Tag Archives: RV Tips

Cool RV Tools Every Camper Should Have!

02 Wednesday Nov 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Everyone has their favorite tools they bring along on an RV trip depending on your level of mechanical and DIY abilities. There have been numerous articles about the basics such as screwdrivers and pliers. Over the past 40 years of RVing and a few more before that working and owning a service station, I have gathered a few more that are pretty unique.

Several years ago I was conducting seminars at the California RV Show and pulled out a couple of meters and gauges that I used in one of the handyman series for testing and after the seminar, a few of the Winnebago Itasca Travelers (WIT) Club members came up and said; “I bet you have developed quite a unique set of tools and gadgets over the years?” And they were right, so I developed one of my most popular seminars called “Cool RV Tools, Gadgets, and must-have Apps”. I will share a few of the more unique ones with you in this article.

Electrical Tools

GFCI Tester

Before plugging into a campground electrical source, it’s important to make sure it has proper voltage and is wired correctly. Whether you are plugging into 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp service, it is important to verify the load wire/wires, neutral, and ground are all connected and not loose. Using a Surge Protector is a great option, however, I found this GFCI tester at Home Depot that not only tells me the wiring is good but also shows the voltage. You do not want to plug into anything that is below 106 volts or above 130 volts. Even if you use a multimeter or Surge Protector, this is a handy device to plug into an inside outlet for a quick reference of voltage and wiring.

Non-Contact Voltage Tester

This handy device will immediately tell you if there is power coming through an extension cord, appliance plug-in, or at an outlet without needing to dig deep into the outlet. If you get the type with a sensitivity dial, you can also test the outside of your rig for hot skin which is a voltage leak due to improper or loose wiring. These are available at home improvement and hardware stores.

Kill A Watt

Most people understand the basics of what they can run on 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp service such as only one roof air conditioner on 30 amps, either the air conditioner or the microwave but not both on 30 amps, and other common items found on your rig. But what power does a toaster draw? How about an air fryer, or hair dryer? It’s important to know what extra items you bring using power especially if you are using 20 or 30-amp power. The Kill A Watt is a handy device that plugs into an outlet and that you plug into an appliance such as an espresso machine, curling iron, or ceramic heater. It will tell you the Watts or Amp so you can better manage your energy usage.

Electrical Cord Holders

Several years ago I was following a friend that was an electrician and saw he had several extension cords and other items hanging on the cage in the back of his pickup. I caught up with him and found he had gotten an old tire inner tube from the local tire shop, cut a 2” band out of the middle, and wrapped it around the cords. He then put in hooks and had everything organized with a handy carrying loop.

I took this idea and have used it in RVs, for video production, and here is a photo of the electrical compartment we just organized for a friend with a Thor this summer. Everything is up off the floor and more room for “STUFF!”

Fresh Water Systems

Intellitec Digital Water Purity Tester

Campgrounds are required to have their water tested and certified once a year however, bacteria, arsenic, and other contaminants can be present between the tests. I found this device that can do a very quick test for impurities. It measures in parts per million (PPM) which means it does not identify what impurities rather there is something in the water that affects continuity between the probes and the higher the PPM, the more impurities. Today I can only find this on Amazon.

Filtermate Test Kit

Even if the water supply passes the average test, does not mean it is the best water source for your pets, children, or your rig’s water supply. Most campground water sources will be hard water which means there is calcium, lime, and rust that could clog up pipes, filters, and faucets. There are several test kits that will determine the hardness of the water, PH, and other chemicals that might be an issue at the campground. I find these mostly at home improvement stores. These kits can help determine if you need a water filter, and what kind.

Water Pressure Tester

Most campgrounds will have a well-type water system with a pump rather than a regulated municipal type. That means you could get low pressure or even worse, high pressure that your water lines and connections can not handle. Most RVs today have ½” plastic lines such as PEX with either a crimped-on ring at the connections or a compression-type fitting. Most can handle at least 40 psi or some up to 60 psi which is the water pressure coming into the rig. It’s important to test the water pressure before hooking up and to know what your rig can handle! My folks went to visit my brother and hooked up the city water hose to the outside faucet at his house and later that afternoon had a soaked floor. The connections could not handle the pressure and water just slowly seeped out.

Screw this onto the water supply at the campground or house to test the pressure. Or you can use the next tool!

Water Pressure Regulator/Filter

This is not actually a tool but rather an accessory but I include it as the type I like to use is not so common. Most RVers like to use an inline filter such as Camco or Shurflo which you sell all over the campground. I like to use a residential style on such as this Omni version that you often see under the sink in homes. This type of filter has a replaceable cartridge insert that can also be customized for the type of filtering you need. I can replace the cartridge for over half the cost of the all-in-one inline filter.

Notice the 40 psi reducer attached to the faucet as this old-style farm handle would give me 80 psi! Plus this is one of the few accordion-type hoses that is drinking water safe!

Winterizing Hose

I like to use compressed air to blow all the water out of the system rather than put in gallons and gallons of pink RV antifreeze. Usually, I do this by myself and there has not been a good method to connect the air hose of my compressor to the screw-in air valve to the city water fill. So I built my own using the male end of an old water hose that connects to the city water fill and added an air chuck with a worm clamp. This way I can connect this to the city water fill, turn the compressor down to 40 psi, connect the hose with the quick connect, and open all the faucets and other devices by myself.

Liquid Propane (LP)

LP Leak Detector

By RVIA code, all RVs come with an LP Leak Detector installed which has a sensor that will provide an audible beep if it detects LP in the air. This is usually located under a kitchen cabinet or other lower cabinet location as LP is heavier than air and will settle.

