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Tag Archives: tips

RV Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Tips

12 Wednesday Jun 2024

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Tags

RV, RV AC, RV air conditioner, RV Life, RV tech tip, tech tip, tips

Your RV air conditioner is crucial for camping in comfort during the summer months. Unfortunately, these units need repairs once in a while. If your RV AC is giving you problems, try the troubleshooting tips below to get it back up and running.

Lack of Power

If you don’t have any power at all to the AC, there are a couple of simple things you should try before you panic.

Plug-In

First, check your RV plug. Make sure it is plugged all the way into the outlet and there is no damage to the cable going into the RV.

Flip the Breaker

You’ll also want to check the breakers both at the power pole and in the RV breaker box. If a breaker is flipped, switch it back.

Warm Air

Having issues with warm air coming from your RV AC? Here are a couple of things to look at as you try to narrow down the issue.

Check the Capacitors

A capacitor could very well be the culprit. Make sure you discharge your capacitors completely using a discharge tool before testing each one with a multimeter. A bad capacitor is something you can probably replace on your own.

Check the Compressor

It’s also possible for a compressor to cause this issue. Test your compressor with the multimeter. If it is your problem, you’ll want to replace the entire AC unit rather than attempting to replace the part.

Weak Airflow

Warm air is bad, but so is weak airflow. Here’s what you need to test if you don’t have enough air coming from your RV air conditioner.

Look for Freezing

A frozen RV AC will put out very little air. To fix, turn the air conditioner to fan-only mode and run it on high until the ice in the unit melts. If the air conditioner continues to freeze up, you may need to clean the coils and filter.

Look for Clogs

Another problem to look for? Clogged coils or a super dirty air filter. Clean both and then test the unit to see if the airflow gets stronger.

Cover Cracks and Holes

Use a flashlight to take a peek at your ductwork. See a place where air could be escaping? Cover it with metal tape and/or styrofoam to see if that improves things.

Check the Fan

Obviously, it could be that the fan is having issues. Try cleaning and oiling the fan. If this doesn’t work, it might be time for a fan motor replacement.

Excessive Cycling

If your compressor is cycling on and off often, you’re probably dealing with a unit that doesn’t cool properly. Here are some steps to take.

Check the Capacitors

The capacitors will need to be tested in this case as well. Just make sure you discharge them first. If you find that one is bad, replace it.

Look for Ice

Once again, freezing could be the problem. If you find ice in your AC, use the tips above to defrost it and then clean everything to ensure the problem doesn’t return.

Have Parts Professionally Tested

Unfortunately, the other likely surprises are a bad thermostat or a bad control board. It’s best to call a pro in to fix these things.

Dripping Water

Sometimes water will drip from an RV air conditioner. This is never a good thing, but can have a few different causes.

Clean the Drain Pan

A clogged drain pan doesn’t allow water to run where it is supposed to. Instead, it will sometimes run into your rig. Fix this by cleaning the pan and removing the clogs.

Clean the Coils

A unit that freezes up will send bits of water to the floor as the frozen coils thaw out. Clean the coils and filter to try to prevent freezing.

Tighten Things Up

If your AC mounting bolts are loose, they will not hold the gasket snugly in place. This will allow rainwater to find its way under the gasket and into the RV. Tighten the bolts to fix the issue.

Smelly Air Conditioner

RV air conditioners can develop a cave-like smell if the coils or filter become too dirty. Wash both of these things to get rid of any musty smells that may be bothering you while running the AC.

Weird Noises

Pretty much every RV air conditioner out there is going to make some noise. That said, if your AC starts making a new weird noise, you will want to investigate.

Check the Fan

First, check to see if anything is in the way of the fan. Clean the fan and add a bit of oil. If this doesn’t fix your problem and you’re certain the fan is making the noise, you’re probably looking at replacing the fan entirely.

Get Rid of Vibrations

Vibrations on the roof will definitely cause some strange noises inside your RV. Make sure the AC shroud is bolted down tight so it can’t vibrate on the rooftop.

Test the Compressor and Capacitors

While the fan is usually the culprit when it comes to weird AC noises, the compressor or capacitors can make sounds if they are going out. Test both to make sure they aren’t your problem, making sure to discharge the capacitors beforehand.

There you have it, everything you need to know about RV air conditioner troubleshooting. Now you can solve your AC problems and camp in comfort all summer long!

May contain affiliate links.


About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

James L. ~ “Outstanding. Agents make or break the company. They definitely made it with me!!! OUTSTANDING service. Precise answers. Coach-Net turned a stressful situation into a non-stressful learning experience.”

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One-Pot Meal Ideas for RVers

07 Wednesday Jun 2023

Posted by Coach-Net in Favorite Recipes

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

One pot meals, RV cooking, rv meals, RV Tips, simple camping meals, tips, Travel Tips

Cooking delicious and healthy meals while RVing can be difficult, especially with limited kitchen space. However, with some ingenuity and planning, you can savor scrumptious meals without cluttering your RV kitchen with an abundance of cookware. One-pot meals are a smart solution for RVers who want to save time and space while cooking.

