Category Archives: Tech Tips

Can Your Hitch Handle Your RV?

02 Wednesday Aug 2023

Posted by in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips

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Whether you are driving a motorized and towing a car (toad) behind, or in a truck or car pulling a travel trailer commonly referred to as “bumper pull” it is important to inspect your hitch every time you go on a trip and even look at the traditional method of hooking up. It may not be the best or safest way!

I have worked with several hitch manufacturers over the years producing how-to videos and even helped develop the RV Safety & Education Foundation’s (RVSEF) safety training program for years the procedure to properly connect a toad or bumper pull has been to connect the trailer or tow bar hitch to the ball on the tow vehicle, cross the safety chains underneath and connect them to the round connection on each side of the hitch, and connect the breakaway cable to some portion on the hitch, not the safety cable.

This is a typical hitch with a receiver tube and safety cable connection. Notice the round opening for the safety chains and breakaway cable are connected to the hitch.

Most often when a trailer disconnects from the hitch, the trailer coupler comes off the ball so the safety chains would help cradle the trailer coupler and tongue. This would also be the case if the bar of the ball mount broke.

However, since the hitch is typically welded to the bumper frame or cross member what happens if the entire hitch assembly were to break off? I had a recent reader from RV Travel.com send a question about how does an owner check the weld of a hitch? Good question as most are almost impossible to see. Here is what caused her to ask the question.

The entire hitch assembly broke away from the bar it was welded to so the safety chains and breakaway cable went with it and the entire toad zig-zagged back and forth until it came to a rest on the side of the interstate. Luckily nobody was hurt and there was limited damage.

This is the hitch and as you can see the rings for the safety chains and the breakaway cable are connected to the component. And notice from the previous photo, they were not towing anywhere near their maximum towing capacity with a little Fiat.

There are three things to be learned from this.

1. Have your hitch periodically checked by someone that can crawl underneath or can lift the unit on a hoist and inspect every aspect of the welds or bolts. Any hairline cracks need to be attended to immediately. I do not know if this could have been detected, but most of us take our hitches for granted.

2. Attach additional connecting points for your safety chains and breakaway cable to a solid portion of the chassis or tow vehicle.  You can purchase aftermarket safety chain brackets from Etrailer or other supplies that can be welded or bolted to a solid chassis component. You can also attach the breakaway cable there as well. If you don’t have a remote bracket, at least mount the breakaway cable to something other than the hitch.

3. Install an auxiliary braking system in your towed vehicle. Most trailers come with electric trailer brakes. Inspect them often and test them on gravel to make sure they are working. If you have a motorized RV pulling a car or truck, anything over 1,500 lbs should have an auxiliary braking system such as the Blue Ox Patriot or Roadmaster Invisbrake. Each state has its own Road Use Laws and some require brakes on anything over 3,000 lbs, others at 1,500, and some are mandatory on anything towed. An auxiliary braking system will not only help slow down the momentum of the towed vehicle but will also reduce the stress of a sudden stop on the hitch assembly which would put undue stress on the hitch connection and cause this to happen.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Terry P. ~ “As a proud member of Coach-Net, I can’t praise their service enough! The call agents were so friendly and went above and beyond to provide the help we needed. My wife, our adorable cat, and I are full-time RVers who love to travel and explore. We’ve even trained our cat to walk on a leash!

Recently, we encountered an issue with our fireplace – the breaker kept tripping, and the breaker box was getting way too hot. Worried about our safety, we immediately contacted Coach-Net for assistance. They swiftly found a nearby service location for us. The technician they connected us with was highly knowledgeable and thorough. He not only helped locate a professional to fix the fireplace but also patiently tackled multiple other issues we faced during the process.

Coming from an experience with other providers in the past, I must say Coach-Net truly exceeded my expectations. Their approach to customer service was exceptional. They recognized that I had some electrical expertise and adjusted their communication accordingly, ensuring we worked together seamlessly to get everything fixed. It was an absolute pleasure dealing with them! I can’t recommend them enough – their dedication to providing top-notch assistance and going the extra mile is truly commendable. If you’re an RVer like us, trust me, Coach-Net is the way to go!’’

Hot Enough For You?: Air Conditioning Maintenance To Help Keep You Cool.

05 Wednesday Jul 2023

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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Summer Solstice is behind us the temperatures have been climbing! At home, with your car or truck, it would be time to have a technician check your coolant and recharge it. However, the roof air conditioners in RVs are a completely sealed system with no ports to check or recharge anything. But there are some maintenance items you can do to make your roof air conditioner run more efficiently.

Clean The Filter, Evaporator, and Condenser Coils.

Whether you have a direct flow air conditioner or one that is ducted throughout the ceiling, they all have a filter that needs to be cleaned periodically. Typically it is in the cold air return and is a woven plastic that can be washed with soap and water. Make sure that it is thoroughly dry before putting it back as a wet filter can mold or restrict airflow.

When you pull the vent, from the return air, down to access the filter you should be able to see the evaporator coil from the inside. The interior air is pulled up through the return air vent by the fan motor and it passes through the evaporator coil where the coolant flashes and draws out heat and moisture. It can also get clogged with dust and other items that make it past the return air filter. The image below is a unit that quit working and we pulled off the top cover and the evaporator shield and found it caked with body powder!

You should be able to use a shop vac to clean the coil from the inside. Otherwise, you would need to get on top of the unit and take the plastic cover and evaporator metal cover off to access it. You must have clean airflow through the coils for the unit to cool.

On the back side of the air conditioner is the condenser coils which draw outside air through the fan motor and help cool the hot copper tubing of the coolant as it makes its way back to the compressor. This needs to be clean and the coils or fins straight. Some models are exposed to the elements and hail or branches can flatten them restricting airflow. Some models have redesigned the condenser coils at an angle to reduce exposure to hail and branches.

Check Airflow At The Unit And At The Vents

Most air conditioner manufacturers make a model that can either be used as a direct vent out of the unit like a window air conditioner in a house, or can have a baffle placed in the cavity to divert air to the ductwork placed in the ceiling. If you have a direct vent model coming down from the unit, check to make sure there are no obstructions such as insulation blocking the flow of air.