There are several areas that could have a slight LP leak that would not be detected by this unit such as at the DOT cylinders on trailers or ASME tank on a motorhome. All LP appliances have an LP hose and connection which could also leak and might not be detected by the device in locations like the back of the refrigerator, outside grill, outside kitchen, and the furnace. That is why I like to periodically check the connections with my own portable LP Leak Detector which I found on Amazon for $20.

This is a much more accurate and pinpoint device that allows you to test lines and connections that the floor-mounted device might not detect.

Gas Stop

Gas Stop is a device that will instantly and automatically shut off the LP delivery system in the event of a major leak such as a ruptured line or other failures. Even though all RV LP fuel supply containers have a spring-loaded excess flow valve, there is still a slight chance of malfunction of the valve and it can get stuck in bypass and appliances will not work. This device will also show you the level of LP in the container and can sense a very slight leak in the system.

Stay tuned, next month we will show a refrigerator vent blowout tool as well as a “comb” to straighten the evaporator coils. And then one of my favorites, the “Magnetizer”!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Swain W. ~ “Service was excellent and follow-up was fantastic. It means a lot to be taken care of when you are down. Very happy with everyone’s performance I would not have known what to do or who to call if I had not had Coach-Net. You all were excellent.” 

Improving Your RVs Fuel Efficiency

05 Wednesday Oct 2022

Posted by in RV Information, Tips & Tricks

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Whether you are driving a truck pulling a trailer or a motorhome with a “toad”, there are some things you can do to improve your fuel efficiency or miles per gallon (mpg). Small items we typically take for granted such as tires, maintenance, and driving characteristics can all make a difference.

Proper Tire Pressure

The pounds per square inch (psi) stamped on the side of your tire is maximum psi at its maximum weight which is not necessarily the proper tire pressure. Proper tire inflation can only be factored in by weighing the coach to determine what the actual weight is on the tires. Most large motorhomes’ 5th wheels have a cargo carrying capacity (CCC) of several thousand pounds and may not be even close to the maximum weight rating or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The only way to verify proper tire inflation is to weigh the rig by individual wheel position and go to the tire inflation chart for your brand of tire. These can be found at www.rvsafety.com.

The Recreational Vehicle Safety And Education Foundation (RVSEF) has been weighing coaches for almost 30 years and recently recommended that smaller trailers should use the psi listed on the tire as they are relatively close to GVWR. Proper tire inflation provides the appropriate amount of tread on the road.

For example, the new Faulken tires on my 2016 Silverado read 51 psi at a maximum load of 2,601 lbs. The tire sticker inside the door shows 35 psi. The tire dealer recommended 42 psi and on a recent trip to Colorado, the truck bounced and banged all the way through Nebraska! I adjusted the pressure down to 34 psi and what a difference.

Overinflation will not reduce mpg however underinflation will as it causes additional resistance of the tread to the road surface. According to RVSEF over 50% of RVs they have weighed have underinflated tires. Their weighing teams have been conducting individual wheel position weighing at Rallies, dealerships, and special events for over 30 years. Underinflated tires not only cause premature tread wear and the potential for blown tires, but the resistance will also affect fuel economy.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum your rig can weigh with all the cargo, water, and LP. With motorized RVs, the GVWR also includes the people inside the rig as you will be in it while driving. The more weight you are driving down the road, the harder the engine has to work which means lower fuel efficiency.

I have driven several units on a gas rig and did notice a difference when towing a car or having the unit full of cargo and people. On trips to Colorado, a 36-foot motorhome with very little cargo and only two people got 8-9 mpg and one that was loaded got around 6-7 mpg! This is something that you will need to try with your rig and the power of your engine. A gas engine towing the same weight will get substantially less mpg than a diesel however the diesel fuel will typically cost more.

Proper Maintenance

Although this may not seem like something that would affect fuel efficiency, not doing regular maintenance can lead to dirty filters that restrict airflow causing the engine works harder than normal. Make sure all engine filters have been changed to specifications and fluids are up to date as well. This also means checking the axles and wheels on trailers and getting the bearings repacked as recommended. Most trucks today have sealed bearings in a complete hub and can not be lubricated however, your trailer bearings typically can. Make sure you do annual maintenance on the trailer bearings and brakes. Most axle manufacturers recommend repacking and inspecting the bearings once a year or every 15,000 miles.

Another factor that can impact your mpg is the brake drum and tire. When I owned a trucking company, I would have my drivers use an infrared laser thermometer to record temperatures of the hub, brake drum, and tire every time they stopped for fuel. Extremely hot temperatures were an indicator of bearings getting dry or brakes set to high which could cause a failure, but we also noticed it affected fuel economy as well.

Driving Characteristics

Keep in mind you are basically driving a “Billboard” down the road and winds, especially strong headwinds will affect your fuel economy. Try to avoid wind if possible, some RVers pull over and relax during windy conditions and wait for a more enjoyable driving experience.

Several highway studies have shown that driving between 55-65 mph will provide the best fuel economy and also staying at a consistent speed helps as well. How and when you drive can also affect fuel economy. The more traffic you find means the more fluctuation of speeds you will encounter and affect fuel economy as well. If possible, plan your trips for times with less traffic or reroute to avoid high traffic such as big city driving or mountains.

Fuel

My truck is designed for “FlexFuel” so I can choose to run Premium, Super Unleaded, or E85. I typically run Super Unleaded at 87 Octane and tried Premium during one of my trips and did not see any difference in fuel economy.

However, when Super Unleaded hit the $4.79 mark one of our local fuel stations had E85 for $2.99 so I tried a couple of tanks and my fuel economy dropped by 4-5 mpg! Saving $1.80 per gallon did still make financial sense, but now that Super Unleaded is down to $3.49 and E85 went up to $3.29 it doesn’t make sense. I have also tried Seafoam as well as several other fuel saver products and did not see any difference.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Robert L. ~ “This is an outstanding service you provide. Anyone who has an RV should take advantage of it. You took a very stressful situation off my hands and I had complete confidence in the outcome. Thank you very much.” 

