Category Archives: Tech Tips

RV Heater Types, Maintenance, & Troubleshooting

05 Wednesday Jan 2022

Posted by in RV Newbie, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Over the years we’ve seen more and more RV enthusiasts not putting their RVs away for the winter or even heading South for warmer temperatures, rather using their rigs for winter activities. I remember some chilly nights at -20 degrees in Fargo ND, a weeklong trip with my own personal “Ski Chalet” in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, and every February we drag out several motorhomes to use as “green rooms” for bands at the Winter Dance Party in Clear Lake IA!

Whatever your type of winter camping, making sure your furnace is operating at the utmost efficiency is important. Let’s take a look at the different types of heaters used in the RV Market:

RV Heater Types

Forced Air Ducted

For years, Suburban, Dometic, and Atwood Hyrdoflame were the main brands available and they all worked in a similar manner. The thermostat would be set to the desired temperature and when the ambient temperature inside the rig gets to that setting it would create a closed circuit and send the 12-volt power to the module board of the furnace calling for heat. The furnace would start the blower motor which exhausted any old air in the intake, burner assembly, and exhaust port. It also pushed air over the burner assembly to the vents drawing interior air for circulation. As the air flowed over the burner assembly it raised a sail switch in the round shroud and once this switch lifted high enough, it would create a close circuit sending 12-volt power back to the module board indicating there was enough airflow to open the gas valve and start the spark sequence. A forced-air–ducted vent furnace typically has an exterior mount and can only be accessed for service from the outside.

Once the burner was lit, air moving over the burner assembly was heated and distributed through the coach by either flexible ductwork under cabinets or under furniture or by a plenum under the floor to floor vents similar to a residential design.

Forced Air Direct Discharge

This design operated the same as the vented version but is used in smaller units without vents and the air is supplied directly from the vents on the furnace itself. It has a much more compact design and can be accessed from inside the rig.

Heat Pump

Another option for heat that has been a source of confusion for many RVers is a heat pump option that is labeled “Electric Heat” on a thermostat. Most heat pumps operate through the roof air conditioner and in simple terms, the unit runs backward and draws BTUs out of the outside air through the coils and evaporator to provide heat inside. These models only are efficient down to about 55 degrees outside temperatures and only supply mild supplemental heat from the 60-65 degree ambient temperature range. The confusing part is the label on the thermostat makes it look like it’s an electric heater that can be used any time you are plugged into shoreline power!

Almost every year I get a call from the group at the Winter Dance Party complaining the heaters don’t work in the units sitting outside as green rooms. In every case they ran the propane out using the forced air heater and switched it to “Elec Heat” and it just blows cold air. That’s because it is 0 degrees outside and there are NO available BTUs for the heat pump! However, it is a good source of free heat in that 55-65 degree range to top off the inside of your coach if you are plugged into shoreline power and not paying extra for it!

Heat Strip

Some roof air conditioners have a heat strip feature that does work on 120-volt power which heat a thin wired strip around the perimeter of the shroud inside the roof air conditioner, however, it is not typically enough to keep the rig warm.

In-Floor Heating Systems

Several models have been introduced over the years including Aqua Hot which has an onboard boiler that heats a liquid solution and routes it around the rig to heat the interior and water heater. I have also seen a few electrical versions of a wired-in-floor system using pads with coils but these are usually an aftermarket installation.

Making Your Forced Air Type More Efficient

There’s not a lot of maintenance required with forced air models either vented or non-vented however, there are things you need to understand to prevent issues.

Proper 12-volt House Battery Power

Even though they run on propane, your furnace needs at least 10.5 volts of DC power to the module board for it to open the gas valve and light. The deceiving part is the fan will run all the way down to 4-5 volts so it seems to have power, just won’t light? Most often the issue is a sulfated battery that can’t keep up even when plugged into shoreline power with all the other appliances running as it seems they are fully charged, but drop off fast if sulfated. I constantly get the question, my furnace will not run and my batteries are good? The only way you can tell your batteries are holding a full charge and providing the amp hours designed is to charge them properly, hook them up to a 24 amp draw machine, and count the hours! Since this is almost never done, hooking up a digital meter only tells you the current charge, not the efficiency. If the batteries are sulfated, they will start off at 12.6 volts but drop fast and a low battery will not provide the power needed to get the airflow out of the fan and raise the sail switch, therefore the gas valve will not open and the unit will not light. If your fan is running, but your furnace does not light, hook up a portable booster to verify it has enough power. If it still does not light, read on.

Low LP Pressure

All LP appliances need 11” of water column pressure to operate properly and this is provided by the regulator at the LP cylinder. If you know you have proper 12-volt power and hear the click of the gas valve opening and the spark trying to light and it does not light, the chance is you have low LP pressure. This can be tested at the furnace by a certified technician, or you can do a quick test by turning on a stove burner and watching the flame. It should be a steady blue one. Turn on a second and then a third and notice the flame. Then turn on another LP appliance such as a water heater or refrigerator and notice the flame. Sometimes appliances work fine for a while then stop. This could be a situation where it is the only appliance working and there is enough LP pressure and 12-volt power for one but when the water heater or refrigerator kicks on at the same time, there isn’t enough of one or the other? This little test will simulate several appliances drawing at the same time.

Sufficient Air Flow

Not only does the sail switch need to be raised at the fan motor shroud, but there must be good airflow out of the direct discharge as well as the vents. If you have rugs over the vents or anything blocking the airflow, it will create back up in the furnace could affect the sail switch but most likely create a rise in temperature building up and the high limit switch will shut the unit off. This is a temperature sensor at the far end of the burner assembly as a safety feature. Keep all vents open and free-flowing.

Maintenance

Even though I mentioned earlier there is very little maintenance required, it’s important to make sure there is good airflow in and out of the outside intake/exhaust vents as well as the interior air return. Spiders and mud daubers love propane and heat and will plug the holes needed to bring fresh air into the burner chamber and exhaust outside.

Make sure they are clean and the air is flowing freely. Sometimes it might be necessary to install a screen over the vent to prevent the build-up of foreign material! If your exhaust vent has an abundance of black soot or what looks like a potential extremely hot situation that has created a burned effect, get it looked at by a certified technician.

Also check inside to make sure there isn’t a build-up of pet hair, dust, or other items that can get drawn into the air return for proper circulation.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Jim G. ~ “The young lady who assisted us was very kind, she listened to our needs and passed along the specific RV information to the service provider. The service provider used was local to us and very good. The service was efficiently, safely, and expertly given.” 

