Tag Archives: RV Electrical System

Winter RVing: Space Heaters And RVs

12 Friday Nov 2021

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Winter RVing can be a beautiful, quiet, and fantastic time to go camping. If you decide to go RVing in colder weather, you may find out just how good or not good most RV insulation is. Even with the furnace keeping your rig at a toasty temperature, place your hand on the wall of many RVs, and you will be able to feel the cold pressing in.

Due to this lack of thick insulation, it takes a ton of energy to keep an RV warm in the winter. RVers are faced with two energy choices in colder weather, electricity or propane. Rather than run out of propane quickly, many RVers attempt to forgo running their furnace to heat their rig with space heaters instead. Space heaters can be a great tool to supplement your RV furnace heating. However, there are some considerations and safety practices one should follow.

30 Amp RVs

The biggest issue with space heaters and RVs is the amount of power required to make them work. Your average fan or ceramic heater that you can pick up cheaply at big box stores has two settings. The low setting uses about 700 watts when running, and the high setting uses 1500 watts.

If your 30 amp RV tries to run more than 3,600 watts (or slightly less due to voltage variance among RV parks), it will start tripping breakers in your RV or at the power pedestal of the park. You can probably do the quick math to realize that a 30 amp rig simply can’t handle more than two space heaters on the high setting.

To add to that, your RV fridge and other electronics all pull power too, so running two space heaters day in and day out can push the system. Running an RV electrical system at its upper capacity, especially an older rig, can cause heat to build up in the wires posing a potential fire risk.

Bottom Line: If you plan to use a space heater in your 30 amp RV, it’s safest to limit it to one.

50 amp RVs

If your RV has a 50 amp system, you have a little more leeway as to how much you can run. Without going into a lot of details, a 50 amp rig has two 50 amp arms on its system. In other words, you have two 50 amp circuits in your rig totaling 12,000 possible running watts at 120 volts.

In theory, a 50 amp rig could handle about 6 or 7 space heaters and still run the other electrical appliances like the fridge, etc. Most RVers would stay comfortable in a moderately cold environment using just a couple of space heaters. A 50 amp RV can quite easily handle space heaters as a supplemental heat source from an electrical standpoint.

Other Electrical Concerns

Regardless of your RV’s electrical capacity, most RV plugs are wired to a 15 amp breaker. So let’s say your RV kitchen has four wall sockets on one breaker. You can only plug one space heater on high into any one of those sockets. If you plug in a second, that will start tripping the breaker as a 15 amp breaker can only handle 1,800 watts at 120 volts.

Another thing to consider is your power bill. If you stay at a park monthly that charges for electricity, running a 1500 watt space heater several hours a day will significantly increase your power bill. In other words, whether it be propane or electricity, it takes power to heat your rig, and someone must pay for that power.

Other Potential Problems

Close Quarters: In general, RVs are pretty small spaces, and it may be challenging to keep space heaters far enough away from flammable material like bedding and furniture to use them safely.

Frozen Pipes: Some RVs have enclosed underbellies and use some of the warm air from the propane RV furnace to keep the plumbing from freezing when winter RVing. Relying solely on space heaters in freezing temps could result in frozen pipes.

General Safety Concerns

In general, the safest heating method is to use the heat pump setting on your RV air conditioner (if equipped) when outdoor temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit and your RV’s propane furnace when it’s below 40 degrees. However, if you wish to supplement your heating with a space heater, following the tips below will result in the safest experience.

1. Buy the right size heater. There’s no need to have a heater intended to heat a warehouse in an RV.

2. Buy a space heater with covers or guards to prevent burns.

3. Make sure the heater is at least three feet from all objects.

4. Pets can easily knock them over, or children can get burned on them, so place space heaters out of their reach.

5. Never leave a space heater turned on when going to bed or leaving the room or RV.

6. Ensure your space heater has tip-over protection and overheat protection. These features will shut the heater off in the event of malfunction by tipping or getting too hot.

