Everything You Need To Know About Covering Your RV

20 Wednesday Jan 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

Tags

Covering Your RV, RV Covers, RV Maintenance, RV storage, RV winter maintenance, Winterizing

Your RV is a pricey piece of property. Additionally, you likely think of it as your home away from home and your key to freedom. For these reasons, it’s important that you take good care of your motorhome or travel trailer. This includes things like regular maintenance, pest control, and any needed repairs.

It also includes covering your RV when it’s in storage.

Reasons to Invest in an RV Cover

You might think covering your RV is a waste of time and money. After all, isn’t the thing made to withstand the elements? The truth of the matter is that while a trailer or motorhome will do okay in bright sunshine or heavy rain for a while, the weather will inevitably start to wear on the rig with time. Therefore, the less it is exposed to weather extremes, the better.

An RV cover offers protection from wind, rain, and intense sunshine. It helps prevent leaks and water damage, helps your vent covers last longer, and even helps prevent fading.

Obviously, a cover is a good investment, especially if you plan to store your RV for the winter.

The Two Types of RV Covers

A fabric cover is the most common and most cost-effective option. It’s made of a water-resistant material sewn to fit your type of RV, then held on using some sort of fastener. These covers work fairly well as long as they are used properly, but they are difficult to put on, meaning most people only use them when storing their rigs for long periods of time.

The other option is the carport-style RV cover. Essentially, this is a large carport that the RV can be parked under. It offers just as much protection as the fabric option (possibly even more) and is much easier to deal with. However, these structures can be very expensive, meaning they aren’t the best option for those who like to RV on a budget.

Our Favorite Covers

Once you decide which type of RV cover is best for your situation, the next step is determining which brand you will purchase. If you aren’t sure where to begin the shopping process, we recommend starting with the options below.

Fabric Covers

In our opinion, the best fabric RV covers are made by Adco and Classic Accessories. Both brands offer high-quality, durable, and affordable covers. Additionally, because both brands manufacture a wide variety of covers, we are confident they will have something that fits your RV.

Be sure to check the measurements for your RV before purchasing anything!

Carport-Style Covers

To be honest, the best bet when it comes to a carport-style cover is to make one yourself. This is the most budget-friendly option and will ensure your cover fits your RV perfectly.

If you aren’t handy enough to build your own, or if you just don’t have the time for such a project, the next best thing is a SteelMaster metal cover. These are solid, sturdy, and will last for years to come.

Getting the Most Out of Your RV Cover

Owning an RV cover is one thing; actually using it properly is another. Because proper usage is so important for ensuring you get the most out of your cover, you will want to take these tips into consideration before you dive in.

Check the Size

It’s incredibly important that your RV cover fits your RV properly. A cover that is too small will not offer enough coverage—and in the case of fabric covers, may not even slip onto the RV. Meanwhile, an overly large fabric cover will likely slip off and could allow moisture to gather underneath.

Consult the Instructions

It’s always a good idea to read the instructions when you purchase a new item. An RV cover is no exception to this rule. Consult the instructions to ensure you put your carport cover together correctly, or to make sure you’re securing your fabric cover the right way.

Store Correctly

Sure, an RV cover offers some level of protection, but it can’t protect your RV from every threat out there. For this reason, you will need to do some prep before you put your RV under the cover.

Remember to:

Remove all food from the pantry and fridge.
Lock up. Don’t forget storage bays!
Winterize the water system, making sure you hit every step to avoid plumbing damage.
Check seals on the corners and the roof to make extra sure no water makes it inside while you’re away.

An RV cover is an excellent purchase that could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars down the line. For this reason, we recommend picking one up as soon as possible and putting it on every time you leave your RV in storage.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Edward E. ~ “I am very pleased and happy with the great service provided by Coach-Net! Top-notch in all aspects of service!”

Tips For Keeping Rodents Out of Your RV

03 Thursday Dec 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Keeping Mice Out Of Your RV, Mice Traps, RV Mice, RV Rats, RV storage, RV winter maintenance, Tips For Getting Rid of Rats, Winterizing

It’s that time of the year again, the leaves are turning colors, kids are going back to school, and a large percentage of RVers have taken their last RV trip for the year and getting ready to put the rig down for a nap. Even if you live below the “Mason Dixon” line you will most likely winterize your rig by either blowing all the water out of the lines and tanks or use RV antifreeze just in case. There are several articles and videos on our site relating to this topic…TIP: Don’t forget the water heater, ice maker, and exterior shower!

