Tag Archives: RV battery

Top 10 Ways Not To Embarrass Yourself As An RV Newbie

29 Wednesday May 2019

Posted by in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

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RV Newbie

‘I love embarrassing myself!’ said no-one ever. The only benefit of making a mistake is learning from it. Instead of making an RVing mistake that COULD cost you a bundle and possibly damage your ego, read on and learn.

  1. Know Your Height Clearance

Your RV has a height. But did you consider the addition of your air conditioner and other things up top? Here are plenty of people who didn’t:

If you RV in the east, you likely will have to be aware of your true height. If you are in the west only, you will encounter major height restrictions less often. You still must know it!

If you can’t remember it, write it down and tape it in your odometer area.

  1. Learn The Basics About Battery Care

RV Battery

Your RV batteries- there’s a little bit of a learning curve to understand them.

Basic Knowledge: 

If you have the common lead-acid batteries, you cannot let them go below a 50% charge. (Somewhere around 12.0. 12.8 is fully charged.) Sounds unreasonable, but that’s how it is. Going below 50% charge even once starts to kill the life of your batteries.

If you are lucky enough to have very expensive lithium (fairly rare, especially in an RV sold at a dealership), this rule does not apply. You can let lithium drain much lower before recharging.

Medium Knowledge: 

When you aren’t plugged in, you need to keep an eye on your batteries state of charge using a multimeter. If you have a battery monitor, you don’t need the multimeter. If you’re always plugged into shore power, then your batteries will be fine. They get charged while plugged in.

Deeper Knowledge:

If you are planning on dry camping with no generator for a few days, plan ahead. You need to know if your batteries will last x number of days without using a generator. And without going below 50%.

If you DO have a generator, keep an eye on your batteries. Don’t let them get below 50% before charging them back up.

  1. Know Your Length Restrictions

Long Road

Many campgrounds and parks have restrictions on RV length. Even some roads have restrictions, such as the Going To The Sun Road in Glacier National Park. You can’t drive it if you are over 21 feet.

What a buzzkill to find out that you can’t go to where you wanted because you have too long of a motorhome. Check lengths in the places you want to go to BEFORE deciding on an RV to buy or rent.

  1. Don’t Leave Your ‘X’ Out

Well, we all are capable of doing any of these pretty much any time. But these are a tell-tale sign of a newbie in a campground:

  • Leaving your antenna up
  • Leaving steps out
  • Leaving windows/bays open
  • Forgetting to unplug power/water/cable from the power portal
  • Leaving surge protector at the pedestal
  • Forgetting to chock the RV before disconnecting
  • Forgetting to close the sewer valve

It might help to have a checklist. There are some good RV checklist phone apps out there.

  1. Know Your Weight Ratings

This can spell a lot of trouble for you. It is VITAL to make sure you stay under the GVWR of your RV, and to stay under the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

Watch for these numbers and stay well under them for best results. Also, if you buy a used tow vehicle, make SURE you know the rating of the receiver. If it was an aftermarket receiver, it could be low.

My Ford Raptor has a tow rating of 6-8,000 lbs. After I purchased the truck, I was in for a surprise.

My aftermarket receiver is only rated for 5,000 lbs. Luckily my trailer only weighs 4,400 lbs. Eeek!

You can weigh your trailer at a truck stop scale. If you have a trailer, here’s a guide on how to weigh your trailer, tow vehicle, and find out your tongue weight.

  1. Buy An RV You Can Handle 

Large Truck

 

The bigger your RV is, the more work it’s going to take to maintain everything. There’s more to clean, more that can break, you are more restricted where you can go, and more.

You might start as small as you think you can handle and go from there. You likely can live with much less than you think you can.

  1. Don’t Bring Too Much

Too Much ClutterThis especially holds true for full-time RVers. I sure as heck brought along way, WAY too much. I only have about 20% of what I brought remaining.

I even have a photo of my mess of an RV the day I moved everything into it.

I look at it now, and I only still have maybe 10 things in that photo. Everything else has been donated.

