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Coach-Net

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Category Archives: Tech Tips

How A VPN Can Keep RVers Safe on The Internet

16 Wednesday Jun 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

RV Hack, RV Internet, RV Safety, RV tech tips, VPN

With email scams and high-profile hacks making the news as of late, some RVers may wonder if their data is safe when they connect to the internet. Large companies store our data and know more about us than we do. It is also legal for your internet service provider (ISP) to not only log but sell your browsing data to advertisers. Because we use a combination of public WiFi and our phones to connect to the net, RVer’s data is vulnerable in many ways. Before going into what a VPN is and how it can help keep you safe, let’s dive into the vulnerabilities.

ISP Data Collection

It is easy to think that your ISP is just selling a list of your browsing history for companies to pour-over. Unfortunately, for most companies interested in your data, that list isn’t all that helpful. It’s what browsing history can tell them. You may not know it but how you conduct yourself on the internet says more about you than just the sites you visit. Below is a screenshot of some of the data Google has collected about me.

Most of those categories and interests can be gathered by anyone who knows me. I assume data mining companies like google would know I have an interest in politics and the outdoors. But oddly, I have never told Google I don’t have children. I don’t search the internet for not having children. How do they know?

No one except for a select few knows precisely what Google’s data mining algorithms look like, but clicking the category gives us a little insight.

As you can see, though I never said it directly to Google or made searches for it, Google’s software could connect the dots.

A VPN won’t stop Google from logging your searches if you are logged into your google account or using chrome. However, if Google can figure out every aspect of your life and personality with limited access to your data, imagine what your ISP can collect and sell about you. They are the gatekeepers of all of your internet activity. They may know private information about your health, finances, and family.

To add to this problem, Google stores the information about you somewhere. So does your ISP. By allowing these companies to create this file on you, you have to trust their ability to keep it secure from hacks. Some of the high-profile data breaches of the recent past have shown that they can’t always keep your data safe.

Public WiFi Dangers

When you connect to a public WiFi network, such as at a coffee shop, RV park, or airport, you join a network. Imagine every RV using park WiFi is connected with invisible wires. That means, in theory, all data going from your laptop, phone, or smart TV can be intercepted before it leaves the park’s router.

Some public networks are very insecure, and this data interception can be done easily with a smartphone. This can leave any information you send over public networks vulnerable to hackers attempting to steal information about you. There are security measures that many sites like banks and email take to encrypt the data you put into them. Much of that relies on the security measures the site your visiting takes.

How A VPN Works

In short, a VPN or virtual private network creates an encrypted connection to the VPN company’s server. When you choose to go to coach-net.com using a WiFi connection in a standard internet connection, your data makes several stops before returning a response. But the simple version is the ISP contacts the server where the information you want is stored and returns the response to the park’s router. The router gets the information back to your specific device by assigning you a unique address known as a local IP address.

There are several ways a hacker might intercept this information. Most of them involve finding ways to trick your system or the parkโ€™s into running all the data through their device first. Most major VPN companies use sophisticated methods of swapping encryption keys to ensure you are connected to their server, and your connection is encrypted.

Once you have a connection to the VPN network, all communication to websites and the internet goes first through the VPN and is encrypted. This hides your internet traffic from your ISP and hackers. Anyone attempting to intercept the information will get a bunch of gibberish that would take thousands of years to crack, even with the most sophisticated computer systems.

How To Get A VPN

Remember that when you use a VPN company, you are sending your data through their servers. So make sure the company you are using has a good reputation and doesn’t log traffic. It is a good idea to stay away from free VPNs, as many of those log data to make their money.

A few of the top VPNs on the market today are ExpressVPN, NordVPN, and Hotspot Shield. All of them are fast, secure, and easy to use. For the most part, all you have to do is sign up, download the software, and press a button to turn it on when you browse the internet.

A Coach-Net plan can offer peace of mind and prevent you from being stuck on the road. Using a VPN while on the net can do the same for your sensitive data.


About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote โ€œSeasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.โ€ You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Dale K. ~ “It was a great experience in a bad situation. Everyone was just great from the time we called until we got back on the road. First-class service!”

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Things To Know Before You Get Into Hot Water-Water Heaters

03 Thursday Jun 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

RV Hot Water Heater, RV tech tips, RV Tips, RV Water Heater

Water heaters used in todayโ€™s RV have come a long way since the old manual start models.  There are also several types such as 6 gallon liquid propane (LP) fueled, 6 and 10 gallon LP and 120-Volt electric powered, and even on demand systems.  All these systems operate very similar to residential models and need little maintenance, however there are some things you need to understand to make them run more efficient and keep them running.

Winterizing

One of the most important aspects of a water heater is making sure you drain the water during storage and winterize it with either RV antifreeze or make sure there is no water in the tank and lines.  If water is in the tank and it freezes, it will split the inner tank and ruin it.  Typically there are two main water heater manufacturers, Suburban and Atwood.  Both have a drain plug that will allow you to drain the water.

This picture shows a typical Suburban water heater with a metal drain plug with an anode rod.  The anode rode acts as a sacrificial metal to prevent the tank from rusting.  The Suburban tank is aluminum and does not need the rod.  When draining the tank it a good idea to inspect the anode rod if your unit has one and replace it if itโ€™s badly corroded.

Once the water is drained you will need to either fill the entire tank with RV Antifreeze or another method is to bypass the water heater and leave it empty. 

This valve diverts the water away from the system and allows you to fill all the remaining lines with RV antifreeze and not waste 6-10 gallons filling the tank.  If your system does not have a bypass valve, there are aftermarket kits that are easy to install.  The other option is to make sure all the water is removed not only from the tank, but also all the lines in the system.

If you are storing your rig in an area that is not cold it is still a good idea to drain the tank just in case and also to get rid of standing water that can eventually not only get very stale and smell bad, but can also create mold and mildew.

Dewinterizing

When you are ready to bring the unit back out of storage, make sure there is water in the tank before starting it up!  Running an electric water heater without a full tank will burn out the electric heating element.

Periodic Tank Maintenance

Since you will be using hard water from campground source a fair amount of the time, sediment such as calcium, rust, lime, and even sand can accumulate in the tank.  Therefore itโ€™s a good idea to drain the tank and flush it periodically with fresh water and a garden hose.

If you detect a Sulphur or other bad smell, run the cold water first to determine if itโ€™s coming from the fresh water tank.  Then run the hot and to isolate if itโ€™s hot or cold.  To sanitize the hot water tank you can use chlorine bleach mixed to the recommendations on the side of the bottle, vinegar and water, or one of the various fresh water sanitizers available on the market.

It is also a good idea to periodically clean the burner assembly and air shutter tube.  Use an air compressor with a blow gun and make sure you wear safety glasses. 

Pilot Light Models

Inexpensive water heaters still require a manual lighting of a pilot light.  Refer to the original equipment (OEM) ownerโ€™s manual for this procedure.  Typically the procedure starts with making sure the propane tank valve is on and you have propane.  Turn the control knob to pilot.  This position is spring loaded so hold the control knob down and light with a long match or butane lighter with long extension and hold the knob down for approximately one minute or until it will stay lite.

