It’s About Time To Wake Up That Hibernating RV!

05 Thursday Mar 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

Tags

Beginning RV, de-winterizing, de-winterizing rv, Protect Your RV, RV Maintenance, RV winter maintenance

Spring officially starts March 19, 2020, so that means it’s not that far away…hopefully! It also means it time to start thinking about bringing your rig out of hibernation and getting it ready for summer RV fun. Hopefully, you checked out our blogs on winterizing so you do not have any surprises waiting for you?

Exterior Inspection

Start with a detailed walk-around inspection of the rig to see if there is any damage due to high winds, tree limbs, rodents, or even vandalism. If there is damage, you will want to take pictures and call your insurance company before going any further.

The unit pictured above looked to be in good shape with a customized cover, however, after removing the cover, we found squirrels found a way into the roof air conditioner unit and chewed all the Styrofoam insulation around the blower motor! Notice all the trees around the unit…this winter we added squirrel repellant inside, outside, and on top!

Check The Roof Material And Sealants

RV manufacturers use several different sealants for joints throughout the RV such as the roof to the sidewall, front cap to roof material, windows and so much more. As temperatures change, materials in your RV expand and contract and so do those sealants. Leaving your rig exposed to the elements makes the sealants dry up and become brittle and crack as the materials expand and contract, moisture can penetrate into the roof, sidewalls, and other areas and create expensive damage. It is critical that you inspect these areas to ensure they are in good condition.

Inspection should include every vent, skylight, TV antenna or other items on the roof that has sealant around the edge. If you see signs of cracking sealant, or water stains inside the rig, you will need to remove the old sealant and apply new.

Slide Room Inspection

Slide rooms require very little maintenance, however, if there is debris such as sticks or acorns on the top of the slide and they are retracted, the rubber seal will be compromised and moisture penetration could occur. When bringing your rig out in the spring, run the slide rooms out and inspect the roof material, rubber seals, look for any leaks. Make sure all rubber seals are installed properly and making contact. This is also a good time to condition the rubber gaskets with an approved treatment such as these ProtectAll products

Batteries

Deep cycle house batteries need to be properly stored with either a charge from a multi-stage charger during storage, or have the batteries removed and properly charged in a garage or shed. In the spring, it’s time to check lead-acid batteries for proper fluid level and either reinstall them or clean all the posts and connections and apply a protective spray. Make sure all battery cables and wires are in good condition and not chewed or compromised by rodents.

Freshwater Tanks

Since the water used in your freshwater tanks typically would be hard water from a campground source, it is a good idea to sanitize the system using ¼ cup bleach in a gallon of water for every 15 gallons of freshwater capacity. Fill the tank and run all faucets for approximately 10 minutes. If you do not like the smell of bleach, Thetford makes a freshwater tank sanitizer as well.

LP System

Typically RV owners do not remove the LP tanks or cylinders during storage, however, it’s a good time to check all connections for leaks. Make sure you open the valve slowly to allow LP to flow at a reasonable rate and not activate the excess flow valve. After opening the valve, test your LP leak detector to make sure it is operating properly. You can use a liquid test solution to test all connections at the appliance, or HomeFlex makes an electronic tester that is available at most home improvement stores.

Tires, Bearings, Axle

When bringing your rig out from hibernation there are several checkpoints for tires, bearings, and axles. First, check the sidewall for cracking known as weather checking. Any crack over 1/8” inch should be replaced. Visually inspect the sidewall for bumps or bulges, tread for uneven wear or chunks of missing tread, and rim to tire connection or “bead” for signs of rust or other issues that might create a loss of tire pressure. Check the pressure with a certified pressure gauge. If you have a spare, make sure it’s in good condition with the correct pressure.

Most trailer manufacturers recommend repacking the wheel bearing once a year and this is a good time to have this procedure done before hitting the hot days of summer on the road. If you are experiencing an uneven wear pattern of your tires, it’s also a good time to have a qualified trailer technician check the alignment of your axles.

Interior

Spring is a good time to remove and clean your air conditioner return air filter and tighten the spring-loaded bolts. You will also want to change the battery in the CO tester and smoke alarms.

And finally, check all appliance manufactures recommendations such as fluid levels in hydraulic system for leveling jacks and slide rooms, chassis recommendations for fluids,

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles, authored an RV handbook reference guide and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Douglas M. ~ “The concern displayed by the call agent was awesome. The response was fast by the service provider and he was terrific. Thanks so very much for this fantastic coverage!”

RV Tire Care

05 Thursday Mar 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Carefree RVing, RV, RV Maintenance, RV Tire Maintenance, RV tire safety, RV Tires, RV travel

RV Tire Care

What Goes Around Comes Around With RV Tires!

“Tires are the most vulnerable component on an RV and the most neglected!” This was a quote from John Anderson, founder of The RV Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) almost 30 years ago and still rings true today. It’s one of the biggest topics in almost every RV forum and campground fireside discussion. “Nitrogen”, “Gotta go to a Load Range E”, “Put on Coopers”, we’ve heard them all. John started weighing RVs after numerous blowouts on his personal rig and started with “A Weigh We Go” which turned into RVSEF and after weighing over 50,000 rigs in a 20-year span, found a large percentage of RV tires are either overloaded, or underinflated. With this experience, they have developed an educational effort that has greatly reduced the number of tire failures in the industry as well as extending tire life which every RVer should know.