In this post, we’ll offer one-pot meal ideas covering a variety of dishes, including breakfast, pasta, soup, stew, vegetarian, seafood, and comfort food recipes. Additionally, we’ll provide tips for cooking in small kitchens and advice for using minimal cookware.

Tips for Cooking in Limited Kitchen Spaces

Cooking in an RV kitchen requires some strategic planning to make the most of your limited space. Here are some tips for making efficient use of your kitchen:

  1. Make a list of the ingredients you’ll need for your one-pot meals so you don’t overbuy or forget anything at the store.
  2. Invest in versatile and durable cookware that can be used for various meals, such as a pressure cooker, cast iron skillet, large pot, or handheld immersion blender.
  3. Store cookware and ingredients strategically. Stack pots and pans and use nesting bowls to save space.
  4. Clean up spills and messes as you cook to avoid clutter and make it easier to move around your kitchen.

One-Pot Meal Ideas Perfect for RVers

One-Pot Breakfast Hash

  • Cook chopped potatoes, onions, and diced breakfast sausage in a cast iron skillet over medium heat until browned and cooked through.
  • Create small wells in the mixture and crack an egg into each well.
  • Cover the skillet and cook until the eggs are set to your liking.
  • Serve hot with a sprinkle of cheese on top.

Tips: Use pre-chopped vegetables and pre-cooked sausage to save time and space. A cast iron skillet is a versatile and durable cookware that can be used for many meals.

One-Pot Creamy Mushroom Pasta

  • In a large pot, cook pasta according to package instructions.
  • In a separate pan, sauté sliced mushrooms and diced onion until browned and tender.
  • Add garlic, cream, and grated Parmesan cheese to the pan and stir until combined.
  • Drain the cooked pasta and add it to the pan with the sauce.
  • Toss to combine and serve hot.

Tips: Use a large pot to cook the pasta and sauce together to save space and reduce clean-up. A hand-held grater is a compact tool that can be used to grate cheese and garlic.

One-Pot Lentil Soup

  • In a large pot, sauté diced onion and diced carrot until softened.
  • Add minced garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes.
  • Add lentils, vegetable broth, canned diced tomatoes, and your choice of spices to the pot.
  • Bring to a boil. Then reduce heat and let simmer for 30-40 minutes.
  • Serve hot.

Tips: Lentils are a great source of protein and fiber and cook relatively quickly. Use canned diced tomatoes to save time and space. A handheld immersion blender can be used to blend the soup if you prefer a smoother texture.

One-Pot Vegetarian Chili

  • In a large pot, sauté diced onion, sliced bell pepper, and minced garlic until softened.
  • Add canned beans (black, kidney, and pinto beans), canned diced tomatoes, chili powder, cumin, and paprika to the pot.
  • Simmer for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  • Serve hot with grated cheese and sour cream.

Tips: Use canned beans to save time and space. A wooden spoon is a versatile tool that can be used for stirring and serving.

One-Pot Seafood Paella

  • In a large pan, cook diced onion, sliced bell pepper, and minced garlic until softened.
  • Add diced tomatoes, saffron, paprika, and Arborio rice to the pan and stir to combine.
  • Pour in seafood stock and bring to a boil.
  • Add seafood of your choice (such as shrimp, mussels, and calamari) and let simmer until the rice is cooked through and the seafood is cooked.
  • Serve hot with lemon wedges on the side.

Tips: Arborio rice is short-grain rice commonly used in paella and can absorb a lot of liquid. Use pre-cooked seafood to save time and space. A large pan with a lid can be used to cook and serve the paella.

One-Pot Beef Stew

  • In a large pot, sauté diced onion, sliced carrots, and sliced celery until softened.
  • Add diced beef and cook until browned on all sides.
  • Pour in beef broth and bring to a boil.
  • Add diced potatoes and canned diced tomatoes to the pot.
  • Let simmer for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally.
  • Serve hot.

One-Pot Creamy Tomato Soup

  • In a large pot, sauté diced onion and minced garlic until softened.
  • Add canned diced tomatoes and vegetable broth to the pot.
  • Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 10-15 minutes.
  • Use a hand-held immersion blender to blend the soup until smooth.
  • Add cream and stir to combine.
  • Serve hot.

One-Pot Shrimp Scampi

  • In a large pan, sauté minced garlic and red pepper flakes until fragrant.
  • Add white wine, lemon juice, and peeled and deveined shrimp to the pan.
  • Cook until the shrimp are pink and cooked through.
  • Add cooked pasta to the pan and toss to combine.
  • Serve hot with grated Parmesan cheese on top.

Tips: Use pre-cooked pasta to save time and space.

One-Pot Mac and Cheese

  • In a large pot, cook pasta according to package instructions.
  • Drain the pasta and add it back to the pot.
  • Add milk, shredded cheddar cheese, and your choice of spices to the pot.
  • Stir over low heat until the cheese is melted and the sauce is creamy.
  • Serve hot.

Tips: Use a large pot to cook and serve the mac and cheese. Shredded cheese melts more easily than sliced cheese, making it a good choice for one-pot meals.

