.
James O. ~ “All the agents were very friendly and followed up with phone calls to check the service provider’s arrival. This is our third request regarding our coverage, and we have been very pleased with the service!!”
One of the challenges of writing any technical content for RVers is being able to provide information that is specific to the individual type of RV one has. Since there have been over 100 different RV companies over the years and even more models within those individual companies, it becomes difficult to provide information on every individual scenario without being too generic or too specific to one type which means the information does not pertain to a wide majority.
And so it is with slide room maintenance. Slide rooms were introduced in travel trailers and 5th Wheels as far back as the 1970s and the “Power Slide” was invented and introduced in 1990 by Newmar. Most other companies joined the slide-out craze a few years later with a variety of new mechanisms such as HWH, Power Gear, and others. Since then there have been both hydraulic and electric mechanisms from companies such as Kwikee, RBW Industries, and more recently, Lippert Components Inc (LCI) which has purchased Power Gear, Kwikee, BAL Accu-Slide, and others.
Hydraulic Mechanisms
Typically a hydraulic slide-out mechanism uses a pump that that is often shared with the hydraulic leveling jacks if equipped. It has a fluid reservoir and pumps the fluid through the lines and cylinders to move the room in and out. There is little maintenance required of the pump other than making sure the fluid level is checked and topped off with the recommended hydraulic fluid.
The actual mechanisms vary between manufacturers, HWH uses two telescoping rams with a synchronizing rod. HWH recommends periodically cleaning the rams with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated. One note: run the room all the way to the extended and retracted position, do not stop part-way!
Lippert Components Inc (LCI) uses an inner and outer assembly with a drive tube. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated and to visually inspect all components for debris, dirt buildup, and bent parts. If you experience a squeaking noise during operation apply a coat of lightweight oil and wipe off the excess and DO NOT USE GREASE!
Several manufacturers have used the RWB Industries motor (owned by Dexter) and a proprietary gear-driven mechanism such as Newmar, National RV, and others. Since there are so many different mechanisms used, it’s a safe bet to run the unit a couple of times a year, visually inspect the components, and verify what lubricant your manufacturer recommends to clean and lubricate the gears and arms.
Electric Mechanism
Smaller, lightweight rooms use a more inexpensive electric motor, especially models that do not have hydraulic leveling jacks that could utilize the jack motor. Once again there are several options such as the cable slides (BAL Acu-slide), Schwintek with small motors in the sidewall and a gear-driven track, or a standard mechanism with an electric motor.
The electric motor requires no maintenance other than having 12-volt power to the unit. The cable systems do require a periodic visual inspection to make sure the cable is not sagging, loose, or frayed.
Cable Slideout
It is also a good idea to visually inspect all components for debris or obstructions and clean out any tracks with fluid film, a spray product available at O’Reilly Auto Parts. This is a rust inhibitor and will not damage rubber seals. Make sure to wipe off any excess spray.
Schwintek
The Schwintek slideout mechanism can develop a grinding or squeaking noise and it is recommended to spray CRC Power Lube with PTFE on the rails as well as the gibbs and motor coupler. These can be found by pulling back the rubber seal outside at the rails.
Slide Room and Seal Maintenance
Most slide rooms or the “Box” are fairly similar, the outer wall cut out of or built from the same material as the sidewall, laminated side/top/bottom panels. These do not require much maintenance other than making sure there is no debris on the top of the slide room when you bring it back in! Some manufacturers have an awning over the slide room to keep sticks and other debris from falling on the top which would tear the bulb seal during retraction. If you do not have an awning cover, you need to clean off the top every time you retract the room!
LEVEL THE COACH BEFORE RETRACTING THE SLIDE! I’m amazed at how many companies do not have this as a standard operating procedure? RV chassis are not rock solid, they will bend and twist in an unlevel situation which causes the sidewall to twist which creates additional pressure or binding as the square box is trying to go out of an unsquared opening.
All slideout rooms have a weather strip or seal around the opening of the sidewall. Some use a two-part rubber gasket or seal applied both inside the rig and outside. Others use a two-sided bulb seal that is applied to the flange of the sidewall. In either case, it’s a good idea to condition the seal with an approved product such as the ProtectAll SlideOut Rubber Seal Treatment or ProtectAll All Surface Care.
Both products have UV protection that will help keep the rubber seal from weather checking and reduce friction.
