Tag Archives: RV Maintenance

Slide-Out Maintenance

06 Monday May 2024

Posted by in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 18 Comments

Tags

, , , , ,

One of the challenges of writing any technical content for RVers is being able to provide information that is specific to the individual type of RV one has. Since there have been over 100 different RV companies over the years and even more models within those individual companies, it becomes difficult to provide information on every individual scenario without being too generic or too specific to one type which means the information does not pertain to a wide majority.

And so it is with slide room maintenance.  Slide rooms were introduced in travel trailers and 5th Wheels as far back as the 1970s and the “Power Slide” was invented and introduced in 1990 by Newmar.  Most other companies joined the slide-out craze a few years later with a variety of new mechanisms such as HWH, Power Gear, and others.  Since then there have been both hydraulic and electric mechanisms from companies such as Kwikee, RBW Industries, and more recently, Lippert Components Inc (LCI) which has purchased Power Gear, Kwikee, BAL Accu-Slide, and others.

Hydraulic Mechanisms

Typically a hydraulic slide-out mechanism uses a pump that that is often shared with the hydraulic leveling jacks if equipped.  It has a fluid reservoir and pumps the fluid through the lines and cylinders to move the room in and out. There is little maintenance required of the pump other than making sure the fluid level is checked and topped off with the recommended hydraulic fluid.

The actual mechanisms vary between manufacturers, HWH uses two telescoping rams with a synchronizing rod.  HWH recommends periodically cleaning the rams with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated.  One note: run the room all the way to the extended and retracted position, do not stop part-way!

Lippert Components Inc (LCI) uses an inner and outer assembly with a drive tube.  They also recommend extending and retracting the room twice a month to keep the seals lubricated and to visually inspect all components for debris, dirt buildup, and bent parts.  If you experience a squeaking noise during operation apply a coat of lightweight oil and wipe off the excess and DO NOT USE GREASE!

Several manufacturers have used the RWB Industries motor (owned by Dexter) and a proprietary gear-driven mechanism such as Newmar, National RV, and others.  Since there are so many different mechanisms used, it’s a safe bet to run the unit a couple of times a year, visually inspect the components, and verify what lubricant your manufacturer recommends to clean and lubricate the gears and arms.

Electric Mechanism

Smaller, lightweight rooms use a more inexpensive electric motor, especially models that do not have hydraulic leveling jacks that could utilize the jack motor.  Once again there are several options such as the cable slides (BAL Acu-slide), Schwintek with small motors in the sidewall and a gear-driven track, or a standard mechanism with an electric motor.

The electric motor requires no maintenance other than having 12-volt power to the unit.  The cable systems do require a periodic visual inspection to make sure the cable is not sagging, loose, or frayed.

 Cable Slideout

Cable Slideout

It is also a good idea to visually inspect all components for debris or obstructions and clean out any tracks with fluid film, a spray product available at O’Reilly Auto Parts.  This is a rust inhibitor and will not damage rubber seals.  Make sure to wipe off any excess spray.

Schwintek

Schwintek Slideout

The Schwintek slideout mechanism can develop a grinding or squeaking noise and it is recommended to spray CRC Power Lube with PTFE on the rails as well as the gibbs and motor coupler.  These can be found by pulling back the rubber seal outside at the rails.

In-Wall Slide-Out

Slide Room and Seal Maintenance

Most slide rooms or the “Box” are fairly similar, the outer wall cut out of or built from the same material as the sidewall, laminated side/top/bottom panels.  These do not require much maintenance other than making sure there is no debris on the top of the slide room when you bring it back in!  Some manufacturers have an awning over the slide room to keep sticks and other debris from falling on the top which would tear the bulb seal during retraction.  If you do not have an awning cover, you need to clean off the top every time you retract the room!

Slide Out Maintenance

LEVEL THE COACH BEFORE RETRACTING THE SLIDE!  I’m amazed at how many companies do not have this as a standard operating procedure?  RV chassis are not rock solid, they will bend and twist in an unlevel situation which causes the sidewall to twist which creates additional pressure or binding as the square box is trying to go out of an unsquared opening.

All slideout rooms have a weather strip or seal around the opening of the sidewall.  Some use a two-part rubber gasket or seal applied both inside the rig and outside.  Others use a two-sided bulb seal that is applied to the flange of the sidewall.  In either case, it’s a good idea to condition the seal with an approved product such as the ProtectAll SlideOut Rubber Seal Treatment or ProtectAll All Surface Care.

Slide-Out Lubricant

Both products have UV protection that will help keep the rubber seal from weather checking and reduce friction.

Visually inspect the underside of the slide room both inside and out.  Look for obstructions or any signs of wear and tear.  Most use a roller or glide underneath, make sure there is no damage to the mechanism or the floor.

And finally, make sure you look for items around the side of the room inside such as lawn chairs or other items that might have been placed or stored when packing up the camper.  You can not believe what a mess a boxed wine container makes when the room is extended!

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Tire Discounts
Aww Shucks!

Ken S. ~ “I’ve had to use Coach-Net Roadside twice since signing up. Your response is fast and you follow up to make sure the towing company showed up during the window quoted. It’s great!”

Effective Tips For Increasing Your RV Air Conditioner Efficiency

03 Wednesday Aug 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

With record temperatures hitting almost every part of the nation, I’m getting quite a number of questions on how to make the old Coleman and Dometic roof air conditioners cool more efficiently. I know we have featured this in the past however, there are some new products on the market as well as a little trick I found when it comes to the standard air diverters in ducted roof air conditioners.

First, Regular Maintenance

Most RV owners don’t know there is some maintenance required to keep the roof AC running efficiently. After all, they never had to do anything to their unit at home why is it any differently? Let’s take a look at how the RV roof air conditioner works and what we can do periodically to help it work as designed.

When the thermostat calls for cooler air, the motor starts in the system and draws the warm, moist interior air up through the air return in the ceiling.

 

Whether your unit is a direct flow like this older unit or it is ducted throughout the ceiling, the air return will have a thin filter to catch dust, dander, or other objects. This filter must be checked and cleaned periodically or it will block airflow and not only make the unit run less efficiently but could ruin the compressor and motor.

The warm moist air comes up through the return and is pulled through the evaporator coil at which time the coolant has been sent from the compressor and “flashes” which pulls heat out and moisture. The evaporator coil needs to be checked and cleaned periodically as well.