7. Only electric or vented fuel-fired heaters should be used. They do make small propane heaters that can be used inside, and there are also many stories of rigs going up in flames due to improper use or going to bed with them running.

8. Plug space heaters directly into an outlet. Don’t use extension cords or power strips. Almost ALL power strips are not wired to handle the load of a space heater.

9. Though the majority of this article concerns electrical space heaters, it should be mentioned that one should never use gas heaters intended for outdoor only use. This can result in carbon monoxide poisoning and death.

Stay Safe When Winter RVing

Winter RVing can be a fantastic experience, and you can find some good tips for a comfortable and safe experience on the Coach-Net ~ Travel and Adventure Blog. When it comes to any questions, concerns, safety information, or help, remember that your Coach-Net roadside assistance comes with  24/7 Protect.

Whether you need advice from an RV technician who can guide you through many common technical and operational issues or roadside and campsite assistance when you’re on the road away from home, our extensive provider network throughout the United States and Canada is available whenever and wherever you need it. Learn More

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and work camp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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120-volt Power – Protecting Yourself At The Campground

07 Wednesday Jul 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips

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As millions of people hit the road this summer for a long awaited getaway in their RV, campgrounds across America will be packed with people.  And that means an increase demand for electrical power as nobody can “rough it” anymore with a single air conditioning unit and only one TV!  No we have to have both roof airs going, 3 or more TVs, the pod coffee maker, microwave, and everything else.  Electrical system and pedestals commonly referred to as shoreline power will be taxed to the max.  So it’s important to understand your electrical system, learn how to check the pedestal for proper polarity and voltage, and know your limitations.

Let’s start with a basic understanding of how electricity gets to your rig. 120-volt power can be obtained from three different sources. The campground pedestal through your power cord, a generator either onboard or portable through a power cord, or from the house batteries which provide 12-volt DC power to an inverter that can provide 120-volt power to a select few items. 

Since we are talking safety at the campground, let’s concentrate on the pedestal and the power cord.  The cord can be permanently mounted inside the service compartment, or a twist plug like the unit in the graphic.  Either way, the 120-volt power goes to the distribution center located inside the coach.

Inside the distribution center you will find a main circuit breaker that shuts off all power, and individual circuit breakers for the various appliances and wall outlets.  In most RVs you will also find a set of automotive fuses for the 12-volt operations although some manufacturers have design a separate set of push button type fuses located in another compartment. 

Power from these circuit breakers is routed through wiring known as Romex to the appliances inside cabinets and sometimes even embedded in the walls and ceiling during manufacturing.  That is why it’s important to check for wiring before adding anything to your rig that might require installing a screw into the wall or ceiling!

Back to the pedestal.  Most campgrounds offer a 15 amp, 30 amp, and sometimes 50 amp connection.

These all have a hot, neutral, and ground wire and can only be plugged in one way.  The 50 amp connection has two hot wires supplying the distribution center so it can handle a larger load.  Before plugging into the campground source it’s important to check the make sure the pedestal is wired correctly and has proper voltage.  This can be done with a variety of devices such as this digital tester.

The voltage should be at least 110-volts and not more than 124-volts.  Lower than 110-volts will still run appliances, however they will run slower and could cause damage to items like the fan motor in your air conditioners.  If you are plugging into a 30 amp outlet, you will need to use an adapter to check the voltage.  If you plan to use the 50 amp outlet you will need a different tester.

Another option is a multimeter which will tell you the voltage of any of the outlets. 

First, become familiar with the multimeter and the outlet.  Set the dial to AC which is the squiggly line under the A and hold both probes in one hand.  This will prevent electrical current from going through your body if something happens.  On a 15 amp outlet place the red probe in the small slot which should be the hot wire and the black probe in the larger slot which should be the neutral.  You should have a reading of 110-120-volts. 

To check for a properly grounded outlet, keep the red probe in the small (hot) slot and move the black to the ground which has a slight rounded side.  The reading should be the same, if not it is not properly grounded.  Refer to the graphic above.

