Proper RV Weight Distribution

15 Friday May 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

Tags

RV Tips, RV travel, Safety, tech tip, tire care, Travel Safety, Travel Tips, weight distribution

Driving an RV is like driving a semi-truck when it comes to weight and handling. You’re dealing with a wide and heavy load whose weight alone makes it handle differently than other vehicles you’re used to driving. Motorhomes, as well as travel and fifth-wheel trailers, are very top heavy in nature and very susceptible to side wind forces which can create a unique problem for RVers.

The Balancing Act

Motorhomes are already designed with the proper placement of cabinetry and facilities to effectively balance your rig. When loading your RV, it is very important to keep in mind that proper weight distribution is critical to ensure safe handling. Be sure to evenly space out the weight and cargo within your coach. From fuel, water and propane to towed items, supplies and passengers…everything counts. You’ll appreciate this proper balancing when you try to turn or maneuver your rig in traffic.

overloaded rv When you’re pulling your travel trailer behind you, it’s essential (depending on weight/length of your trailer) to use a weight distribution or equalizer hitch that will balance out your ride. Otherwise, too much weight in the front of the trailer will place excessive weight on the back of the towing vehicle, raising the front of your tow vehicle and causing loss of steering control, hitch dragging and braking difficulties. The key is to balance the weight over the axles and the hitch.

Don’t Overload Your Coach

Know your RV’s load rating, otherwise known as GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating), which is the amount your vehicle is designed to carry. This includes the vehicle’s chassis, body, engine, all fluids and accessories, driver and passengers. It is also important to know your GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating), which is the amount your coach can carry (GVWR) + how much weight you can tow behind you coach. You can find this information either on your door edge or on the manufacturer’s placard near the driver’s seat. You’ll also find load ratings on pickups, campers, travel trailers and tow vehicles. Overloading your RV or tow vehicle can be serious, and it has major effects on tires, wheels, springs and axles.

You can easily get your RV weighed for a fee at a truck stop; they’ll even give you a weight slip that shows the front axle and total weight. (For motorized RVs, it is recommended that the front axle account for approximately 33-35% of total weight.) Ultimately, you should take your RV to a professional weighing agency to make sure it isn’t overweight on the corners or axles.

Weight Distribution Tips to Remember

Keep the center of gravity low and set tire pressure appropriately
Keep cargo and weight evenly spaced out
Keep your cargo secure to prevent shifting and sliding around
Use a weight distribution hitch system (for trailers over 5000 pounds)

Before your next trip, remember that proper weight distribution is a must! It will help avoid unwelcome problems in ride quality, handling and braking…and ultimately help provide for a safe and enjoyable RV experience.

De-Winterizing Your RV

15 Wednesday Apr 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

de-winterizing rv, RV tech tip, RV Tips, RV travel, tech tip

For those of us who aren’t full-time RVers, it’s the time of year when our thoughts turn to the start of the camping season. If you live in a cold climate, part of the coach prep routine includes de-winterizing. Although this process is more straightforward than winterizing, it is a good idea to remind ourselves of the basic steps. It is assumed that the winterization process was performed by filling the system with non-toxic anti-freeze and bypassing the water heater. These tips should work for any size and type RV.