If you have a ducted model, it is important to check the diverter or baffle as the air conditioner manufacturers send a generic size and the RV manufacturers are required to cut it to length and fasten it. I have seen several units where the baffle was cut too short, a single piece of duct tape was fastened to the top, and the baffle was actually laying sideways, so very little air was getting back to the vents. If the baffle is not cut to length or the sides are also secure, air will circulate in the cavity and just return back through the return air and sometimes gets so cold it will shut down the system as there is a thermistor or temperature sensor at the evaporator coil. It is important to inspect the entire system as you might need to add HVAC duct tape to reinforce areas that have gaps and loose ends. This is a unit on a 2015 Thor Challenger and although the baffle looks good, there are gaps on the side and top that should be sealed reduce leakage.

I recommend getting an anemometer with an airflow and temperature gauge. Your roof air conditioner can only cool the incoming air at the return air vent 16 degrees so if you let the rig sit in sweltering heat in the summer when not in use and fire it up to cool things down, you will not be very satisfied. If the temperature inside the rig is 100 degrees, the air coming out of the vent will only be a balmy 84 degrees! So having the correct temperature data is important when it comes to troubleshooting. I also like the airflow tester as it tells me the highs and lows of certain vents. Naturally, the vent closest will have a higher CFM (cubic feet per minute) however you should be able to tell if there is a difference between the front and the back.

Some designs are just not very efficient due to the boxed design of the cavity, and instead of providing the maximum airflow to the vents, it creates a circulating effect that provides insufficient airflow and cooling which oftentimes causes condensation as the cool moist air hits the metal sides and ductwork. You can add additional insulation to the sides and create a “V” shaped design, however, a company called RV Airflow has designed a ready-made insert that increases airflow and efficiency. This product captures 100% of the airflow and directs it to the ductwork as well as reducing friction which reduces the stress on the unit which can prolong the life of the compressor and motor as well as reduce noise. You can find the design that fits your model here.

Reduce Initial Start Up Amps

When your roof air conditioner starts the cycle it can draw up to 40+ amps for each unit! This is a quick spike that typically doesn’t trip the 30 amp breaker but does weaken components over time. However, if you have two roof AC units and they start the cycle simultaneously on a 30 amp service, you will have a problem. AND…if you are getting your rig ready for a trip and have it parked at home, plugged into a 20 amp outlet in the garage… another problem.

The Softstartrv is a product that is installed on the air conditioner and will reduce the initial amp draw down to approximately 14-18 amps which help with energy management but also extend the life of the compressor and motor. You can find information on how to install and purchase here.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

David P. ~ “I had to use the Coach-Net system for a coach jack problem.  Pat helped me resolve the issue.  He was very helpful and I was able to continue my journey.  This was the first time I had to use it and it worked out great.  When the time to renew, I most definitely will.  Thanks again for the help.”

RV Connectivity Part 2 | Television         

03 Wednesday May 2023

Posted by in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

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When it comes to the term RV, so much has changed over the past 20-30 or even 40 years. Some people still go RVing to get away from it all and don’t want any type of “connectivity” while others go out in rigs that have 5 televisions! I don’t watch a lot of television when I go RVing, however, I do like to be able to check the news and local weather.

Over The Air Antenna (OTA)

Even in today’s high-tech world of streaming, satellite signals, and other pay-per-view options, there is still the old-fashioned signal coming from a local TV station via towers. This is called Over The Air transmission which emits a digital signal from one of the stations’ towers. When the first TV signals hit the airwaves they were analog until 2009 when everything switched to digital. Most RVs up until that time had the old crank-up antenna that was on the top of the rig which we coined the “Batwing”. You had to crank it up and turn it in the direction of the strongest signal which you did not know until turning off the TV and trying to find a station, usually with several attempts.

This old antenna will be able to receive a digital signal however it has a very short reception distance and with digital, it has to be full strength or it will pixelate and drop off. To enhance the old Batwing, Winegard has introduced an add-on piece called the “Wingman” which will double the distance it can receive. You still have to turn the antenna to get the right direction and crank it down when you leave the campground or it will eventually come down on its own!

Other roof antennas are now available such as the Winegard Rayzar or the King Controls “King Jack” both of which are mounted on the roof and do not have to be cranked up or down but do require rotation for the best signal.

A new introduction by Winegard for OTA antenna is the Air 360 which is a dome unit permanently mounted to the roof and once it is turned on, the unit will automatically search and find all signals in the area and then a channel search on your TV screen logs them in automatically. It easily replaces all older model roof antennas. I have installed over 6 of these units and they are easy to install and pull in about twice as many stations as the other models.

Satellite Signal

Another option for television entertainment is getting satellite programming from a provider such as Dish Network, DirectTV, Hughes, and others. You will need either a roof-mounted antenna or a portable antenna that gets a line of sight to the satellite. My preference has been Dish as they have three satellites in the Eastern Sky, and two in the West so getting a line of sight has been superior in my opinion. Plus their “Pay As You Go” program allows you to only pay for the months you need.

The Traveler antenna by Winegard is mounted to the top of the rig and can be configured for either Dish or DirectTV and automatically cranks up and finds a High Definition (HD) signal. The only downside is it can not be used while actively traveling.

There are some options for satellite antennas that can be used while driving down the road such as the Winegard Roadtrip dome which handles Dish, DirectTV, and Bell Television and has an internal “Gyro” with refined algorithms that will track the signal as you go down the road.

I have found that many people prefer portable units even though they are a little more difficult to set up initially. The advantage is being able to get a camping spot in the shade to keep things cooler however that typically blocks the line of sight to the satellite. A portable unit lets you get the ideal spot and run the antenna out to the best location. Most RVs have an exterior coax connection in the service center or outside of the rig so you can set the portable unit out in the line of sight, connect the coax cable, and switch the feed inside to external.

What I also like about the Dish system is the Wally receiver as it is durable enough to handle the banging RVs get going down the road and temperature changes. It also has an OTA adapter that allows you to hook up your OTA antenna to it and all the local channels come up on the screen rather than needing to switch inputs of your TV. You can also do this for any “streaming” program you have!

Streaming TV

Now this is where it starts to get pretty foggy when I try to explain this to my folks who still have 12:00 blinking on their VCR! Streaming is a method of using an internet signal either hard wired or wireless (WiFi) and using a program such as Hulu, Paramount +, Prime, Apple TV, Netflix, and many others. You’ll need a good internet connection, pick the program you want, and pay a monthly fee for said streaming service.