Once the pilot stays on permanently, move the knob to the On position.  Some models also have a temperature knob that will allow you to set the desired temperature. 

Direct Ignition Start (DSI) Models

The DSI models are easy to start, simply verify the LP is on at the tank and push the On switch usually located at the monitor panel.  This activates the module board which is connected to the thermostat at the tank.  As the water temperature falls below the preset temperature, the module board opens the gas valve, starts the spark ignitor similar to what the pilot light would do, and starts the heater.  Once the water in the tank gets to the preset temperature it will shut off.

This photo shows the thermostat as well as the emergency cut off (ECO) switch in case the unit gets too hot.

Troubleshooting

If you notice water dripping or โ€œweepingโ€ out of the pressure relief valve located in the above photo with the yellow label, this is normal.  The tank should not reach over 210 degrees or 150 psi and if the system is running for a long period of time, it will typically reach 150 psi and simply โ€œweepโ€ out the additional pressure.  If it continues, the valve has either corroded or has become weak and defective.

In the case of a pilot light model water heater not functioning, first verify there is LP in the tank and the valve is on.  This can be determined by lighting another LP appliance such as the stove top.  Next, verify 12-volt power is coming to the module with a multimeter.  If the pilot light is working, and the water temperature is not hot, there typically is a temperature lever that you can adjust.  Check your ownerโ€™s manual for location and settings.  If the flame is not a consistent blue, check the air shutter to make sure itโ€™s at the recommended opening.  Typically it should be 1/4 open, again check your owners manual.

The factory thermostat is typically 110-14- degrees, if the water temperature is not getting hot check your air shutter setting, burner assembly for blockage, improper burner adjustment, or blocked u-tube.For Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) Models, the thermostat is factory set at 140 degrees and is not adjustable.  The unit will start when the water temperature drops below 115 degrees and shuts off at 140 degrees.  This typically takes 20-25 minutes.  Some models do have an optional thermostat that can be adjusted from 110-150 degrees.   If the unit will not start check the following:

  • Gas present but no spark โ€“ check the wires connected to the circuit/module board to ensure they are tight, check the electrodes at the spark assembly, check gap at electrode-should be 1/8โ€, and verify the porcelain is not cracked and sending the spark to a ground source.  Otherwise the circuit board could be bad.
  • Spark present but no gas โ€“ verify the power coming to the circuit board is at least 10.5 v DC, clean the burner tube and orifice, check for loose wires at the ECO and T/Stat, verify gas valves are on and correct gas pressure is at 11โ€ of water column.  A simple test for this is to start one burner on a stove top and verify a consistent blue flame, start a second and then a third.  If the flames flicker and are low, your LP pressure regulator is probably bad.
  • Insufficient or excessive water temperature โ€“ check to make sure the t/stat is properly seated to the tank, verify the burner assembly is working properly, if so, replace the t/stat.

If all above functions are working correctly, then itโ€™s time to check the circuit or module board.  This should be done by a certified technician.

Here is a simple test procedure from Atwood:

  1. Check all wire connections
  2. Check the integrity and position of the spark probe assembly
  3. Check the alignment of the main burner to the orifice
  4. Check the alignment of the flame spreader on the burner tube
  5. Check the air adjustment
  6. Check the cleanliness of the orifice
  7. Check  for obstructions in the main burner tube
  8. Check the cleanliness of the flue tube
  9. Check the voltage to the valve
  10. Check the gas pressure of the RV
  11. Intermittent circuit board-if everything else checks out above, only then check the circuit board.  Make sure it is clean, all connections secure and is moisture free before changing it out.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information โ€“ a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.


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Dimperio C. ~ “A++ service! It is rare today to find an RV service plan that actually does what it says it will! We are very happy and impressed!” 

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Generator Care And Maintenance

05 Wednesday May 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

RV Camping, RV generator, RV generator maintenance, RV Living, RV Maintenance, RV Pro Tips

The famous line from Star Trekโ€™s โ€œScottyโ€ while in the engine room was: โ€œCaptain, we need more dilithiam crystals!โ€  In other words, more power and it seems like thatโ€™s the case with todayโ€™s RVers as we are all trying to get the most out of every appliance we can get our hands on!

Ok, maybe not everyone, however a generator is an important component to not only help run appliances, but also charge the house batteries when dry camping or boondocking.  For the most part, generators require a limited amount of maintenance, however there are some things you need to know to make sure they provide the power you need and run as long as you need them to.  In this article we will cover permanently mounted or onboard generators.

Types of generators and their maintenance requirements:

Gasoline

Typically in a motorized RV, these generators are permanently mounted with rubberized motor mounts to the frame, although some are used in Toy Haulers as the fuel for these needs to be supplied by an onboard fuel source such as the gasoline tank.

Sizes can range from smaller 2000 watt versions, that have limited power, to the large 7000 watt version shown here that has enough power to make โ€œScottyโ€ happy!

Gasoline fuel generators can use regular unleaded or an Ethanol Blend not to exceed 10% Ethanol.  The key is to use fresh gas, nothing older than 30 days, which is why itโ€™s a good idea to run the tank low before refilling prior to storage. 

Larger generators (5000 watts and higher) have two circuit breakers on the generator itself, one that supplies 30 amp power to the distribution center, and a 20 amp breaker that is connected directly to the bedroom air conditioner if applicable. This allows you to run both roof airs with the front supplied by the distribution center and the back by the direct line on the generator.

Recommended maintenance includes changing oil as well as the oil and air filters.

Whether putting your RV to bed for a long while, or just getting it ready for an extended siesta, itโ€™s important to take a little time preparing your generator for an extended period of rest by following these steps:

Step One – Fuel Recommendations

The first step is to make sure your fuel tank is full before letting it sit for anything longer than 30 days.  A partially full fuel tank allows condensation to form inside the tank which not only adds water to the mix, but can also lead to rust forming and causing all kinds of issues.  Most seasoned RVers calculate their storage/winterizing schedule and let the fuel tank get low prior to storage so they can fill it with the proper fresh fuel before storing. 

Step Two – Stabilize The Fuel Supply

Any fuel will deteriorate as it sits in an engine or fuel tank for a period of time, usually as quick as 30 days.  Gasoline will start to varnish producing a gummy residue that clogs the carburetor, fuel filter, and fuel pump and affects performance.  Unlike engine performance or fuel economy, the octane level or grade of fuel has little effect on the time factor of this fuel deterioration.  Diesel fuel does not deteriorate and produce varnish like gasoline, however it can suffer biological growth (algae) and gel in cold weather which will also affect engine performance. 

It is recommended to use a quality fuel preservative and stabilizer with either diesel or gasoline models.  There are several brands on the market with most of the popular diesel stabilizers available at the major truck stops.  Onan recommends OnaFresh fuel preservative and stabilizer. 

Keep in mind, once a fuel starts to deteriorate and varnish is present in the generator, a preservative and stabilizer will not restore the fuel.  At this point you will need to try a fuel system cleaner or disassemble the generator components and clean/remove the contaminants. 