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) – Is My DEF Expired?

07 Wednesday Sep 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Before we start, here’s a quick review of Deisel Exhaust Fluid. DEF is designed to treat exhaust coming through the exhaust chamber to meet emissions that were implemented in 2010. Basically, the government issued mandates for lower emissions from diesel engines. DEF uses a mixture of Urea (32.5%) and water (67.5%) sprayed on the exhaust fumes which reduces the NOx to nitrogen and water in order to meet the recommended levels. Since my last article on DEF for Coach-Net was published we have been getting numerous questions regarding DEF and its shelf life, how we know if it’s contaminated, and how to get rid of it.

Is There A Shelf Life For DEF?

I talked with a representative from Blue Sky that stated their DEF has a general one-year shelf life. They went on to state that the Urea will degrade if exposed to direct sunlight or stored in temperatures above 90 degrees. The actual amount of degradation can not be determined unless you purchase a DEF tester.

The representative went on to clarify that if the DEF is stored between temperatures of 10 degrees to 90 degrees it has a one-year shelf life BUT if it is kept out of sunlight and under 75 degrees, it can be used for up to two years, however, it’s best not to use it if it’s over 3 years old.

I have run a company for the past 10 years that had 3 diesel trucks pulling trailers that put over 100,000 miles on each vehicle every year, therefore we have had lots of experience and education regarding DEF. In face, we received a service notice from Ford Motor Company on DEF Shelf Life vs Temperature which listed the following:

Constant Ambient Storage Temperature / Shelf Life In Months

  • ≤ 50 °F degrees – 36 months
  • < 77 °F degrees – 18 months
  • ≤ 86 °F degrees – 12 months
  • ≤ 95 °F degrees – 6 months
  • < 104 °F degrees – 2 months

Interpreting DEF Codes

How do you know when your DEF was produced in order to determine its shelf life? Off-the-shelf products such as the 2.5-gallon versions have a code on the box that includes a date stamp. However, these codes can be difficult to decipher.

I talked with Peak Technical Product Support and he said there are many different codes used on their product due to the bottling and packaging at different plants all over the country. He dissected this one for me as follows:

23/169 /CP7/ 00591/ 0125

  • 23 is a year minus 1 year=2022
  • 169 is how many days are left in the year 2022=July 15, 2022
  • Cp7 is the bottling plant
  • 00591 is tank number
  • 0125 is the batch number

He also stated that they have a two-year shelf life recommendation however it was best to purchase a digital refractometer to be sure what you are putting in your tank has not expired. If you have any doubts as to the date code recommend, call their tech support number and a technician will help dissect the code for you. He also stated that both Walmart and Home Depot are the largest distributors and would have the newest product.

DEF Life At The Pump

Ok, but what about the DEF that is pumped at a larger fueling station from an underground tank and does not have anything printed? The easiest way to tell if the DEF has expired or been contaminated is by looking at it. When DEF is in good shape, it should look clear and free of any contaminants or discoloration. If it is cloudy, discolored, or difficult to see through, it is likely expired.

I spoke with a technician at Cummins and they stated that The NOx sensors monitor the DEF quality and will provide an indication when DEF is not in compliance which is the check engine light.

So what happens if you do have a full tank of DEF and the dreaded “Check Engine” light shows? There are service centers that will drain the tank for you however it can be expensive. Alternatively, you can do it yourself with a mechanical pump or even a hand pump depending on how much you have in the tank. If you have a truck the DEF tank will only be about 3-4 gallons which can be pumped out with a hand pump and put in an empty DEF container or gallon jugs.

According to Daimler Worldwide and specifically the Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation (FCCC):

DEF life will vary based on temp and direct sunlight, so having the tank in a compartment like it is on RVs is much better than on a vehicle where the tank is exposed to direct sunlight. FCCC has not seen a large number of people having an issue with DEF quality, but I would recommend always leaving some room in the tank so that if you do get an indicator you can still put some fresh DEF in the tank and help revive the DEF quality. In some cases service centers have had to force air into the tank with a hose and then have a second hose to allow it to drain, but that’s certainly not the norm.

What Do You Do If You Have Expired DEF In Your Tank?

So if the shelf life is one year, what should we do about units that have DEF sitting in the tank for longer than that? I’ve talked with several owners who stored their rig during the pandemic and their DEF could be 2-3 years old! As FCCC indicated, try to leave the tank less than ½ full as you can strengthen or rejuvenate degraded DEF with the addition of new DEF!

Being from the Midwest, I contacted the local farm equipment dealer as well as PetroBlend, one of the largest distributors of DEF in the agricultural industry. They stated the very same thing that proper DEF management is the key, as sometimes combines will not go through their 30-gallon tank for a couple of years.

Where Can You Properly Dispose Of Bad DEF?

The internet is flooded with DEF information with some stating it is the same chemical composition as fertilizer so you can dump it just about anywhere. While DEF is non toxic, it should be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way. Do not pour bad DEF down the drain or dump it on the side of the road. It’s recommended to contact your local environmental waste disposal company for a nearby disposal site. I also called the local landfill as they have a hazardous materials division and they will take it at no cost as it is considered residential and falls under fertilizer or engine fluids. Anything over 10 gallons is considered commercial and assessed per gallon.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Sean S. ~ “If you’re on the fence about this, jump on over. Coach-Net paid for itself for us with a freak accident within the first 24 hours of signing up. You never know when something could go wrong and you’ll be wishing you had gotten this coverage.” 

5 Reasons to Travel in an RV Instead of A Car

11 Thursday Aug 2022

Posted by in Traveling with your Pet, Uncategorized

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RVs are a great way to travel. They take you off the beaten path and into nature. There are many types of RVs to choose from, ranging from Class A motor homes to Class C motor homes and even pop-up campers. The choice is yours based on your needs and your budget.