RV Oven And Stove Top Maintenance and Troubleshooting

01 Wednesday Dec 2021

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When I was traveling full time in a Winnebago motorhome training dealers across the country, the stovetops and ovens were pretty simple and there were only a couple of models, Magic Chef, and Atwood. But just like everything else in the RV industry dozens of models have come and gone over the years and today, there are dozens of brands available such as Furrion, Recpro, Suburban, and Dometic which now owns Atwood which also owns Wedgewood, and many more.

A major shift in the industry that I have noticed in the past decade is the use of more residential appliances and furnishing especially since the slide rooms provide more space for the larger items such as residential refrigerators and electric stovetops and ovens although they take an enormous amount of electricity so the old propane models are still the majority that I have seen.

For this article, we will focus on the propane model stovetop and oven combination. The first step in any appliance maintenance and troubleshooting is to understand the operation and lighting sequence. Your main LP regulator at the LP container will reduce the pressure supplied to the rig to 11” of the water column. Most RV stovetops and ovens have an internal regulator that will reduce that down to 10” of water column to a manifold. This manifold has the control knob attached to it and in the case of the stovetop, delivers LP to the burner assembly. The rate of flame or temperature is regulated by the operator turning the knob to the desired height. In the case of the oven, the temperature is set at the knob and a thermostat regulates the flow of LP to the desired temperature to the burner tube.

The oven pilot must be lit before the burner assemble will light. Typically pressing the oven knob in will supply lp to the pilot assembly which must be lit manually and stay lit for at least 30 seconds until the flame reaches and heats the thermocoupler. This pushes a magnet in which is a safety feature in case the flame goes out. The thermostat senses temperature and some models have a temperature bulb in the back of the oven called a mini bulb. Once the thermocouple senses a flame, LP flows to the burner assembly and is lit by the pilot light. If the flame and the pilot light go out, the magnet drops and shut off LP to the oven. The thermostat senses temperature from the temperature bulb in the back of the oven.

For the stovetop, simply press in and turn the knob and turn the ignitor if your model has one, or manually light the burner with a long match or butane stick lighter. Keep in mind the burner assembly does not have a thermocoupler so the LP will continue to flow if the knob is open and there is no flame! I have leaned against a knob in units and smelled the distinct rotten egg smell in the past! Make sure the knob is in the off and locked position when not in use.

Stovetop Maintenance

Compared to other appliances, there is little maintenance required with an LP stovetop/oven combination other than keeping it clean. Some stovetop models have a sealed burner assembly which means the metal cover comes all the way around the burner so food can not spill over into the burner area. Periodically inspect the burner orifice to ensure nothing is spilled over and clogging which can affect performance or even start on fire.

Troubleshooting The Stove Top

If the stovetop will not light with the piezo or spark assist, verify there is LP coming to the burner by trying to light it manually with a butane lighter. If it lights, the piezo is either defective or has a cracked ceramic case which will send the spark through the crack rather than to the burner. Visually inspect the piezo for spark attempt.

If the burner does not light manually and has no LP flowing to the burner check another burner to verify LP flow. If there is LP flow to another burner, check the supply tube to the affected burner and clean. If not, check to make sure the knob is actually opening on the stovetop and the valve is on at the LP container. Often times there is an in-line shut-off valve to LP appliances that should also be checked. If all these steps are verified, check another LP appliance to verify the main regulator is working properly. If it is, there is an issue with the LP supply line to the stovetop. Some models have an air shutter that can be adjusted. Check with your owner’s manual. It is also a good idea to check connections for leaks with an approved LP leak solution. Do not use soap and water as some detergents can cause corrosion to the metal.

If the burner lights, but the flame is yellow and “jumping” the LP pressure is too high and needs to be tested and adjusted by a certified technician with a water column tester first at the stovetop regulator and then the main LP regulator at the container.

If the burner lights but the flame is too small, verify the knob is actually turning to the higher position first, then check for insufficient pressure again by a certified technician. If other burners are working correctly, clean the supply tube or replace the knob/valve.

Troubleshooting The Oven

If the pilot does not light, check for leaks at the pilot supply tube, check LP pressure at the oven regulator, and then the main LP container regulator. Inspect and clean the pilot assembly to ensure LP is flowing to the pilot. If the pilot lights but does not stay lit after 30 seconds verify the thermocoupler is positioned properly and the flame is reaching it.

If the pilot stays lit but the oven will not light, verify LP flow to the burner assembly and adjust the air shutter if applicable. Also, have LP pressure tested by a certified technician with a water column tester.

If the oven lights, but has low flame and low temperature, test LP pressure at the regulator and burner assembly. Low pressure at the burner assembly would indicate a valve not opening.

If the oven has low temperatures or uneven heat it may be as simple as poor air circulation inside the oven. There must be at least 1” space on all sides from items cooking inside the oven. There are also ventilation holes at the bottom that can get clogged with food drippings and must be cleaned out as well as the top vents. Do not cover the bottom of the racks with aluminum foil to catch drippings! Check your owner’s manual for specifics to your model.

Intermittent Operation of Both

If the stovetop and or oven work for a short period of time but then fail, it could either be insufficient LP pressure or low 12-volt power. This is what we call “gremlins” during troubleshooting as they sometimes can not be replicated in the service department! All LP appliances need 12-volt DC power to open gas valves and run the thermostats. This power is supplied by the deep cycle house batteries which are also supplying other appliances and items like lights and fans. If the batteries are sulfated or the converter/charger can not keep up, the battery bank drains down and will shut off the LP supply at the valve. Typically this only happens with the oven as it has the thermocoupler and thermostat.

If your main LP container regulator is getting weak, it might be able to supply enough pressure (11” WC) to the stovetop/oven regulator however if the water heater or refrigerator kicks in, the regulator might not be able to provide enough LP pressure to all the appliances? This would require using a pressure tester and turning on several appliances at once to verify proper pressure during extreme use situations.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Thomas P. ~ “Your agents were exceptional! Service was great from beginning to end!”

Winter RVing: Space Heaters And RVs

12 Friday Nov 2021

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Winter RVing can be a beautiful, quiet, and fantastic time to go camping. If you decide to go RVing in colder weather, you may find out just how good or not good most RV insulation is. Even with the furnace keeping your rig at a toasty temperature, place your hand on the wall of many RVs, and you will be able to feel the cold pressing in.