You also need a Smart TV that can receive an internet signal either by hard wire or Wifi or purchase an adapter like a Roku. Essentially, you are getting television programs from the internet even though you can get local channels with your package.

Two years ago we decided to “Cut The Cable” at home and went with an internet-based streaming program and use Hulu, Netflix, and Amazon Prime Video. The only issue I have encountered is when we travel, which is not much in RVs these days but motels for shows, our Hulu account requires us to change locations and states that we can only do this 3 times a year. This may or may not be ideal for you. However, when using a portable device like a phone or laptop, it doesn’t require the relocation so I developed a workaround using my laptop and connecting an HDMI cable to the TV, which works for now.

Ultimately, there are now several ways to enjoy TV while you’re RVing and everyone has their own preference as to what avenue fits them best. From OTA to streaming, to going completely without TV, what options do you subscribe to?

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Randy & Angel ~ “I called the on-call service technician due to having a few questions and potential issues. They were very knowledgeable and helped us get through things we were having problems operating. They were absolutely amazing and very helpful!”

What To Know About The 2023 Florida RV Supershow

05 Wednesday Apr 2023

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The Florida RV Trade Association (FRVTA) Florida RV Supershow was held Jan 23-28, 2023 at the Florida State Fairgrounds in Tampa FL. It was estimated that over 79,000 people attended and I conducted a seminar each day of the show. It brought back memories as I also conducted seminars when I was working at Winnebago Industries over 25 years ago and WOW has it changed. Back then we were in a dusty old building with Lazy Days and the seminar was up in the grandstand seats!

This year we had a beautiful building with over 200 seats and it was air-conditioned! I had a modest crowd for the Tips For Choosing The Right RV on Wednesday and the crowd grew to over 200 Friday and Saturday. Sunday was back down to about 75 which makes it easier to ask more questions of the participants. And the attendees were there to buy, not only RVs but accessories as well. At times it was almost impossible to walk down the road and was impossible to get through the vendor buildings. But I did see a bunch of people walking out with generators, air conditioners, and almost every type of camping “must-have” from the vendors.

I went to the show last year and did a little research and this year we brought a production crew to interview RV manufacturers, equipment vendors, and many interesting product promotors.

Winnebago featured their Electric RV prototype the eRV2 built on a Ford Transit platform with an all-electric power train. We featured it in last month’s article. They also had their new National Park model Vista on display which comes in at 30’ so it’s easy to maneuver around the park and find a spot at the campgrounds.

The Solis is a smaller vehicle that we got a great walkaround from Nick, the Product Training Manager from the Southeast. It has a unique Overland Drawer feature that makes it easy to store and access gear, plug all terrain tires with standard Sumo Springs for a comfortable ride on rough roads.

Keep warm with the Truma Combi heating system and the 280 hp Dodge Ram platform can tow 3500 lbs. Stay dry camping longer with the two group 31 AGM batteries and 220-watt flexible solar panels mounted to the pop top.

Keystone RV introduced their new 5th Wheel with a front office floorplan!

The Montana was the hit of the show with a line of people coming in and out every day. With more people working from home, specifically taking their home on the road, this floorplan will be very popular as it has a dedicated office with a picture window. No more setting up on the dinette or bedroom fighting for space and quiet with others traveling with you.

One of the more interesting additions to the smaller model Class C and B Van market was the Wingamm built on a Fiat chassis.

This is an Italian company that has been in business since 1977 building a full fiberglass body they call monocoque design so it can not develop leaks. They have been building on various chassis platforms over the years such as Fiat, Mercedes, and Volkswagen, and with the new design Ducato chassis by Fiat has entered the US market with three models. It features a drop-down bed and compact design but there are only three distributors in the US. Still is kind of cool though.

Truma introduces AquaGo an instant hot water application with easy draining and cleaning. It has an exclusive decalcification system which extends the life of the unit especially since most of the water available at campsites is hard water. It provides a constant temperature and has an easy drain lever. New model installs can also get a recirculation kit for instant hot water throughout the coach.

Sumo Springs

For years, the standard chassis in Class A Gas and most Class C units have been a rock and roller coaster ride from the stock chassis. Sumo Springs is changing that and several manufacturers are offering standard on some models and optional on others. I have heard of these but have not gotten to do much testing but recently worked with one of the writers for RV Travel.com who had a terrible ride/drive on her F53 chassis and installed Sumo Springs and other enhancements. California RV Specialists has also installed quite a few of these and their customers love them. They are not rubber or metal, but rather made of a micro-cellular polyurethane poured into a mold to reduce rear-end sag, decrease vibration, and what we call porpoising or bouncing down the road. Pictured below is a set for a 2015 F53 which we are currently working on and will install a set this summer. Look for that article later.

What show review would be complete without including Lippert and their Lippert Scouts program. They had one entire end of the Vendor Building with their Lippert Scouts trailer, a stage for seminars from their Lippert Scout Ambassadors, and a campground setting with a ton of products. A new product that was being introduced was the wireless LP tank level gauge and the inside temperature gauge.

Both gauges have a sensor that mounts to the bottom of the tank in the LP product and hangs in the refrigerator for the temperature sensor and the One Control App on your phone provides the information on the LP level and the temperature.

Rust Inhibitor

For years I was a WD-40 man until I found the issues with it actually wiping off the lubricant that was designed for dump valve stems and hydraulic pistons. I came across a product called Fluid Film which is a great rust inhibitor and cleaner but it smells really bad!

At the show, I came across Bioshield T9 which many of our readers have been writing to us about. I got a sample and brought it back to try and have been very pleased with the lubricating performance. It will take a while to see how well it does with rust especially since it’s below zero most of the time currently! According to the website they have been working with Boeing for over 40 years to develop a more reliable metal protector and lubricant that could withstand prolonged environmental exposure. They claim it penetrates better, displaces moisture, and dissolves minor corrosion through the combination of unique waxes and solvents. Our readers have been very impressed with it as well.

As with all shows, there was a variety of attendees with the most unusual being Max the potbelly pig.

I think his fur baby buddy was thinking; “Do I smell bacon?”

Another feature was the abundance of strollers but it was a guessing game, baby or puppy?