If you’re a weekend warrior, chill. Bring the necessities. A few changes of clothing, food, games and such. You will soon figure out what you do and don’t need!

  1. Wait To Buy Camping Memberships

I didn’t know about this one. Not knowing ‘how’ I was going to camp, I got myself a Passport America membership (which I never used, not even once.) Someone gifted me an RV Club Membership but I rarely used it due to my camping style.

Start by camping some first. THEN decide if you really do need ‘X’ membership. There are quite a few to choose from.

  1. Get a Surge Protector/EMS

Oh boy. This is a very hot topic, though it shouldn’t be. If you will be plugged into power, and 90% of RVs are, you need protection. One brownout could cost you ALL the electronics in your RV.

This is not something to fool with. There are tons of stories out there of people who regret not having one. There are also people who say that they have camped for 10 or so years without one, and they have never had a problem. Great. You don’t have a problem until you have a problem.

Don’t roll the dice. Get an EMS (Electrical Management System) or at the very least, a good surge protector before you EVER plug in.

  1. Have Roadside Assistance For Your Setup

Once again, it only takes one incident for you to regret not planning ahead. Getting roadside assistance ahead of time is vital to saving the big bucks if you have a breakdown.

Typically, your first incident will pay for itself. Whether it’s a tire change, a lockout, or you need towing to the nearest shop, it will cost you big bucks without protection.

Conclusion

Hey, we all make mistakes. Making some of these mistakes will cost you more than others. We hope at the very least you protect yourself with an EMS, as having electrical damage will cost you the most.

You are now fitted with the knowledge you need to look like a seasoned vet when you pull into the campground. Get out there and enjoy!

Do you have a recommendation for newbies that is not listed here? Shout it out below!

About the Author: Kelly Beasley

Kelly Beasley is co-founder of Camp Addict and loves sharing her enthusiasm for the RVing lifestyle. As a full-time RVer since May 2015, Kelly’s playful writing style helps make learning about the sometimes dull subject of RV products a bit more interesting.

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Your Battery Disconnect Switch

19 Monday Nov 2018

Posted by in RV Information

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Battery Disconnect Switch

Many RVs have battery disconnect switches installed in them. However, these switches sometimes go unused or unnoticed by owners. Battery disconnect switches are a great way to conserve your batteries while your RV is in storage, even if just for a short time.

When I park my RV at the storage lot, I usually disconnect my batteries at the switch even if I’m going to be back at the RV in a week or so. In addition to preventing parasitic loads from slowly draining your battery, it also prevents battery drain from loads that might inadvertently be left on, such as lights or fans. Even though my RV has solar panels that keep the batteries fresh (as long as there is some solar energy), I regularly make use of my battery disconnect switch, which is conveniently located with my other RV controls.

Battery disconnects come in many different styles, from blade switches located at the battery terminal to relay-controlled remote switches. A very common style for trailers is the marine-style rotary contact switch. Whatever form you have, it is a good idea to make use of the battery disconnect switch whenever you are going to be away from your RV, unless of course your coach is plugged in while it is in storage.

RV Stored Away

If your RV doesn’t have a disconnect switch, you may want to consider having one installed. Simple switches are quite inexpensive and don’t take long to install. It is actually quite a simple DIY project if you are relatively handy and have the tools required. As with any project, be sure to plan it out first. Know where you would like your switch and the tools needed for installation. The basic tools required are:

  • a wire cutter
  • a crimper large enough to handle the gauge wire you are working with
  • an extra battery wire
  • hardware necessary to mount your switch

How to Install:

Simply splice the switch into the positive lead from the battery at a convenient mounting location (as close to the battery as possible is ideal). If you are not handy with basic electrical work, have someone else do the job for you.

If you live in a fairly mild climate where the coldest it gets is around freezing, you can leave your batteries in your RV over the winter (if you are not using your coach) and simply disconnect your batteries at the switch. You don’t have to remove your batteries for winter storage, as long as they remain dry in the RV. Just make sure they are fully charged and topped up with electrolyte (unless they are maintenance-free). With the batteries disconnected, you don’t have to worry about loads draining the battery, and in the spring, you can just flip the switch and you’re ready to go. Note that the battery may self-discharge over the winter to some extent, but if it does so to a large extent, it’s about time to have the batteries tested, as they may be worn out.