Make sure all RV water taps are fully closed.
Ensure the water pump is turned off.
Close, plug, or cap the fresh water tank drain.
Cap the low point drains if applicable.
Close the hot water tank drain valve or replace the anode rod or tank plug. Be sure to place thread sealant tape (PTFE tape) on the plug or rod prior to threading it into the hole. If you have an aluminum tank that does not use an anode rod, such as an Atwood, a plastic plug is recommended. If you place a steel plug into an aluminum tank (or vice-versa), an electrochemical reaction, called galvanic corrosion, between the different metals may cause the plug to seize into the hole. For steel tanks, do not substitute a plug for the anode rod, and replace the rod if it has significant erosion.
Connect a potable water hose between a convenient household faucet and the RV fresh water connection.
Turn on the water supply to the RV.
Starting with the tap furthest away from the RV fresh water connection, slowly open the cold water tap so anti-freeze flows (usually pink in color). Note that the furthest fixture from the water connection may be an external tap.
When there is no longer any anti-freeze in the line, turn off the cold water tap and repeat the process with the hot water tap.
Repeat steps 8 & 9 with all remaining tap sets, including the lavatory.
Close all taps and put at least a few inches of water in the fresh water tank. Add some RV water system freshener.
Turn off the fresh water supply and turn on the water pump.
Open any cold water tap for at least 20 seconds to purge anti-freeze in the pump line.
Turn off the water pump and set the water heater bypass valve(s) to disable the bypass.
Turn on the fresh water supply and allow the water heater to fill.
Once the water heater is full, place a rag over the closest hot water tap and SLOWLY open it a small amount. There will be significant aeration from the hot water tank air space, so use the rag to contain the splashing. Do not open the tap fully until aeration is complete.
Repeat step 16 with the other hot water taps until no aeration exists.
Open the cold water taps once more to verify steady flow.
Turn off the fresh water supply and pump and stow the hose.

Congratulations, the de-winterization process is complete, except for draining the holding tanks, which is most conveniently done at your first campsite of the season.

For your convenience, here is a print-ready checklist.

About the Author:

Coach-Net is pleased to welcome Steve Froese to our team of writers. Steve, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

Solar RVing – Part 2

10 Friday Apr 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

go green, green RVing, RV Life, RV travel, solar RVing

Welcome back to Solar RVing! Part 1 discussed the benefits of using solar panels on your RV travels. Part 2 will focus on what it will take to transition into using solar panels in order to harness the free energy shining down from above.

Not all RV solar panels are alike, so it’s important that you get one that can address your energy needs. Here are a few items to consider when choosing the right solar panels:

1. Know how much power you actually need

You can buy a recording meter/battery monitor to help determine this or you can calculate it yourself.

2. Calculate the battery bank capacity you’ll need

Your RV batteries should have a total capacity that is four times the amount of your daily power consumption. And remember that in order to keep your RV batteries running smoothly, you need to make sure that their discharge never goes beyond 25% of their total capacity.

3. Compute your RV solar panel wattage

Your RV’s solar panel wattage will determine just how much output in watts you will need from your solar panels to keep your RV batteries charging continuously. Take into consideration that your required RV solar panel wattage depends on your location. The sunnier it is, the lower wattage you will need. The cloudier it is, the more wattage you will need. For example, the south typically gets plenty of sunshine; therefore, 1 watt of solar panel output for every 1 amp-hour of battery capacity is recommended. For cloudy areas, 1.5 watts of solar panel output for every 1 amp-hour of battery capacity is recommended. The amount of sunlight you can harvest using your solar panels will be greatly reduced on cloudy and rainy days.

4. Check the RV solar panel’s specifications before you buy it

Make sure you pay extra attention to the solar panel’s watt rating, peak power in amps and in volts, and tolerance.

The solar panel’s watt rating should correspond to your daily power consumption
The peak power in amps measures the total amount of power in amps that your solar panel will produce when there is full sunlight. This specification will come in handy when you are buying a solar charge controller.
The peak power in volts gives you the total amount of power in volts that your solar panel will produce when there is full sunlight. This specification is important when determining the efficiency of your solar panel. The higher the number, the more efficient the solar panel is.
Tolerance refers to power loss in the solar panel. The lower the percentage of tolerance that panel has, the better its performance is.

There are custom systems that can be professionally installed and less expensive, do-it-yourself solar kits if you’re savvy in this sort of thing. You can increase the efficiency of your RV solar panels by giving thought to the layout of your RV’s interior before you put up your solar panels. When you have a solar panel on your RV, you need to park your rig so that your solar panel tilts to the south. So you won’t waste your harnessed solar energy, it will help if your appliances are situated on the cooler side of your RV where they won’t get a lot of direct sunlight.