Here is a unit from the local campground that stopped working. The evaporator coil was caked with body powder! This unit sat directly above the bedroom area where the owner created a cloud of powder every morning! The evaporator needs to be checked and cleaned at least once a year. You can access this from the inside by pulling off the return air shroud and looking up through the hole.

This is what a good evaporator coil should look like. You can use a small portable vacuum to clean the coils however if they are really dirty, you will need to go up on the roof, take off the shroud, and then take off the evaporator housing and clean it. If you use a garden hose, cover the return air vent or you will get water inside the rig. If you get water or moisture spraying out when the air conditioner is blowing, it could be the drain holes are plugged and moisture is trapped in the drip pan. Check these periodically as well.

Next, the coolant flows back to the condenser coil where outside air is drawn into it down so it can go through the cycle again. Even with 110-degree outside heat, the air drawn in is much less than the high temperatures the coolant can reach. Make sure the condenser fins are not blocking airflow and are straight. It’s not uncommon to see flattened fins from hail or tree branches especially the older units with flat open backs. Some manufacturers are putting them at an angle or in a circle with a covered vent.

Create Inside Airflow

The roof air conditioner of your RV can only cool or “condition” air down 16 degrees from what it is pulling in. As your unit sits in the sweltering sun, inside temperatures can get 20-30 degrees hotter than the outside temperature and sometimes even more. And since hot air rises, the temperature at the inside ceiling of your rig could be 120 degrees! That means your roof air conditioner will pull it in and blowback 104 degrees into your rig. Use your roof vents, windows, and fans to move air around and pull as much warm moist air out as possible if your rig is sweltering.

Create A More Efficient Ducted Airflow

If you have a direct flow unit in which the air comes directly out of vents on the unit, there is not much you can do to improve the airflow as it is basically dumped out like a residential window air conditioner. However, if you have vents in the ceiling and air is distributed from the unit through ductwork there are some modifications you can perform.

Both ducted and non-ducted roof airs are basically the same unit with a few additional components. For ducted models, the unit is shipped with a generic baffle or thin piece of material, typically foam that the manufacturer needs to cut to length and insert into the opening. This is what diverts or directs the air coming from the fan to the ductwork rather than vents on the bottom of the unit.

Here is the diverter on a 2015 Thor Challenger we worked on recently. Notice the back of the unit, behind the diverter, has a side duct going back to the vents. Also, notice all the gaps above and on the side of the diverter! This allows air to blow back into the air return rather than going to the ductwork. Also, when the air comes off the fan it goes straight down and hits the shroud or plastic cover it creates a whirlwind effect and again, limits the airflow. All these gaps and connecting points can be covered with duct sealing tape that you can get at any home improvement store. I would even suggest getting the insulated foam tape and covering all exposed metal as this will also create condensation if left exposed.

To help even further, RV Airflow Systems has developed an aftermarket kit that can be installed to take away the whirlwind effect and increase airflow by 40%. At least that is what they claim. Next month we will be installing one on this unit and will let you know how well it works but it does make sense! You can find more information on their website here: rvairflow.com/collections/all

Lower Your Initial Amp Draw And Use Two Roof AC Units

When the thermostat calls for cooler temperatures and your unit’s motor and compressor kick in, the initial amp draw can be as high as 50 amps or more. Normally that is more than a 30 amp circuit at a campground could handle however, it is just for a short amount of time and typically does not blow the breaker at the pedestal. But it does limit you from using two roof air units on a 30 amp service if they both kick in at the same time. Plus it is a constant issue when you bring the rig home to get it ready for the next camping trip and plug it into a 20 amp garage outlet. Also, if you have a trailer and are using a portable generator rather than shoreline power, you can’t use one of the smaller units just because of the high amp draw at start-up.

Last month we installed and tested a new product called Soft Start RV that reduces the initial amp draw by almost 70%. It also eliminated the annoying “thumping” at start-up and our initial tests showed a startup amp draw of only 10 amps! It is easy to install with just 6 wires and no cutting of any existing roof air conditioner wires. If you can crimp on a few spade connections and get on the roof, you can install this in less than 1 hour. And they have excellent USA-based technical support!

Just a note: SoftStartRV or any other amp reduction product on the market will not make your roof air conditioner run more efficiently during normal operation. It is just during the initial start-up which has a high amp draw.

Check out the video and get a $30 discount through the RV Repair Club here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Adam H. ~“We had a tire blowout.  I want to thank the staff at Coach-Net for their quick response in finding an excellent tire shop with the correct size and brand very quickly. Communication with Coach-Net, the tire shop and us was excellent.  A bad day turned out pretty well as we were back on the road very quickly thanks to your help!”

6 Things That Need to Be Maintained on an RV

15 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

Owning an RV is a fantastic investment for outdoorsy people and families. If you own an RV, you can spontaneously hit the road and travel anywhere at any time! Plus, you’re more likely to go camping and enjoy the Great Outdoors if you have an RV sitting outside.

Importance of Maintenance Checks for RV

Before you embark on your next road trip, it is essential to check that your RV is safe to drive. The maintenance of any vehicle is vital to help prevent breakdowns, safety problems, or costly headaches. After all, purchasing an RV is certainly not cheap! 

To learn more about the importance of routine maintenance, check out these tips to alleviate financial stress.

How Often Should I Perform RV Maintenance? 

The frequency of maintenance for your RV will depend on how often you use it and what type of maintenance is performed. In general, some maintenance should be performed annually, while other things can be left for a quick check-up before you use your RV.  

Things to Maintain on your RV

1. Tires

The whole point of an RV is to drive it. As such, your RV’s tires are likely to be prone to wear and tear. Just like a car or any other vehicle, tire maintenance is essential for safety. Before you embark on your next RV adventure, perform a visual inspection of the tires. Look for uneven tread wear, low pressure, or visible problems. It is a good idea to invest in a tire pressure gauge in case your tire pressure gets wonky on the road. For more information on tire care, check out our previous blog here.

2. Batteries & Lights

Your RV’s batteries must be maintained in the same way as any other vehicle. Most batteries will last between three to five years but should be checked regularly, as failure and malfunctions may occur. Proper RV battery maintenance also includes appropriate storage during the cold winter months. When not using your RV, take out the battery and store it in a warm place. This will help ensure it won’t freeze or break, which can void the battery warranty.

For safety purposes, all of your RV’s lights must be working correctly, including the high beams, brake lights, fog lamps, and turn signals. This will help make sure you’re safe on the road, as well as for the protection of other drivers you share the road with.