These vehicles have skyrocketed in popularity in recent years, and some people are even converting their RVs into permanent homes. No wonder! It’s a great way to lower overhead and enjoy living and traveling without sacrificing comfort or style. There are a variety of reasons why people choose to travel in recreational vehicles. Here are some reasons you might want to as well.

RVs Bring More Comfort

There’s no comparison between the comfort of a car and that of a recreational vehicle. With an RV, you often have access to a bathroom and kitchen too, so you don’t have to deal with the discomforts of “holding it” until you can find a bathroom or waiting until you can find a restaurant to eat in. You can cook a meal on the road and enjoy it in comfort.

When you travel the country in an RV, you explore the countryside in comfort and style, without having to put up with the hassles of a traditional hotel stay (or worse, having to sleep in your car). Your lodging travels with you and it’s easy to access.

RVs Can Be a Cheaper Way to Travel

Recreational vehicles are often cheaper to run than rental cars or public transportation, especially if you camp instead of using paid overnight sites. Some large box stores, like Walmart, welcome recreational vehicles overnight too. Needless to say, that’s cheaper than staying in a hotel. The conveniences of home can be brought along without worrying about paying for lodgings. If you have an RV or camper van, then you’re probably already aware of some of the great benefits that bring. Your lodging travels with you.

RVs Have More Storage Space

If you like to bring the house with you when you travel, an RV is the obvious choice. The spacious interior allows you to set up your house inside for maximal comfort and convenience when you travel. The first and foremost benefit is that you will have more space and storage required to accommodate your personal items. This will give you the freedom to carry along your favorite things while traveling.

You Can Bring Your Pets Comfortably

One of the worst aspects of traveling in a car is how hard it makes it to bring your pets along, but it’s easier in a recreational vehicle with the extra room. Although there are a few guidelines you need to follow when traveling with pets in an RV, the benefits are well worth the extra effort. Not only will your pet have a wonderful time riding with you, but you also get to enjoy his/her company in a different way than you usual. Don’t leave Fido behind!

A RV Can Be Your Office on Wheels

RVs have long been an affordable and fun way to travel the open road. And now, thanks to technology and the entrepreneurial spirit, you can get an office on wheels to stay productive no matter where ever you roam. If you’re using your recreational vehicle as an office, you may also be able to write off a portion of it to save on taxes. Many people dream of having an office in their RV so they can travel all over the country while accomplishing their work goals. It’s more achievable than ever!

The Bottom Line

Traveling in an RV is an experience unlike any other. From the amount of freedom that comes from traveling wherever, whenever, to the amenities and comforts of home, a recreational vehicle can make your travels easier, cheaper, and more comfortable. RVs are anything but just a vehicle to get from one place to another. They are, in fact, a home away from home for those who love to travel in comfort. Take advantage of it by planning an excursion of your own, RV-style!

Douglas M. ~ “The concern displayed by the call agent was awesome. The response was fast by the service provider and was terrific. Thanks so very much for this fantastic coverage!” 

Effective Tips For Increasing Your RV Air Conditioner Efficiency

03 Wednesday Aug 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

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With record temperatures hitting almost every part of the nation, I’m getting quite a number of questions on how to make the old Coleman and Dometic roof air conditioners cool more efficiently. I know we have featured this in the past however, there are some new products on the market as well as a little trick I found when it comes to the standard air diverters in ducted roof air conditioners.

First, Regular Maintenance

Most RV owners don’t know there is some maintenance required to keep the roof AC running efficiently. After all, they never had to do anything to their unit at home why is it any differently? Let’s take a look at how the RV roof air conditioner works and what we can do periodically to help it work as designed.

When the thermostat calls for cooler air, the motor starts in the system and draws the warm, moist interior air up through the air return in the ceiling.

 

Whether your unit is a direct flow like this older unit or it is ducted throughout the ceiling, the air return will have a thin filter to catch dust, dander, or other objects. This filter must be checked and cleaned periodically or it will block airflow and not only make the unit run less efficiently but could ruin the compressor and motor.

The warm moist air comes up through the return and is pulled through the evaporator coil at which time the coolant has been sent from the compressor and “flashes” which pulls heat out and moisture. The evaporator coil needs to be checked and cleaned periodically as well.

Here is a unit from the local campground that stopped working. The evaporator coil was caked with body powder! This unit sat directly above the bedroom area where the owner created a cloud of powder every morning! The evaporator needs to be checked and cleaned at least once a year. You can access this from the inside by pulling off the return air shroud and looking up through the hole.

This is what a good evaporator coil should look like. You can use a small portable vacuum to clean the coils however if they are really dirty, you will need to go up on the roof, take off the shroud, and then take off the evaporator housing and clean it. If you use a garden hose, cover the return air vent or you will get water inside the rig. If you get water or moisture spraying out when the air conditioner is blowing, it could be the drain holes are plugged and moisture is trapped in the drip pan. Check these periodically as well.

Next, the coolant flows back to the condenser coil where outside air is drawn into it down so it can go through the cycle again. Even with 110-degree outside heat, the air drawn in is much less than the high temperatures the coolant can reach. Make sure the condenser fins are not blocking airflow and are straight. It’s not uncommon to see flattened fins from hail or tree branches especially the older units with flat open backs. Some manufacturers are putting them at an angle or in a circle with a covered vent.

Create Inside Airflow

The roof air conditioner of your RV can only cool or “condition” air down 16 degrees from what it is pulling in. As your unit sits in the sweltering sun, inside temperatures can get 20-30 degrees hotter than the outside temperature and sometimes even more. And since hot air rises, the temperature at the inside ceiling of your rig could be 120 degrees! That means your roof air conditioner will pull it in and blowback 104 degrees into your rig. Use your roof vents, windows, and fans to move air around and pull as much warm moist air out as possible if your rig is sweltering.