Most of them were puppies, this one stopped at the Coach-Net tent to say how much he loved RVing!

And finally, we went “Live” from the Lippert Scout Trailer Thursday evening for the Talkin’ RV Tech event and had an hour of questions from not only our participants via the YouTube and Facebook channels but also from our Live audience outside the trailer at the Lippert Theater.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Mark C. ~ “You guys are 100% AWESOME! We have turned to you over the span of 20 years and you have always come through!”

RV Connectivity | Cell Phones And WiFi

05 Wednesday Apr 2023

Posted by in RV Newbie, Tech Tips

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In the old days, our family would plan an RV vacation two or three times a year, one of them being a two-week trip of a lifetime. We rented a popup trailer and visited Gettysburg, Washington DC, Boston, and New York City for one of them and were in Washington DC the day President Nixon resigned. One year we traveled through Mt Rushmore, Yellowstone National Park, and Glacier National Park.

In those days, there really wasn’t any “connectivity” as we would have the post office hold our mail, go to the bank and get $1000 worth of Travelers Checks, and tell all our friends we were going to be gone for a couple of weeks.

We did not have cell phones, gaming devices, or 150 TV channels, just ABC, NBC, and CBS from an over-the-air TV antenna. So I guess you could say we were totally “analog”, meaning we found cities using a printed map from either individual states or an Atlas. Recently I asked my folks how we ever found campgrounds like the one in downtown New York City just past the Lincoln Tunnel. They said we would stop at the first rest stop in the state we were traveling to and get brochures from the “rack”! Today we are connected digitally in everything we do from video cameras at the front doorbell, to constant news updates on our phones.

What Is RV Connectivity And Why Do We Need It?

Connectivity or being connected means so many different things to different people. It’s like trying to identify the “average” RVer! We need to read and send emails to not only friends but for business and communication. More and more people are working remotely and need to access the information and operations they did from an office environment with either desktop computers or a mainframe or hub. We need to search for the answers to questions, get weather updates, find the best campfire recipe, or even figure out what to do for a snake bite! And we need to be able to call or receive calls while on the road.

 When you are in one basic geographical location such as your home, you typically know who has the best services in the areas of connectivity you need such as the best cell phone provider/signal and a handful of internet options. And you have the benefit of friends and neighbors that have tested these providers.

The challenge with RV Connectivity is finding the best providers for all these communications needs traveling in an RV. If you are just traveling in what I call the “comfort zone” relatively close to your residential area, you know what works best. If you are going to travel around the country it is much more challenging.

Cell Phone

There are several cell phone providers to choose from and they all advertise the best coverage in the country. One of the issues with cell phones and RVing is the coverage and strength of the signal when traveling around the country.

Check out www.signalchecker.com to check for a location with cell phone coverage in an area you plan to travel to.

Type in the zip code of the area you are planning to visit and you will get a listing of the coverage. This is a generic overview of the coverage in the area, for more specific details about your provider, there are links on this site to all the major providers.

We experienced cell phone issues in our trip shooting footage in Death Valley and there are some places where you just will not get a signal. However, at the Longstreet Inn and Casino in Armargosa Valley, we had 1 bar flickering on and off so it was very unreliable. We used the Weboost cell booster and the Drive Reach RV and it pulled a signal to about 2-3 bars for not only my US Cellular phone but a Verizon and Sprint! We chose the Drive Reach RV as it had a better signal reach than other models and was compact.

The Destination RV model has a telescoping pole if there are trees and other things that can block a signal and has an even farther reach, however, since we wanted to use it not only at the campground but also on the Jeeps, the Drive Reach RV was best for us.

Data Plans

A cell phone is used for more than just calling, it’s a mini-computer that can connect you to the internet and browse, get emails, and be a GPS navigator so you will need to identify how you are planning to use it to determine how much “data” you will need. I remember when my granddaughters first got their cell phones and started texting all their friends. Then they got the first bill and it was over $200 for the month! They were put on a specific amount of data and if they hit it before the new cycle, they could not use their phone!

Most providers now offer unlimited texting, but limited data. The difference is the amount of streaming or downloading from the internet in movies, music, and other data. Or uploading videos such as a podcast or other data. If you are just using email, browsing the web, or posting blogs, the small data plans are fine. However, if you want to stream HD videos, and movies, and upload videos to platforms like YouTube, you will need to get a much higher data plan. Keep in mind, this is only for your cell phone plan, you might be able to use a smaller data plan if you can use the campground WiFi.

What Is WiFi And How Is It Different Than The Internet?

The internet is basically the data stream or the language that is connected throughout the world by various “hard-line” methods such as fiber and others.

Wi-Fi is the term given for wireless technology that connects the internet or data to computers, cell phones, and other devices without needing a physical connection. So Wi-Fi and the internet are actually two separate things but work together. The internet is the data and Wi-Fi just broadcasts it wirelessly.

What Connections Are Available?

Most privately owned campgrounds today offer a WiFi service and it is typically free. Campgrounds in State or National Parks seldom offer WiFi. The challenge with campground-provided WiFi is the signal is not very strong beyond 100’ of the router in the main office. Some campgrounds have upgraded their system adding boosters and repeaters to strengthen the signal to sites outside the “sweet zone”.

You can also get a wireless signal at some rest stops along the interstate highways, truck stops like Flying J and Pilot, and even parking lots at fast food restaurants such as McDonald’s, Starbucks, Cracker Barrel, etc.

Campground WiFi is generally not very reliable and typically very slow as they do not get the most expensive package available. Plus, more people using one service slows most providers’ signals down.

There are products available that will boost the signal from the original source called boosters, extenders, and repeaters which basically do the same thing. They work well in a residential setting where only one person is using it however they actually diminish the signal in a campground where multiple people are trying to boost at the same time.

If the internet is important to your connectivity or you need to uplink video podcasts or other data-rich features, you will not want to rely on the campground or other free locations. There are other options available.

Hot Spots

In addition to the signal for the cell phone, you will also want connectivity for laptops and the television. For that, you would want what is called a hot spot device. Some cell phone providers have a hot spot mode designed into the cell phone rather than getting a separate device and plan. The downside of using the hot spot mode of your cell phone is it will run the battery down quickly, use data faster, and is typically slower.