Once you install a solar panel on the roof of your rig, the amount of solar energy available for your RV solar panels to harness depends on a number of factors, including whether it’s full sunshine, or if your RV is parked on a shady spot. You’ll need to be able to regulate the voltage output using a solar charge controller. A solar charge controller will help ensure that your solar panels will produce enough power for your needs and also prevent your solar panels from mooching power from your batteries at night when there is no sunlight.

In a few years, solar will be everywhere. There is emotional satisfaction in having a high degree of energy independence and of knowing we have helped to pave the way to clean, sustainable solar power that can ensure a brighter future for our children and grandchildren.

A Whole New Level

17 Tuesday Mar 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

RV, RV Camping, RV leveling, RV Tips, tech tip, tips

Many readers are probably familiar with the process of manual coach leveling; find the most level spot on the pad, use bubble levels to monitor which corners need to go up and by how much, lay down the ramps (these days, plastic ramps of adjustable heights are available), drive the coach onto the blocks to the appropriate height, and move the coach if the height is not correct. It can be a painstaking process, especially when a travel trailer or fifth-wheel is involved. Three- or four-point hydraulic leveling systems make the task of leveling your motorhome a walk in the park, with some systems even performing the task automatically.

Whether your RV has hydraulic levellers or manual jacks, carrying jack pads, with dimensions slightly larger than the jack foot is recommended. Center a pad under each jack foot prior to lowering it all the way to the ground. This will help protect the ground surface, whether it’s dirt, grass, or concrete. This is especially important with blacktop, as it is very easy for RV jacks to damage blacktop, especially in the case of hydraulic jacks. Using blocks will also further distribute the weight being exerted on each jack foot, minimizing the possibility of the jack(s) sinking into the ground. Hydraulic levelling jacks are generally single-acting, which means that, although hydraulic pressure is used to lower the jack, spring force is used to retract it. Once in a while a jack will get stuck in the mud or soft soil because the spring force is not enough to pull it out. Jack pads help prevent this from happening. Also remember that if you use stabilizing jacks like those shown at the right with a travel or pop-up trailer, be sure to use them for stabilizing only and do not try to level a trailer with them, as they are not strong enough.

But why do we go to the trouble of making sure our recreational vehicles are absolutely level? Aside from the obvious fact that we want to be comfortable while living in the RV, some believe it is also important for the fridge to be totally level. This last point is actually not strictly true. In the early days of absorption refrigeration, the burner and gravity process utilized by the technology was much less mature than it is today. Back then, if the fridge wasn’t extremely level, it tended not to work very well. Now, absorption technology has evolved to the point where the vehicle doesn’t have to be as level as it used to be. Simply stated, these days, it is a generally held view that if you are comfortable in your RV, your fridge will be as well. Given the popularity of hydraulic levelling systems (even available in Class B vans), as well as the increasing occurrence of level RV sites across all park types, the requirement for painstaking levelling of an RV is not as prevalent as it used to be. This is not to say that general levelling is not important, just make sure you sleep with your head higher than your feet.

About the Author:

Proper RV Tire Inflation

13 Friday Mar 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

RV tech tip, RV Tips, RV Tires, tech tip, Tire Inflation, tire pressure

The most important factor in maintaining the life of your RV tires is making sure they are always properly inflated. There’s a reason why the tires you bought came with specific recommendations for proper inflation, so it’s important to get to know your tires and your owner’s manual.

Seven Basic Tire Inflation Tips

Check your tire pressure at least once a month
Check tire inflation before a trip, while your tires are cold
Check tires before and after storage
On short trips of a day or less driving each way, check before you leave and before you return home
Use a truck tire gauge with a dual-angled head to check inner and outer wheels together
Under inflation causes poor handling, excessive wear, poor gas mileage, and structural damage
Over inflation reduces traction and makes your rig harder to handle

Maximum Load Limit and Air Pressure

The amount of pressure required in each tire depends on the weight of the fully loaded vehicle. So you cannot determine the tire’s correct pressure unless you know your vehicle’s actual weight. The maximum load capacity allowed for the tire’s size and load rating and the minimum cold inflation pressure needed to carry that maximum load are located on the tire’s sidewall. (For example: “635 kg [1400 lbs] at 300 kPa [44 psi]). The lower the pressure, the lighter the load that tire can carry. Be sure to check your owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommended inflation and proper air pressure of your vehicle’s tires.