Tire Pressure

Proper Inflation

Most RV owners read the information stamped on the sidewall of the tire to get the recommended tire pressure or PSI. The number stamped on the tire is maximum pressure at maximum weight, not the correct tire pressure for your rig! The only way to get proper inflation is to have your rig weighed by individual wheel position and consult the tire manufactures tire chart.

RV Tow

It is best to have the weight taken by the individual wheel position which can be accomplished by RVSEF and their weight teams at Rallies and other functions. According to RVSEF, it is not uncommon for some floorplans to be 1000 pounds heavier on one side of the rig due to appliances, slide rooms, and personal belongings. It is important to find the heaviest weight on an individual tire to compare that to the chart. You can find the RVSEF locations and tire charts at www.rvsafety.com

Check Tire Pressure

Once you have the proper inflation it’s important to check that inflation every time you hit the road. Most RVers occasionally check the pressure and do a quick visual inspection for the rest of the time. You can not see the difference between a properly inflated tire and one that has 10 psi less at a glance and that 10 psi reduces your carrying capacity by 25%! Check the pressure every time you hit the road, and we recommend a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) such as the one we tested from TST Systems. We have over 100,000 miles on a test trailer that is still giving accurate readings! This system not only gives the pressure but the temperature as well.

Track System Technology

Nitrogen (N2)

There is considerable debate about the advantage of using pure nitrogen in tires vs the standard air from a compressor. The advantages stated by the “pro-nitrogen” side is there is less air loss through the sidewall of the tire due to the size of the N2 molecules vs the atmosphere air provided by air compressors. The other advantage is the air from most compressors supplied-air has a higher moisture content due to the condensation created from the compressors which can cause rust on the metal components and cause “rot”.

Most tire and rim manufacturers state these claims are overstated as the standard air supplied in the past 50+ years is 78 percent nitrogen and 21 percent oxygen with the remaining 1 percent a mixture of water vapor, carbon dioxide, and other gases. Yes, some air compressors that are not periodically drained or “purged” of condensation will have moisture in the air, however, it is not a sufficient amount to cause damage to the rim or valve. The only advantage to N2 in tires that I have found has been the temperature on high volume trailers. We have tested trailers for the past 3 years and the N2 tire filled trailers average 10 degrees lower temperatures?

Foreign Tires

The internet is full of blogs and articles about the quality of foreign tire failures. I contacted Trey Selman of the RV Safety and Education Foundation which has been working with tire manufactures, RV manufacturers, dealers, and consumers for over 30 years and is what I believe is the utmost authority when it comes to RV tires and here was his response:
“While many tires can be used on trailers the primary type of tire is a Special Trailer (ST) tire. These tires have been used for many years and until very recently they have ALL been foreign-made and are all relatively inexpensive. So, this is not really a new phenomenon. To the best of our knowledge, there is only one ST tire brand/model that is manufactured in the US. And this one has only been available for the past couple of years. This companies previous model was also produced overseas before the current new model that is about 2 years old.

But just because a tire is made overseas does not necessarily make it bad. There will always be various qualities of tires but what is more often the problem with RVs is the lack of understanding about overloading the tires, the stresses of RV use on tires, and trying to make the tires last longer than they should because of these differences.”

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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Tackle Those RV Moisture Maintenance Chores

06 Thursday Feb 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Beginning RV, RV, RV Maintenance, RV toilet leaks, RV water damage, RV water leaks

Most people will agree that RV maintenance isn’t the most fun way to spend your weekend. When life keeps you busy elsewhere, RV chores are easy to avoid. But since common sense dictates that bad things happen when you delay this important part of RV ownership, last Sunday my husband and I tackled two of our twice-yearly RV moisture maintenance chores: bathtub caulking and rubber roof cleaning and conditioning.

RV Moisture Maintenance Duties Keep Water Out

The best thing you can do for your home on wheels is to take the proper measures to keep water out of cracks and crevices. Doing it from the top down is the best place to start. Look up and ask yourself: when was the last time you got up on that roof and cleaned it? Whether you have a stick house, an RV or both, the roof is one of the easiest things to forget about. Until it isn’t, when the rain starts falling inside your kitchen or ruining your mattress.

The bathroom is another common area for water damage to occur. What other part of your RV is constantly subjected to water? Take a close look at the growing gaps between the wall and the shower pan or tub where you bathe. If you see cracks, it’s time to re-caulk.

Quick and Dirty RV Bathtub Caulk Job Tips

Re-caulking the bathtub is one RV maintenance job that anyone can do, but it’s a real pain. Unfortunately, there’s no other chore that will give your bathtub the best cleaning it’s had in months. My husband cringes whenever it’s time to re-caulk our RV bathtub because removing old caulk and laying a new sealant takes time and effort. Through the years he’s tried all sorts of ways to make RV bathtub caulking easier, and here’s what he’s learned.

Get the right tools for the job. A couple of tubes of 100% white silicone bath sealant, caulk removal tools, rubbing alcohol and paper towels are all you need.
Give the bathtub or shower pan and walls a thorough cleaning to ensure the new caulk will stick. Then chip away at the old caulk with the removal tool.
Use small tubes of silicone. They’re easier to handle than an unwieldy caulking gun.
Although store-bought caulk removal tools come with an applicator tip, you may find it easier to just run a moist finger along the seam to smooth and straighten it out.
Clean up excess caulk and smears immediately by using a dry paper towel. Rubbing alcohol will remove dried caulk from your fingers.
Allow it to dry overnight. Then enjoy your new bathtub!