3. Oil and Oil Filters

Oil changes on a regular schedule are essential to ensure your engine runs smoothly. Without oil changes, your engine could be damaged, leading to costly problems or repairs. Your RV’s owner manual should tell you how frequently (in mileage) the manufacturer recommends oil changes and if you should be using synthetic oil.

Looking for more ways to save money on your car and RV needs? Find the best car insurance here.

4. RV Generator

An RV generator works to provide electricity to appliances and equipment in your RV. When your RV is not used, it is important to periodically run the generator to prevent build-up on the carburetor. Experts recommend having your RV generator professionally serviced once per year. Each month, you should aim to run your generator for at least two hours at 50% load each time.

5. Sewer System

Using biodegradable RV toilet paper will help protect your sewer system in your RV. Clearing the holding tank regularly is also crucial in regular maintenance, preventing unwanted backups. 

6. Roof of your RV

Often, RV owners neglect roof maintenance. Inspecting the roof seams and seals at least twice per year is essential. As you examine your RV’s roof, you may wish to apply a sealant layer on top, preventing and protecting against water damage which can lead to expensive repairs.

RV Roadside Assistance

Worried about breaking down on the side of the road? Consider adding RV roadside assistance to help protect yourself. Coach-Net offers 24/7 RV technical and roadside assistance, tire and wheel protection, and many other amazing benefits to help you feel confident and assured on your trip.

Planning your next RV adventure but not sure where to go? Check out this ultimate RV trips guide to inspire your next adventure. Whether you’re looking for a short trip or a cross-country vacation, these top ten road trip circuits provide great inspiration.

Author: Tim Setterfield

RV Protect

Thomas Z. ~ “Kudos to Coach-Net! I served the Northeast Area of another roadside company for over 12 years including President & National VP. I recommend Coach-Net over all the others every time. Outstanding company 🔥💥”

Brake, Bearing, and Axle Maintenance

08 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

The RV season is fast approaching and for many, it’s already here so it’s time to talk about brakes, bearings, and axle maintenance. Although there is not a lot of maintenance that is required, it is important to do periodic inspections to know what is happening to the brakes and inside the hubs and there are different procedures depending on your type of RV such as a trailer vs motorized.

Trailer Brakes

Typically trailers will have electric brakes designed into the hub of the axle that is activated by a brake controller inside the tow vehicle as the brake pedal is applied. Most larger trucks will have a brake controller built into the dash and electrical system while smaller units will need one installed.

Trailer brakes should be visually checked at least once a year and spring is a good time. Most trailer brakes will have a magnet and brake pads that push against the drum.

First, inspect the brake pad to ensure there is enough material still available to stop the rig. Most axle manufacturers such as Dexter recommend replacing the shoes if they are less than 1/16th of an inch thick. At the same time, the drum surface should be inspected for scratches or grooves.

If there are slight grooves, the drums can be “turned” which is a process of grinding or cutting the metal smooth however, this can only be done to a certain thickness and needs to be done by a professional.

This whole process requires some DIY ability, tools, and a place to work on it and the average RVer will probably just take it into a service center. Check out the video at RV Repair Club to determine if you want to tackle this yourself here.

What you can do on a regular basis is check the braking resistance and manually apply the trailer brakes with the brake controller a few times a year. Start by driving with the trailer connected at a speed of 10 mph in a parking lot and apply the brake controller manually without pressing the tow vehicle brake. You should feel resistance and the higher you set the controller, the more resistance.

If you do not feel a resistance, you can check to see if there is electrical power getting to the magnet in the hub. This can be done with a multimeter or expensive break force meter but a simple test is to use a compass placed next to the hub, apply the brake of the tow vehicle as it is connected to the trailer, and watch for the compass to spin. If the magnet is energized, the compass will go wild. If not, there is no power going to the magnet.

Bearings

Over the years there have been great changes in the bearings used in trailers as well as the way we lubricate them. Dexter has a great product called EZ Lube with a grease fitting on the outside that channels grease through the shaft to the inner bearing and pushes it through to the outer bearing. This applies new grease and pushes out any contaminated or overheated grease. However, they do still recommend repacking the bearing every 12 months or 12,000 miles.

The main thing to remember is, as the wheels turn going down the road, the bearings are exposed to extreme heat and friction and they must be lubricated no matter what type you have. Periodic inspection is a must and a good practice is to use an infrared temperature sensor to check the temperature occasionally to know what is happening behind the hub.

It is not uncommon to see 20-30 degrees higher temperatures than ambient however if there is a spike you know the bearings are starting to get dry and need to have them looked at before needing to have them replaced on the side of the road!

Axle Maintenance

There is virtually no maintenance needed on a trailer axle however, there are a few important weight considerations and jacking procedures. Axles have specific weight ratings termed Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) which is the maximum weight that should be on an individual axle. It’s important to have your rig weighed to ensure you are not exceeding the GAWR or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Otherwise, the excess weight can make the axle bend and cause issues with tire wear and braking.

Most axle manufacturers do not recommend placing a jack on the axle or braces to fix or replace a tire as it could bend the axle. RV manufacturers have specified jack points on the frame for this purpose.

Tow Vehicles

Most trucks today have sealed bearings that can not be lubricated or visually inspected, but rather need to be replaced when they start to grind. Typically this is at a very high mileage. Over the past 5 trucks, I have had, I only replaced one bearing assembly with approximately 140,000 miles. You do however need to check the brakes occasionally and there are quite a few opinions on how often. Some say every 6 months while others say at every oil change. I typically like to check the brakes when I rotate the tires at approximately 5,000 miles. It all depends on the amount of driving/towing and the weight or severity of braking.

Most tow vehicle brake systems have a wear indicator that will start to squeal as the pads get low. You can also see an accumulation of brown brake pad dust on the rim. Less than ¼” of pad is typically when they should be replaced and inspect the rotor for grooves.

Most truck manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid every 3 years as condensation can build up in the system. This is not an easy procedure and I have been using this tool for several years to determine the moisture level and quality of brake fluid.

Motorhome Brakes

Motorized vehicles utilize a hydraulic fluid braking system that pushes the brake fluid through tubes to extend the brake pads to the rotors at the individual wheel positions. Larger units such as “Diesel Pushers” have air braking systems. It is important to inspect the pads for appropriate and safe thickness yearly.

Most chassis manufacturers recommend checking the braking system once a year and as you can see, not an easy DIY job! Also, most larger chassis manufacturers such as the Class A gas and diesel models do not recommend rotating tires unless there is extensive wear on one so annually is a better schedule.

These also have sealed bearings so there is no inspection or lubrication recommendation for them.