Weigh Your Coach

Know your RV’s load rating, otherwise known as GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating = the amount your unit is designed to carry), which also affects the pressure you put in your tires. You can find this information either on your door edge or near the driver’s seat. You can easily get your RV weighed for a fee at a truck stop; they’ll even give you a weight slip that shows the front axle and total weight. Ultimately, you should take your RV to a professional weighing agency to make sure it isn’t overweight on the corners or axles. Overloading your RV can be disastrous, and it has major affects on tires, wheels, springs and axles.

Remember:

Weigh your RV fully loaded (with passengers, food, water, propane, and any vehicles being towed by your RV)
Get axle-end specific weights when you weigh your RV
You won’t get equal loads at both ends of the same axle — just get the best possible balance
Find the heaviest end of each axle and use that load to select inflation for all tires on that axle
Use a weight distribution system for trailers over 5000 lbs

Staying Connected On The Road

06 Friday Mar 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

RV Tips, RV travel, Stay Connected, tips, Travel Tips

We understand that one of the joys of RV life is being footloose and fancy free, without a care in the world. You want to travel the open roads and enjoy the simple things in life along the way…but you still need to be connected to the “real” world — connected to your family and friends; connected to your trusty Coach-Net roadside assistance provider; connected to your digital books and magazines you love to read; and even connected to those pesky bills that need to be paid every month. Let’s face it – as much as you may hate it, you can’t imagine being without your cell phones, laptops and internet service. The trick is making sure you are connected even in some of the most remote areas. We can show you how! And, if you want to dig a bit deeper or get a few more traveling tech tips, check out Geeks on Tour for some very helpful information.

Wireless: What Does It Mean?

Let’s start with the basics. A wireless network uses radio waves, just like cell phones, televisions and radios do. In fact, communication across a wireless network is a lot like two-way radio communication. Wireless connectivity can be achieved via Wi-Fi, cellular or satellite. We have compiled a list of options for achieving better connectivity and encourage you to research all of your choices to find out what is the best fit for you.

Wi-Fi

Public Wi-Fi: Much like what you’ll get in parks or hotspots around town, these are shared access points that work in a range of approximately 300 ft. or more. Public Wi-Fi is not secure so please use at your own risk.
Air Cards: These connect to your laptop and are typically provided by a cell phone company. Basically, you’ll get internet access wherever you go as long as you have cell phone reception.

Satellite

If your travelers want to watch TV while on the road, you’ll need an RV satellite. Dish and DirecTV both offer RV satellite options that include broadband service for your internet surfing needs. Look for a low-profile RV satellite that mounts on your roof and doesn’t reach any higher than your roof vent. Besides, you don’t really need to add any more height than you already have on your rig.

Cellular Tethering

Have you heard of it? It’s a pretty cool feature that turns your phone into your wireless modem, enabling wireless to be pulled from your phone to work on your laptop. You can purchase software called PDANet for about $40, and there are applications available for Blackberry, Android and iPhone. When installed, it works just like an air card and eliminates the hassle of searching for hot spots. More About Tethering.

Technology is both exciting and ever changing, so stay tuned and connected for updates and new tools as you keep rolling in your RV!