RV Stored Away

So, make good use of your battery disconnect switch. It is there for a good reason, and it provides peace of mind while your RV is in short- or long-term storage. If you visit your stored RV frequently, like I do, you can be sure your lights will work when you need to grab that item you left in your RV. Also,no more lying awake at night wondering if you left the fridge on in your RV.

 

About the author: Steve Froese 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

Tire Discounts

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Power For The People

20 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by in Tech Tips

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power-headerRecreational vehicles, whether motorized or towed, consist of two primary operational house systems, these being electrical and propane. Both systems must be properly maintained for maximum reliability and safety. Since some newer RVs utilize no propane system at all, it can be said that the most important house system in all RV’s is the electrical system. The central figure in the electrical system is, of course, the batteries.

Just like your brick and mortar home, it is important to keep your home on wheels maintained and healthy. RV owners should understand the importance of proper battery maintenance in the primary areas of winter storage, charging, and regular inspection.

Winter Storage:

batteryIf you store your RV during the winter, taking the following steps will ensure your batteries stay fresh and last longer:

  • If the RV is to be stored for more than a few months, the batteries should be removed and stored in a cool, dry location.
  • Top off the cells with distilled water, fully charge the batteries and clean the surface and terminals prior to storage. Stored batteries should be recharged every two months.
  • Do not place the batteries directly on a concrete floor. Place them on wooden planks to prevent direct contact with concrete.
  • Store batteries where they will not be subjected to spark, flame, heat sources, or freezing.

Always be extremely careful and wear gloves and eye protection when working with batteries and electrolyte. Leaving batteries in the RV during storage subjects them to possible fluctuations in humidity, temperature, and parasitic loads, all of which can cause premature battery failure. Battery theft is also a risk in stored RVs. Before removing the batteries, be sure to create a wiring diagram for easier re-installation.wiring-diagram

Charging:

There are four fundamental stages of battery charge for wet cells:

  • Bulk – The main part of the charging cycle, which quickly brings batteries to 80- 90% charge using the maximum current of the charger.
  • Absorption – Tapers the charge current down and slowly charges the last 10-20% before entering float mode.
  • Float – Keeps the batteries “topped up”, maintaining a lower voltage (around 13.7 V) to prevent electrolyte loss caused by overheating the water in the battery.
  • Equalize – A high-voltage charge applied periodically to remove any sulfur buildup (sulfation) that accumulates on the battery plates (applies only to wet cell batteries).

battery2Most entry level and many mid-level recreational vehicles utilize inexpensive single-stage chargers that only provide the “float” stage. This ultimately results in sulfation and the batteries never reaching full charge, which reduces the life of the batteries.

An upgrade to a multi-stage “smart” charger is recommended. These units monitor battery condition and apply the stages listed above based on battery charge state. Any single-stage charger can be upgraded, and it is well worth the price to increase battery life. Your RV manual should provide information as to what type of converter/charger you have.

 Inspection:

corrosionIt is important to perform regular inspection and maintenance of RV house batteries. Regularly wipe the battery cases clean, check the electrolyte level, and inspect the terminals and wiring. Also, look for sweating or bulging of the case, which normally indicates a failed battery. Clean the battery posts and tighten the wiring terminals as required. Corrosion may tend to build up on the house batteries, especially in the case of a motorhome. It is a good idea to keep steel wool, fine sandpaper, baking soda, and a toothbrush in your toolbox. Use the steel wool and sandpaper to keep the terminals and posts clean and mix the baking soda with water to create an effective battery post cleaner.

Following these simple steps will help keep your house batteries, the lifeline of your RV, working efficiently for longer.

 About the Author:

Coach-Net is pleased to welcome Steve Froese to our team of writers. Steve, an avid RV owner, traveler, and  Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

*Images within the body content were provided by and used with permission from the author.