Check your chassis manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule for specific details regarding your brakes and bearings.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Jason H. ~ “Dispatch was quick, polite, & fearless. He not only changed my tire, but he also climbed under the trailer to make sure I didn’t have any damage to electrical lines from the blowout. Great experience!”

6 To-Do’s Before Taking Your Spring Break Vacation in 2022

08 Tuesday Mar 2022

Posted by in Tips & Tricks

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

In 2022, about 65 million U.S. leisure travelers are expected to take an RV vacation. While summer is a popular time for many families to travel, many choose to take advantage of spring break. Maybe you want to avoid the overcrowded summer resorts and national parks, or perhaps you’re just eager to break out of your winter hibernation. Here’s what you should do to proactively plan a successful spring break trip that you and your whole family can enjoy.

1. CONDUCT MAINTENANCE CHECKS & MAKE NECESSARY REPAIRS

Ideally, you’ll want to conduct regular maintenance checks to stay on top of short-term and long-term RV upkeep. Although they may be inconvenient on the front end, routine maintenance checks alleviate financial stress by preventing surprise breakdowns, increasing vehicle efficiency, and lowering value depreciation. Some key areas and appliances to focus on during routine maintenance include a generator, washer/dryer combo, vent fans, or roof coatings.

If you find yourself struggling to complete these projects, look to alternatives to help you finish them. For example, if you want to complete a DIY project yourself, research what supplies you’ll need, an expected timeline to finish and the total cost. Or if you don’t have the finances to readily make these improvements, speak to a trusted financial advisor to help look for alternatives to fund these projects.  

2. PREPARE FOR THE UNEXPECTED

Even if you think your spring break destination will be filled with warm weather and sunny skies, spring travel can quickly be derailed with changing forecasts and road conditions. Even though you may not encounter extreme conditions, you may confront unexpected storm watches or storm warnings. To be safe, pack an RV emergency kit and brief everyone on the items included, how to use them and when to use them. If you have small children, you can even practice simulations before the trip so they feel comfortable and confident.

Another strategy to be prepared is to research and download the best weather apps for your needs. Apps range from all-service weather apps to weather apps that give hyper-local forecasts. Before leaving, be sure you’re clear about any upgrades or features of these apps that might have additional fees.

3. COORDINATE LEGS OF YOUR TRIP WITH LOVED ONES

Before taking off on your spring break trip, use this as an opportunity to see any family or friends that you haven’t been able to. Especially with the ongoing COVID-19 lockdowns and restrictions, holidays, vacations, and trips with loved ones have been especially difficult. However, now is a great time to revisit old traditions and establish new ones.

Plan a day trip with your extended family or friends at a location that’s convenient for everyone to get to. Or, check something off of everyone’s bucket lists and visit a national or state park that no one has been to yet. If you’re struggling to come up with ideas, gain inspiration from travel Instagram or TikTok accounts or social media influencers.

4. PACK SPRINGTIME HEALTH NECESSITIES

After a long winter season, it’s important to prepare for a change in the conditions. After rain, snow or chilly temperatures, you might forget the seasonal allergies that you or your family experience. Be sure to pack any springtime allergy medications or remedies that you’ve found work best such as eye drops, nasal sprays or inhalers. When packing these supplies in your RV, be sure to keep items like over-the-counter or prescription medicines in safe, locked areas that children cannot get ahold of.

It’s also important to know the springtime climate and conditions of the area you’re going to. While seasonal allergies might not affect you at home until later in the spring, certain areas are known for early or high pollen counts. A great way to educate yourself on your destination is by using an online allergy map. By adding the zip code of your destination to the interactive map, you can see yesterday, today’s and tomorrow’s allergy report, a 5-day outlook and the top allergens that are currently in the area.

5. PLAN SURPRISES TO KEEP KIDS ENGAGED THE WHOLE TRIP

Leading up to the trip, it’s important to allow your kids to be involved in the planning, preparation and decision making. To make your spring break more kid-friendly, ask them what they want to do during rest breaks, what they want to pack for clothes or what on-road entertainment they want to bring. This is not only a great way to keep them engaged and excited about the trip, but it allows them to take the initiative and responsibility to pack any additional items or accessories they might need like chargers or headphones.

Although, you might find that during the trip your kids are becoming bored or impatient, especially towards the end. To keep everyone in a good mood, find some time before the trip to plan little surprises without breaking the bank. A great example of how to do this is with DIY busy bags that you can make with inexpensive items from the drug store.

6. FIND ALTERNATIVE WAYS TO CAPTURE TRIP MEMORIES

Prior to the big departure day, take time to talk with your family about how you all plan to remember the trip. Rather than relying on your smartphone camera the whole time, talk about creative ways that you can document the trip for years to come. If you like to write or draw, buy journals for every family member to use during breakfast or by the campfire.

If your children like collecting material objects like shells or rocks, ask them to pick special items up and keep them in a safe place until the trip is over. When you get home, you can use these materials to create a vacation or memory keeping DIY craft. With options from flower press books to souvenir jars, this is a great way to let your kids’ creativity shine.

By starting preparations early, you can give yourself peace of mind that everything will be taken care of and thought through before day one of your spring break vacation. Remember though, roadblocks and unexpected turns are bound to happen. And when they do, try to find a sense of adventure in them.

RV Protect

Craig S. FL ~ “I am extremely pleased with the service I received. Your representative kept in constant contact with me to make sure everything was going as planned. I never felt like I was in this by myself. Thank you!!!!”

De-Winterizing Your Rig

02 Wednesday Mar 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

, , , ,

RV Shows are back on this spring and attendance is record-breaking! I conduct seminars at RV shows around the country and what I have experienced is the excitement of RVers of all types wanting to get out and use their rigs. Some are looking to buy for the first time while others are seasoned veterans and itching to pull the covers off their sleeping beauties!

There have been several articles written about the steps to bring your RV out of storage and de-winterizing them. However, it is always a good idea to refresh your memory to make sure you look at all aspects of the rig and a few new tips on some of the new materials and appliances being used in RVs today.

Let’s start with the 120-volt/LP water heater. Hopefully, you drained all the water out last fall before putting it to bed. If so, you must fill the tank with water before turning the unit on, or it will burn out the heating element and ruin the water heater. BUT…before you fill it with water, now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning. If you look at the drain plug on your water heater, you will see it is not at the very bottom of the tank, rather an inch or more up the side which means you probably did not get all the water out. The small amount of water will not do any damage as it freezes, however, it is probably getting very “murky” and full of lime and calcium. Most owners do not realize this and every year the sediment gets thicker and thicker until it gets so thick it insulates the water from the heating element and does not run efficiently. It is a good idea to flush out all the sediment with a flush tool such as this one available on Amazon here.