On a 30 amp outlet refer to the graphic as well and see the hot is always counter clockwise to the ground hole.  Typically the outlet should be mounted with the ground hole at the top but always take caution first.

A 50 amp outlet will have one hot wire or slot on each side and the ground to the top with a rounded side as well.  Each hot slot should have 110-120-volts.

While this method will help check proper wiring and voltage at the time of measurement, it does not help monitor what the voltage does while you are at the campground and the temperature starts to rise and the hundred other rigs start to plug in. That’s why it’s best to get a surge protector such as this popular model from TRC that not only acts as a surge protector in case of a spike in voltage, but also shows the voltage, correct wiring, and amp draw that your RV is pulling.

A few final tips:

 Always shut off the main circuit breaker before plugging in any device to the outlet and turn it off again when disconnecting your power cord. 

If you need an extension cord, use the same gauge as your shoreline power and do not go any longer than 25 feet.

Water and electricity do not mix!  Standing water around a campground pedestal is dangerous.  If the pedestal or your cord is in standing water, stay away and get a qualified electrician and the campground management to come and drain the water and verify it is safe.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Scott C. ~ “I’ve been a member since 2000. After a season and a half of camping with our (new to us) RV, there was an incident where I needed to contact Coach-Net for assistance. My experience was so professional and personal that I thought I needed to let someone know. I was stranded with a severe tire issue and your team took my info, organized a tow, repeatedly followed up with me (so I didn’t feel alone), found a repair facility, and really just took what should be a very stressful situation and made it manageable. Your staff was extremely pleasant and understood that I’m a person going through a tough situation. I can’t thank your team enough. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but your team blew away any expectations I did have. Thank you to your team.” 

Choosing The Right Battery For Your RV

08 Thursday Oct 2020

Posted by in Tech Tips

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Choosing The Right Battery For Your RV.

“What is the best battery for my rig?” The best or correct battery for your rig depends on a variety of factors such as:

  • How often will you be boondocking/dry camping?
  • How many 12-volt components will you be running and for how long?
  • How long do you plan on staying out before needing to recharge your batteries?
  • What type of budget do you have?

Most battery manufacturers make a variety of batteries for different applications. To start with, let’s look at the different types of batteries starting with cold cranking amp and deep cycle types.

Start/Engine Batteries

Start Your Engine Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is a term used to identify the batteries’ ability to start an engine in cold weather.  Since it’s harder to start an engine in cold weather, the higher CCA means more amp power available to turn the engine over and start in a 30-second time frame.  This type of battery should not be used in your house battery application.

Deep Cycle/House Batteries

A deep cycle battery simply stores energy to provide steady power to 12-volt components in your RV such as lights, water pump, roof vents, and any appliance that runs on LP such as the stovetop, water heater, furnace, and others.  It is designed to be discharged and recharged repeatedly which is known as a cycle.  This type of battery is the best for an RV application.

RV Batteries

Most RVers are concerned about the “best” house battery for their rig rather than the start battery so let’s look at the different types of deep-cycle or house batteries available.

Flooded Lead Acid (FLA)

The flooded lead-acid battery has been around for years, in fact, it was invented in 1859 by a French physicist well before any RV hit the road and there have been quite a few improvements over the years.

Flooded Lead-Acid Battery

Lead plates are surrounded or submerged by an electrolyte solution of sulfuric acid and water and require more maintenance as water is lost during recharging and distilled water should be added periodically.  They are also more prone to sulfation if not recharged properly with a multi-stage charger.   They also need to be stored upright otherwise electrolytes will spill out the vent caps.  These batteries tend to be the most cost-effective.

Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)

AGM batteries also have lead plates with an electrolyte solution, however glass sheets or “mats” are used to absorb the solution and due to the design, there is no gassing or solution loss and less maintenance.  They are also sealed and can be stored in an out of the way location without the need to check fluid levels or worry about leaking.  These batteries are typically twice the price of FLA batteries.