Due to this lack of thick insulation, it takes a ton of energy to keep an RV warm in the winter. RVers are faced with two energy choices in colder weather, electricity or propane. Rather than run out of propane quickly, many RVers attempt to forgo running their furnace to heat their rig with space heaters instead. Space heaters can be a great tool to supplement your RV furnace heating. However, there are some considerations and safety practices one should follow.

30 Amp RVs

The biggest issue with space heaters and RVs is the amount of power required to make them work. Your average fan or ceramic heater that you can pick up cheaply at big box stores has two settings. The low setting uses about 700 watts when running, and the high setting uses 1500 watts.

If your 30 amp RV tries to run more than 3,600 watts (or slightly less due to voltage variance among RV parks), it will start tripping breakers in your RV or at the power pedestal of the park. You can probably do the quick math to realize that a 30 amp rig simply can’t handle more than two space heaters on the high setting.

To add to that, your RV fridge and other electronics all pull power too, so running two space heaters day in and day out can push the system. Running an RV electrical system at its upper capacity, especially an older rig, can cause heat to build up in the wires posing a potential fire risk.

Bottom Line: If you plan to use a space heater in your 30 amp RV, it’s safest to limit it to one.

50 amp RVs

If your RV has a 50 amp system, you have a little more leeway as to how much you can run. Without going into a lot of details, a 50 amp rig has two 50 amp arms on its system. In other words, you have two 50 amp circuits in your rig totaling 12,000 possible running watts at 120 volts.

In theory, a 50 amp rig could handle about 6 or 7 space heaters and still run the other electrical appliances like the fridge, etc. Most RVers would stay comfortable in a moderately cold environment using just a couple of space heaters. A 50 amp RV can quite easily handle space heaters as a supplemental heat source from an electrical standpoint.

Other Electrical Concerns

Regardless of your RV’s electrical capacity, most RV plugs are wired to a 15 amp breaker. So let’s say your RV kitchen has four wall sockets on one breaker. You can only plug one space heater on high into any one of those sockets. If you plug in a second, that will start tripping the breaker as a 15 amp breaker can only handle 1,800 watts at 120 volts.

Another thing to consider is your power bill. If you stay at a park monthly that charges for electricity, running a 1500 watt space heater several hours a day will significantly increase your power bill. In other words, whether it be propane or electricity, it takes power to heat your rig, and someone must pay for that power.

Other Potential Problems

Close Quarters: In general, RVs are pretty small spaces, and it may be challenging to keep space heaters far enough away from flammable material like bedding and furniture to use them safely.

Frozen Pipes: Some RVs have enclosed underbellies and use some of the warm air from the propane RV furnace to keep the plumbing from freezing when winter RVing. Relying solely on space heaters in freezing temps could result in frozen pipes.

General Safety Concerns

In general, the safest heating method is to use the heat pump setting on your RV air conditioner (if equipped) when outdoor temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit and your RV’s propane furnace when it’s below 40 degrees. However, if you wish to supplement your heating with a space heater, following the tips below will result in the safest experience.

1. Buy the right size heater. There’s no need to have a heater intended to heat a warehouse in an RV.

2. Buy a space heater with covers or guards to prevent burns.

3. Make sure the heater is at least three feet from all objects.

4. Pets can easily knock them over, or children can get burned on them, so place space heaters out of their reach.

5. Never leave a space heater turned on when going to bed or leaving the room or RV.

6. Ensure your space heater has tip-over protection and overheat protection. These features will shut the heater off in the event of malfunction by tipping or getting too hot.

7. Only electric or vented fuel-fired heaters should be used. They do make small propane heaters that can be used inside, and there are also many stories of rigs going up in flames due to improper use or going to bed with them running.

8. Plug space heaters directly into an outlet. Don’t use extension cords or power strips. Almost ALL power strips are not wired to handle the load of a space heater.

9. Though the majority of this article concerns electrical space heaters, it should be mentioned that one should never use gas heaters intended for outdoor only use. This can result in carbon monoxide poisoning and death.

Stay Safe When Winter RVing

Winter RVing can be a fantastic experience, and you can find some good tips for a comfortable and safe experience on the Coach-Net ~ Travel and Adventure Blog. When it comes to any questions, concerns, safety information, or help, remember that your Coach-Net roadside assistance comes with  24/7 Protect.

Whether you need advice from an RV technician who can guide you through many common technical and operational issues or roadside and campsite assistance when you’re on the road away from home, our extensive provider network throughout the United States and Canada is available whenever and wherever you need it. Learn More

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and work camp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Gary E. ~ “Coach-Net is the resource we trust when mechanical surprises arise!”

Propane Saving Tips For Colder Weather RVing

03 Wednesday Nov 2021

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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As the colder end of fall approaches and winter starts arriving, an RV can be a very cozy camping option. However, keeping one warm can go through quite a bit of propane. So why does an RV propane heater use so much propane, and how can one make propane last as long as possible during their short-term or long-term winter RVing trips? Follow these propane-saving tips below to help you stay toasty in your rig and go easier on your wallet this winter.

How an RV Propane Furnace Works

Your RV’s propane furnace is a pretty simple device. Propane is burned to heat air which is forced through the ductwork of the floor by an electric fan. Openly burning propane in an enclosed space without ventilation is generally quite deadly due to carbon monoxide gas. For this reason, the propane in an RV furnace burns in a tube and heating element that vents directly outside your RV. The air in your RV is blown over the heating element to heat it.

This necessary ventilation carries as much as 30%-50% of the heat generated by burning propane and blows it outside. That means you need to burn up to twice as much fuel to get the same amount of BTUs worth of heat inside your rig as you would if you were just burning propane inside.

This may sound like a design flaw, but ventilation is necessary for the warm, dry, and safe air being blown throughout your RV. Even though you should have your propane system and furnace inspected periodically, there is no way to modify this efficiency. The best ways to save on propane involve keeping the heat in your RV as long as possible or using other safe methods to heat your rig.

1. Close Your Gaps

Check around slides, windows, doors, and any other potential gaps and close them off. You may find that some gaps need repairing, while other areas may just require you to add a bit of insulating material. For example, my motorhome gets cold drafts from the air vents. In cold weather, I stop this draft by placing a cloth in the air filter intake of the engine. The trick is remembering to remove the cloth before starting the engine up.

One way to find gaps is to go around with a temperature gun in your RV and look for cold areas. If a particular area is colder than the rest of the rig, there is a reason. Sometimes it’s because cold air is seeping in, which means warm air is escaping too.