Simplify Your RV Cooking with One-Pot Meals and Efficient Kitchen Practices

One-pot meals are an excellent solution for RVers who want to save time and space while cooking. By using multi-functional cookware, planning your meals ahead of time, and cleaning up as you go, you can make efficient use of your limited kitchen space. Try out the one-pot meal ideas we’ve shared in this post, and don’t be afraid to experiment with your own variations and substitutions. Happy cooking!


About The Author: Natalie Henley

Natalie Henley is a freelance writer and has also been full-time RVing with her husband and pets since 2015. She covers a wide range of topics, including RV lifestyle, RVing tips, DIY projects, RV news, and more. You can follow their adventures and RV-related tips on their blog, henleyshappytrails.com, as well as their YouTube Channel, also called Henley’s Happy Trails. In addition, she writes for various RV-related blogs and marketing outlets and is the co-author of Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It, available on Amazon.

Stuart G. ~ “We can NOT say enough GREAT things about Coach-Net’s roadside service!”

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5 Great Ways to Filter Water While Camping

09 Friday Nov 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

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Tags

Camping, RV, RV Camping, RV cleaning tips, RV Life, RV Tips, tips, Travel Tips, Water, Water Filters

5 Ways To Filter Water While Camping

It’s no secret that campgrounds very rarely have good water. Sure, most of it is probably safe to drink, but rarely do we come across campground water that tastes great, and sometimes it’s even stinky or discolored. For this reason, most seasoned RVers use some sort of filtration system.

Picking up an RV water filter sounds easy enough, right? Unfortunately, it requires a bit more effort that you’d think. You see, there are a number of options when it comes to filtering the water you use while camping. Therefore, you might want to do a bit of research before picking up a filter in order to ensure you’re getting the best option for you.

Inline Filter

The first and most obvious answer to your water quality problems is an inline filter. These things are super easy to find, simple to install, and do a decent job of filtering out sediment.

That said, they don’t do so great when it comes to filtering out yucky tastes and chemicals such as chlorine. Still, this option is cost effective for those who only need to filter water once in awhile and it works relatively well. Therefore, this is definitely the best option for part-timers, and some full-timers prefer them over other options as well.

Canister System

Many full time RVers use a canister filtration system. This is pretty simple to install, but does require that you have a place to set the filter. The filters in these systems last much longer than inline filters, making them a great option for those who filter water into their RVs on a daily basis.

Canister systems also tend to do a great job at filtering out sediment as well as odd tastes, leaving all campground water clean, clear, and perfectly potable.

Reverse Osmosis

 

Reverse Osmosis Water Filter

Reverse osmosis is by far the most thorough water filtration system. That said, it’s also the most complicated to install, especially in an RV.

Additionally, this type of system cleans water so well that it tends to waste quite a bit of it. This means several gallons of water are flushed down the drain. Not only is this not eco-friendly, it also is not great for boondocking. Still, some people choose reverse osmosis and love the super clean water they get in return.

Berkey

Many RVers invest in Berkey filtering systems in order to provide themselves with super clean drinking water. These countertop water containers are one of the best filtering systems on the market.

That said, we recommend using the Berkey in addition to one of the filtering systems mentioned above. This is because the above filtering systems ensure sediment doesn’t make its way into your RV water lines, while the Berkey filters water after it’s already made its way through your lines.

Filtering Water Bottles

Looking to filter water while out hiking? Water bottle that filter on the go are a wonderful solution. While most bottles aren’t designed to filter anything much dirtier than tap water, there are a few out there that will filter water from a stream or river. These are perfect for those who like to hike long distances and can’t carry enough water to last their entire hike. I particularly like the Lifesaver bottle for this purpose.

While these aren’t the only options out there, they are the most popular and probably the best for most people. I encourage you to weigh the pros and cons of each and pick a system that will give you the clean water you need in a way that is convenient for you.

You may also want to keep in mind that you can combine some of these options, so if you want extra pure water, go ahead and do some doubling up!


About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She home schools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Tire DiscountsAww Shucks!

Thomas C. ~ Gloria on the phone and the service man on the Gregory’s Towing truck were pleasant, courteous and very professional”

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RV Air Conditioning Tips

19 Wednesday Sep 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

RV AC, RV air conditioner, RV roof ac, RV roof air conditioner, RV tech tip, RV tech tips, RV Tips, tech tip, tips, Travel Tips

RV Air ConditioningThere are some tips and tricks to making your roof AC run more efficiently and provide a cooler interior climate.

Become Familiar With Your Roof AC

The first thing to do is become familiar with how the roof AC operates and what you can expect.  Most RVers think the roof AC uses a coolant such as Freon to “dump” cold air into the rig but this is not the case.  The roof AC operates very similar to your absorption refrigerator and actually draws heat from interior air through the evaporator at the front of the unit.  Warm and humid interior air is drawn up to the roof AC through the return air vent, passes over the evaporator coil and heat and moisture is extracted from it.

If you were to take the cover off the roof AC unit and the evaporator shield you would see the evaporator fins getting very wet immediately and the moisture forming at the bottom on the drip pan.  The compressor does just that – compresses the coolant and pushes or pulls it through tubes known as the low side and high side which changes it from a liquid to a vapor.  This in turn draws moisture and heat in the evaporator and the air is then circulated back into the rig just behind the evaporator coil by the blower fan.