Check All Sealants And Condition The Roof

The drastic temperature changes throughout the winter and spring can be rough on sealants and materials that are a vital part of keeping moisture out of your rig. Your roof material is most likely either a rubber component or fiberglass. Rubber material such as EPDM and TPO needs to be cleaned periodically and conditioned. Cleaning can be done with mild dish soap such as Dawn (Blue) and water with a soft bristle brush or broom. I would not recommend a pressure washer and you can literally peel the membrane away from sealants or openings. Conditioning depends on the type of material however DiCor has conditioners that are recommended by most membrane manufacturers. Alpha Systems recommends just cleaning with Murphy Soap and the new PVC-type membranes just recommend cleaning and no conditioning.

It is also important to visually inspect all sealants from top to bottom. Most manufacturers use a self-leveling sealant at the roof to front cap joint, sidewall to the roof, and around anything mounted to the roof. As the temperature changes, the materials expand and contract which means the sealants will do the same. If they get brittle due to exposure to the sun and elements, they will crack and must either have additional sealant added or remove the old sealant and reseal. Keep in mind you must use a sealant that is designed for your type of roof material or hard-front fiberglass cap! Standard residential silicone typically will not adhere to this type of material and will not seal. Check with your manufacturer or Dicor to get the correct product.

Another seal that is often overlooked is the rubber bulb and flap seal of slide rooms. The longer this is exposed to the sun and elements, the dryer the material gets and less chance of sealing.

There are several products that claim to be slide seal lubricants, however, I like 303 Protectant or ProtectAll All-purpose conditioners as they have UV protection built-in and actually condition the rubber material.

While you are conditioning the seals, inspect the top to make sure the seal has not been damaged by retracting the room with debris on the top? And check underneath to make sure the rollers are in good working order.

Sometimes the room can get out of alignment and not seal properly. Check the inside to make sure no moisture was able to penetrate at the corners which would lead to a soft floor and eventual expensive repairs.

A few years ago one of our local owners uncovered his rig for the spring, plugged it in, went inside to turn on the roof AC and it started “snowing”! A squirrel had worked its way under the cover and made a nest in the white insulation of the fan housing. After chewing most of the beaded insulation, it blew through the ductwork and created quite a mess. We were able to replace the insulation but it took a long time to clean out all the ductwork. What a mess, so make sure you inspect everything for “critters”. This is the unit before we uncovered the damage.

Tires

Tires are the most vulnerable component on an RV and typically the most neglected. It’s not uncommon for tires to lose pressure when just sitting and especially sitting for several months without being checked. Check the pressure and the sidewall for weather checking to help reduce tire failure further down the road. Spring is also a good time to have the bearings repacked and brakes checked on trailers. Most axle manufacturers recommend once a year. Even bearings with easy grease applications recommend inspection and repacking every year. Check with your axle manufacturer which is typically Dexter or Lippert.

LP System

I like to check the LP system in the spring when I bring my unit out of storage. This can be done with a water column test which is a little technical or with a simple tool available on Amazon. I use this tester at all the appliances to verify there are no leaks. You can also use an LP leak test solution but it takes much longer to test every connection. Do not use soap and water as the soap can damage components in the connections.

When opening the LP container valve, do it slowly as there is an excess flow valve that will shut down the flow if opened rapidly. This can take several minutes to reset as the backflow needs to bring the pressure down.

Another maintenance item I perform during de-winterization is the cleaning and inspecting the back of the absorption refrigerator. Remove the exterior vent and you will see the LP supply line, spark ignitor, burner tube, and cooling unit. Use an air compressor and blow off all the dust and clean the soot that forms in the burner assembly and flue. Make sure you have safety glasses as this can be a mess!

If your rig has a refrigerator vent on the roof, remove the cap and make sure the rectangular vent with a screen covering it is clean so it does not restrict the hot air from venting out.

Then I use a dollar bill and place it between the refrigerator door and cabinet, close the door and see what type of resistance I get. If the dollar pulls out easily, your door is not getting a good seal and warm moist air can get inside and cause excessive frosting or insufficient cooling. It’s not uncommon for the door to settle while banging it down the road and might need to be adjusted or shimmed.

Make a checklist

Just like your pre-departure checklist, it is a good idea to customize one for your rig to bring it out in the spring and not leave anything to memory. Conducting a thorough inspection and proper maintenance can help reduce failures and deterioration of materials down the road.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Peter B. ~ “Took my information and connected me to a technician within 5 minutes. Very reassuring to have the ability to get quick answers to technical questions.” 

How Routine Maintenance Checks Help Alleviate Financial Stress

08 Tuesday Feb 2022

Posted by in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

, , , ,

It should be a given, right? 

Whether you’re buying your first RV or owning one for years, it’s a well-known fact that motorhomes, or any vehicle for that matter, require maintenance.

Unfortunately, the basic checks that stop an RV from breaking down on you during your family road trip are often overlooked. 

It’s surprising how such little effort put into maintenance can affect the vehicle long term. That’s not to mention what it can do to your bank balance. 

Let’s jump in and take a look at what some of these basic checks are and why they can alleviate financial stress… 

What Should a Routine Maintenance Check Include For An RV? 

These simple but crucial checks will help your motor home run smoothly and be less likely to leave you stranded roadside. 

Tires 

The first thing you should always check is your tires. Specifically, check the air pressure. 

Make sure all tires are full to the required air pressure (PSI). This can easily be done at most gas stations and will usually only cost a few cents. 

This seems obvious, but it’s surprising how often owners don’t do this. Driving an RV with low air pressure can not only damage the wheel itself but also ruin the whole axle of the vehicle. 

Yep, skipping this super basic check can have massive implications… 

Electrical 

When you’re on a big trip with your family, you’re going to want to check the electrics and make sure they’re working properly. 

The last thing you want is to be left unable to charge any devices or use appliances—especially the kid’s iPads—on those longer drives. 

Water and Waste 

Water and waste are two essentials, especially over long distances and camping with little to no facilities. 

If you’re using a self-contained vehicle, check all your water tanks are full and all the necessary pumps work. 

The same goes for your waste tank. Check the tank itself is all in order and that the pipes/system works well. 