Create A More Efficient Ducted Airflow

If you have a direct flow unit in which the air comes directly out of vents on the unit, there is not much you can do to improve the airflow as it is basically dumped out like a residential window air conditioner. However, if you have vents in the ceiling and air is distributed from the unit through ductwork there are some modifications you can perform.

Both ducted and non-ducted roof airs are basically the same unit with a few additional components. For ducted models, the unit is shipped with a generic baffle or thin piece of material, typically foam that the manufacturer needs to cut to length and insert into the opening. This is what diverts or directs the air coming from the fan to the ductwork rather than vents on the bottom of the unit.

Here is the diverter on a 2015 Thor Challenger we worked on recently. Notice the back of the unit, behind the diverter, has a side duct going back to the vents. Also, notice all the gaps above and on the side of the diverter! This allows air to blow back into the air return rather than going to the ductwork. Also, when the air comes off the fan it goes straight down and hits the shroud or plastic cover it creates a whirlwind effect and again, limits the airflow. All these gaps and connecting points can be covered with duct sealing tape that you can get at any home improvement store. I would even suggest getting the insulated foam tape and covering all exposed metal as this will also create condensation if left exposed.

To help even further, RV Airflow Systems has developed an aftermarket kit that can be installed to take away the whirlwind effect and increase airflow by 40%. At least that is what they claim. Next month we will be installing one on this unit and will let you know how well it works but it does make sense! You can find more information on their website here: rvairflow.com/collections/all

Lower Your Initial Amp Draw And Use Two Roof AC Units

When the thermostat calls for cooler temperatures and your unit’s motor and compressor kick in, the initial amp draw can be as high as 50 amps or more. Normally that is more than a 30 amp circuit at a campground could handle however, it is just for a short amount of time and typically does not blow the breaker at the pedestal. But it does limit you from using two roof air units on a 30 amp service if they both kick in at the same time. Plus it is a constant issue when you bring the rig home to get it ready for the next camping trip and plug it into a 20 amp garage outlet. Also, if you have a trailer and are using a portable generator rather than shoreline power, you can’t use one of the smaller units just because of the high amp draw at start-up.

Last month we installed and tested a new product called Soft Start RV that reduces the initial amp draw by almost 70%. It also eliminated the annoying “thumping” at start-up and our initial tests showed a startup amp draw of only 10 amps! It is easy to install with just 6 wires and no cutting of any existing roof air conditioner wires. If you can crimp on a few spade connections and get on the roof, you can install this in less than 1 hour. And they have excellent USA-based technical support!

Just a note: SoftStartRV or any other amp reduction product on the market will not make your roof air conditioner run more efficiently during normal operation. It is just during the initial start-up which has a high amp draw.

Check out the video and get a $30 discount through the RV Repair Club here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Adam H. ~“We had a tire blowout.  I want to thank the staff at Coach-Net for their quick response in finding an excellent tire shop with the correct size and brand very quickly. Communication with Coach-Net, the tire shop and us was excellent.  A bad day turned out pretty well as we were back on the road very quickly thanks to your help!”

12 Camping Safety Rules for Children

20 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in RV Safety

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Children love camping. They get the freedom to run around and explore, and the entire experience is one big adventure for them. Camping also provides an excellent family bonding experience and an opportunity for kids to learn more about nature.

Of course, you will want to give your kids the freedom to enjoy the outdoors. However, the woods are not as safe as your backyard. Consequently, setting safety rules to keep kids safe on a camping trip would be wise. Here are twelve safety rules to allow kids to enjoy a family camping trip and stay safe.

1. Stay Within the Campsite Boundaries

Beyond the boundaries of the immediate campsite, there are likely miles and miles of unpopulated country containing wild animals, water hazards, and other dangers. And in wooded areas, it will be easy for children to lose their way. It is best, therefore, to set boundaries around the campsite beyond which children must not go.

2. Stay Together

When children go outside the campsite boundary, it is best to always go in twos. Younger kids might partner up with an older sibling if they go exploring. Alternatively, you might prefer to insist on an adult accompanying a younger child. If children are never alone, there will always be someone there to raise the alarm should a child have an accident.

3. Keep the Campsite Clean

Animals have a keen sense of smell. So, kids should be aware of the dangers of leaving litter out. If you leave out any food, scraps, or garbage, you might get wild animals visiting your campsite, including bears. Consequently, cleanliness is even more important when camping.

4. Don’t Touch the Campfire

Sitting around the campfire is part of the family camping experience. Still, children need to be extra careful around fire. So, kids should be supervised when you have a campfire, and there should be no playing with the fire or embers. The same applies to lanterns, stoves, and grills.

5. Never Approach a Wild Animal

Wild animals may look cute and cuddly, but they have teeth! Kids should be taught never to approach wild animals or try to pet them. It would also be wise to explain to children that even harmless-looking small or young animals should be left alone. Wherever there is a baby animal, there is likely to be a much larger and very protective mum or dad nearby.

6. Always Carry a Whistle

It’s a good idea to give children a safety whistle on a camping trip, both at the campsite and when hiking. Then, if kids lose sight of their parents or can’t find their way back to camp, they can call for help with the whistle. However, you will also need to establish that the whistle is only for use in an emergency.

7. Don’t Eat Anything You Find

Berries, nuts, and mushrooms you find in the woods might look tempting. However, they might be poisonous. So, kids should be taught not to eat anything they find in the woods, even if it appears to be something they would eat at home. You should also not drink any water you find, however clean and refreshing it may look.