Because of these issues, several cellular providers also offer a standalone hotspot device however, there are others available. We have tested several and I really like the TravlFi model as it uses the strongest signal from all the major providers so I’m not limited to one that might not have a strong signal in a specific area. They have several data plans so if you just need to check emails and do a little browsing, you don’t need an expensive plan. And there is no contract, you can purchase monthly as you need it. Here is a shot of me using it in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. Learn more about the product and plans at; www.travlfi.com

TravlFi just introduced the Journey XTR which is a 4G Router and booster. It is not as portable but has a better range and also uses the major cell providers. You can get a signal and then hard wire a tower or other device if needed.

Other options include roof-mounted antennas that also use a G4 cell signal such as the Winegard Connect or the Air 360+ which is a combination of an over-the-air antenna with the addition of a Gateway inside the rig for reception. The Gateway mounts inside the unit on the ceiling.

Be watching for Part 2 where we will talk about connectivity as it pertains to over-the-air TV signals, streaming, and satellite options.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Charles P. ~ “Coach-Net came highly recommended and lived up to expectations with EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE and SUPPORT.”

5 Ways To Improve RV Window Insulation

01 Wednesday Mar 2023

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Most RVers are well aware of just how poorly insulated the vast majority of rigs are. Unless the weather is just perfect, it can be difficult to get the temperature right in a trailer or motorhome.

One of the things that makes this extra difficult is single-pane RV windows. That’s why we recommend doing all you can to improve RV windows insulation in your rig, especially if you plan to camp in the middle of the winter or the height of summer.

Not sure how to go about insulating your RV windows properly? In this article, we will introduce you to five great ways to do just that.

Use Reflectix

Our first suggestion is Reflectix. We love Reflectix because it comes in sheets or rolls and can be cut to fit your RV windows easily. If you cut the pieces to fit snugly, they will hold themselves in place, but it’s also possible to use Command strips to hold them.

Reflectix is excellent at providing insulation and reflecting the sun away from your RV to help keep it cool in the summer, but it does block out all light. If you need to have sunshine to be a happy camper, this solution may not be for you.

Install Window Film

If sunlight coming in the windows is a must-have, you might prefer a window film insulation solution. These shrink-film window insulation kits are sold on Amazon and at home improvement stores. The film is applied using heat and it stays in place very nicely. It also provides a decent amount of insulation. All that said, the film can be a pain to apply, so you will want to be sure to set aside plenty of time for the project.

Employ Bubble Wrap

A cheap, easy, and effective option that will allow sunlight to enter the rig involves bubble wrap. Simply cut sheets of bubble wrap to fit inside your window, spritz the window with a bit of water from a spray bottle, and stick the bubble wrap on the window.

The only things we don’t love about this method are that the water doesn’t hold up forever (meaning you will likely have to reapply the bubble wrap occasionally) and that although light does get in through the wrap, you can’t see outside through it.

Make Your Own Window Covers

You might also consider some DIY covers. Lots of people have made awesome van window covers, and there are even some no-sew DIY van window cover options out there. There is no reason these methods of making van window covers couldn’t be carried over into an RV. That said, there are other options (such as sewing your own blackout curtains) to keep things nice and insulated.

Consider Double Pane Windows

Double pane windows are a fantastic, effective, and permanent RV window insulation solution. As the name suggests, double-pane windows are made of two panes of glass that have a layer of gas in between. The extra pane and layer of gas work together to provide much better RV window insulation than the traditional single-pane windows usually found in motorhomes and trailers. They also work well to block out unwanted noises.

Unfortunately, double-pane RV windows are quite heavy and expensive. They can also be damaged if the seal between the two panes is broken. Nevertheless, we do think they can be a worthwhile investment if you plan to camp in extreme temperatures regularly.

As you can see, there are several great ways to improve your RV window insulation. Pick one of the options above and get to work so you can enjoy camping in the perfect temperature on your next trip out in the RV!

May contain affiliate links.

About the author: Chelsea Gonzales

Chelsea has the amazing opportunity to take part in full-time RV living and traveling with her tiny tribe. She homeschools her five-year-old son as they travel, and takes full advantage of their unique situation by using the entire world as her son’s classroom. A group of total Disney fanatics, Chelsea and her family often find themselves in the Orlando area in order to visit the Disney parks, but they have also visited over 25 of the 50 states with plans to see many more along the way. No matter where her travels take her, Chelsea enjoys riding bikes, gazing at beautiful sunsets, finding new coffee shops, Irish dancing, and sitting around a campfire with her family.

You can join her adventures through her blog, Wonder Wherever We Wander.

James O. ~ “All the agents were very friendly and followed up with phone calls to check the status of the service provider’s arrival. This is the third request we have made with our coverage and we have been very pleased with the service!!”

Converters and Inverters – What Is The Difference When It Comes To Battery Charging?

04 Wednesday Jan 2023

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There have been several inquiries from owners, old and new, about converters and inverters, and it’s clear that there is some confusion about their capabilities and functions. This is completely understandable, as there are various types of converters and an even greater number of inverters! So, let’s dive in!

Converter

A converter is basically a battery charger that receives 120-volt AC power from either a campground source or a generator and turns it into 12-volt DC power to charge the house battery or batteries. The most basic converter is located in a distribution center alongside the 120-volt circuit breakers and is called an all-in-one unit similar to this style.

The converter/charger is located behind the vents or grills on the right side and has a dedicated circuit breaker which is usually the one closest to the converter.

These are a less expensive model, however, they can be noisy and produce heat so some manufacturers are moving to a standalone model and putting it under the bed or inside cabinetry. There is still a distribution center with circuit breakers and 12-volt automotive-style fuses, but the converter/charger is hidden.

Above is a photo of a WFCO installed under the bed behind a false wall. They can be difficult to find and even more difficult to remove and install the new converter when looking to install lithium batteries!

A typical converter is connected to the house batteries and senses the charge. When the batteries are low, (approximately 50% drained) the converter will provide a charge of approximately 13.6-volts until the batteries reach 12.6-volts which is fully charged. Then the converter will drop to a float charge of 13.2-volts in order to avoid overcharging the battery/batteries.