Absorb Glass Mat

6-Volt vs 12-volt

Whether you have FLA or AGM batteries, there are two different schools of thought in what RV manufacturers decide to use: 6-volt batteries connected in series, or 12-volt connected parallel. In either case, the end result is a 12-volt DC system!  6-volt batteries require two batteries that are connected positive to negative which is called in-series and creates a 12-volt battery bank.

Connecting two 6-volt batteries in series does not double the amp hours, to do that you need to add two more 6-volt batteries in series and connect them parallel to the system. The advantage of the 6-volt battery is they typically can by “cycled” or discharge and recharged more often so they will last longer but do not provide more power or amp-hours.

12 volt connected parallel

A single 12-volt battery can be used as a cost-effective method to provide power. Additional amp hours can be added with one more 12-volt battery connect parallel which is positive to positive.  This will double your available amp-hours.

Battery Size-Amp Hours

Deep cycle batteries are rated in groups, or available amp hours which is how long a battery can provide power before being discharged.  Here are some of the common amp-hours per group:

Group 24 – 70-80 amp hours

Group 27 – 80-100 amp hours

Group 31 – 100-130 amp hours

This means that the 100 amp hour battery will provide 1 amp of power for 100 hours.  However, we will use much more than 1 amp per hour so we need to determine what is being used and keep in mind that most batteries can only be discharged 50% before shortening the lifespan of the battery.

To calculate the best battery for your needs, start by determining how much time you will be boondocking or dry camping. Then identify what components you will be running and for how long.  Any appliance that uses LP such as the refrigerator, stovetop, oven, and water heater will use 12-volt power, however, they will not be running full time.  Items like interior lights, roof vent fans, and water pump will also need to be factored in.

If you are going to be camping with access to an electrical source, you can get by with a small group or amp hour battery and save some money as your converter will recharge your batteries.

Here are some typical 12-volt components and the amp draw from them

  • Incandescent Lights = 1.5 amps
  • Halogen Lights = 1 amp
  • LED Lights = .12 amp
  • Smoke Alarm = 1 amp
  • CO Detector = 1 amp
  • LP Leak Detector = 1 amp
  • Furnace = 10-12 amps
  • Water Pump = 5 amps
  • Refrigerator on LP Mode = 2-3 amps
  • Stove Top = 1 amp
  • Roof Vent = 3 amps

As you can see, there are several factors in what usage you might have in your rig, especially if you are camping in cold weather.  It’s not uncommon for a smaller rig to have a 10-15 amp draw which means you will only get about 4 hours with a group 24 battery! Here is the math:

80 amp hour battery x 50% = 40 amp hours

40 amp-hours / 10 amps drawn every hour = 4 hours of battery life

The more you use and the longer you need to stay out before recharging with either a generator or solar panels, the more amp hours you will need.

One other important item to consider when looking for the best battery for your application is the quality of the battery.  Several discount franchises offer a cheap “Marine/RV” deep cycle battery and the only feature of those batteries is the cheap price.  They are made with thinner plates, insufficient lead oxide paste and acid ratios, and inferior welds on intercell connections.  In short, they sulfate faster and go bad with dead cells and less storage quicker.  I would recommend getting a battery endorsed by the RV industry such as Trojan, Lifeline, and even NAPA batteries are being used with much success. Take some time researching the information on the website about thicker positive plates used and superior workmanship and you’ll find you get what you pay for.

In summary, the best battery for your application is not a simple answer, rather a calculation in the way you are planning to RV.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

02 Friday Oct 2020

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

One of the main reasons people get RVs is electricity. Being able to run an air conditioner, make coffee, and use a microwave while camping is a huge plus. If misused, however, electricity can be dangerous. It is important to remember that the electrical system in your RV is not exactly like the one in a “sticks and bricks” home. Let’s take a look at some RV electrical safety tips to ensure you have a safe and comfortable RVing adventure.