Visually inspect the underside of the slide room both inside and out. Look for obstructions or any signs of wear and tear. Most use a roller or glide underneath, make sure there is no damage to the mechanism or the floor.
And finally, make sure you look for items around the side of the room inside such as lawn chairs or other items that might have been placed or stored when packing up the camper. You can not believe what a mess a boxed wine container makes when the room is extended!
About the author:
Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Ken S. ~ “I’ve had to use Coach-Net Roadside twice since signing up. Your response is fast and you follow up to make sure the towing company showed up during the window quoted. It’s great!”
When it comes to the term RV, so much has changed over the past 20-30 or even 40 years. Some people still go RVing to get away from it all and don’t want any type of “connectivity” while others go out in rigs that have 5 televisions! I don’t watch a lot of television when I go RVing, however, I do like to be able to check the news and local weather.
Over The Air Antenna (OTA)
Even in today’s high-tech world of streaming, satellite signals, and other pay-per-view options, there is still the old-fashioned signal coming from a local TV station via towers. This is called Over The Air transmission which emits a digital signal from one of the stations’ towers. When the first TV signals hit the airwaves they were analog until 2009 when everything switched to digital. Most RVs up until that time had the old crank-up antenna that was on the top of the rig which we coined the “Batwing”. You had to crank it up and turn it in the direction of the strongest signal which you did not know until turning off the TV and trying to find a station, usually with several attempts.
This old antenna will be able to receive a digital signal however it has a very short reception distance and with digital, it has to be full strength or it will pixelate and drop off. To enhance the old Batwing, Winegard has introduced an add-on piece called the “Wingman” which will double the distance it can receive. You still have to turn the antenna to get the right direction and crank it down when you leave the campground or it will eventually come down on its own!
Other roof antennas are now available such as the Winegard Rayzar or the King Controls “King Jack” both of which are mounted on the roof and do not have to be cranked up or down but do require rotation for the best signal.
A new introduction by Winegard for OTA antenna is the Air 360 which is a dome unit permanently mounted to the roof and once it is turned on, the unit will automatically search and find all signals in the area and then a channel search on your TV screen logs them in automatically. It easily replaces all older model roof antennas. I have installed over 6 of these units and they are easy to install and pull in about twice as many stations as the other models.
Satellite Signal
Another option for television entertainment is getting satellite programming from a provider such as Dish Network, DirectTV, Hughes, and others. You will need either a roof-mounted antenna or a portable antenna that gets a line of sight to the satellite. My preference has been Dish as they have three satellites in the Eastern Sky, and two in the West so getting a line of sight has been superior in my opinion. Plus their “Pay As You Go” program allows you to only pay for the months you need.
The Traveler antenna by Winegard is mounted to the top of the rig and can be configured for either Dish or DirectTV and automatically cranks up and finds a High Definition (HD) signal. The only downside is it can not be used while actively traveling.
There are some options for satellite antennas that can be used while driving down the road such as the Winegard Roadtrip dome which handles Dish, DirectTV, and Bell Television and has an internal “Gyro” with refined algorithms that will track the signal as you go down the road.
I have found that many people prefer portable units even though they are a little more difficult to set up initially. The advantage is being able to get a camping spot in the shade to keep things cooler however that typically blocks the line of sight to the satellite. A portable unit lets you get the ideal spot and run the antenna out to the best location. Most RVs have an exterior coax connection in the service center or outside of the rig so you can set the portable unit out in the line of sight, connect the coax cable, and switch the feed inside to external.
What I also like about the Dish system is the Wally receiver as it is durable enough to handle the banging RVs get going down the road and temperature changes. It also has an OTA adapter that allows you to hook up your OTA antenna to it and all the local channels come up on the screen rather than needing to switch inputs of your TV. You can also do this for any “streaming” program you have!
Streaming TV
Now this is where it starts to get pretty foggy when I try to explain this to my folks who still have 12:00 blinking on their VCR! Streaming is a method of using an internet signal either hard wired or wireless (WiFi) and using a program such as Hulu, Paramount +, Prime, Apple TV, Netflix, and many others. You’ll need a good internet connection, pick the program you want, and pay a monthly fee for said streaming service.
You also need a Smart TV that can receive an internet signal either by hard wire or Wifi or purchase an adapter like a Roku. Essentially, you are getting television programs from the internet even though you can get local channels with your package.