Rodent Proofing Your RV

The first step in rodent-proofing your rig is to fill all the gaps and access ports that rodents can get into your rig. It’s reported that a mouse can jump at least 12” and squeeze through a hole the size of a dime or less. If you look underneath your RV, you will probably find several entry points such as water line drains, storage compartments, and other spots that need to be sealed.

Another important item to consider is how to keep rodents out of your rig while it’s sitting in storage such as mice, rats, squirrels, raccoons, and other “Varmints” that can use your rig as a 4 Star hotel and trash it better than the best rock band.

Last winter a local RV owner covered his trailer with a customized cover, wheel covers, properly leveled it, and let it sit for the winter in the back part of his acreage. This spring he pulled off the cover, plugged the unit in, and when the air conditioner kicked in it was Christmas in May! Squirrels had chewed through the seams around the air conditioner unit and made a home in the insulation behind the condenser coil surrounding the fan which is commonly called the “Squirrel Cage”…how ironic!

They chewed up the beaded insulation so bad it snowed inside the unit and also chewed through most of the wiring. I am not sure what mice and other rodents like about wiring, but it seems to be a delicacy. We were able to replace the insulation and rewire the unit which was less expensive than installing a new unit, however, he will have the same challenge this winter if he intends to leave the unit at the same spot surrounded by trees with squirrels.

There are several squirrel repellant products on the market, some are pepper-based, others are mint based. These are supposedly good repellants for mice and rats as well. Most of the spray products we have used work for a short period of time as the mint or spice dissipates quickly and needs to be reapplied often. Some of the granular product last longer, however, do not cover as much area needed. We are going to try a combination of spray-on repellent on the entire roof and granular product around the seams on the roof. From past experience, we have found that if we can deter the rodent initially for a few weeks, they will seek other opportunities for food and shelter. Also, we advised our owner to park the rig far enough away from the big Oak Trees so the squirrels can’t easily jump on the roof! We’ll let you know what happens next spring.

Rodent Baits

There are several products on the market that are rat and mouse killers with the most common brand being the granular form that you simply open the box and the rodents eat the product and die. I remember a call from an owner many years ago, as an Owner Relations Representative at Winnebago, asking how to keep mice from getting inside the rig and destroying the wiring. I advised this type of product and he stated that the mice just go inside and throw it all over the place and make a mess! He was storing his rig inside a huge building that also stored corn. Probably not the best place to store a unit as I would imagine the product was working, however, the mice outnumbered the pellets 100 to 1.

One issue with this type of product is not only the fact it kills the rodents which many people do not care for, but it is poison and can also be eaten by other animals and especially pets. There are some other alternatives such as the pouches that are less “open” for animals.

There are several bait products on the market that have the bait enclosed with a small opening so pets and even children cannot get to the poison. These are less effective and more expensive as you would need several of these around an RV.

An alternative to bait is the electronic products on the market. We’ve all seen the commercials with the “sonic wave” or some type of electronic vibration type signal that repels rodents, however from my experience, these do not work well, plus most need 120-volt power which is not always available where you are storing your unit. There are some that operate on AA batteries that state it will kill over 100 mice, but it needs to be emptied every time!

Deterrent Products

So instead of trying to kill the rodents, let’s look at ways of driving them away, all of them. For years, my folks stored their RV filled with mothballs as the horrible smell seemed to not only work on moths but mice as well. I do admit, they did not have a single mouse in the unit, however, it took the entire summer to get rid of the smell. Plus they stored the unit in an outside storage facility with several dozen other units so I don’t know for sure there were any mice there in the first place.

The owners of the 2000 Winnebago Brave we have worked on for the past several years put dryer sheets in every compartment and all throughout the inside which smells much better than the mothballs! I wish I had gotten some photos, they were all over the place. Inside drawers, under the bed, in the shower, everywhere. They claimed they worked well but I’ve heard from owners that they do not and we also found several signs of mouse droppings during our shoots.

Mint Based Products

Mice and other rodents can not tolerate the smell of certain mints and will steer clear of anything coated with the essential oils of mint products. You can spray the essential oil all around your rig and I’ve talked with owners that soak cotton balls with essential oils and put them in the same places they use to use mothballs. Unfortunately, this works for a short amount of time as the oil dissipates and is only good for a couple of weeks. If used outside, it fades faster and any rain ruins the effect immediately.

Several years ago we had an issue with spiders in our home and called a company that guaranteed “no spiders” for at least 3 months! The service technician that did the application informed me that the base product is the same used by numerous companies, the secret is keeping it strong and keeping it from washing away! They used a silicone-based product mixed with the deterrent which kept it from being washed away in the rain! It also helped keep the base product stronger and guess what…it worked!