The very last thing you want is for a small crack or disconnected pipe to leak. You don’t need me to tell you why that would be bad… 

Vehicle Fluids 

Like humans, vehicles need fluids to run smoothly. 

Check the water level of your rig and ensure there’s enough coolant. There’s nothing worse than an overheated RV in the middle of nowhere just because you forgot to top up the water and add coolant. 

Lights 

Another essential. For long drives (particularly at night) you’re going to want strong lights that work well. It’s not just your headlights that are going to help keep you and other road users safe, either. It’s your signaling lights and brake lights, too.

As well as this, working reversing lights will be massively handy if you’re pulling up to a back-in-site in pitch black dark. 

How Routine Checks Alleviate Financial Stress 

Now that we know some of the basic checks you need, let’s see why these are so important and how performing them can alleviate vehicle-related financial stress. 

Safety (For You and Others) 

When it comes to checking your RV’s all in working order, it’s not just about how safe your RV is and how much easier your trip will be. 

It’s other road users too! 

Having working lights, indicators, and, generally, a vehicle that works well makes the road safer for everyone. 

A vehicle that hasn’t been checked can not only be costly to repair, but also be dangerous to other road users. 

Surprise Breakdowns 

There’s nothing worse, right? 

You’re heading down the highway, music on, on the way to your annual family camping trip, only for the engine to start making strange noises. All of a sudden, you’ve gone from puttering down the road to chugging into the pullout unable to go any further. 

The initial worry of missing your family trip is then overtaken by worrying how much this breakdown is going to cost you! 

Taking proper care of your vehicle helps it run smoothly, efficiently and these sorts of situations are way less likely to happen. 

Vehicle Efficiency 

When you have clean oil, water topped up, correct coolant levels and a clean air filter, your rig runs more efficiently. 

It doesn’t matter if you’re driving a class A, B or C… having everything right (especially fluids) allows the engine to run as efficiently as possible. 

This can save you a ton of cash in the long run. Although savings might not be visible initially, this well-oiled, fluid-filled vehicle will squeeze in a lot more mileage for every time you fill the gas.

You can check your vehicle’s fuel efficiency by using one of the best OBD2 scanners. A small handheld device that checks your vehicle’s performance. 

Lower Value Depreciation  

If you don’t look after your RV, it goes without saying it will eventually lose value. 

All the wear and tear on a vehicle (and engine) that hasn’t been looked after and has been running inefficiently for years at a time is going to drastically lower its value if you were to sell it later. 

With vehicles already having the highest rates of value depreciation of pretty much anything you can buy in 2022, this can equate to thousands of dollars lost. 

So, there we go. 

Now you know exactly what you should be checking on your RV, this can either be regularly (perhaps twice or three times annually) and definitely before any lengthy trip. 

It’s also very clear how disregarding such basic and easy to perform checks can have a major effect on your finances. 

We hope this post will help to keep your RV running smoothly and alleviate any potential costs. 

Take the time to perform checks and if you want to take things seriously, choose an OBD2 scanner as well. 

Happy RV’ing.

Author: Tim Setterfield

M.N., Porter, TX ~ “I was very impressed that the service provider driver called me on my cell phone to let me know when he would arrive.  Very courteous and efficient.”

House Batteries-Storage, Maintenance, and New Technology

06 Wednesday Oct 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

, , , ,

We have written several articles about deep cycle batteries commonly called house batteries and produced numerous videos over the years so you might be saying, “Ok, we get it already!” However, in the last couple of years, there have been several new battery companies that came into the market, new technology with not only the standard lead-acid and AGM but also Lithium-Ion models as well.

Buying a Good Battery

When I first started in the industry in 1983 at Winnebago we used Goodyear Die Hard batteries and the warranty was through Sears stores across the nation. Back then there were thousands of stores, today I think the last one finally closed somewhere in the Midwest. The battery was good, the issue was for a warranty on the battery you had to take it out of your rig and bring it into a store! A lot has changed since then and there have been dozens of battery manufacturers that have come and gone and the old saying; “You get what you pay for” is still true today.

Batteries simply store energy that is used by the RV and replaced by a refilling or charging system. An acid solution reacts with the lead plates They all have lead plates in cells with acid covering them. The difference comes in the materials used inside the cells. Materials such as thicker positive plates, superior paste, better and fewer welds, and superior plate holders. Less expensive batteries that are offered by discount stores just do not last.

Typically Marine batteries are a hybrid with thinner cells and if they are rated with Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) they are designed for starting and may not be a true deep cycle design.

Lead Acid Gets A Bad Wrap

Even the good lead acid batteries can go bad prematurely if they are not properly maintained. As the energy is drained and recharged, sulfur coats the plates and needs to be removed during the first stage of recharging. A typical RV converter simply comes on at 13.6 volts until the battery is charged to 12.6 volts and then stays at 13.2 volts at which rate a fully charged battery will not accept a charge. To break up sulphation in a lead-acid battery, the initial charge commonly referred to as “bulk” charge needs to be approximately 14.6 volts. This would require a multi-stage charger such as the Progressive Dynamics “Charge Wizard” technology, a solar panel system with a charge controller, or an aftermarket product such as Battery Minder. Improper charging causes the sulfur level to get thicker and reduces storage capacity. Batteries look like they are fully charged at 12.6 volts but deplete fast due to sulphation.

Another issue with lead-acid is gassing and liquid depletion. As the battery is being recharged it create gassing which is hydrogen and oxygen and the liquid depletes. Therefore it is important to inspect the fluid level periodically and add distilled or deionized water to cover the plates. Low fluid levels expose the plates and cause them to deteriorate prematurely.

Absorbed Glass Mat-AGM

At my seminars, I’ve talked with many RVers that got fed up with their lead-acid batteries and went to AGM batteries because they provide more power and are less maintenance. This is half right, there is less maintenance as they are sealed and do not have gas, and are less prone to sulfation. They do not provide more power initially however, as they are less prone to sulfation, they provide the rated power over the years as the sulfated lead acids will start to underperform as discussed earlier.

Storage

All batteries will lose a charge during long periods of inactivity such as storage. Batteries should be recharged when they show under 70% capacity. And they need to be kept from freezing. If you do not have access to 120-volt power to charge or a solar panel, it is recommended to remove the batteries and maintain them store them properly.

Another option is using a solar panel with charge controller or Battery Minder which not only keeps the battery from freezing and properly maintained. This is good for lead acid, gel, and AGM. Not for use with Lithium Ion. Lithium-Ion batteries should be stored at 50 degree temperature and at 40-50% capacity.

