Tag Archives: RV electrical

Converters and Inverters – What Is The Difference When It Comes To Battery Charging?

04 Wednesday Jan 2023

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There have been several inquiries from owners, old and new, about converters and inverters, and it’s clear that there is some confusion about their capabilities and functions. This is completely understandable, as there are various types of converters and an even greater number of inverters! So, let’s dive in!

Converter

A converter is basically a battery charger that receives 120-volt AC power from either a campground source or a generator and turns it into 12-volt DC power to charge the house battery or batteries. The most basic converter is located in a distribution center alongside the 120-volt circuit breakers and is called an all-in-one unit similar to this style.

The converter/charger is located behind the vents or grills on the right side and has a dedicated circuit breaker which is usually the one closest to the converter.

These are a less expensive model, however, they can be noisy and produce heat so some manufacturers are moving to a standalone model and putting it under the bed or inside cabinetry. There is still a distribution center with circuit breakers and 12-volt automotive-style fuses, but the converter/charger is hidden.

Above is a photo of a WFCO installed under the bed behind a false wall. They can be difficult to find and even more difficult to remove and install the new converter when looking to install lithium batteries!

A typical converter is connected to the house batteries and senses the charge. When the batteries are low, (approximately 50% drained) the converter will provide a charge of approximately 13.6-volts until the batteries reach 12.6-volts which is fully charged. Then the converter will drop to a float charge of 13.2-volts in order to avoid overcharging the battery/batteries.

The disadvantage is that it does not provide proper charging and maintenance. Sulfur will coat the lead plates in lead acid and AGM battery as it drains and only a high voltage charge known as the bulk charge or desulfation charge will break up the coating. Otherwise, it just gets thicker with each draw and eventually greatly reduces the battery’s ability to store power. It can also take 8 hours or longer to charge.

Progressive Dynamics offers a charger that provides 13.8-volts for 8 hours, which creates some desulfation, and the PD9200 with Charge Wizard also does a nice job.

A multi-stage charger will provide a bulk charge at 14.6-16-volts that will break up the sulfation and then moves to an equalizing charge to equalize each cell, followed by a float charge.

NOTE: You do not want to use this type of charger with Lithium Batteries as they require only a 14.6-volt charge and the bulk stage could ruin them!

There is very little maintenance required with either the all-in-one version or the standalone other than to monitor the condition of your lead acid battery/batteries. It is also recommended to periodically check all wiring connections for corrosion and tight fitting. If a converter goes bad it will either lose its ability to charge or not come out of the initial higher charge of 13.6-13.8 volts overcharging the batteries. Be sure to check the fluid level of the battery and in my opinion, it is a good idea to get a good battery monitor other than the three-light versions on the monitor panel.

The monitor shown below is a Go Power! product and is the version we installed in our Thor.

Inverter/Charger

An inverter is designed to take 12-volt DC power from the house battery bank and change or invert it to 120-volt AC power for appliances and outlets. Smaller inverters were first used with the entertainment centers to power just the TV and VCR and were about 100 watts. This was designed to power the TV while boondocking or dry camping temporarily and did not power anything else in the rig.

As more power was needed for other outlets and appliances such as residential refrigerators, larger inverters came along such as the Freedom 2000 which also had a battery charger incorporated.

This type of inverter would not only take 12-volt power from a larger battery bank and provide pure sine wave 120-volt power to several outlets and the residential refrigerator but would also provide a multi-stage charge to the house batteries.

Several companies have made their way into the market with inverters/chargers as low as 1000-watt models. The key in deciding which is right for you is to look at what wattage requirements you need for your rig, the battery bank you have, and the amp rating of the charger.

Companies with a reliable track record according to the RV manufacturers and service centers that I have worked with are Go Power, Xantrex, Victron which Keystone uses, and Renogy.

As with a converter, there is very little maintenance required for inverters other than battery maintenance and periodic checking of connections for corrosion.

Which Do I Need, A Converter Or An Inverter/Charger?


Usually, you don’t have a choice as the rig comes from the factory with a distribution center that has a converter/charger incorporated. This is either in the distribution center, standalone, or an inverter with a charging option.

