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RV Oven And Stove Top Maintenance and Troubleshooting

01 Wednesday Dec 2021

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When I was traveling full time in a Winnebago motorhome training dealers across the country, the stovetops and ovens were pretty simple and there were only a couple of models, Magic Chef, and Atwood. But just like everything else in the RV industry dozens of models have come and gone over the years and today, there are dozens of brands available such as Furrion, Recpro, Suburban, and Dometic which now owns Atwood which also owns Wedgewood, and many more.

A major shift in the industry that I have noticed in the past decade is the use of more residential appliances and furnishing especially since the slide rooms provide more space for the larger items such as residential refrigerators and electric stovetops and ovens although they take an enormous amount of electricity so the old propane models are still the majority that I have seen.

For this article, we will focus on the propane model stovetop and oven combination. The first step in any appliance maintenance and troubleshooting is to understand the operation and lighting sequence. Your main LP regulator at the LP container will reduce the pressure supplied to the rig to 11” of the water column. Most RV stovetops and ovens have an internal regulator that will reduce that down to 10” of water column to a manifold. This manifold has the control knob attached to it and in the case of the stovetop, delivers LP to the burner assembly. The rate of flame or temperature is regulated by the operator turning the knob to the desired height. In the case of the oven, the temperature is set at the knob and a thermostat regulates the flow of LP to the desired temperature to the burner tube.

The oven pilot must be lit before the burner assemble will light. Typically pressing the oven knob in will supply lp to the pilot assembly which must be lit manually and stay lit for at least 30 seconds until the flame reaches and heats the thermocoupler. This pushes a magnet in which is a safety feature in case the flame goes out. The thermostat senses temperature and some models have a temperature bulb in the back of the oven called a mini bulb. Once the thermocouple senses a flame, LP flows to the burner assembly and is lit by the pilot light. If the flame and the pilot light go out, the magnet drops and shut off LP to the oven. The thermostat senses temperature from the temperature bulb in the back of the oven.

For the stovetop, simply press in and turn the knob and turn the ignitor if your model has one, or manually light the burner with a long match or butane stick lighter. Keep in mind the burner assembly does not have a thermocoupler so the LP will continue to flow if the knob is open and there is no flame! I have leaned against a knob in units and smelled the distinct rotten egg smell in the past! Make sure the knob is in the off and locked position when not in use.

Stovetop Maintenance

Compared to other appliances, there is little maintenance required with an LP stovetop/oven combination other than keeping it clean. Some stovetop models have a sealed burner assembly which means the metal cover comes all the way around the burner so food can not spill over into the burner area. Periodically inspect the burner orifice to ensure nothing is spilled over and clogging which can affect performance or even start on fire.

Troubleshooting The Stove Top

If the stovetop will not light with the piezo or spark assist, verify there is LP coming to the burner by trying to light it manually with a butane lighter. If it lights, the piezo is either defective or has a cracked ceramic case which will send the spark through the crack rather than to the burner. Visually inspect the piezo for spark attempt.

If the burner does not light manually and has no LP flowing to the burner check another burner to verify LP flow. If there is LP flow to another burner, check the supply tube to the affected burner and clean. If not, check to make sure the knob is actually opening on the stovetop and the valve is on at the LP container. Often times there is an in-line shut-off valve to LP appliances that should also be checked. If all these steps are verified, check another LP appliance to verify the main regulator is working properly. If it is, there is an issue with the LP supply line to the stovetop. Some models have an air shutter that can be adjusted. Check with your owner’s manual. It is also a good idea to check connections for leaks with an approved LP leak solution. Do not use soap and water as some detergents can cause corrosion to the metal.

If the burner lights, but the flame is yellow and “jumping” the LP pressure is too high and needs to be tested and adjusted by a certified technician with a water column tester first at the stovetop regulator and then the main LP regulator at the container.

If the burner lights but the flame is too small, verify the knob is actually turning to the higher position first, then check for insufficient pressure again by a certified technician. If other burners are working correctly, clean the supply tube or replace the knob/valve.

Troubleshooting The Oven

If the pilot does not light, check for leaks at the pilot supply tube, check LP pressure at the oven regulator, and then the main LP container regulator. Inspect and clean the pilot assembly to ensure LP is flowing to the pilot. If the pilot lights but does not stay lit after 30 seconds verify the thermocoupler is positioned properly and the flame is reaching it.

If the pilot stays lit but the oven will not light, verify LP flow to the burner assembly and adjust the air shutter if applicable. Also, have LP pressure tested by a certified technician with a water column tester.

If the oven lights, but has low flame and low temperature, test LP pressure at the regulator and burner assembly. Low pressure at the burner assembly would indicate a valve not opening.

If the oven has low temperatures or uneven heat it may be as simple as poor air circulation inside the oven. There must be at least 1” space on all sides from items cooking inside the oven. There are also ventilation holes at the bottom that can get clogged with food drippings and must be cleaned out as well as the top vents. Do not cover the bottom of the racks with aluminum foil to catch drippings! Check your owner’s manual for specifics to your model.

Intermittent Operation of Both

If the stovetop and or oven work for a short period of time but then fail, it could either be insufficient LP pressure or low 12-volt power. This is what we call “gremlins” during troubleshooting as they sometimes can not be replicated in the service department! All LP appliances need 12-volt DC power to open gas valves and run the thermostats. This power is supplied by the deep cycle house batteries which are also supplying other appliances and items like lights and fans. If the batteries are sulfated or the converter/charger can not keep up, the battery bank drains down and will shut off the LP supply at the valve. Typically this only happens with the oven as it has the thermocoupler and thermostat.