8. Drink Plenty of Water

Children are likely to be highly active on a camping holiday, and, if you are lucky, the sun will be shining too. Consequently, it will be easy for kids to get dehydrated. So, kids should be encouraged to drink plenty of water throughout the day. But, as mentioned above, they should only drink the water you provide.

9. Stay on The Trail

When hiking, older children will likely want to run ahead of you and explore by themselves. When they do, it would be best for them to stick to the trail and stay within sight of their parents or guardians. And as mentioned above, children should also carry their safety whistles. If kids go off-trail, they can quickly get lost or stumble into a dangerous situation.

10. No Bare Feet

It is best not to allow kids to run around barefoot when camping. You might want to use sandals or flip-flops around the campsite, but sturdier footwear will be needed when hiking trails. Without shoes, kids’ feet can be injured by thorns, rocks, and poisonous plants. The no bare feet rule is also a good one for adults to follow.

11. Watch Out for Poisonous Plants

If kids are unfamiliar with the outdoors, giving them a pre-camping-trip lesson on identifying poisonous plants would be a good move. Show them pictures of poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac, and tell them to avoid these plants. Insect nests should be avoided, too. So, ‘no poking ants, hornets, or any other insect nests’ would be another good camping safety rule to have in place.

12. No Food or Fire inside Tents

Your kids will undoubtedly know not to play with fire. Nevertheless, items such as matches and lighters may be easier to come by on the campsite. So, it is worth reinforcing this rule and emphasizing the dangers of having a naked flame inside or near tents. It is also best not to allow food inside tents because it attracts wildlife.

Conclusion

Making a load of rules for kids on holiday might feel like you are taking some of the fun out of camping. But kids can still have plenty of fun and freedom, even when playing within the boundaries of these rules. What’s more, if you play it safe, there is less chance that you will have to cut the holiday short. So, not only will a few camping safety rules keep your kids safe, but they will also ensure the fun lasts for longer.

Scott H. ~ “We have been extremely happy with Coach-Net’s service agents as well as the overall service that they provide.”

Summer Plumbing And Fresh Water Tips

06 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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As the dog days of summer approach, it is important to take a few precautions when it comes to your freshwater tanks, plumbing fixtures, and staying hydrated yourself!

Most RVers understand the issues with water in tanks and pipes when RVing in below-freezing weather however they don’t realize the issues when it comes to really hot temperatures.  

Fresh Water In Tanks And Pipes

Typically the water you use in your RV is going to be hard water coming from the campground source. This water is not treated and can contain minerals and even some harmful components. Even though campgrounds are required to have the well water tested once a year, it doesn’t guarantee the water is good all year round! According to the CDC, hot weather and extreme drought can lower water levels in the wells and cause contamination. I am a firm believer in testing the water from the campground source prior to hooking it up to your rig. A simple tester is this Intellitec version that will tell you the particles per million which doesn’t tell exactly what is in the water, just the level of acceptable particles.

Essentially, it measures continuity as the cleaner the water, the less continuity between the probes. It is also a good indicator that it is time to change your filter as there are more minerals present when the filter is not working properly.

To get more specific about what is in the water, you can purchase a kit that will test over 20 different minerals, PH levels, and even arsenic.

These are simple tests that use a test strip and can even tell the hardness and alkalinity of the well water.

Always Use A Filter

Even if the water is testing ok, I still recommend a filter to keep calcium, lime, and rust out of your water system. These can clog the in-line screen to your water pump, get particles in the diaphragm of your water pump, and clog up faucets and shower heads.

There are several types such as this in-line filter or even the residential version you can find at a home improvement store. I like this Omni version as you can replace the cartridge for a few dollars rather than the entire cartridge like the in-line version.

If you really want to get fancy and go over the top in water quality, you can get a multi-canister system that will even filter bacteria and then add a water softener!

I would also recommend a water pressure regulator as some well pumps could have a higher pressure than your plumbing lines or fittings can handle!

Use an approved fresh water drinking hose

You want to use a connecting hose that is approved for “Potable” or fresh water as a typical garden hose will have not only a bad taste but when left out in the heat, can actually transfer chemicals from the rubber and plastics used into the water.

Don’t leave water in the RV during storage

If you are not going to use your rig for over 2 weeks in extreme heat, it is a good idea to drain all the water out of the freshwater tanks, water heater, lines, and refrigerator ice maker. Basically, winterize it by blowing out all the water. The hot weather will raise the temperature of the hard water and could be an incubator for bacteria and other pathogens unless the temperature reaches the boiling point of 212 degrees which will then sanitize the water. That will probably not happen even on the hottest days in Death Valley!

Drain, flush, and drain your holding tanks

Make sure both the black and gray water tanks have been drained, thoroughly flushed, and re-drained several times to ensure there is nothing that can grow in the tanks. I recommend using Tank Blaster in the black water tank and dumping/draining it. Then plug or cover all drains to sinks, showers, and toilets as there could be standing water in the “P” traps or other areas.

Do not leave any personal water containers sitting outside

If you carry fresh water in gallon jugs or larger jugs or have a case of individual water bottles, it’s not uncommon to store these under the rig when you get to camp as they can take up a lot of room inside when you want to be RVing. During extreme heat, the plastic can give off toxic components that will mix in with the water. Make sure if you do keep them outside they are in the shade at all times and do not get over 90 degrees.

Keep Hydrated

Probably the best tip is to make sure everyone gets enough water during the summer and extreme heat, especially the kids and pets. Metal pet bowls can get very hot in the sun so keep them in the shade and replenish the water often.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Karl P. ~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires and checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”

8 Important Tire Safety Tips Every RVer Should Know

06 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Obviously, staying safe while driving your RV down the road is of the utmost importance. Keeping your roadside assistance is one great way to go about this, and knowing how to properly load and tow your rig is also imperative.

Another super key part of towing or driving your RV safely? RV tire safety.