2. Insulate

A well-insulated RV will hold heat longer which will reduce the time your furnace has to run. Many of the same tricks people use in the summer to help keep their RV cool will also help in the winter. For example, placing those square insulating pillows in the roof vents can help a lot, considering warm air rises and vents are a significant source of heat loss.

In addition to vents, windows could always use a little extra insulation. There are several ways to do this but many use Reflectix material on the windows, just like in the summertime. To prevent condensation from forming behind it, we like to put our insulation on the outside of the windows.

Reflectix is bubble wrap with foil on either side. It is pretty inexpensive and can be cut to size.

In addition to window insulation and roof vent insulation, adding heavy curtains and carpets to your RV can help retain heat. The bottom line is the longer the heat stays in your RV, the less your furnace must run, which saves you on propane.

3. Use Supplemental Heating

If your RV air conditioner has a heat pump setting, you can use that electrical heat source to save a lot of propane. There’s a catch, though. Typically RV heat pumps don’t work well once outside temperatures drop below 40 degrees.

Another option is to use a portable electric heater to help take the chill out of the air. It’s not recommended to use one if you are not actively able to keep an eye on your rig, though typical portable heaters have a few safety concerns to consider.

  • They take 1,500 watts of power to run, so a 30 amp RV shouldn’t run more than one on high.
  • They should have three feet of clearance around them.
  • It’s not recommended to run them while sleeping.
  • Relying solely on portable heaters and not running your furnace when it is below freezing can prevent warm air from reaching your pipes in some models, which puts your plumbing at risk of freezing.

Using a heating blanket with temperature settings while sleeping can help you keep the temperature much lower while remaining cozy. They also make heated fitted sheets, so the warmth comes from the mattress itself.

4. Layer up Inside

Keeping the thermostat in your RV as low as comfortably possible will cut down on the time your furnace must kick on each day. That being said, if you bundle up while inside your RV, you can probably stand to keep it colder. This doesn’t mean you have to suffer while winter RVing. Thick PJs, comfortable sweaters, and thick wool socks or slippers are all acceptable RV wear.

A propane-saving trick for comfort is only to kick up the heat when you need it. For example, if you keep the thermostat at 65 degrees all day and bundle up, you are going to eat up all that propane savings by kicking it up to 75 for fifteen minutes while you take a shower. So you can get out, dry off and get back into some cozy clothes before dropping the temp back down.

Propane Saving Tips in a Nutshell

Propane saving tips aren’t all that complicated. Before heading out on your winter, RVing adventures just make sure you don’t have any gaps that let the cold air in, insulate your vents, windows, and floors, and keep the thermostat as low as you can comfortably stand it. Additionally, use supplemental heating sources like heat blankets and safely use space heaters to assist your RV furnace.

Do you know what else isn’t complicated? Feeling safe in your winter travels because you have Coach-Net’s 30+ years of experience providing roadside assistance and peace of mind to its members and RV technical assistance just a phone call away. So don’t forget to join or renew your membership before hitting the road today.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Stuart O. ~ “All aspects of the issue were handled very well. I felt like Coach-Net really understood the urgency of our situation and handled it appropriately.”

Leveling And Stabilizing Are Important For More Than Comfort

03 Wednesday Nov 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Levelers, stabilizers, leveling jacks, scissor jacks, chocks, there are almost as many names for devices that level and stabilize as there are products available. However, these products play an important part in not only leveling and stabilizing your rig but also helping with structural integrity and proper appliance performance!

Leveling Jacks

Most RV owners are familiar with leveling jacks and there are have been several brands over the years. HWH and Power Gear were the big names in hydraulic leveling jacks in the 1990s and 2000s and were powerful enough to lift the tires off the ground of a 22,000 lb diesel pusher.

Lippert Components Inc (LCI) has purchased Power Gear as well as several lighter weight leveling jack providers such as Kwikee that had an electric system and have several of their own LCI brands. The important thing to remember about whatever type of leveling jack you have or are going to install is that they are doing more than just leveling your rig for a comfortable night’s sleep.

In my early days at Winnebago, we tested chassis’, welded foundations, and finished motorhomes on sine wave test tracks as well as computerized pads to determine what type of stress would be applied to various components in an unlevel situation or excess road vibration. At the time we were testing various slide room mechanisms and did over 14,000 extensions and retractions and what we found was in an unlevel condition, not only does the chassis/floor twists but the sidewall does as well and the room has resistance and eventually had created issues with operation. With that, all units with a slide room had leveling jacks as standard equipment.

Back when HWH was “THE” hydraulic leveling jack provider they designed a joystick extension and retraction pad that would only allow a bilateral extension procedure. The photo above is from a 2003 Winnebago Brave and you can see the top and bottom levers would control the front and back jacks. You would push those from center to activate and the center lever extended and retract the jacks in the direction you pushed the lever and it would always extend two jacks in a bilateral direction only. This meant if you pushed the lever forward, the two front jacks would extend, down meant the two back jacks would extend, and side to side following suit. This was designed to reduce the stress of extending one jack on an uneven spot and twisting the chassis. The system also had a pressure-sensitive feature so as you extended the two jacks in whatever direction, they both would come down and if one hit the ground before the other, it would pause until the other hit the ground and raise the coach evenly. This eliminated any twisting in the chassis and ultimately in the sidewall, slide rooms, and other areas of structural importance.

While developing a training program, we put one front tire of a standard chassis on a 12” car ramp to show the twist that occurs on a chassis. We saw that the compartment doors and entrance doors popped open. Yes, this is extreme however imagine what just a slight unlevel condition of 3-4” would do in a campground to the structure of your rig! I have gotten numerous photos of rigs that have the sidewall material shifted from the trim over the years.

So the importance of leveling is keeping the structural integrity of the chassis, flooring, and sidewall in a level plane which will allow the slide rooms to operate without stress and limit the stress on the sidewall to roof structure as well.

One last note on leveling the rig, your absorption refrigerator needs to be level to allow the coolant solution to flow back down to the boiler assembly through the zig-zag tubing. We have covered that many times before.

Stabilizing

Even after all that work of leveling your rig, it might not be stable which means a rock and roll situation that is much more than just annoying! Tires are inflated with air to provide a smooth cushion while driving but are not meant for providing stability when stationary. The four-point leveling jacks do provide superior stabilization, however, most of the other systems could use some assistance. For instance, if you have scissor jacks, they help level smaller rigs and keep them from tipping front to back but provide poor stabilization.

In fact, without additional support and wheel chocking, these can be damaged easily. Most trailer owners add some type of leg support for stability or even wheel stabilizers.

