Category Archives: Tech Tips

Effective Tips For Increasing Your RV Air Conditioner Efficiency

03 Wednesday Aug 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

With record temperatures hitting almost every part of the nation, I’m getting quite a number of questions on how to make the old Coleman and Dometic roof air conditioners cool more efficiently. I know we have featured this in the past however, there are some new products on the market as well as a little trick I found when it comes to the standard air diverters in ducted roof air conditioners.

First, Regular Maintenance

Most RV owners don’t know there is some maintenance required to keep the roof AC running efficiently. After all, they never had to do anything to their unit at home why is it any differently? Let’s take a look at how the RV roof air conditioner works and what we can do periodically to help it work as designed.

When the thermostat calls for cooler air, the motor starts in the system and draws the warm, moist interior air up through the air return in the ceiling.

 

Whether your unit is a direct flow like this older unit or it is ducted throughout the ceiling, the air return will have a thin filter to catch dust, dander, or other objects. This filter must be checked and cleaned periodically or it will block airflow and not only make the unit run less efficiently but could ruin the compressor and motor.

The warm moist air comes up through the return and is pulled through the evaporator coil at which time the coolant has been sent from the compressor and “flashes” which pulls heat out and moisture. The evaporator coil needs to be checked and cleaned periodically as well.

Here is a unit from the local campground that stopped working. The evaporator coil was caked with body powder! This unit sat directly above the bedroom area where the owner created a cloud of powder every morning! The evaporator needs to be checked and cleaned at least once a year. You can access this from the inside by pulling off the return air shroud and looking up through the hole.

This is what a good evaporator coil should look like. You can use a small portable vacuum to clean the coils however if they are really dirty, you will need to go up on the roof, take off the shroud, and then take off the evaporator housing and clean it. If you use a garden hose, cover the return air vent or you will get water inside the rig. If you get water or moisture spraying out when the air conditioner is blowing, it could be the drain holes are plugged and moisture is trapped in the drip pan. Check these periodically as well.

Next, the coolant flows back to the condenser coil where outside air is drawn into it down so it can go through the cycle again. Even with 110-degree outside heat, the air drawn in is much less than the high temperatures the coolant can reach. Make sure the condenser fins are not blocking airflow and are straight. It’s not uncommon to see flattened fins from hail or tree branches especially the older units with flat open backs. Some manufacturers are putting them at an angle or in a circle with a covered vent.

Create Inside Airflow

The roof air conditioner of your RV can only cool or “condition” air down 16 degrees from what it is pulling in. As your unit sits in the sweltering sun, inside temperatures can get 20-30 degrees hotter than the outside temperature and sometimes even more. And since hot air rises, the temperature at the inside ceiling of your rig could be 120 degrees! That means your roof air conditioner will pull it in and blowback 104 degrees into your rig. Use your roof vents, windows, and fans to move air around and pull as much warm moist air out as possible if your rig is sweltering.

Create A More Efficient Ducted Airflow

If you have a direct flow unit in which the air comes directly out of vents on the unit, there is not much you can do to improve the airflow as it is basically dumped out like a residential window air conditioner. However, if you have vents in the ceiling and air is distributed from the unit through ductwork there are some modifications you can perform.

Both ducted and non-ducted roof airs are basically the same unit with a few additional components. For ducted models, the unit is shipped with a generic baffle or thin piece of material, typically foam that the manufacturer needs to cut to length and insert into the opening. This is what diverts or directs the air coming from the fan to the ductwork rather than vents on the bottom of the unit.

Here is the diverter on a 2015 Thor Challenger we worked on recently. Notice the back of the unit, behind the diverter, has a side duct going back to the vents. Also, notice all the gaps above and on the side of the diverter! This allows air to blow back into the air return rather than going to the ductwork. Also, when the air comes off the fan it goes straight down and hits the shroud or plastic cover it creates a whirlwind effect and again, limits the airflow. All these gaps and connecting points can be covered with duct sealing tape that you can get at any home improvement store. I would even suggest getting the insulated foam tape and covering all exposed metal as this will also create condensation if left exposed.

To help even further, RV Airflow Systems has developed an aftermarket kit that can be installed to take away the whirlwind effect and increase airflow by 40%. At least that is what they claim. Next month we will be installing one on this unit and will let you know how well it works but it does make sense! You can find more information on their website here: rvairflow.com/collections/all

Lower Your Initial Amp Draw And Use Two Roof AC Units

When the thermostat calls for cooler temperatures and your unit’s motor and compressor kick in, the initial amp draw can be as high as 50 amps or more. Normally that is more than a 30 amp circuit at a campground could handle however, it is just for a short amount of time and typically does not blow the breaker at the pedestal. But it does limit you from using two roof air units on a 30 amp service if they both kick in at the same time. Plus it is a constant issue when you bring the rig home to get it ready for the next camping trip and plug it into a 20 amp garage outlet. Also, if you have a trailer and are using a portable generator rather than shoreline power, you can’t use one of the smaller units just because of the high amp draw at start-up.

Last month we installed and tested a new product called Soft Start RV that reduces the initial amp draw by almost 70%. It also eliminated the annoying “thumping” at start-up and our initial tests showed a startup amp draw of only 10 amps! It is easy to install with just 6 wires and no cutting of any existing roof air conditioner wires. If you can crimp on a few spade connections and get on the roof, you can install this in less than 1 hour. And they have excellent USA-based technical support!

Just a note: SoftStartRV or any other amp reduction product on the market will not make your roof air conditioner run more efficiently during normal operation. It is just during the initial start-up which has a high amp draw.

Check out the video and get a $30 discount through the RV Repair Club here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Adam H. ~“We had a tire blowout.  I want to thank the staff at Coach-Net for their quick response in finding an excellent tire shop with the correct size and brand very quickly. Communication with Coach-Net, the tire shop and us was excellent.  A bad day turned out pretty well as we were back on the road very quickly thanks to your help!”