The time to decide is when the converter fails or you want to upgrade your battery capacity. The determining factor is the amount of time you will be boondocking or dry camping. An inverter is only needed if you are not going to be plugged into a campground source and need to run some 120-volt appliances which would need an inverter or generator power.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ryan C. ~ “Coach-Net was exceptional and did all the leg work to get my tow. They took care of the billing, and all I had to do was wait for the tow truck. No paperwork on site and no hassle whatsoever!”

120-volt Power – Protecting Yourself At The Campground

07 Wednesday Jul 2021

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As millions of people hit the road this summer for a long awaited getaway in their RV, campgrounds across America will be packed with people.  And that means an increase demand for electrical power as nobody can “rough it” anymore with a single air conditioning unit and only one TV!  No we have to have both roof airs going, 3 or more TVs, the pod coffee maker, microwave, and everything else.  Electrical system and pedestals commonly referred to as shoreline power will be taxed to the max.  So it’s important to understand your electrical system, learn how to check the pedestal for proper polarity and voltage, and know your limitations.

Let’s start with a basic understanding of how electricity gets to your rig. 120-volt power can be obtained from three different sources. The campground pedestal through your power cord, a generator either onboard or portable through a power cord, or from the house batteries which provide 12-volt DC power to an inverter that can provide 120-volt power to a select few items. 

Since we are talking safety at the campground, let’s concentrate on the pedestal and the power cord.  The cord can be permanently mounted inside the service compartment, or a twist plug like the unit in the graphic.  Either way, the 120-volt power goes to the distribution center located inside the coach.

Inside the distribution center you will find a main circuit breaker that shuts off all power, and individual circuit breakers for the various appliances and wall outlets.  In most RVs you will also find a set of automotive fuses for the 12-volt operations although some manufacturers have design a separate set of push button type fuses located in another compartment. 

Power from these circuit breakers is routed through wiring known as Romex to the appliances inside cabinets and sometimes even embedded in the walls and ceiling during manufacturing.  That is why it’s important to check for wiring before adding anything to your rig that might require installing a screw into the wall or ceiling!

Back to the pedestal.  Most campgrounds offer a 15 amp, 30 amp, and sometimes 50 amp connection.

These all have a hot, neutral, and ground wire and can only be plugged in one way.  The 50 amp connection has two hot wires supplying the distribution center so it can handle a larger load.  Before plugging into the campground source it’s important to check the make sure the pedestal is wired correctly and has proper voltage.  This can be done with a variety of devices such as this digital tester.

The voltage should be at least 110-volts and not more than 124-volts.  Lower than 110-volts will still run appliances, however they will run slower and could cause damage to items like the fan motor in your air conditioners.  If you are plugging into a 30 amp outlet, you will need to use an adapter to check the voltage.  If you plan to use the 50 amp outlet you will need a different tester.

Another option is a multimeter which will tell you the voltage of any of the outlets. 

First, become familiar with the multimeter and the outlet.  Set the dial to AC which is the squiggly line under the A and hold both probes in one hand.  This will prevent electrical current from going through your body if something happens.  On a 15 amp outlet place the red probe in the small slot which should be the hot wire and the black probe in the larger slot which should be the neutral.  You should have a reading of 110-120-volts. 

To check for a properly grounded outlet, keep the red probe in the small (hot) slot and move the black to the ground which has a slight rounded side.  The reading should be the same, if not it is not properly grounded.  Refer to the graphic above.

On a 30 amp outlet refer to the graphic as well and see the hot is always counter clockwise to the ground hole.  Typically the outlet should be mounted with the ground hole at the top but always take caution first.

A 50 amp outlet will have one hot wire or slot on each side and the ground to the top with a rounded side as well.  Each hot slot should have 110-120-volts.

While this method will help check proper wiring and voltage at the time of measurement, it does not help monitor what the voltage does while you are at the campground and the temperature starts to rise and the hundred other rigs start to plug in. That’s why it’s best to get a surge protector such as this popular model from TRC that not only acts as a surge protector in case of a spike in voltage, but also shows the voltage, correct wiring, and amp draw that your RV is pulling.

A few final tips:

 Always shut off the main circuit breaker before plugging in any device to the outlet and turn it off again when disconnecting your power cord. 

If you need an extension cord, use the same gauge as your shoreline power and do not go any longer than 25 feet.