Common Sense RV Rubber Roof Maintenance Tips

It’s hard to believe that a layer of rubber (well, ethylene propylene diene terpolymer or just EDPM to be exact) is about the only thing keeping water out of our home on wheels. But it does and we’ve learned that when you treat it with respect, the thin EDPM membrane will keep water out for as long as you own your trailer. Last weekend was my opportunity to show it some love, so while Jim was below me in the bathroom taking care of the caulking job, I was up top doing double duty: getting a tan and conditioning the roof. Here’s what I’ve learned about this job:

Do this when you wash your RV–or at least start with a clean RV. We washed ours just a few weeks earlier at a truck wash but didn’t have time for a thorough roof cleaning. Starting with a clean RV made roof maintenance easy and relatively fast.
Wear good shoes with plenty of traction to keep from falling off.
Inspect the seams and other caulked areas for separation. Note which ones need re-caulking.
Clean and wash every exposed area. Use care around wires and plastic items that could easily break.

Even though I had to hand-clean the roof with rags because we don’t have storage space for an RV cleaning brush, it only took me about an hour and a half to thoroughly clean a small section at a time. Using a simple Roof Cleaner and Conditioner product by Camco, I hand-washed and rinsed every exposed area. In the process, I discovered a potential mildew issue in development. I also accidentally broke a cable tie that will need fixing before we roam again. Unfortunately, the moment I crossed roof maintenance off our Honey Do List, I added these other two issues that need attention for the next sunny day.

Hauling a home on wheels around the country is the best kind of freedom there is, but it comes at a cost. Even the best RVs aren’t as durable as stick houses, and you’ll need to pay close attention to annual RV maintenance chores if you want your rig to last as long as your adventures do.

About the author: Rene Agredano

Rene Agredano, a Coach-Net member since 2015, is a self-employed full-time RVer who enjoys writing, jewelry design and animal advocacy. Her adventures with a three-legged dog and husband Jim are chronicled at LiveWorkDream.com

David B. ~ ” I have just renewed my membership and it reminded me that I was way past due thanking Coach-Net for your excellent service. We are first time owners and our Airstream Interstate came with a Coach-Net membership. It was one of the best parts of our purchase. We had an incident on our first cross country trip and your staff saved our trip. They were professional, courteous and helpful in every way. They kept me calm, assured us of the help we needed, and provided it. Thank you!”

Leveling Jack Maintenance

06 Thursday Feb 2020

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Leveling Blocks, Leveling Your RV, RV leveling, RV tech tips, Tech Tips

There are several types of leveling/stabilizing systems available for RVs starting with very inexpensive, manual scissor jacks all the way up to the cream of the crop automatic hydraulic levelers. These jacks level the rig which is important for comfort while sleeping but also to ensure the refrigerator is level and the solution of hydrogen, water, ammonia, and sodium chromate in the cooling unit can make its way back to the boiler vessel. Both Norcold and Dometic require the cooling unit to be level 6 degrees side to side and 3 degrees front to back otherwise it will pool in a corner and start to heat up and eventually block the flow. A bubble level can be used to ensure the unit is in an acceptable level position.

Manual Jack Maintenance

The jacks are also used to stabilize a rig which keeps it from rocking back and forth while walking through the unit. The constant banging of mini blinds can be very annoying!

Maintenance on jacks is minor, especially the manual jacks as there are no motors, electronics, or hydraulic fluid to check. These jacks simply require an occasional inspection and lubrication of the pivot points.

Most manufacturers recommend using a silicone spray, however, Fluid Film is one of the best lubricants and rust inhibitors available. Look for twisted or binding arms, stripped threads, and loose bolts at the connection.

Electric Jack Maintenance

Another model of leveling and stabilizing jack is the electric such as the Lippert Components Inc (LCI) shown here. The only maintenance required on the mechanical components is inspection and cleaning if the legs and pivot points get dirty or rusted. They do not recommend any lubrication as this may cause additional damage due to dust and dirt collecting on the lubricant! For electrical maintenance, they require a fully charged house battery, visual inspection of the motor and wiring to ensure nothing is hanging below the rig subject to getting caught while driving, and inspection and cleaning of any connections. This can be done with emery cloth and electrical contact cleaner available at most parts stores.

Hydraulic jacks do require a little more maintenance and inspection as they have electrical connections, hydraulic motor and lines, and mechanical components. HWH has been used for many years on larger rigs with manual lever operation and automatic. They recommend cleaning the leveler cylinder with soap and water and then spray with WD 40 and wiping off the excess. This is not recommended by any other hydraulic jack manufacturer! They also recommend checking the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir periodically and adding Dexron III ATF if needed. The fluid should be red and changed if it is murky, milky white, or pink.

All electrical connections should be inspected and cleaned if necessary, and loose wires secured. All hydraulic hoses should be inspected periodically for leaks, wear, and tear, as well as all swagged fittings. The manifold of the motor should also be inspected for leaks. Also, inspect the springs for proper fit and to ensure they are still connected.

Other hydraulic leveling systems such as Kwikee and the LCI Ground Control have a similar maintenance recommendation. Check the system twice a year for leaks, fluid level with the jacks retracted, and all electrical connections checked and cleaned if necessary. If the cylinder is corroded or dirty, clean with soap and water and lubricate with silicone lubrication and wipe off any excess. DO NOT USE WD 40! Also, check all mounting bolts to make sure they are secure as well as any damage to the cylinder or mounting hardware!

If the jacks are extended in an extreme unlevel situation, the weight of the rig can apply undue pressure on the jacks and mounting brackets and cause damage. Visually inspect all components and contact a certified service center if you encounter such damage!