Check your plug and socket before plugging in.

Before plugging your RV into anything, you should take a look at your plug. Look at all of the prongs and note if there are any scorch marks or damage. Make sure there are no chips or missing parts on the prongs. If there are, it may indicate that you had plugged into a socket that caused enough arcing to damage the prongs at one point.

Arcing causes heat, so check the plastic/rubber around your plug. Check for any scorch marks or evidence that melting has occurred. If any part of the plug has melted, then you know at some point, that plug got hot. Loose connections in park receptacles is a common fault that causes heat.

It is not unusual for plugs and even cords to wear out over time, and you may notice a small amount of warping where the prongs meet the body of the plug. If there is a lot of damage and you are not knowledgeable with electrical wiring, you should have a technician take a look at the plug. External plugs and wires are usually easy and quick for a qualified person to replace.

In addition to your plug, you should inspect the socket you are about to plug your RV into. Look for scorch marks, broken pieces of the socket, etc. If there is any indication that the socket has passed its useful life, let the park know. In many cases, they will be able to move you, or they may have someone on staff replace the socket with a new one.

Make sure the park is safe to plug into.

Whenever you plug your RV into a power pedestal at a park, you are trusting that their system is up to code and functioning normally. The potential danger and liability of improperly wired or faulty electrical components prompt many parks to ensure their electrical system is worked on by professionals. There are always exceptions to the rule, and after full-time RVing for over six years now, I have learned that just because a park looks well taken care of doesn’t mean that is the case.

Many products allow you to check the wiring of a socket you are about to plug into. Many of the inexpensive RV surge protectors will tell you if the wiring is correct. The inexpensive ones won’t stop you from using a socket with faulty wiring, but it will inform you about it.

circuit analyzer

This inexpensive circuit analyzer can be found on Amazon for around $55. It offers some surge protection as well.

There are more expensive systems that are called EMSs, which stand for electronic management system. Check out 5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS if you are interested in learning more about the different types of wiring faults and EMSs. Regardless of what method you use, to prevent injury or damage to your RV, make sure the outlet you are plugging into is wired correctly.

Use the right cord.

So let’s say you are visiting friends or family, and one of them has told you to park your RV in the driveway for a free spot. When you arrive, you find the closest power receptacle is about 50 feet away. Your friend offers you a 50-foot extension cord intended to be used in a standard 20 amp household plug. You thank your friend and pull out your plug adapter.

5 Electrical Safety Tips For RVers

The 30 amp-male to 15 amp-female plugs are great and can be easily found on Amazon. Just remember they are only to be used for 15 amps or less.

This scenario is common and can result in damaged equipment if you are not careful. A typical household extension cord is only intended to run about 15 to 20 amps. That means that you are not going to be able to run all of the appliances you regularly use. Trying to pull too much power from an inappropriately rated cord can cause heat. Heat can melt things and even cause fires.

Watch your amps.

It is important to have an idea of how many amps you are running at one time, especially if you have a 30 amp RV or are plugged into a 30 amp socket. The cheapest way to do this is to know how many watts you have available to use. Below are common breaker amperage ratings and their max wattage on a standard 120-volt socket.

  • 15 amp = 1,800 watts
  • 20 amp = 2,400 watts
  • 30 amp = 3,600 watts
  • 50 amp = 12,000 watts

Most appliances have their wattage written on them somewhere. If you add up all the appliance wattage you have running at once, you can tell how close to your limit you are getting. You may notice that there is quite a jump in available watts when you go from 30 amp to 50 amp. That is because there are actually two 50 amp lines on a 50 amp hookup.

When my wife and I first started RVing, we put little red stickers on all appliances that took 1000 watts and over to run, including the air conditioner. We have a 30 amp RV, so our rule was no more than two 1000+ watt appliances could be run at once.