A few years ago I ran into a product called Mouse Free which seems to have captured the same formula of combining the essential oil with a substance that will hold longer to the application. They would not give me the actual ingredients and their MSDS sheet is like all the others which state essential oils and a proprietary substance, however, they do seem to have a good product. I have talked with several owners at my seminars that have used the product and have had great success. It is a little more expensive and the application more labor-intensive, but if you have rodent issues, it’s worth it.

Rodent Proofing Your RV

The first step, which should probably be at the beginning of this blog is to fill all the gaps and access ports that rodents can get into your rig. It’s reported that a mouse can jump at least 12” and squeeze through a hole the size of a dime or less. If you look underneath your RV, you will probably find several entry points such as water line drains, storage compartments, and other spots that need to be sealed.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Carol O. ~ “We have had wonderful service for more than 20 years. “

Fresh Water Systems – How they work and tips for maintenance

18 Wednesday Nov 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Coach-Net Blog, Coach-Net RV, RV Tips, RV Water Systems, RV Water Tanks, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, Winterizing

The freshwater system in most RVs actually consists of two systems; the freshwater tank with an on-board water pump and the city water pressurized fitting. In either case, pressurized water is supplied to the kitchen and bathroom sinks, toilet, shower, the ice maker is so equipped and exterior shower.

Freshwater tank and on-board water pump.

The freshwater tanks store water on board the RV and supply pressure from the on-demand water pump as a faucet is opened or a toilet flushed. These tanks vary in size depending on the type of RV and the space available. Travel trailers and 5^th wheels typically have the tanks stored under dinette seats or even the bed platform while basement model units have them stored underneath the floor.

On most travel trailers, the freshwater tank can be filled with a hose using the gravity feed port. Make sure you use an FDA approved drinking water hose to fill and store it in a clean sanitary space. Simply insert the hose and begin filling. The freshwater tank will have a vent hose either at the top or in the fill line.

Some basement models have a valve that will allow you to fill the freshwater tanks while connected to city water. Connect your drinking hose to a faucet, then your city fill connection, turn the valve and the fresh water tank will fill.

The on-demand pump is typically located next to the freshwater tank and runs on 12-volt power provided by the house batteries. A switch turns the pump on and off and is typically located in the kitchen area, however, more manufacturers are putting another switch in the bathroom and some a third outside at the exterior shower. When the switch is on, the pump senses the need for pressure and cycles on and off as needed. Some of the smaller pumps provide on cost-effective trailers only provide low pressure of 20-30 psi while larger ones will provide 40 psi or more.

City Water

When connected to a pressurized city faucet such as the campground source or an outside faucet at home, pressurized water is provided by the city valve and bypasses the freshwater tanks and pump automatically. The only thing required by an owner is to make sure the water fill valve is turned to the normal flow or operation on models that have this feature.

The water system in most campgrounds will utilize a well and pump and can provide more pressure than some RV plumbing systems can handle. My folks went to visit my brother and his family and hooked up the water hose to the outside faucet and then to their city water connection. Several hours later as they went to their rig for the night they found the entire floor soaked! Nothing broke, however, the fittings could not handle the 60 psi the exterior faucet provided and needless to say, they had an unforgettable evening. It is a good idea to have a pressure regulator set at 40 psi on hand as you never know what the pressure will be. Also, every campground is required to have an annual inspection of their water quality and post an MSDS sheet in the office, however, the water system could pass inspection but have high levels of rust, calcium, and other minerals. I always have a water filter connected to the pressure regulator before the hose coming into my RV just to make sure. This also filters the hard water to help reduce the faucets from getting clogged with calcium, lime, and rust.

Another option is the in-line filter from Shurflo and others which is a little more convenient, however, the entire filter needs to be changed rather than just a cartridge.

Water Pump

The water pump does not require much maintenance other than winterizing and occasionally cleaning the in-line filter. The filter is typically connected to the inlet side of the pump as seen in this photo on the top with “Pink” RV antifreeze. If your water pump “cycles” or runs intermittently without a faucet on, there is a leak somewhere in the system as pressure drops at the pump and it turns on. If this happens, make sure all faucets are off and check for leaks in the faucets, toilet, ice maker, and exterior shower.

Winterizing

One of the most important issues with the freshwater system is winterizing which means to keep everything from freezing! When water freezes it expands and that means bursts in water lines, water heater tanks, faucets, the water pump, and other items that can cause a substantial amount of damage and costly repairs. It is critical that you winterize your freshwater system by either draining all the water or using RV antifreeze. Check out our archives for both methods.