When using the jacks in extremely cold temperatures, the hydraulic system may run slow. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the fluid with a synthetic brand or winter weight. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations for your rig.

Additional Tips

It may be necessary to use an assist such as a block of wood or after-market jack block to prevent the jack from being extended to far. This also helps to stabilize the rig better as the cylinder is now supported more by the jack housing.

When storing the vehicle, most manufacturers indicate it is ok to leave the jacks extended during the storage period. However, since they will be exposed to the elements, it is recommended to clean and lubricate them when bringing the rig out of storage. As mentioned earlier, check with your owner’s manual for the proper lubricant.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

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RV Furnace Maintenance

11 Wednesday Dec 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

RV Furnace, RV Furnace Voltage, RV winter maintenance, winter camping, winter rving, Winter Travel

Just because cold weather is right around the corner, or has already frozen the corner in your neck of the woods, doesn’t mean you’re done camping for the year! More RVers are using their rigs for winter activities such as skiing, ice skating, and even ice fishing trips rather than trying to find a hotel miles away from the activities. If you plan to do any cold weather camping, it’s important to make sure your RV furnace is operating properly and some tips to make it run more efficiently.

Let’s first cover how the liquid propane (LP) furnace operates;

The thermostat is set to the desired temperature, once the inside temperature drops below that setting, the thermostat calls for heat from the furnace. Most thermostats have a variance that can be as much as 4 degrees below the setting. Your RV thermostat is powered by the 12-volt house battery system, therefore you can not replace it with a residential model such as the NEST or other devices as they operate on 24-volt power. Older models were designed with a bi-metal interior coil that would shrink and expand with temperature changes and we all remember the old “mercury in a tube” type models! These should be changed with a newer RV specific model. Also, make sure you match your heating and cooling system to the proper thermostat as some control both the heater and air conditioner, others have a heat pump, and some models have several zones with temperature sensors in individual rooms.

Once the thermostat calls for heat, the control module starts the blower motor inside the furnace which blows out any older air that may be trapped inside the burner assembly which could contain trace amounts of LP. This is exhausted outside through the vent tube. The blower motor also draws cold air from inside the RV and routes it back over the burner tubes and through the interior vents. This forced air pushed up a “sail switch” located behind the burner tubes and once the switch reaches the desired height, creates a closed circuit that tells the module board there is sufficient airflow and to open the gas valve and light the burner assembly. One common problem with RV heaters is low house batteries that will not provide enough airflow to raise the switch! If your batteries are below 11-volts, the blower fan will run, but the unit will not light. This can also be deceiving when the furnace does light and runs for some time and then just the blower runs. This typically means the house batteries started off with enough voltage, but then drained fast due to sulfation.

Also, if you have a few heat vents closed, a rug over the floor vents, or a pinched or kinked supply hose in the rig, it will restrict the airflow and the sail switch will not rise, therefore the gas valve will not open and the spark igniter will not light the flame.

Once the sail switch has verified sufficient airflow and created the closed circuit, the circuit board will open the gas valve which you should hear a distinctive click, followed by the spark ignitor clicking and lighting the LP mixture in the burner assembly. Then the heat exchanger will heat to approximately 200 and the air wheel pushes fresh air over the heat exchanger to provide warm air to the inside of the rig.

(Sail Switch)

The air going through the heat exchanger is exhausted to the outside of the RV through an exhaust vent. Some models have two vents on the outside of the rig, with the upper vent designed for fresh air, and the lower for heated air coming out of the heat exchanger.

Tips to make your heater run more efficiently

As mentioned before, do not cover vents with carpeting, rugs, or close off to many vents inside the rig. Not only does it limit airflow at the sail switch, it will also build up excess heat in the heat chamber and trigger the high limit switch.

(High Limit Switch)

Verify your exterior exhaust and intake vents are unobstructed and your house batteries are in good working order. Lead-acid batteries will become sulfated and lose storage capacity if not properly charged and maintained. Verify your LP pressure is sufficient which should be at 11” of water column and should be checked by a certified technician. Make sure your LP regulator is not exposed to the elements and does not get snow and ice buried around it.

Troubleshooting Tips:

No Operation

If the furnace does not light, verify there is 12-volts going to the thermostat and then at the control board on the furnace.

Check to see if the blower motor is working but the valve is not opening and trying to spark. If the blower motor is not working, check to make sure there is no obstruction such as a mouse nest. This requires removal of the shroud or often time the entire unit to access. Removal will also allow you to test the sail switch and high-temperature switch which can be done with an ohm resistance test.

Blower runs, no heat

Test for 12-volt at the control module, listen for the gas valve to open with a click, listen for spark attempt. If the gas valve does not open, it could be a faulty control board. If it attempts to spark, it could be a cracked ceramic insulator on the lighter probe causing the spark to follow the crack to ground known as carbon tracking which means the spark does not get to the burner. It could also mean a dirty or contaminated spark ignitor or improper gap. And finally, it could mean low LP pressure due to a weak or faulty regulator.

Furnace runs for a short time, shuts off too soon.

This is typically due to weak house batteries that are sulfated and do not hold a charge very long as mentioned earlier. Once the furnace shuts off, immediately check voltage at the control board, anything below 11-volts will create this situation. Even if the rig is plugged into shoreline power, the converter or battery charger will not engage until the batteries hit 10.5-volts so there may be a power gap between what the furnace needs to light and the converter senses for charging.

It can also mean the high limit switch is getting too hot due to obstruction in the vents or is getting weak.

