Choosing The Right Battery For Your RV

08 Thursday Oct 2020

Tags

battery care, Electrical System, RV Batteries, RV battery types, RV Electrical System, RV Electrical Tips, RV Safety, RV tech tip

“What is the best battery for my rig?” The best or correct battery for your rig depends on a variety of factors such as:

How often will you be boondocking/dry camping?
How many 12-volt components will you be running and for how long?
How long do you plan on staying out before needing to recharge your batteries?
What type of budget do you have?

Most battery manufacturers make a variety of batteries for different applications. To start with, let’s look at the different types of batteries starting with cold cranking amp and deep cycle types.

Start/Engine Batteries

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is a term used to identify the batteries’ ability to start an engine in cold weather. Since it’s harder to start an engine in cold weather, the higher CCA means more amp power available to turn the engine over and start in a 30-second time frame. This type of battery should not be used in your house battery application.

Deep Cycle/House Batteries

A deep cycle battery simply stores energy to provide steady power to 12-volt components in your RV such as lights, water pump, roof vents, and any appliance that runs on LP such as the stovetop, water heater, furnace, and others. It is designed to be discharged and recharged repeatedly which is known as a cycle. This type of battery is the best for an RV application.

Most RVers are concerned about the “best” house battery for their rig rather than the start battery so let’s look at the different types of deep-cycle or house batteries available.

Flooded Lead Acid (FLA)

The flooded lead-acid battery has been around for years, in fact, it was invented in 1859 by a French physicist well before any RV hit the road and there have been quite a few improvements over the years.

Lead plates are surrounded or submerged by an electrolyte solution of sulfuric acid and water and require more maintenance as water is lost during recharging and distilled water should be added periodically. They are also more prone to sulfation if not recharged properly with a multi-stage charger. They also need to be stored upright otherwise electrolytes will spill out the vent caps. These batteries tend to be the most cost-effective.

Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)

AGM batteries also have lead plates with an electrolyte solution, however glass sheets or “mats” are used to absorb the solution and due to the design, there is no gassing or solution loss and less maintenance. They are also sealed and can be stored in an out of the way location without the need to check fluid levels or worry about leaking. These batteries are typically twice the price of FLA batteries.

6-Volt vs 12-volt

Whether you have FLA or AGM batteries, there are two different schools of thought in what RV manufacturers decide to use: 6-volt batteries connected in series, or 12-volt connected parallel. In either case, the end result is a 12-volt DC system! 6-volt batteries require two batteries that are connected positive to negative which is called in-series and creates a 12-volt battery bank.

Connecting two 6-volt batteries in series does not double the amp hours, to do that you need to add two more 6-volt batteries in series and connect them parallel to the system. The advantage of the 6-volt battery is they typically can by “cycled” or discharge and recharged more often so they will last longer but do not provide more power or amp-hours.

A single 12-volt battery can be used as a cost-effective method to provide power. Additional amp hours can be added with one more 12-volt battery connect parallel which is positive to positive. This will double your available amp-hours.

Battery Size-Amp Hours

Deep cycle batteries are rated in groups, or available amp hours which is how long a battery can provide power before being discharged. Here are some of the common amp-hours per group:

Group 24 – 70-80 amp hours

Group 27 – 80-100 amp hours

Group 31 – 100-130 amp hours

This means that the 100 amp hour battery will provide 1 amp of power for 100 hours. However, we will use much more than 1 amp per hour so we need to determine what is being used and keep in mind that most batteries can only be discharged 50% before shortening the lifespan of the battery.

To calculate the best battery for your needs, start by determining how much time you will be boondocking or dry camping. Then identify what components you will be running and for how long. Any appliance that uses LP such as the refrigerator, stovetop, oven, and water heater will use 12-volt power, however, they will not be running full time. Items like interior lights, roof vent fans, and water pump will also need to be factored in.

If you are going to be camping with access to an electrical source, you can get by with a small group or amp hour battery and save some money as your converter will recharge your batteries.

Here are some typical 12-volt components and the amp draw from them

Incandescent Lights = 1.5 amps
Halogen Lights = 1 amp
LED Lights = .12 amp
Smoke Alarm = 1 amp
CO Detector = 1 amp
LP Leak Detector = 1 amp
Furnace = 10-12 amps
Water Pump = 5 amps
Refrigerator on LP Mode = 2-3 amps
Stove Top = 1 amp
Roof Vent = 3 amps

As you can see, there are several factors in what usage you might have in your rig, especially if you are camping in cold weather. It’s not uncommon for a smaller rig to have a 10-15 amp draw which means you will only get about 4 hours with a group 24 battery! Here is the math:

80 amp hour battery x 50% = 40 amp hours

40 amp-hours / 10 amps drawn every hour = 4 hours of battery life

The more you use and the longer you need to stay out before recharging with either a generator or solar panels, the more amp hours you will need.