Understanding Your RV Converter/Inverter

17 Tuesday Feb 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 44 Comments

Tags

converter, inverter, RV converter, RV tech tip, RV Tips, tech tip

Without a properly working power converter, RV appliances and electrical fixtures won’t run. The converter ensures that power is properly distributed throughout the RV, 12V is supplied to the DC systems when the RV is plugged in to shore power or running off a generator, and the house batteries are kept charged. It is one of those “out of sight, out of mind” devices. However, an alternative to a converter is an inverter. This article will compare the functions of the converter and inverter. While there are many different types and sizes of the inverter, we will focus on the larger, permanently installed types that also incorporate a battery charger.

Whether converters are stand-alone or modular, they all perform the same three primary functions. First, the device converts some of the incoming 120V AC to 12V DC power for the house system when the RV is connected to shore power or generator. This prevents the house batteries from being drained when the RV has 120V power, and is the function for which the converter is named. An inverter does the opposite and connects directly to the RV batteries to invert (and rectify) the 12V DC to create 120V AC output. Unlike a converter, an inverter creates AC power without the need for shore power or a generator.

Converters also provide a means to distribute power to the different AC and DC circuits in the RV. This power distribution system takes the main power coming from the shore line or generator and distributes it to different branch circuits through individual breaker switches. There is a separate fuse panel for the various 12V house systems. Inverters do not have a distribution system built-in, so require separate fuse panels and breaker boxes to be installed. If you find that you are missing some AC or DC power in your RV, inspecting the circuit breakers and fuses first is suggested.

Finally, both converters and inverter/chargers keep the house batteries charged whenever the RV is plugged in to shore power or the generator is running. It should be noted that while converters incorporate a battery charging feature, the charging current available is often quite low. This means that these converters are not able to properly charge house batteries that are at a low state of charge. Stand-alone high-output battery chargers are required for this purpose. Inverter/chargers usually have much higher battery charging capability, often up to 100 Amps, and charge the batteries by simply reversing the inversion process when the RV is plugged in.

The most important thing to be aware of with an inverter is capacity. Because the inverter must produce ten times the voltage when inverting from 12V to 120V, it also pulls ten times more current from the batteries. For example, if you are watching a TV that requires a 5 Amp AC draw, the inverter is drawing 50 Amps from the batteries.

Although having an inverter installed in your RV is highly recommended, there are a few things to consider. First, due to the large current load required, inverters are unable to power large appliances such as air-conditioners, as the batteries would drain quickly. Generators or shore power are still required for this. Second, invest in a pure sine wave inverter, as regular inverters produce a square wave that can easily damage sensitive electronics. Finally, it is a good idea to incorporate a solar panel array with the inverter system. This provides for some battery voltage recovery while dry camping.

About the Author:

*Images within the body content were provided by and used with permission from the author.

Power For The People

20 Tuesday Jan 2015

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

battery care, RV battery, RV Tips, tech tip, tips

Recreational vehicles, whether motorized or towed, consist of two primary operational house systems, these being electrical and propane. Both systems must be properly maintained for maximum reliability and safety. Since some newer RVs utilize no propane system at all, it can be said that the most important house system in all RV’s is the electrical system. The central figure in the electrical system is, of course, the batteries.

Just like your brick and mortar home, it is important to keep your home on wheels maintained and healthy. RV owners should understand the importance of proper battery maintenance in the primary areas of winter storage, charging, and regular inspection.

Winter Storage:

If you store your RV during the winter, taking the following steps will ensure your batteries stay fresh and last longer:

If the RV is to be stored for more than a few months, the batteries should be removed and stored in a cool, dry location.
Top off the cells with distilled water, fully charge the batteries and clean the surface and terminals prior to storage. Stored batteries should be recharged every two months.
Do not place the batteries directly on a concrete floor. Place them on wooden planks to prevent direct contact with concrete.
Store batteries where they will not be subjected to spark, flame, heat sources, or freezing.

Always be extremely careful and wear gloves and eye protection when working with batteries and electrolyte. Leaving batteries in the RV during storage subjects them to possible fluctuations in humidity, temperature, and parasitic loads, all of which can cause premature battery failure. Battery theft is also a risk in stored RVs. Before removing the batteries, be sure to create a wiring diagram for easier re-installation.