Summer Plumbing And Fresh Water Tips

06 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

As the dog days of summer approach, it is important to take a few precautions when it comes to your freshwater tanks, plumbing fixtures, and staying hydrated yourself!

Most RVers understand the issues with water in tanks and pipes when RVing in below-freezing weather however they don’t realize the issues when it comes to really hot temperatures.  

Fresh Water In Tanks And Pipes

Typically the water you use in your RV is going to be hard water coming from the campground source. This water is not treated and can contain minerals and even some harmful components. Even though campgrounds are required to have the well water tested once a year, it doesn’t guarantee the water is good all year round! According to the CDC, hot weather and extreme drought can lower water levels in the wells and cause contamination. I am a firm believer in testing the water from the campground source prior to hooking it up to your rig. A simple tester is this Intellitec version that will tell you the particles per million which doesn’t tell exactly what is in the water, just the level of acceptable particles.

Essentially, it measures continuity as the cleaner the water, the less continuity between the probes. It is also a good indicator that it is time to change your filter as there are more minerals present when the filter is not working properly.

To get more specific about what is in the water, you can purchase a kit that will test over 20 different minerals, PH levels, and even arsenic.

These are simple tests that use a test strip and can even tell the hardness and alkalinity of the well water.

Always Use A Filter

Even if the water is testing ok, I still recommend a filter to keep calcium, lime, and rust out of your water system. These can clog the in-line screen to your water pump, get particles in the diaphragm of your water pump, and clog up faucets and shower heads.

There are several types such as this in-line filter or even the residential version you can find at a home improvement store. I like this Omni version as you can replace the cartridge for a few dollars rather than the entire cartridge like the in-line version.

If you really want to get fancy and go over the top in water quality, you can get a multi-canister system that will even filter bacteria and then add a water softener!

I would also recommend a water pressure regulator as some well pumps could have a higher pressure than your plumbing lines or fittings can handle!

Use an approved fresh water drinking hose

You want to use a connecting hose that is approved for “Potable” or fresh water as a typical garden hose will have not only a bad taste but when left out in the heat, can actually transfer chemicals from the rubber and plastics used into the water.

Don’t leave water in the RV during storage

If you are not going to use your rig for over 2 weeks in extreme heat, it is a good idea to drain all the water out of the freshwater tanks, water heater, lines, and refrigerator ice maker. Basically, winterize it by blowing out all the water. The hot weather will raise the temperature of the hard water and could be an incubator for bacteria and other pathogens unless the temperature reaches the boiling point of 212 degrees which will then sanitize the water. That will probably not happen even on the hottest days in Death Valley!

Drain, flush, and drain your holding tanks

Make sure both the black and gray water tanks have been drained, thoroughly flushed, and re-drained several times to ensure there is nothing that can grow in the tanks. I recommend using Tank Blaster in the black water tank and dumping/draining it. Then plug or cover all drains to sinks, showers, and toilets as there could be standing water in the “P” traps or other areas.

Do not leave any personal water containers sitting outside

If you carry fresh water in gallon jugs or larger jugs or have a case of individual water bottles, it’s not uncommon to store these under the rig when you get to camp as they can take up a lot of room inside when you want to be RVing. During extreme heat, the plastic can give off toxic components that will mix in with the water. Make sure if you do keep them outside they are in the shade at all times and do not get over 90 degrees.

Keep Hydrated

Probably the best tip is to make sure everyone gets enough water during the summer and extreme heat, especially the kids and pets. Metal pet bowls can get very hot in the sun so keep them in the shade and replenish the water often.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Karl P. ~ “Kurt from Quality Tire was exceptional. He came and pulled both sets of back tires. The inside tires on both sides of our motor home had 0 pressure. Both Valve stems had been damaged for some reason. He replaced the valve stems on both tires and checked and filled all 6 tires to correct pressure. He was a pleasant and pleasurable person to work with. We were called by Coach-Net several times to make sure everything went as it was supposed to. Thank you to all the Coach-Net Representatives and to Kurt from Quality tire. It took something that was a pain and made it a pleasure.”

8 Important Tire Safety Tips Every RVer Should Know

06 Wednesday Jul 2022

Posted by in RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

Obviously, staying safe while driving your RV down the road is of the utmost importance. Keeping your roadside assistance is one great way to go about this, and knowing how to properly load and tow your rig is also imperative.

Another super key part of towing or driving your RV safely? RV tire safety.

Clearly, nobody wants to have a tire blowout in any vehicle. That said, having one of your RV tires blow could be a disaster. Therefore, it’s definitely a good idea to buy the best tires possible for your rig and keep those RV tires in tip-top shape.

Not sure where to begin when it comes to RV tire safety? We’re here to help. Using the tips below will help you stay safe during travel so you can fully enjoy your destinations.

Purchase the Right Tire Type

First and foremost, you’ll want to make sure you know the type of tire you require. First, check the tire size stamped on the sidewall of your current tires. Knowing the difference between LT and ST tires is also a good idea, and having a good understanding of the weight of your rig and what certain tires can handle will be helpful in choosing the right set of tires.

If you feel unsure, discuss options with a knowledgeable tire salesperson before making a final decision.

Buy a Spare

When purchasing a new set of RV tires, be sure to replace the spare too. It can be tempting to skip out on buying a new spare tire, but one day in the future when you need your spare, you will definitely be thankful to have one you know you can rely on.

Check the Date of Manufacture

Before purchasing tires, check the sidewalls for the date stamp to learn when the tires were made. Generally, tires should be replaced six years after the date of manufacture, regardless of how much they have been used. If the tires being sold to you are more than a year old, insist on having newer tires put on. Additionally, it’s important to make a note of when your tires will expire so you can have them replaced before then.

Inflate Properly

Proper tire inflation can make all the difference in the world. It can completely change how your RV drives, and it can change how your tires wear and how long they last. Keep an eye on your tire inflation and adjust it before every trip in the RV.