Give your furnace a helping hand!
It’s important to understand your furnace systems’ capacity and sometimes provide a little help with supplemental heat and additional insulation. A catalytic heater is a safe supplement in the bedroom at night or living area in the daytime.

Check out the articles in our archive on Tips for winter camping and learn about skirting the underside of your rig, insulating the windows, and finding leaks that would allow warm air to escape.

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Deborah B. ~ “We believe that our money on having Coach-Net is WELL spent. Great service!”

Winterizing Tips For All Types of Rvers

30 Wednesday Oct 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

New RVer, RV tech tip, RV winter maintenance, Tech Tips, technology, winter camping, Winterizing

At a previous RVIA California Show in Fontana CA, I had to explain to my seminar attendees what winter actually was! It was 100+ degrees in California and most of them stared at me like a dog staring at a ceiling fan when we discussed cold weather camping. Being from the Midwest (Iowa) we only have two seasons, winter and road construction so we have become very good at winterizing our rigs. So even though most of the attendees were not going to store their rigs in sub-freezing temperatures, they might go to the mountains where temperatures could reach below freezing over 6 months out of the year.

So weather (pun intended) you are storing your rig for the winter in areas subject to freezing temperatures or might venture to such areas, it’s good to know the basics of how to protect your rig from damage due to a longer storage period and freezing temperatures.

Develop a checklist

It’s important to identify what appliances, water systems, dump tanks, and other accessories your rig has and customize a list to make sure everything is verified. Your rig may have a refrigerator ice maker, toilet shower, chassis battery, or other items that need attention before storing the unit.

Water System

This is the first step in winterizing, you need to make sure water in your freshwater tank, water lines, water pump, and dump tanks are either protected with RV antifreeze or removed completely as frozen water expands and will split water lines and rupture water heater tanks. This causes tremendous damage when the temperatures rise and the water soaks into the carpet, floor, and other parts of the rig.

RV Anti-Freeze

Non-toxic, “pink” RV anti-freeze can be used to replace all the water in your rig. It will not harm any of the plastic components and has no residual taste or toxic effects on your freshwater system.

Start by draining your freshwater, greywater, and blackwater tanks completely.
Next, you will need to drain the water heater by removing the drain plug from the outside at the water heater vent panel.

The water heater typically holds 6-10 gallons of water and most manufacturers have installed a water heater bypass valve to reduce the amount of RV anti-freeze needed for the system.

3. The next step is to introduce the RV anti-freeze into the water system.

If you have a winterizing kit/valve, it’s as easy as putting the winterizing hose into a jug of RV antifreeze and letting the onboard water pump fill the lines.
Turn on the water pump, then open the faucet or showerhead the farthest away from the pump until the pink antifreeze comes through.
If you do not have a winterizing valve, you will need to fill the freshwater tank up with 5-6 gallons of the antifreeze and run it through the pump in the same manner.
Continue with all the faucets in the rig, toilet, toilet sprayer, shower, and exterior shower if applicable.

Remove Water With Compressed Air

Some RVers opt to remove all the water in the system rather than use the pink RV antifreeze.

Once again, drain all the water out of the fresh water tank, black, and grey holding tanks, and water heater.

A special air fitting can be purchased and threaded into the city water fill, or you can make a DIY tool pictured here and attach it to the city water fill.

2. Attach the air compressor and make sure you turn the pressure (psi) down to 40 psi and turn it on.

3. Then go to the farthest faucet and open it up until all the water is pushed out and only air comes out.

4. Do this to all faucets, showerheads, toilets, toilet sprayers, and outside shower.

5. Keep in mind you may have low-point drain valves that will speed the process, check your owner’s manual.

Refrigerator Ice Maker

If you have an ice maker in the refrigerator, both Norcold and Dometic recommend draining the water out.

First, close the water supply line to the ice maker and push the ice maker arm to the off position.
Remove the water supply line at the solenoid, usually located in the outside lower vent compartment.
Drain all the water from the water supply line and the ice maker lines.
Place both ends into a plastic bag and tape it shut.
For more specific information on your type of refrigerator, consult your refrigerator owner’s manual.

LP System

Shut off the LP at the DOT cylinder valve or ASME tank on your rig rather than individual appliances.

House Batteries

The deep cycle batteries in your rig will naturally lose a charge during storage even if everything is shut off. It’s important to keep them charged or maintained so they do not sulfate or even freeze. If you do not have access to electricity, remove the house batteries and bring them into a garage or other storage facility and connect them to a battery conditioner. Another option would be to install a solar panel just large enough for conditioning such as the Zamp 20 amp maintainer.

As the battery drains, sulfur attacks the plates and coats them reducing storage capacity. A multistage charger or conditioner breaks up the sulfation and extends the life of the battery. If you do have access to electricity, keep the unit plugged in or install a conditioning charger. Just using a conventional converter in a distribution center will not condition the batteries. You will need a multi-stage charger or a larger inverter with this function.

Before storing your rig, remove all food from the refrigerator and cabinets inside and out. As stated earlier, develop a customized list for your rig which could include taking precautions for rodents, skirting underneath the rig, or using a cover.

About the author: Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

For the last 25 years, Dave has conducted RV maintenance and safety seminars, developed dealer and owner training programs, written RV safety and handyman articles authored an RV handbook reference guide, and logged over 100,000 miles on the road in an RV.

RV Repair Club is your go-to online resource for enthusiasts who want quality RV maintenance, repair, and upgrade information – a community where passionate RVers can come together to gather knowledge and share their experiences.