Lithium Ion

In the past, Lithium Ion batteries were very expensive and did not perform well in cold weather. Technology has changed and more companies have developed Lithium Ion batteries that are getting closer to AGM batteries. Granted they are still about twice as much initially, however they can be drained down to almost 0% capacity vs 50% of other batteries so you can get by with fewer overall batteries. Also, they last longer so if you plan to keep your rig for a long time and do a lot of dry camping, the pay for themselves. Plus with proper charging,  they are not affected by cold weather as older versions.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Richard H. ~ “Leonard was very helpful and gave me his thoughts on my issue , which turned out to be correct. He found a service provider nearby and set up a visit for me and called me back the next day as the day of my call was a holiday.” 

Generator Care And Maintenance

05 Wednesday May 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

The famous line from Star Trek’s “Scotty” while in the engine room was: “Captain, we need more dilithiam crystals!”  In other words, more power and it seems like that’s the case with today’s RVers as we are all trying to get the most out of every appliance we can get our hands on!

Ok, maybe not everyone, however a generator is an important component to not only help run appliances, but also charge the house batteries when dry camping or boondocking.  For the most part, generators require a limited amount of maintenance, however there are some things you need to know to make sure they provide the power you need and run as long as you need them to.  In this article we will cover permanently mounted or onboard generators.

Types of generators and their maintenance requirements:

Gasoline

Typically in a motorized RV, these generators are permanently mounted with rubberized motor mounts to the frame, although some are used in Toy Haulers as the fuel for these needs to be supplied by an onboard fuel source such as the gasoline tank.

Sizes can range from smaller 2000 watt versions, that have limited power, to the large 7000 watt version shown here that has enough power to make “Scotty” happy!

Gasoline fuel generators can use regular unleaded or an Ethanol Blend not to exceed 10% Ethanol.  The key is to use fresh gas, nothing older than 30 days, which is why it’s a good idea to run the tank low before refilling prior to storage. 

Larger generators (5000 watts and higher) have two circuit breakers on the generator itself, one that supplies 30 amp power to the distribution center, and a 20 amp breaker that is connected directly to the bedroom air conditioner if applicable. This allows you to run both roof airs with the front supplied by the distribution center and the back by the direct line on the generator.

Recommended maintenance includes changing oil as well as the oil and air filters.

Whether putting your RV to bed for a long while, or just getting it ready for an extended siesta, it’s important to take a little time preparing your generator for an extended period of rest by following these steps:

Step One – Fuel Recommendations

The first step is to make sure your fuel tank is full before letting it sit for anything longer than 30 days.  A partially full fuel tank allows condensation to form inside the tank which not only adds water to the mix, but can also lead to rust forming and causing all kinds of issues.  Most seasoned RVers calculate their storage/winterizing schedule and let the fuel tank get low prior to storage so they can fill it with the proper fresh fuel before storing. 

Step Two – Stabilize The Fuel Supply

Any fuel will deteriorate as it sits in an engine or fuel tank for a period of time, usually as quick as 30 days.  Gasoline will start to varnish producing a gummy residue that clogs the carburetor, fuel filter, and fuel pump and affects performance.  Unlike engine performance or fuel economy, the octane level or grade of fuel has little effect on the time factor of this fuel deterioration.  Diesel fuel does not deteriorate and produce varnish like gasoline, however it can suffer biological growth (algae) and gel in cold weather which will also affect engine performance. 

It is recommended to use a quality fuel preservative and stabilizer with either diesel or gasoline models.  There are several brands on the market with most of the popular diesel stabilizers available at the major truck stops.  Onan recommends OnaFresh fuel preservative and stabilizer. 

Keep in mind, once a fuel starts to deteriorate and varnish is present in the generator, a preservative and stabilizer will not restore the fuel.  At this point you will need to try a fuel system cleaner or disassemble the generator components and clean/remove the contaminants. 

Step Three – Run The Unit

Run the unit under load for at least 30 minutes.  The Onan owner’s manual recommends 30 minutes plus 2 minutes for each foot of fuel line to ensure the stabilizer makes it way through all the lines and engine components.  Other Onan service documents recommend running for 1-2 hours.  Running the unit for 1 hour should be sufficient and make sure you have something on the inside that will provide a load to the generator like the roof air units or plugging in an appliance like a space heater.

Step Four – Change The Oil And Filter

After running the unit, it’s recommended to change the oil and filter prior to storage.  This prevents acids from accumulating which could corrode bearings inside the engine.  It’s important to use the manufacturers original parts for oil filters and recommended oil.  Generic or replacement parts commonly referred to as “will-fit” parts are built for cost, not quality.  These parts often times have inferior materials used for filtering, sealing, and longevity which could cause expensive failures. 

Onan has blended their own specific oil branded as OnaMax, however they do allow other brands under warranty as long as they meet the following specifications:

– Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality available. Look for the “Energy Conserving” designation to optimize fuel economy.

Check your owner’s manual for weight or viscosity according to your genset and temperatures.

Step Five– Gasoline Engine Fogging

If you own a gasoline fueled RV generator it’s recommended to remove the spark plug and spray Onan’s OnaGard fogging spray to reduce rust and condensation in the cylinder.

Step Six – Check Connections

Make sure all cables, wires, and other connections are tight and protected.  You may need to clean battery cable connections and lubricate linkage points.

Step Seven – Disconnect The Battery

It’s a good idea to disconnect the ground terminal to the generator to eliminate any battery drain or accidental surge back from the house system if the unit is plugged in for storage.

Onan also recommends running the generator once a month for at least 30 minutes under 50% load to reduce the gasoline deterioration and varnish and keep the seals softened in the diesel and LP units.  In some situations this is not possible, so it’s important to take the necessary steps to clean, protect, and stabilize the fuel source to make sure your generator performs well for years to come.

Liquid Propane/LP

Propane fueled generators are not as common as gas or diesel since LP is a very precious commodity when dry camping or boondocking which is when you need a generator!  Some diesel pusher owners choose the LP genset as it originally ran quieter and did not have the smell of the diesel fumes; however, for the most part this has not been a factor with the newer diesel genset models.  Some trailer owners use this model as they do not have a gas tank other than the tow vehicle which they can not tap into and want a permanently mounted unit.

Propane generators do require a similar oil and filter change maintenance schedule and Onan has the following recommendation for the proper fuel:

— Use clean, HD-5 grade liquid propane in a mixture of at least 90% propane. Propane fuels other than HD-5 can contain more than 2.5 percent butane which can result in poor fuel vaporization and poor engine starting in outside temperatures below 32°F.