5th wheels pose a larger problem with the long overhead in the front that can get a little spongy and even cause some issues with structural integrity.

These are photos of a unit that has shifted considerably and now has very expensive repairs needed. It’s best to level and stabilize the rig and many 5th wheel owners also add support to the kingpin with a tripod support.

Some even add some additional side-to-side support for the larger rigs.

In addition, every technical support rep and engineer that I have talked with recommends leveling and stabilizing the rig before extending and retracting the slide room. If the rig is out of level and not stabilized, the chassis will shift, the floor will twist, and the sidewall will twist meaning you are trying to extend a square room in a twisted hole and will have resistance.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Martin Colin. ~ “Polite respectful helpful and reassuring. Just what you need when your RV is stuck in the mud on a wet and rainy Friday evening”

Boondocking Power Options

06 Wednesday Oct 2021

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Boondocking is a great way to save money while traveling. It can be fun and make your trip feel more like camping when you stay in a disbursed camping area for several days without the creature comforts of an RV park. Unfortunately, that means doing without a power hookup as well. There are several boondocking power options available to RVers. The trick is choosing the one(s) that fit your power needs and budget.

Gas/Propane Generator

Probably the most widely used power option for RVers is a gas or propane-powered generator. Motorhomes and Class Cs come with them built into the RV, and there are plenty of ways they can be carried with you or mounted on the back of fifth wheels and travel trailers.

Simply put, a fossil-fuel-powered generator, whether the fuel is gasoline, diesel, or propane, works by burning a fuel to spin a magnetic AC generator. This is similar to how the alternator in your car works.

Traditional Generator

A traditional generator sends the AC it generates directly to the outlets. The power may go through a voltage regulator of some kind, but you are generating AC power and using it for the most part. Unfortunately, some generators produce rather dirty power this way. What do I mean by dirty power?

AC power is called alternating current. Instead of flowing in one direction like direct current (DC), it alternates back and forth. Think of it like generating heat by rubbing your hands back and forth. When power comes out of your wall at home, it smoothly flows back and forth at the same rate, or frequency, all of the time. On a graph, this looks like a nice smooth sine wave.

Because a generator must rev up and down to maintain a constant voltage, it may not look as smooth. It might look jittery. This is called harmonic distortion. Traditional generators can have a lot of it. That doesn’t make them bad. Many modern generators have safeties built-in. If you need raw power to fire up your RV air conditioner several hours a day while boondocking, you will need a powerful generator to run it.

Pros

  • Many price points and sizes to choose from
  • Easy to keep running by adding more fuel

Cons

  • Depending on the size, they are quite heavy.
  • Trailer owners may have to get a mount built for it.
  • Cheaper ones tend to produce dirtier power, which isn’t necessarily good for electronics like computers.

Inverter Generator

Inverter generators are quieter than traditional gas-powered generators. They work by adding a few steps to the process of getting power. Power is produced the same way as a traditional generator and then sent through a rectifier to convert the AC power to DC. An onboard computer chip sends the power through an inverter (hence the name) to clean up the power and turn it back into AC.

Pros

  • They are smaller and lighter than most traditional generators.
  • They tend to be quieter.
  • They produce power with less distortion, which is better for electronics.

Cons

  • They are typically more expensive when you compare total power output.
  • They don’t typically produce as much power, so without additions like a SoftStartRV, they may not run a larger air conditioner that well.

Solar Power

Solar power is an excellent addition to any RVer’s boondocking power solution. As you probably already know, solar panels convert sunlight into electricity to charge your RV batteries. But there are a lot of other parts that go into making a solar system work too, and finding the right setup for you and your needs can be confusing and costly.

Fortunately, there are many articles and calculators online that can help you determine what size of solar system you need.

Many who install solar on their rig also opt for lithium batteries because they work very well with solar, require little to no maintenance, and can be placed anywhere because they don’t have to be vented like lead-acid batteries.

Pros

  • Eco-friendly
  • Low Maintenance
  • Free Power
  • Silent
  • Always charging your batteries when the sun is out

Cons

  • They can be costly.
  • Unless you have a very expensive and hefty system, you aren’t going to be running your air conditioner with solar.
  • Many RVers will have to get the system wired up if their rig isn’t prewired (not plug and play).
  • They aren’t very useful when you aren’t using your RV.

Portable Solar Generator System

A portable solar generator system combines a new addition to the power market, portable power stations, and solar panels. Though they haven’t quite gotten there yet, they aim to replace gas-powered generators eventually.

What is a portable power station?

Several companies like Jackery, Goal Zero, Bluetti, and Ecoflow produce portable power stations, and they all come in different sizes. They are all the same type of device, though. A lithium battery pack, an inverter, and a solar charge controller are all wrapped in a portable box with various output plugs. The power station can usually be charged three ways, a wall outlet or gas generator, a carport, and solar panels.

Using solar panels with a portable power station makes it a solar generator, especially if the power station supports pass-through charging (you can use it while it’s charging up). Some larger power stations can run just about everything on an RV, including a 1000W microwave.

Why get a portable solar generator over installing solar on an RV?

Using this type of system for solar power has a few advantages over installing a solar system on your RV. They are typically cheaper when you consider they have every component needed for solar charging, and you don’t have to pay to get them installed on your RV. They are also portable so that you can use them for power around your campsite or in your home as an emergency backup power source.

Pros

  • Eco-friendly
  • Low Maintenance
  • Free Power
  • Almost Silent
  • Portable Power
  • Useful when not RVing
  • May be less expensive than installing a solar system on your RV

Cons

  • Some of the larger units will run an RV air conditioner, but probably not for long periods.
  • Though they are technically a generator, it still takes time to charge them up with the sun.
  • The solar panels made for many of these units are portable and less durable than roof-mounted solar panels.
  • They require a bit more daily setup than a built-in RV solar system (power station and solar panels must be taken outside and set up to charge).

Which Power Option Should I Get?

There is no best option for every RVer out there. I can speak from personal experience and say that my motorhome has a generator built-in, but I also have a Jackery Explorer 1500 Solar Generator setup. When I need to run my air conditioner while boondocking, I use the generator and charge up the Explorer 1500 while it’s running. I charge the Explorer 1500 up with solar and run almost everything else like laptops, a microwave, TV, fan, etc. when I don’t need to run the AC.