Water and electricity do not mix!  Standing water around a campground pedestal is dangerous.  If the pedestal or your cord is in standing water, stay away and get a qualified electrician and the campground management to come and drain the water and verify it is safe.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Scott C. ~ “I’ve been a member since 2000. After a season and a half of camping with our (new to us) RV, there was an incident where I needed to contact Coach-Net for assistance. My experience was so professional and personal that I thought I needed to let someone know. I was stranded with a severe tire issue and your team took my info, organized a tow, repeatedly followed up with me (so I didn’t feel alone), found a repair facility, and really just took what should be a very stressful situation and made it manageable. Your staff was extremely pleasant and understood that I’m a person going through a tough situation. I can’t thank your team enough. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but your team blew away any expectations I did have. Thank you to your team.” 

5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

02 Friday Oct 2020

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

One of the main reasons people get RVs is electricity. Being able to run an air conditioner, make coffee, and use a microwave while camping is a huge plus. If misused, however, electricity can be dangerous. It is important to remember that the electrical system in your RV is not exactly like the one in a “sticks and bricks” home. Let’s take a look at some RV electrical safety tips to ensure you have a safe and comfortable RVing adventure.

Check your plug and socket before plugging in.

Before plugging your RV into anything, you should take a look at your plug. Look at all of the prongs and note if there are any scorch marks or damage. Make sure there are no chips or missing parts on the prongs. If there are, it may indicate that you had plugged into a socket that caused enough arcing to damage the prongs at one point.

Arcing causes heat, so check the plastic/rubber around your plug. Check for any scorch marks or evidence that melting has occurred. If any part of the plug has melted, then you know at some point, that plug got hot. Loose connections in park receptacles is a common fault that causes heat.

It is not unusual for plugs and even cords to wear out over time, and you may notice a small amount of warping where the prongs meet the body of the plug. If there is a lot of damage and you are not knowledgeable with electrical wiring, you should have a technician take a look at the plug. External plugs and wires are usually easy and quick for a qualified person to replace.

In addition to your plug, you should inspect the socket you are about to plug your RV into. Look for scorch marks, broken pieces of the socket, etc. If there is any indication that the socket has passed its useful life, let the park know. In many cases, they will be able to move you, or they may have someone on staff replace the socket with a new one.

Make sure the park is safe to plug into.

Whenever you plug your RV into a power pedestal at a park, you are trusting that their system is up to code and functioning normally. The potential danger and liability of improperly wired or faulty electrical components prompt many parks to ensure their electrical system is worked on by professionals. There are always exceptions to the rule, and after full-time RVing for over six years now, I have learned that just because a park looks well taken care of doesn’t mean that is the case.

Many products allow you to check the wiring of a socket you are about to plug into. Many of the inexpensive RV surge protectors will tell you if the wiring is correct. The inexpensive ones won’t stop you from using a socket with faulty wiring, but it will inform you about it.

circuit analyzer

This inexpensive circuit analyzer can be found on Amazon for around $55. It offers some surge protection as well.

There are more expensive systems that are called EMSs, which stand for electronic management system. Check out 5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS if you are interested in learning more about the different types of wiring faults and EMSs. Regardless of what method you use, to prevent injury or damage to your RV, make sure the outlet you are plugging into is wired correctly.

Use the right cord.

So let’s say you are visiting friends or family, and one of them has told you to park your RV in the driveway for a free spot. When you arrive, you find the closest power receptacle is about 50 feet away. Your friend offers you a 50-foot extension cord intended to be used in a standard 20 amp household plug. You thank your friend and pull out your plug adapter.

5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

The 30 amp-male to 15 amp-female plugs are great and can be easily found on Amazon. Just remember they are only to be used for 15 amps or less.

This scenario is common and can result in damaged equipment if you are not careful. A typical household extension cord is only intended to run about 15 to 20 amps. That means that you are not going to be able to run all of the appliances you regularly use. Trying to pull too much power from an inappropriately rated cord can cause heat. Heat can melt things and even cause fires.

Watch your amps.

It is important to have an idea of how many amps you are running at one time, especially if you have a 30 amp RV or are plugged into a 30 amp socket. The cheapest way to do this is to know how many watts you have available to use. Below are common breaker amperage ratings and their max wattage on a standard 120-volt socket.