Propane generators are not as subject to the varnish issue that gasoline models are, however it is a good idea to run the generator periodically to lubricate the seals and gaskets.  Onan recommends running it for 30 minutes 2-3 times yearly.

Diesel Generator

The diesel generator has come a long way since I took to the road training dealers back in the mid 1990’s. OK I admit, most things have come a long way since that time!  Back then there were only 4 Rocky films and only 3 Star Wars films!

This unit is fueled by the chassis fuel tank just like the gas version and has the same maintenance schedule as the gas and propane with just a couple of additional items to be aware of.

Ensure the fuel selected for use has a minimum Cetane number of 45. No. 2-D or No.2-DLS diesel fuel gives the best economy and performance under most operating conditions. Use No. 1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 32°F and during long periods of light engine load. Use low sulfur or ultra low sulfur content fuel having a cloud point of at least 10°F below the lowest expected fuel temperature. Cloud point is the temperature at which wax crystals begin to form in diesel fuel.

Onan does have some recommendations for fuel type:

— Use any of the following ASTM certified fuels for your quiet diesel:

  • ASTM-No.2-D (ambient temperature greater than 23°F) (No. 2 Diesel)
  • or ASTM-1-D (No. 1 Diesel)
  • No.2-DLS (ambient temperature greater than 23°F)
  • No.1-D (ambient temperature less than 23°F)
  • No.1-DLS (ambient temperature less than 23°F)
  • B5 Biodiesel(ambient temperature greater than 50°F)

B20 Biodiesel

− The use of B20 biodiesel requires the generator to have an additional fuel/water separator. Long-term storage of biodiesel fuels can result in oxidation and/or mold growth. Consult your vehicle manufacturer and your generator owner’s manual to see if this option is applicable to your generator.

– Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: CF, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 or CJ-4 where CJ-4 is currently the highest quality available. The use of synthetic oil is not recommended during the warranty period. The use of oil meeting API performance category CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 or CI-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.5% or CJ-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.0015% is not recommended as oil service is negatively impacted.

Check your generator owner’s manual for recommended weight/viscosity for temperatures.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Joe B. ~ “First time needing any services with Coach-Net and I was impressed. Joshua was outstanding. He communicated clearly and was easy to understand. Also, he was compassionate, helpful, efficient, and reliable. I was taken care of in a timely manner and felt like someone had by best interest at heart in a very stressful situation. Thank you!” 

Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , , ,

Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

The sidewall of your RV can take a beating from the weather elements such as wind, rain, hail, and especially the sun beating down on it.  This affects the outer skin which is typically a fiberglass panel, decals, sealants, and your tires.

Sidewalls

Let’s start with the sidewall’s outer skin.  There have been several materials used over the years including aluminum, steel, and the most popular being fiberglass.  Crane Composites is the leader in fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) and introduced the product to the RV industry over 30 years ago.  Most RVers have heard of their signature product, Filon but they also have several other products used in the RV industry.

These products range from the entry-level “ribbed” fiberglass commonly known as “mesa” sidewall to the high gloss material used on luxury RVs.  The basic composition of an FRP sidewall is the base material consisting of liquid plastic and mixed with strands of fiberglass to form a sheet or coil.  These can be colored and are typically available in white and various degrees of beige.  The outer layer gets a gel coat or clear finish which creates a shine.  Economy units have a very thin layer while more expensive units have thicker layers creating more of a shine or automotive finish.

The challenge is keeping the color from fading which has been a huge issue due to UV degradation.  Here is an example of a unit that sat in the California sun unprotected and not maintained.

Sidewall Discoloration

It’s hard to see the discoloration of the sidewall but it has turned to an almost pink hue and the decals show the effects of the exposure.  To minimize this, it’s important to clean the sidewall with a mild detergent such as Dawn dish soap and cover the unit whenever it is not in use.

According to Crane Composites the company that makes Filon, they recommend washing the material monthly with a mild detergent and microfiber rag and doing additional maintenance every 6 months which includes waxing the material.  The gel coat material will change color when exposed to sunlight, heat, and moist air therefore it is important to do the maintenance and reposition the rig frequently to limit full-time exposure to one side.  Crane suggests using Meguiar’s #56 boat and RV Pure Wax which has UV protection built-in.  More information on this procedure can be found on their website here:

If your sidewall already has some discoloration, they suggest Meguiar’s #49 Heavy-Duty Oxidation Remover and a mechanical buffer, then a coat of wax or Mirka Polar Shine 35.  I have also found that Bar Keepers Friend can be used to buff out the discoloration as well.

Decals

Vinyl graphics and decals come in an economical “Calendar” style or more premium Cast type.  The Calendar version has a 2-3 year life cycle while the Cast is 5-7 but both can be extended with periodic care and maintenance.  Most of the vinyl graphics I have researched were produced by Sharpline and Valley Screen and they both recommend washing with a mild detergent that has a PH between 3-11 and has no strong solvents.  Use a microfiber cloth and do not wash cold material with cold water.  Water should be over 70 degrees as cold water can shock the material and the adhesive will delaminate from the vinyl.  If using a pressure washer, keep the tip at least 12 inches from the material and the pressure at or below 1200 psi.  They do not recommend any type of wax as it can keep the vinyl from “breathing” and cause premature fading and cracking.

Tires

It has been said many times that tires are the most valuable component of an RV but also the most neglected.  There are far too many campground stories about tire failure on the road and many have suggested it’s not if…but when a tire will fail.  However, proper maintenance and education of weight and tire pressure will greatly reduce this.

Weighing Your RV

It is important to weigh your rig to determine the total weight does not exceed the GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your rig, the axle weight does not exceed the GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating, and find individual wheel position weights as well.  This can only be done with portable scales and you can find weighing teams through the RV Safety and Education Foundation here: www.rvsafety.com

Tire pressure should be checked every time you hit the road with a certified tire pressure gauge and not simply a glance.  You cannot tell the difference between a properly inflated tire and one that has 10 psi less.  AND…10 psi less than recommended pressure reduces weight carrying capacity by 25%!

Cover your tires when not in use.  Sun and heat can deteriorate the sidewalls and create weather checking which can also lead to tire failure.  Clean the tire with a mild detergent and do not use tire shine!  Check your sidewall often for signs of weather checking.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Micheal S. ~ “Leonard was understanding, thorough, and helped us troubleshoot during the Texas ice storm. We were up and running in less than 15 minutes!”