Step Three โ€“ Run The Unit

Run the unit under load for at least 30 minutes.  The Onan ownerโ€™s manual recommends 30 minutes plus 2 minutes for each foot of fuel line to ensure the stabilizer makes it way through all the lines and engine components.  Other Onan service documents recommend running for 1-2 hours.  Running the unit for 1 hour should be sufficient and make sure you have something on the inside that will provide a load to the generator like the roof air units or plugging in an appliance like a space heater.

Step Four โ€“ Change The Oil And Filter

After running the unit, itโ€™s recommended to change the oil and filter prior to storage.  This prevents acids from accumulating which could corrode bearings inside the engine.  Itโ€™s important to use the manufacturers original parts for oil filters and recommended oil.  Generic or replacement parts commonly referred to as โ€œwill-fitโ€ parts are built for cost, not quality.  These parts often times have inferior materials used for filtering, sealing, and longevity which could cause expensive failures. 

Onan has blended their own specific oil branded as OnaMax, however they do allow other brands under warranty as long as they meet the following specifications:

โ€“ Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: SJ, SL or SM where SM is currently the highest quality available. Look for the โ€œEnergy Conservingโ€ designation to optimize fuel economy.

Check your ownerโ€™s manual for weight or viscosity according to your genset and temperatures.

Step Fiveโ€“ Gasoline Engine Fogging

If you own a gasoline fueled RV generator itโ€™s recommended to remove the spark plug and spray Onanโ€™s OnaGard fogging spray to reduce rust and condensation in the cylinder.

Step Six โ€“ Check Connections

Make sure all cables, wires, and other connections are tight and protected.  You may need to clean battery cable connections and lubricate linkage points.

Step Seven โ€“ Disconnect The Battery

Itโ€™s a good idea to disconnect the ground terminal to the generator to eliminate any battery drain or accidental surge back from the house system if the unit is plugged in for storage.

Onan also recommends running the generator once a month for at least 30 minutes under 50% load to reduce the gasoline deterioration and varnish and keep the seals softened in the diesel and LP units.  In some situations this is not possible, so itโ€™s important to take the necessary steps to clean, protect, and stabilize the fuel source to make sure your generator performs well for years to come.

Liquid Propane/LP

Propane fueled generators are not as common as gas or diesel since LP is a very precious commodity when dry camping or boondocking which is when you need a generator!  Some diesel pusher owners choose the LP genset as it originally ran quieter and did not have the smell of the diesel fumes; however, for the most part this has not been a factor with the newer diesel genset models.  Some trailer owners use this model as they do not have a gas tank other than the tow vehicle which they can not tap into and want a permanently mounted unit.

Propane generators do require a similar oil and filter change maintenance schedule and Onan has the following recommendation for the proper fuel:

โ€” Use clean, HD-5 grade liquid propane in a mixture of at least 90% propane. Propane fuels other than HD-5 can contain more than 2.5 percent butane which can result in poor fuel vaporization and poor engine starting in outside temperatures below 32ยฐF.

Propane generators are not as subject to the varnish issue that gasoline models are, however it is a good idea to run the generator periodically to lubricate the seals and gaskets.  Onan recommends running it for 30 minutes 2-3 times yearly.

Diesel Generator

The diesel generator has come a long way since I took to the road training dealers back in the mid 1990โ€™s. OK I admit, most things have come a long way since that time!  Back then there were only 4 Rocky films and only 3 Star Wars films!

This unit is fueled by the chassis fuel tank just like the gas version and has the same maintenance schedule as the gas and propane with just a couple of additional items to be aware of.

Ensure the fuel selected for use has a minimum Cetane number of 45. No. 2-D or No.2-DLS diesel fuel gives the best economy and performance under most operating conditions. Use No. 1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 32ยฐF and during long periods of light engine load. Use low sulfur or ultra low sulfur content fuel having a cloud point of at least 10ยฐF below the lowest expected fuel temperature. Cloud point is the temperature at which wax crystals begin to form in diesel fuel.

Onan does have some recommendations for fuel type:

โ€” Use any of the following ASTM certified fuels for your quiet diesel:

  • ASTM-No.2-D (ambient temperature greater than 23ยฐF) (No. 2 Diesel)
  • or ASTM-1-D (No. 1 Diesel)
  • No.2-DLS (ambient temperature greater than 23ยฐF)
  • No.1-D (ambient temperature less than 23ยฐF)
  • No.1-DLS (ambient temperature less than 23ยฐF)
  • B5 Biodiesel(ambient temperature greater than 50ยฐF)

B20 Biodiesel

โˆ’ The use of B20 biodiesel requires the generator to have an additional fuel/water separator. Long-term storage of biodiesel fuels can result in oxidation and/or mold growth. Consult your vehicle manufacturer and your generator ownerโ€™s manual to see if this option is applicable to your generator.

โ€“ Use oil meeting any of the following API performance categories: CF, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 or CJ-4 where CJ-4 is currently the highest quality available. The use of synthetic oil is not recommended during the warranty period. The use of oil meeting API performance category CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 or CI-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.5% or CJ-4 while burning fuel with a sulfuric content greater than 0.0015% is not recommended as oil service is negatively impacted.

Check your generator ownerโ€™s manual for recommended weight/viscosity for temperatures.


About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information โ€“ a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.


RV Protect

Joe B. ~ “First time needing any services with Coach-Net and I was impressed. Joshua was outstanding. He communicated clearly and was easy to understand. Also, he was compassionate, helpful, efficient, and reliable. I was taken care of in a timely manner and felt like someone had by best interest at heart in a very stressful situation. Thank you!” 

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What Is a Portable Macerator Pump, & Do You Need One?

05 Wednesday May 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Macerator Pump, Portable Macerator Pump, RV Camping, RV Dump Station, RV Dump Tips, RV Macerator Pump, RV tech tip

Have you ever RVed in a friend’s driveway or parked more than 25 ft from a sewer hookup? If so, you could have probably benefitted from a macerator pump. Some RVs come with macerator pumps built-in. For those who have never heard of one of these devices, let’s discuss what it does and how it can help RVers.

A macerator pump is a motorized pump with a blade that turns your black tank waste into a slurry. Think of it as a garbage disposal for an RV black tank. Because the waste is pumped into the hose, it is ideal in situations that require you to dump uphill or long distances. Since the waste is chewed up into a slurry, you can use a small hose, too, even a 1″ garden hose. Another advantage a macerator pump has is the broader availability of dumping locations, such as your home sewer system (if legal in your municipality).

How do you use a macerator pump?

Macerator pump connected to a 90-degree clear elbow adaptor. Source

The pump itself has a large bayonet fitting that hooks directly to your sewer dump outlet. It’s the same connector style as the large 3″ sewer hoses. The pump will have a discharge outlet to attach the waste hose. Some brands will have a third connector that allows you to connect a freshwater hose to backflush the system after dumping.

Note: If you are using a garden hose to dump, make sure you only use that hose for dumping, as it will always be considered contaminated.

To use the pump, attach all of the hoses, connect a 12V power source, open the black tank and turn on the pump. It will start chewing up and pumping the waste through the hose. Once the black tank is empty, turn the pump off. You may wish to use the backflush option to fill your tank with a little bit of water and then turn the pump back on until it is empty again.