Sanitizing

Having grown up in a rural community and spending a lot of time on my grandparents’ farm bailing hay and walking beans, I love the taste of well water! However, after it sits in a freshwater tank for too long, it starts to get a little undesirable! Drain the water tank completely then refill it with fresh water to ½ capacity. Mix in ¼ cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of water through the gravity feed and add a couple more gallons of water after to flush the bleach into the tank. Top the tank off with more freshwater and drive the RV around the block a few times to mix the solution. Then turn on the water pump and open each faucet and toilet individually until the bleach solution comes out. Let it sit for several hours and then drain the system. Don’t forget about the exterior shower, ice maker, and water heater!

The bleach taste will dissipate eventually, however, there are several products on the market that can help clean and sanitize your freshwater tanks such as these from Thetford.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Robert B. ~ “Fantastic professional service from everyone involved! Beats our previous service hands down! We love you guys!”

Winterizing Tips For All Types of Rvers

30 Wednesday Oct 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

New RVer, RV tech tip, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, technology, winter camping, Winterizing

At a previous RVIA California Show in Fontana CA, I had to explain to my seminar attendees what winter actually was! It was 100+ degrees in California and most of them stared at me like a dog staring at a ceiling fan when we discussed cold weather camping. Being from the Midwest (Iowa) we only have two seasons, winter and road construction so we have become very good at winterizing our rigs. So even though most of the attendees were not going to store their rigs in sub-freezing temperatures, they might go to the mountains where temperatures could reach below freezing over 6 months out of the year.

So weather (pun intended) you are storing your rig for the winter in areas subject to freezing temperatures or might venture to such areas, it’s good to know the basics of how to protect your rig from damage due to a longer storage period and freezing temperatures.

Develop a checklist

It’s important to identify what appliances, water systems, dump tanks, and other accessories your rig has and customize a list to make sure everything is verified. Your rig may have a refrigerator ice maker, toilet shower, chassis battery, or other items that need attention before storing the unit.

Water System

This is the first step in winterizing, you need to make sure water in your freshwater tank, water lines, water pump, and dump tanks are either protected with RV antifreeze or removed completely as frozen water expands and will split water lines and rupture water heater tanks. This causes tremendous damage when the temperatures rise and the water soaks into the carpet, floor, and other parts of the rig.

RV Anti-Freeze

Non-toxic, “pink” RV anti-freeze can be used to replace all the water in your rig. It will not harm any of the plastic components and has no residual taste or toxic effects on your freshwater system.

Start by draining your freshwater, greywater, and blackwater tanks completely.
Next, you will need to drain the water heater by removing the drain plug from the outside at the water heater vent panel.

The water heater typically holds 6-10 gallons of water and most manufacturers have installed a water heater bypass valve to reduce the amount of RV anti-freeze needed for the system.

3. The next step is to introduce the RV anti-freeze into the water system.

If you have a winterizing kit/valve, it’s as easy as putting the winterizing hose into a jug of RV antifreeze and letting the onboard water pump fill the lines.
Turn on the water pump, then open the faucet or showerhead the farthest away from the pump until the pink antifreeze comes through.
If you do not have a winterizing valve, you will need to fill the freshwater tank up with 5-6 gallons of the antifreeze and run it through the pump in the same manner.
Continue with all the faucets in the rig, toilet, toilet sprayer, shower, and exterior shower if applicable.

Remove Water With Compressed Air

Some RVers opt to remove all the water in the system rather than use the pink RV antifreeze.

Once again, drain all the water out of the fresh water tank, black, and grey holding tanks, and water heater.

A special air fitting can be purchased and threaded into the city water fill, or you can make a DIY tool pictured here and attach it to the city water fill.

2. Attach the air compressor and make sure you turn the pressure (psi) down to 40 psi and turn it on.

3. Then go to the farthest faucet and open it up until all the water is pushed out and only air comes out.

4. Do this to all faucets, showerheads, toilets, toilet sprayers, and outside shower.

5. Keep in mind you may have low-point drain valves that will speed the process, check your owner’s manual.

Refrigerator Ice Maker

If you have an ice maker in the refrigerator, both Norcold and Dometic recommend draining the water out.

First, close the water supply line to the ice maker and push the ice maker arm to the off position.
Remove the water supply line at the solenoid, usually located in the outside lower vent compartment.
Drain all the water from the water supply line and the ice maker lines.
Place both ends into a plastic bag and tape it shut.
For more specific information on your type of refrigerator, consult your refrigerator owner’s manual.