If your main LP container regulator is getting weak, it might be able to supply enough pressure (11” WC) to the stovetop/oven regulator however if the water heater or refrigerator kicks in, the regulator might not be able to provide enough LP pressure to all the appliances? This would require using a pressure tester and turning on several appliances at once to verify proper pressure during extreme use situations.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Thomas P. ~ “Your agents were exceptional! Service was great from beginning to end!”

Pure Sine Wave Versus Modified Sine Wave Inverters

07 Wednesday Jul 2021

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An inverter allows you to use your RV batteries to run AC appliances. They come in all sizes, and systems can be built to run everything from desk fans to air conditioners (if you have the battery power). All inverters are not equal, however. There are a few ways that these devices turn the DC power from your batteries into AC, and not all of them work well on all devices.

What is a sine wave?

Source

The image above shows a sine wave. It’s a wave that oscillates between positive and negative numbers at the same rate over time. The next question is, how does that relate to electricity?

Direct current, or DC, flows in one direction through a circuit. To put it another way, when you hook up a battery to a lightbulb, the power flows out of the battery, in one end of the light, out the other end, and then follows the wire back into the battery. Graphing this electrical flow over time would result in a straight line.

Alternating current, or AC, moves both forward and backward. In other words, the power alternates direction. Keeping the graph above in mind, imagine the wavy line as electricity moving forward through a wire, then slowing to a stop, and then starting to move backward faster and faster until it reaches the opposite stopping point. This process happens over and over again. It’s kind of like rubbing your hands back and forth to create heat. The graph is a visual representation of that AC power sloshing back and forth.

The reason DC and AC differ in how they move has to do with how the power is typically generated. There is no need to go into detail about the mechanics of generating electricity, though. The main point here is that some electrical devices in our RVs like computers, LED lights, and phones run off DC power. Appliances like coffee makers, microwaves, fans, phone wall chargers, and TVs all require AC power in some capacity to function.

Unless you have a generator, which produces AC power, you are stuck with DC power from your RV’s batteries when your RV isn’t plugged in. An inverter will convert DC from your batteries into AC so that you can run AC appliances from your DC batteries.

How An Inverter Works

Imagine you have a flashlight powered by one battery. Since a battery is DC, the current will flow in one direction through the light to power it. Imagine you quickly take the battery out, flip it around, and put it back in the flashlight. The light would still work, but the current would be flowing in the opposite direction. If you could flip that battery around repeatedly at around 50 times a second, the current direction would be alternating.

That is precisely how a basic mechanical alternator works. Unfortunately, this method doesn’t produce a smooth sine wave because instead of the current gradually changing direction, it does so abruptly. The resulting wave looks like a square wave.

Source

A square wave will run AC devices, but many of them don’t like it. Things with motors tend to overheat, and electronic devices with a computer chip may not function at all. Fortunately, you won’t find inverters that produce a simple square wave for the most part.

Most modern inverters use various electrical components to produce what is called a “modified sine wave.” In essence, they try to gradually alternate current directions like true AC. The resulting graph looks more like a stair-step pattern.

Source

As you can see from the photo above, the modified sine wave looks a little bit like the pure sine wave pictured above. If your electrical device doesn’t need a pure sine wave inverter, such as an incandescent lightbulb, a heater, a toaster, or any other device that doesn’t really care what the quality of current is, then a modified sine wave inverter works great.

Unfortunately, when it comes to electronic devices such as computers, fluorescent lighting, speakers, AC motors (fans, refrigerators, air compressors), and some CPAP machines, a modified sine wave inverter doesn’t work as well. Aside from flickering lights and wacky computer issues, a modified sine wave inverter causes many devices to run inefficiently. In other words, power is lost in the form of heat. The result of devices running hot is a reduced lifespan.

Pure Sine Wave Inverters

A pure sine wave inverter, like the name implies, uses more expensive components that duplicate the pure sine wave that you would find coming out of a household plug. Anything you can run with a household plug will run just fine with a pure sine wave inverter.

Which one should you get?

It’s probably apparent by now that a pure sine wave inverter is the better of the two. Unfortunately, it is also the more expensive of the two. If you already have an inverter in your RV and are unsure of what type it is, your manual should tell you. If you don’t have a manual, you can always find the make and model on the device and google it to find out.

If you have a modified sine wave inverter, take a look at how you use it. Computers are probably not a good idea, but devices like laptop plugs that convert AC to DC with a rectifier will work fine. The disadvantage is it may wear out your laptop charger. If you run fans, fridges, or other devices with an AC motor using your modified sine wave inverter, they can prematurely wear. If you travel with a CPAP machine, make sure you confirm that it will run with a modified sine wave inverter, as some don’t.

Bottom Line

Upgrading to a pure sine wave inverter is the optimal choice, but most RVers can run many of the things they need with a cheaper modified sine wave inverter if it’s not in your budget. They just have to be aware of what they are plugging into it.

RV Technical Assistance Hotline

Basic electrical issues and other problems are common, and not everyone is an RV repair expert. However, did you know that your Coach-Net Premier Plan comes with access to the RV Technical Hotline? It’s available to you 24/7 to guide you through many common operational issues. Call the Roadside Assistance phone number on your member card to be connected to a technician.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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David O. ~ “I was stranded miles from anywhere and the help and service was truly amazing. So thankful for the high level of service”

How A VPN Can Keep RVers Safe on The Internet

16 Wednesday Jun 2021

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With email scams and high-profile hacks making the news as of late, some RVers may wonder if their data is safe when they connect to the internet. Large companies store our data and know more about us than we do. It is also legal for your internet service provider (ISP) to not only log but sell your browsing data to advertisers. Because we use a combination of public WiFi and our phones to connect to the net, RVer’s data is vulnerable in many ways. Before going into what a VPN is and how it can help keep you safe, let’s dive into the vulnerabilities.