It can be helpful to connect a transparent sewer hose adapter between the RV and the pump so that you can see when you have adequately flushed your tank out. Flushing your tank is essential if you plan on storing your RV after dumping. Waste left in the tank can accumulate and dry up inside the tank itself if it is not flushed completely. Once your black tank is sufficiently empty, turn the pump off, close the black tank, open the grey tank, and turn the pump on to flush the line.

If your sewer dump hookup is at an angle, you will probably have no problems pumping all the liquid out. Many motorhomes have a sewer compartment that forces you to hook up the pump parallel to the ground. This can make it difficult to empty all of the liquid.

If your sewer compartment looks like this, you may need to use an extension piece to get it past your compartment, and then use a 90-degree adapter in order to get a complete drain. Photo by Levi Henley.

That is where the transparent adapter and making sure you have adequately flushed the system before unhooking it comes into play. Any lingering water that comes out should be clear as opposed to, well, any other color.

The following video shows how to use a portable macerator pump.

Are there any cons to macerator pumps?

Though macerator pumps can allow you to dump more easily sometimes, they come with their share of problems too. For starters, they don’t make dumping your tanks any faster. The traditional way to drain an RV tank with a 3″ sewer hose can be done in about 10 minutes or less. By the time you hook up everything, thoroughly flush everything, etc., you will have spent at least 20 minutes dumping your tanks with a macerator. A small price to pay if you have to dump uphill.

Some other cons of portable macerator pumps are:

  • They require maintenance.
  • It is possible to find yourself in a situation where the pump builds up excessive pressure causing damage to your system. You can avoid this by ensuring the drain valves are open whenever the pump is running. Still, a mistake in this area can cause quite an unpleasant mess.
  • With all the flushing and slower drain process, it generally takes a bit more water to dump your tanks.
  • They aren’t cheap.

How much does it cost?

Given a macerator pump’s usefulness, it would seem like every RVer would want to carry one around just in case. Unfortunately, they are not the cheapest RV accessory you can find. On average, they run between $200-$300. So it’s not an item that RVers typically have if they don’t run into situations that require them often. You can find popular brands like Flojet and Shurflo on Amazon, Camping World, and other RV retailers.

Should I get one?

If you find yourself needing to dump your tanks at home or regularly camp where the sewer dump is far away or uphill from your RV, it may be worthwhile. Many RVers who stay exclusively at full hookup campgrounds won’t find a need for one. However, if you find yourself up a creek, it’s nice to know of this paddle available to you and your RV.


About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote โ€œSeasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.โ€ You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

RV Protect

George N. ~ “We have used Coach-Net’s services several times and always have positive results. And without a doubt the cost of the annual coverage is hands-down one of the best deals in the industry.”

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How and Why to Install an External Propane Kit on your Motorhome

29 Monday Mar 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Propane Safety, Propane System, RV Camping Tips, RV Propane, RV Protect, RV tech tip, RV Tips

There are many reasons to choose one type of RV over another. People that opt for a motorhome may do so because they offer many convenient features. An auto-leveling system, climate control while driving, and a built-in generator are all pros of getting a motorhome. One drawback to owning a motorhome RVers can quickly discover is that the propane tank is not removable. Instead of detaching the propane tank and taking it to the closest Tractor Supply to fill, you must drive the entire motorhome there.

For those camping in colder locations or wishing to stay in one place for several weeks, it can be a pain to have to move the whole motorhome every time the propane runs low. Fortunately, there is a product for that. External propane kits are easy to install and readily available. They not only give you the ability to hook up external propane tanks to your motorhome, but some also have ports that allow for you to hook up gas grills, so you donโ€™t have to go through those disposable 1lb bottles.

How does it work?

Camco Propane Brass 4 Port Tee- Comes with 5ft and 12ft Hoses listed on Amazon.

The main component of a propane kit is the brass tee. It is called a tee because it allows propane from your main tank to flow to your propane regulator in a straight line but has a port in the middle that you can fit a hose to making a โ€œTโ€ shape. Most models will have a one-way valve either in the tee itself or the external propane hose. This valve allows propane to flow from the external tank but not the other direction.

Where do you get one?

Most RV parts stores will carry them, and you can order them online from places like Amazon or Walmart. You can purchase just the tee for about $40 or the entire kit with hoses at $60 to $80. From personal experience, I have found that the 5โ€™ hose (that comes with most of these kits) is a little short. Sometimes I want the tanks on the opposite side of the RV. For that reason, I have opted to purchase a 12โ€™ propane hose.

Camco 59035 12′ Propane Supply Hose

How do you install it?

This is the regulator attached to the motorhome propane tank. Notice the notches on the screw. That means itโ€™s threaded backward.

The first step to installing a brass tee is to make sure your propane is off. Once the propane is off, you will want to disconnect the regulator of the propane tank. Keep in mind that a POL propane connector is threaded backward. Instead of โ€œrighty tighty, lefty loosey,โ€ itโ€™s the opposite of that.

This is the regulator removed from the main tank.

Next, you will want to remove the regulator from the main tank output. The brass tee will go in between the regulator and the tank. It is vital for the proper function that the tee be installed before the regulator. If it is somehow installed downline from it, your propane system wonโ€™t function and could pose a hazard because the external tank pressure will not be regulated when it does through the system.

Screw the brass tee into the tank, and then screw the regulator into the tee. You may have noticed the fittings have O-rings on them and therefore do not need any thread seal tape.

I used a โ…ž wrench to screw the regulator into the brass tee.

The last steps are to attach the propane hose and then screw the hose onto a propane tank. Itโ€™s important to note that though there are no O-rings, the fitting here is a flair fitting. It is designed to seal without thread seal tape.

Here is the hose connected. You may notice the thread seal tape at the top, but where the hose connects, there isnโ€™t any.

Connect the other end of the hose to a propane tank.

Once everything is connected, keep the motorhome propane tank off and turn on the external tank. It may be a good idea to check for leaks at this time. Many people use soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it over all the connections. If you see bubbles coming out, there is a leak.

They also make propane leak detector spray that claims to be non-corrosive. Some customers say that it works better. I use the leak detector spray because itโ€™s in a convenient bottle, itโ€™s about $5, and it can last several years. It works the same way, spray it on all connections and see if there are any bubbles.

Camco 10324 Gas Leak Detector with Sprayer – 8 oz – from Amazon

Once you have tested for leaks, try the stove. It can take a moment for the stove to light if there is any air in the lines. If you would like to see a video demonstration on installing a brass tee, check out the video below.

Any more tips?

When you move the propane regulator over, you may find that it no longer fits and hangs over the shelf. If thatโ€™s the case, you may want to find a way to elongate the shelf to keep road debris out of the regulator.

There are many ways to do this, but I went to Home Depot and found a couple of metal plates that I could bolt onto the existing shelf to extend it. If you plan on removing the brass tee before moving the rig, you wonโ€™t have to do this, but if you leave it on, you will want to protect the regulator.

Here are the two overlapping Simpson Strong-Tie TP 3-1/8 in. x 7 in. 20-Gauge Galvanized Tie Plates I used to extend the platform that the regulator sits on.