LP System

Shut off the LP at the DOT cylinder valve or ASME tank on your rig rather than individual appliances.

House Batteries

The deep cycle batteries in your rig will naturally lose a charge during storage even if everything is shut off. It’s important to keep them charged or maintained so they do not sulfate or even freeze. If you do not have access to electricity, remove the house batteries and bring them into a garage or other storage facility and connect them to a battery conditioner. Another option would be to install a solar panel just large enough for conditioning such as the Zamp 20 amp maintainer.

As the battery drains, sulfur attacks the plates and coats them reducing storage capacity. A multistage charger or conditioner breaks up the sulfation and extends the life of the battery. If you do have access to electricity, keep the unit plugged in or install a conditioning charger. Just using a conventional converter in a distribution center will not condition the batteries. You will need a multi-stage charger or a larger inverter with this function.

Before storing your rig, remove all food from the refrigerator and cabinets inside and out. As stated earlier, develop a customized list for your rig which could include taking precautions for rodents, skirting underneath the rig, or using a cover.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Kirk M. ~ “Extremely professional, answered all my questions, and had me connected to a mobile repair service within the hour. It was the first time we have had to call Coach-Net and were extremely impressed!”

Tips For Cold Weather Camping

20 Thursday Dec 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Cold weather, cold weather camping, cold weather rving, RV Camping, RV tech tips, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, Winterizing

More and more RVers are using their rigs year around, and not just in warm weather. Cold weather camping has become popular for many activities such as downhill and cross country skiing, hiking, snowmobiling, and hunting. There are even more RVers that attend hobby expos such as quilting, woodworking, and others using their RV rather than a hotel room!

No matter how you are planning to use your RV for winter camping, there are some tips and tricks you can use to make it much more enjoyable and WARM!

First, take some time to get your rig prepared for the colder weather. You will need to take measures to insulate the windows, add supplemental heating, and protect water and sewer systems.

Windows

Single pane windows will create a tremendous amount of heat loss and condensation. Dual pane windows are ideal, however you can use shrink film to add a layer of insulation or even cover the windows with a quilted cover or a material called Reflectix. Check out last month’s article on window insulation.

Fresh Water System

Make sure your fresh water tanks are protected by the on board heater or an auxiliary heat system. Some manufacturers have a 4 seasons package or winter package option that includes a heat blanket. This also pertains to the water pipes and the water pump. Even with a heated holding tank area, I typically add an auxiliary heater to this area such as a heat lamp or my preference is a small ceramic heater. This does require wiring an outlet to that area but provides peace of mind. Also make sure your water pump is protected as well if it’s not in the same compartment as the tanks.

Don’t forget about your water hose coming into the rig! You can use heat tape or a heated hose such as the Pirit all-in-one heated hose. Another option is to just fill the water tank and use the on-board water pump and not worry about the hose outside. When we camp for a short period of time in cold weather, we winterize the fresh water system and just bring several gallon jugs of water, some for drinking and cooking, others for using the toilet which we just use to manually “flush” through the top. The only down side of this is we can’t take a shower but it’s usually just an overnight, or we can use the campground facilities.

Holding Tanks

Typically holding tanks do not require heat, however you do not want them to freeze as you will have a rough time getting the valves open and frozen solids to drain. It’s a good idea to dump a gallon of RV antifreeze in the black and gray water tanks when empty as it will settle to the bottom at the valve and keep it from freezing as well as keeping the sewage from freezing inside the tank.

Most RV sewage hoses are made of soft corrugated material which can be stored at a small length but extended over 5 times in length as well as very flexible to bend around obstacles. The down side in cold weather is the ridges of the corrugated design trap small amounts of water which can freeze in the winter. It’s a good idea to dump the tanks when needed, clean the hose completely, and store it in a heated compartment. Seasoned cold weather RVers use a hard plastic (PVC) hose which has a smooth continual surface, however this is more difficult to store if you are not stationary for a long period of time.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Raymond K. ~ ” I was very impressed with how she handled the call even though I was stressed out. Every time I call, I continue to receive great service. I give a big thanks to all of you there. Thanks.”

Tips For Winterizing RV Windows

27 Tuesday Nov 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

RV, RV Windows, RV winter maintenance, Windows, Winterizing

More and more RVers are using their rigs year around which means taking some extra steps to keep the cold out and the warm in during cold weather. Many RVs now have dual pane windows available as an option but even these could use a little help in the insulation department.