ISP Data Collection

It is easy to think that your ISP is just selling a list of your browsing history for companies to pour-over. Unfortunately, for most companies interested in your data, that list isn’t all that helpful. It’s what browsing history can tell them. You may not know it but how you conduct yourself on the internet says more about you than just the sites you visit. Below is a screenshot of some of the data Google has collected about me.

Most of those categories and interests can be gathered by anyone who knows me. I assume data mining companies like google would know I have an interest in politics and the outdoors. But oddly, I have never told Google I don’t have children. I don’t search the internet for not having children. How do they know?

No one except for a select few knows precisely what Google’s data mining algorithms look like, but clicking the category gives us a little insight.

As you can see, though I never said it directly to Google or made searches for it, Google’s software could connect the dots.

A VPN won’t stop Google from logging your searches if you are logged into your google account or using chrome. However, if Google can figure out every aspect of your life and personality with limited access to your data, imagine what your ISP can collect and sell about you. They are the gatekeepers of all of your internet activity. They may know private information about your health, finances, and family.

To add to this problem, Google stores the information about you somewhere. So does your ISP. By allowing these companies to create this file on you, you have to trust their ability to keep it secure from hacks. Some of the high-profile data breaches of the recent past have shown that they can’t always keep your data safe.

Public WiFi Dangers

When you connect to a public WiFi network, such as at a coffee shop, RV park, or airport, you join a network. Imagine every RV using park WiFi is connected with invisible wires. That means, in theory, all data going from your laptop, phone, or smart TV can be intercepted before it leaves the park’s router.

Some public networks are very insecure, and this data interception can be done easily with a smartphone. This can leave any information you send over public networks vulnerable to hackers attempting to steal information about you. There are security measures that many sites like banks and email take to encrypt the data you put into them. Much of that relies on the security measures the site your visiting takes.

How A VPN Works

In short, a VPN or virtual private network creates an encrypted connection to the VPN company’s server. When you choose to go to coach-net.com using a WiFi connection in a standard internet connection, your data makes several stops before returning a response. But the simple version is the ISP contacts the server where the information you want is stored and returns the response to the park’s router. The router gets the information back to your specific device by assigning you a unique address known as a local IP address.

There are several ways a hacker might intercept this information. Most of them involve finding ways to trick your system or the park’s into running all the data through their device first. Most major VPN companies use sophisticated methods of swapping encryption keys to ensure you are connected to their server, and your connection is encrypted.

Once you have a connection to the VPN network, all communication to websites and the internet goes first through the VPN and is encrypted. This hides your internet traffic from your ISP and hackers. Anyone attempting to intercept the information will get a bunch of gibberish that would take thousands of years to crack, even with the most sophisticated computer systems.

How To Get A VPN

Remember that when you use a VPN company, you are sending your data through their servers. So make sure the company you are using has a good reputation and doesn’t log traffic. It is a good idea to stay away from free VPNs, as many of those log data to make their money.

A few of the top VPNs on the market today are ExpressVPN, NordVPN, and Hotspot Shield. All of them are fast, secure, and easy to use. For the most part, all you have to do is sign up, download the software, and press a button to turn it on when you browse the internet.

A Coach-Net plan can offer peace of mind and prevent you from being stuck on the road. Using a VPN while on the net can do the same for your sensitive data.

About The Author: Levi Henley

Levi Henley and his wife, Natalie, have been full-time RVers for over 5 years. They have also been Coach-Net customers for the same amount of time.  They travel and workcamp around the U.S. in their 26-foot Itasca Sunstar motorhome with their two cats.  They write for multiple RV-related publications and recently co-wrote “Seasonal Workamping for a Living: How We Did It.” You can follow their adventures on the road at henleyshappytrails.com 

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5 RV Air Conditioner Tips for Summer Camping

03 Thursday Jun 2021

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RV camping is awesome because it allows you to get out into nature while still staying comfortable. No matter where you go, you’ll have your bed, a bathroom, and even a kitchen in tow. Not only that, you’ll also have a furnace for when it gets cold—and for those hot summer months that are just around the corner, an air conditioner. That’s what we’re going to be talking about today.

For the most part, using your RV air conditioner is pretty straightforward. Turn it on, adjust the thermostat if you have one, and let it do its thing. That said, there are some things you should know about RV air conditioners before you set out on your first summer camping trip. Knowing these things will help you keep your RV A/C in tip-top shape for years to come.

Check the Shroud

If you look at your air conditioner from the outside of the rig, the first thing you’ll see is not the A/C itself, but the plastic shroud that goes over it. Many people believe these shrouds are just for looks, but this isn’t the case at all. These covers actually do the very important job of keeping dirt and debris out of the A/C. Since a dirty air conditioner won’t work well, you definitely want your shroud to be in good shape.

The unfortunate thing is that because these A/C covers are plastic, the hot sun often causes them to become brittle. Once this happens, something as simple as camping in high winds or driving under low-hanging branches can break the shroud.

For this reason, we recommend visually inspecting your RV A/C cover at least a couple times a year to ensure it’s still doing its job well.