If you only boondock a few times a year, you probably only need one power option. In contrast, those who spend much of their RV time without hookups will probably want the benefits of having a gas-powered generator and a solar option to cover all of their needs. It’s always better to have more options than you need in an emergency.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Laura H. ~ “We got the help we needed on a holiday to get us where we needed to go. Not sure we could have received this service from a regular auto club. Thank you Coach-Net.”

House Batteries-Storage, Maintenance, and New Technology

06 Wednesday Oct 2021

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We have written several articles about deep cycle batteries commonly called house batteries and produced numerous videos over the years so you might be saying, “Ok, we get it already!” However, in the last couple of years, there have been several new battery companies that came into the market, new technology with not only the standard lead-acid and AGM but also Lithium-Ion models as well.

Buying a Good Battery

When I first started in the industry in 1983 at Winnebago we used Goodyear Die Hard batteries and the warranty was through Sears stores across the nation. Back then there were thousands of stores, today I think the last one finally closed somewhere in the Midwest. The battery was good, the issue was for a warranty on the battery you had to take it out of your rig and bring it into a store! A lot has changed since then and there have been dozens of battery manufacturers that have come and gone and the old saying; “You get what you pay for” is still true today.

Batteries simply store energy that is used by the RV and replaced by a refilling or charging system. An acid solution reacts with the lead plates They all have lead plates in cells with acid covering them. The difference comes in the materials used inside the cells. Materials such as thicker positive plates, superior paste, better and fewer welds, and superior plate holders. Less expensive batteries that are offered by discount stores just do not last.

Typically Marine batteries are a hybrid with thinner cells and if they are rated with Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) they are designed for starting and may not be a true deep cycle design.

Lead Acid Gets A Bad Wrap

Even the good lead acid batteries can go bad prematurely if they are not properly maintained. As the energy is drained and recharged, sulfur coats the plates and needs to be removed during the first stage of recharging. A typical RV converter simply comes on at 13.6 volts until the battery is charged to 12.6 volts and then stays at 13.2 volts at which rate a fully charged battery will not accept a charge. To break up sulphation in a lead-acid battery, the initial charge commonly referred to as “bulk” charge needs to be approximately 14.6 volts. This would require a multi-stage charger such as the Progressive Dynamics “Charge Wizard” technology, a solar panel system with a charge controller, or an aftermarket product such as Battery Minder. Improper charging causes the sulfur level to get thicker and reduces storage capacity. Batteries look like they are fully charged at 12.6 volts but deplete fast due to sulphation.

Another issue with lead-acid is gassing and liquid depletion. As the battery is being recharged it create gassing which is hydrogen and oxygen and the liquid depletes. Therefore it is important to inspect the fluid level periodically and add distilled or deionized water to cover the plates. Low fluid levels expose the plates and cause them to deteriorate prematurely.

Absorbed Glass Mat-AGM

At my seminars, I’ve talked with many RVers that got fed up with their lead-acid batteries and went to AGM batteries because they provide more power and are less maintenance. This is half right, there is less maintenance as they are sealed and do not have gas, and are less prone to sulfation. They do not provide more power initially however, as they are less prone to sulfation, they provide the rated power over the years as the sulfated lead acids will start to underperform as discussed earlier.

Storage

All batteries will lose a charge during long periods of inactivity such as storage. Batteries should be recharged when they show under 70% capacity. And they need to be kept from freezing. If you do not have access to 120-volt power to charge or a solar panel, it is recommended to remove the batteries and maintain them store them properly.

Another option is using a solar panel with charge controller or Battery Minder which not only keeps the battery from freezing and properly maintained. This is good for lead acid, gel, and AGM. Not for use with Lithium Ion. Lithium-Ion batteries should be stored at 50 degree temperature and at 40-50% capacity.

Lithium Ion

In the past, Lithium Ion batteries were very expensive and did not perform well in cold weather. Technology has changed and more companies have developed Lithium Ion batteries that are getting closer to AGM batteries. Granted they are still about twice as much initially, however they can be drained down to almost 0% capacity vs 50% of other batteries so you can get by with fewer overall batteries. Also, they last longer so if you plan to keep your rig for a long time and do a lot of dry camping, the pay for themselves. Plus with proper charging,  they are not affected by cold weather as older versions.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect


Richard H. ~ “Leonard was very helpful and gave me his thoughts on my issue , which turned out to be correct. He found a service provider nearby and set up a visit for me and called me back the next day as the day of my call was a holiday.” 

Some Like It Hot…But Not When It Comes To An RV Fridge!

04 Wednesday Aug 2021

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As temperatures heat up this summer, so does the frustration of an ineffective absorption or “RV” refrigerator!  And typically insufficient cooling of the refrigerator is in the top three service calls right up there with batteries and air conditioners.

To make your RV refrigerator run more efficiently in hot weather, it’s important to understand how the absorption refrigerator works.  A heat source such as a flame when operating on liquid propane (LP) or a heat element when operating on 120-volt power heats a solution of Ammonia, Hydrogen, Sodium Chromate, and Water that comes from the boiler vessel.  As the solution gets hot, it turns to a vapor and travels up to the condenser fins where the components separate at various stages and create a flashing that draws heat out of the freezer compartment.  

The solutions travel back through the cabinet evaporator fins which can be seen inside the main refrigerator cabinet and make their way back down to the boiler vessel to start the process over.  There are no moving parts in this system and the solution zig zags it’s way back down by gravity. 

Here are 5 tips to make your refrigerator run more efficient in hot weather.

It’s Important To Be Level

Since the solution needs to travel back down the zig zag tubes of the cooling unit, it’s important that your rig is level for this to happen.  Most refrigerator manufacturers state the unit should be level 3 degrees side to side, 6 degrees front to back.  Since most of us do not have a digital leveling device that could tell us that, a good device to use is a bubble leveler that is typically provided with your new refrigerator.

If the bubble is breaking the circle, it’s ok.  This is one of the biggest issues with RV refrigerators as many owners bring their rigs home before a trip, park it in the driveway, and plug into the garage to cool the refrigerator down and load it.  Most driveways are slanted to allow for rain runoff and well past the requirements for the solution to makes its way back to the boiler vessel.  When it happens, the solution pools in the cooling unit tube which makes it heat up and eventually flakes and blocks the flow of the rest of the solution until it becomes solid and the unit does not cool at all. 

Routine Maintenance

Since there are no moving parts, most owners think there is little or no maintenance required for their refrigerator other than cleaning it out.  After all, our residential refrigerator needs no maintenance unless I forget the Braunschweiger hidden in the veggie drawer!  However, for RV refrigerators, there are a few things you need to do at least once a year to make your unit run more efficient.