The disadvantage is that it does not provide proper charging and maintenance. Sulfur will coat the lead plates in lead acid and AGM battery as it drains and only a high voltage charge known as the bulk charge or desulfation charge will break up the coating. Otherwise, it just gets thicker with each draw and eventually greatly reduces the battery’s ability to store power. It can also take 8 hours or longer to charge.

Progressive Dynamics offers a charger that provides 13.8-volts for 8 hours, which creates some desulfation, and the PD9200 with Charge Wizard also does a nice job.

A multi-stage charger will provide a bulk charge at 14.6-16-volts that will break up the sulfation and then moves to an equalizing charge to equalize each cell, followed by a float charge.

NOTE: You do not want to use this type of charger with Lithium Batteries as they require only a 14.6-volt charge and the bulk stage could ruin them!

There is very little maintenance required with either the all-in-one version or the standalone other than to monitor the condition of your lead acid battery/batteries. It is also recommended to periodically check all wiring connections for corrosion and tight fitting. If a converter goes bad it will either lose its ability to charge or not come out of the initial higher charge of 13.6-13.8 volts overcharging the batteries. Be sure to check the fluid level of the battery and in my opinion, it is a good idea to get a good battery monitor other than the three-light versions on the monitor panel.

The monitor shown below is a Go Power! product and is the version we installed in our Thor.

Inverter/Charger

An inverter is designed to take 12-volt DC power from the house battery bank and change or invert it to 120-volt AC power for appliances and outlets. Smaller inverters were first used with the entertainment centers to power just the TV and VCR and were about 100 watts. This was designed to power the TV while boondocking or dry camping temporarily and did not power anything else in the rig.

As more power was needed for other outlets and appliances such as residential refrigerators, larger inverters came along such as the Freedom 2000 which also had a battery charger incorporated.

This type of inverter would not only take 12-volt power from a larger battery bank and provide pure sine wave 120-volt power to several outlets and the residential refrigerator but would also provide a multi-stage charge to the house batteries.

Several companies have made their way into the market with inverters/chargers as low as 1000-watt models. The key in deciding which is right for you is to look at what wattage requirements you need for your rig, the battery bank you have, and the amp rating of the charger.

Companies with a reliable track record according to the RV manufacturers and service centers that I have worked with are Go Power, Xantrex, Victron which Keystone uses, and Renogy.

As with a converter, there is very little maintenance required for inverters other than battery maintenance and periodic checking of connections for corrosion.

Which Do I Need, A Converter Or An Inverter/Charger?


Usually, you don’t have a choice as the rig comes from the factory with a distribution center that has a converter/charger incorporated. This is either in the distribution center, standalone, or an inverter with a charging option.

The time to decide is when the converter fails or you want to upgrade your battery capacity. The determining factor is the amount of time you will be boondocking or dry camping. An inverter is only needed if you are not going to be plugged into a campground source and need to run some 120-volt appliances which would need an inverter or generator power.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Ryan C. ~ “Coach-Net was exceptional and did all the leg work to get my tow. They took care of the billing, and all I had to do was wait for the tow truck. No paperwork on site and no hassle whatsoever!”

How To Properly Restore Your RV After Water Damage

21 Monday Nov 2022

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Living or traveling in an RV has its perks, however, increasingly frequent rainstorms can bring a host of different issues for the average RV dweller. A recent study has found that climate change is causing heavier rains in the US, and even typically drier areas like El Paso and Nevada saw large jumps in extreme rainfall in 2022. Constant and heavy rainfall means having a higher chance of flooding, which can damage crops, properties, and vehicles. 

If your RV was a casualty of recent flooding, or if leaks have somehow found their way into the vehicle, you’re probably wondering whether to scrap it or salvage it as best as you can. Thankfully, there are ways to properly restore your RV after water damage and revert it to its former condition.

Find the Source of Water Damage

Whether it’s a home or an RV, it’s a fact that the process of water damage mitigation can be daunting. If you’re unsure how to go about it, you may consult water damage professionals to save your assets. But you can also jumpstart the process by assessing your vehicle and locating the source of water damage.

If your vehicle wasn’t flooded yet the flooring and interior are always damp, you’ll need to see if there are leaks in the walls or roof. Also, check for any soft spots where water can seep through, or gaps in the door or windows. You’ll also need to check the inside of cabinets and other storage areas to make sure that they’re completely dry. If your RV’s walls are covered in wallpaper, strip off all wall coverings so you can check if there’s any damage.  

Clean it Up

The first thing that you’ll need to do to restore a flooded or rain-damaged RV is to clean it up thoroughly. Scrub it free of mud, grime, and dirt as soon as you can, since waiting for it to dry can make the cleanup process even more difficult. If you have an older RV, it likely has a wooden floor, so you’ll need to check if it’s soft or rotting. If it is, or it’s completely waterlogged, then you’ll need to replace it. It’s a good idea to pull out the entire floor instead of just leaving seemingly dry areas since those parts may be damaged too. Other soft surfaces, such as seats, should also be replaced, so plan on reupholstering these areas. You should also make sure to remove any signs of mold growth since it may cause mold sickness or health symptoms that range from sneezing to skin itching. 

Air it Out

Once you’ve thoroughly cleaned your RV inside and out, you’ll need to dry it. Open all the windows and doors and let them dry under the sun. Be mindful of the weather though since an unexpected rainstorm can derail your RV restoration. You can use desk fans or stand fans to provide additional ventilation and speed up the drying process. You may also spot dry areas with a blow dryer, or leave opened boxes of baking soda inside the RV to absorb excess moisture. For another DIY option, place dry cat litter in bags and leave them in the RV for 24 hours to pull the moisture out of the interior.


Fixing a waterlogged RV can be a challenge, but with some time and effort, you can restore your vehicle to its former glory. Replace all damaged components and never drive your RV if you suspect that some crucial parts were affected by flooding or leaks. Finally, if the water damage is extensive, consult a professional who has years of experience restoring RVs.

Author: Alicia Rennoll

Bob B. ~ “Consistent with our past experience, the dispatcher was friendly, concerned, and efficient; she returned calls as promised to let us know who the provider would be and when to expect arrival, as well as to confirm arrival. The service provider, Ratholland Automotive Service, and its driver, J.T. called immediately to estimate arrival time, and arrived within 5 minutes of the estimate. J.T. was prompt, friendly, and efficient. He had the proper equipment and took care of changing our tire and getting us on the road quickly and professionally. We’ve had Coach-Net for about 14 years, and you’ve always come through when needed. I’m now the Director of the Forest River Owners’ Group, and we provide Coach-Net coverage to all new Forest River RV purchasers. I’m happy to be able to promote that affiliation.”