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Kirk M. ~ “Extremely professional, answered all my questions, and had me connected to a mobile repair service within the hour. It was the first time we have had to call Coach-Net and were extremely impressed!”

Why Solar Power Should Be Your Next RV Investment

27 Friday Sep 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

boondocking, Fall RV Travel, RV Solar Panels, RV Solar Power, RV travel, RVing

Renewable energy fever is engulfing the United States, and this is extending to people who like to live their life on the road, too. Batteries are coming down in price, as is equipment, while also improving in strength, with The Verge reporting that a super-powered battery charger that provides 16 amps – household current levels. For RV and tech enthusiasts, turning to solar power should become a question of when, rather than if. The benefits are not hypothetical, but are available to be gained today.

The range question

For RV owners, it’s understandable why solar power can be treated with a little trepidation. Endurance is a key part of the RV experience, and range anxiety – the fear that the vehicle will give up the ghost far short of a safe stop – features prominently among all US vehicle owners, according to the Washington Post. However, advancements in solar technology mean that this should no longer be a worry. Most of note are the RV charging bays that are currently being positioned throughout the country, and particularly in hot counties like California. These will allow you to charge electric batteries on the fly.

Effectiveness of solar

RV owners value their independence, and solar panels can help to achieve. However, it hasn’t always been this way, as noted by green energy advocates Energy Sage. Previously, solar panels were only useful for those engaging in boondocking. However, as solar panels have now reduced in price and weight considerably, it means that your appliances can be charged effectively and efficiently by simply getting out on the road. It’s financially feasible to get a solar panel RV setup going and keep charge during the day at a background level; this will be financially sound regardless of whether you look for off the beaten track or not.

The reform of batteries

Key in the changes making solar effective for RVs is the innovation and expansion of solar energy batteries. Japanese innovators have now produced new consumer-level batteries that will promise to reform the system entirely and make transporting electric energy far easier. Furthermore, big business, including Samsung, have outlined how the next generation of solar battery will be able to store and safeguard greater levels of juice than any other system before. For RV drivers, this has two major benefits. Firstly, moving into colder areas where there are fewer opportunities for solar-based energy will be less impactful. Secondly, you will have a greater range and quite simply be more durable on the road, and all for less cost.

When taking all of the factors into account, setting up a solar rig for your RV is becoming a no brainer. The energy is free, there are no longer constraints on your range or the power of charging available, and you’ll be doing a favor to the natural beauty that RV owners so often are able to take in. For the next improvement to your on-the-road rig, consider getting into renewable energy.

Author: Ali Walker

Steven W. ~ “I’ve recently had to use Coach-Net twice, both times it was timely and efficient and the customer service people checked back to make sure things went smoothly. It was a great experience!”

What You Need In Your RV Toolbox

06 Tuesday Aug 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Information, Tech Tips

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

CareFree, RV, RV tech tip, RV Tips, rv toolbox, RV Toolkits, rv tools, Tech Tips

Most RV enthusiasts start with a basic assortment of tools such as screwdrivers, pliers, and sockets. The more you travel, and the more comfortable you get with doing some of your own maintenance and repairs, the more you “customize” your toolbox for your rig and level of experience. Just as there are hundreds of different types of RVs, there are a wide assortment of tools that can be used to do the job so there is not one “standard” list of tools that will be right for every RVer. However, here is a list that is a good reference to get you started on your journey to the “Ultimate Toolbox”.

Basics

Screwdrivers – Philips/flat head (three different sizes but definitely #2 phillips head)
Pliers – Large and small
Channel Lock Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Side Cutter
Tin Snips
Wire Stripper/cutter
Socket Sets – ¼” – 3/8” – Some ½” for larger projects like lug nuts – SAE & Metric ( I also carry a set of deep well sockets – 3/8”)
Multi-bit set with Torx, #2 Philips, and others
Assorted Drill Bits
Wrench Set – Open End/Box End – SAE & Metric
Cordless Screw Gun/Charger
Electric Screw Gun (Just In Case!)
Blow Hammer
Regular Hammer
Crescent Wrench – 2 sizes
Razor Knife
Vise Grips
Tire Gauge
Bubble Level
Plumbers Tape
Gloves
LED Flashlight
Shop Towels
Hand Cleaner/Sanitizer

Electrical

Duct Tape
Black Electrical Tape
Rescue Tape
12-volt Test Light
Digital Multimeter
Non Contact Voltage Tester
Battery Terminal Cleaner/Sealant
Assorted Wire Terminals/Wire Nuts
Wire – 10 ga/12 ga
Assorted Bulbs
Assorted Fuse
Extra 120-volt Outlet/GFCI
Battery Filler/Distilled Water
Zip Ties
Certified Tire Gauge
GFCI Outlet Tester
Voltage Tester – Surge Guard
AmWatt – Amperage Guage
10 Gauge Extension Cord (Note: used for tools only)

Emergency

Roadside Emergency Kit – Flares, Triangles, etc
Jumper Cables
Portable 12-volt Booster/Air Compressor
First Aid Kit
Fire Extinguishers
Fuel Can – empty
Floor Jack – Note: make sure it is rated for your weight and you consult your owner’s manual for proper placement and lifting the rig. Most RVers purchase roadside assistance and let someone else wrestle with the wheel!