Clean the roof vent if your refrigerator is not in a slide out.  The heat generated in the back of your refrigerator compartment needs to vent out either through the top of the rig or on the side if your unit is in a slideout.  The roof top vent has a screen covering the rectangular exhaust commonly referred to as the flue which can get plugged and needs to be cleaned to allow the heat to exhaust out. 

Next, clean the burner assembly and other components to get rid of soot, obstructions from spiders and other inspects and dust.  Use an air gun blower and clean out the entire outside compartment shown here.  This is a blow gun purchased at an auto parts store with a ¼” clear hose on the end with a pinch clamp.  Wear safety glasses as this will provide a shower of soot and dust but will prevent additional heat from collecting on the components.

Check the door seals to make sure they are making a good connection.  Place a piece of paper or dollar bill between the door and frame, shut the door and try pulling the paper out.  If it tugs slightly, it is good, however if it slides out easily, it is not sealing and warm moist air can penetrate the inside.

Cool Your Food Before You Go

Don’t put warm food inside a warm refrigerator and expect it to get to 36 degrees anytime soon!  If possible, cool down food before camping and get your refrigerator to operating temperature before you leave.  A typical refrigerator can only reduce ambient temperature inside the cabinet about 10 degrees per cycle which means it can take over 24 hours to bring a unit down from 90 degrees to 36 or even more.  Plus, if you add warm food, it will take longer. 

Since the freezer is the first stage of cooling, I have found it’s easier to keep the rest of the refrigerator cool by putting 5 lb bag of ice in there if you have room.  The more stuff you have in the freezer, the cooler the temperature is in the main ref cabinet…from my experience.

Also, limit the amount of can items in the main cabinet as they have a tendency to create condensation which can collect on the evaporator fins and cause frost.  This will give a false temperature reading to the temperature sensor called the thermistor and the refrigerator will not cool efficiently. 

Make Sure There Is Good Airflow Inside

Heat rises and it’s not uncommon for a refrigerator to create pockets of hot and cold air as there is virtually no air movement inside your refrigerator.  Use a small 9-volt fan placed on the bottom shelf to get air moving evenly around the inside.  Do not put plastic or other liners on the shelves as this will also block the air flow.  Check to make sure the thermistor is not covered in frost, if so you will need to defrost the unit.  You may need to raise the thermistor to a higher position on the evaporator fins as hot air rises. 

Cool The Back Of The Refrigerator Compartment

If possible, park your rig with the refrigerator side in the shade during the heat of the day.  Direct sunlight in the afternoon will heat the compartment and make it difficult to keep up with the additional heat.  The addition of venting fans will also help move the heat out of the compartment to the roof vent or slideroom upper vent.

These should be placed above the cooling unit just under the evaporator coil.  Smaller fans placed at the bottom are ineffective as there is to much obstruction from the boiler vessel and other cooling unit components.

Quick Troubleshooting

If your refrigerator is not cooling efficiently, check the operation on both modes.  If it is cooling on LP better than 120-volt AC power, you can verify it’s not the cooling unit, rather something in the 120-volt AC operation.  Generally low voltage or a weak heating unit.  If it’s cooling on 120-volt AC, then it’s something in the LP operation such as low LP pressure from the regulator, dirty burner assembly, or erratic flame operation.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Claire W. ~ “Coach-Net is a life saver to RVers when stranded out on the road. Service is provided in a VERY reasonable time frame.” 

Pure Sine Wave Versus Modified Sine Wave Inverters

07 Wednesday Jul 2021

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An inverter allows you to use your RV batteries to run AC appliances. They come in all sizes, and systems can be built to run everything from desk fans to air conditioners (if you have the battery power). All inverters are not equal, however. There are a few ways that these devices turn the DC power from your batteries into AC, and not all of them work well on all devices.

What is a sine wave?

Source

The image above shows a sine wave. It’s a wave that oscillates between positive and negative numbers at the same rate over time. The next question is, how does that relate to electricity?

Direct current, or DC, flows in one direction through a circuit. To put it another way, when you hook up a battery to a lightbulb, the power flows out of the battery, in one end of the light, out the other end, and then follows the wire back into the battery. Graphing this electrical flow over time would result in a straight line.

Alternating current, or AC, moves both forward and backward. In other words, the power alternates direction. Keeping the graph above in mind, imagine the wavy line as electricity moving forward through a wire, then slowing to a stop, and then starting to move backward faster and faster until it reaches the opposite stopping point. This process happens over and over again. It’s kind of like rubbing your hands back and forth to create heat. The graph is a visual representation of that AC power sloshing back and forth.

The reason DC and AC differ in how they move has to do with how the power is typically generated. There is no need to go into detail about the mechanics of generating electricity, though. The main point here is that some electrical devices in our RVs like computers, LED lights, and phones run off DC power. Appliances like coffee makers, microwaves, fans, phone wall chargers, and TVs all require AC power in some capacity to function.

Unless you have a generator, which produces AC power, you are stuck with DC power from your RV’s batteries when your RV isn’t plugged in. An inverter will convert DC from your batteries into AC so that you can run AC appliances from your DC batteries.

How An Inverter Works

Imagine you have a flashlight powered by one battery. Since a battery is DC, the current will flow in one direction through the light to power it. Imagine you quickly take the battery out, flip it around, and put it back in the flashlight. The light would still work, but the current would be flowing in the opposite direction. If you could flip that battery around repeatedly at around 50 times a second, the current direction would be alternating.

That is precisely how a basic mechanical alternator works. Unfortunately, this method doesn’t produce a smooth sine wave because instead of the current gradually changing direction, it does so abruptly. The resulting wave looks like a square wave.

Source

A square wave will run AC devices, but many of them don’t like it. Things with motors tend to overheat, and electronic devices with a computer chip may not function at all. Fortunately, you won’t find inverters that produce a simple square wave for the most part.

Most modern inverters use various electrical components to produce what is called a “modified sine wave.” In essence, they try to gradually alternate current directions like true AC. The resulting graph looks more like a stair-step pattern.

Source

As you can see from the photo above, the modified sine wave looks a little bit like the pure sine wave pictured above. If your electrical device doesn’t need a pure sine wave inverter, such as an incandescent lightbulb, a heater, a toaster, or any other device that doesn’t really care what the quality of current is, then a modified sine wave inverter works great.