Clearly, nobody wants to have a tire blowout in any vehicle. That said, having one of your RV tires blow could be a disaster. Therefore, it’s definitely a good idea to buy the best tires possible for your rig and keep those RV tires in tip-top shape.

Not sure where to begin when it comes to RV tire safety? We’re here to help. Using the tips below will help you stay safe during travel so you can fully enjoy your destinations.

Purchase the Right Tire Type

First and foremost, you’ll want to make sure you know the type of tire you require. First, check the tire size stamped on the sidewall of your current tires. Knowing the difference between LT and ST tires is also a good idea, and having a good understanding of the weight of your rig and what certain tires can handle will be helpful in choosing the right set of tires.

If you feel unsure, discuss options with a knowledgeable tire salesperson before making a final decision.

Buy a Spare

When purchasing a new set of RV tires, be sure to replace the spare too. It can be tempting to skip out on buying a new spare tire, but one day in the future when you need your spare, you will definitely be thankful to have one you know you can rely on.

Check the Date of Manufacture

Before purchasing tires, check the sidewalls for the date stamp to learn when the tires were made. Generally, tires should be replaced six years after the date of manufacture, regardless of how much they have been used. If the tires being sold to you are more than a year old, insist on having newer tires put on. Additionally, it’s important to make a note of when your tires will expire so you can have them replaced before then.

Inflate Properly

Proper tire inflation can make all the difference in the world. It can completely change how your RV drives, and it can change how your tires wear and how long they last. Keep an eye on your tire inflation and adjust it before every trip in the RV.

Get an Alignment

Poor alignment on a motorhome can wreak havoc on your RV tires. Be sure your motorhome is properly aligned before putting on a new set of tires in order to avoid uneven wear. This will also help ensure your tires last as long as possible.

Cover Tires in Storage

Believe it or not, sitting still can also damage your tires. If you store your RV outside, be sure to cover the tires to protect them from the intense rays of the sun. After pulling your RV out of storage, check your tires for damage before heading out on a trip.

Inspect Tires During Walkarounds

A walk around the outside of your rig before every RV trip is essential to ensure you’re safe on the road. These walkarounds should always include a look at each of your RV tires. Be sure to check for chipping, uneven wear, splitting, or other signs of damage.

Invest in a TPMS

Last but not least, we highly recommend investing in a good tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). An RV TPMS will warn you if a tire is losing air so you can pull over before a bigger problem arises. Just be sure the system you purchase is compatible with your rig.

As you can see, there are many things you can do to ensure your RV tires are as safe as possible. Of course, there is no guaranteed way to prevent all issues. Therefore, RV roadside assistance remains incredibly important to have.

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Ken H. ~ “We’ve been with Coach-Net for over 9 years, and every time we have needed them, they have come through for us! Everyone from the call agents to the tow provider is always friendly, quick, and professional!”

6 Things That Need to Be Maintained on an RV

15 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Owning an RV is a fantastic investment for outdoorsy people and families. If you own an RV, you can spontaneously hit the road and travel anywhere at any time! Plus, you’re more likely to go camping and enjoy the Great Outdoors if you have an RV sitting outside.

Importance of Maintenance Checks for RV

Before you embark on your next road trip, it is essential to check that your RV is safe to drive. The maintenance of any vehicle is vital to help prevent breakdowns, safety problems, or costly headaches. After all, purchasing an RV is certainly not cheap! 

To learn more about the importance of routine maintenance, check out these tips to alleviate financial stress.

How Often Should I Perform RV Maintenance? 

The frequency of maintenance for your RV will depend on how often you use it and what type of maintenance is performed. In general, some maintenance should be performed annually, while other things can be left for a quick check-up before you use your RV.  

Things to Maintain on your RV

1. Tires

The whole point of an RV is to drive it. As such, your RV’s tires are likely to be prone to wear and tear. Just like a car or any other vehicle, tire maintenance is essential for safety. Before you embark on your next RV adventure, perform a visual inspection of the tires. Look for uneven tread wear, low pressure, or visible problems. It is a good idea to invest in a tire pressure gauge in case your tire pressure gets wonky on the road. For more information on tire care, check out our previous blog here.

2. Batteries & Lights

Your RV’s batteries must be maintained in the same way as any other vehicle. Most batteries will last between three to five years but should be checked regularly, as failure and malfunctions may occur. Proper RV battery maintenance also includes appropriate storage during the cold winter months. When not using your RV, take out the battery and store it in a warm place. This will help ensure it won’t freeze or break, which can void the battery warranty.

For safety purposes, all of your RV’s lights must be working correctly, including the high beams, brake lights, fog lamps, and turn signals. This will help make sure you’re safe on the road, as well as for the protection of other drivers you share the road with.

3. Oil and Oil Filters

Oil changes on a regular schedule are essential to ensure your engine runs smoothly. Without oil changes, your engine could be damaged, leading to costly problems or repairs. Your RV’s owner manual should tell you how frequently (in mileage) the manufacturer recommends oil changes and if you should be using synthetic oil.

Looking for more ways to save money on your car and RV needs? Find the best car insurance here.

4. RV Generator

An RV generator works to provide electricity to appliances and equipment in your RV. When your RV is not used, it is important to periodically run the generator to prevent build-up on the carburetor. Experts recommend having your RV generator professionally serviced once per year. Each month, you should aim to run your generator for at least two hours at 50% load each time.

5. Sewer System

Using biodegradable RV toilet paper will help protect your sewer system in your RV. Clearing the holding tank regularly is also crucial in regular maintenance, preventing unwanted backups. 

6. Roof of your RV

Often, RV owners neglect roof maintenance. Inspecting the roof seams and seals at least twice per year is essential. As you examine your RV’s roof, you may wish to apply a sealant layer on top, preventing and protecting against water damage which can lead to expensive repairs.