Care for the Coils

If you remove the A/C shroud, you’ll notice a set of metal coils on the air conditioner. These coils must be clean and straight in order to work effectively. Unfortunately, fine dust can sneak through the cover, creating a dirty coating on the coils. Additionally, the coils can very easily become bent out of shape.

To combat these problems and keep your A/C up and running, you will want to inspect the coils a couple of times a year. You can gently vacuum them, spray them clean with a spray bottle of water with a few drops of mild soap, and straighten the coils carefully with a fin comb when necessary.

Clean the Filter

If you head inside your RV and look up at the A/C unit, you’ll notice a removable plastic cover. Just inside this cover, at the air intake, is an air conditioner filter that can become quite dirty quite fast.

Obviously, if your filter is dirty enough to block airflow, the A/C unit won’t be able to function properly. It’s incredibly important that you clean or replace your air conditioner filter at least once every 6 months, and even more often if you use the A/C on a regular basis.

These filters can be washed in warm water with gentle soap a few times before they must be replaced by a new filter. If you can’t find a filter in the correct size when it does come time to replace it, you can purchase a larger filter and simply cut it to size.

Park in the Shade

RVs aren’t the most well insulated things in the world, and a small RV air conditioner has to work hard to lower the temperature even just 10 or 15 degrees. In fact, no RV A/C is made to lower the room temperature more than 16 degrees below the outside temperature.

With this in mind, it’s in your best interest to park in the shade if you can, where the temperature can be as much as 20 degrees lower than if the rig was parked in full sunlight. This will help keep your home-on-wheels as cool as possible without overworking your air conditioner.

Ensure You Have Enough Power

Finally, it is very important that you ensure you have enough power before running your A/C.

An air conditioner compressor requires quite a lot of power as it kicks on (after which it drops off a bit), and attempting to go through this process while plugged into a 15- or 20-amp outlet will eventually hurt your compressor and can be a fire hazard. The same can be said of attempting to start two A/C units simultaneously when plugged into 30-amp electric.

Instead, the two units should be started at different times, so they aren’t both drawing the max amount of electricity at the same time.

If you often find yourself in situations that require you to run your air conditioner when plugged into 20 amps or when using a smaller generator, you might consider investing in a “soft start” upgrade that makes this power draw more gradual rather than letting it happen all at once.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

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Things To Know Before You Get Into Hot Water-Water Heaters

03 Thursday Jun 2021

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Water heaters used in today’s RV have come a long way since the old manual start models.  There are also several types such as 6 gallon liquid propane (LP) fueled, 6 and 10 gallon LP and 120-Volt electric powered, and even on demand systems.  All these systems operate very similar to residential models and need little maintenance, however there are some things you need to understand to make them run more efficient and keep them running.

Winterizing

One of the most important aspects of a water heater is making sure you drain the water during storage and winterize it with either RV antifreeze or make sure there is no water in the tank and lines.  If water is in the tank and it freezes, it will split the inner tank and ruin it.  Typically there are two main water heater manufacturers, Suburban and Atwood.  Both have a drain plug that will allow you to drain the water.

This picture shows a typical Suburban water heater with a metal drain plug with an anode rod.  The anode rode acts as a sacrificial metal to prevent the tank from rusting.  The Suburban tank is aluminum and does not need the rod.  When draining the tank it a good idea to inspect the anode rod if your unit has one and replace it if it’s badly corroded.

Once the water is drained you will need to either fill the entire tank with RV Antifreeze or another method is to bypass the water heater and leave it empty. 

This valve diverts the water away from the system and allows you to fill all the remaining lines with RV antifreeze and not waste 6-10 gallons filling the tank.  If your system does not have a bypass valve, there are aftermarket kits that are easy to install.  The other option is to make sure all the water is removed not only from the tank, but also all the lines in the system.

If you are storing your rig in an area that is not cold it is still a good idea to drain the tank just in case and also to get rid of standing water that can eventually not only get very stale and smell bad, but can also create mold and mildew.

Dewinterizing

When you are ready to bring the unit back out of storage, make sure there is water in the tank before starting it up!  Running an electric water heater without a full tank will burn out the electric heating element.

Periodic Tank Maintenance

Since you will be using hard water from campground source a fair amount of the time, sediment such as calcium, rust, lime, and even sand can accumulate in the tank.  Therefore it’s a good idea to drain the tank and flush it periodically with fresh water and a garden hose.

If you detect a Sulphur or other bad smell, run the cold water first to determine if it’s coming from the fresh water tank.  Then run the hot and to isolate if it’s hot or cold.  To sanitize the hot water tank you can use chlorine bleach mixed to the recommendations on the side of the bottle, vinegar and water, or one of the various fresh water sanitizers available on the market.

It is also a good idea to periodically clean the burner assembly and air shutter tube.  Use an air compressor with a blow gun and make sure you wear safety glasses. 

Pilot Light Models

Inexpensive water heaters still require a manual lighting of a pilot light.  Refer to the original equipment (OEM) owner’s manual for this procedure.  Typically the procedure starts with making sure the propane tank valve is on and you have propane.  Turn the control knob to pilot.  This position is spring loaded so hold the control knob down and light with a long match or butane lighter with long extension and hold the knob down for approximately one minute or until it will stay lite.

Once the pilot stays on permanently, move the knob to the On position.  Some models also have a temperature knob that will allow you to set the desired temperature. 

Direct Ignition Start (DSI) Models

The DSI models are easy to start, simply verify the LP is on at the tank and push the On switch usually located at the monitor panel.  This activates the module board which is connected to the thermostat at the tank.  As the water temperature falls below the preset temperature, the module board opens the gas valve, starts the spark ignitor similar to what the pilot light would do, and starts the heater.  Once the water in the tank gets to the preset temperature it will shut off.