  • 15 amp = 1,800 watts
  • 20 amp = 2,400 watts
  • 30 amp = 3,600 watts
  • 50 amp = 12,000 watts

Most appliances have their wattage written on them somewhere. If you add up all the appliance wattage you have running at once, you can tell how close to your limit you are getting. You may notice that there is quite a jump in available watts when you go from 30 amp to 50 amp. That is because there are actually two 50 amp lines on a 50 amp hookup.

When my wife and I first started RVing, we put little red stickers on all appliances that took 1000 watts and over to run, including the air conditioner. We have a 30 amp RV, so our rule was no more than two 1000+ watt appliances could be run at once.

In addition to not going over your available wattage/amps, you don’t want to consistently push your RV to the limit. This can wear down motors in things like fans and air conditioners, but it can also cause a lot of heat and damage things like plugs and cords. If you want to learn about the formulas used to calculate wattage and more details about how a 30 amp and 50 amp RV system work, I wrote an in-depth article on that here.

Monitor your voltage.

Just like keeping track of your amp/watt usage, it is a good idea to monitor the voltage being supplied to your RV. Appliances can be damaged if the voltage is too high or too low. A quality EMS will prevent dangerous voltage levels from being used in your RV, but they are not cheap.

For those on a budget, a simple voltage monitoring device can be plugged into a wall socket and checked periodically. Most RV parks will not have a problem with the voltage being too high, but you should not run electronics if your voltage starts reading lower than 110.

Volt Meter

A simple digital AC voltmeter that can be found on Amazon.

Electricity is an integral part of our lives. It is easy to forget that it can be a dangerous force when not used properly. Keeping these safety tips in mind may help keep you and your RV safe.

About The Author: Natalie Henley and her husband, Levi, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years.  They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com.

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5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS

09 Wednesday Sep 2020

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips

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5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS

The electrical system in your RV is considered by many to be the most important part of their rig. The A/C, microwave, TV, and all the other appliances depend on electricity. What many people don’t think about is that those systems all rely on that electricity to be delivered properly.

There is always the possibility of lightning or powerline issues, causing a surge of power that can wreak havoc on your appliances and electrical system. RV parks can be a gamble when it comes to wiring too. You never know who may have wired the pedestal you are about to plug into.  Many RVers are familiar with the basic RV surge protectors that you can get for $100.

Most of those have an indicator to tell you of potential wiring problems, which can be a big help. They will not prevent power pedestals with wiring issues from sending that power to your RV. Their only saving function is to divert large voltage surges to the ground before they get sent to your RV. They have a lifespan of how many times they can protect you too.

An RV EMS surge protector or electronic management system is the safest option when it comes to protecting your RV electrical system and all of the appliances. Below are five reasons why every RVer should have one.

1. They Protect From Power Surges And Drops.

Power surges happen for several reasons. Lightning is the first thing that comes to people’s minds, but we create small surges every time we turn an electrical device on or off. When it is just us in our home, we generally don’t turn things on and off too frequently or at the same time.

Power Surge

An older RV park may share all of its power posts with one transformer. Imagine the RV park is a house, and every RVer is an occupant in it. You may have 50 or more electrical devices in the form of washers, dryers, air conditioners, coffee makers, TVs, and many others being switched on and off constantly and at the same time. You will inevitably get some voltage fluctuations. It is important to note that not all RV parks are poorly wired or fit the wiring description above. It isn’t necessarily possible to tell though, while you are plugging your RV into their park.

Sometimes those fluctuations will come in the form of an increase of voltage for a fraction of a second. Others will be the opposite, and your voltage will drop to unsafe levels temporarily. It is even possible for too many high power devices to cause an extended voltage drop to the whole park. Both voltage spikes and drops cause damage to electronics. It may not destroy them right away, but it can shorten the lifespan of the device considerably.

A quality EMS/surge protector will detect these changes in voltage and cut power to the RV if the voltage falls out of safe levels. Unlike a basic surge protector, EMS systems will not only protect your RV from high voltage, but it will also prevent damage from low voltage.

Surge Protector

Portable EMS systems like the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X Portable RV Surge Protector require no setup. Just plug it into the power post.

 

2. They Can Prevent You From Plugging Into An Incorrectly-Wired Socket.

Sometimes a power surge is not your issue. Some parks have relied on unqualified workers to rewire plugs and even power pedestals. Other parks have old wiring in need of an update. It is possible to have a host of wiring issues at a campground.