The next tip is one of safety. Propane can be dangerous to work with, and if you donโ€™t feel comfortable installing this yourself, it should be easy to get an RV tech to do it for you. Always keep propane safety in mind.


About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote โ€œSeasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.โ€ You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Rosafort M.ย ~ “I’m so happy we chose Coach-Net’s roadside assistance. This was our first camping trip ever and we got a flat tire which was very scary! So we called Coach-Net & the problem was solved within the hour! It makes us feel much more comfortable knowing we have you on our side!”

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ST vs. LT Tires: What’s the Difference?

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Overloading Tires, purchasing rv tires, RV Info, RV Tips, RV Tire Essentials, RV tire safety, RV Tires

ST vs. LT Tires: What's the Difference?

Are you looking for a little entertainment? Head over to your favorite RV forum and search for “ST vs. LT tires,” and don’t forget the popcorn. The debate on which one is better for travel trailers and fifth wheels has raged on for years. It probably isn’t going to be settled anytime soon, either. If you are new to RVing, going through the forum discussions will present you with good information and wrong information. It can be challenging to figure out which is which. Hopefully, by the end of this article, you will understand how these two types of tires differ, so you can decide what is right for you.

What are LT Tires?

Cars will have P-type or passenger tires designed to give the buttery-smooth ride felt in most cars. If you want to carry a heavy load, P tires will bend and flex more than they should. Just like a wire gets hot when you bend it back and forth, a tire does too. Heat is the arch-nemesis of tires and causes many blowouts.

LT stands for light truck tires, and they are designed for heavier duty trucks and SUVs that need to carry more weight. They have thicker sidewalls and heavier duty construction than P-type tires. The thicker sidewall and materials used in the tire make it more rigid and harder to bend and flex as much as passenger tires.

Though they give a stiffer ride, they are still designed with the passengers’ comfort in mind. Manufacturers attempt to develop these tires to hold up and dissipate heat under a load while still flexing and rolling enough to provide a ride that is as comfortable as possible. Their tread is designed to have maximum traction under various road conditions and grip the road under a powered axel.

Though LT tires were not explicitly engineered for trailers, some travel trailers and fifth wheels come with this type of tire installed off the lot. That doesn’t mean LT tires are the best option for every camper out there. There are pros and cons to everything in life.

What are ST Tires?

Travel trailers and fifth wheels do not need to feel nice to passengers while traveling down the road since no one should be in them at that time. They don’t need the traction to grip and propel you forward because their job is to be pulled behind a vehicle. ST stands for “special trailer,” and they are engineered to hold up lots of weight. Their rigid walls prevent trailer sway. The tread design provides low resistance for ease of towing and better gas mileage.

They don’t just look different externally. Tim Fry, a senior development engineer with Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company stated, “The major difference is reflected in the polyester cords used in ST tires. These cords are bigger than they would be for a comparable P or LT tire. Typically, the steel wire also has a larger diameter or greater tensile strength to meet the additional load requirements. Because of the heavier construction for an equal volume of air space, an ST tire is designated to carry more load than a P or LT tire.”

On top of the internal differences, the rubber used in ST tires typically has more chemicals that resist aging and UV rays. The rubber compound itself is usually harder, giving it more sidewall strength. In short, ST tires are designed to be put on a trailer.

Trailer Tire Safety

A lot is riding in your RV tires, literally. It’s vital to follow tire safety when towing a travel trailer or a fifth wheel. Most tire blowouts are a result of either old tires that come apart or heat buildup.

Heat Buildup

Proper Inflation: Proper inflation is listed in two places. There will be a sticker located somewhere around your RV door, which has the GVWR, tire size, and inflation pressure. The tire itself will list the cold inflation pressure on them. Underinflated tires will bend and flex the tire more as the wheel travels down the road. This causes heat to build up, and remember, heat is the arch-nemesis of tires.

Overloaded Trailer: Overloaded tires cause flexing and add dangerous stress to your tires, resulting in blowouts. Your travel trailer or fifth wheel is not intended to have more weight than the GVWR states on that sticker mentioned above. GVWR stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, and it is a measurement of all the things in the RV plus the weight of the RV itself. On top of the GVWR, each tire has a maximum load rating as well. Goodyear has a handy index and instructions on how to find your tiresโ€™ load index here.

Tire Blowout

There are two ways to find out if you are overloaded. Go to a truck stop with a CAT scale without your RV and weigh your towing vehicle, then go over the same scale with your RV attached. Subtract your vehicle’s weight from the second weight, and you have the total weight of your RV.

The best and second method requires you to find a place that specifically weighs RVs like RVSEF or Escapees RV Club Smart Weigh Program. They can weigh each tire separately and tell you if any tire is overcapacity.

Speed: If your RV is equipped with ST tires, they are not meant to be driven over 65 mph. You see and hear of people towing their trailers down the road at 80+ mph all the time. You also hear of ST tires blowing out all the time. Coincidence? There are some ST tires on the market, such as the Goodyear Endurance, which has an N speed rating allowing for a max speed of 87 mph. You can find the speed rating after the load rating on a tire. If your ST tire has no letter, then the speed rating is 65 mph.

Tire Source & Speed Rating Chart

The source and speed rating chart can be found here.

This writer believes that towing an RV down the road is safer at no faster than 65 mph, though. On top of the safety factor, the faster you pull that thing, the worse your gas mileage is. Look at it this way, a 500-mile trip will take 7.6 hours at 65 mph and 6.6 hours at 75 mph. Is the safety of your family and RV worth saving an hour? If you absolutely must make sure your speed needle is at the exact number that the speed limit signs state, make sure your tire is rated for that speed.

Age

Most people don’t put enough miles on their RV tires to wear them out. But tires do have an expiration date. Tires on a trailer should be replaced every 5 to 6 years. That is generally a good rule for ST or LT tires on a trailer. Trailer tires are constantly under a heavy load, and they tend to sit in storage for long periods between use, which causes them to break down faster.

Before each trip, inspect your tires for any cracks around the treads or the tire’s sidewall. There should be no bulges or defects of any kind. Remember, the 5 to 6-year rule only applies if your tires aren’t showing defects before that time. Many factors may require them to be replaced sooner.

The ST vs. LT Debate

Some RVers feel that LT tires are superior to ST tires and that no one should use ST tires. This claim can be found in many RV forums. It is usually based on anecdotal information or personal stories.

While individual stories and reviews of tires are important, it is hard to argue with an entire tire industry spanning global manufacturers and companies that say ST tires are a tool developed specifically for trailers. With tire manufacturers coming out with new ST tires with higher speed ratings, some of their arguments do not hold water.

Some RVers just want LT tires on their travel trailers and fifth wheels that didn’t come with them. On the flip side, some RVs come with LT tires from the factory. However, if you want to switch to LT tires, you must make a few considerations.