Get an Alignment

Poor alignment on a motorhome can wreak havoc on your RV tires. Be sure your motorhome is properly aligned before putting on a new set of tires in order to avoid uneven wear. This will also help ensure your tires last as long as possible.

Cover Tires in Storage

Believe it or not, sitting still can also damage your tires. If you store your RV outside, be sure to cover the tires to protect them from the intense rays of the sun. After pulling your RV out of storage, check your tires for damage before heading out on a trip.

Inspect Tires During Walkarounds

A walk around the outside of your rig before every RV trip is essential to ensure you’re safe on the road. These walkarounds should always include a look at each of your RV tires. Be sure to check for chipping, uneven wear, splitting, or other signs of damage.

Invest in a TPMS

Last but not least, we highly recommend investing in a good tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). An RV TPMS will warn you if a tire is losing air so you can pull over before a bigger problem arises. Just be sure the system you purchase is compatible with your rig.

As you can see, there are many things you can do to ensure your RV tires are as safe as possible. Of course, there is no guaranteed way to prevent all issues. Therefore, RV roadside assistance remains incredibly important to have.

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

Ken H. ~ “We’ve been with Coach-Net for over 9 years, and every time we have needed them, they have come through for us! Everyone from the call agents to the tow provider is always friendly, quick, and professional!”

6 Things That Need to Be Maintained on an RV

15 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in RV Information, RV Newbie, RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

Owning an RV is a fantastic investment for outdoorsy people and families. If you own an RV, you can spontaneously hit the road and travel anywhere at any time! Plus, you’re more likely to go camping and enjoy the Great Outdoors if you have an RV sitting outside.

Importance of Maintenance Checks for RV

Before you embark on your next road trip, it is essential to check that your RV is safe to drive. The maintenance of any vehicle is vital to help prevent breakdowns, safety problems, or costly headaches. After all, purchasing an RV is certainly not cheap! 

To learn more about the importance of routine maintenance, check out these tips to alleviate financial stress.

How Often Should I Perform RV Maintenance? 

The frequency of maintenance for your RV will depend on how often you use it and what type of maintenance is performed. In general, some maintenance should be performed annually, while other things can be left for a quick check-up before you use your RV.  

Things to Maintain on your RV

1. Tires

The whole point of an RV is to drive it. As such, your RV’s tires are likely to be prone to wear and tear. Just like a car or any other vehicle, tire maintenance is essential for safety. Before you embark on your next RV adventure, perform a visual inspection of the tires. Look for uneven tread wear, low pressure, or visible problems. It is a good idea to invest in a tire pressure gauge in case your tire pressure gets wonky on the road. For more information on tire care, check out our previous blog here.

2. Batteries & Lights

Your RV’s batteries must be maintained in the same way as any other vehicle. Most batteries will last between three to five years but should be checked regularly, as failure and malfunctions may occur. Proper RV battery maintenance also includes appropriate storage during the cold winter months. When not using your RV, take out the battery and store it in a warm place. This will help ensure it won’t freeze or break, which can void the battery warranty.

For safety purposes, all of your RV’s lights must be working correctly, including the high beams, brake lights, fog lamps, and turn signals. This will help make sure you’re safe on the road, as well as for the protection of other drivers you share the road with.

3. Oil and Oil Filters

Oil changes on a regular schedule are essential to ensure your engine runs smoothly. Without oil changes, your engine could be damaged, leading to costly problems or repairs. Your RV’s owner manual should tell you how frequently (in mileage) the manufacturer recommends oil changes and if you should be using synthetic oil.

Looking for more ways to save money on your car and RV needs? Find the best car insurance here.

4. RV Generator

An RV generator works to provide electricity to appliances and equipment in your RV. When your RV is not used, it is important to periodically run the generator to prevent build-up on the carburetor. Experts recommend having your RV generator professionally serviced once per year. Each month, you should aim to run your generator for at least two hours at 50% load each time.

5. Sewer System

Using biodegradable RV toilet paper will help protect your sewer system in your RV. Clearing the holding tank regularly is also crucial in regular maintenance, preventing unwanted backups. 

6. Roof of your RV

Often, RV owners neglect roof maintenance. Inspecting the roof seams and seals at least twice per year is essential. As you examine your RV’s roof, you may wish to apply a sealant layer on top, preventing and protecting against water damage which can lead to expensive repairs.

RV Roadside Assistance

Worried about breaking down on the side of the road? Consider adding RV roadside assistance to help protect yourself. Coach-Net offers 24/7 RV technical and roadside assistance, tire and wheel protection, and many other amazing benefits to help you feel confident and assured on your trip.

Planning your next RV adventure but not sure where to go? Check out this ultimate RV trips guide to inspire your next adventure. Whether you’re looking for a short trip or a cross-country vacation, these top ten road trip circuits provide great inspiration.

Author: Tim Setterfield

RV Protect

Thomas Z. ~ “Kudos to Coach-Net! I served the Northeast Area of another roadside company for over 12 years including President & National VP. I recommend Coach-Net over all the others every time. Outstanding company 🔥💥”

Brake, Bearing, and Axle Maintenance

08 Wednesday Jun 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

The RV season is fast approaching and for many, it’s already here so it’s time to talk about brakes, bearings, and axle maintenance. Although there is not a lot of maintenance that is required, it is important to do periodic inspections to know what is happening to the brakes and inside the hubs and there are different procedures depending on your type of RV such as a trailer vs motorized.

Trailer Brakes

Typically trailers will have electric brakes designed into the hub of the axle that is activated by a brake controller inside the tow vehicle as the brake pedal is applied. Most larger trucks will have a brake controller built into the dash and electrical system while smaller units will need one installed.

Trailer brakes should be visually checked at least once a year and spring is a good time. Most trailer brakes will have a magnet and brake pads that push against the drum.