A single pane window is an enormous source of heat loss. Insulating the windows not only helps keep it warmer in the rig, but also will help prolong the LP source as the furnace will not need to run as much.

Keep in mind there are many other places that are a source of heat loss such as the entrance door, refrigerator vents, and another huge area is the underside of the rig which should be sealed and skirted if stationary. However in this article we are going to concentrate on the windows.

Tightened and Sealed

The first step is to ensure your windows are properly tightened and sealed. Some manufacturers use a putty-like tape called butyl tape between the window frame and the sidewall outside. Others simply use silicone. Whatever sealant is used, make sure it is intact and reseal if needed.
Also check how the window is mounted. Most use a sandwich design with the window and flange on the outside and a fastening ring on the inside connected with screws.
Make sure the screws are tight so the entire window provides a good seal.

Adding Insulation

When adding additional insulation or products to the window, you are trying to increase the R-Factor or Resistance to Heat Flow. Here are some products being used by RVers:

Dual Pane Windows
- Some cold weather RVers will actually replace the original single pane windows with dual pane replacements. This can be very expensive. Keep in mind, dual pane windows in an RV are simply two panes of glass with air inside, not argon filled like the low-E type you would find in a home. So these typically still need some additional insulation in cold weather. You can get replacement dual pane windows from any RV parts supplier, or Lippert Components Inc (LCI).
Reflectix
- The Reflectix double reflective insulation is a great product as it’s easy to work with, cut, and apply. The product features two 96% reflective layers of film bonded to two layers of polyethylene bubbles and can be cut to the exact size of the window. Most RVers cut the finished product slightly larger than the window to cover the frame as well. They then either tape around the edges, or use a double sided tape to seal it. This provides three times the restriction of heat flow as the single pane window.
- The downside are that it does block the window so you don’t get any light inside, heat, or cannot see through the window. Also, you cannot open the window if the temperatures do get warm enough to let in some fresh air.

Plexiglass
- Plexiglass comes in a variety of thicknesses and can be cut to the desired size of window and installed over the existing window to provide a type of dual pane. Once again, this is only providing an air space inside, but will provide additional resistance to heat flow. Some RVers use Velcro to attach it, however this does not provide an air tight seal and is not as effective as using two sided tape or double sided foam seal tape which you can find at any home improvement store. Popular brands are Gorilla Double Sided Mounting Tape, Duck Permanent Foam Mounting Tape, or Scotch Double Coated Permanent Mounting Tape.
- The downside of this type of insulation is the window cannot be opened, and the tape needs to be removed and reapplied each year if the window is to be used for normal operation during good weather. To make it easier to install and remove a Plexiglas cover, you can use single sided mounting foam on the cover and plastic mirror mounting clips.

Shrink Film Kits
- One of the most popular window insulation products is the shrink film kits available at any home improvement store. They are easy to install and remove in the spring and inexpensive as well. There are a variety of brands such as Duck, 3M, M-D Building Products, and Ace Hardware. These are easy to install. Simply, apply the two sided tape around the perimeter of the window, peel off the second side of the tape, and apply the plastic sheet. You can get pre-cut sizes. However, I have found these to be sized for residential windows and not what is in my RV so measure your windows and see what kit works best with the least amount of waste.
- Apply the film and use a blow dryer to shrink it down to a nice tight, clear cover! You might find it difficult for the tape to stick, especially if you apply it to the metal frame of the window. This could be due to a weak or old tape, cold metal frame, or moisture? You might need to apply it outside the frame to the wallboard. There have been times I needed to purchase a stronger tape that would stick to the surface and stay for the winter! I would also recommend getting the thickest film possible which will be listed as MIL.
- The only downside of this application is you cannot open the window, plus if you have pets, they can really have a fun time shredding the film! Also it’s an ongoing project each year.

Overview

Since the Reflectix provides the best insulation or R Factor, it’s a great product to use in windows that you don’t need to see out or have sun coming in such as a bathroom, bedroom, or hallway. Then you can use either the Plexiglas or shrink option in other windows to customize your rig for cold weather enjoyment!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Alexus M. ~ “I would recommend this company to anybody, they have to be the most professional, courteous, and friendly people I have ever dealt with. They always make sure I am in a safe spot before we continue with towing needs.”

Your Battery Disconnect Switch

19 Monday Nov 2018

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

RV, RV Batteries, RV battery, RV Maintenance, RV winter maintenance, Winterizing

Many RVs have battery disconnect switches installed in them. However, these switches sometimes go unused or unnoticed by owners. Battery disconnect switches are a great way to conserve your batteries while your RV is in storage, even if just for a short time.