This photo shows the thermostat as well as the emergency cut off (ECO) switch in case the unit gets too hot.

Troubleshooting

If you notice water dripping or “weeping” out of the pressure relief valve located in the above photo with the yellow label, this is normal.  The tank should not reach over 210 degrees or 150 psi and if the system is running for a long period of time, it will typically reach 150 psi and simply “weep” out the additional pressure.  If it continues, the valve has either corroded or has become weak and defective.

In the case of a pilot light model water heater not functioning, first verify there is LP in the tank and the valve is on.  This can be determined by lighting another LP appliance such as the stove top.  Next, verify 12-volt power is coming to the module with a multimeter.  If the pilot light is working, and the water temperature is not hot, there typically is a temperature lever that you can adjust.  Check your owner’s manual for location and settings.  If the flame is not a consistent blue, check the air shutter to make sure it’s at the recommended opening.  Typically it should be 1/4 open, again check your owners manual.

The factory thermostat is typically 110-14- degrees, if the water temperature is not getting hot check your air shutter setting, burner assembly for blockage, improper burner adjustment, or blocked u-tube.For Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) Models, the thermostat is factory set at 140 degrees and is not adjustable.  The unit will start when the water temperature drops below 115 degrees and shuts off at 140 degrees.  This typically takes 20-25 minutes.  Some models do have an optional thermostat that can be adjusted from 110-150 degrees.   If the unit will not start check the following:

  • Gas present but no spark – check the wires connected to the circuit/module board to ensure they are tight, check the electrodes at the spark assembly, check gap at electrode-should be 1/8”, and verify the porcelain is not cracked and sending the spark to a ground source.  Otherwise the circuit board could be bad.
  • Spark present but no gas – verify the power coming to the circuit board is at least 10.5 v DC, clean the burner tube and orifice, check for loose wires at the ECO and T/Stat, verify gas valves are on and correct gas pressure is at 11” of water column.  A simple test for this is to start one burner on a stove top and verify a consistent blue flame, start a second and then a third.  If the flames flicker and are low, your LP pressure regulator is probably bad.
  • Insufficient or excessive water temperature – check to make sure the t/stat is properly seated to the tank, verify the burner assembly is working properly, if so, replace the t/stat.

If all above functions are working correctly, then it’s time to check the circuit or module board.  This should be done by a certified technician.

Here is a simple test procedure from Atwood:

  1. Check all wire connections
  2. Check the integrity and position of the spark probe assembly
  3. Check the alignment of the main burner to the orifice
  4. Check the alignment of the flame spreader on the burner tube
  5. Check the air adjustment
  6. Check the cleanliness of the orifice
  7. Check  for obstructions in the main burner tube
  8. Check the cleanliness of the flue tube
  9. Check the voltage to the valve
  10. Check the gas pressure of the RV
  11. Intermittent circuit board-if everything else checks out above, only then check the circuit board.  Make sure it is clean, all connections secure and is moisture free before changing it out.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

RV Protect

Dimperio C. ~ “A++ service! It is rare today to find an RV service plan that actually does what it says it will! We are very happy and impressed!” 

A Beginner’s Guide To HVACs For RVs

24 Wednesday Feb 2021

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A Beginner’s Guide To HVACs For RVs

Last year saw record numbers of people becoming proud RV owners, with more than 40,000 vehicles shipped in June 2020 alone. If you’re new to the RV lifestyle, you may be wondering where to start with some of the terminology and information on offer. This guide to HVACs is designed to give you the confidence to run and maintain these essentials so that you can brave winter chills and keep your cool in the summer with ease.

What’s an HVAC?

Your RV’s HVAC is the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning system, similar to what you may have at home. Part of the joy of RV ownership is the freedom it gives you to travel and explore: 90% of RV owners take three or more mini-breaks per year in all sorts of weather conditions, so it’s important to be able to keep the temperature to your liking. This leaves you feeling relaxed and comfortable enough to take in the views and make memories with your family in style.

Keeping Your Cool

Since 2020 saw one of the hottest summers on record, you may be most concerned with the air conditioning in your new RV. The unit for this is likely to be stored in a rooftop box, which maximizes space inside your vehicle. Air conditioning power is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). The higher the rating, the more powerful the air conditioning. Put simply, the system picks up hot air in the RV and passes it via refrigerants – chemical coolants – which take the heat from it. The process converts gases to liquids and vice versa, so it’s crucial that you clean the unit regularly to reduce the risk of mold building up inside. While you may find it helpful to fit a hygrometer to measure humidity (another factor for causing mold), your RV will already be fitted with a digital or analog thermometer. Some can be zoned so that the temperature in different parts of the RV can be controlled independently.

Winter adventures

Since many RV owners love to hit the road come rain or shine, spending three or four weeks a year in their vehicle, RVs are also equipped with heating and insulation to cope with colder weather. The warm air will either be produced by a heat pump, which uses electricity, or a furnace, which runs on propane. Your heat pump is likely to be located in the rooftop AC box. If you are camping somewhere with power, it can be a good idea to plug in and use your heat pump to save on propane, but in extreme cold, the furnace tends to be a more effective and efficient way to keep your RV cozy and warm.