RV Roadside Assistance

Worried about breaking down on the side of the road? Consider adding RV roadside assistance to help protect yourself. Coach-Net offers 24/7 RV technical and roadside assistance, tire and wheel protection, and many other amazing benefits to help you feel confident and assured on your trip.

Planning your next RV adventure but not sure where to go? Check out this ultimate RV trips guide to inspire your next adventure. Whether you’re looking for a short trip or a cross-country vacation, these top ten road trip circuits provide great inspiration.

Author: Tim Setterfield

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Thomas Z. ~ “Kudos to Coach-Net! I served the Northeast Area of another roadside company for over 12 years including President & National VP. I recommend Coach-Net over all the others every time. Outstanding company 🔥💥”

Brake, Bearing, and Axle Maintenance

08 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

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The RV season is fast approaching and for many, it’s already here so it’s time to talk about brakes, bearings, and axle maintenance. Although there is not a lot of maintenance that is required, it is important to do periodic inspections to know what is happening to the brakes and inside the hubs and there are different procedures depending on your type of RV such as a trailer vs motorized.

Trailer Brakes

Typically trailers will have electric brakes designed into the hub of the axle that is activated by a brake controller inside the tow vehicle as the brake pedal is applied. Most larger trucks will have a brake controller built into the dash and electrical system while smaller units will need one installed.

Trailer brakes should be visually checked at least once a year and spring is a good time. Most trailer brakes will have a magnet and brake pads that push against the drum.

First, inspect the brake pad to ensure there is enough material still available to stop the rig. Most axle manufacturers such as Dexter recommend replacing the shoes if they are less than 1/16th of an inch thick. At the same time, the drum surface should be inspected for scratches or grooves.

If there are slight grooves, the drums can be “turned” which is a process of grinding or cutting the metal smooth however, this can only be done to a certain thickness and needs to be done by a professional.

This whole process requires some DIY ability, tools, and a place to work on it and the average RVer will probably just take it into a service center. Check out the video at RV Repair Club to determine if you want to tackle this yourself here.

What you can do on a regular basis is check the braking resistance and manually apply the trailer brakes with the brake controller a few times a year. Start by driving with the trailer connected at a speed of 10 mph in a parking lot and apply the brake controller manually without pressing the tow vehicle brake. You should feel resistance and the higher you set the controller, the more resistance.

If you do not feel a resistance, you can check to see if there is electrical power getting to the magnet in the hub. This can be done with a multimeter or expensive break force meter but a simple test is to use a compass placed next to the hub, apply the brake of the tow vehicle as it is connected to the trailer, and watch for the compass to spin. If the magnet is energized, the compass will go wild. If not, there is no power going to the magnet.

Bearings

Over the years there have been great changes in the bearings used in trailers as well as the way we lubricate them. Dexter has a great product called EZ Lube with a grease fitting on the outside that channels grease through the shaft to the inner bearing and pushes it through to the outer bearing. This applies new grease and pushes out any contaminated or overheated grease. However, they do still recommend repacking the bearing every 12 months or 12,000 miles.

The main thing to remember is, as the wheels turn going down the road, the bearings are exposed to extreme heat and friction and they must be lubricated no matter what type you have. Periodic inspection is a must and a good practice is to use an infrared temperature sensor to check the temperature occasionally to know what is happening behind the hub.

It is not uncommon to see 20-30 degrees higher temperatures than ambient however if there is a spike you know the bearings are starting to get dry and need to have them looked at before needing to have them replaced on the side of the road!

Axle Maintenance

There is virtually no maintenance needed on a trailer axle however, there are a few important weight considerations and jacking procedures. Axles have specific weight ratings termed Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) which is the maximum weight that should be on an individual axle. It’s important to have your rig weighed to ensure you are not exceeding the GAWR or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Otherwise, the excess weight can make the axle bend and cause issues with tire wear and braking.

Most axle manufacturers do not recommend placing a jack on the axle or braces to fix or replace a tire as it could bend the axle. RV manufacturers have specified jack points on the frame for this purpose.

Tow Vehicles

Most trucks today have sealed bearings that can not be lubricated or visually inspected, but rather need to be replaced when they start to grind. Typically this is at a very high mileage. Over the past 5 trucks, I have had, I only replaced one bearing assembly with approximately 140,000 miles. You do however need to check the brakes occasionally and there are quite a few opinions on how often. Some say every 6 months while others say at every oil change. I typically like to check the brakes when I rotate the tires at approximately 5,000 miles. It all depends on the amount of driving/towing and the weight or severity of braking.

Most tow vehicle brake systems have a wear indicator that will start to squeal as the pads get low. You can also see an accumulation of brown brake pad dust on the rim. Less than ¼” of pad is typically when they should be replaced and inspect the rotor for grooves.

Most truck manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid every 3 years as condensation can build up in the system. This is not an easy procedure and I have been using this tool for several years to determine the moisture level and quality of brake fluid.

Motorhome Brakes

Motorized vehicles utilize a hydraulic fluid braking system that pushes the brake fluid through tubes to extend the brake pads to the rotors at the individual wheel positions. Larger units such as “Diesel Pushers” have air braking systems. It is important to inspect the pads for appropriate and safe thickness yearly.

Most chassis manufacturers recommend checking the braking system once a year and as you can see, not an easy DIY job! Also, most larger chassis manufacturers such as the Class A gas and diesel models do not recommend rotating tires unless there is extensive wear on one so annually is a better schedule.

These also have sealed bearings so there is no inspection or lubrication recommendation for them.

Check your chassis manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule for specific details regarding your brakes and bearings.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Jason H. ~ “Dispatch was quick, polite, & fearless. He not only changed my tire, but he also climbed under the trailer to make sure I didn’t have any damage to electrical lines from the blowout. Great experience!”