Evaporator

Evaporator

Blower Fan

Blower Fan

Compressor or Pump

Compressor or Pump

The coolant passes through the back condenser fins where the blower motor draws exterior air in and over the coils with the Freon.

Condenser

Condenser

With an understanding of how the system works, it’s important for owners to do a little bit of maintenance so there is proper air flow, sufficient amperage, and no air leaks in the system.

Proper Air Flow

The return air coming from the inside to the evaporator will have a filter. Roof-mounted units with the conditioned air coming directly out of the bottom will have the filter designed into the ceiling shroud.

AC Filter (non ducted)

AC Filter (non ducted)

Units with ducted air vents in the ceiling will have a grill on the ceiling.

AC Filter (ducted)

AC Filter (ducted)

These filters should be cleaned at least once a year and typically more depending on usage and how much dust might be in the air.  Most dealers indicate a dirty filter is over 50% of the issues with a roof AC cooling inefficiency!

Next, make sure the vents are open and operating properly on a ducted roof AC system.  Closed vents will restrict air flow, causing high amp draw and condensation.

  • Check and clean the condensor and evaporator coil every year.
  • Dust, pet hair, and even body powders can get pulled into the return air and clog the coils.
  • There are specific cleaners for the evaporator and condensor coils that should be used each year.
  • Since the evaporator coil is in the front and goes directly to the opening for cool air to the rig, you will need to do a low pressure clean and have a plastic sheet over the blower fan return to keep moisture from entering the rig.
  • Do not use high pressure water as it will not only make a mess, but will damage the coils.
  • Once the coils are clean, make sure they are straight and will allow good air flow.  There are even brushes or combs available to help straighten the fins on the coils.
  • Typically the evaporator coils do not get damaged, rather clogged, however the condenser coils are exposed to the outside and can get hail damage or even tree branches.

Proper Amperage

The roof AC and several other appliances run on 120-volt power which is supplied from the shoreline connection or a generator to the distribution center.  Most RV owners take it for granted that the campground connection is a 30 amp 120-volt power system and they will have no problems just like they did at home.  Unfortunately, the campground source is not as reliable as a residential system and can have severe power loss situations.  If the power drops below 110-volts, the roof AC unit will not be able to function at 100% capacity and even though you hear the fans running and other components, it will not be able to draw the heat out and efficiently cool the unit.   This is why a Surge Guard protection unit is a good idea as it will monitor the incoming voltage.

Air Leaks

Your roof AC unit is mounted with a gasket between the unit an the roof typically with 4 spring loaded fasteners that should be checked for specific torque or tightness every year.  You should be able to find the torque specs in the roof AC owner’s manual however a good hand tightening should be good.  If the gasket is not tight, you will get hot moist outside air coming into the unit and rig which will make it difficult to condidtion the exiting air.  Also, check to make sure you are not getting hot and moist outside air from vents, windows, and event roof ducting.  Seal all the leaks during hot and humid conditions and your roof AC will work more efficiently.

The roof AC can only cool the return air from the inside down about 20 degrees, so if the inside of your rig is 100 degrees, you will only get 80 degrees air back inside!  So the key is to try and keep the inside air temperature as low as possible so the roof AC can run more efficiently.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV ProtectAww Shucks!

Brett P. ~ “So glad we decided to get Coach-net. First trip in the RV and needed it. Coach-net was a life saver.”

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Synthetic Oil and Oil Viscosity

21 Thursday Jun 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

conventional oi, oil change, RV Safety, RV tech tip, RV tech tips, RV Tips, synthetic oil, synthetic vs conventional oil, tech tip, tips, ]

synthetic oil and oil viscosityFor years, the standard in changing engine oil has been every 3 months or 3,000 miles, no exceptions.  Then along came synthetic oil which advertised going 5,000-7,000 miles before changing and the debate began.

Motor oils main function is to lubricate moving components in the engine as the heat that is generated would cause the components to expand and lock up.  The motor oil creates a separating layer to protect these components which reduces heat and friction.

To start, let’s take a look at the composition of both conventional oil and synthetic oil.

Conventional oil is made up of 75-90% base oil and 10-25% additives such as detergents, rust inhibitors, corrosion inhibitors, and other components.

Synthetic oil starts as base oil refined from crude oil just like conventional oil, but then is distilled down to the molecular level to eliminate impurities and then is customized with additives by the oil manufacturer.

Viscosity

oil viscosityOil is graded by viscosity which is the ability to flow in different temperatures.  The Society Of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has developed a test to measure and grade the flow of oil through a pipe and assigns a number to coincide with that flow.  The higher the number, the slower the flow rate.  Conventional oil with a single number such as SAE 30 has high viscosity, but will be difficult to start in cold weather.  These ratings are sometimes referred to as “weight”.  Using a lower weight oil such as SAE 5 would be easy to start in cold weather, but does not provide enough protection when the engine heats up to 210 degrees operating temperature.