Looking after your HVAC

While Coach-Net is always ready to help its members, with a little maintenance you can ensure that your RV is always as ready for adventures as you are. Use a handheld vacuum to clean dust from your HVAC’s vents regularly. For the AC unit, check for signs of fluid leakage, and ensure that you clean the filters regularly too. If your RV has a propane furnace, ensure that you have a carbon monoxide detector fitted in your vehicle and that the batteries are up to date. Finally, on the occasions when you are carrying out rooftop maintenance, keep an eye on the condition of the plastic casing in which the AC unit sits.

Owning an RV opens the door to all sorts of trips, but it can feel a little daunting as you get to grips with how best to take care of it.  Systems like your RV’s HVAC are there to make your journeys more comfortable, so it’s important to learn how to control the settings to your preferences, and to maintain the system so it can continue to look after you. Now, you’re free to explore – whatever the weather.

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What You Should Know About Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF)

06 Wednesday Jan 2021

Posted by in Tech Tips

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What You Should Know About Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF)

According to the information provided on a DEF container, Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) is for use in diesel engines equipped with Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) systems and is formulated to meet 2010 EPA regulations to reduce NOx emissions from diesel exhaust.  It is non-toxic, non-flammable, non-polluting, and meets ISO 22241 Specifications. But what does that mean to you as RVers?

DEF Can

In 2010, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) adopted new emission regulations requiring engine manufacturers to reduce harmful Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) and Particulate Matter (PM) in the exhaust of medium to heavy-duty vehicles.  At the time, most manufacturers turned to the Selective Catalytic Reduction method (SCR) which is a treatment used after the combustion in an exhaust chamber.  Some manufacturers such as Monaco and Navistar in particular elected to use a proprietary method known as Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR).  Just like it sounds, this system cools and recirculates the exhaust gas back to the engine to reduce NOx and PM.  After several years of testing and redesigning, the EGR system did not pass the emission standards and has gone by the wayside.  The SCR method allows engine manufacturers to tune the engines for the utmost fuel efficiency and power and treating the emissions downstream.

To be even more specific we consulted the Cummins Filtrations technicians, one of the leading manufacturers of diesel products for the RV industry.  They stated that DEF is 67.5% deionized water and 32.5% high purity urea which is a nitrogen compound that turns to ammonia when heated.  So basically a DEF dosing valve shoots the solution on the exhaust after the engine just before the catalyst where it vaporizes and decompresses to form ammonia and carbon dioxide which eventually turns the NOx to harmless nitrogen and water.

NOx sensors are located before dosing valve and after to monitor the incoming exhaust which will provide the appropriate amount of DEF to be applied and after to monitor the NOx level to determine it complies with EPA regulations.

Here are some common questions we receive on DEF:

How do I fill my DEF tank?

DEF is stored in a separate tank with the volume depending on the size of the vehicle.  Larger motorhomes will have large tanks that can be filled with bulk pumps at fueling stations while smaller vehicles such as diesel trucks used as tow vehicles have small tanks sometimes located under the engine hood.

DEF Storage Tank

If you have a larger motorhome, check to see if you have a filling spot on each side of your vehicle.  DEF fueling stations are usually just on the driver side which makes it hard to fill if your location is on the passenger side only.

DEF Fill Location on Passenger Side

Diesel Prices

DEF Nozzle

What happens if I run out of DEF?

You can not operate the vehicle without DEF!  Some models have an actual level gauge, others just have a warning light.  At 10% a warning light comes on, at 5% it starts to blink, at 2.5% it starts to flash and some motorhomes will have a buzzer.  When it is empty some vehicles go into a “limp” mode that only allows 5mph until the tank is full, others will not even start!

Where can I find it and what should I look for?

DEF has become more readily available today at fueling stations such as Flying J, Pilot, Bosselmans, and others.  It is also available at smaller stations and convenience stores such as Walmart, and most auto parts stores, as well as amazon.com

Does DEF have a shelf life?

DEF does have a shelf life, two years if it’s stored in a cool underground tank, but typically 6 months to one year in portable jugs.  Look for the date code stamped on the jug, if it does not have one, look elsewhere.  If the containers are exposed to the harsh sun most of the day above 86 degrees, it will reduce the shelf life to 6 months!  And always look for the American Petroleum Institute Certification Seal.

How much will I use and should I carry extra?

The amount of DEF applied depends on the amount of fuel you use or your vehicle’s miles per gallon.  Most tow vehicles such as a diesel truck will have a tank capacity of about 5-7 gallons and will get approximately 3500 miles per tank.  Larger units will have up to 10+ gallons capacity.  Most chassis manufacturers we have talked to indicate you will have approximately 2-3% usage.  So if you have a big rig that gets only 6 mpg, you will use 1 gallon every 300 miles.  Typically it’s a 50:1 ratio; for every 50 gallons of fuel, you will use 1 gallon of DEF.

Since it is so readily available, I would not suggest carrying extra containers as the liquid is corrosive to metal components even though it is non-toxic and non-flammable.  If a container were to rupture or freeze and split, the liquid could cause damage to metal components and wiring inside the compartment.  You can switch or mix brands if you find yourself needing some on the road and the nearest fueling station does not carry your brand. Do not reuse containers! Bulk DEF at the pumps is usually cheaper, however, reusing the containers could create problems with contaminants getting into the system from the used container.  When opening a new container, make sure all the protective foil under the cap is removed and does not go into the reservoir.  Also, make sure the paper or plastic seal inside the cap is in good condition and will not get into the fill neck.

Do I need gloves or protective clothing?

DEF is non-toxic, non-flammable, and typically is the least harmful of all the engine fluids.  However, it does have the chemical strength of household ammonia so if you are sensitive to a heavy cleaning agent, it’s a good idea to wear neoprene gloves.  If you spill some on your hands or clothing, simply wash it off with soap and water.