When I park my RV at the storage lot, I usually disconnect my batteries at the switch even if I’m going to be back at the RV in a week or so. In addition to preventing parasitic loads from slowly draining your battery, it also prevents battery drain from loads that might inadvertently be left on, such as lights or fans. Even though my RV has solar panels that keep the batteries fresh (as long as there is some solar energy), I regularly make use of my battery disconnect switch, which is conveniently located with my other RV controls.

Battery disconnects come in many different styles, from blade switches located at the battery terminal to relay-controlled remote switches. A very common style for trailers is the marine-style rotary contact switch. Whatever form you have, it is a good idea to make use of the battery disconnect switch whenever you are going to be away from your RV, unless of course your coach is plugged in while it is in storage.

If your RV doesn’t have a disconnect switch, you may want to consider having one installed. Simple switches are quite inexpensive and don’t take long to install. It is actually quite a simple DIY project if you are relatively handy and have the tools required. As with any project, be sure to plan it out first. Know where you would like your switch and the tools needed for installation. The basic tools required are:

a wire cutter
a crimper large enough to handle the gauge wire you are working with
an extra battery wire
hardware necessary to mount your switch

How to Install:

Simply splice the switch into the positive lead from the battery at a convenient mounting location (as close to the battery as possible is ideal). If you are not handy with basic electrical work, have someone else do the job for you.

If you live in a fairly mild climate where the coldest it gets is around freezing, you can leave your batteries in your RV over the winter (if you are not using your coach) and simply disconnect your batteries at the switch. You don’t have to remove your batteries for winter storage, as long as they remain dry in the RV. Just make sure they are fully charged and topped up with electrolyte (unless they are maintenance-free). With the batteries disconnected, you don’t have to worry about loads draining the battery, and in the spring, you can just flip the switch and you’re ready to go. Note that the battery may self-discharge over the winter to some extent, but if it does so to a large extent, it’s about time to have the batteries tested, as they may be worn out.

So, make good use of your battery disconnect switch. It is there for a good reason, and it provides peace of mind while your RV is in short- or long-term storage. If you visit your stored RV frequently, like I do, you can be sure your lights will work when you need to grab that item you left in your RV. Also,no more lying awake at night wondering if you left the fridge on in your RV.

About the author: Steve Froese

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

Wesley L. ~ “The gentleman who came was extremely proficient at a variety of problems and took care of our LED light problem quickly. I am, however, not sure if ALL of the people from this towing service could have handled the problem quite as well.”

Winterizing Your RV

21 Wednesday Oct 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

RV tech tip, RV Tips, tech tip, tips, Winterizing

This is the time of year where many of us prepare to put our motorhomes and trailers away for winter. In this column, I will review the steps required to properly winterize your RV.

Before starting, make sure you know the locations of your fresh water tank drain valve/cap, water heater bypass valve(s), water pump winterizing valve and tube, as well as the low point drains. This information can be found in your owner’s manual or visit an RV service center for assistance. If your unit does not have a water heater bypass or water pump winterizing tube I highly recommend installing them, as they make the winterizing process much easier. For this procedure, I will assume these components are present.

The first step is to completely empty the black and gray water holding tanks. This likely requires a visit to your local dump station. It is a good idea to have a sufficient volume of fresh water on board to flush the black tank after dumping.

The remaining steps are presented in the order I recommend, although slight modification may be required for your unit:

Ensure the water pump is turned off.
Open any cold and hot water tap.
Drain the fresh water tank by opening the drain valve or removing the drain cap.
Open the low point drains on both the cold and hot water lines. Close them when water no longer flows.
Turn off the water heater (propane and AC).
Drain the hot water tank by removing the plug (for aluminum tanks) or anode rod (for steel tanks). Note! Be extremely careful during this step, as personal injury may result from scalding if the water is still hot. Ensure you are standing out of the flow path.
Once the hot water tank is completely empty, replace the plug or anode rod. It is a good idea to use Teflon tape (PTFE) on the threads. Do not use a steel plug in place of plastic, as this can result in galvanic corrosion between the two metals, possibly causing the plug to fuse to the tank threads. Inspect the anode rod for wear and replace if required. Do not use an anode rod in an aluminum tank such as an Atwood, and always use an anode rod in a steel tank such as a Suburban.
Turn off all water taps.
Close all water filter shutoff valves, drain the filter bowls, and remove the filter elements.
Close the water heater bypass valve(s).
Open the winterizing valve for the water pump and insert the tube into the antifreeze bottle.
Turn on the water pump.
Starting with the tapset furthest away from the water pump, open the cold water tap until antifreeze flows out of the faucet. Repeat the process with the hot water tap. Let the antifreeze run long enough to fill the P-trap.
Repeat this process for all tapsets in the RV, including all outside faucets. Periodically check the antifreeze bottle and replace it if the level goes too low for the pickup tube.
Flush all toilets until antifreeze flows into the bowl.
If you have a dishwasher or washing machine, winterize it according to manufacturer instructions.
Once all plumbing fixtures have been winterized, close the water pump winterizing valve and remove the antifreeze bottle.
If there is antifreeze left over, pour some into each drain and toilet bowl to ensure the P-traps are filled with antifreeze.
Antifreeze does stain, so be sure to wipe up any spills.