Open Ground: This happens when the park’s power post is not properly grounded. The purpose of a ground wire is to send stray voltage into the ground to prevent electrical shock in the event of electrical leakage. Say a wire somewhere was nicked. A properly grounded system would send any stray electricity to the ground.

An improperly grounded system or open ground system can send stray voltage into your chassis or RV shell. Stepping on the steps or even touching your door handle, in that case, could result in a dangerous shock.

Open Neutral: In this scenario, the white or neutral wire in the socket is open or not connected. This can happen due to mistakes in wiring or old sockets. If you plug a 30 amp RV into a socket with an open neutral condition, you can still receive a shock from the sockets, but nothing will work.

Power Surge

If you have a 50 amp RV, however, the plug will go from carrying 120 volts through two prongs to potentially carrying up to 240 volts to part of your RV. This voltage can kill most electronics in your RV rather quickly.

Reverse Polarity: An unqualified electrician may accidentally cross the white and black wires of a socket. This is known as reverse polarity. Plugging into a plug that is wired this way can damage equipment.

An EMS will not only tell you when these faults are present, but it also will not let electricity go into the RV. Most will allow electricity to come back on after about two minutes, provided that the fault is taken care of.

3. Some Can Be Mounted Inside An RV To Prevent Theft.

One of the biggest problems people have with plug and play surge protectors, as well as plug and play EMSs, is the fact that they are easily stolen. It makes sense; it’s a high dollar item that is easy to take. Fortunately, some EMS models, like the Progressive Industries HW30C 30 Amp Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector, along with the 50 amp version, are meant to be mounted inside the RV as a permanent install. This not only ensures electrical protection regardless of how you plug your RV in, but it prevents would-be thieves from walking away with it.

Indoor-Mounted Surge Protector

The Progressive Industries HW30C mounts inside your RV and has a remote digital display.

4. Many Come With An Amperage Meter Display.

If you have a 30 amp RV, or if you have a 50 amp and are plugged into a 30 amp, you know the pain of always worrying about running too many things at once. You may wonder at times how many amps you are running on average. Fortunately, many EMS systems have an amperage display so you can keep track of how close you are to maxing-out your RV’s electrical system.

5. They Are Less Expensive Than Replacing Your RV Electrical System And Devices.

Many people shy away from the $300-$400 price tag of EMS/surge protectors. That is until they start adding up the cost of replacing all of the electrical components. Imagine replacing your microwave, TV, laptops, air conditioner, and other electronic devices. That alone will cost at least a couple thousand dollars. We haven’t even discussed replacing broken components in your RV electrical system due to faulty wiring and power issues at an RV park. Ultimately, it’s cheaper to be on the safe side and keep your RV’s electrical system protected.

 

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Pamela C. ~ “I received RV tech support that was excellent! Leonard was awesome. He had me send him pics of our issue while on the phone so he could walk me through what we needed. So helpful!” 

How Shocking!

25 Thursday Sep 2014

Posted by in Tech Tips

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How-ShockingThe complexity of RVs can be frustrating, but the multiple electrical systems in RVs are essential in order to accomplish the various tasks required.  Generally, RVs contain both a 120 VAC (120 volt alternating current) system and a 12 VDC (12 volt direct current) system.  It’s important to know how to avoid an electrical accident.  Most accidents and injuries arise from contact with electrical current and are a result of lack of understanding or negligence on the part of the person injured.  Here we’ll outline the different types of electrical systems in your RV and the safety precautions to take when working with them.

AC Power

Shore-PowerAlternating current (AC) is the more familiar electrical system.  It is the same type of power used in houses.  For RVs, there are typically three different sources that provide AC power: shore power (the electrical pedestal at your campsite), generator, and inverter.  The 120 VAC system operates most of your household devices including air conditioners, fans, water heaters, TVs, coffee makers, and virtually any of the “extras” you would want in your RV.