Charging:

There are four fundamental stages of battery charge for wet cells:

Bulk – The main part of the charging cycle, which quickly brings batteries to 80- 90% charge using the maximum current of the charger.
Absorption – Tapers the charge current down and slowly charges the last 10-20% before entering float mode.
Float – Keeps the batteries “topped up”, maintaining a lower voltage (around 13.7 V) to prevent electrolyte loss caused by overheating the water in the battery.
Equalize – A high-voltage charge applied periodically to remove any sulfur buildup (sulfation) that accumulates on the battery plates (applies only to wet cell batteries).

Most entry level and many mid-level recreational vehicles utilize inexpensive single-stage chargers that only provide the “float” stage. This ultimately results in sulfation and the batteries never reaching full charge, which reduces the life of the batteries.

An upgrade to a multi-stage “smart” charger is recommended. These units monitor battery condition and apply the stages listed above based on battery charge state. Any single-stage charger can be upgraded, and it is well worth the price to increase battery life. Your RV manual should provide information as to what type of converter/charger you have.

Inspection:

It is important to perform regular inspection and maintenance of RV house batteries. Regularly wipe the battery cases clean, check the electrolyte level, and inspect the terminals and wiring. Also, look for sweating or bulging of the case, which normally indicates a failed battery. Clean the battery posts and tighten the wiring terminals as required. Corrosion may tend to build up on the house batteries, especially in the case of a motorhome. It is a good idea to keep steel wool, fine sandpaper, baking soda, and a toothbrush in your toolbox. Use the steel wool and sandpaper to keep the terminals and posts clean and mix the baking soda with water to create an effective battery post cleaner.

Following these simple steps will help keep your house batteries, the lifeline of your RV, working efficiently for longer.

About the Author:

*Images within the body content were provided by and used with permission from the author.

RV Winter Travel Safety

17 Wednesday Dec 2014

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

emergency kit, RV Safety, Travel Safety, winter emergency kit

Most people who travel during the winter know that extra precautions are needed before hitting the road. Winter weather can change in an instant, so you must always be prepared for rain, snow, sleet, ice, and fog. Be sure to check the weather forecasts and road conditions along your route and at your destination. Also, let others know your route and time schedule; contact them if you must deviate from that route.

To help you stay safe on your winter travels, we have compiled a list of items you should always carry in your vehicle in the event of an emergency or inclement weather.

Winter Travel Emergency Kit

Water Heater Love

19 Wednesday Nov 2014

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

RV Tips, RV travel, tech tip, water heater

water-heater-header

RVers should perform a maintenance check on water heaters every six months to a year — that is, if you want to enhance its operation, extend the life, and prevent high repair costs. This is especially true if you’re spending most of your time in areas where the water has a high mineral content. It’s a simple task that just takes a little know-how. And we are here to help.

Draining

Draining and flushing is necessary because mineral build up corrodes components inside your heater over time.

Safety first. Make sure water has completely cooled off — you might even want to turn it off the night before you plan to work on it
Flip the breaker to turn off power
Close gas supply and water pump
Open all hot and cold fixtures through the unit
If you have a bypass valve, place it in the bypass position
Open the exterior door to your unit and remove anode rod if you have one (you may need a socket).

Flushing

This works best if you have a flushing wand attached to the end of a garden hose. It works like a water pic for the interior of your drain hole. Don’t be surprised if the water coming out is white looking at first — just keep flushing until it’s clear and clean.

Storing

If you won’t be using your hot water heater for while, simply drain your water heater before storing it. This will prevent damage from freezing and mineral content in your tank.

Cleaning

As a side note, it’s a good idea to also clean your tank every couple of years. Just put a 50/50 mixture of water and vinegar in your tank via your winterizing system intake. Then just turn on your water heater and allow it to boil for an hour or so. When complete, turn off and allow complete cooling before you drain and flush as instructed above. As always, read your owner’s manual for specific instructions related to your model.

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