Therefore oil manufacturers have developed multigrade viscosity oils that will be easier to start in cold weather and provide better protection during operating temperatures.  For example, SAE 5W-30 has a base weight or viscosity of 5 for easier start up in cold which the “W” stands for winter, and a higher viscosity of 30.  Many people think this is simply mixing two different viscosity or weight oils together, however it actually starts with the lower viscosity base oil and additives are used to increase the viscosity.  Components such as Pour Point Depressants (PPD) and Viscosity Index Improvers are able to increase the viscosity at higher temperatures.  Basically the base oil starts with smaller molecules or polymiers that flow by each other easily when cold, then expand with the heat and lump together creating a higher viscosity.

When To Change Oil

Today, most engine manufacturers rely on the onboard computer to regulate the usage, temperatures, and other factors to determine the proper oil change interval.  The “Change Oil Soon” light indicates when it’s time to change the oil.  Diesel engines have much longer oil change intervals than gasoline and some diesel models still recommend an actual mileage/time oil change interval.  Check your chassis owner’s manual for recommendations.  In my truck, I stick with the “Change Oil Soon” light.  In a motorhome, since you typically don’t put as many miles on, I suggest changing a little more often. This might seem a little counterintuitive but oil and other fluids break down over time.  So, a vehicle that spends a lot of time in the driveway will probably need an oil change more often than a vehicle that is driven often.checking oil

Conventional vs Synthetic

For years it was a heated debate on the ability to use synthetic oil or not.  Most engine manufacturers fought the new oil stating it would void the warranty and could not be “mixed” with conventional oil and would not protect the engine!  As stated previously, synthetic oil actually starts as base oil and is distilled to a much cleaner oil so all the hype is just that…hype and not true.  You can switch to synthetic and even back to conventional if necessary without damage to an engine and you can even put a quart of conventional in an engine that has synthetic if you are in a situation where synthetic can not be found and you are low on oil.  However, it’s a good idea to carry an extra quart of what you do have in the engine as you travel!

synthetic oilThe advantage of synthetic oil is it provides better protection longer.  Even though both conventional oil and synthetic have similar additives such as anti-wear, anti-foam, detergents, rust inhibitors, and corrosion inhibitors, the synthetic provides superior protection at the end of the oil change interval.  Typically synthetic manufacturers don’t claim the oil extends oil change intervals, the real advantage is synthetic maintains a superior flow from new to used several months/miles down the road.

When I was young driving cement truck for a local company, an oil representative came to our location trying to get the management to switch to synthetic oil and conducted a very impressive demonstration.  He filled three Styrofoam cups with various conventional oils and one with his synthetic.  He then poured all the oil out of the cups and showed us there was still a small amount of oil on the side wall of the cups.  He then set them on a shelf asking us to inspect the cups the next morning.  When we got to work the next day the three conventional oils had a small amount of oil standing in the bottom of the cup and the sides where bone dry.  The synthetic oil cup still had a slick film on the side of the cup.  His statement was; with conventional oil, as your vehicle sits overnight, the oil coating the components in the upper portion of the engine will drain down to the oil pan and provide little coating and protection at start up the next morning.  It takes several minutes for the oil to be pumped and circulated to the components causing friction and wear that will eventually cause damage.  The synthetic still had a thin layer the next morning and provided protection during start up.  Not necessarily University Research Data, but it was interesting.  More interesting…we switched to synthetic that summer and they reduced engine issues almost immediately.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Tire Discounts

Aww Shucks!

John H. ~ Great to work with. The people helping me were the best and kept calling me to make sure me and my wife were in a safe place and if the tow truck was there yet. It does not get any better than Coach-Net!

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4 Fabulous RV Bathroom Hacks

19 Thursday Apr 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

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RV bathroom, RV bathroom hacks, RV hacks, RV Tips, RV tips and tricks, tips

RV Bathroom HacksThere is absolutely no denying the fact that RV bathrooms are tiny. While this does make sense considering the size of the overall space, it can make some things a bit more difficult than they need to be. For instance, getting ready each morning might be a smidge more challenging. What’s more, storing all of your toiletries and other bathroom necessities in such a small space can seem absolutely impossible at times.

Fortunately, there are ways to make good use of the space you have by implementing some clever ideas that fellow RVers have come up with.

Here are a few of my favorite hacks for making efficient use of RV bathroom space.

#1: Add a Tension Rod (or Two)

Many RVers have trouble finding places to hang wet towels and bathing suits. This becomes especially difficult when the weather turns rainy and hanging things outside is no longer an option. In these cases, one must get creative.

One of the easiest and most creative solutions I’ve found is to hang a simple tension rod across the back of the shower. Hang wet towels on this rod to dry, and remove them when the shower will be in use.

You can also use tension rods under the sink to hang spray bottles. This is a great way to clean up a cluttered under-sink cabinet, especially if you have a lot of cleaning products.

#2: Go Over the Door

Over-the-door storage solutions are some of my favorite ideas. They are incredibly easy to implement, and can actually make use of some space that would be completely useless otherwise. While not all RVs have bedroom doors, you can almost always count on an RV having a bathroom door, and this means you get some really great storage in the bathroom area.

To make the most of this, start by hanging a shoe organizer over the door, facing out into the RV. This can be used to store items such as makeup, hair brushes, and curling irons. A transparent shoe organizer works best for this because it allows you to see where each item is stored. However, a colored one can work as well.