Cool RV Tools Every Camper Should Have!

02 Wednesday Nov 2022

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Everyone has their favorite tools they bring along on an RV trip depending on your level of mechanical and DIY abilities. There have been numerous articles about the basics such as screwdrivers and pliers. Over the past 40 years of RVing and a few more before that working and owning a service station, I have gathered a few more that are pretty unique.

Several years ago I was conducting seminars at the California RV Show and pulled out a couple of meters and gauges that I used in one of the handyman series for testing and after the seminar, a few of the Winnebago Itasca Travelers (WIT) Club members came up and said; “I bet you have developed quite a unique set of tools and gadgets over the years?” And they were right, so I developed one of my most popular seminars called “Cool RV Tools, Gadgets, and must-have Apps”. I will share a few of the more unique ones with you in this article.

Electrical Tools

GFCI Tester

Before plugging into a campground electrical source, it’s important to make sure it has proper voltage and is wired correctly. Whether you are plugging into 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp service, it is important to verify the load wire/wires, neutral, and ground are all connected and not loose. Using a Surge Protector is a great option, however, I found this GFCI tester at Home Depot that not only tells me the wiring is good but also shows the voltage. You do not want to plug into anything that is below 106 volts or above 130 volts. Even if you use a multimeter or Surge Protector, this is a handy device to plug into an inside outlet for a quick reference of voltage and wiring.

Non-Contact Voltage Tester

This handy device will immediately tell you if there is power coming through an extension cord, appliance plug-in, or at an outlet without needing to dig deep into the outlet. If you get the type with a sensitivity dial, you can also test the outside of your rig for hot skin which is a voltage leak due to improper or loose wiring. These are available at home improvement and hardware stores.

Kill A Watt

Most people understand the basics of what they can run on 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp service such as only one roof air conditioner on 30 amps, either the air conditioner or the microwave but not both on 30 amps, and other common items found on your rig. But what power does a toaster draw? How about an air fryer, or hair dryer? It’s important to know what extra items you bring using power especially if you are using 20 or 30-amp power. The Kill A Watt is a handy device that plugs into an outlet and that you plug into an appliance such as an espresso machine, curling iron, or ceramic heater. It will tell you the Watts or Amp so you can better manage your energy usage.

Electrical Cord Holders

Several years ago I was following a friend that was an electrician and saw he had several extension cords and other items hanging on the cage in the back of his pickup. I caught up with him and found he had gotten an old tire inner tube from the local tire shop, cut a 2” band out of the middle, and wrapped it around the cords. He then put in hooks and had everything organized with a handy carrying loop.

I took this idea and have used it in RVs, for video production, and here is a photo of the electrical compartment we just organized for a friend with a Thor this summer. Everything is up off the floor and more room for “STUFF!”

Fresh Water Systems

Intellitec Digital Water Purity Tester

Campgrounds are required to have their water tested and certified once a year however, bacteria, arsenic, and other contaminants can be present between the tests. I found this device that can do a very quick test for impurities. It measures in parts per million (PPM) which means it does not identify what impurities rather there is something in the water that affects continuity between the probes and the higher the PPM, the more impurities. Today I can only find this on Amazon.

Filtermate Test Kit

Even if the water supply passes the average test, does not mean it is the best water source for your pets, children, or your rig’s water supply. Most campground water sources will be hard water which means there is calcium, lime, and rust that could clog up pipes, filters, and faucets. There are several test kits that will determine the hardness of the water, PH, and other chemicals that might be an issue at the campground. I find these mostly at home improvement stores. These kits can help determine if you need a water filter, and what kind.

Water Pressure Tester

Most campgrounds will have a well-type water system with a pump rather than a regulated municipal type. That means you could get low pressure or even worse, high pressure that your water lines and connections can not handle. Most RVs today have ½” plastic lines such as PEX with either a crimped-on ring at the connections or a compression-type fitting. Most can handle at least 40 psi or some up to 60 psi which is the water pressure coming into the rig. It’s important to test the water pressure before hooking up and to know what your rig can handle! My folks went to visit my brother and hooked up the city water hose to the outside faucet at his house and later that afternoon had a soaked floor. The connections could not handle the pressure and water just slowly seeped out.

Screw this onto the water supply at the campground or house to test the pressure. Or you can use the next tool!

Water Pressure Regulator/Filter

This is not actually a tool but rather an accessory but I include it as the type I like to use is not so common. Most RVers like to use an inline filter such as Camco or Shurflo which you sell all over the campground. I like to use a residential style on such as this Omni version that you often see under the sink in homes. This type of filter has a replaceable cartridge insert that can also be customized for the type of filtering you need. I can replace the cartridge for over half the cost of the all-in-one inline filter.

Notice the 40 psi reducer attached to the faucet as this old-style farm handle would give me 80 psi! Plus this is one of the few accordion-type hoses that is drinking water safe!

Winterizing Hose

I like to use compressed air to blow all the water out of the system rather than put in gallons and gallons of pink RV antifreeze. Usually, I do this by myself and there has not been a good method to connect the air hose of my compressor to the screw-in air valve to the city water fill. So I built my own using the male end of an old water hose that connects to the city water fill and added an air chuck with a worm clamp. This way I can connect this to the city water fill, turn the compressor down to 40 psi, connect the hose with the quick connect, and open all the faucets and other devices by myself.

Liquid Propane (LP)

LP Leak Detector

By RVIA code, all RVs come with an LP Leak Detector installed which has a sensor that will provide an audible beep if it detects LP in the air. This is usually located under a kitchen cabinet or other lower cabinet location as LP is heavier than air and will settle.

There are several areas that could have a slight LP leak that would not be detected by this unit such as at the DOT cylinders on trailers or ASME tank on a motorhome. All LP appliances have an LP hose and connection which could also leak and might not be detected by the device in locations like the back of the refrigerator, outside grill, outside kitchen, and the furnace. That is why I like to periodically check the connections with my own portable LP Leak Detector which I found on Amazon for $20.