  • LT and ST tires do not have the same load rating when comparing size for size, so make sure whatever tire you choose has a sufficient load capacity for your RV. If the tires you are switching to have a higher load capacity, that does not automatically increase your GVWR. It’s never safe to overload your RV.
  • You will probably have to choose a larger tire size to find an LT tire of equal or greater load capacity. Make sure there is sufficient clearance all around the tire.
  • When you change your tire size, you will need a properly sized wheel as well. Changing out tires and wheels can be rather costly.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, it boils down to this. Tire manufacturers state that they have designed ST tires for the loads and motion that travel trailers and fifth wheels experience. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that your best gas mileage and towing feel will probably come from ST tires, especially if that is the type of tire your RV came with. If your current ST tires donโ€™t have the speed rating you like, or you don’t feel comfortable with the no-name brand tires that came with your rig, there are several options of high-end ST tires to choose from.

LT tires are not wrong or right for the most part. They just aren’t engineered for that job necessarily. Can you use them? Yes. If they are the proper weight rating and size for your RV. Many people run them with little problems at all, and some RVs come with them.

Should you switch to them if your RV didn’t come with them? It’s up to you but think of it this way. A rounded shovel is suitable for digging in the ground, a snow shovel is designed to glide over the top of the ground to move snow. Both are shovels, and technically you can use the smaller round tip shovel to move snow, but it won’t do the job as well as the snow shovel.

The snow shovel could be used to dig a hole, but it would be difficult, and you would probably damage the snow shovel in the process. Similarly, tire engineers tell us that ST tires were designed for the loads and force a trailer will experience. LT tires were engineered more for the loads and forces the towing vehicle will have. It’s best to always ensure that you are not only using the right tool for the job, but you are using it properly too.


About the author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.ย  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.ย  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote โ€œSeasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.โ€ You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.comย 

RV ProtectEmily. ~ “Help was on the way within 1 hour of my phone call. The call agent was outstanding, gave accurate info and expected service time, and actually called to follow up on service. This was my first time using Coach-Net and I will recommend them to everyone I know. Exceptional service all the way around, thank you!”

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4 Upgrades for a Truck Camper

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

RV Camping Tips, RV Plumbing, RV Solar Power, RV Truck, RV Upgrade, Truck Camper, Truck Camper Upgrades, Truck Campers

4 Upgrades for a Truck Camper

Source – i.pinimg.com

Whether your truck camper is the latest model on the market or a great buy you snagged from an ad, brand-new or used, your RV isnโ€™t quite ready for camping mode until youโ€™ve made some tweaks to meet your travel needs. Those modifications can be as simple as mounting a few command hooks for additional storage or more involved projects like installing a new solar power system.

There are many ways you can upgrade your truck camper to enhance your travel and camping experiences.ย  The following modifications are meant to improve comfort, extend off-grid excursions, and boost safety features.

All-In-One Sleep System

All-In-One Sleep System

Froli Sleep System

Both hard-sided and pop-up truck campers have the main sleeping area located in the cabover section. Even if you donโ€™t feel cramped in the space, you may be waking up with back pain from your mattress. On another note, there is minimal, if any, air circulating under the mattress, which makes this surface prone to condensation, a breeding ground for mold and mildew.

To rectify this predicament, the German-based company Froli devised a sleep system, essentially a mattress foundation comprised of a grid of plastic springs. These springs are made from a very durable Hi-Tech thermoplastic elastomer, which provides precise flexing under a load. Each and every spring elevates the mattress above its platform allowing continuous airflow underneath

Froli has designed three separate sleeping systems, all made with the same high-quality material but differing in spring height, surface area, and design. These systems can be used on bed platforms in boats, RVs, and residential homes. The systems are modular and meant to fit any size and shape sleeping surface, including the curved and odd-shaped sleeping areas of RVs.

A single sleep system can include springs with different firmness levels to accommodate sleeping preferences. One side of the system can comprise the firmer springs for the sleeper that likes a firm mattress, while the other side can have the springs for a softer base.

The following video from Kara of the Everlanders explains how a Froli sleep system can be utilized in an RV sleeping area. The RV couple is from Canada; however, Froli ships their products worldwide, including the U.S.

Solar Power Set-Up

Solar Power Set-Up

Solar Power Set-Up on a Truck Camper

For some RVers, solar power is the way to go, particularly if you are an avid boondocker.ย  Solar power systems reduce and or completely eliminate the need to run noisy, smelly gas generators to recharge batteries.ย  This eco-friendly, green solution requires minimal maintenance, is lightweight, and takes up zero room as the panels are mounted to the rooftop. Other system parts can be tucked away in the camper’s compartments.

Also, it is not uncommon for RVers to install their own solar power system.ย  The major components are solar panels to generate a charging current, a charge controller to regulate that charging current, and one or more deep cycle batteries to store that current. The following video from Explorist Life-DIY Campers gives a detailed description of how a solar power system works, along with a tutorial on installing one on a truck camper.

Plumbing Fixture Upgrades

Plumbing Fixture Upgrades

Delta Shower Head

Conserving water while boondocking, especially with a small RV like a truck camper that has minimal in-house fresh water capacity, is a challenge.ย  A quick and easy modification you can make to prolong your water supply is to change out plumbing fixtures like showerheads and faucet aerators.

Check your shower head to see if it is one that has a flow restrictor.ย  If not, itโ€™s time for a change. Brands like Oxygenics and Delta make showerheads that deliver efficient water pressure without wasting water.ย  This means the water in your fresh tank lasts longer.

Faucet aerators, small screens attached at the base of your kitchen or bathroom faucet, help reduce water flow as well.ย  Like the showerhead, this is a quick and painless upgrade that helps conserve water and extend your stay off-grid as well.

Safer Entrance Set-Up

Safer Entrance Set Up

Torklift Entry Steps with SafeStep Vinyl Riser Guards

Truck campers sit high above the ground, and sometimes the stairs in and out of the RV can be a bit of a challenge to ascend/descend for some. If you are traveling with little tikes of the human or canine variety, or if you or a family member is prone to losing balance, adding safety features to your entry steps might be a good idea.

The Torklift GlowStep aluminum folding scissor steps are trendy among the truck camper population. Dubbed the โ€œGlowStep Revolution,โ€ Torklift boasts that its stair system is the best in class for adjustability, DIY installment, versatility, and durability. Regardless of where you park, the steps quickly level on uneven ground and are sturdy, no more shaking as people or pets enter/exit the RV. The GlowStep stair system comes with up to 6 steps, has a 7.5-inch step riser height, slip-resistant treads, and glows in the dark.

Many accessories can be added, including the SafeStep. This a vinyl riser guard that velcros to each step, covering the gap between steps. This added safety measure prevents young children and pets from falling through as they climb up or down. The guards can be left on when the steps are folded up and removed for cleaning.

Torklift Dirt Destroyer

Torklift Dirt Destroyer

The Torklift DirtDestroyer is a cleaning brush that can be attached to the GlowStep ladder.ย  Campers can scrape their shoes or boots on the bristles before stepping into the RV.ย ย  This small attachment keeps dirt and other debris out of a small space that can easily get messy otherwise.

TorkLift GlowGuide Handrail

TorkLift GlowGuide Handrail

Another accessory to add more safety is the GlowGuide Handrail.ย  As the name suggests, it glows in the dark.ย  The handrail works with most rear-entry truck bed campers and is attached to both the camper and scissor steps. The rail collapses down and stores on the camper when itโ€™s time to pack up.