First, inspect the brake pad to ensure there is enough material still available to stop the rig. Most axle manufacturers such as Dexter recommend replacing the shoes if they are less than 1/16th of an inch thick. At the same time, the drum surface should be inspected for scratches or grooves.

If there are slight grooves, the drums can be “turned” which is a process of grinding or cutting the metal smooth however, this can only be done to a certain thickness and needs to be done by a professional.

This whole process requires some DIY ability, tools, and a place to work on it and the average RVer will probably just take it into a service center. Check out the video at RV Repair Club to determine if you want to tackle this yourself here.

What you can do on a regular basis is check the braking resistance and manually apply the trailer brakes with the brake controller a few times a year. Start by driving with the trailer connected at a speed of 10 mph in a parking lot and apply the brake controller manually without pressing the tow vehicle brake. You should feel resistance and the higher you set the controller, the more resistance.

If you do not feel a resistance, you can check to see if there is electrical power getting to the magnet in the hub. This can be done with a multimeter or expensive break force meter but a simple test is to use a compass placed next to the hub, apply the brake of the tow vehicle as it is connected to the trailer, and watch for the compass to spin. If the magnet is energized, the compass will go wild. If not, there is no power going to the magnet.

Bearings

Over the years there have been great changes in the bearings used in trailers as well as the way we lubricate them. Dexter has a great product called EZ Lube with a grease fitting on the outside that channels grease through the shaft to the inner bearing and pushes it through to the outer bearing. This applies new grease and pushes out any contaminated or overheated grease. However, they do still recommend repacking the bearing every 12 months or 12,000 miles.

The main thing to remember is, as the wheels turn going down the road, the bearings are exposed to extreme heat and friction and they must be lubricated no matter what type you have. Periodic inspection is a must and a good practice is to use an infrared temperature sensor to check the temperature occasionally to know what is happening behind the hub.

It is not uncommon to see 20-30 degrees higher temperatures than ambient however if there is a spike you know the bearings are starting to get dry and need to have them looked at before needing to have them replaced on the side of the road!

Axle Maintenance

There is virtually no maintenance needed on a trailer axle however, there are a few important weight considerations and jacking procedures. Axles have specific weight ratings termed Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) which is the maximum weight that should be on an individual axle. It’s important to have your rig weighed to ensure you are not exceeding the GAWR or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Otherwise, the excess weight can make the axle bend and cause issues with tire wear and braking.

Most axle manufacturers do not recommend placing a jack on the axle or braces to fix or replace a tire as it could bend the axle. RV manufacturers have specified jack points on the frame for this purpose.

Tow Vehicles

Most trucks today have sealed bearings that can not be lubricated or visually inspected, but rather need to be replaced when they start to grind. Typically this is at a very high mileage. Over the past 5 trucks, I have had, I only replaced one bearing assembly with approximately 140,000 miles. You do however need to check the brakes occasionally and there are quite a few opinions on how often. Some say every 6 months while others say at every oil change. I typically like to check the brakes when I rotate the tires at approximately 5,000 miles. It all depends on the amount of driving/towing and the weight or severity of braking.

Most tow vehicle brake systems have a wear indicator that will start to squeal as the pads get low. You can also see an accumulation of brown brake pad dust on the rim. Less than ¼” of pad is typically when they should be replaced and inspect the rotor for grooves.

Most truck manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid every 3 years as condensation can build up in the system. This is not an easy procedure and I have been using this tool for several years to determine the moisture level and quality of brake fluid.

Motorhome Brakes

Motorized vehicles utilize a hydraulic fluid braking system that pushes the brake fluid through tubes to extend the brake pads to the rotors at the individual wheel positions. Larger units such as “Diesel Pushers” have air braking systems. It is important to inspect the pads for appropriate and safe thickness yearly.

Most chassis manufacturers recommend checking the braking system once a year and as you can see, not an easy DIY job! Also, most larger chassis manufacturers such as the Class A gas and diesel models do not recommend rotating tires unless there is extensive wear on one so annually is a better schedule.

These also have sealed bearings so there is no inspection or lubrication recommendation for them.

Check your chassis manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule for specific details regarding your brakes and bearings.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Jason H. ~ “Dispatch was quick, polite, & fearless. He not only changed my tire, but he also climbed under the trailer to make sure I didn’t have any damage to electrical lines from the blowout. Great experience!”

Considering Lithium RV Batteries? | Part 2

04 Wednesday May 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, , , , ,

In part one we discussed the difference between lead-acid, AGM, and Lithium batteries. Since then I have talked with our technical department and asked “how do you know if the lithium battery you are considering is good quality? They indicated that “lithium” is the new hot button in the RV industry and they are flying off the shelves. Many “opportunistic” companies are doing a “lick & stick” (his words exactly) by purchasing cheap overseas lithium and putting their sticker name on it. Many of these have prismatic and palmer cells that can not withstand the vibration and bouncing the typical RV encounters as well as temperature changes. This creates connectivity issues and produces thermal events.

Quality lithium batteries use cylindrical cells for the internal pack and protect them with molded ribs instead of foam filler. Also, the connection between these cells is best with mechanical connection rather than solder which is cheaper but is not as stable.

So how do you know? First, look for the UL listing and the file number. Then ask for an exploded view and description of the interior of the battery! If they can’t provide it, chances are the components are sub-par!

Then I asked; “What else should we look for in Lithium Batteries for an RV?” The answer was a good Battery Management System or BMS built into the battery. A BMS monitors the cells within the battery and keeps them from operating in an unsafe condition due to overcharging or undercharging. It can detect any shorts in the connections and balance the charge in each individual cell. If it does find an issue, it will shut the battery down before any damage can occur. This is especially important if your charger has a bulk charge stage or if you’re trying to get that last bit of sunlight in your solar panel charging system.