To ensure you have easy access to this handy checklist every year, feel free to download, print, and share with your RVing friends.

About the Author:

Preparing Your RV for Winter

22 Wednesday Oct 2014

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

RV tech tips, RV Tips, RV travel, Travel Tips, Winterizing

Winter will be here before we know it. And, when winter approaches, you need to winterize your RV. There are a number of steps involved, but if you follow this handy checklist, you will not miss a beat!

How to Winterize your RV:

1) First, you will need to drain all of the RV’s water tanks. You will want to make sure that you completely drain all of the black, gray and fresh water tanks at a sanitary dump station.

2) Remove water from the hot water heater and the water lines, too. All water needs to go to prevent freezing. For the water heater, the drain is typically on the bottom. Open up the drain, drain the water and any lime deposits. Next, go to the rear of the water heater and put it in bypass mode. If your water heater has 3 valves, put the top valve in the closed position, the middle valve in the open position and the bottom valve in the closed position. Go to the outside of the water heater and re-install the drain plug or anode rod if equipped. If your refrigerator has an icemaker or a water dispenser, be sure to disconnect and drain the lines at the refrigerator. Refer to your owner’s manual for the refrigerator to see if any special procedure needs to be performed.

You should also attach a plug, called a ‘Blowout Plug’ to your RV’s city water inlet. Connect the other end of this plug to your air compressor and set your air compressor to 30 psi. Then, blow air into the water inlet.

3) Walk around your RV and open up water valves, one at a time. Blow the water out from the lines. When you have blown out all of the water, close each valve and move on to the next.

4) Flush the toilet. Don’t forget the showers. Open up both the hot water line and the cold water line. Once you have done each of these fixtures, all of the water should be out of the freshwater system. Don’t forget about the air source, either. You will need to open up a faucet to get rid of any remaining pressure.

5) Pump antifreeze through all of the water lines.

6) You will also want to clean up your water tanks after a season’s worth of use. You can simply pour a cup of laundry detergent into your black and gray water tanks, and then dump detergent directly into your shower drain and toilet tanks.

Pour water into these drains in order to add them to the gray and black tanks. About ten gallons of water should suffice. You will want to dump ice into the toilet as this will give it help with the scrubbing process.

Then drive your RV around for about 15 miles, up and down hills, to help the scrubbing action of the tanks. When you dump the tanks for the last time, go over the valves of the tanks with a bit of 30 weight oil.

7) Once you are parked for the winter, pour a bit more antifreeze down each drain in order to help protect the trap. Then, close the toilet’s flush valve. You can pour a small amount of antifreeze into the toilet bowl, too.

8) If you are worried about mice or other animals getting into your RV, make sure to cover all of your external vents. They probably already have mesh inserts, but a little extra cover is very helpful at this time.

In addition to vents, look for any small openings that bugs or rodents could get in through, such as gaps around the door and windows. Weather stripping is an excellent ally here. In fact, you may want to weather strip whether you see any gaps or not. Better safe than sorry.

9) Take a final look around to check out the condition of the roof and check for any possible leak spots. Look over the entire exterior to see if any repairs need to be done. If there are small problems, they could turn into big ones as the RV sits for months, so avoid this and fix them today.

Finally, cover the RV with a loose cloth. And, if you prefer, you can put your RV up on blocks to protect the tires.

Now, wave a goodbye to your RV and tell her you will see her when it gets warm again!

Sources:

Coach-Net RV Technicians

http://www.wikihow.com/Winterize-an-RV

http://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/2807-top-7-steps-for-winterizing-your-rv-plumbing-system.html

http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/step-by-step-rv-winterizing-checklist.asp

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