Fluids/Sealants

Oil
Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Fluid (slide room motor and jacks)
Brake Fluid
Antifreeze
Windshield Washer Fluid
CRC Silicone Spray
Self-Leveling Lap Seal designed for roof material
Fluid Film

Customized Items

Conduct a thorough walk through inside and out to see what “specialized” fasteners and other items your rig may have such as torx head screws, allen head, or even pop rivets? This is something that will be a work in progress as you come across items that are unique and it will prompt you to wonder; “why did they use that?!”

Wind Speed Indicator – AC/Heater Air Flow
Level Check – LP Level Tester
Magnet Source – Magnetizer/Demagnetizer
Puck Wrench
Milk Crate – great for carrying tools as well as a stool!
PEX Water Line & Fittings – Hose Cutter
Winegard Satellite Finder
Intellitec Water Purity Tester
Infrared Temperature Gauge
BullsEye Rock Chip Repair Kit
Crow Bar

Miscellaneous

Barkeepers Friend
ProtectAll Surface Cleaner
Bleach
Dawn Dish Soap

Tool Box

There are a variety of tool boxes and containers, I personally use a variety of items starting with the soft bag with pouches around the side and a handle in the middle. This has a basic assortment of often used tools. For smaller electrical items I have a Stanley “Sortmaster” organizer. All other tools are stored in a Craftsman tool bag.

As you become familiar with the various maintenance items such as the plug for the water heater, you will start to add tools. Atwood uses a 1 1/16” plug while Suburban uses a 7/8” one. You will probably add items like nut drivers, putty knives, heat gun, clamps, worm clamps and other items. As stated before, no two toolboxes are alike…have fun in designing your own!

To ensure you have easy access to this handy checklist, feel free to download, print, and share with your RVing friends.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Carl S.~ “The service was well- handled, on time, great service and great follow-ups. Also, everyone I spoke to was very kind! “

Replacing a Leaky RV Faucet

06 Thursday Jun 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in Tech Tips, Tips & Tricks

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

RV, RV bathroom, RV bathroom hacks, RV Camping, RV water leaks

It’s human nature to overthink some of life’s simple problems, like RV repairs. Don’t let the idea of RV home improvement projects scare you. Sometimes repairing broken RV equipment is much easier than you think, such as learning how to replace a leaky RV faucet.

One of the Easiest RV Repairs You’ll Ever Make

As full-time RVers my husband and I spend more time than most in our fifth wheel. Home repairs that were easy to set aside when we lived in a sticks-and-bricks house aren’t as easy to ignore for our home on wheels. Leaks and squeaks are constantly in our face and delayed repairs can lead to bigger, more expensive problems. So when our bathroom faucet started leaking, we took immediate action.

If you’ve never had to make this RV repair, you’ll discover that it’s easy to replace a leaky RV faucet. You probably won’t need tools to do it and what’s even better is that most RV bathroom faucets can be swapped out with a higher quality residential faucet. Our local hardware store carried a stylish brushed copper model constructed with brass fittings. It perfectly matched our other fixtures, so we went to work.

How to Replace a Leaky RV Faucet

Step 1: Turn off our water supply at the source. Go inside and lay a towel inside the bathroom cabinet.

Step 2: Unscrew the hot and cold connectors for the existing faucet. The connectors should only be hand tight. If you need a wrench or channel lock pliers to loosen them, use care so that you don’t crack the fittings. Once loose, slide the connector back along the Pex tubing.

Step 3: Remove the plastic retaining nuts from the threaded faucet water supply pipes that hold the fixture in place. Then lift the faucet up and away.

Step 4. Check the mounting area for water damage. Hopefully there won’t be any. Next, clean the area then insert the new faucet into the holes.

Step 5. Secure faucet in place by finger-tightening the retaining nuts. Insert the hot and cold water supply lines to their corresponding sides, and slide the Pex connectors up then finger-tighten them onto the fixture to seat the supply lines. For extra protection against water leaks, wrap Teflon Pipe Thread Seal Tape around the threads of both brass fixture fittings before tightening the Pex retainer nuts. You’ll find this step easier if you apply the tape before mounting faucet into place. You may also want to add a thin layer of Plumber’s Putty Tape under the faucet fixture to prevent splashed water from seeping underneath.

Step 6: Double-check all connections, then turn on the exterior water supply line and inspect for leaks.

One of the trade-offs of the full-time RVing lifestyle is accepting that things come loose and wear out sooner in traveling homes on wheels. Thankfully, many RV home repairs are often much easier and less expensive than they may seem. RVing is a simple, cost-effective lifestyle that we wouldn’t trade for anything.

About the author: Rene Agredano

Patricia T. ~ “Although we have had Coach-Net for a long time, this was our first call for assistance. The person we talked to was extremely helpful, polite and, best of all, helped us resolve our problem. Thank you!”

RV Brake Maintenance

08 Wednesday May 2019

Posted by Coach-Net in RV Safety, Tech Tips

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

RV, RV brakes, RV Tire Essentials, RV tire safety, RV Tires

What type of maintenance is required for RV brakes? This is not a tough question to answer, rather a lengthy one as there are several different types of RVs and therefore, several different brakes that need to be covered so it warrants a forum like this to be able to answer it properly.

Types of Brakes

Motorhomes will typically have hydraulic brakes used on the smaller units and air assist brakes for the larger diesel pushers.

Hydraulic Systems

A hydraulic brake system uses hydraulic or brake fluid pushed by a master cylinder when the brake pedal is applied that goes to the brake pads at the wheels and applies the pressure to either a brake drum in older units or the disc/rotor. This is a closed system, however, it can still absorb moisture through humidity and condensation that can contaminate the fluid. Brake fluid can withstand very high temperatures, however, if contaminated the moisture will boil at a much cooler temperature and vaporize causing poor brake performance. Therefore it’s important to not only check your brake fluid levels at every oil change interval or as recommended by your chassis manufacturer, but also change the brake fluid approximately every three to five years! Again, check with your chassis manufacturer for specific recommendations.