Follow these safety rules when working with AC power:

  • Always make certain to shut off electrical power. It is best to turn off the main breaker in the AC distribution panel and to disconnect shore power at the sources.  Post a sign on or near the short cord connection and distribution panel to warn others that you are working on the electrical system.  This step is intended to prevent someone else from plugging in the power cord or turning the system on.
  • Take a moment before working on or touching a 120 VAC power source to use a test probe or meter to verify that the circuit you are working on is not energized.
  • If your RV is equipped with a generator with an automatic start feature, be sure to disable this feature before you begin working. Consult the generator’s operating instructions or turn off the main breakers on the generator to be certain.
  • RVs equipped with an inverter may energize some circuits, even with the generator output disabled and shore power disconnected. Be certain to disable the inverter’s AC output by turning off the main breaker in the inverter sub-panel or by disconnecting the DC input to the inverter.  Consult your inverter owner’s manual for specific instructions on disabling inverter output.
  • When working on or near circuits that must be energized, use only properly insulated tools and great caution. Routinely inspected tools and test instrument probes to ensure they are not damaged and a potential shock hazard.
  • When working on the RV electrical system from outside the coach, avoid using aluminum ladders and touching other metal objects such as metal pipes or poles that create a low resistance path to ground. Touching a low resistance path to ground could make YOU the path of least resistance.
  • When replacing breakers or fuses, always use breakers rated appropriately for the conductor (wire size) that they are intended to protect. If you are uncertain of the correct breaker size, consult a qualified electrician. Over time and with repeated usage circuit breakers can weaken, resulting in more false tripping.  Replacing consistently tripped breakers should be one of your first trouble-shooting procedures.
  • When repairing or replacing any 120 VAC component or wires in your RV, use an identical item to assure that it has adequate capability to handle the electrical current.
  • Do not arbitrarily replace breakers with a higher amperage rating to cure a frequent false tripping problem. This might overload the wire presenting an overheating or fire hazard.  It is better to find the actual cause of the repeatedly blown circuit breaker and repair it as required.

DC Power

RV-solar-panelsThe second type of electrical power used in RVs is low voltage direct current (DC).  DC in RVs consists primarily of 12 volts with some larger coaches and buses employing 24 volts or a combination of 12 and 24 volt systems.  The DC used for these systems normally comes from one of five sources on an RV:  engine alternator, power converter/inverter, battery bank, solar panel, or wind generator. This system is considered to be the primary power system in the RV and is commonly used to provide power for the water pump, RV engine, instruments, radio, and accessories.

Follow these safety rules when working with DC power:

  • Always disconnect DC power when working on the low voltage DC electrical system. When in doubt, it is safest to disconnect the entire system by pulling the negative (ground) battery cable and disconnecting shore power.
  • Always disable the converter and solar panels (if present) in your RV before working on the batteries or DC electrical circuits. Even with the batteries disconnected, the solar panels or converter may be capable of producing DC power and energizing the circuit you are working on.  Consult your owner’s manuals for specific instructions on disabling or disconnecting these devices.
  • Some RVs have a master shut-off switch to shut down DC power. If your RV is not equipped with a DC disconnect switch, you must disconnect the DC ground (negative) conductor from the circuit in order to disable DC power.  Do not break a live circuit at the battery terminals due to the risk of arcing in the presence of hydrogen gas.  Instead, disconnect the DC ground conductor at the chassis ground connection, which should be far enough away from the battery to minimize the possibility of an arc causing a safety hazard.
  • Note that some master switch systems are only partial shut-off. Be certain that you understand what circuits are shut off with the master switch.  These same precautions should also be followed when using a battery charger or when attempting to use battery “jumper cables”.
  • Take a moment before working on or touching a 12 VDC power source to use a test probe or meter to verify that the circuit you are working on is not energized.
  • When working on or near circuits that must be energized, use only properly insulated tools and great caution. Routinely inspect tools and test instrument probes to ensure they are not damaged.
  • Always replace fuses or circuit breakers with identical components that carry the same rating. To use a higher-rated component might momentarily solve a problem, but it might also allow more current to flow in the circuit than the wiring is capable of handling without overheating, damaging the insulation, and possibly leading to a fire.  Over time and with repeated usage, circuit breakers can weaken resulting in more false tripping.  Replacing consistently tripped breakers should be one of your first trouble-shooting procedures.

Familiarity with your RV’s electrical system will yield great dividends in terms of peace of mind and will provide many benefits while you operate and live in your RV.  Happy RVing!

 

Source:  Electrical Safety Cited with permission from author.
To purchase this book, visit RVSafetyinfo.com
Neil W. LeKander – The RVer’s Ultimate Survival Guide.  2002.