Can DEF freeze?

Yes, since DEF is 67.5% water, it will freeze at temperatures below 12 degrees F, however, most chassis manufacturers have designed a heating system for the tank and lines so it should thaw quickly and not affect performance.  Do not add any type of antifreeze or fuel additive to DEF in extreme temperatures!

What maintenance is required?

There is little maintenance other than using approved DEF and to make sure you do not get contaminants in the jug or funnel.  Some models have a filter or screen that can be removed, inspected, and cleaned yearly.  You can always check with your chassis manufacturer for recommendations.

Thank You To discoverdef.com and Cumminsfiltration.com

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair ClubRV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Coach-Net Camping: Terry, The RV Tech

06 Wednesday Jan 2021

Posted by in We Love It. We Live It.

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Camping With Coach-Net: Terry The RV Tech

Terry is still fairly new to our family here at Coach-Net! And although he joined us almost a year ago, he has over 40 years of experience in the RV industry which makes him an amazing asset to have on our team! He loves the outdoors, classic cars, riding his Harley, and helping RVers enjoy a carefree lifestyle on the road! He recapped his trip for us, here’s what he had to say!

My wife and I were able to take the Coach-Net Airstream to the Vineyards Campground & Cabins in Grapevine Texas. It is a beautiful facility on the shore of Lake Grapevine and is city-owned and maintained. Our site was by the lake which made it especially beautiful at night when the lights from the marina nearby shown atop the water. We enjoyed 3 nights there and met some kind people who were also enjoying the facilities and beautiful weather that weekend. Thankfully, the trip went smoothly with no challenges or mishaps and I was even able to do a little maintenance on the camper.

Sundown At The Campsite

During our trip, I was able to do a bit of fishing. While I had a line in the water, a little boy named Diego walked over to me. He was 6 years old and while I offered to let him fish he was content to just keep me company and ask questions kids will do. He wanted to keep the fish I caught as pets but I was able to convince him that we needed to toss them back so they would be able to enjoy life in the lake. He reminded me of when my boys were that age and it was nice to have him as a company.

Terry Fishing

It was a great weekend, but it ended too soon. My wife and I plan to go there again sometime, the facilities were very nice and the people working there were super. In the meantime, we would love to take a tour of our beautiful state of Texas and explore some of the out-of-the-way places that this state has to offer.

When our family was young I happened to drive past a farm not too far from the small town where we lived. They had a small and very old “turtle” camper in their yard with a for sale sign on it that said 200 dollars. I went up to the house and gave him the 20 dollars I had in my pocket and told him I would be right back with the rest and something to pull it with. I parked it in my back yard and spent the next few weeks remodeling the inside, adding plumbing and electricity. We used that little camper for many years while our kids were growing up and made many memories with it. I sold it after the kids went to college to a young family who said they were going to use it to make memories with their family as well. I’m glad it could go to a good home.

Terry & Friends Around The RV

While my ideal RV has two wheels, one seat, an engine, handlebars, and a bedroll on the back, my wife’s is a house on wheels with a bed and restroom. So if I expect her to come along with me, we do it the way she wants! It is nice to be able to pull into a rest area, campground, or Walmart and just cook supper, take a shower, watch some TV, and go to sleep.

Terry's Wife Next To The Airstream

I’ve been in the RV business for 40 + years in every part of the industry there is and can attest to the fact that there are thousands of folks that are hooked on the RV lifestyle. There is a freedom that comes with it that draws you in and holds you and won’t let you go. You can tell you’ve got the fever when even though you’re glad to be home from being on the road, the next day you are already planning your next adventure.

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Reviving Your RV Furnace

30 Friday Oct 2020

Posted by in RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Reviving Your RV Furnace

While it is important to keep all your appliances in good condition, the furnace is the one appliance that is truly out-of-sight-out-of-mind and is of utmost importance in colder weather. This article serves as a reminder about furnace maintenance.

RV Furnace

RV Furnace An RV furnace requires almost no maintenance. If necessary, clean or vacuum out the ducts if they get dusty or dirty. Regularly inspect the furnace intake on the outside of the RV for debris, insects, or other restrictions. Restrictions in the air intake can cause incomplete combustion. The by-products of incomplete combustion are Carbon Monoxide (CO) and soot. CO is an odorless, colorless, toxic gas. Incomplete combustion can be indicated by the presence of soot on the furnace exhaust on the outside of the RV. However, this is not a given and is another reason to have your system annually inspected.

Furnace Duct

Since RV furnaces do not have intake filtration like the ones in our homes do, it is common for the system to get dust and lint caught in it so the furnace either does not work properly or doesn’t work at all. Depending on the make and model of your furnace, you will either have an access panel on the outside or inside of your coach. The latter will likely be behind a panel that says “not for storage” or something similar. Check that space and vacuum it as necessary. Remove the cover from the furnace housing and vacuum the inside of the appliance.

A common failure mode for an RV furnace is that the blower runs for a short time, then the furnace shuts off. This is a result of the burner not lighting and can be caused by several things. In many cases, it is the result of debris in the sail switch (also called the “air prover”). This is a relatively easy component to clean. Refer to your owner’s manual to learn how.

The order of operation for an RV furnace is as follows:

  1. The thermostat calls for heat
  2. The furnace blower starts after a short delay
  3. The blower runs for several seconds in order to purge any non-combusted propane
  4. The control will check airflow via the sail switch
  5. If it is closed, the burner will attempt to ignite

Many owners aren’t aware of this order of operations, so I am including it here. If you are having problems with your furnace, this list may help you understand what function is failing so you can better communicate to your service provider.