Temperature Is Important

The BMS will also monitor the temperature to make sure the battery either shuts down during extreme high and low temperatures or controls fans or heaters that could be part of the system. Extreme high temperatures can cause thermal runaway and charging a Lithium Battery at below-freezing temperatures will ruin the battery. The BMS will shut down the battery if it is not equipped with a cooling fan or heater. A quality Lithium Battery will either have an internal heater or heat pad/blanket that the BMS will activate when needed.

Now that we know what to look for in a quality Lithium Battery, there is more information you need to consider before jumping into the Lithium world! In Part 1 we talked about the WFCO converter that was used in the RV and how it only provided a 13.6-volt charge however you need to research what converter/charger or inverter/charger you have and how it operates. Most Lithium Batteries want 14.6-volts for charging and can be charged much faster than the typical lead-acid batteries. If your converter only provides 13.6-volts it will take longer to charge and will not charge 100% so you lose about 35% of what you paid for. Even worse, if you have a multi-stage charger it will start the bulk charge at 16-volts to break up sulfation in the lead-acid battery and then go to a float and equalizing charge. 16-volts will ruin a Lithium Battery unless it has a BMS in which case it will shut down and won’t charge!

One option is to install an upgrade to your converter such as the Progressive Dynamics 4655CSV model. This runs approximately $250 but is well worth it to get 100% out of your Lithium Battery.

If your converter, inverter, or solar charger is not putting out 14.6-volts I would recommend you consider upgrading the charger, lead-acid, or AGM. I did speak to a representative at Magnatek which is owned by Parallel Power Supply and they are using a stand-alone converter that puts out 13.8-volts and recommending it for use with Lithium. If you have a larger diesel pusher model and/or a residential refrigerator chances are you have a larger inverter that is also a battery charger and need to verify what voltage it is providing. Most newer models have a setting for Lithium.

DC To DC Charger

If your rig has the capability to provide a charge from the engine battery whether it’s a tow vehicle pulling a trailer with the 7-pin connection or a motorhome through the Battery Isolation Management solenoid (BIM) your alternator could potentially provide over 225 amps such as the case with a Mercedes model. This would require a DC to DC Charger that will regulate the amps. Battery Born recommends the Victron and Mike Sokol of The No Shock Zone recommends the Redarc model.

The Advantage Of Lithium Batteries

The biggest advantage of Lithium Batteries in my opinion is they do not sulfate and do not require much maintenance. Yes, the cost can be 5 times as much, however, the average lead-acid battery lasts about 2-3 years unless it is maintained religiously then it could last up to 4-5 years. The average Lithium Battery will last 8-10 years, so if you plan to keep your rig for more than 5 years, it will most likely cost about the same, however, you get all the other advantages.

A Lithium Battery can be drawn down to almost 100% vs a lead-acid battery at only about 50% and it will charge up about 5 times as fast so you get longer battery usage when dry camping and faster recharging so you don’t have to run the generator all day or worry about only getting a few hours of sun with a solar charging system.

Lithium Batteries are about ½ the weight of lead-acid batteries and you get the same amp hours out of one 100-amp hour Lithium vs two lead-acid batteries. So the Lithium Battery is lighter and takes up ½ the room in a compartment or on the tongue of your trailer.

Once you review all the information and what type of charging system you have, you can now decide if Lithium is the right choice for you and worth the money.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Rosita J. ~ “Coach-Net agents always ask at beginning of a conversation if you are in a safe place…that is awesome! Every agent we have dealt with has been attentive, patient, friendly, and quick to make note of the issue. Within minutes they were connecting us to a technician who talked us through fixing our problem. We are extremely satisfied with Coach-Net’s services.”

 

Considering Lithium RV Batteries?

06 Wednesday Apr 2022

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

, , , , ,

Over the past few years, I’ve written several articles about deep cycle batteries such as “RV Battery Types and The Power They Provide” in May of 2018, “Choosing The Right Battery For Your RV” in October 2020, and others along the way.

For the past 6 months, RV shows have started back up and I have been conducting seminars again and it seems that Lithium batteries are the rage! I would guess mostly due to the fact that the lead-acid batteries used in most of the new rigs for the past 20 years have been failing miserably in just a couple years. I ask attendees at the seminars about who has changed batteries every 3 years and once in a great while I’ll find an owner that has had the same batteries for over 3 years! Mostly because he has a multi-stage charger in his rig and they have not sulfated.

Is Lithium Worth The Money?

This is the most important question to ask yourself when it comes to upgrading to Lithium batteries and it really depends on how much dry camping you are planning to do and how long. A good friend of mine just bought a motorhome that has two Interstate batteries that will not hold a charge and had not been maintained very well if at all.

As you can see, the batteries are bloated, there is corrosion at the terminals, and a rat’s nest of wiring. These batteries are also 6-volt batteries as they only have 3 cells and so they are connected in series which means the positive cable of one battery is connected to the negative battery of the second battery which gives a 12-volt “bank”. This is not original equipment, rather someone that obviously did not maintain his batteries very well and when the original set went bad, they ran to an interstate distributor who set them up with these. I did a little research and this rig has a WFCO converter which is the charger and it provides a 13.6-volt charge when the battery is drained to 50% capacity and drops to a 13.2-volt maintenance charge when the batteries get to 12.6-volts. This will do nothing to break up the sulfur that will coat the plates during normal operation so it will get thicker and thicker with every cycle and eventually look like this. I also find it ironic that the fill caps have the quick-flick bar as I call it so you can just pinch the two bars together and take all three caps off at once. The problem is…the batteries have little or no water/acid so it was a waste of product!

The first question I asked was; “How often do you plan to boondock or dry camp?” Then I had to explain what that meant as he is really new! “How often are you going to camp where you will not have shoreline power to plug into so you can recharge your batteries?” “Never” was his answer, so buying a $1000 Lithium battery would be a waste of money! In his situation, a good set of Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries would be the best as they require little maintenance and are not as affected by sulfation. He could get by with just one 12-volt deep cycle that would give him 100 amp hours but then since the Flooded Lead Acid batteries can only be drawn down about 50% he might want to go with two 12-volt FLA batteries just in case he wants to tailgate at a football game. The two 6-volt batteries that are currently in there only increase the voltage when connected in series, not the amp hours so he would need to go with four 6-volts instead. There are several advantages of 6-volt batteries that were covered in the previous articles, mostly longevity in cycles and years of use.