Brake pads, rotors, and drums on older units should be inspected periodically by a trained professional looking for the proper thickness of the pads, even wear pattern, and grooves or excessive wear on the metal components of the rotors and drums. You will notice a slight brown or rust colored “dust” forming on the rims which is normal as the pads are applied to the rotors or drums and wears off. Excess dust forming is a good sign to have the brakes inspected sooner than the chassis manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule. A “safe” thickness of the brake pad will vary with the type and weight of the rig as larger vehicles will require more pad than your car or truck. Most states have a DOT requirement of 3/16” from the center of the pad, however check with your chassis manufacturer and a certified technician for your safe thickness recommendation.

Air Assist Brakes

Larger motorhomes with air assist braking systems use air to apply the brake pads so there is no master cylinder and no fluid to check or replace. However, condensation and moisture can still form in the system and cause a weak braking condition. These systems have an air reservoir tank to store the compressed air and a filter to help collect moisture and oil. It is recommended to drain the reservoir tank regularly, typically every six months as water and oil will collect near the drain valves. Some have an automatic drain valve feature, check with your chassis manufacturer for specific draining instructions. The filter in the cartridge should also be checked periodically and changed every two-three years as a clogged filter can reduce airflow and weak braking. Pads and rotors should also be inspected periodically by a trained professional looking for safe pad thickness, even wear, and excessive wear on the rotors.

Fifth Wheel And Travel Trailers

Fifth wheel and travel trailers have electric brakes that are operated by a controller located inside the tow vehicle. This can be an add on system mounted under the dash or an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) system designed into the dash of the tow vehicle.

With electric brakes, there is no brake fluid to check and flush, however, there are several areas that need maintenance and even adjustments.

As with any braking system, the pads and drums should be inspected periodically for wear and grooves. Verify the brake pads are wearing evenly and have the “safe” thickness to stop your rig. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the pads if they are less than 1/16” thick, however, for larger rigs, it’s a good idea to replace them a little sooner than that! Also, inspect for cracks/chunks of pad missing as well as any moisture that would prevent the pad from gripping the rotor. If you do need to replace pads, it’s a good idea to replace all at the same time so there is a consistent thickness all around.

When the brake pedal is applied on your tow vehicle, a signal is sent from the brake controller to a magnet on the bottom of the brake assembly which activates the brakes. This brake controller can be set from 0-10 depending on the amount or pressure required to slow the trailer down. It should not be set high enough to stop the truck when braking as this would cause a breaking loose condition when braking in adverse weather conditions. Most experienced service technicians will use a gravel portion of their lot to set up the brakes, starting with the controller at about 4-5 and moving at a slow speed to manually apply the brake controller. Adjust the pressure to the point the trailer skids on the loose gravel but does not pull the tow vehicle much. Your brake controller owner’s manual should also provide information on proper setup.

With the wheel off and the hub removed, inspect the pads as mentioned above and also check the electromagnet. Make sure it can move in and out of the cradle but is not loose or disconnected. There are also wear indicators on the magnet that will show when it is time to replace it. You can also check the magnet for proper amperage and resistance with a multi-meter. Consult your brake manufacturer’s service manual for specific information.

With the wear of the brake pads, you will need to occasionally adjust the brakes with the star adjuster which is accessible through the slot on the back side of the hub. This will provide the proper gap between the brake pad and the drum without needing to set the brake controller to a higher setting. It is also a good idea to use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the brakes and hub while driving. Once a day check the hub, brake drum, and tire to see what temperatures you have. If the outside ambient temperature is 70 degrees, it’s not uncommon to register temperatures up into the high 80’s or even 90 degrees F. However if the temperature spikes high, it’s a good indicator that the brakes are being overworked and need to be addressed.

About the author:

Dave Solberg: Managing Editor, RV Repair Club

Learn more about RV Repair Club.

Jim G. ~ “The young lady who assisted us was very kind, she listened to our needs and passed along the specific RV information to the service provider. The service provider used was local to us and very good. The service was efficiently, safely and expertly given.”

Exterior Inspection

Check The Roof Material And Sealants

Slide Room Inspection

Batteries

Freshwater Tanks

LP System

Tires, Bearings, Axle

Interior

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What Goes Around Comes Around With RV Tires!

Proper Inflation

Check Tire Pressure

Nitrogen (N2)

Foreign Tires

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RV Moisture Maintenance Duties Keep Water Out

Quick and Dirty RV Bathtub Caulk Job Tips

Common Sense RV Rubber Roof Maintenance Tips

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Manual Jack Maintenance

Electric Jack Maintenance

Additional Tips

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Let’s first cover how the liquid propane (LP) furnace operates;

Tips to make your heater run more efficiently

Troubleshooting Tips:

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Develop a checklist

Water System

RV Anti-Freeze

Remove Water With Compressed Air

Refrigerator Ice Maker

LP System

House Batteries

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The range question

Effectiveness of solar

The reform of batteries

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Basics

Electrical

Emergency

Fluids/Sealants

Customized Items

Tool Box

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One of the Easiest RV Repairs You’ll Ever Make

How to Replace a Leaky RV Faucet

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Types of Brakes

Hydraulic Systems

Air Assist Brakes

Fifth Wheel And Travel Trailers

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