Two years ago we decided to “Cut The Cable” at home and went with an internet-based streaming program and use Hulu, Netflix, and Amazon Prime Video. The only issue I have encountered is when we travel, which is not much in RVs these days but motels for shows, our Hulu account requires us to change locations and states that we can only do this 3 times a year. This may or may not be ideal for you. However, when using a portable device like a phone or laptop, it doesn’t require the relocation so I developed a workaround using my laptop and connecting an HDMI cable to the TV, which works for now.
Ultimately, there are now several ways to enjoy TV while you’re RVing and everyone has their own preference as to what avenue fits them best. From OTA to streaming, to going completely without TV, what options do you subscribe to?
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Randy & Angel ~ “I called the on-call service technician due to having a few questions and potential issues. They were very knowledgeable and helped us get through things we were having problems operating. They were absolutely amazing and very helpful!”
Everyone has their favorite tools they bring along on an RV trip depending on your level of mechanical and DIY abilities. There have been numerous articles about the basics such as screwdrivers and pliers. Over the past 40 years of RVing and a few more before that working and owning a service station, I have gathered a few more that are pretty unique.
Several years ago I was conducting seminars at the California RV Show and pulled out a couple of meters and gauges that I used in one of the handyman series for testing and after the seminar, a few of the Winnebago Itasca Travelers (WIT) Club members came up and said; “I bet you have developed quite a unique set of tools and gadgets over the years?” And they were right, so I developed one of my most popular seminars called “Cool RV Tools, Gadgets, and must-have Apps”. I will share a few of the more unique ones with you in this article.
Electrical Tools
GFCI Tester
Before plugging into a campground electrical source, it’s important to make sure it has proper voltage and is wired correctly. Whether you are plugging into 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp service, it is important to verify the load wire/wires, neutral, and ground are all connected and not loose. Using a Surge Protector is a great option, however, I found this GFCI tester at Home Depot that not only tells me the wiring is good but also shows the voltage. You do not want to plug into anything that is below 106 volts or above 130 volts. Even if you use a multimeter or Surge Protector, this is a handy device to plug into an inside outlet for a quick reference of voltage and wiring.
Non-Contact Voltage Tester
This handy device will immediately tell you if there is power coming through an extension cord, appliance plug-in, or at an outlet without needing to dig deep into the outlet. If you get the type with a sensitivity dial, you can also test the outside of your rig for hot skin which is a voltage leak due to improper or loose wiring. These are available at home improvement and hardware stores.
Kill A Watt
Most people understand the basics of what they can run on 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp service such as only one roof air conditioner on 30 amps, either the air conditioner or the microwave but not both on 30 amps, and other common items found on your rig. But what power does a toaster draw? How about an air fryer, or hair dryer? It’s important to know what extra items you bring using power especially if you are using 20 or 30-amp power. The Kill A Watt is a handy device that plugs into an outlet and that you plug into an appliance such as an espresso machine, curling iron, or ceramic heater. It will tell you the Watts or Amp so you can better manage your energy usage.
Electrical Cord Holders
Several years ago I was following a friend that was an electrician and saw he had several extension cords and other items hanging on the cage in the back of his pickup. I caught up with him and found he had gotten an old tire inner tube from the local tire shop, cut a 2” band out of the middle, and wrapped it around the cords. He then put in hooks and had everything organized with a handy carrying loop.
I took this idea and have used it in RVs, for video production, and here is a photo of the electrical compartment we just organized for a friend with a Thor this summer. Everything is up off the floor and more room for “STUFF!”
Fresh Water Systems
Intellitec Digital Water Purity Tester
Campgrounds are required to have their water tested and certified once a year however, bacteria, arsenic, and other contaminants can be present between the tests. I found this device that can do a very quick test for impurities. It measures in parts per million (PPM) which means it does not identify what impurities rather there is something in the water that affects continuity between the probes and the higher the PPM, the more impurities. Today I can only find this on Amazon.
Filtermate Test Kit
Even if the water supply passes the average test, does not mean it is the best water source for your pets, children, or your rig’s water supply. Most campground water sources will be hard water which means there is calcium, lime, and rust that could clog up pipes, filters, and faucets. There are several test kits that will determine the hardness of the water, PH, and other chemicals that might be an issue at the campground. I find these mostly at home improvement stores. These kits can help determine if you need a water filter, and what kind.