The History Of Lithium Batteries

Lithium batteries have been available for over 40 years and there is still some concern from owners about their safety. You hear stories about them catching on fire and even have to take them out of suitcases in checked luggage when flying. The Lithium batteries that are available for the RV market are not the same type, rather Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFEPO4, and are very safe. Initially, these batteries were too expensive for the RV market but new technology and completion have brought the price down to a more manageable level if you consider $1000 manageable? However, the value of this type of battery price compared to FLA or AGM is a Lithium battery can last 3-5,000 cycles at which time it has a 75% capacity and can outperform the others for 10 or more years.

You Get What You Pay For!

This is so true in so many products and especially Lithium Batteries. I talked with several different manufacturers such as Go Power, Renogy, and a new one called Expion 360. For the past 7-8 years I have been working with Zamp Solar out of Bend OR with my seminars at shows and videos on RV Repair Club. I believe they make some of the best quality solar panels on the market and are rugged enough to withstand the brutal wear and tear of RV use. John Yozamp is the original founder of Zamp Solar and was an avid camper frustrated with poor-quality solar panels. I won’t bore you with all the quality details, however, he sold Zamp and has started another company to supply a superior Lithium battery to the market…Expion 360. I talked with John and their technical department and there are so many cut-rate batteries flooding the market that will not stand up to RV use. Many are made for the solar explosion in the residential and industrial market and the batteries are housed in a climate-controlled room and never move. These are made of thinner plastic, cells are divided by paper board or foam, and connections are soldered, all of which will not last in an RV.

And there is so much more. In part 2 we will discuss the importance of a smart Battery Management System incorporated into the actual battery, cold weather charging issues, and if your converter will properly charge a Lithium battery or ruin it!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Thomas Z. ~ “Unbelievable service, and from the time we called in till he showed up 40 minutes. Super! Follow-up calls. Excellent experience. Kudos to Coach-Net”

De-Winterizing Your Rig

02 Wednesday Mar 2022

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

, , , ,

RV Shows are back on this spring and attendance is record-breaking! I conduct seminars at RV shows around the country and what I have experienced is the excitement of RVers of all types wanting to get out and use their rigs. Some are looking to buy for the first time while others are seasoned veterans and itching to pull the covers off their sleeping beauties!

There have been several articles written about the steps to bring your RV out of storage and de-winterizing them. However, it is always a good idea to refresh your memory to make sure you look at all aspects of the rig and a few new tips on some of the new materials and appliances being used in RVs today.

Let’s start with the 120-volt/LP water heater. Hopefully, you drained all the water out last fall before putting it to bed. If so, you must fill the tank with water before turning the unit on, or it will burn out the heating element and ruin the water heater. BUT…before you fill it with water, now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning. If you look at the drain plug on your water heater, you will see it is not at the very bottom of the tank, rather an inch or more up the side which means you probably did not get all the water out. The small amount of water will not do any damage as it freezes, however, it is probably getting very “murky” and full of lime and calcium. Most owners do not realize this and every year the sediment gets thicker and thicker until it gets so thick it insulates the water from the heating element and does not run efficiently. It is a good idea to flush out all the sediment with a flush tool such as this one available on Amazon here.

Check All Sealants And Condition The Roof

The drastic temperature changes throughout the winter and spring can be rough on sealants and materials that are a vital part of keeping moisture out of your rig. Your roof material is most likely either a rubber component or fiberglass. Rubber material such as EPDM and TPO needs to be cleaned periodically and conditioned. Cleaning can be done with mild dish soap such as Dawn (Blue) and water with a soft bristle brush or broom. I would not recommend a pressure washer and you can literally peel the membrane away from sealants or openings. Conditioning depends on the type of material however DiCor has conditioners that are recommended by most membrane manufacturers. Alpha Systems recommends just cleaning with Murphy Soap and the new PVC-type membranes just recommend cleaning and no conditioning.

It is also important to visually inspect all sealants from top to bottom. Most manufacturers use a self-leveling sealant at the roof to front cap joint, sidewall to the roof, and around anything mounted to the roof. As the temperature changes, the materials expand and contract which means the sealants will do the same. If they get brittle due to exposure to the sun and elements, they will crack and must either have additional sealant added or remove the old sealant and reseal. Keep in mind you must use a sealant that is designed for your type of roof material or hard-front fiberglass cap! Standard residential silicone typically will not adhere to this type of material and will not seal. Check with your manufacturer or Dicor to get the correct product.

Another seal that is often overlooked is the rubber bulb and flap seal of slide rooms. The longer this is exposed to the sun and elements, the dryer the material gets and less chance of sealing.

There are several products that claim to be slide seal lubricants, however, I like 303 Protectant or ProtectAll All-purpose conditioners as they have UV protection built-in and actually condition the rubber material.

While you are conditioning the seals, inspect the top to make sure the seal has not been damaged by retracting the room with debris on the top? And check underneath to make sure the rollers are in good working order.

Sometimes the room can get out of alignment and not seal properly. Check the inside to make sure no moisture was able to penetrate at the corners which would lead to a soft floor and eventual expensive repairs.

A few years ago one of our local owners uncovered his rig for the spring, plugged it in, went inside to turn on the roof AC and it started “snowing”! A squirrel had worked its way under the cover and made a nest in the white insulation of the fan housing. After chewing most of the beaded insulation, it blew through the ductwork and created quite a mess. We were able to replace the insulation but it took a long time to clean out all the ductwork. What a mess, so make sure you inspect everything for “critters”. This is the unit before we uncovered the damage.