In addition to not going over your available wattage/amps, you don’t want to consistently push your RV to the limit. This can wear down motors in things like fans and air conditioners, but it can also cause a lot of heat and damage things like plugs and cords. If you want to learn about the formulas used to calculate wattage and more details about how a 30 amp and 50 amp RV system work, I wrote an in-depth article on that here.

Monitor your voltage.

Just like keeping track of your amp/watt usage, it is a good idea to monitor the voltage being supplied to your RV. Appliances can be damaged if the voltage is too high or too low. A quality EMS will prevent dangerous voltage levels from being used in your RV, but they are not cheap.

For those on a budget, a simple voltage monitoring device can be plugged into a wall socket and checked periodically. Most RV parks will not have a problem with the voltage being too high, but you should not run electronics if your voltage starts reading lower than 110.

Volt Meter

A simple digital AC voltmeter that can be found on Amazon.

Electricity is an integral part of our lives. It is easy to forget that it can be a dangerous force when not used properly. Keeping these safety tips in mind may help keep you and your RV safe.

About The Author: Natalie Henley and her husband, Levi, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years.  They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com.

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5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS

09 Wednesday Sep 2020

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips

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5 Reasons Every RVer Should Invest in a Surge Protector/EMS

The electrical system in your RV is considered by many to be the most important part of their rig. The A/C, microwave, TV, and all the other appliances depend on electricity. What many people don’t think about is that those systems all rely on that electricity to be delivered properly.

There is always the possibility of lightning or powerline issues, causing a surge of power that can wreak havoc on your appliances and electrical system. RV parks can be a gamble when it comes to wiring too. You never know who may have wired the pedestal you are about to plug into.  Many RVers are familiar with the basic RV surge protectors that you can get for $100.

Most of those have an indicator to tell you of potential wiring problems, which can be a big help. They will not prevent power pedestals with wiring issues from sending that power to your RV. Their only saving function is to divert large voltage surges to the ground before they get sent to your RV. They have a lifespan of how many times they can protect you too.

An RV EMS surge protector or electronic management system is the safest option when it comes to protecting your RV electrical system and all of the appliances. Below are five reasons why every RVer should have one.

1. They Protect From Power Surges And Drops.

Power surges happen for several reasons. Lightning is the first thing that comes to people’s minds, but we create small surges every time we turn an electrical device on or off. When it is just us in our home, we generally don’t turn things on and off too frequently or at the same time.

Power Surge

An older RV park may share all of its power posts with one transformer. Imagine the RV park is a house, and every RVer is an occupant in it. You may have 50 or more electrical devices in the form of washers, dryers, air conditioners, coffee makers, TVs, and many others being switched on and off constantly and at the same time. You will inevitably get some voltage fluctuations. It is important to note that not all RV parks are poorly wired or fit the wiring description above. It isn’t necessarily possible to tell though, while you are plugging your RV into their park.

Sometimes those fluctuations will come in the form of an increase of voltage for a fraction of a second. Others will be the opposite, and your voltage will drop to unsafe levels temporarily. It is even possible for too many high power devices to cause an extended voltage drop to the whole park. Both voltage spikes and drops cause damage to electronics. It may not destroy them right away, but it can shorten the lifespan of the device considerably.

A quality EMS/surge protector will detect these changes in voltage and cut power to the RV if the voltage falls out of safe levels. Unlike a basic surge protector, EMS systems will not only protect your RV from high voltage, but it will also prevent damage from low voltage.

Surge Protector

Portable EMS systems like the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X Portable RV Surge Protector require no setup. Just plug it into the power post.

 

2. They Can Prevent You From Plugging Into An Incorrectly-Wired Socket.

Sometimes a power surge is not your issue. Some parks have relied on unqualified workers to rewire plugs and even power pedestals. Other parks have old wiring in need of an update. It is possible to have a host of wiring issues at a campground.

Open Ground: This happens when the park’s power post is not properly grounded. The purpose of a ground wire is to send stray voltage into the ground to prevent electrical shock in the event of electrical leakage. Say a wire somewhere was nicked. A properly grounded system would send any stray electricity to the ground.