This is a much more accurate and pinpoint device that allows you to test lines and connections that the floor-mounted device might not detect.

Gas Stop

Gas Stop is a device that will instantly and automatically shut off the LP delivery system in the event of a major leak such as a ruptured line or other failures. Even though all RV LP fuel supply containers have a spring-loaded excess flow valve, there is still a slight chance of malfunction of the valve and it can get stuck in bypass and appliances will not work. This device will also show you the level of LP in the container and can sense a very slight leak in the system.

Stay tuned, next month we will show a refrigerator vent blowout tool as well as a “comb” to straighten the evaporator coils. And then one of my favorites, the “Magnetizer”!

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Swain W. ~ “Service was excellent and follow-up was fantastic. It means a lot to be taken care of when you are down. Very happy with everyone’s performance I would not have known what to do or who to call if I had not had Coach-Net. You all were excellent.” 

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) – Is My DEF Expired?

07 Wednesday Sep 2022

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Before we start, here’s a quick review of Deisel Exhaust Fluid. DEF is designed to treat exhaust coming through the exhaust chamber to meet emissions that were implemented in 2010. Basically, the government issued mandates for lower emissions from diesel engines. DEF uses a mixture of Urea (32.5%) and water (67.5%) sprayed on the exhaust fumes which reduces the NOx to nitrogen and water in order to meet the recommended levels. Since my last article on DEF for Coach-Net was published we have been getting numerous questions regarding DEF and its shelf life, how we know if it’s contaminated, and how to get rid of it.

Is There A Shelf Life For DEF?

I talked with a representative from Blue Sky that stated their DEF has a general one-year shelf life. They went on to state that the Urea will degrade if exposed to direct sunlight or stored in temperatures above 90 degrees. The actual amount of degradation can not be determined unless you purchase a DEF tester.

The representative went on to clarify that if the DEF is stored between temperatures of 10 degrees to 90 degrees it has a one-year shelf life BUT if it is kept out of sunlight and under 75 degrees, it can be used for up to two years, however, it’s best not to use it if it’s over 3 years old.

I have run a company for the past 10 years that had 3 diesel trucks pulling trailers that put over 100,000 miles on each vehicle every year, therefore we have had lots of experience and education regarding DEF. In face, we received a service notice from Ford Motor Company on DEF Shelf Life vs Temperature which listed the following:

Constant Ambient Storage Temperature / Shelf Life In Months

  • ≤ 50 °F degrees – 36 months
  • < 77 °F degrees – 18 months
  • ≤ 86 °F degrees – 12 months
  • ≤ 95 °F degrees – 6 months
  • < 104 °F degrees – 2 months

Interpreting DEF Codes

How do you know when your DEF was produced in order to determine its shelf life? Off-the-shelf products such as the 2.5-gallon versions have a code on the box that includes a date stamp. However, these codes can be difficult to decipher.

I talked with Peak Technical Product Support and he said there are many different codes used on their product due to the bottling and packaging at different plants all over the country. He dissected this one for me as follows:

23/169 /CP7/ 00591/ 0125

  • 23 is a year minus 1 year=2022
  • 169 is how many days are left in the year 2022=July 15, 2022
  • Cp7 is the bottling plant
  • 00591 is tank number
  • 0125 is the batch number

He also stated that they have a two-year shelf life recommendation however it was best to purchase a digital refractometer to be sure what you are putting in your tank has not expired. If you have any doubts as to the date code recommend, call their tech support number and a technician will help dissect the code for you. He also stated that both Walmart and Home Depot are the largest distributors and would have the newest product.

DEF Life At The Pump

Ok, but what about the DEF that is pumped at a larger fueling station from an underground tank and does not have anything printed? The easiest way to tell if the DEF has expired or been contaminated is by looking at it. When DEF is in good shape, it should look clear and free of any contaminants or discoloration. If it is cloudy, discolored, or difficult to see through, it is likely expired.

I spoke with a technician at Cummins and they stated that The NOx sensors monitor the DEF quality and will provide an indication when DEF is not in compliance which is the check engine light.

So what happens if you do have a full tank of DEF and the dreaded “Check Engine” light shows? There are service centers that will drain the tank for you however it can be expensive. Alternatively, you can do it yourself with a mechanical pump or even a hand pump depending on how much you have in the tank. If you have a truck the DEF tank will only be about 3-4 gallons which can be pumped out with a hand pump and put in an empty DEF container or gallon jugs.

According to Daimler Worldwide and specifically the Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation (FCCC):

DEF life will vary based on temp and direct sunlight, so having the tank in a compartment like it is on RVs is much better than on a vehicle where the tank is exposed to direct sunlight. FCCC has not seen a large number of people having an issue with DEF quality, but I would recommend always leaving some room in the tank so that if you do get an indicator you can still put some fresh DEF in the tank and help revive the DEF quality. In some cases service centers have had to force air into the tank with a hose and then have a second hose to allow it to drain, but that’s certainly not the norm.

What Do You Do If You Have Expired DEF In Your Tank?

So if the shelf life is one year, what should we do about units that have DEF sitting in the tank for longer than that? I’ve talked with several owners who stored their rig during the pandemic and their DEF could be 2-3 years old! As FCCC indicated, try to leave the tank less than ½ full as you can strengthen or rejuvenate degraded DEF with the addition of new DEF!

Being from the Midwest, I contacted the local farm equipment dealer as well as PetroBlend, one of the largest distributors of DEF in the agricultural industry. They stated the very same thing that proper DEF management is the key, as sometimes combines will not go through their 30-gallon tank for a couple of years.

Where Can You Properly Dispose Of Bad DEF?

The internet is flooded with DEF information with some stating it is the same chemical composition as fertilizer so you can dump it just about anywhere. While DEF is non toxic, it should be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way. Do not pour bad DEF down the drain or dump it on the side of the road. It’s recommended to contact your local environmental waste disposal company for a nearby disposal site. I also called the local landfill as they have a hazardous materials division and they will take it at no cost as it is considered residential and falls under fertilizer or engine fluids. Anything over 10 gallons is considered commercial and assessed per gallon.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Sean S. ~ “If you’re on the fence about this, jump on over. Coach-Net paid for itself for us with a freak accident within the first 24 hours of signing up. You never know when something could go wrong and you’ll be wishing you had gotten this coverage.”