Unfortunately, when it comes to electronic devices such as computers, fluorescent lighting, speakers, AC motors (fans, refrigerators, air compressors), and some CPAP machines, a modified sine wave inverter doesn’t work as well. Aside from flickering lights and wacky computer issues, a modified sine wave inverter causes many devices to run inefficiently. In other words, power is lost in the form of heat. The result of devices running hot is a reduced lifespan.

Pure Sine Wave Inverters

A pure sine wave inverter, like the name implies, uses more expensive components that duplicate the pure sine wave that you would find coming out of a household plug. Anything you can run with a household plug will run just fine with a pure sine wave inverter.

Which one should you get?

It’s probably apparent by now that a pure sine wave inverter is the better of the two. Unfortunately, it is also the more expensive of the two. If you already have an inverter in your RV and are unsure of what type it is, your manual should tell you. If you don’t have a manual, you can always find the make and model on the device and google it to find out.

If you have a modified sine wave inverter, take a look at how you use it. Computers are probably not a good idea, but devices like laptop plugs that convert AC to DC with a rectifier will work fine. The disadvantage is it may wear out your laptop charger. If you run fans, fridges, or other devices with an AC motor using your modified sine wave inverter, they can prematurely wear. If you travel with a CPAP machine, make sure you confirm that it will run with a modified sine wave inverter, as some don’t.

Bottom Line

Upgrading to a pure sine wave inverter is the optimal choice, but most RVers can run many of the things they need with a cheaper modified sine wave inverter if it’s not in your budget. They just have to be aware of what they are plugging into it.

RV Technical Assistance Hotline

Basic electrical issues and other problems are common, and not everyone is an RV repair expert. However, did you know that your Coach-Net Premier Plan comes with access to the RV Technical Hotline? It’s available to you 24/7 to guide you through many common operational issues. Call the Roadside Assistance phone number on your member card to be connected to a technician.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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David O. ~ “I was stranded miles from anywhere and the help and service was truly amazing. So thankful for the high level of service”

120-volt Power – Protecting Yourself At The Campground

07 Wednesday Jul 2021

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As millions of people hit the road this summer for a long awaited getaway in their RV, campgrounds across America will be packed with people.  And that means an increase demand for electrical power as nobody can “rough it” anymore with a single air conditioning unit and only one TV!  No we have to have both roof airs going, 3 or more TVs, the pod coffee maker, microwave, and everything else.  Electrical system and pedestals commonly referred to as shoreline power will be taxed to the max.  So it’s important to understand your electrical system, learn how to check the pedestal for proper polarity and voltage, and know your limitations.

Let’s start with a basic understanding of how electricity gets to your rig. 120-volt power can be obtained from three different sources. The campground pedestal through your power cord, a generator either onboard or portable through a power cord, or from the house batteries which provide 12-volt DC power to an inverter that can provide 120-volt power to a select few items. 

Since we are talking safety at the campground, let’s concentrate on the pedestal and the power cord.  The cord can be permanently mounted inside the service compartment, or a twist plug like the unit in the graphic.  Either way, the 120-volt power goes to the distribution center located inside the coach.

Inside the distribution center you will find a main circuit breaker that shuts off all power, and individual circuit breakers for the various appliances and wall outlets.  In most RVs you will also find a set of automotive fuses for the 12-volt operations although some manufacturers have design a separate set of push button type fuses located in another compartment. 

Power from these circuit breakers is routed through wiring known as Romex to the appliances inside cabinets and sometimes even embedded in the walls and ceiling during manufacturing.  That is why it’s important to check for wiring before adding anything to your rig that might require installing a screw into the wall or ceiling!

Back to the pedestal.  Most campgrounds offer a 15 amp, 30 amp, and sometimes 50 amp connection.

These all have a hot, neutral, and ground wire and can only be plugged in one way.  The 50 amp connection has two hot wires supplying the distribution center so it can handle a larger load.  Before plugging into the campground source it’s important to check the make sure the pedestal is wired correctly and has proper voltage.  This can be done with a variety of devices such as this digital tester.

The voltage should be at least 110-volts and not more than 124-volts.  Lower than 110-volts will still run appliances, however they will run slower and could cause damage to items like the fan motor in your air conditioners.  If you are plugging into a 30 amp outlet, you will need to use an adapter to check the voltage.  If you plan to use the 50 amp outlet you will need a different tester.

Another option is a multimeter which will tell you the voltage of any of the outlets. 

First, become familiar with the multimeter and the outlet.  Set the dial to AC which is the squiggly line under the A and hold both probes in one hand.  This will prevent electrical current from going through your body if something happens.  On a 15 amp outlet place the red probe in the small slot which should be the hot wire and the black probe in the larger slot which should be the neutral.  You should have a reading of 110-120-volts. 

To check for a properly grounded outlet, keep the red probe in the small (hot) slot and move the black to the ground which has a slight rounded side.  The reading should be the same, if not it is not properly grounded.  Refer to the graphic above.

On a 30 amp outlet refer to the graphic as well and see the hot is always counter clockwise to the ground hole.  Typically the outlet should be mounted with the ground hole at the top but always take caution first.

A 50 amp outlet will have one hot wire or slot on each side and the ground to the top with a rounded side as well.  Each hot slot should have 110-120-volts.

While this method will help check proper wiring and voltage at the time of measurement, it does not help monitor what the voltage does while you are at the campground and the temperature starts to rise and the hundred other rigs start to plug in. That’s why it’s best to get a surge protector such as this popular model from TRC that not only acts as a surge protector in case of a spike in voltage, but also shows the voltage, correct wiring, and amp draw that your RV is pulling.

A few final tips:

 Always shut off the main circuit breaker before plugging in any device to the outlet and turn it off again when disconnecting your power cord. 

If you need an extension cord, use the same gauge as your shoreline power and do not go any longer than 25 feet.

Water and electricity do not mix!  Standing water around a campground pedestal is dangerous.  If the pedestal or your cord is in standing water, stay away and get a qualified electrician and the campground management to come and drain the water and verify it is safe.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Scott C. ~ “I’ve been a member since 2000. After a season and a half of camping with our (new to us) RV, there was an incident where I needed to contact Coach-Net for assistance. My experience was so professional and personal that I thought I needed to let someone know. I was stranded with a severe tire issue and your team took my info, organized a tow, repeatedly followed up with me (so I didn’t feel alone), found a repair facility, and really just took what should be a very stressful situation and made it manageable. Your staff was extremely pleasant and understood that I’m a person going through a tough situation. I can’t thank your team enough. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but your team blew away any expectations I did have. Thank you to your team.”