An improperly grounded system or open ground system can send stray voltage into your chassis or RV shell. Stepping on the steps or even touching your door handle, in that case, could result in a dangerous shock.

Open Neutral: In this scenario, the white or neutral wire in the socket is open or not connected. This can happen due to mistakes in wiring or old sockets. If you plug a 30 amp RV into a socket with an open neutral condition, you can still receive a shock from the sockets, but nothing will work.

Power Surge

If you have a 50 amp RV, however, the plug will go from carrying 120 volts through two prongs to potentially carrying up to 240 volts to part of your RV. This voltage can kill most electronics in your RV rather quickly.

Reverse Polarity: An unqualified electrician may accidentally cross the white and black wires of a socket. This is known as reverse polarity. Plugging into a plug that is wired this way can damage equipment.

An EMS will not only tell you when these faults are present, but it also will not let electricity go into the RV. Most will allow electricity to come back on after about two minutes, provided that the fault is taken care of.

3. Some Can Be Mounted Inside An RV To Prevent Theft.

One of the biggest problems people have with plug and play surge protectors, as well as plug and play EMSs, is the fact that they are easily stolen. It makes sense; it’s a high dollar item that is easy to take. Fortunately, some EMS models, like the Progressive Industries HW30C 30 Amp Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector, along with the 50 amp version, are meant to be mounted inside the RV as a permanent install. This not only ensures electrical protection regardless of how you plug your RV in, but it prevents would-be thieves from walking away with it.

Indoor-Mounted Surge Protector

The Progressive Industries HW30C mounts inside your RV and has a remote digital display.

4. Many Come With An Amperage Meter Display.

If you have a 30 amp RV, or if you have a 50 amp and are plugged into a 30 amp, you know the pain of always worrying about running too many things at once. You may wonder at times how many amps you are running on average. Fortunately, many EMS systems have an amperage display so you can keep track of how close you are to maxing-out your RV’s electrical system.

5. They Are Less Expensive Than Replacing Your RV Electrical System And Devices.

Many people shy away from the $300-$400 price tag of EMS/surge protectors. That is until they start adding up the cost of replacing all of the electrical components. Imagine replacing your microwave, TV, laptops, air conditioner, and other electronic devices. That alone will cost at least a couple thousand dollars. We haven’t even discussed replacing broken components in your RV electrical system due to faulty wiring and power issues at an RV park. Ultimately, it’s cheaper to be on the safe side and keep your RV’s electrical system protected.

 

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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Pamela C. ~ “I received RV tech support that was excellent! Leonard was awesome. He had me send him pics of our issue while on the phone so he could walk me through what we needed. So helpful!” 

The RV Electrical System – Part 3

10 Tuesday May 2016

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Electricity Part 3 In part 3 of this four-part series regarding your RV electrical system, we will be discussing system troubleshooting.  In case you missed Part 1 and Part 2, be sure to check them out too.

Given the importance of the RV electrical system, and the fact that many electrical problems can be fixed with a little knowledge and the right equipment, I highly recommend all RV owners invest in a digital multi-tester. They are inexpensive and invaluable when tracing power problems. If you don’t have a meter, they can be purchased from a local home improvement or electronics store or found online. If you don’t know how to use one, a wealth of information can be found on the internet.

If you have problems with a 12V component in the RV, the first thing to check is the fuse protecting that circuit. Most fuses are mounted together in the power distribution center. It is important that RV owners know where the fuses and breaker panel is located. It is sometimes difficult to tell with the naked eye whether a fuse is blown, so it is always a good idea to “ohm” out a fuse with a multi-tester to determine if it is blown. Some 12V systems have inline fuses, so if you can’t find the fuse for a given circuit in the fuse panel, search for an inline fuse. Multi testerInline fuses are required to be installed within 18 inches of the batteries, so you can often find inline fuses near the batteries.