Best Upgrade Option

Perhaps the best upgrade to any RV is ensuring safe travels through Coach-Netโ€™s roadside assistance program. Since 1987, Coach-Net has been offering specialized care and attention to RVers.

Itโ€™s a Coach-Net promise. โ€œWhether you need advice from an RV technician who can guide you through many common technical and operational issues or roadside and campsite assistance when youโ€™re on the road away from home, our extensive provider network throughout the United States and Canada is available whenever and wherever you need it.โ€

Having peace of mind, knowing you and your family are being protected on the road is the best upgrade to make to any camping venture. Learn more about their roadside assistance and other supplementary programs here.


About The Author: Natalie Henley and her husband, Levi, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years.ย  They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.ย  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.ย  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote โ€œSeasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.โ€ You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com.

RV Protect

Shelley B. ~ “We have been a Coach-Net member since 2010 and have never had a problem. Their call agents are always so pleasant. I always talk to people about my coverage and suggest they give Coach-Net a try.”ย 

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Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

03 Wednesday Mar 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Exterior Care, RV Care, RV checklist, RV Chores, RV Life, RV Living, RV Maintenance

Exterior Care & Maintenance Part 2 : Fiberglass Sidewalls, Decals, & Tires

The sidewall of your RV can take a beating from the weather elements such as wind, rain, hail, and especially the sun beating down on it.ย  This affects the outer skin which is typically a fiberglass panel, decals, sealants, and your tires.

Sidewalls

Letโ€™s start with the sidewallโ€™s outer skin.ย  There have been several materials used over the years including aluminum, steel, and the most popular being fiberglass.ย  Crane Composites is the leader in fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) and introduced the product to the RV industry over 30 years ago.ย  Most RVers have heard of their signature product, Filon but they also have several other products used in the RV industry.

These products range from the entry-level โ€œribbedโ€ fiberglass commonly known as โ€œmesaโ€ sidewall to the high gloss material used on luxury RVs.ย  The basic composition of an FRP sidewall is the base material consisting of liquid plastic and mixed with strands of fiberglass to form a sheet or coil.ย  These can be colored and are typically available in white and various degrees of beige.ย  The outer layer gets a gel coat or clear finish which creates a shine.ย  Economy units have a very thin layer while more expensive units have thicker layers creating more of a shine or automotive finish.

The challenge is keeping the color from fading which has been a huge issue due to UV degradation.ย  Here is an example of a unit that sat in the California sun unprotected and not maintained.

Sidewall Discoloration

Itโ€™s hard to see the discoloration of the sidewall but it has turned to an almost pink hue and the decals show the effects of the exposure.ย  To minimize this, itโ€™s important to clean the sidewall with a mild detergent such as Dawn dish soap and cover the unit whenever it is not in use.

According to Crane Composites the company that makes Filon, they recommend washing the material monthly with a mild detergent and microfiber rag and doing additional maintenance every 6 months which includes waxing the material.ย  The gel coat material will change color when exposed to sunlight, heat, and moist air therefore it is important to do the maintenance and reposition the rig frequently to limit full-time exposure to one side.ย  Crane suggests using Meguiarโ€™s #56 boat and RV Pure Wax which has UV protection built-in.ย  More information on this procedure can be found on their website here:

If your sidewall already has some discoloration, they suggest Meguiarโ€™s #49 Heavy-Duty Oxidation Remover and a mechanical buffer, then a coat of wax or Mirka Polar Shine 35.ย  I have also found that Bar Keepers Friend can be used to buff out the discoloration as well.

Decals

Vinyl graphics and decals come in an economical โ€œCalendarโ€ style or more premium Cast type.ย  The Calendar version has a 2-3 year life cycle while the Cast is 5-7 but both can be extended with periodic care and maintenance.ย  Most of the vinyl graphics I have researched were produced by Sharpline and Valley Screen and they both recommend washing with a mild detergent that has a PH between 3-11 and has no strong solvents.ย  Use a microfiber cloth and do not wash cold material with cold water.ย  Water should be over 70 degrees as cold water can shock the material and the adhesive will delaminate from the vinyl.ย  If using a pressure washer, keep the tip at least 12 inches from the material and the pressure at or below 1200 psi.ย  They do not recommend any type of wax as it can keep the vinyl from โ€œbreathingโ€ and cause premature fading and cracking.

Tires

It has been said many times that tires are the most valuable component of an RV but also the most neglected.ย  There are far too many campground stories about tire failure on the road and many have suggested itโ€™s not ifโ€ฆbut when a tire will fail.ย  However, proper maintenance and education of weight and tire pressure will greatly reduce this.

Weighing Your RV

It is important to weigh your rig to determine the total weight does not exceed the GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your rig, the axle weight does not exceed the GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating, and find individual wheel position weights as well.ย  This can only be done with portable scales and you can find weighing teams through the RV Safety and Education Foundation here: www.rvsafety.com

Tire pressure should be checked every time you hit the road with a certified tire pressure gauge and not simply a glance.ย  You cannot tell the difference between a properly inflated tire and one that has 10 psi less.ย  ANDโ€ฆ10 psi less than recommended pressure reduces weight carrying capacity by 25%!

Cover your tires when not in use.ย  Sun and heat can deteriorate the sidewalls and create weather checking which can also lead to tire failure.ย  Clean the tire with a mild detergent and do not use tire shine!ย  Check your sidewall often for signs of weather checking.


About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information โ€“ a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.


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Micheal S. ~ “Leonard was understanding, thorough, and helped us troubleshoot during the Texas ice storm. We were up and running in less than 15 minutes!”ย 

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A Beginnerโ€™s Guide To HVACs For RVs

24 Wednesday Feb 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

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Tags

HVAC Tips, RV AC, RV Heater, RV HVAC, RV HVAC Maintenance, RV Maintenance, RV tech tips

A Beginnerโ€™s Guide To HVACs For RVs

Last year sawย record numbers of peopleย becoming proud RV owners, with more than 40,000 vehicles shipped in June 2020 alone. If youโ€™re new to the RV lifestyle, you may be wondering where to start with some of the terminology and information on offer. This guide to HVACs is designed to give you the confidence to run and maintain these essentials so that you can brave winter chills andย keep your cool in the summerย with ease.

Whatโ€™s an HVAC?

Your RVโ€™s HVAC is the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning system, similar to what you may have at home. Part of the joy of RV ownership is the freedom it gives you to travel and explore: 90% of RV owners take three or more mini-breaks per year in all sorts of weather conditions, so itโ€™s important to be able to keep the temperature to your liking. This leaves you feeling relaxed and comfortable enough to take in the views and make memories with your family in style.

Keeping Your Cool

Since 2020 sawย one of the hottest summers on record, you may be most concerned with the air conditioning in your new RV. The unit for this is likely to be stored in a rooftop box, which maximizes space inside your vehicle. Air conditioning power is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). The higher the rating, the more powerful the air conditioning. Put simply, the system picks up hot air in the RV and passes it via refrigerants – chemical coolants – which take the heat from it. The process converts gases to liquids and vice versa, so itโ€™s crucial that you clean the unit regularly toย reduce the risk of mold building upย inside. While you may find it helpful to fit a hygrometer to measure humidity (another factor for causing mold), your RV will already be fitted with a digital or analog thermometer. Some can be zoned so that the temperature in different parts of the RV can be controlled independently.