Water Pressure Tester
Most campgrounds will have a well-type water system with a pump rather than a regulated municipal type. That means you could get low pressure or even worse, high pressure that your water lines and connections can not handle. Most RVs today have ½” plastic lines such as PEX with either a crimped-on ring at the connections or a compression-type fitting. Most can handle at least 40 psi or some up to 60 psi which is the water pressure coming into the rig. It’s important to test the water pressure before hooking up and to know what your rig can handle! My folks went to visit my brother and hooked up the city water hose to the outside faucet at his house and later that afternoon had a soaked floor. The connections could not handle the pressure and water just slowly seeped out.
Screw this onto the water supply at the campground or house to test the pressure. Or you can use the next tool!
Water Pressure Regulator/Filter
This is not actually a tool but rather an accessory but I include it as the type I like to use is not so common. Most RVers like to use an inline filter such as Camco or Shurflo which you sell all over the campground. I like to use a residential style on such as this Omni version that you often see under the sink in homes. This type of filter has a replaceable cartridge insert that can also be customized for the type of filtering you need. I can replace the cartridge for over half the cost of the all-in-one inline filter.
Notice the 40 psi reducer attached to the faucet as this old-style farm handle would give me 80 psi! Plus this is one of the few accordion-type hoses that is drinking water safe!
Winterizing Hose
I like to use compressed air to blow all the water out of the system rather than put in gallons and gallons of pink RV antifreeze. Usually, I do this by myself and there has not been a good method to connect the air hose of my compressor to the screw-in air valve to the city water fill. So I built my own using the male end of an old water hose that connects to the city water fill and added an air chuck with a worm clamp. This way I can connect this to the city water fill, turn the compressor down to 40 psi, connect the hose with the quick connect, and open all the faucets and other devices by myself.
Liquid Propane (LP)
LP Leak Detector
By RVIA code, all RVs come with an LP Leak Detector installed which has a sensor that will provide an audible beep if it detects LP in the air. This is usually located under a kitchen cabinet or other lower cabinet location as LP is heavier than air and will settle.
There are several areas that could have a slight LP leak that would not be detected by this unit such as at the DOT cylinders on trailers or ASME tank on a motorhome. All LP appliances have an LP hose and connection which could also leak and might not be detected by the device in locations like the back of the refrigerator, outside grill, outside kitchen, and the furnace. That is why I like to periodically check the connections with my own portable LP Leak Detector which I found on Amazon for $20.
This is a much more accurate and pinpoint device that allows you to test lines and connections that the floor-mounted device might not detect.
Gas Stop
Gas Stop is a device that will instantly and automatically shut off the LP delivery system in the event of a major leak such as a ruptured line or other failures. Even though all RV LP fuel supply containers have a spring-loaded excess flow valve, there is still a slight chance of malfunction of the valve and it can get stuck in bypass and appliances will not work. This device will also show you the level of LP in the container and can sense a very slight leak in the system.
Stay tuned, next month we will show a refrigerator vent blowout tool as well as a “comb” to straighten the evaporator coils. And then one of my favorites, the “Magnetizer”!
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Swain W. ~ “Service was excellent and follow-up was fantastic. It means a lot to be taken care of when you are down. Very happy with everyone’s performance I would not have known what to do or who to call if I had not had Coach-Net. You all were excellent.”
Whether you are driving a truck pulling a trailer or a motorhome with a “toad”, there are some things you can do to improve your fuel efficiency or miles per gallon (mpg). Small items we typically take for granted such as tires, maintenance, and driving characteristics can all make a difference.
Proper Tire Pressure
The pounds per square inch (psi) stamped on the side of your tire is maximum psi at its maximum weight which is not necessarily the proper tire pressure. Proper tire inflation can only be factored in by weighing the coach to determine what the actual weight is on the tires. Most large motorhomes’ 5th wheels have a cargo carrying capacity (CCC) of several thousand pounds and may not be even close to the maximum weight rating or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The only way to verify proper tire inflation is to weigh the rig by individual wheel position and go to the tire inflation chart for your brand of tire. These can be found at www.rvsafety.com.
The Recreational Vehicle Safety And Education Foundation (RVSEF) has been weighing coaches for almost 30 years and recently recommended that smaller trailers should use the psi listed on the tire as they are relatively close to GVWR. Proper tire inflation provides the appropriate amount of tread on the road.
