Tags
New RVer, RV tech tip, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, technology, winter camping, Winterizing
At a previous RVIA California Show in Fontana CA, I had to explain to my seminar attendees what winter actually was! It was 100+ degrees in California and most of them stared at me like a dog staring at a ceiling fan when we discussed cold weather camping. Being from the Midwest (Iowa) we only have two seasons, winter and road construction so we have become very good at winterizing our rigs. So even though most of the attendees were not going to store their rigs in sub-freezing temperatures, they might go to the mountains where temperatures could reach below freezing over 6 months out of the year.
So weather (pun intended) you are storing your rig for the winter in areas subject to freezing temperatures or might venture to such areas, it’s good to know the basics of how to protect your rig from damage due to a longer storage period and freezing temperatures.
Develop a checklist
It’s important to identify what appliances, water systems, dump tanks, and other accessories your rig has and customize a list to make sure everything is verified. Your rig may have a refrigerator ice maker, toilet shower, chassis battery, or other items that need attention before storing the unit.
Water System
This is the first step in winterizing, you need to make sure water in your freshwater tank, water lines, water pump, and dump tanks are either protected with RV antifreeze or removed completely as frozen water expands and will split water lines and rupture water heater tanks. This causes tremendous damage when the temperatures rise and the water soaks into the carpet, floor, and other parts of the rig.
RV Anti-Freeze
Non-toxic, “pink” RV anti-freeze can be used to replace all the water in your rig. It will not harm any of the plastic components and has no residual taste or toxic effects on your freshwater system.
- Start by draining your freshwater, greywater, and blackwater tanks completely.
- Next, you will need to drain the water heater by removing the drain plug from the outside at the water heater vent panel.
The water heater typically holds 6-10 gallons of water and most manufacturers have installed a water heater bypass valve to reduce the amount of RV anti-freeze needed for the system.
3. The next step is to introduce the RV anti-freeze into the water system.
- If you have a winterizing kit/valve, it’s as easy as putting the winterizing hose into a jug of RV antifreeze and letting the onboard water pump fill the lines.
- Turn on the water pump, then open the faucet or showerhead the farthest away from the pump until the pink antifreeze comes through.
- If you do not have a winterizing valve, you will need to fill the freshwater tank up with 5-6 gallons of the antifreeze and run it through the pump in the same manner.
- Continue with all the faucets in the rig, toilet, toilet sprayer, shower, and exterior shower if applicable.
Remove Water With Compressed Air
Some RVers opt to remove all the water in the system rather than use the pink RV antifreeze.
- Once again, drain all the water out of the fresh water tank, black, and grey holding tanks, and water heater.
A special air fitting can be purchased and threaded into the city water fill, or you can make a DIY tool pictured here and attach it to the city water fill.
2. Attach the air compressor and make sure you turn the pressure (psi) down to 40 psi and turn it on.
3. Then go to the farthest faucet and open it up until all the water is pushed out and only air comes out.
4. Do this to all faucets, showerheads, toilets, toilet sprayers, and outside shower.
5. Keep in mind you may have low-point drain valves that will speed the process, check your owner’s manual.
Refrigerator Ice Maker
If you have an ice maker in the refrigerator, both Norcold and Dometic recommend draining the water out.
- First, close the water supply line to the ice maker and push the ice maker arm to the off position.
- Remove the water supply line at the solenoid, usually located in the outside lower vent compartment.
- Drain all the water from the water supply line and the ice maker lines.
- Place both ends into a plastic bag and tape it shut.
- For more specific information on your type of refrigerator, consult your refrigerator owner’s manual.
LP System
Shut off the LP at the DOT cylinder valve or ASME tank on your rig rather than individual appliances.
House Batteries
The deep cycle batteries in your rig will naturally lose a charge during storage even if everything is shut off. It’s important to keep them charged or maintained so they do not sulfate or even freeze. If you do not have access to electricity, remove the house batteries and bring them into a garage or other storage facility and connect them to a battery conditioner. Another option would be to install a solar panel just large enough for conditioning such as the Zamp 20 amp maintainer.
As the battery drains, sulfur attacks the plates and coats them reducing storage capacity. A multistage charger or conditioner breaks up the sulfation and extends the life of the battery. If you do have access to electricity, keep the unit plugged in or install a conditioning charger. Just using a conventional converter in a distribution center will not condition the batteries. You will need a multi-stage charger or a larger inverter with this function.
Before storing your rig, remove all food from the refrigerator and cabinets inside and out. As stated earlier, develop a customized list for your rig which could include taking precautions for rodents, skirting underneath the rig, or using a cover.
About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club
For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.
RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.
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This week I would like to introduce a few gadgets and gizmos that may be of interest to the beginner and veteran RV travelers alike.
Many people are aware of mapping software available for today’s smartphones. Apps such as “Google Maps” are becoming commonplace for people needing to navigate both near and far. When I am commuting locally in my car, I use my smartphone app (hands-free of course) to get me where I want to go. However, when I travel in my RV, I use a standalone GPS unit. I recommend such a unit for all RVers since they have much more functionality than the smartphone versions. My GPS is suction-mounted to my dashboard, partially because many jurisdictions do not allow anything to be affixed to the windshield. Because I am such an early adopter of technology, I generally purchase a new GPS every few years, and my current Magellan is WiFi and Bluetooth connected so it can automatically update itself through my smartphone network connection. It also acts as a hands-free phone device so I don’t need a separate one. A GPS screen is much more viewable while driving than a smartphone. Brands such as Magellan also offer RV-specific versions that account for vehicle height and length and other considerations. I opted not to get one of these since I felt the 7” screen was too large and it lacked some of the advanced features I like. However, these RV versions are great for those with larger rigs who don’t require extra features. Some people prefer to use their smartphones for navigation, but I highly recommend a standalone GPS unit, but be sure to have somebody else enter information while driving.
Some months ago I mentioned my experience with my
Finally, if you enjoy staying connected on the road, I recommend purchasing a WiFi hotspot from your local carrier. Or you may choose to purchase one separately and add your own SIM card. Although a hotspot requires a little more technical knowledge, it does allow you and your family to stay connected to the internet with your computers and tablets as long as you have a data signal. There is no need to seek out public hotspots or pay money for park WiFi that is often throttled down in bandwidth and/or so crowded with connections as to make it virtually unusable. Most cell phone providers offer hotspot hardware that can be added to your plan, and it’s generally cheaper than connecting to hotspots on the road.
LP, battery, fresh, gray, and black water level monitoring, fridge temperature, interior and exterior lighting, internal climate monitoring and control, generator start/stop/status, hydraulic coach levelling, electric awning control, and even remote engine start.