With the shoe organizer hung facing out, head to the backside of the door and hang an over-the-door towel rack there. This will give you extra towel-hanging space, as well as a place to keep your robe or anything else you may want to hang.

#3: Make Use of Magnets

A magnetic board hung on an open bathroom wall or in the backside of a cabinet door is a fabulous place to store small containers of makeup, bobby pins, and even toothbrushes and toothpaste. Just add sticky-back magnets to the back of anything you’d like to hang on the board, and go to town hanging your bathroom items from this easily accessible board.

#4: Hang Baskets

Many modern bathrooms boast shelves for holding extra toilet paper and towels. Unfortunately, this doesn’t work out too well in an RV where everything will fly off the shelves the moment you hit the road. What does work instead is hanging a set of nice matching baskets from the wall. These can be used to hold rolled-up towels, as well as hair dryers and curling irons.

You can even make it possible to remove one basket from the wall to be used as a shower caddy. Fill this basket with bath products so you can grab-and-go anytime you’re headed to the campground shower house.

Of course, these are just a few of the many great ideas out there. Have another one you’d like to add? Let us know about it in the comments!


About the Author:

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

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John B. ~ “From the time of call to the time I was back on the road was less than an hour. Thank you Coach-Net!”

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RV Furnace Efficiency: The Thermostat

16 Friday Feb 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

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RV Furnace, RV Life, RV tech tip, RV tech tips, rv thermostat, RV Tips, tech tip, tips

RV Furnace thermostatToday we are seeing more RV enthusiasts using their RV for winter activities such as skiing, ice skating, and even ice fishing.  Even if you are not one of the die-hard cold weather enthusiasts, your RV adventure may take you to a location that will need the onboard heater to keep things warm.  An understanding of how your RV LP furnace operates is important to help make it run more efficiently and to prevent a malfunction.

RV furnaceJust like in your home, the thermostat senses the ambient temperature at the point of installation and can be set to the desired temperature.  Once the temperature falls below the setting, it creates a closed circuit which sends power to the furnace control board.  If you have an older model with a bi-metal thermostat it’s best to replace it with a newer digital RV model.  Make sure it matches the mode of operation your current thermostat has.

Some thermostats also control the air conditioner and either a heat strip or heat pump option.  A heat strip is simply a heat element or coil that is placed in the air conditioner and when operated heats the coils similar to an electric stove top or portable heater.  The air conditioner uses the fan only to send the heat into the coach.  This is a good option if you have free electricity as it does have a huge amp draw for the heat it produces.Elec Heat

Here is the confusing part…some thermostats have a mode that is labeled “Elec Heat” which RV owners think is an electric operation of the onboard furnace.  This is actually a heat pump option incorporated in the air conditioner.  A heat pump extracts BTU’s from the outside air to bring into the rig and remove cold air from inside the rig.  Heat pumps are only efficient with temperatures above approximately 35-40°!  So when the temperatures get below that, it blows cold air.  One more thing to know about thermostats is zones!  Keep in mind the thermostat can only sense the temperature in the location it has been placed, unless it has an option for zones with a temperature tensor in the bedroom or other location.

Once the thermostat senses the temperature has fallen below the temperature that was set, it creates a closed 12-volt circuit which is similar to touching two wires together that allows the voltage to flow to the furnace.  Keep in mind this could be 2-4 degrees lower before it creates the closed circuit.

The 12-volt circuit alerts the control module on the furnace which starts the blower as well as the combustion air wheel, which draws fresh air in from the vent on the outside of the coach.  A switch called the “sail switch” is located inside the blower assembly and the airflow pushes the switch up to make contact with the module and create another closed circuit.  This provides a feed back to the control module verifying everything is open and there is good air flow.  If your house batteries are below 10.5 volts, the blower will run, but will not have enough power or airflow to raise the sail switch enough to create the closed circuit.  Therefore the blower will continue to run but the furnace will not light.  Also, if you have a few heat vents closed, a rug over the floor vents, or a pinched or kinked supply hose in the rig, it will restrict the airflow and the sail switch will not rise, therefore the gas valve will not open and the spark igniter will not light the flame.RV furnace

Once the sail switch has verified sufficient airflow and created the closed circuit, the circuit board will open the gas valve which you should hear a distinctive click, followed by the spark ignitor clicking and lighting the LP mixture in the burner assembly.  Then the heat exchanger will heat to approximately 200 degrees and the air wheel pushes fresh air over the heat exchanger to provide warm air to the inside of the rig.  The air going through the heat exchanger is exhausted to the outside of the RV through an exhaust vent.

A high limit switch is located on the end of the heat chamber which measures the temperature and will shut the unit off if it gets higher than normal.  This can happen when interior registers get covered with a rug, vents are shut off, or supply hoses get pinched.RV furnace

To troubleshoot a nonworking furnace, first check the fuse at the distribution center, then the voltage supply to the furnace.  This can be done without removing the furnace.  If the blower wheel starts, but there is no heat or ignition, the sail switch typically is not raising high enough to close.  If the 12-volt supply is less than 10.5 volts, the fan will not turn fast enough to raise the sail switch, therefore it will not close and light.