For example, the new Faulken tires on my 2016 Silverado read 51 psi at a maximum load of 2,601 lbs. The tire sticker inside the door shows 35 psi. The tire dealer recommended 42 psi and on a recent trip to Colorado, the truck bounced and banged all the way through Nebraska! I adjusted the pressure down to 34 psi and what a difference.
Overinflation will not reduce mpg however underinflation will as it causes additional resistance of the tread to the road surface. According to RVSEF over 50% of RVs they have weighed have underinflated tires. Their weighing teams have been conducting individual wheel position weighing at Rallies, dealerships, and special events for over 30 years. Underinflated tires not only cause premature tread wear and the potential for blown tires, but the resistance will also affect fuel economy.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum your rig can weigh with all the cargo, water, and LP. With motorized RVs, the GVWR also includes the people inside the rig as you will be in it while driving. The more weight you are driving down the road, the harder the engine has to work which means lower fuel efficiency.
I have driven several units on a gas rig and did notice a difference when towing a car or having the unit full of cargo and people. On trips to Colorado, a 36-foot motorhome with very little cargo and only two people got 8-9 mpg and one that was loaded got around 6-7 mpg! This is something that you will need to try with your rig and the power of your engine. A gas engine towing the same weight will get substantially less mpg than a diesel however the diesel fuel will typically cost more.
Proper Maintenance
Although this may not seem like something that would affect fuel efficiency, not doing regular maintenance can lead to dirty filters that restrict airflow causing the engine works harder than normal. Make sure all engine filters have been changed to specifications and fluids are up to date as well. This also means checking the axles and wheels on trailers and getting the bearings repacked as recommended. Most trucks today have sealed bearings in a complete hub and can not be lubricated however, your trailer bearings typically can. Make sure you do annual maintenance on the trailer bearings and brakes. Most axle manufacturers recommend repacking and inspecting the bearings once a year or every 15,000 miles.
Another factor that can impact your mpg is the brake drum and tire. When I owned a trucking company, I would have my drivers use an infrared laser thermometer to record temperatures of the hub, brake drum, and tire every time they stopped for fuel. Extremely hot temperatures were an indicator of bearings getting dry or brakes set to high which could cause a failure, but we also noticed it affected fuel economy as well.
Driving Characteristics
Keep in mind you are basically driving a “Billboard” down the road and winds, especially strong headwinds will affect your fuel economy. Try to avoid wind if possible, some RVers pull over and relax during windy conditions and wait for a more enjoyable driving experience.
Several highway studies have shown that driving between 55-65 mph will provide the best fuel economy and also staying at a consistent speed helps as well. How and when you drive can also affect fuel economy. The more traffic you find means the more fluctuation of speeds you will encounter and affect fuel economy as well. If possible, plan your trips for times with less traffic or reroute to avoid high traffic such as big city driving or mountains.
Fuel
My truck is designed for “FlexFuel” so I can choose to run Premium, Super Unleaded, or E85. I typically run Super Unleaded at 87 Octane and tried Premium during one of my trips and did not see any difference in fuel economy.
However, when Super Unleaded hit the $4.79 mark one of our local fuel stations had E85 for $2.99 so I tried a couple of tanks and my fuel economy dropped by 4-5 mpg! Saving $1.80 per gallon did still make financial sense, but now that Super Unleaded is down to $3.49 and E85 went up to $3.29 it doesn’t make sense. I have also tried Seafoam as well as several other fuel saver products and did not see any difference.
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Robert L. ~ “This is an outstanding service you provide. Anyone who has an RV should take advantage of it. You took a very stressful situation off my hands and I had complete confidence in the outcome. Thank you very much.”
In part one we discussed the difference between lead-acid, AGM, and Lithium batteries. Since then I have talked with our technical department and asked “how do you know if the lithium battery you are considering is good quality? They indicated that “lithium” is the new hot button in the RV industry and they are flying off the shelves. Many “opportunistic” companies are doing a “lick & stick” (his words exactly) by purchasing cheap overseas lithium and putting their sticker name on it. Many of these have prismatic and palmer cells that can not withstand the vibration and bouncing the typical RV encounters as well as temperature changes. This creates connectivity issues and produces thermal events.
Quality lithium batteries use cylindrical cells for the internal pack and protect them with molded ribs instead of foam filler. Also, the connection between these cells is best with mechanical connection rather than solder which is cheaper but is not as stable.