Winter adventures

Since many RV owners love to hit the road come rain or shine,ย spending three or four weeks a yearย in their vehicle, RVs are also equipped with heating and insulation to cope with colder weather. The warm air will either be produced by a heat pump, which uses electricity, or a furnace, which runs on propane. Your heat pump is likely to be located in the rooftop AC box. If you are camping somewhere with power, it can be a good idea to plug in and use your heat pump to save on propane, but in extreme cold, the furnace tends to be a more effective and efficient way to keep your RV cozy and warm.

Looking after your HVAC

While Coach-Net is always ready to help its members, with a little maintenance you can ensure that your RV is always as ready for adventures as you are. Use a handheld vacuum to clean dust from your HVACโ€™s vents regularly. For the AC unit, check for signs of fluid leakage, and ensure that you clean the filters regularly too. If your RV has a propane furnace, ensure that you have a carbon monoxide detector fitted in your vehicle and that the batteries are up to date. Finally, on the occasions when you are carrying out rooftop maintenance, keep an eye on the condition of the plastic casing in which the AC unit sits.

Owning an RV opens the door to all sorts of trips, but it can feel a little daunting as you get to grips with how best to take care of it.ย  Systems like your RVโ€™s HVAC are there to make your journeys more comfortable, so itโ€™s important to learn how to control the settings to your preferences, and to maintain the system so it can continue to look after you. Now, youโ€™re free to explore – whatever the weather.


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Exterior Care And Maintenanceย  Part 1: The Roof

03 Wednesday Feb 2021

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Exterior Care, RV Care, RV Maintenance, RV Rood Maintenance, RV roof air conditioner, RV tech tip, RV tips and tricks, RVRC

Exterior Care And Maintenanceย  Part 1: The Roof

A thorough inspection and maintenance plan of the exterior of your rig is important not only for looks but for longevity as well.ย  Sealants can become hard and cracked due to exposure to the sun and other elements which can also cause leaks and expensive damage.ย  Fiberglass and other materials can fade and crack due to UV exposure.ย ย  The first step is a visual inspection of all roof and sidewall materials, sealants, windows, tires, and vents.ย  Conduct a walk around to assess any damage or specific areas that may need more attention.

Roof Maintenance

Each year, the roof material of your RV should be cleaned, inspected, and conditioned properly according to the manufacturerโ€™s recommendation.ย  First, identify the type of material used for the exterior covering of your rig.ย  Years ago manufacturerโ€™s used aluminum skin then in the mid 1980โ€™s there was a shift by many to either fiberglass or a rubber membrane known as EPDM.ย  There are several products on the market that can be used to clean these materials even some designed specifically for EPDM and TPO.ย  My favorite is Dawn Dish Soap and water, the blue version as itโ€™s great on bird dropping and tree sap, but environmentally friendly.ย  Remember the footage of duckโ€™s in Alaska getting a bath?ย  Alpha Systems material is a rubberized component with a fleece backing and they recommend using Murphyโ€™s Oil Soap and water.

Once you identify the material and the proper cleaner, get a soft-bristled brush on a pole, 3 gallons or larger bucket, hose with sprayer, and a ladder.ย  You typically do not need a high-pressure sprayer which can also be dangerous with the kickback of a spray gun.

**BE CAREFUL WALKING ON THE ROOF!**

Make sure your rig can handle the weight, if not you will need to wash from the side using a scaffold or other device.ย  Stay away from vents and other openings as these may be weak areas.ย  Also, be careful about wet surfaces and a slippery roof.ย  I like to use a good tennis shoe that provides the best traction and oftentimes stay on my hands and knees for better stability!ย  Take extra precaution and use a tether or safety harness if possible.

Place the rig in a shaded area or wash during overcast as the sun will dry things in a hurry and could leave soap residue.ย  Wet the side of the rig down before washing and have someone keep it wet while you wash the roof if possible as the sides will dry with soap and cause a huge mess from dust, soap, and even roof material chaulking.ย  Pour the cleaner into the bucket and mix it in according to the directions.ย  With Dawn, I typically squeeze about 4-5 seconds of product into a 3-gallon bucket then fill it with water.

The rig should be at a slight angle away from the ladder, I place the rig front down on the driveway so I can climb up the back ladder, start from the front and work back.ย  This way the soap and water keep running to the front as I walk to the back and Iโ€™m typically on dry material the entire time.

Start with a small 4โ€™x4โ€™ area in the front corner and wet it down with the hose first.ย  Use the brush and cleaner to scrub the area and remove bird droppings or other material then rinse.ย  Using the pattern listed below, you can clean the entire roof, stay on dry material, and end up back at the ladder to get down.

Front Cap

slide out This is also a good time to clean the top of any slide rooms or the awning if there is one available.ย  Check with your awning manufacturer for recommended cleaning products and conditioners.

RV Roof

After you are done rinsing the entire roof, let it dry completely and then visually inspect all the seams, sealant, and vents.ย  Look for cracks in the sealant, separation of the front cap to the main roof material, cracks in roof vent covers, and any tears or cracking of roof material.ย  If you do find some suspect areas you will want to add additional sealant or better yet remove the old sealant with a heat gun and plastic scraper and apply new sealant.ย  Make sure you get the sealant designed for the roof material you are applying to.ย  Plain silicone will not stick to most fiberglass surfaces and you will have leaks.ย  For flat surfaces, you will want to use a self-leveling lap sealant such as the Dicor product or other approved product.

Silicone

Another product that has been very popular for many years with RVers is Etnernabond sealant tape.ย  You will need to clean and prime the roof material before applying but itโ€™s an easy fix.

Sealant Tape

If you have an older style โ€œbatwingโ€ crank-up antenna, check not only the sealant but the gear mechanism and coax.ย  Itโ€™s a good idea to apply a small amount of graphite lubricant to make it go up and down easier and not attract grit.

RV Roof

If your refrigerator has a roof vent to allow heat to escape, itโ€™s a good idea to remove the cover and inspect the open or โ€œflueโ€.ย  It will have a screen mesh covering it to keep critters from getting in and can catch dust, leaves, and other items that will clog it and keep the refrigerator from running efficiently.ย  If it is dirty, clean it or use a shop vacuum to clean it.ย  Do not clean with an air compressor as this will push dust down the cavity and into the rig.

If you have a roof air conditioner it is important to check the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit.ย  Do not run silicone around the perimeter as condensation from the evaporator coils needs to run off the roof.ย  Remove the cover inside the rig at the air return and you should see 4 spring-loaded bolts that keep the unit snug to the roof.ย  This is also a good time to inspect the evaporator coils to ensure they are clean and have good airflow going through them.

Here is an example of an evaporator coil clogged with body powder!ย  This unit was ruined and needed a new AC.ย  Once you remove the cover, check the filter and vacuum out any dust or obstructions on the coils.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of our Exterior Care & Maintenance blog where we’ll talk through how to care for your fiberglass sidewalls, decals, and tires!


About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information โ€“ a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.


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