Tires

Tires are the most vulnerable component on an RV and typically the most neglected. It’s not uncommon for tires to lose pressure when just sitting and especially sitting for several months without being checked. Check the pressure and the sidewall for weather checking to help reduce tire failure further down the road. Spring is also a good time to have the bearings repacked and brakes checked on trailers. Most axle manufacturers recommend once a year. Even bearings with easy grease applications recommend inspection and repacking every year. Check with your axle manufacturer which is typically Dexter or Lippert.

LP System

I like to check the LP system in the spring when I bring my unit out of storage. This can be done with a water column test which is a little technical or with a simple tool available on Amazon. I use this tester at all the appliances to verify there are no leaks. You can also use an LP leak test solution but it takes much longer to test every connection. Do not use soap and water as the soap can damage components in the connections.

When opening the LP container valve, do it slowly as there is an excess flow valve that will shut down the flow if opened rapidly. This can take several minutes to reset as the backflow needs to bring the pressure down.

Another maintenance item I perform during de-winterization is the cleaning and inspecting the back of the absorption refrigerator. Remove the exterior vent and you will see the LP supply line, spark ignitor, burner tube, and cooling unit. Use an air compressor and blow off all the dust and clean the soot that forms in the burner assembly and flue. Make sure you have safety glasses as this can be a mess!

If your rig has a refrigerator vent on the roof, remove the cap and make sure the rectangular vent with a screen covering it is clean so it does not restrict the hot air from venting out.

Then I use a dollar bill and place it between the refrigerator door and cabinet, close the door and see what type of resistance I get. If the dollar pulls out easily, your door is not getting a good seal and warm moist air can get inside and cause excessive frosting or insufficient cooling. It’s not uncommon for the door to settle while banging it down the road and might need to be adjusted or shimmed.

Make a checklist

Just like your pre-departure checklist, it is a good idea to customize one for your rig to bring it out in the spring and not leave anything to memory. Conducting a thorough inspection and proper maintenance can help reduce failures and deterioration of materials down the road.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Peter B. ~ “Took my information and connected me to a technician within 5 minutes. Very reassuring to have the ability to get quick answers to technical questions.” 

How Routine Maintenance Checks Help Alleviate Financial Stress

08 Tuesday Feb 2022

Posted by in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

, , , ,

It should be a given, right? 

Whether you’re buying your first RV or owning one for years, it’s a well-known fact that motorhomes, or any vehicle for that matter, require maintenance.

Unfortunately, the basic checks that stop an RV from breaking down on you during your family road trip are often overlooked. 

It’s surprising how such little effort put into maintenance can affect the vehicle long term. That’s not to mention what it can do to your bank balance. 

Let’s jump in and take a look at what some of these basic checks are and why they can alleviate financial stress… 

What Should a Routine Maintenance Check Include For An RV? 

These simple but crucial checks will help your motor home run smoothly and be less likely to leave you stranded roadside. 

Tires 

The first thing you should always check is your tires. Specifically, check the air pressure. 

Make sure all tires are full to the required air pressure (PSI). This can easily be done at most gas stations and will usually only cost a few cents. 

This seems obvious, but it’s surprising how often owners don’t do this. Driving an RV with low air pressure can not only damage the wheel itself but also ruin the whole axle of the vehicle. 

Yep, skipping this super basic check can have massive implications… 

Electrical 

When you’re on a big trip with your family, you’re going to want to check the electrics and make sure they’re working properly. 

The last thing you want is to be left unable to charge any devices or use appliances—especially the kid’s iPads—on those longer drives. 

Water and Waste 

Water and waste are two essentials, especially over long distances and camping with little to no facilities. 

If you’re using a self-contained vehicle, check all your water tanks are full and all the necessary pumps work. 

The same goes for your waste tank. Check the tank itself is all in order and that the pipes/system works well. 

The very last thing you want is for a small crack or disconnected pipe to leak. You don’t need me to tell you why that would be bad… 

Vehicle Fluids 

Like humans, vehicles need fluids to run smoothly. 

Check the water level of your rig and ensure there’s enough coolant. There’s nothing worse than an overheated RV in the middle of nowhere just because you forgot to top up the water and add coolant. 

Lights 

Another essential. For long drives (particularly at night) you’re going to want strong lights that work well. It’s not just your headlights that are going to help keep you and other road users safe, either. It’s your signaling lights and brake lights, too.

As well as this, working reversing lights will be massively handy if you’re pulling up to a back-in-site in pitch black dark. 

How Routine Checks Alleviate Financial Stress 

Now that we know some of the basic checks you need, let’s see why these are so important and how performing them can alleviate vehicle-related financial stress. 

Safety (For You and Others) 

When it comes to checking your RV’s all in working order, it’s not just about how safe your RV is and how much easier your trip will be. 

It’s other road users too! 

Having working lights, indicators, and, generally, a vehicle that works well makes the road safer for everyone. 

A vehicle that hasn’t been checked can not only be costly to repair, but also be dangerous to other road users. 

Surprise Breakdowns 

There’s nothing worse, right? 

You’re heading down the highway, music on, on the way to your annual family camping trip, only for the engine to start making strange noises. All of a sudden, you’ve gone from puttering down the road to chugging into the pullout unable to go any further. 

The initial worry of missing your family trip is then overtaken by worrying how much this breakdown is going to cost you! 

Taking proper care of your vehicle helps it run smoothly, efficiently and these sorts of situations are way less likely to happen. 

Vehicle Efficiency 

When you have clean oil, water topped up, correct coolant levels and a clean air filter, your rig runs more efficiently. 

It doesn’t matter if you’re driving a class A, B or C… having everything right (especially fluids) allows the engine to run as efficiently as possible. 

This can save you a ton of cash in the long run. Although savings might not be visible initially, this well-oiled, fluid-filled vehicle will squeeze in a lot more mileage for every time you fill the gas.

You can check your vehicle’s fuel efficiency by using one of the best OBD2 scanners. A small handheld device that checks your vehicle’s performance. 