One other important item to consider when looking for the best battery for your application is the quality of the battery. Several discount franchises offer a cheap “Marine/RV” deep cycle battery and the only feature of those batteries is the cheap price. They are made with thinner plates, insufficient lead oxide paste and acid ratios, and inferior welds on intercell connections. In short, they sulfate faster and go bad with dead cells and less storage quicker. I would recommend getting a battery endorsed by the RV industry such as Trojan, Lifeline, and even NAPA batteries are being used with much success. Take some time researching the information on the website about thicker positive plates used and superior workmanship and you’ll find you get what you pay for.

In summary, the best battery for your application is not a simple answer, rather a calculation in the way you are planning to RV.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Micheal S. ~ “This service is amazing!!!! Worth every penny! Thank you so much for offering this service. When we first purchased we didn’t think we would ever use it, but our kids have been in several sticky situations that were easily solved with Coach-Net!!!”

Top 10 Ways Not To Embarrass Yourself As An RV Newbie

29 Wednesday May 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

battery care, New RV, RV, RV battery, RV battery life, RV Camping, RV tips and tricks, RV weighing, RVer, RVing

‘I love embarrassing myself!’ said no-one ever. The only benefit of making a mistake is learning from it. Instead of making an RVing mistake that COULD cost you a bundle and possibly damage your ego, read on and learn.

Know Your Height Clearance

Your RV has a height. But did you consider the addition of your air conditioner and other things up top? Here are plenty of people who didn’t:

If you RV in the east, you likely will have to be aware of your true height. If you are in the west only, you will encounter major height restrictions less often. You still must know it!

If you can’t remember it, write it down and tape it in your odometer area.

Learn The Basics About Battery Care

Your RV batteries- there’s a little bit of a learning curve to understand them.

Basic Knowledge:

If you have the common lead-acid batteries, you cannot let them go below a 50% charge. (Somewhere around 12.0. 12.8 is fully charged.) Sounds unreasonable, but that’s how it is. Going below 50% charge even once starts to kill the life of your batteries.

If you are lucky enough to have very expensive lithium (fairly rare, especially in an RV sold at a dealership), this rule does not apply. You can let lithium drain much lower before recharging.

Medium Knowledge:

When you aren’t plugged in, you need to keep an eye on your batteries state of charge using a multimeter. If you have a battery monitor, you don’t need the multimeter. If you’re always plugged into shore power, then your batteries will be fine. They get charged while plugged in.

Deeper Knowledge:

If you are planning on dry camping with no generator for a few days, plan ahead. You need to know if your batteries will last x number of days without using a generator. And without going below 50%.

If you DO have a generator, keep an eye on your batteries. Don’t let them get below 50% before charging them back up.

Know Your Length Restrictions

Many campgrounds and parks have restrictions on RV length. Even some roads have restrictions, such as the Going To The Sun Road in Glacier National Park. You can’t drive it if you are over 21 feet.

What a buzzkill to find out that you can’t go to where you wanted because you have too long of a motorhome. Check lengths in the places you want to go to BEFORE deciding on an RV to buy or rent.

Don’t Leave Your ‘X’ Out

Well, we all are capable of doing any of these pretty much any time. But these are a tell-tale sign of a newbie in a campground:

Leaving your antenna up
Leaving steps out
Leaving windows/bays open
Forgetting to unplug power/water/cable from the power portal
Leaving surge protector at the pedestal
Forgetting to chock the RV before disconnecting
Forgetting to close the sewer valve

It might help to have a checklist. There are some good RV checklist phone apps out there.

iPhone App: Click Here
Printable: Click Here

Know Your Weight Ratings

This can spell a lot of trouble for you. It is VITAL to make sure you stay under the GVWR of your RV, and to stay under the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

Watch for these numbers and stay well under them for best results. Also, if you buy a used tow vehicle, make SURE you know the rating of the receiver. If it was an aftermarket receiver, it could be low.

My Ford Raptor has a tow rating of 6-8,000 lbs. After I purchased the truck, I was in for a surprise.

My aftermarket receiver is only rated for 5,000 lbs. Luckily my trailer only weighs 4,400 lbs. Eeek!

You can weigh your trailer at a truck stop scale. If you have a trailer, here’s a guide on how to weigh your trailer, tow vehicle, and find out your tongue weight.

Buy An RV You Can Handle

The bigger your RV is, the more work it’s going to take to maintain everything. There’s more to clean, more that can break, you are more restricted where you can go, and more.

You might start as small as you think you can handle and go from there. You likely can live with much less than you think you can.

Don’t Bring Too Much

This especially holds true for full-time RVers. I sure as heck brought along way, WAY too much. I only have about 20% of what I brought remaining.

I even have a photo of my mess of an RV the day I moved everything into it.

I look at it now, and I only still have maybe 10 things in that photo. Everything else has been donated.

If you’re a weekend warrior, chill. Bring the necessities. A few changes of clothing, food, games and such. You will soon figure out what you do and don’t need!

Wait To Buy Camping Memberships

I didn’t know about this one. Not knowing ‘how’ I was going to camp, I got myself a Passport America membership (which I never used, not even once.) Someone gifted me an RV Club Membership but I rarely used it due to my camping style.

Start by camping some first. THEN decide if you really do need ‘X’ membership. There are quite a few to choose from.