Make sure you locate a fuse for any 12V system you are troubleshooting, as that is the most common cause of failure. Be aware that a single fuse may protect more than one device. If the fuse isn’t blown (be sure to check it with a meter), look for loose or broken wires. This can be difficult, but once again, a meter comes in very handy to probe the voltage along the wire. Since the wiring is often hidden behind walls and other structural members, access will be limited. The best thing to do is check for voltage at the effected device, such as the water pump. If you have voltage there, but the device isn’t working, it is likely the device has failed. If you don’t have voltage there, check for voltage at the switch or control board. It is also important to check the battery voltage, as low voltage can cause intermittent and random problems. Most 12V devices will not function below about 10.5V.

So, when troubleshooting 12V problems, first check the voltage at the batteries and/or converter. If the coach is plugged in and the converter is functioning, the battery voltage should be over 13V. Next, locate and check the fuse. Probe the failed device to see if it is getting voltage. Finally, probe for voltage at other obvious locations along the line, such as switch and control board. If you can’t identify the problem, seek out the assistance of an RV service center. If you lose all your 12V circuits, first check the battery voltage. If you are plugged in to shore power and you lose your battery voltage, check your converter fuses and breaker. The converter will have a breaker on the output and fuses on the input. If the converter is separate from the power distribution panel, it will likely be installed behind a coach wall (likely behind the breaker panel), and will have to be accessed to check the fuses. If the breaker and fuses are okay, your converter may need to be replaced.

Next week I will finish this series with a continuation of electrical troubleshooting

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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The RV Electrical System – Part 2

04 Wednesday May 2016

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Electricity Part 2This article is the second part of my electrical system primer. This week I will cover the 120V AC system.

When not plugged into shore power, the batteries will power your DC house system directly. As mentioned last week, these systems include, among other things, coach interior lights, bathroom and vent fans, furnace, slide-out and leveling systems, and direct ignition gas appliances. RV Converter When the coach is plugged in, the shore power is shared between the 120V AC appliances and the converter or inverter. Most coaches, except after-market installs and high-end diesels, utilize converters.

Converters come in many forms, and combine with the AC breakers and DC fuses to create the coach power distribution center. When the coach is plugged into shore power these components combine to serve three distinct purposes; the converter section takes some of the AC power from the shore line, converts it to 12V DC, and uses it to charge the batteries, while providing the coach with power for the DC appliances through the 12V fuse panel. The distribution section acts much the same as the breaker panel in your house, as it sends 120V AC to the house appliances through the breaker panel.

Inverters work the opposite way, in that they take 12V DC from the batteries and step it up to 120V AC. There are many different types of inverters, from the simple to the more complex that include battery charging functionality. Inverters even in their simplest form are fairly complex devices that require professional servicing should anything go wrong. As such, they will not be discussed in further detail here.

If your coach has a generator, there is a further element to consider. Once again, generator problems are outside the scope of this article, but there are some things to check if you have power problems with the generator that don’t occur with shore power, or vice-versa. If you have AC power while on shore power, Transfer switch but not on generator, the first thing to check is the circuit breakers on the generator. Many users may not be aware that the generator has its own circuit breakers. Locate these breakers, which usually consist of a 20A and 30A breaker, and make sure they are not tripped.

If you don’t have to plug your shore power cord into a separate generator receptacle, you may have a problem with the transfer switch. The transfer switch allows the coach to be powered off shore power or generator, but never both at the same time. As well, it automatically switches between the two. The transfer switch incorporates relays to switch the power, and it is not uncommon for these relays to fail open or closed, which results in the shore power or generator power not functioning properly. The transfer switch is often a black plastic box with three sets of AC wiring entering it. Issues with no AC power while on generator and/or shore power may be related to the transfer switch. Another possible cause of complete lack of AC power may simply be a tripped breaker in the main panel. As mentioned earlier about the generator, it is a good preliminary check to ensure all breakers are in the “on” position before seeking professional help.

Next week I will continue the discussion on AC power and troubleshooting.

About the Author: 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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