Lower Value Depreciation  

If you don’t look after your RV, it goes without saying it will eventually lose value. 

All the wear and tear on a vehicle (and engine) that hasn’t been looked after and has been running inefficiently for years at a time is going to drastically lower its value if you were to sell it later. 

With vehicles already having the highest rates of value depreciation of pretty much anything you can buy in 2022, this can equate to thousands of dollars lost. 

So, there we go. 

Now you know exactly what you should be checking on your RV, this can either be regularly (perhaps twice or three times annually) and definitely before any lengthy trip. 

It’s also very clear how disregarding such basic and easy to perform checks can have a major effect on your finances. 

We hope this post will help to keep your RV running smoothly and alleviate any potential costs. 

Take the time to perform checks and if you want to take things seriously, choose an OBD2 scanner as well. 

Happy RV’ing.

Author: Tim Setterfield

M.N., Porter, TX ~ “I was very impressed that the service provider driver called me on my cell phone to let me know when he would arrive.  Very courteous and efficient.”

The “Gremlin” In Your House Battery System

02 Wednesday Feb 2022

Posted by in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

, , , , , ,

Remember the 1984 original release of the movie “Gremlins”? If not, according to Wikipedia:

“The term “gremlin”, denoting a mischievous creature that sabotages aircraft, originates in Royal Air Force (RAF) slang among the British pilots stationed in Malta, the Middle East, and India in the 1920s.”

I like to use the term “gremlin” to describe an intermittent incident, failure, or event that is difficult to explain.

There are several areas gremlins hide in an RV, the 12-volt electrical system, appliances, 120-volt electrical system, and even in roofs. And how about those annoying refrigerators that won’t cool efficiently only to hit 34 degrees sitting in the service bay! We’ve all experienced some type of gremlin in our RVs and it can be not only frustrating, but expensive. For this blog, we are going to focus on the gremlins that can plague our 12-volt electrical systems.

12-volt DC Deep Cycle Lead Acid Batteries

Lead acid batteries have been a frustration for years for RV owners and typically last about 2 years, however they should last 5-6 years. The deep cycle batteries in your house system are designed to be drained down to approximately 50% of their amp hour or power storage capacity and recharged either by a converter, inverter, or solar panels many times, or “cycles”. They are measured in amp hours which means the approximate amount of time they can provide power to 12-volt systems such as the lights, roof vents, water pump, and any appliance running on LP. Lead acid batteries can only be drawn down about 50% of their capacity so a Group 27 battery with 100 amp hours can only provide about 50 amp hours.

Lead acid batteries are simply storage devices for power and as that power is drawn out of the battery, sulfur attacks the lead plates and coats them. If this coating is not removed during the recharging process, it gets thicker and eventually limits the storage capacity.

Traditional converters that are part of the distribution center simply start the charging state at 13.6 volts and then reduce to 13.2 volts when the battery reaches 12.6 volts. This is the voltage that the battery will no longer accept a charge so it is a maintain state. 

This is a typical distribution center with the circuit breakers for 120-volt applications and the converter behind the grill at the right. This type of charge will not break up the sulfation and will limit the batteries chemical to electrical conversion. Sulfation can also occur when a battery is stored without a full charge during the winter as all batteries will experience a slight drain if not connected to a charging or maintenance system.

To properly charge a lead acid battery, your system needs a multistage charger that starts with a bulk or de-sulfation stage which is a high voltage charge that literally boils the acid and breaks up the sulfur. This also causes excess gassing and acid depletion. This means more maintenance is required on each cell. Chargers like the Progressive Dynamics models with Charge Wizard, inverters with chargers, and solar panels with charge controllers all have the multi-stage chargers that will properly charge and maintain a lead acid battery.

You can get more information on the Progressive Dynamics products here: www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard

The gremlin in this case is in the actual condition of the lead acid battery. If the battery is sulfated, it can be charged to 12.6 volts which is a fully charged lead acid battery, however it will drop fast and not provide the amp hours it was originally designed for. And it can not be accurately tested by local auto shop and service center equipment. According to my sources at Lifeline Battery, Trojan, and US Battery, the only way to truly test a batteries condition is to properly charge the battery and place it on a 25 amp load machine and verify how many hours it provides power which almost never happens! And I get this all the time, “I had the batteries checked by a technician and they are fine”, “The batteries are 12.6 volts so I know it’s not the battery”, “The batteries are only 6 months old and register 12.6 Volts so I know they are good”.

If an appliance such as the refrigerator or air conditioner has intermittent performance, the first gremlin I look for is 12-volt power. Yes, even though both of these run on 120-volt AC power, they require 12-volt DC power to run the control module, thermostat, and other components. If your batteries are sulfated, they can draw down fast and limit the DC supply to those components before the converter kicks in and starts to charge. The first thing I recommend when there is intermittent functions is to connect a portable charger to the house batteries to see if that eliminates the situation. Then you know it’s not the batteries and can dig deeper into the system.

I get many questions from readers that the system did not work while out camping only to bring it to a dealership and it works fine! What typically happens in this situation is while you are camping, there are several variables that affect the operation such as higher ambient temperatures that would make the roof air conditioner and refrigerator run more often drawing more power and sometimes at the same time. Other components will be used such as the interior lights, water pump, water heater, all of which come on at times you are not aware of and draw power. Then you take it to the dealer and they plug it into a good 30 amp service with nothing else on and the appliance works great. Next time you take it out, it doesn’t work again! One reader indicated they had an issue with a furnace and the service center actually pulled the unit out and bench tested it three times and it worked every time! This tells me that the unit is working fine and there is an issue with air flow restriction, temperature, or the house battery since the furnace was isolated on the bench?

That is why it is important to test in real world situations and always document everything being used.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Craig S. ~ “I am extremely pleased with the service I received. Your representative kept in constant contact with me to make sure everything was going as planned. I never felt like I was in this by myself. Thank you!!!!”