While the RV furnace is a reliable, largely maintenance-free appliance, keeping it clean can help to ward off furnace problems when you may need it the most.

Propane Appliances

I must briefly include this as a reminder that it is extremely important to have your RV propane system professionally inspected annually. Your local RV service center will make sure your system has no propane leaks, your regulator is working properly and outputting the correct propane pressure, and your appliances are all functioning as they should.

Failure to have your system regularly inspected runs the risk of your unit getting a propane leak, or your appliances not functioning properly, possibly resulting in incomplete combustion. Both of these conditions are potentially very hazardous. So, it is important to keep your unit properly maintained. The same applies to other regular tasks, such as seal inspections.

About the author: Steve Froese 

Steve Froese, an avid RV owner, traveler, and Coach-Net member since 2013, is the principal of “A Word to the Wise Technical Communications”, a published RV author, certified RV technician, and licensed Professional Engineer. He frequently collaborates with the “RV Doctor”, Gary Bunzer, and has worked with the RVIA/RVDA as a technical and training writer and consultant. Professionally, he works as a quality engineer and musician. Watch for more of Steve’s work in upcoming Coach-Net publications.

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Stephen S. ~ “I have used Coach-Net for several years. A true bargain for the services provided. Highly recommend!” 

7 Tips For Improving Your RV Internet Connection

24 Thursday Sep 2020

Posted by in Tips & Tricks

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7 Tips For Improving Your RV Internet ConnectionFrom those traveling full-time and needing the internet to work, to part-timers who just want to check email and stream their favorite shows, more and more people are looking to have a reliable internet connection as they travel in their RVs. Fortunately, getting that good RV internet connection is becoming easier and easier.

In this article, we will discuss your options for staying connected on the road, as well as ways to improve your connection.

RV Internet Connection Options

The first step is to decide how you will connect while traveling. Currently, there are three RV internet options available:

  1. Cell Connection — This is the option most people choose. It involves using the same cell signals our phones use to stay connected to the internet. Usually, a dedicated hotspot is used, and some people choose to get more elaborate with boosters, routers, and more. The problem is that not all cell providers provide cell coverage in all areas, and there are still parts of the US that don’t have cell reception at all.
  2. Wi-Fi from Outside Sources — Another RV internet option is to pull in Wi-Fi signals from surrounding businesses, such as stores, restaurants, and the very campgrounds you stay in. Sometimes this is possible with no equipment at all, but usually, you will need some extra equipment to make it work. Generally, this option is free. Occasionally, however, a campground will charge for their internet.
  3. Satellite — Finally, some people choose satellite internet. Unfortunately, this is expensive, bulky, and not always the fastest option. That said, it is a good option for those who plan on boondocking in areas with no cell signal.

In order to ensure you have the best RV internet setup for you, we recommend considering where and how you like to travel.

Improving Your RV Internet Connection

RV InternetNow that you know how to get connected while on the road, we are going to discuss improving your RV internet connection. This information will help in places where your internet seems slow or bogged down.

  • Give Yourself Options

The first and most useful suggestion we have is to give yourself options in order to ensure you always have RV internet available. Keeping data lines with both Verizon and AT&T will ensure you have cell connection almost anywhere. Adding in a satellite option will cover you in those super remote areas. Lastly, the option to pull in Wi-Fi from outside sources is always a great backup plan.

  • Do Your Research

When choosing a campground, do your research. Campendium is a great website that allows you to see what kinds of cell coverage a particular campground or boondocking spot has. Reviews from other campers are also a great tool that will help you determine what the Wi-Fi might be like in a park.

  • Watch Where You Park

Parking under trees might be great for the shade, but it can cause issues if you plan to use satellite internet. In some cases, very thick tree coverage can even disrupt cell signals.

Watch Where You Park

Additionally, in many parks, one area might offer some cell signal while another has none at all, and parking closer to the campground router is always a good idea if you plan to use their Wi-Fi. Therefore, it’s always a good idea to carefully consider where you park and check your connection before getting set up.

  • Avoid Crowded Areas

Lots of people sharing one cell tower or a single Wi-Fi connection is never a good thing. Too many people will bog things down pretty quickly, making it impossible to load anything. For this reason, we recommend avoiding crowded parks when possible.

  • Set Up a Wi-Fi Range Extender

Earlier in this article, we mentioned that those who choose to pull in Wi-Fi from an outside source would probably need to invest in additional equipment. A Wi-Fi range extender such as ALFA Network Wi-Fi CampPro 2v2Range Extender Kit for RV is the equipment we were referring to.

This handy gadget uses an antenna to pull in Wi-Fi signals, sometimes from very far away. It then amplifies the signal, making for a nice, solid connection even if you’re nowhere near the router.

  • Put Up a Cellular Antenna

A cellular antenna is another great piece of equipment to have. There are many different options out there, but we recommend products made by Proxicast. No matter which you choose, a cellular antenna will help pull in a stronger and more usable cell signal.

  • Pick Up a Cell Signal Booster

Wifi ExtenderFinally, there is the option of a cell signal booster such as the WeBoost 4G-X RV. A booster is much more expensive than an antenna, but sometimes it’s what you really need to improve your RV internet connection. This device works by pulling in a cell signal and amplifying it. It’s ideal for areas that offer only a single bar of signal and can boost that single bar up to 3 or 4.

Hopefully, these tips help you get connected and stay that way while enjoying all the fun and excitement RV travel has to offer!

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

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