Get a Surge Protector/EMS

Oh boy. This is a very hot topic, though it shouldn’t be. If you will be plugged into power, and 90% of RVs are, you need protection. One brownout could cost you ALL the electronics in your RV.

This is not something to fool with. There are tons of stories out there of people who regret not having one. There are also people who say that they have camped for 10 or so years without one, and they have never had a problem. Great. You don’t have a problem until you have a problem.

Don’t roll the dice. Get an EMS (Electrical Management System) or at the very least, a good surge protector before you EVER plug in.

Have Roadside Assistance For Your Setup

Once again, it only takes one incident for you to regret not planning ahead. Getting roadside assistance ahead of time is vital to saving the big bucks if you have a breakdown.

Typically, your first incident will pay for itself. Whether it’s a tire change, a lockout, or you need towing to the nearest shop, it will cost you big bucks without protection.

Conclusion

Hey, we all make mistakes. Making some of these mistakes will cost you more than others. We hope at the very least you protect yourself with an EMS, as having electrical damage will cost you the most.

You are now fitted with the knowledge you need to look like a seasoned vet when you pull into the campground. Get out there and enjoy!

Do you have a recommendation for newbies that is not listed here? Shout it out below!

About the Author: Kelly Beasley

Kelly Beasley is co-founder of Camp Addict and loves sharing her enthusiasm for the RVing lifestyle. As a full-time RVer since May 2015, Kelly’s playful writing style helps make learning about the sometimes dull subject of RV products a bit more interesting.

Melissa A. ~ “The whole experience was so much better than expected. The young lady that help me was sweet and professional. The driver arrived well before they said he would. Thank you Coach-Net!”

Power For The People

20 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

battery care, RV battery, RV Tips, tech tip, tips

Recreational vehicles, whether motorized or towed, consist of two primary operational house systems, these being electrical and propane. Both systems must be properly maintained for maximum reliability and safety. Since some newer RVs utilize no propane system at all, it can be said that the most important house system in all RV’s is the electrical system. The central figure in the electrical system is, of course, the batteries.

Just like your brick and mortar home, it is important to keep your home on wheels maintained and healthy. RV owners should understand the importance of proper battery maintenance in the primary areas of winter storage, charging, and regular inspection.

Winter Storage:

If you store your RV during the winter, taking the following steps will ensure your batteries stay fresh and last longer:

If the RV is to be stored for more than a few months, the batteries should be removed and stored in a cool, dry location.
Top off the cells with distilled water, fully charge the batteries and clean the surface and terminals prior to storage. Stored batteries should be recharged every two months.
Do not place the batteries directly on a concrete floor. Place them on wooden planks to prevent direct contact with concrete.
Store batteries where they will not be subjected to spark, flame, heat sources, or freezing.

Always be extremely careful and wear gloves and eye protection when working with batteries and electrolyte. Leaving batteries in the RV during storage subjects them to possible fluctuations in humidity, temperature, and parasitic loads, all of which can cause premature battery failure. Battery theft is also a risk in stored RVs. Before removing the batteries, be sure to create a wiring diagram for easier re-installation.

Charging:

There are four fundamental stages of battery charge for wet cells:

Bulk – The main part of the charging cycle, which quickly brings batteries to 80- 90% charge using the maximum current of the charger.
Absorption – Tapers the charge current down and slowly charges the last 10-20% before entering float mode.
Float – Keeps the batteries “topped up”, maintaining a lower voltage (around 13.7 V) to prevent electrolyte loss caused by overheating the water in the battery.
Equalize – A high-voltage charge applied periodically to remove any sulfur buildup (sulfation) that accumulates on the battery plates (applies only to wet cell batteries).

Most entry level and many mid-level recreational vehicles utilize inexpensive single-stage chargers that only provide the “float” stage. This ultimately results in sulfation and the batteries never reaching full charge, which reduces the life of the batteries.

An upgrade to a multi-stage “smart” charger is recommended. These units monitor battery condition and apply the stages listed above based on battery charge state. Any single-stage charger can be upgraded, and it is well worth the price to increase battery life. Your RV manual should provide information as to what type of converter/charger you have.

Inspection:

It is important to perform regular inspection and maintenance of RV house batteries. Regularly wipe the battery cases clean, check the electrolyte level, and inspect the terminals and wiring. Also, look for sweating or bulging of the case, which normally indicates a failed battery. Clean the battery posts and tighten the wiring terminals as required. Corrosion may tend to build up on the house batteries, especially in the case of a motorhome. It is a good idea to keep steel wool, fine sandpaper, baking soda, and a toothbrush in your toolbox. Use the steel wool and sandpaper to keep the terminals and posts clean and mix the baking soda with water to create an effective battery post cleaner.

Following these simple steps will help keep your house batteries, the lifeline of your RV, working efficiently for longer.

About the Author:

Coach-Net is pleased to welcome Steve Froese to our team of writers. Steve, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

*Images within the body content were provided by and used with permission from the author.

Coach-Net

~ Travel and Adventure Blog

Tag Archives: battery care