If the fan does not turn on and there is 12-volt supply, check the thermostat by removing and touching the two wires together which will bypass the thermostat and send a signal to the module board.  If all this is good, then you will need to remove the furnace and verify the module board and the high limit switch.

If the unit starts, ignites, and runs for a short period of time, the high limit switch is sensing high temperature or is faulty.  Verify you have all vents open and unobstructed and all supply lines to the registers under couches and inside cabinets are not pinched or kinked.RV furnace

 

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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John A. BC.~ “I live in a smaller city in Canada and was curious about how effective the service would be here … but I was pleasantly surprised. The contact person was patient and though it took him a few minutes to locate me, he was very helpful. This is my second experience with Coach Net – the last being in Nevada with my RV, and both experiences were very good. Thank you and keep up the good work!!”

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Keeping your Rig Rolling: RV Tires Part 1

01 Thursday Feb 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

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RV Safety, RV tech tip, RV tech tips, RV Tips, RV tire safety, RV Tires, tech tip, tips, tire care, tire pressure, tire safety, Travel Safety, Travel Tips

RV Tire SafetyMotorists often neglect to think about the objects that keep their vehicles rolling down the road in comfort and safety. RV owners are no exception to this rule, and in some cases are less likely to pay attention to the tires on their rigs. Even though tires are definitely not “out of sight”, they do tend to be “out of mind” for many people. Yet, the importance of keeping your RV tires in top shape cannot be overstated.

Tire Considerations

There are three main factors to consider when thinking about tires on any vehicle. These are age, condition, and inflation pressure. For passenger vehicles, tires usually wear out before they age out. In other words, most drivers wear out the tread on their tires before the tires wear out due to age. However, for RVs, the reverse is generally true. Because RV owners, even full-timers, generally put far fewer miles on their rigs than passenger vehicles are subject to, tires on RVs usually get old before the tread wears down. This is a significant point, because even when RV owners have the wherewithal to inspect their tires, they often only pay attention to tread depth and condition, rather than also being aware of the age of the tire.

Tire Life

Depending on the manufacturer, the average recommended life for motorhome tires is seven to ten years, and five years for trailer tires. However, it is important to consult your tire manufacturers website or visit your local tire retailer for specific information. All tires have a date code stamp on the sidewall. The DOT National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Numbers (TIN) be a combination of the letters “DOT”, followed by eight to thirteen letters and/or numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, and manufacturers code, along with the week and year the tire was manufactured.Tire manufacturer date

Since 2000, the week and year the tire was manufactured has been identified as the last four digits of the TIN, with the first two of those digits being the week of manufacture, and the last two being the year of manufacture. In the example above, the tire was manufactured in week 51 of 2007.

For tires manufactured prior to 2000, it should be noted that there should not be any tires of this vintage running on RVs today. For these tires, it was assumed at the time that they would not be in service for ten years. While they were required to have the same information as the tires produced today, the week and year the tire was manufactured was contained in the last three digits. The first two digits are the week of manufacture, and the last digit was the year.Tire manufacturer date

In the example above, the tire was manufactured in week 40 of the 8th year of the decade. In this case, that would be 1998, but unfortunately there is no indicator of which decade the tire was manufactured in. Fortunately, as indicated earlier, there should be no tires of this vintage rolling on RVs today.

Tire Inspection

Experiencing a tire blowout can be a terrifying event, especially on an RV. To minimize the risk of this happening, it is important to regularly inspect your tires, and know the exact manufacture date as indicated by the TIN. During your inspection, check for tire damage, especially to the sidewalls. Look for cuts, gouges, severe scuffing, abrasions, foreign objects embedded in them, etc. Based on information from the manufacturer and/or tire retailer, determine the recommended tire life and replace your tires based on that information.

Next month, I will continue the subject of tires and discuss proper inflation pressure and trailer tires.

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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Karl P. UT~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires, checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”

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Cutting Down On RV Condensation

20 Wednesday Dec 2017

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

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Tags

RV Condensation, RV Life, RV Newbie, RV Tips, tips

Cutting Down on RV CondensationMore RV owners are stretching their camping season by taking more trips in the Fall and Winter months as insulation of the RVs has been upgraded, dual pane windows help insulate the rig, and more efficient heaters keep the unit warm with less noise.

During these cool temperatures, moisture in the form of condensation can collect on the walls, windows, and inside compartments and cabinetry.  Cooking, taking a shower, and especially doing laundry in units with a washer and dryer can create humidity and condensation.RV Condensation

Controlling this humidity not only reduces condensation but can also reduce deterioration of wood and insulation where the condensation collects.  Humidity is the amount of water vapor that is in the air.  According to HVAC experts, indoor humidity should be approximately 55%.  Anything above that will be uncomfortable and help create condensation.  Anything below 25% will reduce comfort.  Plus keeping humidity in the recommended percentage range will help control bacteria, fungi, allergies, and asthma.

A humidity monitoring device is called a hygrometer which can be as simple as the old-fashioned analog version with a dial face connected to a coil.  The coil or spring controls a needle that gives a reading on a circular gauge.  They are inexpensive, but not as accurate as digital models and usually have a +/- 10% range.