So how do you know? First, look for the UL listing and the file number. Then ask for an exploded view and description of the interior of the battery! If they can’t provide it, chances are the components are sub-par!
Then I asked; “What else should we look for in Lithium Batteries for an RV?” The answer was a good Battery Management System or BMS built into the battery. A BMS monitors the cells within the battery and keeps them from operating in an unsafe condition due to overcharging or undercharging. It can detect any shorts in the connections and balance the charge in each individual cell. If it does find an issue, it will shut the battery down before any damage can occur. This is especially important if your charger has a bulk charge stage or if you’re trying to get that last bit of sunlight in your solar panel charging system.
Temperature Is Important
The BMS will also monitor the temperature to make sure the battery either shuts down during extreme high and low temperatures or controls fans or heaters that could be part of the system. Extreme high temperatures can cause thermal runaway and charging a Lithium Battery at below-freezing temperatures will ruin the battery. The BMS will shut down the battery if it is not equipped with a cooling fan or heater. A quality Lithium Battery will either have an internal heater or heat pad/blanket that the BMS will activate when needed.
Now that we know what to look for in a quality Lithium Battery, there is more information you need to consider before jumping into the Lithium world! In Part 1 we talked about the WFCO converter that was used in the RV and how it only provided a 13.6-volt charge however you need to research what converter/charger or inverter/charger you have and how it operates. Most Lithium Batteries want 14.6-volts for charging and can be charged much faster than the typical lead-acid batteries. If your converter only provides 13.6-volts it will take longer to charge and will not charge 100% so you lose about 35% of what you paid for. Even worse, if you have a multi-stage charger it will start the bulk charge at 16-volts to break up sulfation in the lead-acid battery and then go to a float and equalizing charge. 16-volts will ruin a Lithium Battery unless it has a BMS in which case it will shut down and won’t charge!
One option is to install an upgrade to your converter such as the Progressive Dynamics 4655CSV model. This runs approximately $250 but is well worth it to get 100% out of your Lithium Battery.
If your converter, inverter, or solar charger is not putting out 14.6-volts I would recommend you consider upgrading the charger, lead-acid, or AGM. I did speak to a representative at Magnatek which is owned by Parallel Power Supply and they are using a stand-alone converter that puts out 13.8-volts and recommending it for use with Lithium. If you have a larger diesel pusher model and/or a residential refrigerator chances are you have a larger inverter that is also a battery charger and need to verify what voltage it is providing. Most newer models have a setting for Lithium.
DC To DC Charger
If your rig has the capability to provide a charge from the engine battery whether it’s a tow vehicle pulling a trailer with the 7-pin connection or a motorhome through the Battery Isolation Management solenoid (BIM) your alternator could potentially provide over 225 amps such as the case with a Mercedes model. This would require a DC to DC Charger that will regulate the amps. Battery Born recommends the Victron and Mike Sokol of The No Shock Zone recommends the Redarc model.
The Advantage Of Lithium Batteries
The biggest advantage of Lithium Batteries in my opinion is they do not sulfate and do not require much maintenance. Yes, the cost can be 5 times as much, however, the average lead-acid battery lasts about 2-3 years unless it is maintained religiously then it could last up to 4-5 years. The average Lithium Battery will last 8-10 years, so if you plan to keep your rig for more than 5 years, it will most likely cost about the same, however, you get all the other advantages.
A Lithium Battery can be drawn down to almost 100% vs a lead-acid battery at only about 50% and it will charge up about 5 times as fast so you get longer battery usage when dry camping and faster recharging so you don’t have to run the generator all day or worry about only getting a few hours of sun with a solar charging system.
Lithium Batteries are about ½ the weight of lead-acid batteries and you get the same amp hours out of one 100-amp hour Lithium vs two lead-acid batteries. So the Lithium Battery is lighter and takes up ½ the room in a compartment or on the tongue of your trailer.
Once you review all the information and what type of charging system you have, you can now decide if Lithium is the right choice for you and worth the money.
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
Rosita J. ~ “Coach-Net agents always ask at beginning of a conversation if you are in a safe place…that is awesome! Every agent we have dealt with has been attentive, patient, friendly, and quick to make note of the issue. Within minutes they were connecting us to a technician who talked us through fixing our problem. We are extremely satisfied with Coach-Net’s services.”