Digital hygrometers measure the relative humidity with a sensor that measures an electrical current that is affected by moisture levels.  They can keep track of high and low humidity levels throughout the day and are usually part of a more elaborate weather station showing temperature highs and lows as well.  Some models such as the Accurite premier Temperature and Humidity Environment Systems includes an indoor or outdoor wireless sensor and the AcuLink Internet Bridge, which captures environmental data, historical records and trends, and allows for remote monitoring. Now that’s for the “SERIOUS” weather buff!humidity sensor

Controlling Condensation

With improved technology and better manufacturing construction methods, RVs are becoming more airtight which prevents moist air from getting out of your rig.  The best way to reduce condensation is to provide some ventilation for the warm, moist air to escape.  Metal framework around windows, doors, and roof vents, as well as metal framework in the roof and sidewall, will conduct with the cold air and create moisture.  This can create fogged up windows, wet walls, and damp closets that can quickly create mold and mildew.  In severe cases, interior walls can create dry rot with extensive damage to the wood and insulation.

To control condensation:

  • Limit the amount of moisture you bring into your rig such as wet clothing, snow or moisture on boots and shoes, and washing clothes and letting them hang dry.
  • Limit the amount of cooking you do that includes boiling water or creating steam on the stove top and the microwave oven.
  • Open your roof vent slightly or the stove vent to help remove moist air for limited periods of time.
  • Open the bathroom vent when taking a shower to remove the warm moist air.
  • Provide ventilation in cabinets by opening the door and allowing air circulation.
  • Clean out any areas that do accumulate mold immediately with soap and water or an approved mold reduction method such as bleach and water.  Use rubber gloves and follow the proper procedure.
  • Use a couple of interior fans to circulate the air.
  • Many seasoned RV owners have had great success with a product called DampRid.  DampRid is a salt solution of white calcium chloride crystals that will absorb excess moisture and is non-toxic, septic safe, and friendly to the environment.  It comes in a wide variety of tubs, hanging packets, and refillable systems.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

From time-to-time, we have guest bloggers post on our site. The views, opinions and positions expressed within these guest posts are those of the authors. 

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Aww Shucks!

John A. BC.~ “I live in a smaller city in Canada and was curious about how effective the service would be here … but I was pleasantly surprised. The contact person was patient and though it took him a few minutes to locate me, he was very helpful. This is my second experience with Coach Net – the last being in Nevada with my RV, and both experiences were very good. Thank you and keep up the good work!!”

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RV Appliance Winter Maintenance | Part 4 – RV Cooktops

20 Wednesday Dec 2017

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

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rv cooktop, RV Life, RV Maintenance, RV tech tip, RV Tips, RV travel, tech tip, tips

RV Cooktop Winter MaintenanceIn the fourth part of this series on RV inspection and maintenance, we will discuss the RV cooktop and focus on slide-in type cooktops with piezo or electronic ignition. Cooktops are arguably the most reliable of RV propane appliances. These articles provide tips on performing annual inspection and simple maintenance only, which should help mitigate unexpected component failures. It is important to have your RV propane system regularly professionally inspected and serviced.

Like other RV appliances, it is important to keep the cooktop clean. In addition to wiping the cooktop surface, be sure to regularly lift the cover and clean the burner box underneath. Some people like to line the box with aluminum foil. This makes the cooktop easy to keep clean, as you can simply replace the foil. However, if you choose to do this, make sure not to allow the foil to come close to any of the ignitor components. Doing so can cause the ignitor to ground against the foil, resulting in ignition problems.

cooktopWhile the cooktop cover is open with the burner box exposed, check the ignitors for proper operation. If you are having problems with your cooktop burners lighting, there are a few simple checks before taking the RV in for service. There are different configurations of piezo and electronic ignition, but they operate in the same way. The piezo ignitor or ignition module generates a spark that travels along the high voltage wire(s) to either the central piezo cluster or each individual burner. In the case of a central cluster, each burner is fed by a flash tube that channels propane from that burner to the central spark for ignition. If you are having ignition issues, first determine if it is affecting all burners or only specific ones. If it’s affecting all burners, check for the presence of a spark. If there is no spark and you have electronic ignition, check for 12V feeding the ignition module. If you don’t have 12V, you will need to trace the voltage loss. Complete loss of spark (and verified 12V for electronic ignition) often points to a failed piezo ignitor or electronic ignition module. Piezo ignitors are not expensive, although electronic control modules can be a little pricey.

If the failure is limited to one or two burners, inspect the flash tubes, which are generally secured with spring clips. These often come loose due to vibration, resulting in dislodging of the tubes. Ensure the high-voltage wires are fully connected at both ends and intact without damage. Next, inspect the small burner ports on the side of the burners facing the flash tubes. These ports get clogged with debris, which can also occur on the main burner ports. Burner ports can be carefully cleaned with toothpicks. Be careful not to enlarge or damage the ports.

Finally, inspect the burner flame. It should be a distinct blue with no yellow. If the flame is not correct, or if you notice any other issues with the operation of the cooktop, it is important to have your cooktop serviced by a reputable RV repair center.

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.2


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